How to remove the starter on a VAZ 21213 Niva carburetor

Main block with fuses and relays

This block is located to the left of the steering column and is closed from below with a lid.
To get to it, you need to tighten 2 screws, then press the top edge of the cover and gradually free it from all fasteners. The block that appears will be held on a special bracket. The fuse diagram itself and the number of elements on it may vary depending on the configuration and year of manufacture.

photo of the fuse box in a Chevrolet Niva

Scheme - option 1

Scheme - option 2

• Explanation of fuses
• F1 (5 A) - license plate lamps, instrument panel lamps, indicator light on the dashboard, engine compartment lamp, additional brake light lamp, left side marker lamps.
• If any of the listed lamps do not work, check this fuse and the lamps themselves, their connectors and wiring.

F2 (7.5 A) - low beam in the left headlight. Similar to relay K4.

F3 (10 A) - high beam in the left headlight, indicator lamp for turning on the high beam headlights on the dashboard. Similar to relay K5.

F4 (10 A) - backup fuse.

F5 (30 A) - front door electric windows and their relays. If, when operating the power window, the window goes down but not up (or vice versa), check the button on the door.

When lowering and raising, the polarity and direction of rotation of the motor are different. It could also be a problem with the window lift mechanism. To get to it, you need to remove the door trim. Check that the mechanism does not bite anywhere and that the gears are intact, without broken teeth.

If there are problems, you can replace the entire power window drive with a new one.

F6 (15 A) - door lock control unit. If one or more doors stop opening, check this fuse. The issue may be in the central locking, control unit, as well as the mechanisms themselves, rods and door locks. If you have no experience, it is better to contact a car service.

F7 (20 A) - sound signal and its relay, cigarette lighter. If the horn does not work, check this fuse, the steering column contacts and the wiring; the contacts may have oxidized and the wiring may have become frayed.

Fuel system Niva 21214 injector diagram

Lada 4x4 (VAZ-21214): Engine power system

Power system: 1 — inlet pipe; 2 - fuel rail; 3 - electrical connector of the throttle unit control unit 4 - throttle unit; 5 - receiver; 6 — fuel pressure regulator; 7 — adsorber purge valve; 8 - fuel filter; 9 — ventilation tube; 10 - filling pipe; 11 — gravity valve; 12 - separator; 13 — fuel module; 14 — fuel tank; 15 - adsorber; 16 — nozzles

Fuel is supplied from a tank located in a recess in the floor under the rear seat. The tank is bolted to the body and closed on top with a metal lid. The fuel tank consists of two stamped steel parts welded together.

The filling pipe is connected to the tank by two gas-resistant rubber hoses: a thick hose is used to fill fuel, a thin hose is used to remove air displaced from the tank when it is filled with fuel. The hoses are secured with clamps.

The filler plug has built-in inlet and outlet valves that prevent deformation of the tank when the pressure inside it changes.

The fuel module, including the fuel pump and fuel level sensor, is installed

in the fuel tank. For rough fuel cleaning, there is a strainer at the module inlet that protects the bearing units and pump manifold from abrasive particles contained in the fuel.

To access the fuel module under the rear seat cushion, you must remove the fuel tank cover.

The fuel level in the tank is determined using a fuel level indicator sensor mounted on the fuel module.

The fuel pump is electric, submersible, vortex type.

The pump is turned on using a relay at the command of the engine management system controller (with the ignition on). From the fuel pump, through hoses and pipelines, fuel is supplied under pressure through a fuel filter located under the bottom of the vehicle to the fuel rail. Fuel passes through the pump while it is running, lubricating and cooling it.

The pump creates a pressure in the system that exceeds the operating pressure in the fuel rail. The fine fuel filter is non-separable, with a paper filter element.

There is an arrow on the filter housing that must coincide with the direction of fuel movement. The fuel rail is a hollow bar and serves to supply fuel to the injectors.

Fuel rail included: 1 — fuel pressure regulator; 2 — nozzles; 3 - fuel rail

The fuel rail is secured with two screws to the intake pipe.

On the ramp there is a fitting for monitoring the fuel pressure and a pressure regulator. The latter changes the pressure in the fuel rail in the range from 3.0 to 3.2 bar (3.0-3.2 kgf/cm2) depending on the vacuum in the receiver, maintaining a constant pressure difference between them. This is necessary for accurate dosing of fuel by injectors.

Fuel under pressure is supplied to the internal cavity of the ramp, and from there through the nozzles into the intake pipe.

The injector is an electromagnetic valve that allows fuel to pass through when voltage is applied to it and closes under the action of a return spring when there is no power. At the injector outlet there is a sprayer through which fuel is injected into the intake channels. The controller controls the operation of the injectors.

The injectors are sealed in the ramp and inlet pipe with rubber rings and fixed to the ramp with metal clips. If the winding is broken or shorted, the injector should be replaced. If the injectors are clogged, they can be washed without dismantling at a special service station.

The fuel pressure regulator is a fuel valve connected to a spring-loaded diaphragm. The valve is closed under the action of the spring. The diaphragm divides the regulator cavity into two isolated chambers - “fuel” and “air”: the “air” is connected by a vacuum hose to the receiver, and the “fuel” is connected directly to the ramp cavity. When the engine is running, the vacuum, overcoming the resistance of the spring, tends to retract the diaphragm and open the valve. On the other hand, fuel presses on the diaphragm, also compressing the spring. As a result, the valve opens, allowing some fuel to flow through the drain line back into the tank. When you press the gas pedal, the throttle assembly opens the valve, the vacuum behind the throttle valve decreases, the diaphragm, under the action of a spring, closes the valve and the fuel pressure increases. If the throttle valve is closed, the vacuum behind it is maximum, the diaphragm pulls the valve harder - the fuel pressure decreases. Pressure drop determined by stiffness

How to remove the Niva 21214 starter in 10 minutes. The cause of the malfunction of the removed starter NIVA VAZ 21214

Published on August 29, 2016

How to check the VAZ 2114 starter: step-by-step guide
Preparation for quickly removing the starter in extreme conditions. Quickly removing the starter and eliminating the cause of a possible malfunction. How to remove the acoustic pipe from a Niva receiver Why is an acoustic pipe needed? As you noticed, the lower bolt of the starter was deliberately never screwed in again, after the first removal of the starter during the initial period of operation of the car. Also, the heat shield of the starter, whose lower mounting bolt quickly sticks when driving through mud, was not put in place. Because of this, in order to remove the screen, you have to cut off the lower attachment point or tear the screen itself. I don't want to go through this procedure a second time. The fact that there is no lower mounting bolt for the starter and a heat shield has its advantage for field drivers who often operate their vehicles, for example, in the conditions of Siberian swamps, river fords and frosts. Very often the cause of a starter malfunction is simple. For example, as in this video, or even funnier - the red wire (also shown in the video) from the solenoid relay has simply oxidized or weakened. It is enough to MOVE it and the starter will spin. You can make the starter spin if the nickels in the solenoid relay are burned by closing (carefully, with something not large in size, but massive and iron, without touching the mass of the engine body) the power wires on the solenoid relay. It's easy to do all this without a screen. And if necessary, the starter can be easily removed. It happens, for example, that the starter breaks down, and the car is parked at the entrance, and it’s -30 outside! Yes, even in the summer! You still need to remove the starter. Negotiate with your neighbor about a garage? Or take it to service? But you can remove it EASILY AND QUICKLY yourself, right at the entrance. Buy a new starter or solenoid relay from your local store. And an hour later the car drove off. And if the car is parked in a puddle or mud, then crawl under the car and turn the bottom bolt? In short, there are many life situations where the absence of a bolt and a heat shield will greatly simplify your life. The author of the video does not pretend that others will perceive his opinion and his proposed method of solving the problem as the only correct one. Solve this for yourself. The author simply suggested the option: “How to remove the Niva 21214 starter in 10 minutes and determine the cause of the malfunction of the removed Niva 21214 starter.” There will also be solutions to problems encountered in the Niva on the channel. If you are interested, subscribe.

It's better to put up protection. Otherwise, in the heat, the starter will overheat and catch the wedge. 

For + Stanislav G. I don’t argue. But according to my experience of operating several fields, in the difficult mountain conditions of Altai in the summer, in the hottest months. Constantly reduced, etc. And from morning to evening we move through the mountains and swamps. All this summer, having come on vacation from Siberia on a field, I exploited a field in the Krasnodar region, stood in traffic jams in the heat for 2-3 hours, getting to the sea and from the sea back to friends in Krasnodar. The engine was not turned off. And so the whole vacation. So in the Krasnodar region, in the heat and in traffic jams, without a screen on the starter, there have been no problems yet. I have been using Niva for 25 years in both Siberian frosts and heat. The starter never caught a wedge. The statistics of my use so far are as follows: the absence of a screen did not affect the operation of the starter. The downside may be this: without a screen, the lubricant inside the starter dries out faster. But usually the starter fails due to something other than dry lubricant. In some fields, starters worked for 5-10 years without problems, without a screen. Then the car was sold. It is difficult to judge further statistics. I initially received all the Nivas (mostly) with good mileage. In addition to the first one bought back in the USSR and another one, which he himself drove from Tolyatti to Siberia. Again, I don't insist. Decide for yourself. 

It's a bullshit - remove it from a new field in 10 minutes, plus take out the protection from there. 

please remove how to change cardan crosspieces

All the videos are very informative, it’s a pity that the video didn’t have the paint on this screen, I had a problem with the paint on removing this screen, which unfortunately didn’t work out, but I managed to screw everything up by touch.

Andrey, you are a sweetheart in nature, respect to you, I watched your video and fixed my horse myself. Handsome, everything is intelligible and understandable, I’m a beginner driver, your videos have helped me more than once, Like 

There would be more videos about electricians in the field

Starter on Niva Chevrolet

VAZ 2107 starter: device, fault diagnosis, repair and replacement

It happens that the car starts intermittently or does not start at all. One of the common reasons for this may be a faulty starter on a Chevrolet Niva. To accurately understand whether there is a problem or not, you need to dismantle it and carry out diagnostics.

This part is a direct current electric motor and is activated by a permanent magnet combined with a planetary gearbox and relay. Before dismantling, it is advisable to understand whether this is the reason why the power unit does not want to start. This can be understood both by its appearance by conducting diagnostics and by replacing the battery with a new one.

Diagnostics

1. All connections between the battery and the starter should be checked, as if there is poor contact there may not be enough power to crank the crankshaft. This problem can be solved by cleaning the contacts.
2. It is necessary to check the battery, and if it is faulty, replace it

Replacement

If you are wondering how to remove the starter on a Chevrolet Niva, then you will find the answer to this question below:

1. First of all, to prevent a short circuit, disconnect the battery
2. The crankcase has a protection that needs to be removed
3. Unscrew several bolts that secure the starter.
4. Removing thermal protection
5. Pull the part to be replaced towards you and disconnect the wires from it
6. We clean the power wires since they could be the cause of unstable operation

When the part has been removed, you can diagnose it and try to repair it.

If you decide to try to make repairs, first of all pay attention to the planetary mechanism; you can understand the condition of the parts of this unit by disassembling it; just unscrew a few bolts. Most craftsmen claim that this mechanism cannot be repaired and in case of breakdown it is better to immediately replace it with a new one.

Most craftsmen claim that this mechanism cannot be repaired and in case of breakdown it is better to immediately replace it with a new one.

Retractor

To ensure that the starter does not experience additional loads, a special Niva Chevrolet starter relay is installed, it is also called a solenoid relay, consisting of:

• Two windings
• Magnet
• Anchors
• Springs

When power begins to flow, the armature, under the influence of an electromagnetic field, begins to compress the spring, which leads to the rotation of the bendix. When the engine starts, the power is turned off and the spring relaxes.

Malfunctions

• Burnout or oxidation of contacts
• The winding is damaged
• The armature with the spring wears out
• The hull is destroyed

It consists of a solid body, so if it breaks, it is impractical to repair it.

You can understand that replacement is required by the following signs:

• Bendix does not return when starting the engine, and a whirring sound can be heard under the hood
• When the starter is working, the power unit does not work
• When turning the ignition key, clicks are heard, but the element itself does not rotate.

Check and replacement

To check, just take a screwdriver and close its contacts, which are located on the back of the device. When the circuit is closed, the starter should work, but if it remains stationary and only a click is heard, then it should be replaced.

In order to replace the starter relay on a Chevrolet Niva, you need to do the following:

1. Unscrew the three bolts that secure the part
2. Removing the relay
3. Installing a new part
4. Checking the work

If everything is done correctly it should start

If you have an idea of ​​how everything works and you are sure that the cause of the malfunction is in the retractor, then you can safely proceed to replacement and repair. If there are any doubts, then you need to check it on a stand under load, since it happens that without load it works perfectly, but under load it stops working.

Starter on Niva Chevrolet Link to main publication

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So I immediately unscrewed it. Now you can unscrew the starter. The bottom bolt is fairly easily accessible from below. I unscrewed it with a small ratchet. I unscrewed the remaining two bolts from above. This is what the starter looks like from above. Here I already used a spanner.

The key part of the key is slightly bent, otherwise it would be impossible to get to these bolts. The middle bolt is also more or less accessible.

The power wires that are connected can be cleaned; perhaps the reason that the engine starts unstably lies in poor contact. After it has been removed, you can carry out diagnostics and subsequent repairs. How to make repairs yourself. When the starter is removed, you can try to make repairs yourself or take it to a specialized service center.

If you have experience and an idea of ​​how everything works and you, for example, are sure that the cause of the breakdown, for example, lies in a malfunction of the solenoid relay, then you can start repairing it yourself. Before dismantling the starter, it must be removed completely or, by unscrewing the lower mounting bolt, moved to the side. The starter mount consists of three bolts, by unscrewing which you can remove the Chevrolet Niva starter from the bottom of the engine.

The lower fastening bolt is unscrewed from below using a ratchet wrench. Access to it is simple and does not require much effort.

The remaining two bolts are unscrewed from above using spanners with a bent head or heads with an extension with a cardan. The most problematic is the top bolt, which requires a special approach with a curved key. The key fits onto it quite easily, but to unscrew it the lever travel is small, so you have to turn it for quite a long time.

After unscrewing all three fastening nuts, it is necessary to dismantle or bend its thermal protection. From the side of the box, it will be enough to simply bend the tin, and from the bottom you will need to unscrew the bolt securing it. However, you won’t be able to see it, since it is covered with a heat-protective casing on top. It is also impossible to see it from below, since the crankcase protection covers it there.

Possible malfunctions if the starter does not turn

VAZ car starter

Have you encountered the problem of starting the engine when the starter does not turn? What was the cause of your problem? Let us remind you that other instructions for repair and operation of Lada 4×4 can be found in this category or by content.

Keywords: 4x4 starter | 4x4 engine | 4x4 ignition system | 4x4 power system | ECM 4x4

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Do-it-yourself VAZ 21213 starter repair video

05/28/2018 admin Comments No comments

The Niva 21213 and 21214 cars have a starter with mixed-type excitation, with an electromagnetic-type traction relay and two independent windings. Four poles are fixed in the housing, one of which is connected in parallel, and the rest in series. The casing and cover are tightened using a pair of bolts. Inside there is an armature with a collector (the latter is of the end type). The armature rotates on metal-ceramic bushings pressed into the covers.

Despite the apparent design complexity, starter repair is accessible even to beginners. The main thing is to have the necessary tools on hand, diagnose the problem in a timely manner and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Below we will look at what starter malfunctions exist and how to fix the problems.

During operation, the following problems are possible: 1. After turning the key in the ignition switch, the Niva car does not start, the starter does not turn. Causes of the problem:

In the cases described above, the faulty element is replaced or repaired, and the contacts are cleaned.

2. When the key is turned in the ignition switch, the relay works, but the starter does not turn (hot or cold). Causes:

• The battery is discharged or damaged.
• The fastening of the lugs of the wire connecting the engine with the body part has been loosened.
• The “plus” and (or) “minus” on the power source is oxidized, poor traction.
• The commutator was burnt and the brushes were worn out.
• The positive terminal of the brush holder was at ground.
• There is a break in the armature and (or) stator windings.

How to remove the heat shield without removing the starter?

How to remove the heat shield without removing the starter?

Post by Niva867 » 08 Jun 2012, 16:52

There is a problem. You need to get to the wires to the starter, remove them, and clean the contacts in order for it to start. I don't need to remove the starter at all, I just need to remove the heat shield. The heat shield is secured with 3 bolts, 2 at the top, 1 at the bottom. I unscrewed them. But the heat shield cannot be pulled out. I tried it in front, and back, and up and down. Then he turned it around and went to drink beer.

Post by Anton » Jun 08, 2012, 04:57 pm

Re: How to remove the heat shield without removing the starter?

Post by Niva867 » 08 Jun 2012, 20:18

Captain

If you move the shield forward, it will rest against the hose. (the size of the hose is the same as from the expansion tank to the radiator) Does this hose need to be removed?

Re: How to remove the heat shield without removing the starter?

Post by Captain » 09 Jun 2012, 02:32

Re: How to remove the heat shield without removing the starter?

Post by Niva867 » June 14, 2012, 07:07 pm

Why didn’t anyone tell me that the battery needs to be turned off? There was a firestorm there today.

In short, I removed the starter, the bottom bolt was the easiest, the middle one the most difficult. He unplugged it and pulled it out. Then, using pliers, I bent and broke the screen, took it out and threw it away.

Now if something happens to the starter, it will be easy to loosen the wires!

Possible breakdowns and malfunctions

It is worth thinking about replacing the starter if the car owner notices that:

• The plastic on the plastic cover of the relay began to melt; the power contacts easily turn inside the cover.
• Relay coils are damaged.
• When the control wire was removed, the power contacts were not turned off or were turned on in a free order, which resulted in breakage of the spring. Since most solenoid relays cannot be disassembled, it is not possible to inspect the spring.
• The starter does not start spinning the first time, it jams.
• The power contacts are burnt. The voltage at the contacts of the solenoid relay is less than 0.5 Volts.

If severe external defects appear, you cannot do without purchasing a new starter.

Specific problems and methods for solving them

If it is difficult to turn on the VAZ 21214 engine, there is a possibility that the problem lies in the starter. The most common breakdown is that the starter may not turn, even when the ignition is started. Note that the starter relay is located very close to the ignition relay, under the additional. fuse block.

Let's get acquainted with the typical malfunctions of the Niva starter:

Breakdown Checking and diagnostics How to get rid of the problem The starter solenoid relay is inoperative You cannot hear a click under the hood when you turn the key. If you close the circuit with a handy tool, the starter begins to turn. The starter does not turn when the engine is warm (hot). Complete replacement of the part (retractor relay). The battery is low. Despite the click, the starter does not move. When consumers are turned on, the voltage at the battery terminals does not exceed 12V. Replace/charge the battery. The starter armature winding is damaged and a short circuit has occurred. To check the serviceability of the mechanism, use an ohmmeter

Also pay attention to places where the insulation has changed color. Darkening indicates problems. Complete replacement of components (starter). The battery terminals are oxidized and poorly connected. Even though the starter clicks, it does not turn over.

If you turn it on, the voltage at the starter/battery terminals varies greatly. The contact connections must be thoroughly cleaned, coated with Vaseline or other lubricant, and then tightened tightly. The ground contact is broken, the relay contacts are oxidized. The starter does not turn even after a click. The car won't start. For diagnostics, it is necessary to measure the resistance in the circuit, as well as the performance of the relay as a whole. 1) Completely replace the solenoid relay with a new one. 2) Clean the contacts well, lubricate them with a protective compound and tighten tightly. Flywheel ring teeth/drive gear are damaged. It is enough to conduct a visual inspection of the components to notice a malfunction. Flywheel replacement, starter replacement or repair. The freewheel slips. The starter continues to move, but the flywheel remains in place. Complete replacement of starter/clutch. Rotating the ring gear on the flywheel. The starter turns, but the flywheel/crankshaft does not. The clutch housing makes unnatural sounds. Buying a new flywheel and replacing it completely. The starter commutator is burnt, the brushes are very worn/stuck. Remove the starter and make sure how tightly the commutator is pressed against the brushes. Determine commutator wear and remaining brush height. If the commutator is worn out as much as possible, the starter will have to be replaced. The damage is minor - just have it repaired or go to a salon. The ignition contacts (50 and 30) cannot close and the solenoid relay wiring is inoperative. The relay does not operate when the key is turned. The car owner must measure the voltage at the relay control contact. Replacing the ignition switch, cleaning contacts. Attachments/engine jams. Visual check of the coolant pump, as well as the crankshaft and power steering pump. If problems are detected, the attachments/engine itself will need to be repaired.

What original or analogue can I supply?

If the starter does not turn, you can simply replace it. Typically, in a store, the buyer has a choice between two options:

• original;
• analogue

They differ not only in their quality, but also in their durability. The easiest way to study visual differences is in the photo. Original starter:

But the cost of the original starter is usually at least 3.5 thousand rubles. That’s why many people opt for analogues. There are many other manufacturers on the Russian market that are not certified by AvtoVAZ. If possible, you should choose well-established brands. The optimal solution would be:

It is important to remember: all starters have different resources and may differ in size. It is advisable to arm yourself with a ruler and tape measure before going to the store. This will allow you to avoid purchasing a device that is not suitable in size. Some manufacturers produce equipment that can be installed on various vehicle models. The price depends significantly on the manufacturer.

Before purchasing an analogue, you need to familiarize yourself with the brand. For example, Bosch has proven itself to be good. The equipment he produces is durable and does not cause difficulties in repair. There is a list of manufacturing companies recommended by AvtoVAZ itself. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with all the nuances and subtleties of installation in advance. This will allow you to select it at the start and install it later yourself.

Modification: heat protection casing

As a rule, the starting device on the Niva and other domestic cars begins to deteriorate like this. At first it is difficult to start the engine, then a whistle appears. When parked for a long time, the car does not start at all, and the battery quickly runs out. If the device is not diagnosed in such a situation, the problem will get worse. There are usually two reasons why the starter is not checked immediately:

• battery - if replaced, the battery will withstand a faulty starter for some time, and the engine will start properly;
• wires and terminals are cleaned of rust, which improves the current supply and plant, but also for a short time.

The real fault is hidden inside the starter. It is noteworthy that at this time the engine starts easily, as soon as it cools down. When hot, it is impossible or extremely difficult to spin the crankshaft. Hitting the front starter cover with something heavy helps, but for how long? Sooner or later, the starter is disassembled, and the cause of all troubles is determined.

One of the factors for the early failure of the starter on the VAZ-21213 is a coolant leak. Most car owners do not even notice how antifreeze drips onto the electrical contacts of the starter. This will undoubtedly cause over time:

• damage to brushes and bendix;
• interturn closure;
• oxidation of terminals and other unpleasant things.

Replacing brushes is easy. It’s good that Russian starters are easy to dismantle, disassemble and damage. The brush assembly is located directly in the rear cover of the starter along with the bushing - it is also worth checking at the same time. Bendix is ​​located under the front cover. To remove it, you must first release the adjusting and thrust washers, then pull out the restrictor ring from the drive.

Now about a small modification that will protect the starter not only from aggressive liquids, but also from overheating. We are talking about installing a heat shield - like the generator on the VAZ-21213. It is best to use plastic for these purposes - a regular, unnecessary 5-liter canister will do. A piece measuring 20x15 cm is cut out of it. Then it is cut with scissors according to a pre-designed shape and a protective cover is obtained, the side overhangs of which reliably protect the starter. Can be mounted with one bolt.

Please note the following points:

Blow the Niva casing and brush holder with air. Lubricate the underwater ring with a lubricating compound (Litol will do). Treat the shaft splines and bushings with engine oil. Proper repair of the starter is a guarantee of a smooth start of the engine both hot and cold. The main thing is to diagnose the malfunction in a timely manner and correct it correctly.

The starter on a Niva rarely has to be changed, but if you have a need for this, the instructions below will be very useful. First, it’s worth considering the necessary list of tools with which doing all this will be very simple and will not take much time.

1. Key for 13
2. Ratchet with small extension
3. Head for 10

Required Tools

In order to remove or install the starter on a VAZ 2121, you need tools, the list of which is presented in the table below. Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

Replacing the starter on a VAZ 21214

The process of replacing the starter is quite simple and can be done at home. You will need a key “13”, as well as a new replacement part:

• If you have an injection engine, remove the generator in advance. The receiver and intake pipe are located close, which can significantly hinder the removal of the starter. Accordingly, the starter can be removed through the lower part of the mechanism.
• The air filter housing must be removed. Then we get rid of the front support bracket connecting the engine mount and the intake pipe. Disconnect the starter heat shield from the engine support bracket and exhaust manifold.
• You can get rid of the upper starter mount using a 13mm wrench. To move the starter forward, you also need to remove the bolts of the lower and middle mountings. Carefully disconnect the traction relay control wire.
• We take the head “13” and get rid of the positive wire of the starter. (See photo). By unscrewing the nut, you can remove the wire and remove the starter. We move it strictly back, along the cylinder block.

We remove the starter. We take a new part and install all the elements of the mechanism in the reverse order.

If you are not confident in your abilities, we recommend contacting a car dealership.

Instructions for a complete diagnosis of the starter

The starter does not transmit torque to the crankshaft

Activation of torque on the starter without starting the engine

Broken bendix teeth or flywheel ring

This problem usually appears on cars with high mileage, especially after a recent flywheel replacement or repair of the starting mechanism. When you turn the key, the starter makes strenuous attempts to start the engine: it clicks, buzzes (sometimes with a squeal), but the internal combustion engine does not start. The problem here is the engagement.

Broken bendix teeth

The flywheel teeth (on most cars) are beveled to help the Bendix gear engage more smoothly. If there is significant wear, jamming of the traction relay fork, wedging or wear of the gear itself, it does not reach the point of reliable contact and does not fit along the relief of the teeth. Slipping leads to more wear and, since the part is not repaired, to unscheduled replacement.

If, when starting the internal combustion engine of a car, any extraneous sounds arise from the starter, this is a reason to check it as soon as possible. Otherwise, he will “remind himself” on the road.

How to remove the starter thermal cover on a Chevrolet Niva

Based on the experience of Chevrolet Niva owners, it turns out that there are two ways to dismantle the ill-fated casing - pick it out with a pry bar and dispose of it, but then the starter will be left without protection, or spend several hours dismantling it.

The starter is more expensive, so we proceed to dismantling using this technology:

1. It is imperative to de-energize the car by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery or turning off the mains switch.
2. Remove the engine protection. To do this, you need to install the car on a viewing hole or a lift.

Remove the engine protection.

Now that we have the casing in our hands, we assess the degree of damage - if the eyes are simply broken off, we can either weld them well to the casing or put them on bolts, this is more reliable.

Some recommend laying a layer of asbestos between the starter and the shield, but if there is a gap in this place, you can count on some kind of cooling. Before putting the starter protection in place, you need to make sure that you have new exhaust pipe gaskets (on the manifold side and on the muffler side) and new bolts and nuts on hand. Only now you can put everything back together in reverse order.

Option without air conditioning

In some cases (if the car does not have air conditioning), you can do without dismantling the exhaust pipe. To do this, you need to unscrew the engine mount and jack it up, resting one end of a wooden block on the exhaust manifold closer to the cylinder block, and the other on the jack.

So you can try to bring the heat shield back, besides this there is another way - dismantling the exhaust manifold. Without a collector, the shield can be easily removed.

Good luck to everyone and enjoy your travels!

Diagnostics and replacement

Among other causes of breakdown and failure, the main one is slipping of the Bendix during free movement. This occurs because a certain amount of dirt gets into the grooves and rollers. The first sign is the noise of the armature when the starter is turned on, while the crankshaft is stationary. In such a situation, repairs cannot be avoided.

In order to diagnose the Bendix itself directly, you can do this in a car. You need to do this as follows:

1. We turn on the transmission;
2. Release the brake;
3. Start the starter.

Now you need to listen. If you hear a sound that characterizes the rotation of the armature, then this is a sign that the starter bendix is ​​slipping. This means that it immediately needs to be repaired or replaced with a new bendix.

Minor Bendix repairs:

• The starter is removed from the car;
• It is immersed in a prepared container with gasoline and remains there for several hours. This is done in order to wash and clean it from dirt;
• Without removing the product from the container, rotate the clutch gear several times, this will help to better clean the grooves;
• After that, it is taken out and washed.

If, as a result of such cleaning, you have not achieved the desired result, then you will have to remove the overrunning clutch and disassemble it.

Let's look at the disassembly and repair of the Bendix step by step:

1. First of all, I advise you to disconnect the car's starter. But before this, you must disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. After this, you need to disconnect one wiring from the solenoid relay, and unscrew the other using a wrench on the starter itself. The key set to “13” is most often used;
2. Now you need to unscrew all the fasteners that hold the starter. Each machine has its own fastening system. So be prepared for the fact that when dismantling the starter you will have to dismantle some more elements along the way;
3. Already at this stage it is easy to determine the condition of the flywheel;
4. In the event that you decide to change the bendix, you need to disassemble the starter. First of all, remove the cover fasteners, and then disconnect the fastening of the winding output to the solenoid relay. You can get a washer-bracket;
5. Then you need to remove the last fasteners and disassemble the starter in half. If we find a ball inside it, it is necessary to save it;
6. Advice: if you have already disassembled the starter, look at all its components, which also sometimes fail. Outdated parts can also be replaced;
7. If necessary, remove the solenoid relay, rubber insert and washer. Then we take out all the remaining small parts;
8. Next, using a screwdriver, we remove the ears of our Bendix;
9. In order to free yourself from the stopper, you need to lower the washer down, while using the same screwdriver. It happens that instead of a washer there is a locking ring. In this case, for convenience, you can use a hammer and wrench. Place the key on the stopper and knock it down with a hammer;
10. The retaining ring that remains can be pulled off the shaft by prying it off with a small screwdriver or a special puller;
11. Now all that remains is to remove the bendix and install a new part in its place;
12. To put everything back together, you need to do all the steps in reverse order.

Please note the following points:

Blow the Niva casing and brush holder with air. Lubricate the underwater ring with a lubricating compound (Litol will do). Treat the shaft splines and bushings with engine oil. Proper repair of the starter is a guarantee of a smooth start of the engine both hot and cold. The main thing is to diagnose the malfunction in a timely manner and correct it correctly.

The starter on a Niva rarely has to be changed, but if you have a need for this, the instructions below will be very useful. First, it’s worth considering the necessary list of tools with which doing all this will be very simple and will not take much time.

1. Key for 13
2. Ratchet with small extension
3. Head for 10

So, where is the starter relay located in a Niva Chevrolet car?

Our device is located on the left side of the steering column under the instrument panel.

Since this is a one-piece mechanism, it cannot be repaired. It breaks for several reasons:

the contacts are burnt out, come out of the winding or are worn out;

parts inside this mechanism collapsed.

To understand that your relay is no longer working, you need to pay attention to the following:

if there is a buzzing noise under the hood, the engine has started, but the engine does not stop rotating;

if the starter works, but the engine does not start;

if the starter clicks and does not start.

With such signs, the part needs to be replaced, but to make sure that the failure is in the relay, you should check it first.

First, the device must be removed from the instrument panel and the contacts located on the rear wall must be closed. If you apply a piece of metal or wire, the circuit will close and the current will flow to the starter. If the starter works, then the failure is in the relay. And if the starter fires and the relay starts, then there is a breakdown in the starter.

As you can see, the starter relay is easy to find if you need to fix a malfunction.

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The classic VAZ 2131 starter is an electric motor with constant current, the power of which is 0.5-2 kW. Intake and shutdown are carried out by the starting system, which is a solenoid relay. The starter also has an overrunning clutch with a gear. The manifestation of the main defects and malfunctions of the starter unit can be heard by ear, for example: you can hear it clicking.

Before starting diagnostic and repair work, you must make sure that it is the starter that has failed. Practice shows that about 20% of complaints about the starter turn out to be. A powerful current source and a sufficiently powerful control signal are prerequisites for starting the starter.

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In gasoline engines with an injector, products are installed whose starting current is approximately 150-300 A. Starters for diesel engines must have twice the starting current.

Algorithm for checking the starter installation

• First of all, the voltage of the output terminals of the battery is checked, which should be more than V. If the readings obtained are less than normal, then the battery should be charged or replaced. If the battery is normally charged, it is necessary to measure the voltage when the ignition key is in the “Start” position. A large drop in battery voltage, over 2-2.5 V, indicates that either the battery is not capable of delivering the required current, or the starter unit is faulty. To accurately determine the faulty part, you need to install a 100% working battery and try to start the car. If starting does not occur, then the problem is in the starter.
• If there is no sharp decrease in voltage at the battery output terminals, then it is necessary to measure the voltage at the engine housing and the output terminal located on the solenoid relay. If the elements forming the power circuit are oxidized or burned, the voltage reading will be much less than the battery voltage. In this case, it is necessary to find the oxidized elements. If there are no significant voltage losses, then it is necessary to supply voltage, using a temporary conductor, the cross-section of which is more than 1-1.15 mm 2, to the solenoid relay from the “plus” of the battery. You should be careful, in some cases sparking can lead to a battery explosion. If the starter unit begins to function normally, then the fault lies in the control circuit. The absence of signs of starter life in this case indicates its malfunction.

What kind of starter can be installed

• Motorherz STB0373RB. This company is a large supplier of auto parts that has its own production. It sells hydraulic power steering pumps, turbochargers, starters, generators, steering racks, repair kits, etc. The cost of a starter unit for a VAZ 2131 is 3,940 rubles.
• ATE is a plant located in the Moscow region, engaged in the creation of electrical equipment for domestic cars. The ATE-1 starter unit is an inexpensive product that fully justifies its cost. The price of a starter for a VAZ 2131 car is 3250 rubles.
• The production of a starter for this vehicle is also carried out by the Stary Oskol Automotive Equipment Plant. The history of the enterprise goes back more than 55 years. The cost of a starter unit for a VAZ 2131 is 3,400 rubles.

In some cases, the car will not start because there is a malfunction in the power plant. The main reasons may be: thick oil that does not match the season, as well as jamming of the power unit shafts. In most cases, the starter relay fails.

The solenoid relay is replaced if:

• There is a break in the relay winding. It is worth considering that the solenoid relay is equipped with two windings: a starting winding (from the control contact to the output power terminal) and a holding winding (from the control contact to the relay body). It is also possible that an interturn short circuit may occur in the windings. The main symptom of this malfunction is the appearance of a strong smell of burnt insulation. The windings are checked on the table by applying voltage from the battery: the “negative” contact is connected to the housing and the output power terminal, and the “positive” contact to the control contact.
• If the voltage drop across the solenoid relay is more than 0.3-0.5 volts. This phenomenon indicates that the power contacts have burnt out.
• If an external inspection indicates the presence of burnt areas on the plastic cover, near the power contacts.