The story goes like this: we were driving, lost traction, turned off the car and never started again. Neither the starter nor the pusher... Everything died. Fuel is supplied, there is a spark. When we brought it in for service, the pressure in the pump is excellent, there is even compression in all cylinders. They played on the service for two days and this and that. We changed the roller on the distributor and also left from there on the cable. Then we completely removed the distributor ourselves, everything seems to be fine...
And then, purely by chance, I forgot to turn off the ignition and turned the distributor and a spark jumped (it turned out it was breaking through the ignition coil)…
Hello! I have a Nissan Primera P12. The problem is that it won't start when the engine is cold. Thank you in advance for your cooperation! (Gulnar)
Hello, Gulnar. The problem of the inability to start the engine when cold is relevant for many Nissan drivers. We will provide some recommendations for resolving this issue, we hope they will help you.
Nissan Primera won't start
The Nissan Primera is a reliable car, but despite this, the risk of being unable to start the engine still exists. The reasons for this problem can be very different.
Some problems can be easily fixed with your own hands, but solving some problems may require a diagnostic scanner or other special tools.
Primera P12 won't start
I would like to share my experience of starting Nissan Primera, P12, 2.0l, 2001, in cold weather. mileage 90 t.km. The frosts came very sharply, in the morning you need to go to work, but the car won’t start (-34°C), and the starter turns it like in the summer (Mobil 5W40 oil), the engine gives occasional flashes, and there is not even a hint of starting. I didn't touch the gas pedal at any time during startup. I turned the original 45Ah battery in series for quite a long time with a full charge and almost ran out. I removed an almost new 60Ah battery from my wife’s car (Mazda 121 1991) and added it to mine through wires to help. I twisted it until I lost my pulse - hell. The wife left on foot angry, because... my car was blocking Mazda's road. I was late for work, taking public transport, which on a frosty day, as usual, becomes three times less is not suitable, and showing up to work in the cold on foot means that your car is crap, despite the perfect maintenance and all diagnostics at a branded dealer car service (I haven’t gotten off the car for 15 years, but I bought this one last spring without any mileage in the Russian Federation). I decided to start it at any cost and used a barbaric, but always effective method: I took two buckets of hot water and started pouring a jug on the engine front and back. I poured one and a half buckets, trying not to pour it on the wires, belt, starter and generator, but as it turned out later, I poured it straight on the starter and injector wires (the hood practically didn’t open and I didn’t know the exact location). I tried to start it, it started quite easily, but with some extraneous knocking noises. As the engine warmed up, it began to run smoothly as before. I left happy and with ambitions for the plant. There are about two hundred cars less than usual in the factory parking lot - it somehow feels a little good. During the day I got insolent and didn’t go out to warm it up at lunch, I came to the parking lot in the evening and for no reason the car wouldn’t start (pride is a sin - I repented several times). I tried to unscrew the spark plugs to clean them, but the key with the handle on the cardan turned out to be *****, the handle fell off. I went home on public transport along with other poor souls who have the same problem. The next day, at the dealership, I bought original NGK LFR 5A 11 spark plugs for 860 rubles, a key - a square head with a rubber insert (without it, the spark plugs can only be removed with long tweezers, the insert needs to be additionally wrapped, at least with electrical tape, and inserted with great tension , otherwise it crashes in the cold) and read all the threads in the forum, how others suffer in the cold. By the way, at the dealership during all the days of cold weather there were queues of new cars, the master says that they brought almost all the sold Nissan X-Trail with a similar QR-20 engine on a tow truck, which were started in a warm place according to the same procedure - replacing the spark plugs with new ones, I really don’t know the result of further launches of these machines on other days on the street. Personally, when I replaced the spark plugs with new ones, nothing happened. I tried all the recommendations of the forum: I started with the pedal fully pressed, partially and as usual; I unscrewed the spark plugs - they were wet through and dripping; calcined; I blew through the cylinders without spark plugs. Fortunately, I brought a second 60Ah battery and fully charged the original one and started it from a total capacity of 105Ah. As a result, after several minutes of starter operation, it barely started (it was 23°C outside). I got home, filled up with Samara 95 gasoline on the way (before that I had used 92, filled up on the highway for 15 rubles), but the engine still ran unstable with the new spark plugs, and the car jerked. The next day I didn’t dare drive it, put the 60k battery back on the Mazda, started it half a turn and didn’t bother Nissan for a week, we drove the Mazda. I feel bad at heart, because... I like the Primera for the most part, but this is a fly in the ointment. For Nissan, I bought the most powerful battery that fits (580A starting current), changed the terminals to Euro ones, and replaced the antifreeze along the way, because... in cold weather it turned into a thick porridge, and the stove began to heat up 10 minutes after starting (dealers sell native antifreeze for 200 rubles per liter, only 4 included, and the other is strictly prohibited). Warm days have arrived - 14°C went to start, but again a bummer. Now I was starting it with a total capacity of 126Ah, it was probably possible to drive a kilometer as long as I turned the starter. I unscrewed and screwed it, calcined the spark plugs and blew out the cylinders, broke off all the insulation of the cables to the spark plug coils, replaced new spark plugs with old ones, put a kilowatt hair dryer in the input manifold (fortunately the machine is three meters from the door of the house), but nothing. The end was unpredictable: I took old spark plugs from Mazda and turned them on Nissan - it started with half a turn without pressing the pedal and works like a clock. There are a few questions left. Will it start at -34°C? How harmful are non-original spark plugs, which are 8mm shorter in thread, to the engine? Isn't it because of the length that it started up? Is the electrode hidden from the direct spray of the nozzle? Maybe because the electrode of older spark plugs is sharper (the field strength is higher, the electrode warms up faster), and I made the gap slightly smaller? Is there an analogue of spark plugs 90919-01164 K16R-U11 with a long thread like NGK LFR 5A 11? Does heat rating affect starting performance? As far as I know, it affects the temperature of the insulator and the rate of carbon removal, but in an already heated form. Please let me know if anyone checks my version in the north of our homeland. And I’ll let you know how the car will start if we get cold weather again.
Not only do you have problems starting P12, they say that they are generally difficult to start after -25, I want to make a button to turn off the fuel pump, because it also floods the spark plugs, by the way, burning the spark plugs at 4,000 rpm for 3-4 minutes before also helped me So how to turn it off, after that it starts better, now we have -33, so I don’t go near it at all, at -40 I set the autostart for 3.5 hours, it still froze)) I had to set it for 2 hours
Bluebird QG18DE at -39 started from autostart once every 3 hours…. otherwise I was freezing too!
Instead of the standard NGK LFR 5A 11, you need to install NGK LFR 5FIXA 11, this is iridium. They start better, BUT starting this engine in -30 frost is unlikely to be possible in any scenario, except for forced heating.
Guys, here on the forum there was a tattoo about the fact that the mass fuel flow sensor is faulty, they say it freezes and the processor over-enriches the mixture, as a result, the plugs are flooded. But if you pull it out and warm it up, it will start.. Look for it.. If you find it, post the link.
Oblomov.Bratsk.Primera98.
Greetings everyone, today is -27 degrees, I barely started it. The car made short flashes for a very long time, but did not start. It practically did not react to the gas pedal (maybe because the damper drive on it is electric). It started up, it seemed to me, simply because it warmed up a little from the flashes. Before that, I filled it with 92 gasoline and liquid to clean the combustion chamber from carbon deposits, and also drove it in SPORT mode (about 3000 rpm). Some conclusions can be drawn: short candles improve launching; 92 gasoline is better than 95. I want to try Denso “Iridium Power” spark plugs, but I can’t find them. On Sunday it will be -31 degrees, I’ll check the launch and let you know.
Hello again everyone. This morning -28 degrees (at night it was 30... -31 degrees), it started on the first try. The algorithm was as follows: I pressed the gas pedal all the way, turned on the ignition and held it until it started. At the same time, at first she began to make flashes, then she began to work weakly with the help of the starter, and then I began to slowly reduce the gas until she picked it up completely, and only then did I release the ignition. The whole process took about 10 -15 seconds.
I'll have to try it)) did you first depress the pedal and then turn on the ignition?
Message from RP_Tomsk
I'll have to try it)) did you first depress the pedal and then turn on the ignition?Namely, gas first, and then ignition. Please note that I drive in SPORT mode, it maintains higher engine speeds (it is impossible to save fuel in winter). In the last 500 meters before turning off the engine, driving in “L” mode, it reaches the revs to 4000 at a speed of 40 -50 km/h. I think that the candles are somewhat freed from carbon deposits. And the fact that I recently filled in the exhaust tract cleaning may also have an effect.
In cold weather, I simply keep it at 4000 rpm for 2-3 minutes, the lambda leans the mixture and at rpm the spark plugs are cleaned a little, and then I suddenly turn the gas to the floor and turn off the gas so that the cylinders are cleared of the mixture a little, and the sound is still so interesting it sounds like a turbine on an airplane stops) )
-29 degrees. For three days in a row I started it the first time and on the first try, as I understand, the Primera does not have a second attempt, if it doesn’t start, unscrew the spark plugs and sushi with a bandage and a long screwdriver. To start, you need to keep the starter on for a few seconds after it seems to start. My previous recommendation “keep the gas pedal pressed when starting” is useless, because... the damper still does not open until you release the starter key (I found this out at the dealership). If anyone tests this technique at lower temperatures, please let me know.
I wouldn’t recommend drying it with a bandage, it’s better to pump it out with a syringe and hose, but I tried your method, but it was quite warm, 15 degrees, and I also agree about a second attempt in the cold
Message from Valerydvv
My previous recommendation “keep the gas pedal pressed when starting” is useless, because... the damper still does not open until you release the starter key (I found this out at the dealership).but the trick is not whether the damper opens or not, but that the injectors do not supply gasoline, this is the so-called cylinder purging mode, although for some reason it seems to me that the injectors are still pouring, I decided for myself that next winter it will be heated I’m installing the Tyumen one, and maybe I’ll also have time to install it in this one, and the garage seems to be complete and promises to be there next year
Message from RP_Tomsk
I’ll put the Tyumen heating up, and maybe I’ll have time to put it in this one tooWhat is Tyumen heating? is this something similar to webasto?
Nissan X-Trail 2002 QR-20 4WD
It's more like something similar to a boiler))
understandably, this is what the owners of domestic cars use, a boiler from an outlet... Tell me how to deal with the enriched mixture, there is always black soot on the candles, not oily, just velvety black! I recently went to AutoSan where they changed the spark plugs, cleaned the intake tracks and the air flow sensor, taught it to idle, but to no avail, I unscrew the spark plugs and there’s still black carbon deposits...!
Nissan X-Trail 2002 QR-20 4WD
check the compression - maybe the rings are stuck. But in general it smokes due to the lack of temperature of 95 degrees.
yes, it’s unlikely, and I also have a black spark plug skirt, the electrodes themselves seem to be more or less, it’s probably Benquin here, it’s so simple, I usually fill up at Sibneft and sometimes at the ARZ ring
Re: Nissan primera P12 won't start
Posted by
SpannerWhats up all. To avoid further issues, I’ll ask here: In general, P12 with QG16DE. After replacing the battery (according to the client), the car stopped starting when cold. Rather, it catches on, and after a couple of seconds it stalls. Pressing the gas pedal doesn't help. There are zero errors, the throttle is clean and adapted, the fuel has been changed, the sensors are all fine... in general, everything seems to be fine... If you spray carb cleaner into the intake, it doesn’t stall, it revs up, etc. During the research process, the engine was brought to operating temperature... and lo and behold. The car started up on the next attempt and ran properly. The integrators are normal, everything is a bunch, you won’t get stuck
. They gave it to the client, citing bad gasoline (possibly) and old spark plugs. People drove it all day (the engine didn’t have time to cool down along the way), no problems. The next day they brought me back again. It picks it up smoothly, works for a couple of seconds, then breathes out. If you put carb cleaner into the intake, it won't stall. The pressure is normal, the injectors were cleaned, the thermometer is adequate, we tried to enrich it with a thermometer, it doesn’t help, they threw in other flow meters (used and new), it doesn’t help, the intake is sealed... The only thing is that they didn’t check the phases, but here, as I understand it, the error should have popped up at the knee, so for now We didn’t dig in this direction. And the most interesting thing is that the injection time readings through the diagnostics and the oscilloscope do not seem to match. Before diagnostics, let’s say (both basic and adjusted) 5 ms, but in fact 2.5... The only thing is that the oscil does not have time to react in sync, because after a couple of seconds it stalls without replenishing the carb cleaner. If you maintain it with carb cleaner, the injection times seem to coincide. It seems that the computer does not spray more than 2.5 in real life, although the diagnostics show that it sprays more. I'm inclined to think that the computer could not withstand the replacement of the battery. If anyone has encountered something similar, please tell me.
I think we guessed what was happening. Repeat. If some points are not clear, post here.
Why doesn't the car start when cold?
What to do in such cases:
- First of all, it is necessary to diagnose the injectors; failed elements must be replaced. If the injector does not hold, that is, the valve does not cut off the fuel properly, then while the vehicle is stationary (a day or two), the pressure in the ramp is maintained using a regulator. And a certain amount of fuel can go into the intake. That is, when you try to start the engine, an overflow immediately occurs in the intake. If you bleed the injectors, the problem can be solved. That is, the next time you are faced with the impossibility of starting the engine, try blowing out the injectors. If this helps, then those elements that are poisoning need to be changed.
- Check the fuse contacts in the block. It happens that over time the vehicle is used, the contact is broken.
- Sometimes the reason lies in a stretched timing chain. It is necessary to carry out diagnostics and compare the results obtained with those prescribed by the manufacturer.
- In some cases, the engine cannot be started due to a failed throttle sensor. It also needs to be checked and replaced if necessary.
Battery problems
If the Nissan Primera does not start, it is recommended that you first pay attention to the battery. When it is discharged, starting the power unit is impossible. This is due to the fact that when the starter motor is connected, the on-board voltage will drop below the permissible level. As a result, instead of successfully starting the engine, the car owner will hear the crackling sound of the retractor relay coming from the engine compartment of the Nissan Primera P12.
Most often, problems with a used or discharged battery occur in winter. This is due to the fact that motor oil thickens in cold weather. This makes it harder for the starter to crank the engine, so it consumes increased starting current. The battery has poorer performance in the cold season than in the summer heat. Its starting current and energy output are reduced. The superposition of these factors on top of each other leads to complications in starting the engine and even the impossibility of starting the engine.
To solve the problem with a discharged battery, it is recommended to use one of the following methods:
- start the power plant “by lighting” from another vehicle;
- recharge the battery with a nominal or increased current using a charger;
- start the power unit using ROM.
If the battery runs out once, you can solve the problem by recharging the battery. If the battery discharges constantly and quickly, then it needs to be diagnosed. Based on its results, a decision is made on the advisability of repairing or replacing the power source. Experienced car owners recommend that if the battery has a significant service life, replace it with a new one without trying to restore it.
If the diagnostics show that the battery is fully operational, but the problem with its rapid discharge still exists, you need to check the on-board network. During inspection, a short circuit or significant leakage current is usually detected. If they are identified, you should promptly begin troubleshooting. Otherwise, there is a high risk of the Nissan Primera catching fire.
The presence of mechanical damage to the battery case leads to loss of electrolyte and a decrease in the starting current output. To monitor the condition of the battery, it is important to visually inspect the battery. If through cracks and other damage are detected, it is recommended to install a new power source to replace the old one.
Starter repair and replacement
In the vast majority of cases, if problems occur with the starter, there is no need to replace this assembly. To restore its functionality, by removing and disassembling the starter, it is enough to thoroughly clean all the terminals and contacts, as well as restore dried grease. If a defect is detected, worn out and unusable parts should be replaced or corrected. The most common starter parts that fail are the brushes, solenoid relay, bendix and bushings. The cost of repairs, in this case, ranges from 500 to 3000 rubles.
The cost of a new starter assembly for a Nissan example p12 is, on average, about 7,000 rubles.
For Nissan examples, they are suitable as original starters manufactured by NISSAN:
| Manufacturer | vendor code | Average price, rub. |
| NISSAN | 233000M302 | 15,000 |
| NISSAN | 233000M30A | 28,000 |
| NISSAN | 2330065Y10 | 54,000 |
So are their non-original analogues:
| Manufacturer | vendor code | Average price, rub. |
| AMD (South Korea) | AMDAMD.EL631 | 3,500 |
| VALEO (France) | 438137 | 8,900 |
| BOSCH (Germany) | 0 986 017 661 | 16,000 |
| FENOX (Belarus) | ST21120 | 5,900 |
| DENSO (Japan) | DSN951 | 12,700 |
| HELLA (Germany) | 8EA 011 610-691 | 6,300 |
Nissan Premiere R12 won't start
Good day! Tell me, the Nissan example p12, Japanese, battery will not start. new, the instrument panel lights up, the starter turns, but that’s where it ends? PIT is still lit on the display, maybe because of it?
Message from
Alex123Good day! Tell me, the Nissan example p12, Japanese, battery will not start. new, the instrument panel lights up, the starter turns, but that’s where it ends? PIT is still lit on the display, maybe because of it?
pit has nothing to do with it... look what is missing, spark or fuel...
Message from
Alex123Good day! Tell me, the Nissan example p12, Japanese, battery will not start. new, the instrument panel lights up, the starter turns, but that’s where it ends? PIT is still lit on the display, maybe because of it?
I had a similar situation, it turned out that the knee sensor had failed
Security system and its influence on car starting
The Nissan Primera has a standard security system in the form of an immobilizer.
The car owner has the opportunity to further protect the car by installing a purchased car alarm. If it is not installed correctly or one or more components are faulty, a situation may arise when the engine does not start. Problems that arise with the security system are usually of a physical or software nature. The first involves sticking or breaking the contacts of a mechanical relay or other automation elements. Software failures manifest themselves as errors in the “brains” of the alarm system.
For diagnostic purposes, it is recommended to completely remove the installed security system. After this, carry out a test start of the engine. If it was successful, then the fault should be looked for among the car alarm units. It is important to check each module, as well as the correct connection.
A typical malfunction of the Nissan Primera, which affects engine starting, is souring of the antenna and immobilizer contacts. To fix the problem, car owners are advised to remove the chip from the module and fill everything with contact grease. If there are oxides on them, it is recommended to pre-clean them.
Fuel injection system failures
To ensure fuel injection and determine the optimal portion, the electronic engine control unit receives information from several sensors in real time. When one of them fails, problems begin. Nissan Primera has the ability to perform self-diagnosis. This requires:
- Insert the ignition key.
- Turn the key to the “On” position and hold for three seconds.
- Over the next five seconds, depress the gas pedal 5 times.
- Wait seven seconds.
- Squeeze the gas all the way. Hold your leg in this position for 10 seconds.
- Wait for the “MI” indicator to appear on the instrument panel.
- Take your foot off the gas pedal.
Look at "Check engine". It will flash. You need to count short and long flashes. They encrypt the error code. If the indicator blinks 10 times, then no problems are detected.
A simpler way is computer diagnostics. It requires a tester. It connects to the connector located under the steering wheel.
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Nissan Primera P12 won't start
Category: Car repair video
Vehicle characteristics: The dimensions of the car are as follows: length - 3467, width - 1100, height - 1228 mm. The wheelbase is 2224 mm. Ground clearance 223 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit.
The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides engine power output. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 76 mm, the piston stroke is 77 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 2000 rpm.
Maximum torque is maintained up to 2000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at the request of Alberic
Rating of a car owner named Edna: Fast, convenient. In principle, as one of the predecessors wrote, there are not many cars of this size from 8 to 100 sq.m. What a bummer I was pleasantly surprised that the washer reservoir is located next to the antifreeze reservoir. It's going to get hot! Broken off completely.
The liquid freezes at once and the engine does not warm up (at -10 the water easily tolerated it). Here already at -5 there are problems. Conclusion - do not dilute the antifreeze at all. The headlights are narrow and they get clogged with dirt quickly (((The headlight washer helps, but very, very little. It’s impossible to drive with xenon headlights with dirty headlights.
The physics there is different, so for xenon the washer is mandatory. There is no need to turn off the washer. Moreover, it works from a separate button (which is hard to find by touch, and next to it there is a button for the gas tank lid - it’s not clearly thought out). I think they will definitely write to me that for 1.6 million it was possible to select a richer package, for example, from the Koreans same.
Indeed, the display is monochrome!!! It even made me laugh at first, but then I got used to it. On ebay, a colored one costs 250 bucks, from the officials - more than 100 thousand rubles. But I didn’t want Koreans, and I couldn’t find anyone with speakers like that. It's important for me. Dynamics mean safety and pleasure, and in the city too. And I’m sure the Japanese have higher reliability. In terms of consumption.
If you drive 90-100, the consumption is 8-9. 120-130 – 10.5-11. 150-170 – 16-17. Once I was driving frankly on the highway (up to 190 when overtaking) and the computer showed 18.7. I think it's quite realistic. The tank is more than 80 liters. In the city at an average speed of 23 km/h – 17-18 liters in winter. Basically a lot of expense. Rav ate five liters less.
But I myself chose a large engine and good dynamics for a heavy car. There was a breakdown. The power steering began to hum and was about to die. It's a shame. They replaced it without any fuss at the dealer. Why does he deserve credit? They also gave me a replacement car. What else? The eyeglass case is only big in appearance - it really doesn’t fit.
And they wrote about this a hundred times - every time the climate is switched, the air conditioner is forced to turn on. You will need to disable this function at the dealer. Sometimes the front brushes float. They try to adapt the speed of glass cleaning to the speed of movement. It doesn't always turn out to be on topic.
Original name: Tidak akan bermula Nissan La P12
Release date: 02.07.2022
Duration: 1:30
Quality: HD 720
Laughter in the topic: They risk their lives, driving in the oncoming lane, risk their license, avoiding traffic jams, risk their sanity, working from 5 am to midnight, and all so that you can get to work and home on time! They are minibus drivers - the most humble superheroes of our time.
Video instructions: do not start Nissan Primera P12
Source: https://femx.ru/ne-zavoditsya-nissan-primera-p12.html
Primera won't start! :( tell me!!!
From time to time it does not want to start from the key fob pager Primera TP12 (QR20 engine) 2001. That is. It starts, then, apparently, the speed drops, and it stalls. What could it be and how is it treated? Thank you.
Well, if it doesn’t want it only from the key fob, then you need to look for the reason in the autostart system. The car turns out not to be at fault
