The operation of a vehicle depends entirely on the performance of its components and parts. If one of the elements fails, the car stops functioning normally. With scheduled maintenance, it is possible to eliminate all impending breakdowns of the vehicle. However, it also happens that a part’s breakdown can occur suddenly. It happens that the car starts, then stalls. In many situations, it is not possible to start a vehicle behind you and you have to turn to the services of a tow truck. What to do in this case and how to fix the problem? Let's consider.
Stalls at idle
The reasons for stopping the power unit at idle may be:
- Malfunction of the XX regulator. You can check the functionality of the XX sensor in the following way: try to start the car and press the gas pedal while cranking the starter. As soon as the engine starts, you should release the pedal and look at the speed; if it fluctuates, the problem lies precisely in the XX sensor.
- In other cases, when your VAZ (injector) starts and stalls, the problem lies in a malfunction of the throttle valve. This part should be washed.
- Sometimes flushing does not fix the problem. In this case, the reason lies in the throttle position sensor. To solve the problem, you will have to replace the sensor.
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Comments 60
And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(
remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!
So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?
according to IAC - everything depends on the ECU firmware! DPRV - question to the manufacturer DMRV - it is still a sensor and it also has brains!
filter, there’s nothing else, and maybe a fuel filter, but then it won’t work
I changed the filter, the old one was spinning the same way, they blamed it, but it didn’t turn out that way...
Guys, I’m sorry that it’s not much on topic, but I hope that there’s nothing wrong with it, on the contrary, at idle it works for me, when I press the gas pedal, it feels like there’s either not enough fuel, or it’s terribly overflowing, periodically this overflow or The lack of fuel disappears and the car drives quite normally. What could be, where to go? Thanks for understanding. Machine 3102 with ZMZ 406.
I had this happen because of the injectors.
Do you think it's worth cleaning? Or should I change it anyway?
Cleaning didn't help me, I changed it
Thank you. I'll try to clean it tomorrow
I agree with what was said above on my own - after replacing the filters, if that doesn’t help, try to measure the pressure of the fuel line. 1 the pressure of the pump without a fine filter (in front of the ramp) should be at least 4.5 kgcm 2 at idle, the pressure in the rail should be at least 2.5 kgcm3 most likely The check valve on the fuel rail failed, I replaced about a dozen at one time until I found an old model - a dismountable one - all the problems with idle were gone, good luck
really? because if I give it gas, everything is perfect, it doesn’t hold idle even for 5 seconds, it stalls...
It was due to a clogged filter in the tank (pyramid)
if the fuel pump makes a lot of noise, it means it will soon grunt, I had this happen, you can last a month on this, but apparently it needs a replacement
During the operation of a car, a common situation is that after turning the ignition key, the car starts, the engine starts to work and stalls after a few seconds. As a rule, 3-5 seconds pass from the moment of starting to stopping the internal combustion engine. Before the engine stops completely, engine vibrations are also noticeable, the power unit shakes and operates very unstable.
This happens as a result of a decrease in speed, the resonance effect of a rotating crankshaft, etc. When you try to start the engine again, the engine may no longer start, or the situation described above may repeat again.
The reasons for this problem vary. The main thing is that if the car starts and stalls, this indicates that in-depth diagnostics are needed. Next we will talk about what to do in such a situation, as well as how to find the reason why the engine stalls after starting.
Read in this article
Why does the engine stall?
It starts, then while driving, then immediately stalls, the engine for a number of reasons:
- Poor fuel quality. The problem can be resolved by replacing the fuel filter.
- The spark plugs are clogged (large carbon deposits). The solution is to replace or calcinate the spark plugs.
- Clogged fuel cell. It's worth replacing.
- Air filter malfunction. The engine stalls due to insufficient oxygen supply, which leads to poor combustion of the working mixture.
- Generator failure or battery failure.
- Failure of the main sensors of the car.
Error codes
When the electrical circuit of the car has become clear, you can consider the errors of the electronic engine control unit, which will help to accurately recognize the malfunction, as well as eliminate them in a timely manner.
Designation of fault codes
- 1 P0016 Temporary inconsistency (phase shift) of the camshaft and crankshaft
- 2 P0031 Short circuit of the oxygen sensor heater circuit
- 3 P0032 Open circuit of the oxygen sensor heater
- 4 P0068 Throttle position sensor error (mismatch with absolute pressure sensor)
- 5 P2074 Absolute pressure sensor error (mismatch with throttle position sensor)
- 6 P0071 Ambient temperature sensor error (mismatch with other sensors)
- 7 P0072 Short circuit of the ambient temperature sensor circuit
- 8 P0073 Open circuit of the ambient temperature sensor
- 9 P0107 Short circuit of the pressure sensor circuit
- 10 P0108 Pressure sensor circuit open
- 11 P0111 Intake air temperature sensor error
- 12 P0112 Short circuit of the intake air temperature sensor circuit
- 13 P0113 Open air temperature sensor circuit
- 14 P0116 The performance characteristics of the coolant temperature sensor are not normal
- 15 P0117 Short circuit of the coolant temperature sensor circuit
- 16 P0118 Open circuit of the coolant temperature sensor
- 17 P0122 Short circuit of the throttle position sensor circuit
- 18 P0123 Open circuit of the throttle position sensor
- 19 P0125 Insufficient cooling temperature for fuel control feedback
- 20 P0128 Thermostat malfunction
- 21 P0129 Incorrect reading of the absolute pressure sensor when the ignition is turned off
- 22 P0131 Short circuit of the oxygen sensor circuit
- 23 P0132 Open circuit of the oxygen sensor
- 24 P0133 Slow response of the oxygen sensor to changes in the composition of the mixture
- 25 P0135 Oxygen sensor heater performance is not normal
- 26 U0155 No messages on the data bus
- 27 P0171 Poor fuel mixture (no feedback from the oxygen sensor)
- 28 P0172 Rich fuel mixture (no feedback from oxygen sensor)
- 29 P0201 Open circuit of injector No. 1
- 30 P0202 Open circuit of injector No. 2
- 31 P0203 Open circuit of injector No. 3
- 32 P0204 Open circuit of injector No. 4
- 33 P0300 Missing working process on all cylinders
- 34 P0301 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 1
- 35 P0302 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 2
- 36 P0303 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 3
- 37 P0304 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 4
- 38 P0315 Incorrect signal from the crankshaft sensor
- 39 P0325 Knock sensor circuit
- 40 P0335 Open circuit of the crankshaft position sensor
- 41 P0339 Missing signal pulses from the crankshaft position sensor
- 42 P0340 Open circuit of the camshaft position sensor
- 43 P0344 Missing signal pulses from the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor
- 44 P0443 Open circuit of the canister purge valve
- 45 P0480 Fan control relay circuit open
- 46 P0501 Performance characteristics of the vehicle speed sensor signal are normal
- 47 P0506 Idle speed higher than specified
- 48 P0507 Idle speed below specified
- 49 P0508 Open circuit of the idle speed regulator
- 50 P0509 Short circuit of the idle regulator circuit
- 51 P0516 Open circuit of the battery temperature sensor
- 52 P0517 Low signal level of battery temperature sensor
- 53 P0532 Low signal level of the air conditioner pressure sensor
- 54 P0533 Open air conditioner pressure sensor circuit
- 55 P0562 Low battery voltage
- 56 P0563 Battery voltage high
- 57 P0600 Malfunctions of the internal circuits of the control unit
- 58 P0601 Internal memory checksum error
- 59 P0622 Malfunction of the generator excitation winding circuit
- 60 P0627 Open circuit of the fuel pump relay
- 61 P0630 VIN is not programmed into the control unit
- 62 P0632 Odometer is not programmed in the control unit
- 63 P0645 Open circuit of the compressor clutch relay
- 64 P0685 Main relay circuit open
- 65 P0688 Open circuit of main relay contacts
- 66 P1115 Temperature sensor mismatch
- 67 P1603 Internal error CU transmission of dual-port RAM
- 68 P1604 Internal error CU writing / reading dual-port RAM
- 69 P1607 Counts incorrectly in “-”
- 70 P2610 Counts incorrectly in “+”
- 71 P1696 Error in the control unit prohibiting writing to the EEPROM
- 72 P1697 Error control unit incomplete programming
- 73 P2096 Low fuel mixture signal
- 74 P2097 Rich fuel mixture signal
- 75 P2302 Insufficient ionization of the secondary circuit of ignition coil No. 1
- 76 P2305 Insufficient ionization of the secondary circuit of ignition coil No. 2
- 77 P2503 Low output level of the charging system
Failure Traits
If the engine malfunctions, the following characteristic features will occur:
- The car stalls when you turn on devices or other equipment powered by the on-board network.
- The operation of the BC is disrupted due to voltage surges.
- When a load is applied, the engine stops immediately.
- You can hear the sounds of the alternator belt spinning.
- If the operation of the generator is disrupted, then as the speed increases, the headlights begin to burn better and brighter.
Sometimes these problems are not related to the malfunction of the generator, but to other problems of the car.
Special cases
In addition to all of the above, other adventures happen with the Gazelle 405. Many drivers do not notice how the chain on the engine jumps. Accordingly, the engine refuses to come to life until the chain is in its place.
Your task is simply to open the hood and check if the chain is in order
, if not, then put it in its place. This procedure will take you 10 minutes at best, but you will be able to start your car. Otherwise, the Gazelle 405 injector does not start due to other problems.
It is quite difficult to answer this question, so we have simply listed for you several of the most common breakdown options. You can get an accurate answer only after a thorough diagnosis. It is at this stage that you can find out the reason why the car refuses to start. Therefore, do not rack your brains and better contact a car service center.
Yes, you will spend money, and most likely a lot, but at least you will be able to continue to quietly drive around in your gazelle.
Fuel sensor failure
Gasoline float sensors are considered not the most reliable in operation. Low reliability is also caused by the poor quality of the fuel used and the climatic conditions. As a result, due to two unpleasant moments, the sensor fails. If the car owner fills up with one specific amount of fuel each time, the sensor will quickly fail. A broken mechanism will not allow you to keep track of the end of the fuel in the tank in time, and if at the last moment there was enough fuel to start the engine, then a stop will occur, since there is not enough fuel for operation. If there are problems with the amount of gasoline, as a rule, it will not be possible to start the engine subsequent times.
Adjustment
Fuel consumption directly depends on the adjustment, even if the carburetor is absolutely working.
There is only one external adjustment in the device - idle speed. How to do it correctly:
- We start the engine and warm it up to a hot state, then perform adjustments at idle speed;
- We unscrew the quantity screw (a large screw with a spring) and the quality screw until the engine reaches maximum speed;
- By evenly tightening both screws, we find the position when the engine starts to work with minimal interruptions;
- Using the quantity screw we set the speed to a slightly higher speed, at this point using the quality screw we achieve stable operation of the motor, but at the same time we need to try to keep the quality screw unscrewed to a minimum (as far as possible);
- Having adjusted the quality, turn the quantity screw until the optimal idle speed is obtained (700-750 rpm).
If there are malfunctions in the carburetor or engine that affect the stability of idle speed, there is no point in adjusting the idle speed - you must first fix the problem.
If you remove the carburetor housing cover, you can adjust the gasoline level in the float chamber. Adjustment is made by bending the tongue on the float.
Fuel system malfunction
In addition to a clogged grid, there are other options for malfunctioning of the fuel system, which affect the starting and operation of the engine. The driver can fix all of the following operational problems on his own or by contacting a service center:
- The fuel pump burned out - the engine started and immediately died.
- The injectors became clogged, which led to an insufficient amount of fuel and lubricants.
- Fuel lines are clogged due to low-quality gasoline.
- There was a malfunction in the on-board computer, which turned off the fuel pump.
Drivers of regularly maintained vehicles rarely encounter the listed fuel system malfunctions. If the car does not start well and stalls, then the problem should be diagnosed by checking the fuel system.
Car service to help
Read:
If you decide to contact a car service, first of all carry out engine diagnostics. Few inexperienced drivers understand the cause of the breakdown. At the same time, the Gazelle 405 may not start for various reasons, and some of them can be resolved on the spot.
When you finally take your car to a car service center, at least consult with its employees; most likely they will tell you what the problem is.
It is very important to know absolutely everything about your car.
to protect yourself on the road and do extra work. Sooner or later, any part can break, but it will be better if you are prepared for this.
The valves are malfunctioning
When the engine starts and stalls, the cause of the breakdown is hidden in the operation of the valves (this applies to the gasoline model of the engine). Diesel options are characterized by a decrease in fuel pressure. For repairs, you should contact a service station, where they will carry out appropriate diagnostics and adjust the valves and adjust the operation of the timing belt.
Problems most often can be:
- Unadjusted valves and uneven clearances do not allow the engine to operate stably.
- Valve deformation. Replacement with subsequent adjustment of the timing will be required.
- Overcooling of the power plant, which prevents normal warming up at startup.
- Diesel fuel is frozen in the pipes.
The engine chokes when you press the gas pedal
A fairly common situation during the operation of a vehicle is when failures occur when pressing the gas pedal, the engine stalls when over-accelerating, the power unit does not pick up speed, choke, etc.
Let's start with the fact that there can be many possible reasons for this type of malfunction. In the process of initial diagnosis, an important condition is the observation of characteristic symptoms, which allows you to more accurately and quickly determine the malfunction. Next, we will look at why the engine stalls when you press the gas pedal, as well as in what cases the engine stalls when you press the gas.
The engine stalls when you press the gas: possible reasons
As already mentioned, certain signs allow you to localize the existing problem. For example, if the engine stalls when “cold” after pressing the gas pedal only when the humidity outside is high, moisture may well be the cause.
- The problem is that water particles can accumulate on the distributor cap. Such accumulations of moisture settle on the inner surface of the lid in the form of condensation. Let us add that on some cars the cover is shaped in such a way that allows current to pass through the distributor, that is, the discharge is simply not supplied to the spark plugs. At the same time, at idle, the internal combustion engine operates normally, but when you press the gas, the problem manifests itself. This is explained by the fact that the distributor, at the moment of gas supply, begins to operate in an accelerated mode, passing a larger amount of electricity. Taking into account the fact that moisture has accumulated in the distributor housing, a malfunction immediately occurs and the engine choke, as a weak spark is formed at the spark plugs. To check, it is enough to observe whether such a failure is present on a warm engine, and also whether the malfunction appears when it is dry outside. You can also put the car in a heated garage or parking lot for several hours, and then evaluate the stability of the internal combustion engine after starting and at the moment you press the gas.
- Another reason why the unit may choke is that there is no vacuum in the fuel system. In other words, air leakage occurs, which affects the fuel pressure and the composition of the fuel-air mixture. Usually the problem progresses gradually and can occur on both a cold and hot engine. The fact is that in order to accurately determine the amount of fuel supplied at a specific point in time, the vacuum in the fuel system plays an important role.
Engine stalls when switching to gas
The presence of gas equipment in a car, along with certain advantages, can cause a number of inconveniences to the driver. One of the common problems is that the engine stalls when switching from gasoline to gas. The problem can manifest itself in different ways. In the first case, the unit stalls immediately, that is, at the moment of transition; in the second, the engine choke after the driver presses the accelerator after the transition, that is, when the engine is already running on gas in idle mode.
The reason is that a cold reducer does not evaporate the supplied gas in the required volume. Please note that we should not exclude the fact that the degree of heating of the gearbox depends on the characteristics of its connection (to the manifold, to the heater hoses, etc.), as well as on the level of coolant in the system. Let us add that another common cause may be the gas injectors themselves. In some cases they need to be cleaned, in others it is better to replace them with more efficient ones.
What's the result?
If the engine choke when you press the gas, you should start by checking the spark plugs. Very often, a problem with an engine is solved by simply installing new spark plugs. Please note that when the check light comes on on the dashboard, this is the basis for computer diagnostics of the engine. The specified diagnostics in many cases allows you to narrow down the scope of troubleshooting as much as possible and quickly eliminate the breakdown.
Carburetor problem
A situation occurs when the car is well warmed up, but the engine stops on its own. Most likely this is a carburetor malfunction. This is due to the fact that during its operation a large amount of air passes through this device, some of which allows it to be cooled in a timely manner. Together with the carburetor, the fuel cools and passes through the device. The result is that the carburetor temperature is significantly lower than the engine temperature.
Why doesn't the injection gazelle 405 start? main reasons
The car started and stalled - what are the reasons?
Why doesn't the injection Gazelle 405 start? Main reasons
There are various difficulties with cars, unfortunately the Gazelle 405 injector won’t start
for some reason in most cases. Drivers begin to rack their brains, but from time to time it is impossible to find a solution to the problem in any case.
At the moment, several more possible breakdowns will be considered, during which the car will not start.
When this happens, the first thing our client needs to do is look at the wires, spark plugs, rail pressure and injectors. In most cases, the Gazelle 405 injector will not start specifically because of the spark plugs, so just change them. Alas, when problems arise that are more serious than candles.
Content
Some, when the Gazelle 405 does not start, immediately change the coolant temperature sensor. The fact is that the engine may overheat and it is because of this that it does not want to start.
Try changing the sensor and the cooling will return to normal. In any case, the most reliable option is to take it to a car service center. There, qualified specialists will quickly deal with the breakdown and tell you what was wrong with the car. You will know in the future what exactly will have to be repaired.
Valves and cylinders
Quite a few motorists monitor the condition of the power unit. As you know, wear and tear does not spare anyone or anything, and accordingly, burnout of valves and pistons can lead to the fact that at first the engine begins to start poorly, and then stops altogether.
The second nuance is the high degree of wear of the valves, which is why they do not fit tightly to the seats. Gasoline drips through the cracks into the cylinders. It turns out that there is an overflow of fuel, and since the spark plugs are filled, the power plant does not start due to the lack of a spark.
The engine starts and stalls: troubleshooting
So, if a similar problem appears, then it is necessary to take into account a number of features. First of all, the operation of the internal combustion engine after startup will be influenced by the following factors:
- fuel supply;
- air supply;
- spark on spark plugs (for gasoline internal combustion engines);
- correct operation of glow plugs (for diesel engines);
- proper operation of the ECM and electronic sensors;
With that said, you should first start by checking the main possible causes:
- Quite often, malfunctions in the operation of the alarm system and the anti-theft system can cause the engine to fail to operate after starting. In other words, the immobilizer does not turn off and continues to block the start of the internal combustion engine, which is its main function to prevent vehicle theft. If the alarm blocks the engine, then you need to check the operation of all elements, try to reset the error, turn off the anti-theft system, etc.
- Problems with the IAC and idle air valve often arise due to contamination of these elements. You should also pay attention to the cleanliness of the throttle valve. As for the crankshaft sensor, incorrect data that it transmits to the ECU can cause the engine to stall immediately after starting.
- Poor quality fuels and lubricants can also cause problems. As a rule, problems begin in cases where low-grade fuel was filled or the engine uses motor oil that does not meet the recommendations/has lost its properties.
- A faulty fuel pump, air leaks in the fuel line, the formation of air pockets and dirty fuel filters do not allow creating the required pressure in the power system or supplying fuel in the required volume.
- The air filter and its contamination leads to the fact that the working mixture is significantly over-rich. In other words, the engine does not have enough air to burn fuel, and the spark plugs flood.
- Problems with ECM sensors (EGR sensor, oxygen sensor, DPKV, etc.) can lead to both unstable engine operation at idle and a complete engine stop after starting.
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Comments 60
And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(
remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!
So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?
according to IAC - everything depends on the ECU firmware! DPRV - question to the manufacturer DMRV - it is still a sensor and it also has brains!
filter, there’s nothing else, and maybe a fuel filter, but then it won’t work
I changed the filter, the old one was spinning the same way, they blamed it, but it didn’t turn out that way...
Guys, I’m sorry that it’s not much on topic, but I hope that there’s nothing wrong with it, on the contrary, at idle it works for me, when I press the gas pedal, it feels like there’s either not enough fuel, or it’s terribly overflowing, periodically this overflow or The lack of fuel disappears and the car drives quite normally. What could be, where to go? Thanks for understanding. Machine 3102 with ZMZ 406.
I had this happen because of the injectors.
Do you think it's worth cleaning? Or should I change it anyway?
Cleaning didn't help me, I changed it
Thank you. I'll try to clean it tomorrow
I agree with what was said above on my own - after replacing the filters, if that doesn’t help, try to measure the pressure of the fuel line. 1 the pressure of the pump without a fine filter (in front of the ramp) should be at least 4.5 kgcm 2 at idle, the pressure in the rail should be at least 2.5 kgcm3 most likely The check valve on the fuel rail failed, I replaced about a dozen at one time until I found an old model - a dismountable one - all the problems with idle were gone, good luck
really? because if I give it gas, everything is perfect, it doesn’t hold idle even for 5 seconds, it stalls...
It was due to a clogged filter in the tank (pyramid)