How to check the crankshaft damper pulley of a VAZ 2114

Signs of malfunction and replacement of the crankshaft position sensor on a VAZ 2114

First, let's look at what a crankshaft position sensor is. The crankshaft position sensor of the VAZ 2114, like many other VAZ models, is an electromagnetic device that transmits information about the position of the crankshaft to the electronic “brains” of engine control. This sensor is very important; the correct operation of the fuel injectors and the ignition system depends on it. It doesn't break down often. But if you are going on a long trip, it is advisable to have a spare one.

Crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2114

Sensor types

Sensors differ in operating principle and design features.

1. inductive type. Inside there is a metal rod with a magnet at the outer end. It is designed to magnetize the rod. A winding of copper wire is wound around this rod, the ends of which are brought out in the form of connectors for connecting wires. The operating principle of the inductive type crankshaft position sensor: when a steel object is located next to the rod, a signal appears at the terminals.
2. The operating principle of the next type of crankshaft sensor is slightly different. It has a hall sensor inside. When a metal object is brought close to it, its state changes (from logical zero to one and vice versa).
3. frequency Let's look at how this type of crankshaft sensor works. The engine control unit generates pulses of a certain frequency. They are fed to the sensor and when a metal object is brought to the sensor, the generation frequency changes. By changing the frequency, the controller determines the presence of an object near the sensor. The sensor reacts to the metal of the crankshaft ring teeth (on some cars it is located on the flywheel).

Preparatory work

Before removing the crankshaft pulley, you need to prepare the necessary tool and perform preliminary procedures. In your work you will need the following tools:

• overlay key 19;
• pipe section;
• special pulley puller or pry bar.

Place a support under the front wheels, remove the connector from the ignition coil and set the gear shift lever to neutral. Unscrew the tension bolt of the generator by 3-3.5 cm, loosen the fastening bolts to allow it to move freely and remove the belt. After this, you can remove the crankshaft pulley 2110.

Symptoms of a problem

Signs of a malfunction of the DPKV can be different. Often, dirt adheres to the end of the sensor itself, which can interfere with reading. Also, symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor may be as follows:

• The idle mode is unstable;
• Engine speed rises or falls spontaneously;
• Power drops;
• During acceleration, a “failure” is felt;
• The car doesn't start well.

In these cases, for the most part, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft position sensor is replaced.

In addition, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor may well be in good working order. And on the “tidy” the DPKV error will appear (0335 or 0336). The reason for this may be a broken wire near the connector. This is easily determined visually; then it is enough to replace the connector without replacing the sensor itself.

If the owner notices signs of a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor on his car, then this is a “signal” about the need for diagnostics.

It is not difficult to guess where the crankshaft sensor is located on a VAZ 2114. Like many other VAZ models, it is attached to the engine, and more specifically to the oil pump, near the generator drive pulley, on its cover. The sensor is attached with one bolt, which is typical for many models of this family.

Here is the crankshaft sensor on the VAZ 2114

Typical causes of failure:

• Physical damage to the case;
• The interturn closure of the winding turns entails a change in the generation frequency transmitted to the control unit (frequency type sensors);
• Emergency wear or loss of pulley teeth.

Folk tricks

Let's look at a few folk car tricks that have helped more than one driver.

1. Each threaded connection, by the way, not only on the part of the car, can be unscrewed by first lubricating it with a special oil, for example: HP, sunflower oil, vinegar, brake fluid.
2. In rare cases, lightly tapping the edges of the bolt and nut with a hammer or wrench helps.
3. Removing a bolt or nut does not mean removing the pulley. How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without a special key? The pulley sits very firmly on the shaft; it can be removed using a pry bar or a screwdriver and carefully pry it off in several places.

Functionality check

If you decide to check the serviceability of the sensor yourself, treat this procedure responsibly and carry it out correctly. On a VAZ 2114 car, the crankshaft sensor is checked in several ways.

• Using a multimeter. The serviceability of the induction sensor can be assessed by the resistance of its coil. In a working product it is 500-700 Ohms.
• On the multimeter, set the measurement limit to 200 millivolts, connect the probes to the terminals (where the standard wires are connected). Pass a steel object several times in front of the core. The working sensor will “see” the metal and there will be voltage spikes on the multimeter display. If there are none, replace the part.
• But the most accurate results when checking are provided by an oscilloscope. When using this device, one hundred percent results can be guaranteed; it reads all the information from the sensor while the engine is running. It can be observed on the device screen. The engine, during tests, should operate at different speeds. They start with eight hundred revolutions, then two thousand, and raise it to six thousand. If the lines (on the device screen) are of different lengths, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction. Remove dirt, check the pulley for defects, and so on.

Remove from the engine

The malfunction has been identified. Let's start eliminating it. Let's look at this operation using the VAZ 2114 as an example.

Turn off the car ignition. We open the hood, fix it firmly, and visually determine where the VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor is located. Before removal, it is advisable to remove all contaminants in the area where it is located. Next, carefully remove the block with wires from the connector.

Connector DPKV VAZ 2114

Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fastening bolt.

Removing the crankshaft sensor on a VAZ 2114

Removing the DPKV VAZ 2114

After dismantling the sensor, it is advisable to check the generator drive toothed pulley for defects. Since its damage can introduce errors into the operation of the entire system.

After we are convinced that there are no defects of any kind, we proceed to assembly. The seat must be clean. We install the new part in place and fasten it with a bolt (the tightening torque should not exceed 8-12 Newton meters). In this case we use adjusting washers. They are sold complete with a new sensor. Thus, using a special probe, we ensure that the gap between the pulley and the sensor core is one millimeter. The permissible error is 0.41 millimeters in the larger direction.

The gap between the pulley and the crankshaft sensor core on a VAZ 2114

Removing the damper

On a VAZ 2110, the damper is removed in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect the ground from the battery;
2. Remove the radiator fan and fluid coupling;
3. After loosening the bolts securing the fan pulley, remove the belt;
4. It is advisable to remove the radiator, but if it does not interfere, you can leave it, protecting it from damage from the engine compartment with a sheet of plywood or cardboard;
5. Remove the pulley from the radiator fan;
6. We gain access to the damper, unscrew the bolts, dismantle it;
7. When removing the hub, you need to secure it from turning (for which there is a special tool).

Next we proceed depending on the purpose of the analysis. If you only need to replace the damper, we do it and assemble everything in the reverse order.

You should know that replacing the liners on a VAZ 2110 can be done either with or without removing the crankshaft. But this requires a special device, and besides, it is better to entrust such work to an experienced mechanic - a mechanic.

If the crankshaft was dismantled to replace the liners or half rings, then we continue:

8. Remove the lightweight or regular crankshaft; 9. We remove the half rings; 10. We evaluate the condition of the liners, and if they do not need replacement yet, then be sure to remove them and mark each of them; 11. But, unfortunately, no matter how carefully the owner treats his VAZ 2110, sooner or later the time for physical wear comes for the liners - they need replacement.

• Four repair kits of inserts are produced for the VAZ 2110. You need to buy them only as a set, and only in a strict sequence of sizes. Sometimes, however, situations are possible when you have to purchase them “through size”;
• thus, the crankshaft only lasts for four (and sometimes even three) overhauls;
• replacement of liners cannot occur without grinding the crankshaft. The only exception is if it is replaced with a new one. At the same time, an experienced craftsman can turn the crankshaft into a lightweight one.

But if replacing the crankshaft pulley is not such a difficult task, and almost any home craftsman can do it, then grinding and tuning the crankshaft should be entrusted only to experienced motorists.

When reassembling, please note that the groove on the hub must be aligned with the segment key. In addition, the bolt holding the hub requires a torque wrench. Its tightening torque should be 400 N/m.

We connect the block with wires into place.

After installation and checking the gap, we try to start the engine. With a confident start and stable operation of the engine, we can say that the repair was carried out successfully.

Despite the fact that the breakdown of the synchronizing sensor is not frequent, knowledge of its symptoms and consequences, as well as methods of elimination, will be useful to the car enthusiast.

New sensors are available in almost any auto parts store. The price of DPKV can vary between 200-400 rubles. How much a VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor costs depends on your region, the location of large spare parts stores nearby (usually cheaper there) and the greed of the seller. Can be ordered in the online store. When purchasing, take the old one with you so as not to make a mistake in choosing a model. To avoid defects and repeated purchases, it is advisable to purchase from well-established sellers.

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Comments 25

Hello everyone, the pulley has finally arrived, I ordered a used one. I loosened the generator belt, but it turned out that it was not necessary to loosen the pump and power supply pump belts. I installed the pulley and everything went away, now it doesn’t move, it spins smoothly. When examining the old pulley, it was discovered that the rubber gasket had worn out. The breakdown is solved! Thanks everyone for the advice.

The problem is most likely in the crankshaft gear (the key is licking, the gear is not clamped well, and the pulley is screwed to the gear). Unscrew the gear and look at the gear key and the crankshaft. My first motor had something similar (it licked a key). I bought a new gear and welded on a few mm of keys, since the socket for the key was broken on the crankshaft. I put it back together and everything is ok. Good luck!

The pulley needs to be replaced, the damper can be left. The vibration is apparently due to the fact that the pulley begins to turn little by little, the key is licked off, and the bump from the licked key lifts the pulley - as a result, vibration. Change the pulley before it's too late. When you pick it up, LOOK carefully at the key, I once came across one with a crack under the key (it was cast). It would be nice to order a bolt and use thread adhesive when installing it. Good luck.

You can just sharpen it)

My advice is to remove the belts and shake the pulley, the problem may be that the bolt that screws the timing gear to the crankshaft has come loose and the key has been cut off; this happened to me on my ACE, regarding advice and advisors, the block of the 2.0 is the same for all models! so take off the belts, check the play, if you don’t understand where it comes from, unscrew the pulley yourself and check if the timing gear is loose, here is the gear number 25158, and I think the pulley itself is fine, you didn’t hit the pulley or bend it, where could the play come from? I think it's a gear issue.

Replacing the crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2114

One of the most common problems of the VAZ-2114 car is the failure of the DPKV crankshaft position sensor. The fragility and unreliability of the sensor design forces motorists to either shell out considerable sums for repairs at a car service center, or learn the basics of repairs on their own, and, in our economically unstable life, the second option is best. Next, we will teach you how to replace the DPKV with your own hands. So, let's go!

Crankshaft position sensor: principle of operation, types

DPKV is a small electronic device located near the pulley under the hood, which performs a critical function: by transmitting an impulse of the crankshaft position to the engine, the sensor coordinates the movement of the injectors, which directly affects the fuel supply, which, in turn, determines the operation of the ignition system. You need to monitor the condition of the sensor regularly, especially if you have planned a long trip.

Sensors are divided into two types, each of which has its own operating principle:

1. Inductive. It consists of a magnet and a metal rod wrapped with copper wire. The inductive sensor gives a signal by reacting to the approach of a steel object, that is, the crankshaft.
2. Impulsive. The sensor consists of a hall, which changes its position when a metal object approaches it. Due to this, impulses arise, which are then sent to the power unit and determine the operation of the ignition system.

Signs of breakdown

You can determine that the sensor has failed by the following signs:

1. Idling malfunctions, instability in engine operation is observed;
2. The engine loses power;
3. The engine accelerates chaotically or, conversely, slows down;
4. Heavy plant;
5. During high-speed movement and, especially during acceleration, dips are observed.

The main malfunctions may be the following:

1. Mechanical deformation;
2. Broken wires or shorted wires (this problem is especially common in used cars);
3. Wear of the pulley and other parts.

Repairing the sensor is difficult and almost impossible at home. But replacement is not difficult, and it is not that expensive. Let's now find out how to replace the sensor on a VAZ-2014.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the sensor

If you strictly follow the instructions, the replacement procedure usually does not take much time.

• First of all, to make further work safe, turn off the ignition and raise the hood.
• We find the device and, if it is covered with dust and dirt, which is observed quite often in the practice of motorists, be sure to use a rag to clean both the sensor and its installation location, so that when installing a new device, there is no short circuit in the wires.
• Now we have access to the device. A positive point is the ease of removing the sensor, which cannot be said about other parts. But here it is very important to observe the subordination of actions: first, by bending the fasteners, remove the block and wires, then, after unscrewing the bolt, carefully, slowly, remove the DPKV
• Just in case, it is worth diagnosing the condition of the pulley; toothed parts are often deformed, which also causes a disruption in the fuel supply system and leads to errors in the data transmitted by the sensor, which can already be dangerous.
• We check that the installation site of the new part is clean.
• We mount the sensor.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling: tighten the bolt, fasten the block, start the engine, check the sensor data.

An important point during installation is to maintain the required gap, which should not exceed 1 mm. If the gap is too large, you should select a device of the appropriate size: do not try to fix the DPKV of the wrong type, as this connivance can lead to negative consequences.

How to check for sensor malfunction with the device?

Despite the fact that a sensor malfunction is usually determined by the above symptoms, this may not be enough for a correct diagnosis, since different types of breakdowns have the same symptoms. Dips during acceleration can also occur when other parts are deformed, such as the ignition system or braking system, and this also occurs when the engine itself malfunctions.

You can definitely check the sensor using the following method:

We buy a voltmeter (it’s easy to find in any car store) or a multimeter, which is even better. On the multimeter we turn on the voltmeter function, measuring 200 mV. Now we connect the probes to the sensor. And then the most interesting thing: take any screwdriver (necessarily with a metal rod) and hold the screwdriver close to the sensor. The data on the voltmeter will change, monitor its data: if the device shows 0.3 V, then the device is working properly; If the readings fluctuate, replace the sensor without a doubt.

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Replacing the timing belt

According to the maintenance regulations, the condition of the timing belt should be checked after 105 thousand km, and the belt replaced after 200 thousand km. It is necessary to take into account that failure of the timing belt (breakage or shearing of teeth) can lead to valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch of the rotation angles of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs. Therefore, we recommend checking the condition of the belt more often - every 45 thousand km. The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and separation of fabric from rubber. The reverse side of the belt should not have wear, exposing the cord threads, or signs of burning. There should be no delamination or fraying on the end surfaces of the belt. The belt also needs to be replaced if traces of oil are found on it (before replacing the belt, the cause of its oiling should be eliminated) or when replacing a failed tensioner/support roller of the timing drive and coolant pump.

Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the five screws securing the front upper timing cover...

...and remove it. Remove the right mudguard of the engine compartment (see “Removing the mudguards of the engine compartment”).

Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the generator drive pulley... ...and inspect the belt for damage. To replace the belt...

...using a 5mm hexagon, unscrew the two screws securing the front lower timing cover...

...and remove the cover. Remove the generator drive belt (see “Replacing the generator drive belt”). Before removing the timing belt, in order not to disturb the valve timing, it is necessary to set the crankshaft and camshafts to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke of the 1st cylinder. To do this, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the generator drive pulley...

...until the marks on the camshaft toothed pulleys align with the marks on the rear timing cover. To check the position of the crankshaft...

…we remove the rubber plug in the upper part of the clutch housing (for clarity, the cooling system hose and the wire blocks from the coolant temperature gauge sensor and the ECM coolant temperature sensor are disconnected)…

...and make sure that the mark on the flywheel 1 is located opposite the slot 2 of the upper cover of the clutch housing. In order not to disturb the valve timing when unscrewing the bolt securing the generator drive pulley, an assistant fixes the flywheel by inserting a large slotted screwdriver through the hole in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth. Having unscrewed the bolt securing the generator drive pulley...

...and its support washer.

Using a spanner wrench or a 15mm socket, loosen the bolt securing the belt tension roller. At the same time, the tension roller will rotate and the belt tension will weaken.

Remove the belt from the camshaft pulleys of the tension and support rollers. After removing the belt from the coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys, remove the belt from the engine compartment.

After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned at large angles to avoid the valves sticking into the pistons. When replacing the timing belt, we also change the tensioner and support rollers of the belt. Unscrew the bolt securing the tension roller and remove the roller.