In a Chevrolet Niva car, the gas distribution mechanism is driven by a chain. This allows you to get better performance when operating the car. In engine models with a timing belt installed, teeth may slip when it is stretched. But, despite the higher technical performance, the chain also has some disadvantages. It is subject to stretching and may burst if the engine is used frequently at high speeds. When replacing the chain, you should pay special attention to the location of the Niva Chevrolet timing marks.
Marks are special notches that can be seen on the pulley of the gas distribution system. These marks must be aligned with those on the chain.
Photos of timing marks Niva Chevrolet
Part 2. Valve + piston = repair Niva Chevrolet NIVA Chevrolet 4+4
Then you should remove the element tension mechanism.
Location of TDC marks The marks are located on the camshaft sprocket, hole a, and on the camshaft bearing housing, protrusion b.
If the valve timing is incorrect, the engine will not operate normally. How to remove it correctly can be found in articles about the hydraulic chain tensioner of a Niva Chevrolet car. If you pull it towards yourself the distance will be removed along with the chain.
If after several revolutions there are no discrepancies, the fastening bolts on both sprockets are tightened, and the lock washers are installed in their original places. The adjustment of the timing marks ends here and all engine components are reassembled. Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment: Characteristic extraneous clicks appear in the engine, which become louder as the speed of the machine increases.
The engine is unstable even at idle speed. The car's acceleration time increases significantly because the engine does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal. Acceleration occurs in jerks, during which clouds of black smoke may fly out of the exhaust pipe.
Valve wear accelerates many times over, and if the shafts are out of synchronization too much, the valves become deformed and their seats break.
Incorrect adjustment can also lead to a broken timing chain. It is recommended that when loosening the tightening, unscrew it by hand or with a deep-head wrench.
What are tags and their purpose in the Shnivy mechanism
Marks in the timing system on a Chevrolet Niva car are special types of notches and holes that are located on the gas distributor pulleys. The photo shows pulleys with marks along which the timing chain is aligned.
See:
Aligning the chain with marks is done so that it is better fixed and holds the gas distribution mechanism itself. If you install the chain without following the marks, then the operation of the pulleys will be uncoordinated and will then lead to their rapid wear. Therefore, it is important, whenever replacing a chain or parts of a gas distribution mechanism, to install them in accordance with the marks. There may be a malfunction of the timing system when the chain tension is loosened or it is stretched. In order to correctly set the timing mechanism according to special marks, we will look at the procedure for installing the gas distributor phases on the VAZ-2123.
Setting the timing of the gas distribution mechanism using special marks
So, setting the phases in the timing system according to special marks on a Chevrolet Niva car includes the following sequence of actions:
First, we make sure that we have the necessary tools: a screwdriver and wrenches 8, 13 and 10. You will also need a special tool that will need to be used to turn the crankshaft. The VAZ-2123 car is installed on the inspection hole and the wheels are secured using the handbrake. You can put shoes under the wheels. We open the hood on the Chevrolet Niva and remove the following elements: the fan is removed; unscrew the radiator mounts and move it to the side
There is no need to remove the pipes and drain the liquid; the air duct pipe is removed. Having reached the valve cover, you need to unscrew its fasteners and carefully remove it to prevent dirt and other objects from getting inside.
Timing marks VAZ(LADA) 21214 NIVA
Installing timing marks
for VAZ(LADA) 21214
NIVA
. Sorry about the quality. The camera died.
Part 2. Valve piston = repair Niva Chevrolet NIVA Chevrolet 44
Overhaul of the Chevrolet NIVA engine.
After repair work, it is recommended to replace the cover gasket.
After the cover was removed, the following view is observed, shown in the photo below.
Under the valve cover
See:
Important! When unscrewing the bolt, it is necessary to control its position, because it is not fixed by anything and can freely fall into the engine sump. It is recommended that when loosening the tightening, unscrew it by hand or with a deep-head wrench
When assembling, do not forget to replace the gasket on the cover!
The work carried out does not require much time, but is the key to the successful operation of the parts of the gas distribution mechanism of the Niva Chevrolet car
Drawing a conclusion, I would like to note the importance of setting the timing chain according to special marks. If for some reason you forgot to align the pulleys with the marks, then it is better not to start this process and make the adjustment again
This will extend the life of the timing system and all its components.
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Parts and consumables:
The chain tensioner is being dismantled. How to remove it correctly can be found in articles about the hydraulic chain tensioner of a Niva Chevrolet car.
It is possible to do without removing the chain tensioner, but for this you need to have the appropriate skills. If you decide not to remove the tensioner, then you need to press out the tensioner plunger using a screwdriver.
We proceed to removing the crankshaft sprocket along with the chain. To do this, you need to manually pull it towards you about cm.
The location of the chain on the teeth changes. The best option is to move in increments of one tooth.
The sprocket is installed on the camshaft flange along with the chain. When the location of the chain on the sprocket changes, the holes in it will accordingly not coincide with the locating pin.
To do this, rotate the crankshaft in the required direction until the hole and the notch of the pin coincide. Now take the timing chain and lubricate it as well. First install it on the crank pulley gears, then on the oil pump and on the camshaft.
The chain should be tensioned from sprocket to sprocket, while observing the position of the pulleys according to the marks.
Install the timing belt tensioning component and tighten all nuts with a wrench. Having done this, check again that the marks match.
split for Chevrolet Niva
Also tighten the screws on the gears. The scrolling step is one tooth. The sprocket with chain is placed on the camshaft flange.
Niva Chevrolet
When the chain moves on the sprocket, its holes will not line up with the pin. You should turn the crankshaft in the specified direction until the mark and pin match
It is important to secure the part with a bolt and washer without tightening it completely. After turning the crankshaft twice with a special wrench, check the placement of marks on the camshaft gear and bearings
If the marks correspond, their adjustment has been successfully completed.
The cylinder head cover has been removed. Remove the cylinder head cover, see. Rotating the crankshaft, align the marks on the camshaft sprocket and its bearing housing. If the chain is installed correctly, the mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with the long mark on the camshaft chain cover. If the marks do not match, straighten the lock washer tabs of the camshaft sprocket bolt. Engage first gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning, remove the bolt and
Preparing spare parts and tools for timing belt replacement
To adjust the marks you will need the following tools:
- screwdriver;
- wrenches for 8, 13, 10, or heads;
- device for turning the crankshaft;
- sealant;
- shoes for wheels (preferably).
The condition of the mechanism greatly depends on the driving style. The chain is much stronger than the belt, but it also does not like jerking or high speeds. Therefore, driving in a sporty style, with sharp gear changes and acceleration in extreme modes, quickly “sentences” the timing belt. And the engine, transmission, car as a whole. The condition of the chain depends on the condition of the oil, tension, and alignment of the rotating parts. Therefore, when the mileage declared by the manufacturer expires, it is necessary to change not only the chain, but the accompanying parts.
The best way to determine the need for replacement is to visually inspect the timing parts. But since access to details is difficult, we can judge by indirect signs. Such as increased noise, extraneous knocks. They can be caused by wear of the tensioner and damper, sprockets, increased play of the water pump shaft, chain stretching, and other factors. Play in the pump shaft is especially dangerous, since if it breaks down, the engine overheats and dangerous chain beating occurs.
For confident driving, along with a worn chain, it is necessary to change:
- tensioner;
- sedative;
- stars;
- crankshaft oil seal (if necessary);
- cylinder head gasket;
Replacing all of the listed parts together will allow you to confidently operate the car without worrying about the condition of the timing belt.
When to use low gear
For what purposes is a transfer case even needed, when does it make sense to engage the locking and downshift? Such seemingly simple, but at the same time serious questions will become clear when considering the following example. When driving on a country road on a hard surface, fourth gear is engaged. Suddenly, a large puddle with a soft, unreliable surface appears in front of the car. In such an obstacle the car can easily “sink”. To prevent this, you should engage a lower gear and slowly overcome such an obstacle without haste. This gear is designed specifically for driving on soft road surfaces, when even in first gear the car feels “hard”.
Low gear
It is worth noting that in order to engage a lower gear on a Niva Chevrolet, you need to stop - this is how the car’s differential is designed. But you don’t need to stop at all to turn the lock on and off. But is it worth using such additional and, without a doubt, useful functions of the machine often? Experienced drivers recommend using them in places where the dirt is not located on level ground, but with various potholes and the like.
Thus, the low gear of the Chevrolet transfer case is designed for comfortable off-road driving and overcoming various obstacles. In such a gear you need to drive slowly, you cannot accelerate sharply, because at this moment the wheels will receive a large load, as a result of which a real hole can form, from which it will be very difficult for the car to get out.
With this driving style, the motorist will better feel the movement of the wheels, as a result of which, when they “bury”, as evidenced by the chaotic movement of the car, it will be possible to immediately do something after overcoming the obstacle. Most often, this is done by changing the trajectory of the car.
It is also worth noting that when driving through sticky mud or deep puddles, you should never suddenly engage second downshift. At the same time, the torque increases, as a result of which the car can simply “choke”, stalling at the most inopportune moment.
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Source
What's next?
The car is placed in fifth gear. Use a special 38 mm wrench to remove the nut on the crankshaft pulley.
Unscrew the spark plugs and make marks on the crankshaft, as well as on the camshaft gear. Then dismantle the pulley and unscrew the fastenings of the lower frontal cover. They are located on the engine sump. Unscrew the two damper mounting bolts. The last one is removed too. The oil pump gear clamps are bent. Then the bolt is unscrewed with a 17mm head.
The oil lines are removed from the tensioner using a brake pipe wrench. Afterwards you will need to unscrew the nut of the low oil pressure sensor from the tee. To do this, you will need a 22mm wrench. This procedure is required when using the “Pilot” tensioner.
Using a spark plug wrench, the tee is removed and a pressure sensor is installed instead. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two tensioner nuts. The last one is removed from the place. The top nut is removed. It can be obtained with pliers or a tubular wrench.
The next step is to remove all three gears, as well as the chain. Use a screwdriver to remove the old crankshaft oil seal. It is necessary to thoroughly wipe the oil seal seat from dirt.
You will need a clean rag. It is also advisable to wipe the lid. After these procedures, a new oil seal is pressed in. To make it go in easily, you will need to pre-lubricate the elements with oil. An old oil seal is used as a mandrel (so that the part fits evenly into the hole).
Replacing the chain drive
- Place the car on a level surface. Open the hood. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air filter.
- The choke cable should be disconnected and moved away. It is also necessary to disconnect all electrical drives and pipes.
- Remove the fan, generator belt and pump roller. The belt should be thoroughly examined. If deep cracks or other damage is found on it, it must be replaced with a new one. Remove the tray protection and thoroughly clean its cover.
- Remove the valve plug. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket screw.
- Take a wrench and unscrew the ratchet nut.
- Now we begin to rotate the crankshaft until the marks on it and on the engine casing completely coincide. Make sure that the marks also match on the bearing housing and camshaft sprockets.
How to set engine marks on a VAZ 2121
There is a standard 21213 NIVA, the engine of which has tractor traction at the bottom and lacks traction at speeds above 3000. Replacing the chain, all the sprockets, the camshaft with the bed did not solve the problem. Rearranging the chain on a tooth back and forth, too. It was noticed that the mark on the camshaft sprocket is not installed strictly opposite the protrusion; it can be placed half a tooth forward or backward. It was decided to check the valve timing. A device for adjusting valves with an indicator is welcome, but not at all required. However, I have it. The valve clearances must be properly adjusted!
When replacing the lower sprocket, check that the marks on the small sprocket and the pulley match. They correspond to TDC.
Having placed a mark on the pulley opposite the long mark 3 (TDC on the distributor drive cover), we mark marks 1 and 2 (5 and 10 degrees) on the pulley with a light marker (I used a white oil marker). We turn the crankshaft so that the standard mark on the pulley is opposite mark 1 (10 degrees) and mark 2 more marks - 5 and 10 degrees. on the other side of the zero mark. Also, by placing the extreme marks opposite the existing protrusions, we mark 15 and 20 degrees. We mark the zero mark on the second side of the pulley (now it is on both halves of the pulley). We have a scale marked on the crankshaft pulley - 20 - 15 -10 - 5 - 0 - 5 -10 - 15 -20 degrees. This is the easy way. You can make a scale out of paper, mark it more precisely, for example, with an accuracy of 1 degree, and stick it on the pulley. This method is a little more complicated, but also more accurate. I was quite happy with the 5 degree scale.
We install the crankshaft and camshaft according to the marks, as when adjusting the valves, the slider looks at the 4th cylinder. If there is an indicator, install it on the 2nd valve (intake of the 1st cylinder). We will use them to look for the moment of opening and closing of the valve. If there is no indicator, press the rocker up, using an open-end wrench 13-17. In this position, both valves of the 1st cylinder are clamped and slightly open (overlapping). Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 10 -15 degrees. Using the applied marks, we find the moment when the intake valve begins to open by the appearance and disappearance of the gap between the rocker and the camshaft cam. We look at the pulley and the long mark on the cover, and count the degrees. For example, the mark is exactly between 10 and 15, we get 12.5 degrees. — the beginning of the opening of the intake valve. Let's remember. We move the indicator to the first valve (exhaust of the 1st cylinder) or control it by pulling the rocker up, turn the crankshaft clockwise, and find the moment when the exhaust valve closes.
For example, we got 15 degrees.
By simple calculations (in our head) we find the valve overlap point (15 + 12.5)/2 = 13.75 degrees. This point, located at TDC, is considered optimal. In our example, the overlap point moved 1.5 degrees after TDC. You can check the pie chart of the valve timing and compare the result:
On my car, the mark, with new sprockets and chain, turned out to be shifted forward by 5 (!) degrees. This is where the tractor came from. Perhaps VAZ specifically places this mark with an offset in order to increase the torque at the bottom, or maybe during assembly they use sprockets from Lada cars. In NIV, the block is slightly higher, which is why the mark shifts. Don't know. To correct the situation, a split (adjustable) sprocket was purchased and installed:
With its help, you can smoothly adjust the position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft + - 1 tooth.
If we set it so that the overlap point does not reach TDC, we get earlier opening of the intake, an increase in power at high speeds and a drop in traction at low speeds, and vice versa, the overlap point after TDC - we have tractor traction at low speeds, and stupidity at high speeds. Exact recommendations like “how many degrees should I turn?” no one will give it to you. It all depends on the condition of the engine and personal feelings. However, you should not go more than half a tooth away from the point of zero overlap. It must be remembered that at large angles the pistons may collide with the valves. I made it so that the overlap point was shifted by 2.5 degrees before TDC, I got a good pick-up after 3000 rpm, and at low speeds the thrust remained almost unchanged. After all the manipulations, it is necessary to re-set the ignition timing, and it may be necessary to adjust the idle speed.
Source
How to replace the chain tensioner on a VAZ 21213-VAZ 2131
Cars of the Niva family are very old models, in my opinion the very first cars went back to 1977 if memory serves, but these are new times and the car is still being produced and refined, so here are the chain tensioners that AvtoVAZ installed on its cars in Depending on the year of production, they may differ from each other, so for example, somewhere before 2000 or even higher, these cars of the Niva family came with the most common spring chain tensioners, these tensioners are very easy to remove, but one of their drawbacks (Or maybe an advantage) is the fact that they do not tension themselves, that is, from time to time you have to tighten them yourself, which is very inconvenient, but this is for someone, because it only takes 1-2 minutes to tighten the chain tensioner!
Now let’s look at a new type of tensioner that came on cars that were produced much later, so to speak, during Russia and not during the USSR, and so in new times, the so-called hydraulic chain tensioner was installed on this family of cars, its whole advantage is that you won’t need to constantly tighten it, that is, it was installed at the factory, and you, as they say, forgot about it, but it’s not so simple, if this tensioner suddenly jams or something else happens to it, then you will have to change it to a new one , and today you will learn how to replace this type of chain tensioner in this article. (By the way, you can see what a hydraulic chain tensioner looks like in the photo below)
By the way, if you have a regular tensioner of an old model, but it looks like it is shown in the photo, then read more about how to replace this unit in the article entitled
Removing the chain tensioner
1) At the very beginning of the operation, use a wrench to unscrew the tube that is connected to the hydraulic chain tensioner itself, and after this tube is unscrewed, disconnect it and move it aside.
2) Then, using a wrench or a socket with a universal joint (If it is difficult to get to), unscrew the two nuts that secure the hydraulic tensioner to the car engine (One of the nuts is not visible in the photo, but when you look at this tensioner on the car, then you will immediately understand where the second nut is, since it is located nearby) and then carefully remove it from the hole in which it is located.
Installing a new
Installing a new tensioner occurs in the reverse order of removal, and by the way, after installation, close the hood and sit behind the wheel of your car, then try to start the car and if that chain rattle disappears, then you did everything correctly and that’s why the chain rattled the tensioner itself.
Checking the tensioner for wear
- If you have removed your old tensioner and think that it is in working order and there is no point in changing it, then first rinse this tensioner in a container filled with gasoline (Rinse the tensioner at your discretion, just if all the dirt comes away from it, then it may even improve its performance like this how small particles of dirt will not interfere with the movement of the plunger itself, but more on that a little later), and after washing, thoroughly dry this tensioner or simply blow it out with compressed air.
- After washing and drying it, let's look at what it consists of, namely the plunger itself, which is also indicated under the number 1, and the tensioner housing, which is indicated under the number 2.
- Now, after studying this material, let's move on to checking, firstly, inspect the tensioner plunger itself; in no case should there be any kind of defects on its surface, such as, for example, scuffs, deep scratches, etc.
- Then inspect the body itself; there should also be no nicks, dents, etc. on its surface.
- And finally, perform another fairly simple check, namely, grab the tensioner plunger itself with your hand and then try to move it; if the plunger sticks in any place, then replace the tensioner with a new one.
Build process
- The front cylinder head cover is installed and a layer of sealant is applied.
- The bolts are tightened.
- The air filter is installed, sealant is applied and the pan is screwed on.
The fitting is unscrewed to bleed air from the block before filling with coolant. Pour liquid into the radiator. After it leaks out of the fitting, the lamb is screwed into place. Filling the engine oil. The hose and crankcase ventilation tube are connected to the fittings, and the copper wires are connected to the ignition coils.
The tips of the high-voltage wires are connected to the spark plugs. It is possible that after unscrewing the spark plugs, the remaining water in the wells penetrates the cylinders. Using a long knitting needle and a clean rag, it is easy to remove moisture from them.
Chevrolet Niva repair prices
Cost of maintenance work
Job | Price |
Changing the oil and filter in the engine (internal combustion engine) | 500 |
Replacing the air filter | 300 |
Replacing the cabin filter | 500 |
Replacing the fuel filter | 500 |
Changing the transmission oil | 2300 |
Changing the oil in the gearbox (manual transmission, MTA, robot, isitronic) | 500 |
Changing the oil in the front axle gearbox | 500 |
Changing the oil in the transfer case (pk) | 500 |
Changing the oil in the rear axle gearbox | 500 |
Replacing steering fluid | 500 |
Replacing hydraulic fluid in the control unit of the robotic box | 1200 |
Replacing brake fluid | 300 |
Cleaning fuel injectors on the engine, without removing the injectors | 1400 |
Replacing the drive belt | 600 |
Replacing the timing belt (timing belt) | 4300 |
Replacing power steering fluid | 400 |
Flushing the throttle valve | 1400 |
Coolant replacement | 700 |
Replacing brake hydraulic fluid | 300 |
Replacing transmission fluid | 600 |
Changing engine oil and filter with flushing | 700 |
Topping up technical fluid | 50 |
Replacing the timing belt of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine | 6800 |
Replacing the diesel engine fuel filter | 1000 |
Handbrake adjustment | 700 |
Replacing the timing chain of a diesel engine on a removed internal combustion engine | 4800 |
Replacing the timing chain on a removed internal combustion engine | 4800 |
Also interesting: Kia Sportage 2016 test between Niva and Lada
Suspension repair prices
Job | Price |
Replacement of trailing arm c/blocks | 800 |
Replacing upper s/blocks (one side) | 700 |
Replacement of lower s/blocks (one side) | 800 |
Replacing rear stabilizer bushings | 500 |
Replacing front stabilizer bushings | 1000 |
Car chassis diagnostics | 800 |
Control inspection | 450 |
Wheel s/o | 100 |
Replacing rear shock absorber | 1000 |
Replacing the front shock absorber | 1500 |
Replacing the steering knuckle | 1500 |
Replacement of rear wheel hub bearing | 1500 |
Replacing the front wheel hub bearing | 1500 |
Wheel Bearing Adjustment | 200 |
Replacing the front suspension spring | 1500 |
Replacement of rear suspension spring | 1500 |
Replacing the rear c/o lever | 1000 |
Replacing the front wishbone | 1000 |
Replacing lever c/blocks (lever removed) | 800 |
Replacing upper s/blocks (lever removed) | 800 |
Replacing the rear suspension shock absorber | 500 |
Replacing the rear suspension spring | 1000 |
Replacing the silent block of the rear axle beam suspension | 2000 |
Replacing the rear wheel hub | 1000 |
Replacing the rear wheel hub bearing | 1200 |
Adjusting the rear wheel hub bearing | 200 |
Replacement of rear suspension stabilizer bushings | 700 |
Replacing the rear suspension stabilizer bar | 500 |
Replacing the rear suspension arm | 600 |
Replacement of rear suspension axle tie rods | 2200 |
Replacing the rear suspension beam | 4500 |
Replacing the rear axle suspension spring | 2700 |
Strengthening the rear axle suspension spring | 2700 |
Replacing the silent block of the rear suspension arm | 500 |
Replacing the rear suspension trailing arm | 600 |
Replacing the rear suspension wishbone | 1000 |
Brake system repair prices
Job | Price |
Replacing the brake hose | 300 |
Replacing the brake pipe | 300 |
Replacing the master brake cylinder | 1000 |
Replacing brake fluid | 400 |
Bleeding the brake system, removing air | 400 |
Replacing front brake pads, disc brakes | 600 |
Replacing front brake pads, drum brakes | 1000 |
Replacing the front brake wheel cylinder | 1000 |
Replacing the rear brake wheel cylinder | 1000 |
Replacing the front brake caliper | 1200 |
Replacing the rear brake caliper | 1200 |
Front brake service | 200 |
Rear brake service | 200 |
Replacing hand brake pads | 1200 |
Maintenance of the hand brake mechanism | 300 |
Replacing the handbrake cable | 500 |
Adjusting the handbrake (handbrake) drive | 500 |
Replacing front brake discs | 700 |
Replacing rear brake discs | 1000 |
Replacing brake drums | 1000 |
Replacing the anti-lock braking system (ABS) brake unit | 1500 |
Replacing the brake force regulator | 300 |
Steering repair prices
Job | Price |
Replacing the tie rod end | 500 |
Replacing the steering rod | 700 |
Replacing the steering rack | 2300 |
Replacing the hydraulic booster (power steering) | 1000 |
Adjusting the toe of the front axle wheels | 1500 |
Rear axle wheel toe adjustment | 300 |
Replacing the power steering high pressure hose | 1700 |
Repair of power steering high pressure hose | 1500 |
Replacing the power steering pump (Hydraulic Power Steering) 500 to | 1300 |
Injection of steering linkage joints at a point | 70 |
Changing power steering oil with flushing | 1400 |
Replacing the power steering filter | 800 |
Replacing the steering gear | 1700 |
Replacing the swing arm | 1000 |
Replacing the steering linkage damper | 700 |
Replacing the steering column | 2300 |
Replacing the steering column propeller shaft | 1600 |
Replacing the longitudinal linkage of the steering linkage | 700 |
Replacing the steering linkage tie rod | 700 |
Electrical repair cost
Job | Price |
Generator replacement | 1200 |
Starter replacement | 2300 |
Generator repair | 700 |
Starter repair | 700 |
Replacing the generator diode bridge | 500 |
Replacing the starter relay | 500 |
Replacing the starter bendix | 500 |
Replacement of high-voltage wires | 300 |
Replacing spark plugs | 300 |
Replacing the ignition coil | 300 |
Replacing the ignition coil module | 600 |
Replacing the stove rheostat | 2300 |
Replacing the electric heater fan motor | 1000 |
Replacing the windshield wiper motor | 1000 |
Replacing the electronic control unit (ECU) | 600 |
Replacing the power window button module | 600 |
Replacing the air conditioner heater control unit | 1000 |
Replacement of the engine control unit (engine computer) | 600 |
Replacing the engine compartment fuse module | 1000 |
Replacing the interior fuse module | 1000 |
Replacing the trunk fuse module | 1000 |
Replacing the comfort control unit | 600 |
Replacing the central locking control module | 600 |
Replacing the electric motor of the engine radiator cooling fan | 1400 |
Replacing the electric motor of the air conditioner radiator cooling fan | 1400 |
Replacing the electric window motor | 1000 |
Replacing the power cable to the generator | 400 |
Replacing the power cable to the starter | 600 |
Replacing the ground wire | 500 |
Wiring harness repair | 2000 |
Replacing the fuse | 50 |
Replacing a light bulb | 100 |
Replacing the sound signal | 300 |
Replacing the steering column slip ring | 1600 |
Replacement under steering switch | 900 |
Replacing the ignition switch contact group | 2300 |
Replacing the door lock actuator | 1000 |
Engine repair
Job | Price |
Removal/installation of passenger cars | 10000 |
Removal/installation Jeep | 21000 |
Troubleshooting | 5500 |
Piston rings replacement
Job | Price |
Replacing piston rings of cylinder 4 | 15000 |
Replacement of piston rings of 5 cylinders | 20000 |
Replacement of piston rings of 6 cylinders | 30000 |
Replacing V6 piston rings | 35000 |
Replacing V8 piston rings | 40000 |
Replacing V12 piston rings | 60000 |
Engine head repair
Job | Price |
Repair of engine block head in-line cylinder head | 6000 |
Engine block head repair V-shaped engine | 12 000 |
Repair of engine block heads for jeeps in-line cylinder head | 6000 |
Troubleshooting | 3000 |
Repair of 8-valve cylinder head | 4000 |
Repair of 16-valve cylinder head | 5000 |
Repair of 20-valve cylinder head | 6000 |
Repair of 24-valve cylinder head | 7000 |
Also interesting: Niva tuning for off-road use from a professional
Injection pump repair
Job | Price |
Removal - installation | 5000 |
Turbine repair
Job | Price |
Diagnostics | 500 |
Removal/installation | 5000 |
Removing/installing Biturbo | 22000 |
Replacing diesel caps
Job | Price |
8 valves | 5000 |
12 valves | 6000 |
16 valves | 7000 |
24 valves | 8000 |
Replacing hydraulic compensators
Job | Price |
8 valves | 4000 |
16 valves | 6000 |
24 valves | 7000 |
Engine diagnostics
Job | Price |
Technical | 500 |
Engine diagnostics with gasoline compression measurement. | 800 |
Diagnostics with compression measurement diesel 1 cylinder | 300 |
Replacing gaskets
Job | Price |
Block heads in-line engine | 6000 |
Block heads V-shaped engine (one) | 8000 |
Valve cover | 600 |
Valve cover V engine | 800 |
Replacing the timing belt on a removed engine
Job | Price |
Timing belt on an in-line engine | 3000 |
Timing belt on V-shaped engine 4 | 4000 |
Replacing the drive belt | 800 |
Replacing the timing chain on an in-line engine | 4000 |
Repair removed engine
Job | Price |
4-cylinder engine repair | 16000 |
5-cylinder engine repair | 20000 |
6-cylinder engine repair | 25000 |
V6 engine repair | 29000 |
V8 engine repair | 34000 |
V12 engine repair | 45000 |
Replacing piston rings removed engine without head
Job | Price |
Replacement of piston rings 4 – cylinders | 9000 |
Replacement of piston rings of 5 cylinders | 11000 |
Replacement of piston rings of 6 cylinders | 12000 |
Replacing V6 Piston Rings | 14000 |
Replacing V8 Piston Rings | 18000 |
Replacing V12 Piston Rings | 22000 |
Replacing valve stem seals
Job | Price |
Replacing valve stem seals for 8 valves | 4000 |
Replacing valve stem seals for 12 valves | 5000 |
Replacing valve stem seals for 16 valves | 6000 |
Replacing valve stem seals 24 valves | 7000 |
Replacing hydraulic compensators: 8/16/VR6
Job | Price |
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 8 valves | 2000 |
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 12 valves | 3000 |
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 16 valves | 4000 |
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 24 valves | 5000 |
Work with a removed internal combustion engine
Job | Price |
Replacing a timing belt with a roller in-line engine | 2000 |
Replacing a timing belt with a roller V-shaped engine | 5000 |
With/from the pallet | 1000 |
C/U intake manifold | 2800 |
General engine repair work
Job | Price |
Replacing the engine - remove the engine / install the engine | 9700 |
Replacing the engine - remove the engine | 4800 |
Replacing the engine - install the engine | 6800 |
Engine repair | 14800 |
Engine overhaul | 9700 |
Replacing the cylinder head (cylinder head) | 4200 |
Replacing the cylinder head gasket (cylinder head) | 4200 |
Replacing the camshaft oil seal | 1000 |
Replacing the valve cover gasket | 300 |
Replacing valve stem seals on a removed cylinder head | 2200 |
Replacing valves | 2700 |
Replacing intake valves | 2300 |
Replacing exhaust valves | 2300 |
Replacing valve guides | 2700 |
Replacing the valve seat | 2700 |
Crimping the cylinder head (cylinder head) | 1000 |
Grinding the plane of the cylinder head (cylinder head) | 900 |
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal (kv) | 1000 |
Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal (kv) | 600 |
Replacing spark plugs for a gasoline engine | 600 |
Replacing the gas timing belt | 4300 |
Replacing the drive belt | 500 |
Replacing the engine mount (internal combustion engine) | 1000 |
Replacing the intake manifold gasket | 1000 |
Replacing the throttle valve | 600 |
Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket | 1000 |
Replacing a gasoline/diesel engine turbine | 2300 |
Flywheel replacement | 4700 |
Replacing two mass flywheels | 6700 |
Replacing the engine cooling system water pump | 4300 |
Replacing the engine cooling radiator | 1500 |
Engine diagnostics | 600 |
Replacing the engine pan gasket | 2300 |
Replacing the engine sump | 2300 |
Replacing the timing chain without removing the internal combustion engine | 6800 |
Engine sump repair | 1000 |
Replacing a diesel engine - remove / install the engine | 9800 |
Replacing a diesel engine - remove the diesel engine | 5800 |
Replacing a diesel engine - install a diesel engine | 7700 |
Replacing a diesel engine - remove / install the engine | 9800 |
Replacing the timing chain of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine | 11700 |
Replacing the timing belt of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine | 6800 |
Diesel engine diagnostics | 1000 |
Repair of the cylinder head of a gasoline engine | 2300 |
Diesel engine repair | 19500 |
Repair of the cylinder head of a diesel engine | 4700 |
Repair of radiators and air conditioners
Job | Price |
Replacing the air conditioner radiator | 1000 |
Replacing the interior heater radiator | 5700 |
Replacing the air conditioning compressor | 1500 |
Replacing the air conditioning compressor clutch | 2000 |
Refilling the air conditioner | 800 |
Air conditioner testing | 1000 |
Replacing the interior heater fan | 1000 |
Replacing the interior heater flap activator | 800 |
Replacing the climate control control unit | 800 |
Replacing the heater radiator hose | 800 |
Replacing the heater heater circulation valve | 1000 |
Replacing an additional heater heater pump | 1000 |
Gearbox repair prices
Job | Price |
Replacing an automatic transmission (automatic transmission) | 6900 |
Replacing a manual transmission (manual transmission) | 4800 |
Replacing a robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot) | 6300 |
Replacing a variable speed transmission (CVT) | 6300 |
Repair of a manual transmission (manual transmission) | 2800 |
Repair of robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot) | 3700 |
Repair of a variator transmission (VKP) | 6800 |
Replacing the input shaft oil seal of a manual transmission (manual transmission) | 400 |
Replacing the output shaft seal of a manual transmission (manual transmission) | 400 |
Replacing the gearbox seal (automatic transmission, manual transmission, MTA, isitronic, robot) | 500 |
Replacing the transmission gasket | 800 |
Replacing the transfer gearbox (pk) | 4300 |
Replacing the transfer case oil seal (pk) | 500 |
Replacing the transfer case gasket (pk) | 500 |
Replacing the torque converter of an automatic transmission | 7700 |
Replacing the clutch of a manual transmission (manual transmission) | 4800 |
Replacing the release bearing of the gearbox (manual transmission, MTA, robot, isitronic) | 7300 |
Replacing the clutch of a robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot) | 6800 |
Replacing the drive of the transfer case switching mechanism (transfer case, transfer case) | 1300 |
Replacing the rear axle drive drive shaft | 600 |
Replacing the front axle drive drive shaft | 600 |
Replacing the driveshaft cross | 600 |
Drive repair prices
Job | Price |
Replacing the right front drive (CV joint) | 1200 |
Replacing the left front drive (CV joint) | 1200 |
Replacing the internal drive boot (CV joint) of the front axle | 1500 |
Replacing the external drive boot (CV joint) of the front axle | 1500 |
Replacing a front-wheel drive CV joint | 1500 |
Replacement of the main pair (gearbox assembly, differential assembly) of the front axle | 3300 |
Replacing the right front axle drive oil seal | 1300 |
Replacing the left front axle drive oil seal | 1300 |
Replacing the front axle drive engagement mechanism | 1500 |
Repair of the front axle drive engagement mechanism | 2300 |
Replacing the front axle | 2500 |
Replacing the rear axle axle bearing | 2300 |
Replacing the rear axle axle shaft | 1200 |
Replacing the rear axle axle seal | 1000 |
Replacing the right rear axle drive | 1000 |
Replacing the left rear axle drive | 1000 |
Replacing the rear axle drive boot | 1200 |
Replacement of the CV joint grenade of the rear axle drive | 1500 |
Replacing the rear axle drive oil seal | 1500 |
Replacing the rear axle gearbox | 3000 |
And also interesting: Engine from a foreign car to the field without modifications |
Auto Bryansk Cost of painting
Job | Price |
Painting the new hood on both sides | 4800 |
Used hood painting on one side | 2300 |
New front bumper painting | 2300 |
Used front bumper paint | 2000 |
New rear bumper painting | 2300 |
Used rear bumper painting | 2000 |
Painting the front right fender new | 2000 |
Front fender paint | 1800 |
Painting the front left fender new | 2000 |
New front door paint | 2600 |
Painting the front left door used | 2300 |
New front right door paint | 2500 |
Painting the rear right door used | 2300 |
New rear door paint | 2500 |
Partial painting of the rear left fender | 2000 |
The rear right wing is fully painted | 2800 |
Partial painting of the right threshold | 1000 |
Full threshold painting | 1800 |
Complete painting of the trunk lid | 2000 |
Partial painting of the trunk lid | 1000 |
Complete painting of the apron | 1000 |
Front panel painting is partial | 1000 |
Full car body painting | 39900 |
Car exterior painting | 29900 |
Local painting of one part | 1300 |
Partial painting of one part | 1300 |
Polishing car paintwork | 4900 |
Abrasive polishing of car body | 6800 |
Protective car polishing | 6800 |
Removing small chips and scratches on the car body | 1300 |
Car body repair cost
Job | Price |
installation of the car on the slipway | 500 |
elimination of simple distortion of the car body | 3000 |
elimination of distortion of the car body of medium complexity | 6000 |
elimination of complex misalignment of the body of foreign cars | 12000 |
Removing the car's front bumper assembly | 900 |
installation of the car front bumper assembly | 700 |
Removing the car rear bumper assembly | 800 |
installation of the car rear bumper assembly | 900 |
rear bumper disassembly | 400 |
car rear bumper - assemble | 600 |
front bumper disassembly | 600 |
car front bumper - assemble | 700 |
car mudguard plastic removal | 150 |
installation of rear mudguards plastic | 250 |
installation of front plastic mudguards | 250 |
front car door - disassemble, assemble for painting | 1000 |
car rear door - disassemble, assemble for painting | 1000 |
front and rear doors of foreign cars - replacement with reinforcement overhaul | 1500 |
car door front, rear assembly - replacement with adjustment to the opening | 1500 |
side mirror of foreign cars without electric drive - replacement | 1000 |
side mirror of foreign cars with electric drive - replacement | 1000 |
Replacing door molding - glued | 600 |
car door molding on pistons - replacement | 500 |
car radiator grill replacement | 150 |
car body liner removal | 500 |
car body fender liner installation | 500 |
Replacing the headlight | 500 |
Replacing the taillight | 500 |
Replacing a car hood | 1000 |
Replacing a car trunk lid | 1000 |
Replacement of a car hood with adjustment to the opening | 1500 |
Replacement of a car trunk lid with fitting to the opening | 1600 |
Replacing the front removable wing | 850 |
Replacing a car roof without a sunroof assembly | 9000 |
Replacing a car roof with sunroof assembly | 13000 |
Replacing the front side member with mudguard | 7500 |
Partial replacement of the front side member with mudguard | 3500 |
Replacement of the car rear panel assembly | 7500 |
Partial replacement of the rear panel | 4000 |
Replacement of the car front panel assembly | 4000 |
Partial replacement of the front panel of the car | 4000 |
Replacement of car side threshold assembly | 5750 |
Partial replacement of car side threshold | 4000 |
Replacement of the middle pillar with part of the threshold assembly | 10500 |
Partial replacement of the car's middle pillar with part of the threshold | 6700 |
Restoring cloudy plastic headlights of foreign cars | 800 |
Restoring cloudy plastic car lights | 800 |
Abrasive polishing of car body | 8000 |
Protective polishing of car body | 3000 |
Removing and installing the car cap | 1000 |
Adjusting the position/clearances of the car hood | 400 |
Remove/install/replace hood molding/lining | 400 |
Remove/install/replace hood lock latch cable | 500 |
Replacing one hood hinge | 1700 |
Replacing two hood hinges | 2200 |
Hood noise insulation remove / install / replace | 400 |
Remove/install/replace hood seal | 300 |
Hood shock absorber one remove/install/replace | 200 |
Hood shock absorber pair remove/install/replace | 400 |
Hood hook/latch remove/install/replace | 400 |
Replacing the hood remove / install / disassemble / assemble / adjust | 3800 |
Remove/install front bumper trim | 1300 |
Front bumper reinforcement remove/install | 1600 |
Front bumper trim bracket one replacement | 1600 |
Bracket for front bumper trim, both replacement | 1700 |
Front bumper absorber one replacement | 1700 |
Front bumper absorber both replacement | 1700 |
Front fog light PTF one remove / install / replace | 1400 |
PTF front fog light, both remove/install/replace | 1700 |
Front bumper trim remove / install / disassemble / assemble / replace | 2800 |
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Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment
- Characteristic extraneous clicks appear in the engine, which become louder as the vehicle speed increases.
- The engine is unstable even at idle speed.
- The car's acceleration time increases significantly because the engine does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal.
- Acceleration occurs in jerks, during which clouds of black smoke may fly out of the exhaust pipe.
- Valve wear accelerates many times over, and if the shafts are out of synchronization too much, the valves become deformed and their seats break.
- Incorrect adjustment can also lead to a broken timing chain. This, in turn, can puncture the radiator, break the fan and other engine parts.
- The engine constantly overheats, and the consumption of engine oil and antifreeze can increase significantly.
As can be seen from this article, correctly set timing marks are the key to long and uninterrupted engine operation. There is nothing complicated about this; even a novice car enthusiast can do it.
It is important to take your time, follow the above sequence of actions, and also try not to drop the sprocket lock washers into the engine sump. Because it will be very difficult to get them from there
The Chevrolet Niva from the SUV family is equipped with a chain drive in the timing mechanism. The operational properties of a chain are much greater than those of a belt drive. The chain also has better technical characteristics, which affects the transmission torque. If a loose belt causes the pulley teeth to slip, a weakened chain does not allow this to happen. But with the operation of the car, the gas distribution chain also tends to wear out, stretch, burst and become unusable, which requires its replacement
At the stage of replacing the chain, it is important to carry out the installation following the marks. This article will tell you what tags are, their purpose and how to set them on a VAZ-2123.
Adjusting the chain according to the marks.
When replacing a chain, installing a new one should be done in several stages:
- collecting the necessary tools: screwdriver, set of keys for 8, 10 and 13. Wrench for rotating the crankshaft
- The car is placed on a viewing hole or raised using a jack. The wheels are fixed with shoes or a stop.
- Before starting work, you must turn off the fan and unscrew the radiator mounts. All pipes, except the air duct, remain in place; the antifreeze does not drain.
- After this, the valve cover is dismantled. After all the fasteners have been unscrewed, you must carefully remove it, preventing dirt from getting inside.
Phase adjustment in case of mismatch
If the notches do not match, work continues:
- The “whiskers” of the lock washer are bent. The fixing bolt is unscrewed using a key set to “13”, and the position of the camshaft sprocket is loosened.
- The first gear on the gearbox is engaged, allowing you to avoid spinning when unscrewing the crankshaft gear bolt.
- The fastener is removed with a lock washer. To prevent the bolts from falling into the engine sump, use a deep-head wrench or unscrew the bolt by hand.
- Remove the chain tensioner using a screwdriver. It should be replaced if it is stretched or strained, during scheduled maintenance, after 60-80 thousand kilometers.
Valve train chain
If during engine operation there is a ringing sound that resembles the operation of a diesel engine, then most likely the Niva Chevrolet timing chain needs to be replaced.
Replacement
If you do not replace it in time, it may break while driving. To replace, do the following:
- Installing the car in the pit
- The motor protection with boot is dismantled
- We raise the handbrake; it is advisable to place special supports under the wheels
- Drain the antifreeze and remove the radiator and fan
- Carefully disconnect the accelerator cable going to the air filter from the valve covers and pipes
- We remove the crankshaft sensor, loosen the bolts that secure the generator
- Move the generator aside and remove the belt.
- We unscrew several bolts that secure the water pump, and then remove it
- We dismantle the tension and bypass roller of the belt
- Remove all interfering pipes
- Cover the cylinder head to prevent debris from getting into it.
- After unscrewing the mounting bolts, remove the camshaft gear
- Remove the oil pipe along with the hydraulic tensioner
- We remove the chain and all gears of the oil pump, crankshaft and camshaft
- We take a new oil seal and install it on the timing cover
Installation
When the Niva Sherole timing chain and all necessary system elements have been removed, you need to correctly install and configure the new parts, for this you need:
- Take the fastening bolt and install it on the shoe
- We check that the shoe is stationary and then tighten the bolt
- We install the new gears in their place so that they coincide with the existing marks
- We install the clamp, if for some reason it does not sit in its place, we file it
Before installing the chain, it must be lubricated with engine oil, after which it can be put in place as follows:
- First on the crankshaft gear
- After that, to the oil pump
- And finally on the camshaft
To ensure better operation and fixation of this mechanism, it contains special timing marks Niva Chevrolet
If they are not taken into account when installing the chain, this can lead to the gas distribution system becoming out of synchronization and increased wear of parts.
Adjustment by marks is carried out in several stages:
- All necessary tools are prepared
- The car is installed on the pit
- The fan is turned off and the radiator mount is unscrewed
- Removing the valve cover
When all the preparatory steps have been completed, the following adjustments are made:
- Rotate the crankshaft until the bearing and camshaft marks match. If the chain is installed correctly, the existing marks on the chain cover and crankshaft will match. If they do not coincide, we adjust the position of the phases
- To make this adjustment, loosen the fastening at the lock washer, then use a 13 key to remove the washer along with the camshaft sprocket
- We set the first gear so that the bolt that secures the crankshaft gear does not turn. Unscrew the fastening bolt and lock washer
- We remove the tensioner.
- Pull the chain towards you and remove it from the sprocket
- To adjust it, move it one tooth
- We begin to turn the crankshaft until the notches coincide
- Install the lock washer. We place the bolt in the place for fastening, but do not tighten it
- Rotate the crankshaft and check if the marks match. If they match, then the work can be considered completed
It is important that the marks match as accurately as possible, since the correctness and stability of the engine will depend on this
How is the replacement made?
If chain stretching is detected and the decision is made to replace only the hydraulic tensioner, then this is an incorrect assumption. It is necessary to replace all parts: chain, hydraulic tensioner, seals, gaskets. Replacement is done in the following sequence, using all the necessary tools:
Use a spanner wrench to unscrew the tube fitting, which has a “10” head. The tube is designed to supply oil to the hydraulic tensioner.
Having loosened the fitting, the tube is removed and moved upward so that it does not interfere with further work. The two nuts securing the device itself are also unscrewed using a “10” wrench.
The device is ready to be removed from its mounting location. We grab the protruding part with our hands and pull out the device. There is a gasket on it, which also needs to be removed to replace it with a new one.
A used device cannot be repaired and requires the installation of a new one. Before installation, it is necessary to coat the gasket with a layer of sealant to prevent oil leakage.
Replacing an old device does not require serious mental and especially physical effort. Installation of a new one is carried out in the following steps:
- The device is inserted into the new seat, having first checked that the structure is identical to the old tensioner.
- Screwed in with two fastening nuts.
- The tube is inserted and secured.
It is simply impossible to make a wrong replacement. After installation, the operation of the motor and the tension of the new chain are checked. An important point is to replace the timing chain in order to 100% protect the car and your health from unexpected breakdowns on the road. This article will tell you how to replace the chain.
Now the owners of the Chevrolet Niva can, without doubt and without errors, correct the existing problem with weakening the chain tension. Remember that if your car has traveled more than 100 thousand km, and there are no characteristic sounds from under the hood, then do not neglect the situation, but disassemble and check the looseness of the chain and the functionality of the tensioner. Happy renovation work!
Recently, an old friend of mine came to see me in his old Chevrolet Niva with the characteristic sound of an extended chain.
In addition to the timing kit, I had the foresight to purchase even a front cover gasket, a crankshaft oil seal and a kilo of marinated meat. I could not refuse such an offer. So, Niva Chevrolet replaced the timing chain and front crankshaft oil seal.
First, let the engine cool to an acceptable temperature. Remove the pipe by unscrewing the bolt by 10 and loosening the clamps.
Next, we unscrew the eight nuts by 10 and move aside the throttle cable and all the pipes that will interfere with us, remove the valve cover.
Remove the air conditioner belt by unscrewing the bolt 13 of the tension roller.
Then loosen three 13mm nuts and one bolt of the generator belt tension roller and remove it.
Now comes the fun part. To unscrew the pulley nut, we need a 38mm socket. Since the elongated head does not fit under a regular wrench (the radiator is in the way, but we don’t want to remove it), we use a pry bar, carefully sawed off from the hub key of some large car.
Everything fits perfectly. Unscrew the nut and remove the crankshaft pulley.
Unscrew the deflection roller.
We dismantle the reinforcing plate.
We unscrew the six nuts securing the front timing chain cover to the block and the three bolts securing it to the pan and remove it.
Set the top dead center. The key on the crankshaft should align against the mark on the block.
The mark for the camshaft sprockets is against the ebb of the camshaft housing.
Next, unscrew the oil supply pipe and two nuts 10 of the chain tensioner.
Next, unscrew the tensioner shoe, damper and remove the timing chain.
Compare the new and old timing chain. It could be worse.
New timing kit.
Reinstall the chain, guide and tensioner shoe. We tighten the chain by hand and check that the marks match.
To make it convenient for us to check the marks after installing the front timing cover, we find the factory mark on the crankshaft pulley and mark it with a white marker. This mark at TDC should be opposite the center of the crankshaft sensor.
We install the front cover, crankshaft pulley and tensioner. Let's check the marks again. We install all the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Fill with fluids, start the engine and enjoy.
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Useful post?
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Why are timing chain marks set?
The engine of any passenger car has 2 shafts: camshaft and crankshaft. In most cars they are connected by a belt drive. On a Chevrolet Niva car this is a chain transmission, and a single-row chain is used there. The advantages of such a system are obvious: the chain, unlike a belt, never slips on the pulleys and lasts much longer. However, the chain can stretch over time, and the teeth on the shaft sprockets can wear out or even break. This will lead to desynchronization of the camshaft and crankshaft. Their work will not be coordinated, so the engine may fail
Therefore, when adjusting or replacing the timing chain, it is very important to align the engine shafts in accordance with the marks on the pulleys and timing case. This is not easy to do, since, firstly, the marks are located in hard-to-reach places, and secondly, they need to be set very accurately, since the chain, unlike a traditional belt, cannot be slightly tensioned if necessary
Replacement video
The gas distribution system of any engine must work correctly. If problems occur in its operation, this leads to premature wear of the motor and numerous breakdowns. To accurately adjust the timing, special marks are used, according to which the shafts in the engine are aligned. We will tell you about the correct placement of marks on a Chevrolet Niva car in this article.
Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment
The gas distribution mechanism greatly influences the operation of the engine, so when replacing parts and setting marks, you must be careful and avoid mistakes. But if this does happen, the engine will immediately let you know about it.
If there is a serious error, the engine will not start. If the phase shift is small, the electronic engine management system compensates for this by adjusting the ignition. If the phases are shifted by half a tooth or a gear tooth, the system is not able to compensate for such a shift.
This leads to the following consequences:
- sudden loss of traction - the car responds poorly to pressing the accelerator pedal;
- deterioration in fuel efficiency;
- the engine runs intermittently, even at high speeds;
- the coolant temperature rises, causing engine overheating with all the ensuing consequences;
- premature wear of the camshaft, burnout of valves, broken chain followed by major engine overhaul.
When does a belt need to be replaced?
- during scheduled maintenance (if the mileage is 100 thousand km);
- if the marks on the camshaft sprocket do not match the mark on the bearing housing identified during phase diagnostics;
- when the pump that drives the “water pump” fails;
- if the chain is damaged (wear, stretching or cracking), requiring urgent replacement and adjustment according to the marks.
Advice : if the engine does not pull and does not gain speed, you need to check the DPKV and timing marks and set the TDC (engine top dead center) on the flywheel. Both pulleys (inlet and outlet) are placed along the marks with the chain tensioned.