The instrument panel of the VAZ 2115 injector 8 valves does not light up

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When the instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 does not light up, this is one of the common malfunctions of this unit. To fix a problem, you first have to find the cause of its occurrence.

Tidying up nine

Reasons why the PP stopped working

In fact, there are not so many of them and the most common are:

The easiest one is poor contact between the panel and the electronic control unit. The problem is solved by replacing the plug or simply cleaning the contacts.
A breakdown in the instrument panel itself or malfunctions. To solve the problem, all connectors are reconnected, taking into account the correct connection diagram.
Malfunctions of the tachometer, speedometer, fuel level controller. In this case, the cause is mechanical or electrical. To troubleshoot problems, replace regulators or check the operation of fuses.
The illumination of the VAZ-1215 software stopped working. In this situation, it is necessary to find out the cause of the problem.

It is unlikely that a simultaneous failure will occur in the operation of the sensors on which the operation of the PP directly depends. If we take into account that they do not work directly with devices, but through an ECU (electronic control unit), then, accordingly, malfunctions will lead to the PP stopping working. In addition, it is worth noting that the engine will also stop working.

There are situations when all devices on the panel stop working simultaneously. In this case, the car driver must check the condition of fuse F16, which has a power of 16 A.

To check, you must turn on the hazard signal or turn signal.
If they don't work, it means the fuse has blown. Therefore, we can conclude that a short circuit has occurred. To fix the problem, check the electrical circuit. However, it also happens that the fuse is intact and in working condition, but the instrument panel on a VAZ-2115 car stops working. Here the reason is much more difficult to find out. The solution to the problem is to remove the instrument panel and check whether voltage is flowing from this fuse to the terminals of the white and red blocks. The white block supplies power to the speedometer, tachometer, and temperature gauge. And the red one is the fuel gauge.

If, as a result of checking, the terminals show a voltage of +12 V, then this indicates that the PCB does not work as a result of poor contact of the wire that goes to the ground of the car. If the +12 V voltage is not reflected at the terminals, then it is necessary to disassemble the mounting block and look for the cause of the problem.

Why is the brake light on?

But often a car has only one warning light, to which both the liquid level sensor and the handbrake sensor are “attached”.

Modern cars use circuits that additionally include brake pad wear sensors and brake light lamps. Failure of these elements causes the lamp on the dashboard to light up.

Why does the brake warning light on the dashboard come on or does not go out after starting the engine? If this happens while moving, it is better to stop moving and carry out diagnostics. If the light does not go out after starting the engine, it is better not to drive until the problem is resolved.

What to do if the VAZ-2115 instrument panel does not work

As mentioned above, it is necessary to establish the cause of the instrument panel malfunction. If they are significant and cannot be repaired, then in this case it is necessary to install a new PCB. For a better outcome when installing the panel, you need to know and follow the following instructions:

Replacement of the instrument panel is carried out strictly in accordance with the pinout.
First you need to disconnect the cable going to the cigarette lighter.
Dismantle the control panel. It is necessary to unscrew 2 screws located along the edges, top and bottom of the instrument panel.
The next step will be to dismantle the lining. The difficulty is that it is held in place by clamps, so you need to swing it a little.
After this, all wires going to the instrument panel are disconnected (light alarm connector, clock, speedometer, fuel level sensor).
The very last step is to dismantle the control panel. All the bolts that secure it are unscrewed. At this stage, you should perform actions very carefully, as you can really damage the wiring.

After all the above steps, the process of dismantling the control panel can be called complete. If there is a need to change the light bulbs, you need to remove the sockets and install new ones. When dismantling the cartridges, they are turned counterclockwise. This should be done with extreme caution to avoid damage. Collection must be done in the opposite direction.

By following all the rules for installing the instrument panel, you can independently solve all the problems associated with its operation. If this fails, you will have to seek help from a car service to correct problems with the PP.

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Conventional incandescent lamps

To remove the shield you will need a flathead and Phillips screwdriver.

What kind of lighting do you prefer?

Built-in Chandelier

Unscrew the two top screws (as shown in the picture), then carefully remove the panel under the steering column. It is held on top by clamps, and on the bottom by 3 fasteners that just need to be turned.

Under the panel we see 2 more self-tapping screws for fastening the shield; we also unscrew them. Now lower the steering wheel to the lowest position and remove the plastic cover of the shield.

Now all that remains is to unscrew the two screws holding the dashboard itself. They should be unscrewed carefully, as the screws may fall under the panel. It is better to unscrew them with a screwdriver with a magnetized tip.

We pull the panel slightly towards ourselves and see the green block and wiring harness. Disconnect it by pressing the “tab” and pulling slightly upward. After which the instrument panel will be removed.

Why does the VAZ 2114 instrument panel not work? A massive problem in our auto industry

And is it necessary to create additional troubles and the risk of accidents on the road? So the majority of those to whom this incident happened still get to work (or wherever they were going) by public transport in order to return to solving the problem in the evening on their own or with the help of a familiar mechanic.

Bulb

The principle of triggering the light elements in the cabin is simple. There are limit switches on the body pillars on all sides.

When the door is opened, this small part causes the contact to open, which gives a signal to turn on the lighting. When you open the door on 2114, only the main lamp turns on. Frequent opening of the door and constant activation of the light bulb leads to its gradual wear.

As soon as the life of the light bulb runs out, it burns out. You can check the integrity of the light bulb yourself. It is enough to lift the plastic cover of the main light source and the insides of the illuminator will be before your eyes.

The driver's light has a slightly different form of light bulb with a socket - r5w with a power of 5 Watts.

It's a little more difficult to change. It is necessary to use a screwdriver to pry off the body of the fisheye, and then remove the wire block. Next, press the latches on both sides of the case and remove the r5w base.

If after the replacement procedure the interior lighting of the VAZ 2114 does not work, check the wiring.

The most common breakdown

Before digging into the inside of the car, check how securely the ground wire leading to the front panel is secured. A restless passenger in front often simply pulls him out of his place with his feet. To prevent the situation from repeating itself, after fastening it is worth insulating the wire from reach.

Its signs are very characteristic:

All indicators do not work: speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel level recorder, coolant temperature sensor;
The rest of the equipment - optics, radio, even the panel backlight - turn on normally and do not act up;
The ignition works properly, the car does not refuse to start;
Fuse F3 is almost 100% blown. It is located in the mounting block and will have to be changed. But first you need to find out why it was covered, otherwise the new one installed will suffer the same fate. In most cases, a short circuit is to blame for burnout. On well-used VAZ-2114, the fuse often blows after each wash. Instead of carrying a spare one, you need to figure out where moisture is getting into it.

If the fuse is intact , this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life.

The next weak link : It is the ignition relay. It is located to the left of the steering column, fixed on a pin, so to speak, upside down. You need to remove it and try to make direct contact with the wires. If there are obvious signs of revival on the instrument panel, it immediately becomes clear that the time has come to change the relay.

Hard case

Until now, situations have been sorted out when the torpedo still showed some signs of life. If non-working power windows, turn signals, and windshield wipers have been added to the devices, the issue is no longer a matter of relays and fuses.

The contacts on the ignition switch are burnt. In principle, after installing the relay (even on the VAZ-2109 version), this problem rarely arises. However, the possibility remains. The lock is removed, the contacts are checked and, if necessary, cleaned;
Mounting block. There may be burnt tracks on its board. The only thing that will save you is replacing it with a new one. However, the cost is by no means astronomical, and the installation is available as a standalone option.

How to identify a malfunction

There was no indicator screwdriver, just a small flashlight and some thin copper wire. It was decided to identify a blown fuse in the mounting block by dialing. For this diagnostic method, it was necessary:

disassemble the flashlight;
cut one wire (in the flashlight circuit);
add two small pieces of wire (about the same cross-section) to the ends of the cut wire;
close the flashlight key (turn on the flashlight).

As a result, the result was a homemade device for testing individual circuits and, in particular, for testing fuses in the mounting block located under the hood on the driver's side. You, of course, understood how to use such a “device” (two wires with bare ends are taken, which are subsequently connected to the fuse contacts). The two wires brought out from the flashlight serve as “device probes”, when closed, the flashlight light comes on.

A blown fuse was subsequently found (identified) in the mounting block, this is a 7.5 A fuse F10, which is responsible for lighting:

devices,
engine compartment
and car number.

There was no spare fuse of the same type in reserve and, accordingly, the question arises: How can I replace the fuse?

Private situations

General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions.

If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. It may have a cracked gear that needs to be replaced.

Also, why doesn’t the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 work? If the fuel gauge and tachometer are capricious (either they function, or they don’t react at all), the contacts and the mounting block are normal - you need to do a small check.

Reset is pressed and held, and the ignition is turned on at the same time. Raised arrows indicate the need for further searches. Lifeless - that microcracks have appeared in the shield itself. You will have to remove it and examine all soldering and traces under a magnifying glass. In principle, these are all the main options. If calling all the listed components and parts did not lead to the revival of the instrument panel, your case is individual, and you will have to determine the situation in the company of an experienced auto mechanic.

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The instrument panel of the VAZ 2115 injector 8 valves does not light up

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The regulator turned on the drum. I'll look at the fuse, but it's doubtful that there should be a separate fuse for the backlight (the dimensions and light work). It looks like some kind of chip has fallen off, because... it happened on a small hummock.

So it most likely came off the regulator; there is no separate fuse for this. The interior light and license plate light are on the same fuse.

While driving, the lights on the instrument panel and heater controls dimmed. Dimensions, near, far - everything shines. The indicators on the instrument panel light up. Where could something have fallen off? I don't have the manual at hand, what kind of fuse or connector can I use? Thank you in advance.

The same thing happened to me recently. The problem turned out to be a double button for turning on the headlights/low beam, poor contact. Replaced under warranty - everything is ok. Try it, maybe it will help.

VAZ 2115 dashboard stopped working

The search for possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 instrument panel does not work periodically worries one or another owner of cars of this model.
It’s clear that if you don’t see a single parameter on the dashboard, you can only drive, as they say, by touch. True, there are certain specialists who still managed to somehow crawl to the base without all the evidence, but somehow I don’t want to follow their example. And is it necessary to create additional troubles and the risk of accidents on the road? So the majority of those to whom this incident happened still get to work (or wherever they were going) by public transport in order to return to solving the problem in the evening on their own or with the help of a familiar mechanic.

Why does the VAZ 2114 instrument panel not work? Offhand, we can name several reasons. However, they may not exhaust the entire list, since the individual characteristics of the car may appear. We will try to talk about this and many other equally interesting things in our article today.

The most common breakdown

Its signs are very characteristic:

All indicators do not work:
speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel level recorder, coolant temperature sensor;
The rest of the equipment - optics, radio, even the panel backlight - turn on normally and do not act up;
The ignition works properly, the car does not refuse to start;
Fuse F3 is
almost 100% . It is located in the mounting block and will have to be changed. But first you need to find out why it was covered, otherwise the new one installed will suffer the same fate. In most cases, a short circuit is to blame for burnout. On well-used VAZ-2114, the fuse often blows after each wash. Instead of carrying a spare one, you need to figure out where moisture is getting into it.

If the fuse is intact, this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life.

Fuse

There are fuses in the lighting circuit. The lamp is activated and voltage is supplied to the lighting lamp only if the fuse is working properly. In different years of model production, two different types of mounting blocks were installed on the car from the factory. Note the location of the dome light fuse on each of them. First, let's look at the location of the fuse in the mounting block of the new model. This element is also responsible for the operation of the brake light.

In the old-style mounting block, this element is located a little differently - it is the 7th in a row from left to right. The power of the element in this version of the block is 10 Amperes. In addition to interior lighting, a circuit to the brake light goes through this element. This may help when trying to diagnose a malfunctioning ceiling light.

If, after replacing a burnt-out part, the light in the interior of the VAZ 2114 does not come on, you should look for the reason in the wiring and the light bulb.

Hard case

The contacts on the ignition switch are burnt
. In principle, after installing the relay (even on the VAZ-2109 version), this problem rarely arises. However, the possibility remains. The lock is removed, the contacts are checked and, if necessary, cleaned;
Mounting block
. There may be burnt tracks on its board. The only thing that will save you is replacing it with a new one. However, the cost is by no means astronomical, and the installation is available as a standalone option.

Private situations

General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions.

If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. It may have a cracked gear that needs to be replaced.

Fuse box tracks burnt out

In a situation where the device “blinks” and periodically turns off completely, you should check the condition of the tracks in the fuse box. A short circuit, moisture and dirt getting into the block body - all this can lead to breakdowns on the tracks. The photo below shows a typical picture of a faulty fuse box in the “four”.

Because the price of a new block board exceeds 2000-3000 rubles; it is much more profitable to try to re-solder the tracks yourself. This problem is not critical, so if you have the skills to use a soldering iron, you can restore damaged tracks. For prevention, you can treat all contacts to remove oxides and dirt. It is also possible to treat contacts with dielectric grease.

If one of the lighting bulbs blinks, check the reliability of its contact. When driving on a bad road, the contacts in the device may come loose. The introduction of new lighting elements instead of standard ones is an intervention in the design. If new diode lamps are installed incorrectly, problems may occur with other components of the panel. Of the problems listed in the article, the “easiest” one is a blown fuse, while the most undesirable one is a malfunction of the board and mounting block. In any case, the availability of new and used spare parts for the “four” makes this problem insignificant.