Generator VAZ 2112 - generator device, repair, replacement

Often, many VAZ 2110-2112 car owners are in too much of a hurry at the first generator malfunction and prefer to replace it with a new one, instead of simply finding out the cause of the breakdown and eliminating it. In this case, we will not consider repairing this device, but will only look at the procedure that must be performed to remove and install the unit.

So, to dismantle it without problems, we will need a tool such as:

1. Socket heads for 10 and 13.
2. Ratchet handles or cranks.

Before starting repairs, be sure to disconnect the car’s battery by removing the negative terminal. Otherwise, you risk getting a short circuit when disconnecting the positive wires of the generator.

Withdrawal procedure

1. First of all, remove the belt from the generator.

2. Disconnect the block from terminal “D” of the generator.

3. Remove the protective cover, unscrew the nut and disconnect the wires from terminal “B+”.

4. Unscrew the tension bolt.

5. Unscrew the top mount of the generator.

6.Remove the tension bar.

7. Unscrew the lower mount of the generator.

8. Remove the spacer bushing.

9. Remove the generator mounting bolt and remove it.

Studying the spare parts catalog

It turns out that a “long” alternator belt, or “accessory belt,” can be used in conjunction with the 21120 engine (16v 1.5). The tension in this case is provided by roller 8.

Two different drive designs

The "short belt" can be used with any 16 valve. In configurations with a short belt there is no air conditioning and power steering.

Generator part numbers

• 2110-1041020, -01 – auxiliary drive belt (before 09.2001);
• 2110-8114096-10, -13 – air conditioning drive belt (after 09.2001);
• 2110-1041056 or 2110-8114060 – tension roller;
• 2112-8114054 (“Lux”, air conditioning) or 2111-8114054 (“Normal”) – roller bracket;
• 2110-3701720, -01, -03 – alternator belt (“short” belt);
• 2112-3701010, -02, -03, -06 – generator (for any configuration).

Replacing the generator with power steering, eliminating noise

There was a very strange knocking sound from the engine, when you accelerate and let off the gas there is a knocking sound from the area of ​​the generator and the steering wheel... I struggled with this for a long time, but not very successfully, in order: - the fault was on the belt roller, well, it was a little sensitive and not everything was going well with it okay, I was looking for a roller without play for a long time, but I found it and installed it, it didn’t help with the main knock; -removing the engine and power steering belt and starting the car, the knocking noise disappeared completely, well, for a long time I sinned on the power steering pump, then I replaced it, and it seemed to be better, but after some time this knocking noise came again (((... - I thought, what if it’s a generator It’s noisy, and the voltage was low when you turn everything on to 12V. I went to remove it and look, and then it started... Removing the gene on a car with power steering is another quest... I decided to remove it through the headlight, since it’s not possible to pull the receiver out through the top, but through the bottom, the pump Power steering, removing the pump means draining the oil, and then also pumping it... so it’s easier through the headlight, especially since I also changed the headlights)))

It fits through the headlight just fine, removing the headlight is not difficult))

And so, having removed the generator, I twirled it in my hands and realized that its bearings were running out...

burnt contact, apparently he was punished well at one time)

The contact from the winding is a little burnt, a stub from it remains, the bearings are damaged, the voltage sags, so I bought a new one then)))

dynamo

Dynamo 105A when the old one had 80 Next is the most interesting thing, the secret of the ominous noise is revealed...

bottom of generator mount

and this is the top part of the generator mount

that’s the reason for the noise, a mount broken in two was knocking on another engine mount.

I’ll say right away that finding a new bracket for an engine with power steering was not easy; I never found one in Bryansk! It is attached to the same bolts as the engine mount, but in order to screw it on I had to remove the pump; I removed it directly without twisting the tubes from it, but simply lowering it to the bottom)

The bottom bolt can only be tightened by removing the power steering pump

new generator next to the old one

The new one looks impressive, it has one more winding contact, the regulator is more massive, the voltage on board is 14.2 V and does not consistently respond to the heater and low beams)))) if you turn on everything you can, these are high beams, heated mirrors, emergency lights , heater, reverse, brake light...

The result is I'm happy, there is no noise, the voltage is normal, everything is fine))

• Generator 3800
• Bracket 560

Generator VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2112

The functional purpose of a car generator is to convert engine energy into electricity. The generator starts working after starting the engine from the battery and supports the operation of the ignition system and additional energy consumers.

It is the number of sources loading the generator that affects the operating life of the unit.

How to choose a generator for a VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112

Due to the similarity of many components in the structural assemblies of the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2112 cars, most of the electrical equipment is identical, including generators. To choose the right generator, it is necessary not only to take into account the dimensions of the device, but also to determine its rated power - for the 2110-12 generation Lada, it should be indicative of at least 55 Amperes.

Brand/manufacturer	Trade article	Rated power	Approximate cost, rub.
ZiT	372.3701-02	55	4700
ZiT	372.3701-05	65	4900
BATE	9402.3701	90	6200
BATE	9402.3702	95	6500
ATE	3202.3771000	75	5700
ATE	3202.3771034	70	5500

The higher the generator power, the greater the number of energy consumers the unit can support without the risk of overheating and reduced service life. Installing an increased power generator instead of the standard equipment will allow you to connect additional equipment and accessories - heated seats, high-quality car audio, a car refrigerator, etc. However, when increasing the power of the generator, it is also necessary to take care of laying power wiring with a larger cross-section of the conductive part, as well as installing a more capacious battery.

Note! If you purchase a non-standard generator, it is important to check the compatibility of the device with your car. To do this, you need to go to the official website of the manufacturer and enter the product article number and VIN number of the vehicle into the search form. If information about the part is available in the dealer database, the unit can be considered for purchase.

Dismantling the generator on a VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112

The algorithm for dismantling the generator on a VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112 is not complicated and can be performed with one pair of hands within 40-50 minutes. To perform the procedure, you will need an inspection pit or a car lift, as well as a set of wrenches or socket heads, a set of screwdrivers and pliers. Removing the unit from its original location is carried out in the following sequence:

• First of all, we drive the car onto a pit or a lift, after which we unscrew all the battery terminals and take out the battery itself. To remove the battery, in some cases it is necessary to unscrew the bolt on the fixing clamp;
• Next, we move to the bottom of the vehicle and remove the crankcase protection to provide free access to the engine compartment;
• After removing the protection, carefully pull back and remove the drive belt, after pressing down the tensioner with a screwdriver or wrench;
• Then unscrew and remove the power wiring leading to the generator. Now you can use sockets with extensions to remove the fixing bolts holding the generator to the bracket;
• At the end of the procedure, you can remove the unit from the car. During dismantling, it is important to monitor the position of the buffer bushing - this unit may become deformed when removed.

Note! Before repairing the generator, it is important to inspect the condition of the wiring and drive belt. If there are breaks or any other damage, the components will have to be replaced - otherwise there is a high risk of a short circuit or an accident on the road.

Disassembling the generator housing to replace components

Disassembling the generator is also not difficult. As a rule, this unit is only disassembled into parts, after which the faulty part is modularly replaced - there is no need to solder or rewind the winding. To repair a generator on a Lada, you will need the set of tools described above, as well as a pair of round nose pliers that will allow you to remove the insulation without the risk of damage. The entire scope of work takes no more than 1 hour and occurs according to the following action scenario:

• After dismantling the device from the car, you need to move the unit to a workbench or table and place the back cover up. The generator cover is fixed with 4 long bolts, which must be unscrewed and the device separated into 2 parts - the rotor and the stator;
• The upper part of the unit consists of a rotor with a shaft and bearing. To check the operating condition, you should ring the rotor with a multimeter and, if necessary, replace the bearing itself;
• The lower part of the unit consists of a stator, a rectifier relay and a winding. To check, you also need to test the stator and relay with a multimeter, and, if necessary, replace the insulating material around the winding;
• At the end of the procedure, we replace all faulty modules with new parts, after which we assemble the unit. During assembly, it is important not to damage the external and internal insulation.

It is important to know! The average service life of a generator on a VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112 is 50,000 km, after which it is recommended to check the part every 3-5,000 km.

A simple method is to measure the battery voltage with the engine running - if the voltage is below 13.1 V, then the generator will soon have to be replaced.

Technical specifications

If the old generator fails, many motorists wonder which generator they should now replace the old one with.

There is no need to invent anything here. The most correct solution is to install the same generator as before, or a more powerful one.

Today, the VAZ 2110 provides for the use of three types of power supply devices:

1. Katek 5102.3771. The generator produces 80 Ampere power and its voltage is approximately 14V.
2. Katek 94.3701. This is a device with the same parameters. They are not seriously different.
3. Catek 120 amp. A generator that is more adapted to modern realities, when in addition to standard electrical equipment, motorists install many additional devices.

If you have a powerful audio system in your car, you use an electric pump powered by the car, as well as a number of other additional consumers, it is recommended to install a 120-amp unit instead of a standard 80-amp generator.

If we take into account the size of the devices, then we can distinguish between ordinary and compact ones. They have a certain difference in design.

To be specific, the differences are in the following components:

• Brackets;
• Anchor;
• Excitation wire;
• Drive pulley;
• Number of mounting bolts.

But in reality this does not play a special role. After all, the structure of all generators used for the VAZ 2110 is the same. Therefore, let's look at the circuit and structure of this unit.

Element	Functions
Rotor	He's an anchor. It is a rotating element of the generator, which creates a magnetic field due to the excitation winding located on the shaft. The field wire receives power from the slip rings. They are mounted on the same shaft. There was also room for a drive pulley, field winding wire, bearing assembly and fan impeller. There may be 1-2 last ones
Stator	This is a stationary three-phase element that includes three windings. They provide the creation of alternating current. The windings are connected to each other using a triangle or star
Frame	A lightweight non-magnetic aluminum alloy is most often used to make the generator housing. The body looks like a pair of covers connected by a bolt. The front cover is located near the drive pulley, and the rear cover is located on the side of the slip rings. Each connecting bolt must be tightened. To disassemble the housing, simply unscrew the mounting bolts.
Fasteners	The upper mounting bracket for the generator uses two bolts, while the lower bracket is predominantly mounted on one bolt. In some cases there are two. It is not recommended to modify the brackets, since the factory one performs important functions. The purpose of the brackets is to hold the generator. It is recommended to monitor the condition of the brackets as they are subject to wear and breakage
Brush unit	It consists of a pair of graphite brushes, springs that press the brushes, as well as a brush holder
Brush holder assembly and voltage wires	This design is typical for modern Katek generators. Therefore, if the regulator fails, you will have to replace the entire assembly
Rectifier block	Equipped with 6 diodes, it is responsible for converting alternating current into direct current. It is direct current that is required for the operation of all auto equipment. This element charges the battery, among other functions.
Belt drive transmission	The belt drive allows you to increase the speed at which the crankshaft rotates. If the pulley has a small diameter, then the V-belt will wear out faster. Therefore, for small driven pulleys it is recommended to use a poly-V-ribbed drive. It is most often found in modern generators

Internal organization

The presented device is relevant for all generators used on the VAZ 2110, regardless of their power - 80-120 Amperes.

Margin of safety

If we take into account the standard Katek generator, which is installed on domestic dozens, then its resource is enough for about 10 years of operation or 140 thousand kilometers.

The specified safety margin of the device can only be relied upon if it is handled properly.

Many people fear that a powerful 120 A generator can negatively affect the condition of the battery. In practice, nothing like this happens. Moreover, installing a more powerful unit is recommended if you plan to install an impressive audio system or video equipment on the car.

Generator operating principle

This unit consists of several parts:

• frame;
• rotor;
• stator;
• rectifier bridge;
• relay-regulator;
• pulley.

Thanks to the generator, the torque from the power plant is converted into electrical energy. During rotation, the rotor creates a magnetic flux, which is regulated by a relay, and the pulley carries out a belt drive. The rotor moves with the help of bearings, and when they work well, the shaft moves easily.

Another purpose of the relay regulator is to limit the output voltage in the range from 13.6 to 14.7 V. The voltage is transmitted through the commutator rings to the brushes, and the rectifier bridge is responsible for ensuring that energy is transferred in one direction.

What types of breakdowns are common?

Most often, the generator for 8 and 16 valve VAZ-2110s fails as a result of moisture and dirt. Another reason is the wear of the components of this assembly, namely the brushes.

Most often, the malfunction manifests itself as follows:

• the generator does not produce electricity;
• output current is either too high or low voltage;
• During engine operation, extraneous sounds are heard, most often a squeak or squeal.

The operation of the generator is checked using special stands or a digital voltmeter. If extraneous sounds are heard in the engine compartment area, then first of all you need to check the timing belt tension. Most often this is the reason, but after checking, remove the belt from the pulley and start the engine. The absence of noise is a reason to check the performance of the generator more carefully.

What to choose?

The choice of motorists is not limited to Katek generators. Therefore, if the old device fails, you should think about who will take its place.

There are several main options.

1. Katek. A standard, fairly reliable and very efficient generator. AvtoVAZ’s choice in its favor is due precisely to this. Plus it is a domestic manufacturer.
2. Chinese products. The attitude of motorists towards Chinese generators is quite skeptical. There are explanations for this. Compared to them, Katek is simply an ideal solution. Although in fairness, we note that you can find some pretty good Chinese-assembled options. But this is the exception rather than the rule.
3. Imported analogues. Here, first of all, you should pay attention to Bosch companies. Denso and Delphi. High build quality, impressive service life, efficient operation. They cost more than their Russian counterparts in the form of Katek, but for such a thing it makes sense to spend a little more.

Among imported devices, the following are considered good options:

• Dynamo - manufacturer Bulgaria;
• Eldix - also produced in Bulgaria;
• BATE - produced in the city of Borisov, in Belarus.

When choosing a new generator for your car, pay attention to its technical characteristics and safety margin. Then think about the manufacturer. We do not recommend looking towards China if you are doing repairs for yourself and want to achieve high quality work.

How to properly remove the generator on a VAZ-2110

If you have a power unit with 8 valves, then it is best to work from above. In the sixteen-valve version, the generator must be removed from below. To do this, first unscrew the pan. Before work, prepare several different keys. You can remove this assembly quickly if you follow the following instructions:

1. De-energize the vehicle's on-board system - to do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Find the M10 nut on the positive stud of the autogenerator and unscrew it.
3. There are wires connected to the generator on the back of the device, which must be disconnected before the next stage of disassembly.
4. Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the upper and lower nuts.
5. Unscrew the tension bolt with a 10mm wrench to loosen the belt tension and remove it.
6. Then completely remove both nuts (upper and lower) and remove the tension bar.
7. Carefully rotate the generator at a right angle and remove it from the engine compartment.

If you want to repair this unit, you should thoroughly wipe it with a rag to remove all dirt.

How to disassemble a generator

First, make two marks on the metal covers. This will help you later assemble the unit without problems.

1. Press out the metal latches and remove the plastic cover.
2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the voltage regulator mounting screws.
3. Unscrew the M10 nut. Then use a screwdriver to remove the screw and remove the capacitor.
4. To remove the pulley, clamp the generator housing in a vice. Put a 21 socket on the nut, and through the hole in the head put a 8 hexagon on it. Only after you unscrew the nut can you remove the washer and pulley.
5. Remove the four mounting screws to disassemble the generator into two parts.
6. From the back of the housing, unscrew the screws securing the stator wire and diode bridge.
7. Remove the diode bridge and the oscillator winding.
8. Press the rotor out of the cover with your fingers along with the bearing.
9. Carefully remove the bearing bushing.
10. Take a puller and remove the bearing.

Disassembling the generator itself is much more difficult than removing the entire assembly from the car. To carry out repairs, you will need to diagnose the components of this unit. First of all, pay attention to the brushes; they need to be changed if this element is visible from the holder by no more than 5 millimeters. If the bearings rotate slowly, then they are the defective element (a hum may be heard during operation). The breakdown of the starter and rotor windings can be checked with an ohmmeter; the same device determines the performance of the capacitor. If nicks, scratches or burrs appear on the slip rings, they must be carefully sanded to a shine with fine sandpaper.

How to properly maintain and repair a generator on a VAZ 2112 on your own?

In a VAZ 2112 car, the generator is designed to power electrical equipment when the engine is running. If this unit fails, full operation of the car will be impossible, so the driver may encounter certain difficulties while driving. You can read more about the principle of operation, as well as the replacement of some elements of this unit, below.

Technical characteristics and principle of operation of the generator set on the Dvenashka

First, let's look at the operating principle of the 2112 generator. One of the main design elements is the rotor, which performs the function of generating a magnetic field. This component is a shaft on which the field winding is mounted. The halves of this winding are installed in special pole parts, and the winding is supplied with current thanks to slip rings. The rotor rotates thanks to a belt drive from the drive.

Removing the Unit Cover

Another equally important component is the stator, consisting of a core and a winding. This mechanism produces alternating current that passes through the electrical network through slip rings. To supply current to the rings, the design of the unit is supplemented with special brushes. After them, according to the scheme, a rectifier unit is installed, which is used to convert the voltage that the device produces. Depending on the device model and its technical features, different winding connection diagrams can be used.

The generator unit relay is used to maintain the voltage within specified limits. This element, if necessary, changes the frequency and duration of electrical pulses. By design, a relay consists of several controllers, as well as executive components. The purpose of these components is to determine the time during which the field winding must be connected to the network. If the relay fails, an unstable voltage will be supplied to the battery.

As for the technical characteristics of the generator on the VAZ 3701010-07, the voltage limits generated in the winding are 13.2-14.7 volts. The unit itself allows you to generate current up to 80 amperes. It is important that the VAZ generator belt is tensioned properly, otherwise the operation of the device as a whole may be incorrect. If you want to check the belt tension with your own hands, then keep in mind that when there is pressure on it with a mass of about 10 kilograms, the deflection of the belt should be at least 8 mm (the author of the video is the channel In Sandro’s Garage).

Service Features

The need to repair the generator unit on a VAZ 2112 16 valves does not arise often, but in order for the unit not to have to be repaired, it must be properly maintained. In general, this unit has a fairly high margin of reliability.

What maintenance features must be observed to prevent repairs:

1. It must be remembered that the outer surfaces of the unit must always be clean.
2. When carrying out maintenance, you also need to check the quality of fastening of the unit - it must be securely fixed at the installation site.
3. It would be a good idea to check the functionality of the voltage regulator; a multimeter is used for this.
4. The same applies to belt diagnostics. As stated above, first of all you need to check its tension - the belt should not be too tight, but it should also not be loosened. In addition, diagnostics of the condition of the strap should be carried out every 10 thousand km - there should be no signs of damage, cracks, and the belt should not peel off.
5. Another point in maintenance is checking the condition of the bearings. For diagnostics, you need to remove the strap, and the rotor of the unit must be rotated by hand. If during rotation you feel a gap or even slight jamming, then the bearing devices need to be changed. The same applies to the appearance of sounds uncharacteristic of their normal operation.

Photo gallery “Main device malfunctions”

1. New and worn brushes 2. Bearings with frozen grease 3. Worn belt

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

Brush replacement procedure

Replacement of VAZ generator brushes is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, you need to release the three latches on the device’s body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
2. The cover itself can be detached and put aside. This will allow you to access the regulator.
3. There are two bolts on the regulator that secure the device - they need to be unscrewed. Then pull the regulator and remove it.
4. Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm. If their size is smaller, then you have two options - either repair it by replacing the brushes, or change the device assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron since the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. First, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and securely soldering it to the relay contacts. Or you simply change the relay, and further assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel)))LENTA).

How to change bearings yourself?

To replace the bearings, follow these steps:

1. On the dismantled generator, you need to block the rotor; to do this, use a screwdriver, then unscrew the pulley.
2. Next, by pulling the latches, you need to remove the device casing. You need to make marks on the two halves of the case, and then, using a screwdriver, you will need to remove the front cover.
3. Then you will need to knock the bearing out of its seat; to do this, you will need to place it on a more suitable object. Alternatively, you can use a 27mm socket.
4. After this, you can take a new bearing device and fill it with grease. This element should be hammered through the old one. To make the device more securely fixed at the installation site, you can use a chisel to flare the edges.
5. Now let's move on to the rear bearing. To do this, you need to place either a thick screwdriver or a thin chisel under it, and hit the top several times with a hammer, while simultaneously moving the screwdriver in the opposite direction. The device can be dismantled using an open-end wrench.

Photo report on repairs

I would like to warn you right away that in this example of my VAZ 2110, the generator is slightly clamped by the mounting bracket, since it broke off during the accident, so I cannot show you the removal procedure in all its details. But still, the main points will be shown quite clearly in the photo.

Unscrew the tensioner nut, which is shown by the arrow below:

After this, move the generator back (towards the car interior) and remove the belt from the pulleys. Now you can disconnect all power wires. One “bundle” is secured with a stud and nut, and another plug is simply fixed with a connector:

Then you can unscrew the lower nut securing the generator, first crawl under the car and remove the engine protection (if installed):

Usually the bolt fits tightly, so it can be knocked out carefully and without excessive force with the handle of a hammer:

Then from the reverse side we try to remove this very bolt to the end:

Next, unscrew the tensioner nut from top to bottom and you can carefully move the VAZ 2110 generator to the side in order to remove it later:

If you are replacing the complete device, install it in the reverse order. But please note that the generator model, if possible, should be the same as the one installed by the factory. That is, first of all, look at the applicability specifically to your car, and then at the current rating in Amperes.

As for the price of generators for VAZ 2110-2112, it may vary depending on the type and manufacturer. But if you take the KZATE model, which in most cases is installed by the factory, then the cost can be about 3,500 rubles. Although, Chinese options can be obtained at almost half the price. True, you should not chase low cost, since the service life of these parts can be quite short.

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