Installing timing marks for Niva Chevrolet: step-by-step instructions with photos

In a Chevrolet Niva car, the gas distribution mechanism is driven by a chain. This allows you to get better performance when operating the car. In engine models with a timing belt installed, teeth may slip when it is stretched. But, despite the higher technical performance, the chain also has some disadvantages. It is subject to stretching and may burst if the engine is used frequently at high speeds. When replacing the chain, you should pay special attention to the location of the Niva Chevrolet timing marks.

Marks are special notches that can be seen on the pulley of the gas distribution system. These marks must be aligned with those on the chain.

Photos of timing marks Niva Chevrolet

Part 2. Valve + piston = repair Niva Chevrolet NIVA Chevrolet 4+4

Then you should remove the element tension mechanism.

Location of TDC marks The marks are located on the camshaft sprocket, hole a, and on the camshaft bearing housing, protrusion b.

If the valve timing is incorrect, the engine will not operate normally. How to remove it correctly can be found in articles about the hydraulic chain tensioner of a Niva Chevrolet car. If you pull it towards yourself the distance will be removed along with the chain.

If after several revolutions there are no discrepancies, the fastening bolts on both sprockets are tightened, and the lock washers are installed in their original places. The adjustment of the timing marks ends here and all engine components are reassembled. Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment: Characteristic extraneous clicks appear in the engine, which become louder as the speed of the machine increases.

The engine is unstable even at idle speed. The car's acceleration time increases significantly because the engine does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal. Acceleration occurs in jerks, during which clouds of black smoke may fly out of the exhaust pipe.

Valve wear accelerates many times over, and if the shafts are out of synchronization too much, the valves become deformed and their seats break.

Incorrect adjustment can also lead to a broken timing chain. It is recommended that when loosening the tightening, unscrew it by hand or with a deep-head wrench.

What are tags and their purpose in the Shnivy mechanism

Marks in the timing system on a Chevrolet Niva car are special types of notches and holes that are located on the gas distributor pulleys. The photo shows pulleys with marks along which the timing chain is aligned.

See:

Aligning the chain with marks is done so that it is better fixed and holds the gas distribution mechanism itself. If you install the chain without following the marks, then the operation of the pulleys will be uncoordinated and will then lead to their rapid wear. Therefore, it is important, whenever replacing a chain or parts of a gas distribution mechanism, to install them in accordance with the marks. There may be a malfunction of the timing system when the chain tension is loosened or it is stretched. In order to correctly set the timing mechanism according to special marks, we will look at the procedure for installing the gas distributor phases on the VAZ-2123.

Setting the timing of the gas distribution mechanism using special marks

So, setting the phases in the timing system according to special marks on a Chevrolet Niva car includes the following sequence of actions:

First, we make sure that we have the necessary tools: a screwdriver and wrenches 8, 13 and 10. You will also need a special tool that will need to be used to turn the crankshaft. The VAZ-2123 car is installed on the inspection hole and the wheels are secured using the handbrake. You can put shoes under the wheels. We open the hood on the Chevrolet Niva and remove the following elements: the fan is removed; unscrew the radiator mounts and move it to the side

There is no need to remove the pipes and drain the liquid; the air duct pipe is removed. Having reached the valve cover, you need to unscrew its fasteners and carefully remove it to prevent dirt and other objects from getting inside.

Timing marks VAZ(LADA) 21214 NIVA

Installing timing marks

for VAZ(LADA) 21214
NIVA
. Sorry about the quality. The camera died.

Part 2. Valve piston = repair Niva Chevrolet NIVA Chevrolet 44

Overhaul of the Chevrolet NIVA engine.

After repair work, it is recommended to replace the cover gasket.

After the cover was removed, the following view is observed, shown in the photo below.

Under the valve cover

See:

Important! When unscrewing the bolt, it is necessary to control its position, because it is not fixed by anything and can freely fall into the engine sump. It is recommended that when loosening the tightening, unscrew it by hand or with a deep-head wrench

When assembling, do not forget to replace the gasket on the cover!

The work carried out does not require much time, but is the key to the successful operation of the parts of the gas distribution mechanism of the Niva Chevrolet car

Drawing a conclusion, I would like to note the importance of setting the timing chain according to special marks. If for some reason you forgot to align the pulleys with the marks, then it is better not to start this process and make the adjustment again

This will extend the life of the timing system and all its components.

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Parts and consumables:

The chain tensioner is being dismantled. How to remove it correctly can be found in articles about the hydraulic chain tensioner of a Niva Chevrolet car.

It is possible to do without removing the chain tensioner, but for this you need to have the appropriate skills. If you decide not to remove the tensioner, then you need to press out the tensioner plunger using a screwdriver.

We proceed to removing the crankshaft sprocket along with the chain. To do this, you need to manually pull it towards you about cm.

The location of the chain on the teeth changes. The best option is to move in increments of one tooth.

The sprocket is installed on the camshaft flange along with the chain. When the location of the chain on the sprocket changes, the holes in it will accordingly not coincide with the locating pin.

To do this, rotate the crankshaft in the required direction until the hole and the notch of the pin coincide. Now take the timing chain and lubricate it as well. First install it on the crank pulley gears, then on the oil pump and on the camshaft.

The chain should be tensioned from sprocket to sprocket, while observing the position of the pulleys according to the marks.

Install the timing belt tensioning component and tighten all nuts with a wrench. Having done this, check again that the marks match.

split for Chevrolet Niva

Also tighten the screws on the gears. The scrolling step is one tooth. The sprocket with chain is placed on the camshaft flange.

Niva Chevrolet

When the chain moves on the sprocket, its holes will not line up with the pin. You should turn the crankshaft in the specified direction until the mark and pin match

It is important to secure the part with a bolt and washer without tightening it completely. After turning the crankshaft twice with a special wrench, check the placement of marks on the camshaft gear and bearings

If the marks correspond, their adjustment has been successfully completed.

The cylinder head cover has been removed. Remove the cylinder head cover, see. Rotating the crankshaft, align the marks on the camshaft sprocket and its bearing housing. If the chain is installed correctly, the mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with the long mark on the camshaft chain cover. If the marks do not match, straighten the lock washer tabs of the camshaft sprocket bolt. Engage first gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning, remove the bolt and

Preparing spare parts and tools for timing belt replacement

To adjust the marks you will need the following tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • wrenches for 8, 13, 10, or heads;
  • device for turning the crankshaft;
  • sealant;
  • shoes for wheels (preferably).

The condition of the mechanism greatly depends on the driving style. The chain is much stronger than the belt, but it also does not like jerking or high speeds. Therefore, driving in a sporty style, with sharp gear changes and acceleration in extreme modes, quickly “sentences” the timing belt. And the engine, transmission, car as a whole. The condition of the chain depends on the condition of the oil, tension, and alignment of the rotating parts. Therefore, when the mileage declared by the manufacturer expires, it is necessary to change not only the chain, but the accompanying parts.

The best way to determine the need for replacement is to visually inspect the timing parts. But since access to details is difficult, we can judge by indirect signs. Such as increased noise, extraneous knocks. They can be caused by wear of the tensioner and damper, sprockets, increased play of the water pump shaft, chain stretching, and other factors. Play in the pump shaft is especially dangerous, since if it breaks down, the engine overheats and dangerous chain beating occurs.

For confident driving, along with a worn chain, it is necessary to change:

  • tensioner;
  • sedative;
  • stars;
  • crankshaft oil seal (if necessary);
  • cylinder head gasket;

Replacing all of the listed parts together will allow you to confidently operate the car without worrying about the condition of the timing belt.

When to use low gear

For what purposes is a transfer case even needed, when does it make sense to engage the locking and downshift? Such seemingly simple, but at the same time serious questions will become clear when considering the following example. When driving on a country road on a hard surface, fourth gear is engaged. Suddenly, a large puddle with a soft, unreliable surface appears in front of the car. In such an obstacle the car can easily “sink”. To prevent this, you should engage a lower gear and slowly overcome such an obstacle without haste. This gear is designed specifically for driving on soft road surfaces, when even in first gear the car feels “hard”.

Low gear

It is worth noting that in order to engage a lower gear on a Niva Chevrolet, you need to stop - this is how the car’s differential is designed. But you don’t need to stop at all to turn the lock on and off. But is it worth using such additional and, without a doubt, useful functions of the machine often? Experienced drivers recommend using them in places where the dirt is not located on level ground, but with various potholes and the like.

Thus, the low gear of the Chevrolet transfer case is designed for comfortable off-road driving and overcoming various obstacles. In such a gear you need to drive slowly, you cannot accelerate sharply, because at this moment the wheels will receive a large load, as a result of which a real hole can form, from which it will be very difficult for the car to get out.

With this driving style, the motorist will better feel the movement of the wheels, as a result of which, when they “bury”, as evidenced by the chaotic movement of the car, it will be possible to immediately do something after overcoming the obstacle. Most often, this is done by changing the trajectory of the car.

It is also worth noting that when driving through sticky mud or deep puddles, you should never suddenly engage second downshift. At the same time, the torque increases, as a result of which the car can simply “choke”, stalling at the most inopportune moment.

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What's next?

The car is placed in fifth gear. Use a special 38 mm wrench to remove the nut on the crankshaft pulley.

Unscrew the spark plugs and make marks on the crankshaft, as well as on the camshaft gear. Then dismantle the pulley and unscrew the fastenings of the lower frontal cover. They are located on the engine sump. Unscrew the two damper mounting bolts. The last one is removed too. The oil pump gear clamps are bent. Then the bolt is unscrewed with a 17mm head.

The oil lines are removed from the tensioner using a brake pipe wrench. Afterwards you will need to unscrew the nut of the low oil pressure sensor from the tee. To do this, you will need a 22mm wrench. This procedure is required when using the “Pilot” tensioner.

Using a spark plug wrench, the tee is removed and a pressure sensor is installed instead. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two tensioner nuts. The last one is removed from the place. The top nut is removed. It can be obtained with pliers or a tubular wrench.

The next step is to remove all three gears, as well as the chain. Use a screwdriver to remove the old crankshaft oil seal. It is necessary to thoroughly wipe the oil seal seat from dirt.

You will need a clean rag. It is also advisable to wipe the lid. After these procedures, a new oil seal is pressed in. To make it go in easily, you will need to pre-lubricate the elements with oil. An old oil seal is used as a mandrel (so that the part fits evenly into the hole).

Replacing the chain drive

  1. Place the car on a level surface. Open the hood. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air filter.
  2. The choke cable should be disconnected and moved away. It is also necessary to disconnect all electrical drives and pipes.
  3. Remove the fan, generator belt and pump roller. The belt should be thoroughly examined. If deep cracks or other damage is found on it, it must be replaced with a new one. Remove the tray protection and thoroughly clean its cover.
  4. Remove the valve plug. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket screw.
  5. Take a wrench and unscrew the ratchet nut.
  6. Now we begin to rotate the crankshaft until the marks on it and on the engine casing completely coincide. Make sure that the marks also match on the bearing housing and camshaft sprockets.

How to set engine marks on a VAZ 2121

There is a standard 21213 NIVA, the engine of which has tractor traction at the bottom and lacks traction at speeds above 3000. Replacing the chain, all the sprockets, the camshaft with the bed did not solve the problem. Rearranging the chain on a tooth back and forth, too. It was noticed that the mark on the camshaft sprocket is not installed strictly opposite the protrusion; it can be placed half a tooth forward or backward. It was decided to check the valve timing. A device for adjusting valves with an indicator is welcome, but not at all required. However, I have it. The valve clearances must be properly adjusted!

When replacing the lower sprocket, check that the marks on the small sprocket and the pulley match. They correspond to TDC.

Having placed a mark on the pulley opposite the long mark 3 (TDC on the distributor drive cover), we mark marks 1 and 2 (5 and 10 degrees) on the pulley with a light marker (I used a white oil marker). We turn the crankshaft so that the standard mark on the pulley is opposite mark 1 (10 degrees) and mark 2 more marks - 5 and 10 degrees. on the other side of the zero mark. Also, by placing the extreme marks opposite the existing protrusions, we mark 15 and 20 degrees. We mark the zero mark on the second side of the pulley (now it is on both halves of the pulley). We have a scale marked on the crankshaft pulley - 20 - 15 -10 - 5 - 0 - 5 -10 - 15 -20 degrees. This is the easy way. You can make a scale out of paper, mark it more precisely, for example, with an accuracy of 1 degree, and stick it on the pulley. This method is a little more complicated, but also more accurate. I was quite happy with the 5 degree scale.

We install the crankshaft and camshaft according to the marks, as when adjusting the valves, the slider looks at the 4th cylinder. If there is an indicator, install it on the 2nd valve (intake of the 1st cylinder). We will use them to look for the moment of opening and closing of the valve. If there is no indicator, press the rocker up, using an open-end wrench 13-17. In this position, both valves of the 1st cylinder are clamped and slightly open (overlapping). Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise 10 -15 degrees. Using the applied marks, we find the moment when the intake valve begins to open by the appearance and disappearance of the gap between the rocker and the camshaft cam. We look at the pulley and the long mark on the cover, and count the degrees. For example, the mark is exactly between 10 and 15, we get 12.5 degrees. — the beginning of the opening of the intake valve. Let's remember. We move the indicator to the first valve (exhaust of the 1st cylinder) or control it by pulling the rocker up, turn the crankshaft clockwise, and find the moment when the exhaust valve closes.

For example, we got 15 degrees.

By simple calculations (in our head) we find the valve overlap point (15 + 12.5)/2 = 13.75 degrees. This point, located at TDC, is considered optimal. In our example, the overlap point moved 1.5 degrees after TDC. You can check the pie chart of the valve timing and compare the result:

On my car, the mark, with new sprockets and chain, turned out to be shifted forward by 5 (!) degrees. This is where the tractor came from. Perhaps VAZ specifically places this mark with an offset in order to increase the torque at the bottom, or maybe during assembly they use sprockets from Lada cars. In NIV, the block is slightly higher, which is why the mark shifts. Don't know. To correct the situation, a split (adjustable) sprocket was purchased and installed:

With its help, you can smoothly adjust the position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft + - 1 tooth.

If we set it so that the overlap point does not reach TDC, we get earlier opening of the intake, an increase in power at high speeds and a drop in traction at low speeds, and vice versa, the overlap point after TDC - we have tractor traction at low speeds, and stupidity at high speeds. Exact recommendations like “how many degrees should I turn?” no one will give it to you. It all depends on the condition of the engine and personal feelings. However, you should not go more than half a tooth away from the point of zero overlap. It must be remembered that at large angles the pistons may collide with the valves. I made it so that the overlap point was shifted by 2.5 degrees before TDC, I got a good pick-up after 3000 rpm, and at low speeds the thrust remained almost unchanged. After all the manipulations, it is necessary to re-set the ignition timing, and it may be necessary to adjust the idle speed.

Source

How to replace the chain tensioner on a VAZ 21213-VAZ 2131

Cars of the Niva family are very old models, in my opinion the very first cars went back to 1977 if memory serves, but these are new times and the car is still being produced and refined, so here are the chain tensioners that AvtoVAZ installed on its cars in Depending on the year of production, they may differ from each other, so for example, somewhere before 2000 or even higher, these cars of the Niva family came with the most common spring chain tensioners, these tensioners are very easy to remove, but one of their drawbacks (Or maybe an advantage) is the fact that they do not tension themselves, that is, from time to time you have to tighten them yourself, which is very inconvenient, but this is for someone, because it only takes 1-2 minutes to tighten the chain tensioner!

Now let’s look at a new type of tensioner that came on cars that were produced much later, so to speak, during Russia and not during the USSR, and so in new times, the so-called hydraulic chain tensioner was installed on this family of cars, its whole advantage is that you won’t need to constantly tighten it, that is, it was installed at the factory, and you, as they say, forgot about it, but it’s not so simple, if this tensioner suddenly jams or something else happens to it, then you will have to change it to a new one , and today you will learn how to replace this type of chain tensioner in this article. (By the way, you can see what a hydraulic chain tensioner looks like in the photo below)

By the way, if you have a regular tensioner of an old model, but it looks like it is shown in the photo, then read more about how to replace this unit in the article entitled

Removing the chain tensioner

1) At the very beginning of the operation, use a wrench to unscrew the tube that is connected to the hydraulic chain tensioner itself, and after this tube is unscrewed, disconnect it and move it aside.

2) Then, using a wrench or a socket with a universal joint (If it is difficult to get to), unscrew the two nuts that secure the hydraulic tensioner to the car engine (One of the nuts is not visible in the photo, but when you look at this tensioner on the car, then you will immediately understand where the second nut is, since it is located nearby) and then carefully remove it from the hole in which it is located.

Installing a new

Installing a new tensioner occurs in the reverse order of removal, and by the way, after installation, close the hood and sit behind the wheel of your car, then try to start the car and if that chain rattle disappears, then you did everything correctly and that’s why the chain rattled the tensioner itself.

Checking the tensioner for wear

  1. If you have removed your old tensioner and think that it is in working order and there is no point in changing it, then first rinse this tensioner in a container filled with gasoline (Rinse the tensioner at your discretion, just if all the dirt comes away from it, then it may even improve its performance like this how small particles of dirt will not interfere with the movement of the plunger itself, but more on that a little later), and after washing, thoroughly dry this tensioner or simply blow it out with compressed air.
  2. After washing and drying it, let's look at what it consists of, namely the plunger itself, which is also indicated under the number 1, and the tensioner housing, which is indicated under the number 2.
  3. Now, after studying this material, let's move on to checking, firstly, inspect the tensioner plunger itself; in no case should there be any kind of defects on its surface, such as, for example, scuffs, deep scratches, etc.
  4. Then inspect the body itself; there should also be no nicks, dents, etc. on its surface.
  5. And finally, perform another fairly simple check, namely, grab the tensioner plunger itself with your hand and then try to move it; if the plunger sticks in any place, then replace the tensioner with a new one.

Build process

  1. The front cylinder head cover is installed and a layer of sealant is applied.
  2. The bolts are tightened.
  3. The air filter is installed, sealant is applied and the pan is screwed on.

The fitting is unscrewed to bleed air from the block before filling with coolant. Pour liquid into the radiator. After it leaks out of the fitting, the lamb is screwed into place. Filling the engine oil. The hose and crankcase ventilation tube are connected to the fittings, and the copper wires are connected to the ignition coils.

The tips of the high-voltage wires are connected to the spark plugs. It is possible that after unscrewing the spark plugs, the remaining water in the wells penetrates the cylinders. Using a long knitting needle and a clean rag, it is easy to remove moisture from them.

Chevrolet Niva repair prices

Cost of maintenance work

JobPrice
Changing the oil and filter in the engine (internal combustion engine)500
Replacing the air filter300
Replacing the cabin filter500
Replacing the fuel filter500
Changing the transmission oil2300
Changing the oil in the gearbox (manual transmission, MTA, robot, isitronic)500
Changing the oil in the front axle gearbox500
Changing the oil in the transfer case (pk)500
Changing the oil in the rear axle gearbox500
Replacing steering fluid500
Replacing hydraulic fluid in the control unit of the robotic box1200
Replacing brake fluid300
Cleaning fuel injectors on the engine, without removing the injectors1400
Replacing the drive belt600
Replacing the timing belt (timing belt)4300
Replacing power steering fluid400
Flushing the throttle valve1400
Coolant replacement700
Replacing brake hydraulic fluid300
Replacing transmission fluid600
Changing engine oil and filter with flushing700
Topping up technical fluid50
Replacing the timing belt of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine6800
Replacing the diesel engine fuel filter1000
Handbrake adjustment700
Replacing the timing chain of a diesel engine on a removed internal combustion engine4800
Replacing the timing chain on a removed internal combustion engine4800

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Suspension repair prices

JobPrice
Replacement of trailing arm c/blocks800
Replacing upper s/blocks (one side) 700
Replacement of lower s/blocks (one side) 800
Replacing rear stabilizer bushings500
Replacing front stabilizer bushings1000
Car chassis diagnostics800
Control inspection450
Wheel s/o100
Replacing rear shock absorber1000
Replacing the front shock absorber1500
Replacing the steering knuckle1500
Replacement of rear wheel hub bearing1500
Replacing the front wheel hub bearing1500
Wheel Bearing Adjustment200
Replacing the front suspension spring1500
Replacement of rear suspension spring1500
Replacing the rear c/o lever1000
Replacing the front wishbone1000
Replacing lever c/blocks (lever removed)800
Replacing upper s/blocks (lever removed) 800
Replacing the rear suspension shock absorber500
Replacing the rear suspension spring1000
Replacing the silent block of the rear axle beam suspension2000
Replacing the rear wheel hub1000
Replacing the rear wheel hub bearing1200
Adjusting the rear wheel hub bearing200
Replacement of rear suspension stabilizer bushings700
Replacing the rear suspension stabilizer bar500
Replacing the rear suspension arm600
Replacement of rear suspension axle tie rods2200
Replacing the rear suspension beam4500
Replacing the rear axle suspension spring2700
Strengthening the rear axle suspension spring2700
Replacing the silent block of the rear suspension arm500
Replacing the rear suspension trailing arm600
Replacing the rear suspension wishbone1000

Brake system repair prices

JobPrice
Replacing the brake hose300
Replacing the brake pipe300
Replacing the master brake cylinder1000
Replacing brake fluid400
Bleeding the brake system, removing air400
Replacing front brake pads, disc brakes600
Replacing front brake pads, drum brakes1000
Replacing the front brake wheel cylinder1000
Replacing the rear brake wheel cylinder1000
Replacing the front brake caliper1200
Replacing the rear brake caliper1200
Front brake service200
Rear brake service200
Replacing hand brake pads1200
Maintenance of the hand brake mechanism300
Replacing the handbrake cable500
Adjusting the handbrake (handbrake) drive500
Replacing front brake discs700
Replacing rear brake discs1000
Replacing brake drums1000
Replacing the anti-lock braking system (ABS) brake unit1500
Replacing the brake force regulator300

Steering repair prices

JobPrice
Replacing the tie rod end500
Replacing the steering rod700
Replacing the steering rack2300
Replacing the hydraulic booster (power steering)1000
Adjusting the toe of the front axle wheels1500
Rear axle wheel toe adjustment300
Replacing the power steering high pressure hose1700
Repair of power steering high pressure hose1500
Replacing the power steering pump (Hydraulic Power Steering) 500 to1300
Injection of steering linkage joints at a point70
Changing power steering oil with flushing1400
Replacing the power steering filter800
Replacing the steering gear1700
Replacing the swing arm1000
Replacing the steering linkage damper700
Replacing the steering column2300
Replacing the steering column propeller shaft1600
Replacing the longitudinal linkage of the steering linkage700
Replacing the steering linkage tie rod700

Electrical repair cost

JobPrice
Generator replacement1200
Starter replacement2300
Generator repair700
Starter repair700
Replacing the generator diode bridge500
Replacing the starter relay500
Replacing the starter bendix500
Replacement of high-voltage wires300
Replacing spark plugs300
Replacing the ignition coil300
Replacing the ignition coil module600
Replacing the stove rheostat2300
Replacing the electric heater fan motor1000
Replacing the windshield wiper motor1000
Replacing the electronic control unit (ECU)600
Replacing the power window button module600
Replacing the air conditioner heater control unit1000
Replacement of the engine control unit (engine computer)600
Replacing the engine compartment fuse module1000
Replacing the interior fuse module1000
Replacing the trunk fuse module1000
Replacing the comfort control unit600
Replacing the central locking control module600
Replacing the electric motor of the engine radiator cooling fan1400
Replacing the electric motor of the air conditioner radiator cooling fan1400
Replacing the electric window motor1000
Replacing the power cable to the generator400
Replacing the power cable to the starter600
Replacing the ground wire500
Wiring harness repair2000
Replacing the fuse50
Replacing a light bulb100
Replacing the sound signal300
Replacing the steering column slip ring1600
Replacement under steering switch900
Replacing the ignition switch contact group2300
Replacing the door lock actuator1000

Engine repair

JobPrice
Removal/installation of passenger cars10000
Removal/installation Jeep21000
Troubleshooting5500

Piston rings replacement

JobPrice
Replacing piston rings of cylinder 415000
Replacement of piston rings of 5 cylinders20000
Replacement of piston rings of 6 cylinders30000
Replacing V6 piston rings35000
Replacing V8 piston rings40000
Replacing V12 piston rings60000

Engine head repair

JobPrice
Repair of engine block head in-line cylinder head6000
Engine block head repair V-shaped engine12 000
Repair of engine block heads for jeeps in-line cylinder head6000
Troubleshooting3000
Repair of 8-valve cylinder head4000
Repair of 16-valve cylinder head5000
Repair of 20-valve cylinder head6000
Repair of 24-valve cylinder head7000

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Injection pump repair

JobPrice
Removal - installation5000

Turbine repair

JobPrice
Diagnostics500
Removal/installation5000
Removing/installing Biturbo22000

Replacing diesel caps

JobPrice
8 valves5000
12 valves6000
16 valves7000
24 valves8000

Replacing hydraulic compensators

JobPrice
8 valves4000
16 valves6000
24 valves7000

Engine diagnostics

JobPrice
Technical500
Engine diagnostics with gasoline compression measurement.800
Diagnostics with compression measurement diesel 1 cylinder300

Replacing gaskets

JobPrice
Block heads in-line engine6000
Block heads V-shaped engine (one)8000
Valve cover600
Valve cover V engine800

Replacing the timing belt on a removed engine

JobPrice
Timing belt on an in-line engine3000
Timing belt on V-shaped engine 44000
Replacing the drive belt800
Replacing the timing chain on an in-line engine4000

Repair removed engine

JobPrice
4-cylinder engine repair16000
5-cylinder engine repair20000
6-cylinder engine repair25000
V6 engine repair29000
V8 engine repair34000
V12 engine repair45000

Replacing piston rings removed engine without head

JobPrice
Replacement of piston rings 4 – cylinders9000
Replacement of piston rings of 5 cylinders11000
Replacement of piston rings of 6 cylinders12000
Replacing V6 Piston Rings14000
Replacing V8 Piston Rings18000
Replacing V12 Piston Rings22000

Replacing valve stem seals

JobPrice
Replacing valve stem seals for 8 valves4000
Replacing valve stem seals for 12 valves5000
Replacing valve stem seals for 16 valves6000
Replacing valve stem seals 24 valves7000

Replacing hydraulic compensators: 8/16/VR6

JobPrice
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 8 valves2000
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 12 valves3000
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 16 valves4000
Replacement of hydraulic compensators 24 valves5000

Work with a removed internal combustion engine

JobPrice
Replacing a timing belt with a roller in-line engine2000
Replacing a timing belt with a roller V-shaped engine5000
With/from the pallet1000
C/U intake manifold2800

General engine repair work

JobPrice
Replacing the engine - remove the engine / install the engine9700
Replacing the engine - remove the engine4800
Replacing the engine - install the engine6800
Engine repair14800
Engine overhaul9700
Replacing the cylinder head (cylinder head)4200
Replacing the cylinder head gasket (cylinder head)4200
Replacing the camshaft oil seal1000
Replacing the valve cover gasket300
Replacing valve stem seals on a removed cylinder head2200
Replacing valves2700
Replacing intake valves2300
Replacing exhaust valves2300
Replacing valve guides2700
Replacing the valve seat2700
Crimping the cylinder head (cylinder head)1000
Grinding the plane of the cylinder head (cylinder head)900
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal (kv)1000
Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal (kv)600
Replacing spark plugs for a gasoline engine600
Replacing the gas timing belt4300
Replacing the drive belt500
Replacing the engine mount (internal combustion engine)1000
Replacing the intake manifold gasket1000
Replacing the throttle valve600
Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket1000
Replacing a gasoline/diesel engine turbine2300
Flywheel replacement4700
Replacing two mass flywheels6700
Replacing the engine cooling system water pump4300
Replacing the engine cooling radiator1500
Engine diagnostics600
Replacing the engine pan gasket2300
Replacing the engine sump2300
Replacing the timing chain without removing the internal combustion engine6800
Engine sump repair1000
Replacing a diesel engine - remove / install the engine9800
Replacing a diesel engine - remove the diesel engine5800
Replacing a diesel engine - install a diesel engine7700
Replacing a diesel engine - remove / install the engine9800
Replacing the timing chain of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine11700
Replacing the timing belt of a diesel engine without removing the internal combustion engine6800
Diesel engine diagnostics1000
Repair of the cylinder head of a gasoline engine2300
Diesel engine repair19500
Repair of the cylinder head of a diesel engine4700

Repair of radiators and air conditioners

JobPrice
Replacing the air conditioner radiator1000
Replacing the interior heater radiator5700
Replacing the air conditioning compressor1500
Replacing the air conditioning compressor clutch2000
Refilling the air conditioner800
Air conditioner testing1000
Replacing the interior heater fan1000
Replacing the interior heater flap activator800
Replacing the climate control control unit800
Replacing the heater radiator hose800
Replacing the heater heater circulation valve1000
Replacing an additional heater heater pump1000

Gearbox repair prices

JobPrice
Replacing an automatic transmission (automatic transmission)6900
Replacing a manual transmission (manual transmission)4800
Replacing a robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot)6300
Replacing a variable speed transmission (CVT)6300
Repair of a manual transmission (manual transmission)2800
Repair of robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot)3700
Repair of a variator transmission (VKP)6800
Replacing the input shaft oil seal of a manual transmission (manual transmission)400
Replacing the output shaft seal of a manual transmission (manual transmission)400
Replacing the gearbox seal (automatic transmission, manual transmission, MTA, isitronic, robot)500
Replacing the transmission gasket800
Replacing the transfer gearbox (pk)4300
Replacing the transfer case oil seal (pk)500
Replacing the transfer case gasket (pk)500
Replacing the torque converter of an automatic transmission7700
Replacing the clutch of a manual transmission (manual transmission)4800
Replacing the release bearing of the gearbox (manual transmission, MTA, robot, isitronic)7300
Replacing the clutch of a robotic gearbox (mta, isitronic, robot)6800
Replacing the drive of the transfer case switching mechanism (transfer case, transfer case)1300
Replacing the rear axle drive drive shaft600
Replacing the front axle drive drive shaft600
Replacing the driveshaft cross600

Drive repair prices

JobPrice
Replacing the right front drive (CV joint)1200
Replacing the left front drive (CV joint)1200
Replacing the internal drive boot (CV joint) of the front axle1500
Replacing the external drive boot (CV joint) of the front axle1500
Replacing a front-wheel drive CV joint1500
Replacement of the main pair (gearbox assembly, differential assembly) of the front axle3300
Replacing the right front axle drive oil seal1300
Replacing the left front axle drive oil seal1300
Replacing the front axle drive engagement mechanism1500
Repair of the front axle drive engagement mechanism2300
Replacing the front axle2500
Replacing the rear axle axle bearing2300
Replacing the rear axle axle shaft1200
Replacing the rear axle axle seal1000
Replacing the right rear axle drive1000
Replacing the left rear axle drive1000
Replacing the rear axle drive boot1200
Replacement of the CV joint grenade of the rear axle drive1500
Replacing the rear axle drive oil seal1500
Replacing the rear axle gearbox3000

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Auto Bryansk Cost of painting

JobPrice
Painting the new hood on both sides4800
Used hood painting on one side2300
New front bumper painting2300
Used front bumper paint2000
New rear bumper painting2300
Used rear bumper painting2000
Painting the front right fender new2000
Front fender paint1800
Painting the front left fender new2000
New front door paint2600
Painting the front left door used2300
New front right door paint2500
Painting the rear right door used2300
New rear door paint2500
Partial painting of the rear left fender2000
The rear right wing is fully painted2800
Partial painting of the right threshold1000
Full threshold painting1800
Complete painting of the trunk lid2000
Partial painting of the trunk lid1000
Complete painting of the apron1000
Front panel painting is partial1000
Full car body painting39900
Car exterior painting29900
Local painting of one part1300
Partial painting of one part1300
Polishing car paintwork4900
Abrasive polishing of car body6800
Protective car polishing6800
Removing small chips and scratches on the car body1300

Car body repair cost

JobPrice
installation of the car on the slipway500
elimination of simple distortion of the car body3000
elimination of distortion of the car body of medium complexity6000
elimination of complex misalignment of the body of foreign cars12000
Removing the car's front bumper assembly900
installation of the car front bumper assembly700
Removing the car rear bumper assembly800
installation of the car rear bumper assembly900
rear bumper disassembly400
car rear bumper - assemble600
front bumper disassembly600
car front bumper - assemble700
car mudguard plastic removal150
installation of rear mudguards plastic250
installation of front plastic mudguards250
front car door - disassemble, assemble for painting1000
car rear door - disassemble, assemble for painting1000
front and rear doors of foreign cars - replacement with reinforcement overhaul1500
car door front, rear assembly - replacement with adjustment to the opening1500
side mirror of foreign cars without electric drive - replacement1000
side mirror of foreign cars with electric drive - replacement1000
Replacing door molding - glued600
car door molding on pistons - replacement500
car radiator grill replacement150
car body liner removal500
car body fender liner installation500
Replacing the headlight500
Replacing the taillight500
Replacing a car hood1000
Replacing a car trunk lid1000
Replacement of a car hood with adjustment to the opening1500
Replacement of a car trunk lid with fitting to the opening1600
Replacing the front removable wing850
Replacing a car roof without a sunroof assembly9000
Replacing a car roof with sunroof assembly13000
Replacing the front side member with mudguard7500
Partial replacement of the front side member with mudguard3500
Replacement of the car rear panel assembly7500
Partial replacement of the rear panel4000
Replacement of the car front panel assembly4000
Partial replacement of the front panel of the car4000
Replacement of car side threshold assembly5750
Partial replacement of car side threshold4000
Replacement of the middle pillar with part of the threshold assembly10500
Partial replacement of the car's middle pillar with part of the threshold6700
Restoring cloudy plastic headlights of foreign cars800
Restoring cloudy plastic car lights800
Abrasive polishing of car body8000
Protective polishing of car body3000
Removing and installing the car cap1000
Adjusting the position/clearances of the car hood400
Remove/install/replace hood molding/lining400
Remove/install/replace hood lock latch cable500
Replacing one hood hinge1700
Replacing two hood hinges2200
Hood noise insulation remove / install / replace400
Remove/install/replace hood seal300
Hood shock absorber one remove/install/replace200
Hood shock absorber pair remove/install/replace400
Hood hook/latch remove/install/replace400
Replacing the hood remove / install / disassemble / assemble / adjust3800
Remove/install front bumper trim1300
Front bumper reinforcement remove/install1600
Front bumper trim bracket one replacement1600
Bracket for front bumper trim, both replacement1700
Front bumper absorber one replacement1700
Front bumper absorber both replacement1700
Front fog light PTF one remove / install / replace1400
PTF front fog light, both remove/install/replace1700
Front bumper trim remove / install / disassemble / assemble / replace2800

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Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment

  • Characteristic extraneous clicks appear in the engine, which become louder as the vehicle speed increases.
  • The engine is unstable even at idle speed.
  • The car's acceleration time increases significantly because the engine does not respond well to pressing the gas pedal.
  • Acceleration occurs in jerks, during which clouds of black smoke may fly out of the exhaust pipe.
  • Valve wear accelerates many times over, and if the shafts are out of synchronization too much, the valves become deformed and their seats break.
  • Incorrect adjustment can also lead to a broken timing chain. This, in turn, can puncture the radiator, break the fan and other engine parts.
  • The engine constantly overheats, and the consumption of engine oil and antifreeze can increase significantly.

As can be seen from this article, correctly set timing marks are the key to long and uninterrupted engine operation. There is nothing complicated about this; even a novice car enthusiast can do it.

It is important to take your time, follow the above sequence of actions, and also try not to drop the sprocket lock washers into the engine sump. Because it will be very difficult to get them from there

The Chevrolet Niva from the SUV family is equipped with a chain drive in the timing mechanism. The operational properties of a chain are much greater than those of a belt drive. The chain also has better technical characteristics, which affects the transmission torque. If a loose belt causes the pulley teeth to slip, a weakened chain does not allow this to happen. But with the operation of the car, the gas distribution chain also tends to wear out, stretch, burst and become unusable, which requires its replacement

At the stage of replacing the chain, it is important to carry out the installation following the marks. This article will tell you what tags are, their purpose and how to set them on a VAZ-2123.

Adjusting the chain according to the marks.

When replacing a chain, installing a new one should be done in several stages:

  • collecting the necessary tools: screwdriver, set of keys for 8, 10 and 13. Wrench for rotating the crankshaft
  • The car is placed on a viewing hole or raised using a jack. The wheels are fixed with shoes or a stop.
  • Before starting work, you must turn off the fan and unscrew the radiator mounts. All pipes, except the air duct, remain in place; the antifreeze does not drain.
  • After this, the valve cover is dismantled. After all the fasteners have been unscrewed, you must carefully remove it, preventing dirt from getting inside.

Phase adjustment in case of mismatch

If the notches do not match, work continues:

  • The “whiskers” of the lock washer are bent. The fixing bolt is unscrewed using a key set to “13”, and the position of the camshaft sprocket is loosened.
  • The first gear on the gearbox is engaged, allowing you to avoid spinning when unscrewing the crankshaft gear bolt.
  • The fastener is removed with a lock washer. To prevent the bolts from falling into the engine sump, use a deep-head wrench or unscrew the bolt by hand.
  • Remove the chain tensioner using a screwdriver. It should be replaced if it is stretched or strained, during scheduled maintenance, after 60-80 thousand kilometers.

Valve train chain

If during engine operation there is a ringing sound that resembles the operation of a diesel engine, then most likely the Niva Chevrolet timing chain needs to be replaced.

Replacement

If you do not replace it in time, it may break while driving. To replace, do the following:

  1. Installing the car in the pit
  2. The motor protection with boot is dismantled
  3. We raise the handbrake; it is advisable to place special supports under the wheels
  4. Drain the antifreeze and remove the radiator and fan
  5. Carefully disconnect the accelerator cable going to the air filter from the valve covers and pipes
  6. We remove the crankshaft sensor, loosen the bolts that secure the generator
  7. Move the generator aside and remove the belt.
  8. We unscrew several bolts that secure the water pump, and then remove it
  9. We dismantle the tension and bypass roller of the belt
  10. Remove all interfering pipes
  11. Cover the cylinder head to prevent debris from getting into it.
  12. After unscrewing the mounting bolts, remove the camshaft gear
  13. Remove the oil pipe along with the hydraulic tensioner
  14. We remove the chain and all gears of the oil pump, crankshaft and camshaft
  15. We take a new oil seal and install it on the timing cover

Installation

When the Niva Sherole timing chain and all necessary system elements have been removed, you need to correctly install and configure the new parts, for this you need:

  1. Take the fastening bolt and install it on the shoe
  2. We check that the shoe is stationary and then tighten the bolt
  3. We install the new gears in their place so that they coincide with the existing marks
  4. We install the clamp, if for some reason it does not sit in its place, we file it

Before installing the chain, it must be lubricated with engine oil, after which it can be put in place as follows:

  1. First on the crankshaft gear
  2. After that, to the oil pump
  3. And finally on the camshaft

To ensure better operation and fixation of this mechanism, it contains special timing marks Niva Chevrolet

If they are not taken into account when installing the chain, this can lead to the gas distribution system becoming out of synchronization and increased wear of parts.

Adjustment by marks is carried out in several stages:

  1. All necessary tools are prepared
  2. The car is installed on the pit
  3. The fan is turned off and the radiator mount is unscrewed
  4. Removing the valve cover

When all the preparatory steps have been completed, the following adjustments are made:

  1. Rotate the crankshaft until the bearing and camshaft marks match. If the chain is installed correctly, the existing marks on the chain cover and crankshaft will match. If they do not coincide, we adjust the position of the phases
  2. To make this adjustment, loosen the fastening at the lock washer, then use a 13 key to remove the washer along with the camshaft sprocket
  3. We set the first gear so that the bolt that secures the crankshaft gear does not turn. Unscrew the fastening bolt and lock washer
  4. We remove the tensioner.
  5. Pull the chain towards you and remove it from the sprocket
  6. To adjust it, move it one tooth
  7. We begin to turn the crankshaft until the notches coincide
  8. Install the lock washer. We place the bolt in the place for fastening, but do not tighten it
  9. Rotate the crankshaft and check if the marks match. If they match, then the work can be considered completed

It is important that the marks match as accurately as possible, since the correctness and stability of the engine will depend on this

How is the replacement made?

If chain stretching is detected and the decision is made to replace only the hydraulic tensioner, then this is an incorrect assumption. It is necessary to replace all parts: chain, hydraulic tensioner, seals, gaskets. Replacement is done in the following sequence, using all the necessary tools:

Use a spanner wrench to unscrew the tube fitting, which has a “10” head. The tube is designed to supply oil to the hydraulic tensioner.

Having loosened the fitting, the tube is removed and moved upward so that it does not interfere with further work. The two nuts securing the device itself are also unscrewed using a “10” wrench.

The device is ready to be removed from its mounting location. We grab the protruding part with our hands and pull out the device. There is a gasket on it, which also needs to be removed to replace it with a new one.

A used device cannot be repaired and requires the installation of a new one. Before installation, it is necessary to coat the gasket with a layer of sealant to prevent oil leakage.

Replacing an old device does not require serious mental and especially physical effort. Installation of a new one is carried out in the following steps:

  1. The device is inserted into the new seat, having first checked that the structure is identical to the old tensioner.
  2. Screwed in with two fastening nuts.
  3. The tube is inserted and secured.

It is simply impossible to make a wrong replacement. After installation, the operation of the motor and the tension of the new chain are checked. An important point is to replace the timing chain in order to 100% protect the car and your health from unexpected breakdowns on the road. This article will tell you how to replace the chain.

Now the owners of the Chevrolet Niva can, without doubt and without errors, correct the existing problem with weakening the chain tension. Remember that if your car has traveled more than 100 thousand km, and there are no characteristic sounds from under the hood, then do not neglect the situation, but disassemble and check the looseness of the chain and the functionality of the tensioner. Happy renovation work!

Recently, an old friend of mine came to see me in his old Chevrolet Niva with the characteristic sound of an extended chain.

In addition to the timing kit, I had the foresight to purchase even a front cover gasket, a crankshaft oil seal and a kilo of marinated meat. I could not refuse such an offer. So, Niva Chevrolet replaced the timing chain and front crankshaft oil seal.

First, let the engine cool to an acceptable temperature. Remove the pipe by unscrewing the bolt by 10 and loosening the clamps.

Next, we unscrew the eight nuts by 10 and move aside the throttle cable and all the pipes that will interfere with us, remove the valve cover.

Remove the air conditioner belt by unscrewing the bolt 13 of the tension roller.

Then loosen three 13mm nuts and one bolt of the generator belt tension roller and remove it.

Now comes the fun part. To unscrew the pulley nut, we need a 38mm socket. Since the elongated head does not fit under a regular wrench (the radiator is in the way, but we don’t want to remove it), we use a pry bar, carefully sawed off from the hub key of some large car.

Everything fits perfectly. Unscrew the nut and remove the crankshaft pulley.

Unscrew the deflection roller.

We dismantle the reinforcing plate.

We unscrew the six nuts securing the front timing chain cover to the block and the three bolts securing it to the pan and remove it.

Set the top dead center. The key on the crankshaft should align against the mark on the block.

The mark for the camshaft sprockets is against the ebb of the camshaft housing.

Next, unscrew the oil supply pipe and two nuts 10 of the chain tensioner.

Next, unscrew the tensioner shoe, damper and remove the timing chain.

Compare the new and old timing chain. It could be worse.

New timing kit.

Reinstall the chain, guide and tensioner shoe. We tighten the chain by hand and check that the marks match.

To make it convenient for us to check the marks after installing the front timing cover, we find the factory mark on the crankshaft pulley and mark it with a white marker. This mark at TDC should be opposite the center of the crankshaft sensor.

We install the front cover, crankshaft pulley and tensioner. Let's check the marks again. We install all the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. Fill with fluids, start the engine and enjoy.

>

Useful post?

Yes

No

Why are timing chain marks set?

The engine of any passenger car has 2 shafts: camshaft and crankshaft. In most cars they are connected by a belt drive. On a Chevrolet Niva car this is a chain transmission, and a single-row chain is used there. The advantages of such a system are obvious: the chain, unlike a belt, never slips on the pulleys and lasts much longer. However, the chain can stretch over time, and the teeth on the shaft sprockets can wear out or even break. This will lead to desynchronization of the camshaft and crankshaft. Their work will not be coordinated, so the engine may fail

Therefore, when adjusting or replacing the timing chain, it is very important to align the engine shafts in accordance with the marks on the pulleys and timing case. This is not easy to do, since, firstly, the marks are located in hard-to-reach places, and secondly, they need to be set very accurately, since the chain, unlike a traditional belt, cannot be slightly tensioned if necessary

Replacement video

The gas distribution system of any engine must work correctly. If problems occur in its operation, this leads to premature wear of the motor and numerous breakdowns. To accurately adjust the timing, special marks are used, according to which the shafts in the engine are aligned. We will tell you about the correct placement of marks on a Chevrolet Niva car in this article.

Consequences of incorrect installation and adjustment

The gas distribution mechanism greatly influences the operation of the engine, so when replacing parts and setting marks, you must be careful and avoid mistakes. But if this does happen, the engine will immediately let you know about it.

If there is a serious error, the engine will not start. If the phase shift is small, the electronic engine management system compensates for this by adjusting the ignition. If the phases are shifted by half a tooth or a gear tooth, the system is not able to compensate for such a shift.

This leads to the following consequences:

  • sudden loss of traction - the car responds poorly to pressing the accelerator pedal;
  • deterioration in fuel efficiency;
  • the engine runs intermittently, even at high speeds;
  • the coolant temperature rises, causing engine overheating with all the ensuing consequences;
  • premature wear of the camshaft, burnout of valves, broken chain followed by major engine overhaul.

When does a belt need to be replaced?

  • during scheduled maintenance (if the mileage is 100 thousand km);
  • if the marks on the camshaft sprocket do not match the mark on the bearing housing identified during phase diagnostics;
  • when the pump that drives the “water pump” fails;
  • if the chain is damaged (wear, stretching or cracking), requiring urgent replacement and adjustment according to the marks.

Advice : if the engine does not pull and does not gain speed, you need to check the DPKV and timing marks and set the TDC (engine top dead center) on the flywheel. Both pulleys (inlet and outlet) are placed along the marks with the chain tensioned.

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