How to remove the starter on LADA cars with your own hands

February 28, 2017 Lada.Online 29 048 0

The starter is removed in connection with its replacement, inspection or repair. On LADA cars, the starter is installed on the clutch housing at the front in the direction of travel. Before starting work, you should disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, drive the car onto an inspection ditch (overpass) and remove the engine protection.

On all modern LADA cars (Lada XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4), removing the starter is performed in the same way. Installation is carried out in reverse order. Distinctive features of the process are presented below.

Removing the Lada Priora starter

Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.
Remove the air filter (see “Removing the air filter”).

Using the “13” head, unscrew the nut securing the tip of the wire connected to the “positive” terminal of the battery.

Remove the wire tip from the contact bolt.

Disconnect the traction relay control wire.

Using a 15mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the starter (the lower nut is not visible in the photo)…

...and remove the starter. Install the starter in reverse order.

Video on the topic “Lada Priora. Removing the starter"

How to remove, disassemble and reassemble the starter on a Priora!
how to remove the starter of a Lada Priora Lada Priora will not start - the starter does not turn Source

Lada Largus

Remove the cover (if equipped) of the electronic control unit (ECM) by releasing the two fasteners (flat-head screwdriver). Unscrew the 2 nuts (No. 1) securing the expansion tank (No. 2) (10mm wrench). Remove and move the expansion tank to the side without disconnecting the hoses.

For configurations with JR5 gearbox:

• disconnect the hinges (No. 1) of the gear selection and shift cables from the gearbox (flat-head screwdriver);
• press the clamps on both sides and disconnect the stoppers of the sheaths of the selection and shift cables from the gearbox bracket.

For configurations with JH3 gearbox:

• remove the cover (No. 1) of the gearshift drive rod joint;
• Unscrew the bolt (No. 2) securing the gear shift rod, remove the spacer sleeve and disconnect the rod (10mm wrench).

Unscrew the 3 bolts (No. 1) securing the starter (head “13”).

Raise the car and unscrew the nut (No. 2) securing the bracket (No. 4) to the intake manifold (No. 3) (head “13”). Unscrew the bolt (No. 6) securing the bracket (No. 4) to the cylinder block (No. 5) (head “17”). Remove the bracket (No. 4) that mounts the intake manifold (No. 3).

Unscrew the nut (No. 2), Figure 3-7, and disconnect the harness (No. 1), Figure 3-6, of the ignition system wires from the starter (No. 3) (head “10”).

Unscrew the nut (No. 4), Figure 3-7, securing the starter wire (No. 5) ("10" head). Disconnect the starter wire. Unscrew the nut (No. 3) securing the starter electromagnetic relay wire (No. 5) (head “8”). Remove the starter.

The process is also shown in the video:

Starter problems and their elimination

If the starter clicks but does not turn, then first of all attention should be paid to the battery. Most likely, its charge is not enough to start the car. You should also inspect the condition of the terminals. More rarely, the culprit for clicking is the traction relay.

If the starter does not turn the crankshaft of the power plant, then conditionally possible causes can be divided into mechanical and electrical. The first most often includes problems with the clutch or drive gear. If there are any malfunctions, the listed elements must be replaced.

In the electrical part, the weak point is the brushes. They are the most susceptible to wear and tear. When the remaining length of the brushes begins to be 4 mm or less, they must be replaced.

When is a starter check required?

During operation, the device may malfunction, and therefore the engine will be unable to start. The Lada Kalina car unit is characterized by the following signs of malfunction, suggesting the need for removal and diagnostics for the purpose of further repair or replacement:

• turning on the starter is accompanied by the shutdown of other devices operating at that time;
• when the device starts, reduced crankshaft speeds are observed, which is not enough to fully start the engine;
• turning the ignition key does not activate the starter;
• the unit shows signs of “viability”, but the motor flywheel does not rotate.

Next we will tell you how to remove and replace.

Article number and approximate price for the original Lada Priora starter

There are two types of starters installed on Lada Priora cars. They differ in power and mounting method. The units are not interchangeable, so it is important for the owner to know which starter is installed on his car.

The original unit with a power of 1.4 kW has article number 21100370801002. The cost of a new product is from 3600 to 4000 rubles. At car dismantling yards, spare parts can be found with a price starting from 800 rubles. However, most used starters are in very poor condition.

The Priora uses a 1.8 kW starter. The branded unit comes with catalog number 5702370815. Its price ranges from 2300 to 4100 rubles for a new product. A used spare part will cost from 900 rubles.

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If for some reason you did not return back to the site and closed the payment system tab with a message about the successful completion of the payment, please let us know - we will send you a letter indicating access to download the book.

Catalog number and cost of a good starter for Lada Priora

Car owners have a predominantly negative attitude towards original starters on Priora. This is due both to a large number of defects and to the presence of breakdowns that are not typical for starters from other manufacturers. For example, it is not uncommon for stator magnets to come off. Therefore, drivers recommend paying attention to analogues. Among them there are many decent options at an affordable price. The tables below provide a list of brands that have proven themselves in use in a car.

Table - Good analogues of the original 1.4 kW Lada Priora starter

Table - The best analogues of a branded starter with a power of 1.8 kW

Required Tools

In order to remove or install the starter on a Priora, you will need the tools from the table below.

Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

Replacing the starter on a Lada Priora can be carried out without access from the bottom. If you don’t want to remove the air filter and the wires going to the sensors, then you can dismantle and install the unit from underneath. In this case, you will need an inspection hole, overpass or lift to access the place where the starter is located.

Life hack: Lada Priora car starter - malfunctions, price

The car starter starts the engine. The Priora will not start without his participation. Without it, starting a movement is simply impossible. Sometimes the Lada Priora does not start because the fuse has blown, or the starter relay has malfunctioned; it is marked K3. Sometimes it clicks but doesn't turn. The reasons are in the details. The starter on a Priora consists of the following parts: bendex, retractor relay, armature and others - for a complete list of how many parts the starter of a Priora car contains, see the article below. It is advisable for car owners to know where this mechanism is located on a Lada Priora car - it is located immediately under the air filter. The price of the part is a starter for a Priora engine (16 valves): from 2750 to 4500 rubles. When a breakdown occurs, the device on the Priora stops turning.

There is nothing to be done - you will have to get it out and figure out the problem. Despite the rather “brute” force that the starter unit “applies” to start the engine, its structure is quite complex and consists of several fairly small parts. So, you will have to understand the relay mechanism in detail, because problems may also arise in it. Photo of the detail below.

Disassembling the starter

We disassemble the starter 2110-3708010-02 to replace the traction relay, brush holder with brushes and drive elements. The traction relay can be replaced on the car. For clarity, we show the replacement of the traction relay with the starter removed.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nut of the lower contact bolt of the traction relay and remove the wire tip from it.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the traction relay...

...and remove it. We remove the spring and the traction relay armature from the front cover.

Using the “8” wrench, unscrew the two coupling bolts.

Separate the housing and the front cover.

We remove the armature with the brush holder and the back cover from the body.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws...

...and remove the back cover. A wavy spring washer is installed in the bearing seat of the rear cover.

Remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder.

Remove the cover of the planetary gearbox.

We take out the three satellites of the planetary drive gear.

Remove the rubber plug. By pressing your finger on the end of the drive shaft...

...remove the drive assembly from the front cover.

Use two screwdrivers to open the support eye and remove the drive lever. We support the end surface of the ring gear on a wooden block. By placing the jaws of the open-end wrench “at 13” on the limit ring of the drive gear travel...

...and hitting the key with a hammer, we press the restrictive ring.

Use a screwdriver to pry up the locking ring and remove it. Remove the limiting ring of the drive gear.

Remove the overrunning clutch with the drive gear assembly.

Using a screwdriver, move the retaining ring out of the shaft groove and remove it.

Remove the ring gear of the planetary gearbox from the drive shaft.

We insert two metal plates between the bearing and the armature commutator and rest them on the jaws of a vice, striking with a hammer, through a soft metal drift into the end of the shaft, and compress the bearing. By external inspection we check the condition of the commutator and armature windings. Charring of windings is not allowed. If the collector is slightly burned, we clean its plates with fine abrasive sandpaper. If the commutator is severely burned and worn, the armature should be replaced. We remove scuffing and envelopment of the sliding bearing material on the armature shaft journal using the finest sandpaper, followed by polishing. Using an ohmmeter, we check the short circuit of the armature winding to its core. The ends of the windings must be well soldered to the lamellas. Blackening of windings and separation of varnish insulation from them is not allowed. When the brushes wear out, replace the brush holder assembly. We assemble the starter in the reverse order. We install the brush holder before installing the armature in the stator. Before installing the brush holder on the armature commutator, remove the springs of all four brushes so that the brushes slide into the guides.

To do this, bend the four spring holder clamps...

...remove the spring. After installing the brush holder on the armature commutator, install the springs and bend the clamps of the spring holders. We install the back cover and attach the brush holder to it. We apply CV joint-4 lubricant to the gears of the planetary gearbox.

We install the limiting ring of the drive gear on the locking ring using sliding pliers.

When installing the housing on the anchor, use the handle of a hammer to hold the anchor from being attracted by the permanent magnets of the stator and lower the stator onto the back cover.

The car starter starts the engine. The Priora will not start without his participation. Without it, starting a movement is simply impossible. Sometimes the Lada Priora does not start because the fuse has blown, or the starter relay has malfunctioned; it is marked K3. Sometimes it clicks but doesn't turn. The reasons are in the details. The starter on a Priora consists of the following parts: bendex, retractor relay, armature and others - for a complete list of how many parts the starter of a Priora car contains, see the article below. It is advisable for car owners to know where this mechanism is located on a Lada Priora car - it is located immediately under the air filter. The price of the part is a starter for a Priora engine (16 valves): from 2750 to 4500 rubles. When a breakdown occurs, the device on the Priora stops turning.

There is nothing to be done - you will have to get it out and figure out the problem. Despite the rather “brute” force that the starter unit “applies” to start the engine, its structure is quite complex and consists of several fairly small parts. So, you will have to understand the relay mechanism in detail, because problems may also arise in it. Photo of the detail below.

Standard starter and analogues - article number and price

Unfortunately, if the mechanism does not work, the problem can only be solved by replacing it. Neither installing new parts under the body, nor any cleaning will save the situation. The standard starter for a Priora with 16 valves goes under catalog number 2111.3708010-01, its cost is about 4,000 rubles. As analogues we can consider:

• "Baker." Article 5702370800010, costs 3,700 rubles;
• "Starvolt." Article lst0190, price - 3,200 rubles;
• Valeo. Article 438285, costs from 3,700 rubles;
• For automatic transmission, article number 219002370801000, costs from 3,900 rubles;
• "BATE". Article 51323708000, costs from 2,750 rubles;
• Gearbox – 51213708000bate, costs from 2950 rubles;
• "Kzate." Article 5702370800, costs from 3,300 rubles;
• Pramo (Eltra). Article TS12E901, price – 3,800 rubles;
• Fenox gearbox. Article 2110-3708010, price – 4,500 rubles.

Lada Priora starter: device and principle of operation

As mentioned earlier, this part can be installed on the Priora of two types: geared and gearless. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the starter, note that it is located under the engine, on the right - closer to the space under the air filter.

To ensure that the starter unit does not wear out so quickly, it has a special mechanism that disengages the gear from the crankshaft flywheel - the Priora starter retractor relay. If it were not there, the service life of the unit would be greatly reduced, or repairs would be required.

Geared

This mechanism is small in size. It turns out this way because the gearbox allows you to increase or decrease the torque. The planetary gearbox itself in the car in question is located between the armature and the bendix; it serves as a “buffer” and an intermediate part between them. Thus, it does not take up so much space in the case, under which there are:

Its main difference is that the bendix is ​​fixed on its own shaft, and it interacts with the Priora engine through a gearbox.

Gearless

A gearless starter is much larger than its counterpart, but it does the same job of receiving electrical energy from the battery and sending it to the crankshaft to start the engine. It consists of the following components:

• relay;
• an electric motor containing the traction relay cores and winding;
• brushes and holders, “brush assembly”;
• solenoid relay;
• stator;
• fork;
• contact bolts;
• anchor;
• starter mask;
• retaining ring;
• freewheel;
• front bushing and rear bushing;
• starter bendix Priora;
• gear.

The gearbox operates according to the following algorithm:

1. Power is supplied from the battery through the wiring harness.
2. The anchor is retracted.
3. The Bendix is ​​attached to the gear, “thrown out”, the pin contacts are closed, and voltage is applied to them.
4. The armature rotates, the torque is transmitted to the bendix, through it to the gear, and it is already in contact with the engine flywheel.
5. As soon as the ignition key is released, the retractor relay disconnects the bendix and the gear.

Principle of operation

It all works like this: when the engine is not running, the armature of the retractor relay is pulled out of the housing due to the action of the spring on it. The same spring holds the Bendix and gear through the fork in a position where there is no engagement.

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, the solenoid relay is first activated.

The electrical energy supplied to the coils of the solenoid relay ensures the appearance of a magnetic field inside the housing.

This field acts on the armature, and it, overcoming the force of the spring, enters the body, after which the retracting coil is turned off and ceases to create a magnetic field, but in the retracted position the armature is held by the holding coil with its magnetic field.

In this case, the armature pulls the fork, which in turn moves the bendix forward along the rotor shaft, and its gear engages with the flywheel ring.

The armature, entering the housing, pushes the starter relay rod, and, moving, closes the contact plates of the positive terminals with each other.

Electricity from the battery is supplied to the brushes of the starter motor, and its rotor begins to rotate. And since the gear has already engaged, the rotor begins to rotate the flywheel.

After starting the power plant and turning the ignition key back, the power to the holding coil stops, its magnetic field disappears and the armature comes out of the housing under the influence of a spring.

At the same time, it disengages the bendix through the fork and stops acting on the relay rod. He, in turn, moving away, opens the contact plates, and the starter is completely turned off.

Basic faults

Externally, a breakdown of the Priora starter can be recognized by the following signs:

• “turns” and at the same time starts the engine;
• does not “twist”;
• continues to “twist” after the key is released;
• creaks, clicks are heard;
• It spins, but for too long.

The reason may lie in a faulty battery, in the starter itself and fuses. The most common are those that are most likely to disable

the car – it’s worth taking a closer look.

Doesn't turn on

If the engine does not start, the problem may be:

1. discharged or broken battery;
2. no closure of contacts 50 and 30;
3. terminals or tips are oxidized;
4. interturn closure;
5. short circuit to ground;
6. open circuit “starter - traction relay”;
7. the ignition module is faulty;
8. break in the traction relay winding;
9. brush wear;
10. the anchor jams;
11. the additional relay or the control circuit connected to it is damaged.

Clicks won't start

If the starter clicks but does not turn, there may be several reasons:

1. the gear working with the bendix does not engage with the engine flywheel;
2. the bearing of the armature shaft bushings is worn out;
3. the starter mount or housing is broken;
4. gear or flywheel teeth are damaged.

Doesn't turn off

When the Priora starter unit does not turn on, the problem may lie in the following:

1. the freewheel slips;
2. the battery is discharged or broken;
3. sudden and severe voltage drop in the circuit;
4. oxidation of contacts.

Starter rotates slowly

Reasons for slow performance may include:

1. the battery is discharged or broken;
2. terminals or tips are oxidized;
3. the connection of wires from the power unit to the body is very weak;
4. the contact bolts on the traction relay are loose or oxidized;
5. brush wear;
6. a short circuit or break has occurred in the armature winding.

What does it consist of?

The starter is an electrical machine with a fairly large power consumption. When starting, it receives power from the battery and is the main consumer that can quickly discharge it.

The starter has a common design with a brush-type DC motor.

Its main parts are: stator, rotor, brush holder and brushes, bendix, solenoid relay.

All of them are involved in the operation of the starter and the failure of one element will lead to its complete stop.

Starter diagnostics to determine the cause of the malfunction

In order to determine which part of the Priora starter mechanism is failing, you need to check absolutely everything - the problem could even be with a fuse that is located far from the part. Perform diagnostics in the following order:

1. Turn off the ignition and secure the car with the handbrake. Remove the negative from the battery.
2. Remove the air filter and intake hose.
3. Disconnect the current-carrying cable from the part that is connected to the battery positive. In order to remove it, remove the upper stud of the solenoid relay with a 13 mm wrench.
4. Place neutral on the gearshift lever.
5. You will need a working car battery. If you are completely sure that the battery in your Priora is fully operational, use it. Connect the cable with alligator clips to the negative terminal of the battery, the other end to the bolt on the housing of the starter unit. Before doing this, make sure that the connection area is clean. If there is dust and dirt on it, clean it with a brush.
6. Connect the second cable with the crocodile to the positive of the battery, its second end to the positive on the back of the starter. When you connect everything there should be a click. It will mean that you did everything right. If there is no click, you need to check the ground just in case.
7. Disconnect the negative wire from the housing and connect it to the bottom screw of the solenoid relay. Connect the positive wire to the back of the relay. If a click is heard, it means the brush assembly has failed. If it doesn't work, you'll have to buy a new starter - the relay is broken.
8. The negative wire must be reconnected to the body, the positive wire to the lower screw of the relay. When connected, the starter assembly should begin to rotate and you will hear a characteristic noise. The revolutions can rise to 11 thousand per minute. If the RPM is too low and the armature turns slowly, the problem is with the brush assembly or armature.
9. If the armature does not spin at all, the problem is in the winding.
10. Finally, you need to connect the plus to the top stud of the pull-out relay and close the contacts. If you hear extraneous sounds, you should check the bendix and gearbox.

Relay test

First, it’s worth studying the location of the Priora starter relay, which is located in the starter unit in a small housing. Checking its serviceability is carried out in two stages.

• First, you need to ask a friend to turn the ignition key and listen to the engine compartment. If there is a click, then everything is fine with the part. If there is no click, or the armature does not spin with a click, you will have to move on to the next step.
• Connect the terminals coming from the battery with the terminal that is connected to the starter assembly with a screwdriver. If the unit works, then the relay is faulty.

Fuse

The Priora fuse box is located above the driver's left knee. Remove the plastic cover by first unscrewing the three fastening screws. The Priora starter fuse is K3, that is, third from the left in the first “line”.

You can check the additional block, which is located under the floor tunnel lining. In this case, the 15 Ampere fuse F1 is checked - the one on the far left; sometimes it is enough to change it, since repair of this mechanism is not always required.

Repair and replacement of Bendix starter in a car

The Bendix installed on the starter is an overrunning clutch.
Serves for silent starting of the car and extending the life of the starter, protects the starter from impacts of the teeth of the rotating flywheel, and also allows it to rotate in the same direction without speed restrictions. Interesting fact! The operating principle of Bendix is ​​used not only in the automotive industry, but also in the helicopter industry, on the gearbox for the propeller. Bicycle rear wheel hubs work on the same principle.

When a replacement is needed, is it possible to repair the starter bendix?

Most often, a breakdown occurs not in the bendix itself, but in the starter. Replacing the bendix may be necessary if the starter fires when you turn the key, but there is no engagement and the flywheel does not rotate or rotates slowly.

Problems with bendix arise due to mechanical wear of parts due to high loads, so it is better to replace the bendix completely. You can also replace a component that has failed, but this will not guarantee that the rest will serve you for a long time.

Did you know? The name “Bendix” comes from the name of its creator, designer Vincent Bendix. This device was called "Bendix drive". It has been used in the automotive industry since 1916. Since the creation of this node, the principle of operation remains the same.

How to remove the starter

If problems arise with the starter or its components, then replacement or repair will need to be performed on the starter removed from the engine. To remove the starter, do:

1. Raise the car on a lift or drive it into a “pit”, since the work will be carried out precisely from the bottom of the car.
2. Remove the terminals from the battery to avoid a short circuit when disconnecting the wiring from the starter.
3. Unscrew and remove the engine protection from the bottom of the car.
4. If you have access to the starter and there is enough space to remove it, then remove all the terminals from it. If not, then remove the elements that are interfering with your process.
5. Unscrew the starter mounting bolts.
6. Remove the starter from its seat.

Note! All the processes given above are more correct and easier to carry out from below the car

How to check the starter bendix without disassembling it

A malfunction of the starter bendix can be determined “by ear” without removal. When starting the car, the starter is activated and makes a characteristic sound, which means it is working properly. But the car does not start, there is not enough engagement, which means the bendix is ​​faulty.

Disassembling the starter, removing and replacing the bendix

Already with a previously removed starter, you can replace the bendix. To remove the bendix from the starter, you must follow the following sequence of actions in performing the work:

1. Unscrew the nut securing the brush assembly from the traction relay bolt.
2. Remove the brush assembly output contact from the relay output bolt.
3. Unscrew the coupling screws that secure the traction relay to the “mask”.
4. Remove the traction relay from the “mask” seat.
5. Unscrew the stator coupling bolts and remove the motor from the “mask”.
6. Remove the traction relay core.
7. Remove the gearbox from the starter mask.
8. Remove the fork from the bendix mount.
9. Knock the retaining ring off the gearbox shaft and remove it.
10. Remove the bendix itself directly.

Having removed the bendix from the starter, we replace the bendix with a new one, or with a repaired old one. By following these rules for disassembling the starter and replacing the Bendix, you can do this work yourself at home or in the garage.

Important! Do not forget that the work of specialists, although paid, is also qualified. The technicians at service stations will do this work not only faster, but also with better quality. Having figured out what a bendix is, where it is located and how you can determine its malfunction, you will solve the problems that have arisen with this component of the car

Having figured out what a bendix is, where it is located and how you can determine its malfunction, you will solve the problems that have arisen with this component of the car.

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Replacement

In order to replace the starter of a Priora car, prepare the 13th and 15th keys. Before removing the mechanism, be sure to remove the negative from the battery - this little procedure is very important this time. Next follow the instructions:

1. Remove the air filter, then its housing.
2. On the starter assembly, unscrew the nut that secures the terminal.
3. Remove the terminal from the contact bolt.
4. Disconnect the wire and terminal.
5. Remove the starter assembly mounting nuts (there are 2 or 3 of them, depending on the type).
6. Remove the starter assembly. Install the new one in reverse order.

Source

Guide to replacing the starter on Kalina

• First, remove the negative terminal of the battery.
• Then you need to disconnect the power wires, one of which is located under a protective rubber cap, which you need to move away:

And use a size 13 wrench to unscrew the nut that presses the starter power wire:

We take out this wire and disconnect another one, which is located nearby. You just need to pull it to the side with a little force and it will come out without difficulty.

Now we move the plugs to the side so that they do not interfere with us and, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the starter housing. Two of which are clearly visible from above, and the third is located below, you can feel it with your hand.

After the lower nut is unscrewed, you can freely remove this part by removing it from the studs:

If your Lada Kalina needs to replace the starter, then take a new spare part and install everything in the reverse order.

Replacing the starter yourself Link to main publication