A distributor is a device responsible for producing a spark at the right moment. The part is installed on internal combustion engines. When the piston is at the top point, ignition occurs.
A distributor is a breaker-distributor. Without it, not a single gasoline internal combustion engine can operate. You can find this device on cars such as:
- VAZ 2109,
- VAZ 2107,
- VAZ 2106,
- VAZ 2108.
Without a distributor, the timely formation of a spark in the engine cylinders would be impossible.
PURPOSE OF THE DEVICE
One of the most important subsystems of a gasoline engine is the ignition system. The fact is that normal operation of the engine is possible only if the combustion of the fuel-air mixture occurs in a timely manner. Otherwise, the entire work algorithm is disrupted.
During operation of the device, voltage is generated. It is served on candles. It is on them that the spark necessary to ignite the mixture is formed. As a result, the engine starts working and the car moves in the right direction.
For all the processes described above to become a reality, a distributor is needed. In this system it performs the following functions:
- Acts as an initiator of spark formation. This occurs due to the opening of contacts.
- The device directs the generated voltage to the desired spark plug.
- The distributor can, if necessary, change the moment of sparking. This parameter is determined by the driving mode selected by the driver. Also, a lot depends on the quality and type of fuel.
- The device is capable of storing energy in a bobbin.
As you can see, the part performs many functions. It is not surprising that without its normal operation, the operation of the engine is impossible.
Purpose of the mechanism
Before we tell you how a faulty distributor should be checked to identify breakdowns, let’s look at the purpose of the device. The breaker is a unit designed to detect the moment of formation of high-voltage signals in the system. The distributor is installed on both carburetors and injectors, and this mechanism is used to distribute electric ignition among the engine cylinders. That is why many car owners are interested in the question of how to set the ignition and adjust the distributor, where to turn it - this is necessary for the normal operation of the power unit.
In its design, this mechanism differs from others in the presence of various elements in the structure, which tend to wear out over time. When the first signs of malfunctions in the operation of the distributor are identified, the device must be removed and repaired, since its condition largely determines the operation of the power unit and its characteristics.
In addition to setting the ignition, the distributor performs the following functions:
- interrupts the primary ignition circuit, which ensures the appearance of a high-voltage pulse;
- distributes the spark among the cylinder spark plugs in a certain sequence.
Breaker device design
A device function called a slider
The slider is located in the ignition distributor. You can find it right under the lid. By design, runners are quite simple devices consisting of plates (central and spacer). Despite the fact that the models of distributor runners are different, they all have the same design.
One of the varieties of runner
These devices have an important function regarding sparking. We can say that the proper operation of the internal combustion engine directly depends on the slider.
You should know that the distributor rotor is a part of old cars equipped with a carburetor engine system. The slider is made of plastic and has a high-voltage contact inside. When the distributor operates and rotates, the contact of the slider is in direct contact with the contacts of the cover. Thus, the spark that is so necessary for the car is set.
In technical terms, the distributor rotor is needed to transmit high voltage current. The transmission goes from the ignition coil to the spark plugs through armored wires.
Fixing the slider on the distributor
The rotor is fixed directly to the distributor drive (shaft), and the rotation is set in such a way that for 1 revolution of the runner there are 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. It is in this way that the discharge is transmitted to the spark plugs in a strictly defined order.
On a distributor drive, the slider is fixed rigidly so that it does not jump off when the shaft rotates. When rotating, the side contact of the rotor contacts the CG (contact group) pressed into the distributor cap.
Interesting. The distributor cap is in the same position regularly. It does not move, but the sliding contact, “running” next to the electrodes of the cover, forms an alternating and short-term electric arc. This also explains the transmission of the discharge.
On some cars, ignition systems have two working contacts on the slider. This is, in principle, a working classic Twin Spark ignition circuit from the Italian company Fiat. One of the contacts is implemented closer to the center, the other - as far as possible. In this way, the contacts correspond to the cover electrodes, packaged according to the same principle. And most importantly: this scheme ensures complete isolation of the CGs from each other.
Twin Spark ignition system
Twin Spark is considered one of the first systems used for effective afterburning of fuel in the combustion chamber of a car. The system has a simple design, but is very effective and economical.
Symptoms of a problem
Of course, repair of the distributor is carried out only after it has been diagnosed.
Listed below are the main symptoms of a distributor malfunction, in which it is necessary to disassemble and check the mechanism:
- the car began to jerk while driving;
- the engine basically won’t start;
- when the speed increases, detonation may be heard (knock of “fingers”);
- it takes longer to increase speed;
- Gasoline consumption has increased.
Of course, these symptoms may indicate other problems. Therefore, before repairing a disassembled unit, you need to know how to set, how to adjust and how to check the distributor.
To check it, you need to disassemble it and pay attention to the condition of the following components:
- slider;
- oxidized or burnt distributor cover contacts;
- failure of the Hall sensor (its bearing element could fail or become jammed);
- distributor capacitor;
- presence of cracks on the device body;
- stuffing box;
- Repair of the ignition distributor should also be carried out if engine fluid gets into its structure.
Distributor for car
Possible breaker failures and their symptoms
How to check the ignition coil
Repair of the distributor in the automotive industry is not carried out so often, which is due to the good reliability of this unit. Of course, there is no escape from breakdowns, but few people suffer from them. It is not so difficult to identify that it was the distributor that began to “pierce” the electric charge or grabbed another “sore”. The symptoms of malfunctions of the distributor-interrupter are specific and manifest themselves in the incorrect organization of the main functions of the device.
More precisely, possible replacement or adjustment of the distributor may be necessary if the following symptoms occur:
- the spark is gone;
- the ignition operation is upset;
- the battery stopped charging while the machine was running (not on all models);
- the car began to jerk while driving;
- Unburnt gasoline drips from the exhaust pipe.
As for specific faults, they are often represented by the following list:
- The distributor drive (rotor) has worn out or burned out. The malfunction is diagnosed through a detailed examination of the rotor and experimental verification of its correct operation. If an element breaks, it may be necessary to either install a new drive or completely replace the distributor;
- The network has broken through. This, by the way, can happen in any component of the distributor. Most often, the high-voltage wires that extend to the spark plugs from the distributor cover are affected. Other elements of the system (small wires, connectors of distributor parts, contacts, etc.) break down noticeably less often. Checking for this malfunction is carried out using a regular “ring”;
- The seals are worn out. Perhaps this is a rather rare breakdown with characteristic symptoms. To be more precise, we are talking about a general disorder of the ignition and untimely formation of a spark. For repairs, it is necessary to replace the distributor seals, and it is worth replacing not only faulty elements, but also those that work correctly, so to speak, for prevention;
- The distributor slider or the sensor responsible for distributing the charge between the spark plugs has broken. Characteristic signs of this breakdown are the inability to correctly configure the distributor or its complete failure to operate. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the slider or sensor;
- The ignition coil has failed. This failure is characterized by either absent or incorrect sparking. Repair is carried out by replacing the burnt coil with a new one.
Other distributor malfunctions appear much less frequently. In any case, repairing this unit is not an easy task, so no motorist will be able to figure it out right away
To understand the whole essence of repairing a distributor, it is important to fully understand the principle of its operation and constantly practice. If you don’t want to learn all the basics of repair work, it’s better to entrust the repair to a professional who specializes in repairing car ignition systems
Repair
Before checking the cover or other structural elements, you need to prepare for repair work. Repairing the cover, replacing the distributor oil seal and other tasks to restore functionality are carried out after setting the marks. How to set marks - marks are applied to the device body, its cover, as well as the drives of auxiliary elements - this will allow you to maintain the required ignition timing without adjustment. Also, before removing the assembly, mark the position of the wires that go to the spark plugs, since if you mix them up during further installation, this may lead to damage to the mechanism.
As for the repair itself, it is performed like this:
- After dismantling the device, the cover is diagnosed. If you notice that it is broken, then it will have to be replaced with a functional one.
- Next, you need to check the distributor slider - it needs to be changed if the fuse has melted or rust and fumes have appeared on the element.
- After these steps, the dust shield is dismantled - first, the voltage terminal is removed, after which the two bolts securing the Hall sensor support plate are unscrewed, and the plate itself is also removed after these steps. Having done this, remove the retaining ring from the plate pin, unscrew the bolts securing the vacuum corrector, and remove the component itself. Then the support plastic is pulled out and its bushing is diagnosed - there should be no signs of damage on it.
- Next, remove the spring ring that secures the coupling pin. If you see that the condition of the ring is sad, it needs to be changed, because otherwise it will be of no use. Next, you need to knock out the pin from the coupling - it can only be replaced if the pins have worn out.
- Many car owners are interested in the question of how to check the capacitor. This element can also fail, so check the capacitor first. You will need to prepare a multimeter. Diagnostics is carried out by a tester.
- A centrifugal control device with a roller is removed from the structure. The distributor is replaced if there are gaps, signs of wear and other damage (the author of the video is Roman Romanov).
Lid
The distributor cap is the first component that you should pay attention to. It is in this part of the distributor that the most important actions take place, it is here that the load is greatest. In this regard, the lid and its elements become unusable before the rest.
Distribution cover
In addition to the cover, the rotor, contact group, hall sensor, bearings, etc. often fall into the risk zone from distributor elements.
So, the symptoms of a faulty distributor cap are simple, but insidious. The engine itself may begin to twitch while driving, its speed may drop or not gain at all. And in the rain, the problem will make itself felt even more, up to the impossibility of driving even a couple of meters.
You can check the cover yourself; just take a good look at it in good lighting. The unsatisfactory condition of the ebonite material, worn contacts or the presence of plaque, moisture and condensation on it - all this clearly indicates the presence of some problems with the cover.
The most dangerous thing about the lid is the cracks. This is where current will flow. However, it is not at all necessary that the cracks be large. Even through microcracks, current energy can escape.
Note. In some cases, treating the lid with silicone, as well as removing plaque from the contacts, solves the problem completely. But the difficulties can be much more difficult, especially if they are put off for a long time.
For effective inspection, it is recommended to completely remove the cover and clean it. Inspection should be carried out both from the outside and from the inside. Any defect found on the body or on the contact is already a reason to repair or replace the cover.
What are the lid defects?
For example, if soot or plaque has formed on the contacts, then it must be removed. A special brush with metal rods is used.
Diagnosis of the inside of the lid should be much more extensive. Primary attention, again, is focused on 4 contacts: whether there is a coating of graphite dust or not. The graphite rod itself must also be inspected and checked for normal operation (it must be easily pressed in and out).
Diagnostics of the distributor runner
The slider is replaced if this element can no longer perform its functions. You may need a multimeter for diagnosis.
How to check the slider at home, several options:
- The multimeter probes must be installed in the place where the slider itself is connected to the coal at the point of breakdown. To identify a breakdown, you need to carefully look at the device - the spark will go either completely to the side, or only partially. But it should be borne in mind that a breakdown cannot always be determined.
- Another diagnostic option is to test the device using a central cable type. You will only need to dismantle the cover itself, then bring the high-voltage cable from the reel to the distributor, then try to start the engine. When cranking the starter, if the distributor is broken, the spark will start to jump. If there is no slippage, then you don’t need to look for the cause of the problem here.
- If there is a crack on the runner, the spark will go to the side. In the event that the resistance of the element is completely burned out, but an attempt to restore the conductor could occur. In turn, this could lead to electrical breakdown of the element and its complete failure. In this case, it must be completely replaced.
After the repair, the distributor is adjusted. The adjusted mechanism is put in place; during installation, it is important to correctly match the marks and connect the high-voltage cables. The procedure for adjusting the ignition as a whole may differ depending on the vehicle, and there may be several adjustment options.
Design and characteristics of a slider with a resistor
The slider (rotor) with a resistor consists of several parts: a cast body, two rigidly fixed contacts (central, resting on a corner in the distributor cover, and a side one) and a cylindrical resistor located in a special recess. The housing is made of electrically insulating material; the contacts are usually fixed to it using rivets. The contacts have spring plates, between which a resistor is clamped. In the lower part of the slider body there is a shaped channel for fixation on the ignition distributor shaft.
According to the method of installing the resistor, there are two types of sliders:
- With replaceable resistor;
- With a non-replaceable resistor - the part is filled in a recess with a special insulating compound based on epoxy resin or glassy materials.
The runners use powerful resistors of a special design with end leads, designed for installation between spring contacts. In domestic cars, resistors with a resistance of 5.6 kOhm are most often used, but in various sliders you can find resistors with a resistance of 5 to 12 kOhm.
Depending on the type of distributor, the slider can be simply mounted on the distributor shaft (usually such parts are T-shaped), or mounted with two screws on the ignition timing regulator (such parts are made in the form of a flat cylinder). In both cases, the resistor is mounted on the outside of the slider, which allows access to its inspection and, if possible, replacement.
Malfunction of the contact distributor.
Malfunction of the distributor during contact ignition is due to a change in the gap in the contacts or their contamination. The operation of a contact distributor, in contrast to a non-contact distributor, is greatly influenced by the condition of the contacts, which must be checked after 10,000 km. Distributor malfunctions include wear of the shaft cams and the stop of the contacts sliding along them, wear of the bushings in which the shaft rotates, destruction of the bearing of the movable contact plate, weakening of the contact spring, jamming of the contacts on the axis, burning, erosion or contamination of the contacts.
All these faults lead to a change in the gap or a violation of contact between the contacts. As a consequence, loss of engine power, engine idling stops, throttle response decreases, jerking is possible when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.
In case of significant wear or destruction of the bearing of the movable contact plate, critical wear of the bushings, breakage of the negative shunt, a violation of the contact of the contact pair lever and the contact itself leads to popping noises in the intake manifold and muffler. This is also possible if the radio interference resistor located in the distributor runner burns out.
When the engine does not start, this may be due to a lack of contact or gap in the contact pair, or a breakdown of the slider. The absence, contamination or burnout of contacts is determined visually if there is no spark discharge on the high-voltage wire coming from the ignition coil. If there is a spark on the central wire and no spark on the spark plug wires, this indicates a breakdown of the slider. Malfunctions also include malfunction of the centrifugal and vacuum regulators. If there is a weak spark on the central wire and large sparking between the contacts, the capacitor is most likely faulty. Do not install additional capacitors or capacitors of larger capacity. The capacitance of the capacitor should be in the range of 0.15 - 0.35 µF.
Malfunction of the contactless distributor.
When operating contactless distributors, the main malfunction is a malfunction of the hall sensor or inductive sensor. Minor wear and play in the bushings and bearing of the movable contact plate do not affect the operation of the distributor until the sensor rotor touches the stator.
Such malfunctions as breakdown of the slider, burning of its resistance. It can also break through the distributor cap between the cylinders. This malfunction is typical for non-contact distributors, since the secondary voltage in these systems is twice as high as in a contact one.
Why does the VAZ-2107 twitch - let’s understand the operation of the “distributor”
Well, if the engine of your VAZ-2107 suddenly stalls and does not start, we will find the reason and eliminate it quickly. Everyone knows that this happens if the “spark” disappears or there is no gasoline supplied at all. It’s much worse when the car seems to be moving, but the nerves are fraying - uneven idling, jerking and twitching when driving. Finding the root of the problem can take a lot of time and take a lot of money out of your pocket. And more often than not, these searches ultimately lead to a distributor. This material will help you correctly replace it with a working one, select a suitable replacement, and understand the device and operation.
What signs indicate a malfunction of the VAZ car distributor?
1. The engine does not start: - there is no gap or too large a gap between the breaker contacts; -burnt and dirty contacts; - the capacitor has failed; - the noise suppression resistance of the “slider” has burned out; - the distributor cover is “broken”; - the low voltage wire is broken or its terminals are oxidized; -Hall sensor burnt out (non-contact ignition). 2. The engine “shakes” at idle: - the gap between the contacts is not normal; - ignition too early. 3. The engine “jerks” at high speeds: - the gap between the breaker contacts is too large; - the spring of the movable contact of the breaker has weakened; - the springs of the centrifugal regulator have weakened. 4. “Jerking”, interruptions in all engine modes: -damage to high voltage wires, oxidized or loose in the sockets; -dirty, oily, burnt breaker contacts; - the corner of the moving contact in the distributor cover is worn out or broken; -cracks and burnouts of the “runner” and the distributor cover; - the capacitor is “half broken” and needs to be replaced; - the bushings are worn out and the distributor shaft is “playing”; - the contactless ignition system switch is faulty. 5. The car accelerates slowly, consumes a lot of fuel: -the ignition timing is incorrectly set. Note! Signs of a malfunction of the VAZ-2107 distributor are very easily confused with manifestations of malfunctions in the power system . Therefore, never start disassembling the distributor and carburetor with the fuel pump at the same time!
CHECKING THE IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR. Repair and diagnostics of the electrical equipment system.
How to check the ignition distributor
The main reason for checking the ignition distributor, the engine electrical system, is to check for damage that is not subject to normal repair. Typically, the ignition distributor is checked on a test bench. Before installing the distributor on the test stand, make sure that the condition of the breaker contacts is normal. The lever with a moving contact should not jam on the axis. Check the wear of the textolite block; if the spring of the lever is weakened, or the lever itself is stuck on the axis, the contact group must be replaced.
Contacts that are dirty, burnt or have signs of erosion will need to be treated. For processing, use a velvet file; the use of abrasive materials or sandpaper is prohibited. After cleaning, clean the contacts well.
Wipe the ignition distributor cover from dust and oil residues
When installing the ignition distributor on a control test bench to check the ignition devices, connect it to an electric motor that can adjust the rotation speed.
The control test bench must be able to connect the distributor with the ignition coil and battery, similar to the ignition system diagram.
Connect the terminals of the distributor cover to spark gaps, the interelectrode gap of which is adjustable.
Set the interelectrode gap of the spark gaps to 5 mm, turn on the electric motor, set the rotation speed to 2000 rpm. Then increase the interelectrode gap to 10mm, and check for internal discharges in the distributor. The manifestation of internal discharges can be determined by a characteristic sound, or by an interruption and weakening of sparking at the stand's spark gap.
A serviceable distributor should not make noise at any roller rotation speed
To determine the characteristics of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator, set the interelectrode gap of the bench spark gap to 7 mm. At the stand, turn on the electric motor, the speed should be 150 - 200 rpm.
Mark the value in degrees on the graduated disk of the stand, gradually increase the rotation speed by 200 - 300 revolutions, use the disk of the stand to determine the number of degrees of ignition timing, it should correspond to that shown in the image.
- A - ignition distributor P125.
- B – ignition distributor 30.3706.
- Where is the vertical line? A corresponds to the ignition timing in degrees.
- And the horizontal straight line n is the rotation frequency of the ignition distributor shaft in minutes.
If the characteristic shown in the figure differs from the test indicators, it can be corrected and brought back to normal by bending the springs of the centrifugal regulator weights.
If you need to bring the indicator up to 1100 rpm, bend the thin spring strut, and if above 1100 rpm. min. then bend the thick spring strut. To increase the angle, reduce the spring tension; to decrease it, increase it.
To obtain the performance characteristics of the vacuum ignition timing regulator, set the rotation speed for the roller to 1000 rpm. On a graduated disk, determine the value in degrees at which one of the four sparks occurs and mark it. Next, slowly, as they say smoothly, increase the vacuum and record the number of degrees every 20 mm of mercury, record the number of degrees of ignition timing. Compare the obtained indicators with the values shown in the images.
Where the vertical straight line A is the ignition timing in degrees. And the horizontal straight line P is the vacuum in millimeters of mercury.
Between the various terminals and ground, check the insulation resistance using a megger.
To measure the resistance between ground and the low-voltage terminal of the breaker, it must be done with the breaker contacts open. At 25-30 degrees Celsius, the insulation resistance should be at least 10 MΩ (megohm).
If you measure the capacitance of a capacitor in the frequency range 50 - 1000 Hz, the capacitance should correspond to 0.20 -0.25 µF (microfarads)
Distributor function in the ignition system of a carburetor car
The full name of this device “ignition switch-distributor” reveals part of its “responsibilities” - at a strictly defined time to break the low-voltage circuit of the ignition coil and distribute the resulting high-voltage energy, in a given order (1-3-4-2), among the cylinders . It is also “responsible” for changing the ignition timing depending on the speed of the engine crankshaft (crankshaft) using a centrifugal regulator and “correcting” this angle depending on the load on the engine using a vacuum corrector.
Setting the ignition using a strobe light
You can adjust the ignition timing using a strobe, but the “manual” method has exactly the same effect. The only negative is that it takes longer to set up, but you can find the most effective ignition timing when the engine produces maximum power.
Installing the ignition on a VAZ engine photo
“Strobe” (as it is popularly called) is a device that pulses the crankshaft position mark at the moment of spark formation. To put it simply, while the engine is running, you can direct the beam of this device to a mark that serves to regulate the ignition timing. We see this mark as stationary, although it is located on a pulley or rotating flywheel (depending on the car model).
Checking the performance of correction systems with a strobe:
- We warm up the engine and remove the “choke”; the idle speed should be adjusted to normal (or slightly lower). We remove the vacuum tube that goes from the carburetor to the “vacuum manifold” of the distributor. Next, in this mode, we adjust and check the setting of the initial ignition timing. In the “classic”, this angle should be from 2 to 7 degrees, it depends on the engine displacement. For example, VAZ 2108-2110 - 1100 cm - 6 g, 1300 cm - 1 g, 1500 cm - 4 g. It is better to find out more in the car description).
- As the engine speed increases, to approximately 2000, the advance angle should increase by 5-7 degrees. If there are no changes, this means that the centrifugal regulator is not working. The main cause of failure may be jamming of the centrifugal mechanism, most often this occurs due to oxidation. For repairs, you need to disassemble, clean and lubricate. In addition, the springs of the mechanism often break.
- To check the operation of the vacuum ignition timing regulator, you need to make more effort, since its performance is related to the operation of the carburetor. The most important condition for good operation of the vacuum corrector is that while the engine is running at idle speed, there should be no vacuum in the tube that goes from the carburetor to the “vacuum manifold”. It should only appear when the engine speed increases. The moment a vacuum appears in the tube can be checked by carefully placing the tip of your tongue on it. You need to apply it to the end of the tube that we removed initially. If the carburetor does not provide timely vacuum in the tube, then the vacuum corrector will not work normally, even if the distributor mechanism is fully operational.
Which distributor is suitable for the VAZ-2107
On all carburetor rear-wheel drive VAZ cars, the device has almost identical components and a similar operating principle. Distributors for engines with a volume of 1200-1300 cc differ in that: - the drive rod is 7 mm shorter; — no vacuum ignition timing regulator; — the settings of the weights and springs of the centrifugal regulator are different. For engines with a volume of 1500-1600 cc, all distributors are suitable in terms of mounting dimensions and characteristics. Only “Nivovskie” ones differ. They are tuned for stable traction at low speeds and the VAZ-2107 with such a distributor will accelerate slowly. The brands of “Nivovsky” distributors are: 3810.3706, 038.3706-10. And distributors of brands 0.3706 (contact) and 38.3706 (non-contact) are suitable for the “Seven” and other classic cars.
The main components of the distributor and a description of its operation
VAZ classic distributor device
Device
The distributor is assembled in a housing. Inside it, a contact group is mounted on a bearing: moving and fixed contacts or a Hall sensor (for contactless ignition). To correct the advance angle, the vacuum regulator can rotate the contact group at a small angle relative to the housing. The capacitor is attached to the bottom of the case with screws. A drive roller is mounted on bushings in the center of the body. Its bottom has splines with which it engages with the drive gear. In the upper part of the roller there are contact drive cams (for contact ignition) or a steel cup with four slots - a screen (for contactless ignition). At the very top, on a steel platform, two weights and two springs of the centrifugal ignition regulator are installed. A plastic housing with a moving contact and noise suppression resistance of the high voltage distributor (slider) is screwed onto the top with two screws. The entire structure is closed with a lid on two spring latches. The body and cover have a tongue and groove so that they fit together in only one position. The cover contains contact terminals for high voltage wires from the spark plugs and from the ignition coil. The distributor is secured to the engine block using a stud, nut and pressure washer. To adjust the ignition timing, the housing can be rotated relative to the block.
Job
The distributor is connected through the drive to the engine crankshaft and rotates with it. For two full revolutions of the crankshaft, the distributor shaft makes one revolution. This is due to the fact that our engine is four-stroke. When installing the distributor in place, the roller is oriented in strict accordance with the operating order of the engine. This is done so that the contacts open and the spark jumps on the spark plug when the piston of each cylinder, compressing the combustible mixture, does not reach top dead center (TDC) by a few millimeters. This is called ignition advance. When the number of revolutions increases, the distance must be increased, and when it decreases, it must be decreased, which is what the centrifugal regulator does. Its weights, under the influence of centrifugal force, which is greater the higher the engine speed, diverge to the sides and move the cams relative to the roller, making ignition “earlier.” When the engine speed decreases, the springs return the weights to their place and the ignition becomes “later”. This is necessary to increase engine power and efficiency. In addition to the centrifugal one, a vacuum ignition timing regulator is also installed on the distributor. Its function is to fire “earlier” at low throttle opening angles and “later” at sharp throttle opening angles. At idle and at full throttle, the vacuum seal does not work. The regulators are adjusted only at the stands, so there is no need to change the settings yourself.
FAQ
What is a distributor?
The distributor is called the ignition distributor. This part is used in the ignition system of carburetor vehicles only.
Where is the distributor located?
You will find the distributor near the engine or cylinder head. The easiest way to identify it is by the round plastic housing cover with five “horns”, to which the high-voltage ignition wires and the central electrode are connected. The cover is placed on a cylindrical metal case in which the distributor mechanism is located.
What is the distributor responsible for?
The distributor is responsible for ensuring that a spark is supplied to the spark plugs individually, in a certain sequence and in synchronization with the operation of the camshaft.
What does a distributor do?
The distributor receives voltage and creates high-voltage pulses in the ignition system, and then distributes them to the spark plugs of each cylinder in a given sequence. When the crankshaft rotates, the gear of the distributor shaft on which the slider is located rotates, which, constantly rotating, transmits part of the voltage to the contacts of each individual spark plug. Every time a piston is at TDC (top dead center), the slider sends voltage to that cylinder's spark plug.
Removal and installation of distributor VAZ-2107, 2104, 2105, 2106
Preparation
Before installing a new VAZ-2107 distributor for a contact ignition system, you need to adjust the gap between the contacts of the breaker. It is more convenient to do this with the device removed from the car. We check the gap with a flat feeler gauge. The value is set from 0.35 to 0.45 mm. In this case, the protrusion of the cam should move the moving contact away from the stationary contact as much as possible. We adjust by slightly loosening the screws, and then tighten them more firmly and check the gap again. Contacts that have worked hard may have a protrusion on one and a depression on the other, which interferes with adjustment. You can get around this problem by grinding off the protrusion with a needle file. It is better not to use sandpaper, because... small particles of abrasive will definitely “eat” into the surface and interfere with the operation of the contacts.
Before removing the old distributor, mark its position relative to the cylinder block with a marker. You also need to accurately mark the position of the moving contact (slider) relative to the body. If all this is not done, the settings will be violated and the engine will not start.
Installation
Having established exactly the same position of the roller in the body on the new distributor, carefully insert it into the hole in the block, slightly turning the roller to align the splines. Having “planted” the device in place by rotating the body relative to the block, we set the approximate advance angle, as on the old distributor. Secure with a washer and nut, but not too tight. Now you need to plug in the high voltage wires. This is easy to do - each contact on the distributor cover has the number of the cylinder to which it needs to be connected. We connect the wire from the ignition coil to the central terminal. The wires should fit tightly, with a slight tension, the protective caps should be pushed all the way down. Don’t get carried away, don’t bend the petals of the wire tips too much, otherwise later, when you try to remove them, you’ll tear off the wires “with their roots”! A wire goes from the contact wire to the “K” terminal of the ignition coil, usually it is green. If your VAZ-2107 is equipped with a contactless ignition system, then you need to connect a connector with three wires. Having plugged it into the socket, check the fit of the wires; it happens that they “crawl out” from their places and the device does not work. Everything is done, the new distributor is installed and ready to go. Let's try to start the engine. Started up? Great, that means everything was done correctly, all that remains is to check and slightly adjust the ignition timing.
How to check distributor 5a?
Check the primary winding resistance using an ohmmeter connected to the ignition coil. Check the secondary winding resistance using an ohmmeter connected to the ignition coil. If the resistance of any of the ignition coil windings is not within the specified value, replace the ignition coil.
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Checking the ignition timing of the VAZ-2107 engine
The methods described below make it possible to independently adjust the ignition timing. They are suitable equally well for both contact and non-contact distributors. Adjusting the ignition timing at idle. We warm up the engine to operating temperature, at idle speed, turning the body relative to the block, “catch” the position in which the speed will be the highest. We fix the distributor in this position. We check the correct setting of the ignition timing “on the fly”. Having looked at a free section of a flat road, we drive out onto it. We keep the speed at 40 km/h in fourth gear and sharply press the gas pedal. A loud metallic knock should be heard under the hood, disappearing by itself after a few (four to six) seconds. Is everything exactly like this for you? This means the adjustment is complete. If the knocking does not go away for a long time, we stop, loosen the distributor and turn the distributor clockwise a couple of millimeters, making the ignition later. We start the engine again, accelerate, and repeat the test. If there is no knocking at all, then the distributor needs to be turned counterclockwise, setting the ignition “early” and checked again while driving. After doing these steps several times, you get the optimal ignition timing specifically for your VAZ engine. Still have questions? Watch this video