Gazelle Next won't start: causes and troubleshooting, emergency method of starting the engine, step-by-step instructions for repair and restoration

Gazelle Next is equipped with diesel, gasoline and gas engines.

Regardless of the type of power plant, during operation, the car owner may be faced with a situation where his car does not start.

If the engine does not start, it is important for the driver not to panic, but to take troubleshooting measures.

Features of diesel engine operation

In gasoline units, a mixture of air and fuel is formed, which is injected into the cylinders using an injector. Once in the combustion chamber, the mixture is ignited by a spark plug and a working stroke occurs. Next – release, compression, then the cycle repeats. Unlike gasoline engines, in a diesel engine the mixture is ignited by high pressure. It will enter the combustion chamber using spray nozzles. In addition, the glow plug is switched on, which heats the fuel to the required temperatures.

But if they fail, the diesel unit is unable to start normally. The glow plug significantly simplifies the process of igniting the fuel and, accordingly, starting the engine. If the diesel engine does not, then the control relay is broken and the spark plug does not heat up the diesel fuel. The action of this element does not stop until the coolant temperature reaches operating values. The glow plug often saved car owners when starting the engine in winter.

We also note that, in addition to the ignition method, such engines differ in the design of the fuel system. And if gasoline ones have a simple submersible pump, here there are two of them: one of low pressure and the other of high pressure. Well, let's look at why diesel is not “hot”.

Air leak

Very often, the cause of poor engine starting can be a banal air leak. From our experience, it most often occurs through the intake pipe in the tank or through a failed separator cover. To check for air leaks in the fuel system, it is necessary to replace the fuel pipe from the filter to the injection pump with a transparent hose.

Bubbles in the fuel will immediately indicate the presence of air leaks. As we have already said, it is necessary to check the separator cap and the intake pipe in the tank, as well as all connections of the fuel pipes.

What to do if not with a Cummins engine?

Problems with starting in cold weather are one of the main disadvantages of all diesel engines. This problem is a consequence of the peculiarities of their design and operating principle, and therefore cannot be solved fundamentally. However, there are workarounds that are quite effective.

For example, in Cummins engines, unlike conventional diesel units, the fuel supply is regulated by an electronic control unit rather than a mechanical fuel pump. Thanks to this, in American engines a more homogeneous air-fuel mixture is achieved, which ultimately facilitates its self-ignition. However, this does not completely solve the problem, and in severe frost even a Cummins engine can be capricious.

Causes of cold start problems

Before you begin to consider starting methods in cold weather, you should make sure that the car itself is in good working order, since the cause of the problems may be a breakdown, and not frosty weather at all.

In order for the Cummins diesel unit on the GAZelle to start, you need to spin the crankshaft to 150-200 rpm. It is the inability to achieve this indicator that is the main obstacle to launching. Here are the main reasons why you cannot spin the crankshaft:

1. Low compression. It is not possible to achieve the required air pressure in the engine cylinders, which does not allow it to be heated to the auto-ignition temperature of the fuel.
2. Clogged injectors. The opposite situation is that the air heats up to the required values, but no fuel enters the cylinder through clogged injectors, and therefore there is no self-ignition.
3. Low battery. There is not enough charge in the battery to provide the starter with the energy necessary to accelerate the crankshaft. As a result, the air in the cylinders cannot heat up.
4. Faulty starter. There may be many different options for why the starter failed. In any case, it needs to be removed and repaired/changed.

Starting a Cummins engine in cold weather

So, the Cummins engine and all auxiliary systems are working properly, but the Gazelle still won’t start. In severe frost conditions, this situation is not something out of the ordinary even for gasoline engines, let alone diesel engines.

The main problem is that cold fuel becomes more viscous and burns worse, and the air entering the cylinders is too cold and standard compression is simply not enough to warm it up to the desired temperature. Another problem is that engine oil also thickens in cold weather, which in turn makes it difficult for the starter to rotate the crankshaft.

Fortunately, over the last century, motorists have invented a lot of ways to start diesel engines in the cold, and some of this experience is quite applicable to modern power plants.

The very first thing to do is to use a “fresh” fully charged battery. This will give the starter enough energy to reach a high rotation speed and start the engine.

Another popular method is engine decompression. By unscrewing and disconnecting the injectors on one or two cylinders, and thereby connecting the working chamber of the cylinder directly to the atmosphere, you will sharply reduce the resistance of the pistons to the crankshaft. And when the engine starts on the remaining cylinders and warms up enough, you need to turn it off and return the injectors back. After this, the engine can be started without problems with all cylinders running.

Well, the most modern launch method is the use of special chemical aerosols consisting of flammable substances. By spraying this aerosol into the air filter pipe, you can easily start the engine.

Finally, there is an emergency method of starting the engine, which, however, due to its “barbaric” nature, should only be used in exceptional cases. The method is to spin the crankshaft not with the starter, but with the wheels. To do this, the car is towed or pushed.

Source

GAZ Gazelle 1999, 100 l. With. - breakdown

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GAZ 2217, 1997

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GAZ 2217, 2010

Comments 26

what to do the ignition does not work the snout clicks but the starter does not crank

I bought a power fuse block a long time ago, but it turned out to be a new model with 6 mm studs. And I have smaller terminals!

I need to work hard on the wiring, but it’s still cold!))

Today! I use the indicator to touch the chip of the “+” wire leading from the fuse block to the PC, it doesn’t light up, I touched the insulated terminal “it’s on”, I jumped into the cabin, I turn the key, the starter doesn’t work.

I threw a parallel wire “+” from the block and secured it to the PC, everything works!

Thank you all so much for your advice!

Does the relay click from the key? if yes, the control circuit is working.

Assuming that the starter itself is working, since it directly comes to life when shorted, a power circuit remains: a wire from the main fuse box to the relay and from the relay to the starter. Well, and, to the heap, the largest and thickest wire with + battery.

check for snot and oxidation of compounds. and that's all.

does it spin straight, but the retractor does not work, or does it click straight?

I have a small wire (which I temporarily ran in parallel) leading from the PC (in parallel) to the lilac wire, I put it on the “+” terminal on the starter and the starter turns!

Well, the retractor itself works or clicks. The nickels may just burn out, or the holding winding may burn out.

Yes, the retractor works!

And does the engine turn normally in a straight line? then the lock, the starter relay, and if there is a relay in the gap from the signaling system, then look at that too

In short, when I bought the car, I started to wash everything and discovered that a wire was laid from the starter relay (it was just dangling), I threw it away, four months later a friend came up and said there is a SHABASHKA), give the car, I say, take it of course. I left for work, he calls 2 hours later, he says the starter isn’t working, he came, he says let’s change it, and there’s a snowstorm outside, we call another friend and say melt the potbelly stove in the garage, we’re on our way, we got stuck, we transferred snow with a volume of GAZ -53)), they changed it the starter but it doesn’t work, I bought a new starter relay, again “0”, that’s where I remembered about this wire. In the end they set the starter to “RETAKES ITSELF”, the battery is new and it barely turns!

I came home tired, my father said, “You don’t have mass,” and this wire is “MASS,” and in the end I didn’t understand what the wire was. I installed the old starter and everything works!

This happened about two months ago! And today it refused again!

The ground on the retractor relay is short, it is screwed to the cabin, + goes from the fuse block through the relay to the retractor plug, control comes from the lock.

The engine should turn straight if you connect the plug on the retractor with a wire from the battery positive

if the engine does not turn, or poorly, then it is a thick mass on the body. if it is normal, then + nuts. If it clicks, it's the retaining winding. if it clicks and doesn’t turn, then nickels

To be honest! I didn’t understand! + on PC comes from the lock? The ground is short on the body! (on a PC) How to check the ignition switch?

control + ground from the lock to the body and to the engine somewhere, it looks either like a healthy pigtail or like a thick black wire, check from the lock, there is either a pink or red thin one, you can easily find it by holding the key in the starter position

Gazelle Next won't start: reasons and how to fix it

Difficult starting is associated with the need to create special conditions in the combustion chamber for self-ignition of finely atomized fuel. Diesel engines are especially difficult to start in winter.

In Cummins engines, unlike classic diesel engines, fuel is dosed using an electronic control unit, and not under the influence of mechanical injection by a high-pressure fuel pump.

This feature of the American engine improves the homogeneity of the resulting air-fuel mixture, and therefore its ability to self-ignite.

But no matter how high-tech and reliable the diesel Kamens is, at a sufficiently low air temperature, even it can fail.

Let's look at the main reasons why an engine may fail to start.

When compression drops, the air in the cylinders is not compressed to the required level, and therefore does not heat up to a temperature sufficient for self-ignition of the sprayed diesel fuel.

A fundamentally opposite malfunction, in which, as in the first case, a GAZelle with a Cummins engine does not start, is clogging of the electromagnetic injectors, as a result of which fuel simply cannot enter the hot air environment due to existing mechanical barriers.

The ISF 2.8 cylinder block is cast from gray cast iron, which ensures high strength. The cylinder liners are repairable and can also be replaced as needed. All information about this engine model is here.

A low battery charge level does not allow the starter rotor to accelerate to those cherished 150-200 rpm, as a result of which some of the air, when compressed, manages to run through the smallest cracks and gaps into the under-piston space. As a result, as in the case of compression failure, the temperature in the cylinders does not reach the required value, and fuel ignition does not occur.

But there are also cases when the battery is completely charged, but the starter is still not able to develop the required rotation speed. Problems with the starter come from various origins and often require its dismantling and careful inspection.

Disassembling the starter

If the problem is not in the retractor, let's check the starter motor itself.

We remove it from the machine and disassemble it. There is nothing particularly complicated here.

1. Unscrew and remove the retractor.
2. Remove the retractor rod.
3. Remove the starter rear cover by unscrewing the two screws securing it and removing the retaining half-ring in the center.
4. Slide the motor stator together with the housing from the studs.

Now it is necessary to closely examine the condition of the collector contact pads. If they are very worn, you can try sanding them to a smooth surface.

We look at the wear of the brushes. We change them as needed.

Using a multimeter, we check whether the windings are shorted to the housing, and that there are no internal short circuits or breaks in the windings. If there are any, we take the starter for repair or replace it with a new one. You can't do anything here without the help of others.

Let's start the engine

How to use on diesel? First of all, we think about safety measures when using such products. So first you need to have a working fire extinguisher on hand. The use of the substance for a motor with glow plugs is dangerous because the ether will flare up from the heated plugs instantly, as a result of which you can get burns and destruction of the valves if detonation occurs in the wrong phase of the piston movement in which it is necessary.

Here, for your own safety, you need to disconnect the candles from the power supply. To do this, pull out the relay from the fuse box, the relay is called “Glow plug relay”.

Now you can start using Quick Start. First, let’s decide where to spray the liquid for a diesel engine. For a diesel engine, you need to spray into the engine air intake in the following sequence:

• Be sure to shake the can to mix the substances inside it as best as possible for fifteen seconds;
• We inject into the air intake for no more than 2-3 seconds;
• We start the diesel engine with the starter, it should now start easily;
• If it doesn’t work, repeat the steps, starting with shaking the can;
• When the engine does not start twice from a quick start, this means problems with the ignition system or starter. Check the battery, alternator and starter for faults;

The starter doesn't turn at all

The problem could be:

• in the wiring;
• in the retractor;
• specifically in the starter motor.

Let's start searching for a problem with the usual one.

Let's inspect the connection

• Check anti-theft systems. Maybe they are making fun of you.
• Your battery may be running low.
• If there is a fuse for the starter circuit, check its integrity.
• Let's check whether +12 V voltage appears at the starter control contact (this is a narrow screw on the solenoid relay). If there is no voltage, then we will check the additional starter relay and the ignition switch.
• Have an assistant turn the key to the “start” position and listen. Does the starter make any sounds during all this? Maybe your solenoid relay rod is sticking. It works, indicated by a click, but its movement is limited.

Cummins Engine Troubleshooting

If, after the third (fourth) attempt, you cannot start the engine, you should seriously think about troubleshooting.

First of all, without leaving the cabin, you should make sure that the battery charge level is sufficient for the launch. If the indicator on the dashboard does not warn about a lack of accumulated electricity, they usually start checking the functionality of the injectors.

Their serviceability may be indicated by the presence of bluish smoke at the exit of the exhaust pipe, even with unsuccessful starting attempts. In the case when such smoke is not observed, the likelihood of clogging the working nozzles is very high. For more detailed diagnostics, the injectors are unscrewed from the holes in the head and checked on a special stand.

In the latter case, the engine, after repeated attempts, should start, but it will work extremely unstable with a loud, characteristic roar.

The cause of a leak in the working cylinders may be:

• wear of compression rings;
• wear of the contacting surfaces of pistons and cylinders;
• damage and wear of valve plates.

Defective parts, such as rings or pistons, are replaced with new ones, and cylinders and valves, if they are repairable, are restored or also replaced.

If, when you turn the key, the crankshaft does not start to rotate at all, it is necessary to check the reliability of the electrical circuit connections and, possibly, the functionality of the electric starter itself.

The starter makes strange noises

Crackling or grinding noise when starting the engine

This sound occurs when the starter gear does not fully engage with the flywheel ring teeth. There may be several reasons, and most of them can be easily eliminated.

• The connection between the starter and the clutch bell is loose. It happens. Just try to shake the starter by hand; if it does not fit tightly, tighten the nuts securing it to the required torque and try to start the engine. Most likely, the scary sounds will disappear.
• Insufficient starter sliding clutch movement. The gear just doesn't fit into place. Usually the culprit is a mud-covered shaft. To restore functionality, remove the starter from the car. Next, clean the shaft and lubricate it with good grease. Check the movement of the gear; there should be no jamming.
• The fork moving the sliding clutch may be to blame. It happens that it breaks or becomes deformed, although this is rare. In both cases, the plug needs to be replaced.
• The flywheel crown is corroded. You can easily see this problem by removing the starter and simply looking into the hole in the clutch bell. There are several solutions to the problem: replacing the flywheel, replacing the crown (the old one is knocked down, and the new one is heated and pressed hot onto the flywheel), you can try turning the old crown over (we heat the crown and press it off the flywheel, heat it again and press it on the reverse side).

Diesel engine, operating principle

The fundamental difference between a diesel engine and a gasoline engine is how the fuel-air mixture is formed, ignites and burns. A diesel internal combustion engine does not have spark plugs and, accordingly, ignition of the fuel-air mixture occurs from compression. At the same time, air and diesel fuel are supplied separately. It should also be noted that almost no modern diesel engine can do without a supercharging system, which is used to improve the performance of the unit. Variable geometry turbochargers are used to optimize boost over the widest possible speed range. A diesel unit has a higher efficiency, but it is heavier and produces more torque at low speeds than a gasoline internal combustion engine.

Operating principle of a diesel engine:

How does a diesel engine work and, most importantly, how does fuel ignite in the combustion chamber if this type of unit does not have spark plugs? First, air enters the cylinders. At the end of the compression stroke, when the piston has almost reached top dead center, the air temperature in the combustion chamber reaches high values ​​(about 700-800 degrees) and then diesel fuel is injected into the cylinders, which ignites independently, without spark ignition. However, there are still spark plugs in a diesel unit, but they are glow plugs, not spark plugs, which heat the combustion chamber to make it easier to start the engine in cold weather.

They are a spiral (there are metal and ceramic), can be installed in a vortex chamber or in a pre-chamber (if we are talking about units with a separate combustion chamber) or directly in the combustion chamber (if it is inseparable). When you turn on the ignition, the glow plugs almost instantly, in a matter of seconds, they heat up to temperatures in the region of a thousand degrees and heat the air in the combustion chamber, facilitating the process of self-ignition of the fuel-air mixture.

Diesel engine types:

Motors with a separate combustion chamber are widespread - fuel is injected into a special chamber in the block head above the cylinder and connected to it by a channel, and the combustion process does not occur exactly like in gasoline internal combustion engines. In this vortex chamber, the air flow swirls more intensely, which contributes to more efficient mixture formation and self-ignition, which continues in the main combustion chamber. By the way, diesel engines with a separate combustion chamber are less noisy due to the fact that the use of a vortex chamber reduces the intensity of pressure build-up during self-ignition.

Source

Low compression

If the engine throws oil out through the breather or consumes it in large quantities, and the operation of the car is accompanied by bluish smoke with a characteristic burning smell, then most likely the internal combustion engine has problems with the piston group and in particular with the piston rings.

When the piston group wears out in the cylinders, compression drops and therefore, again, the pressure in the cylinders necessary to start the engine will not be created. In such cases, only a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine will save you.

Mixture formation in gasoline engines

Basically, the preparation of a homogeneous mixture is carried out on spark-ignition engines, i.e. The intake air is completely mixed with the evaporated and atomized fuel during the intake and compression strokes. The excellent volatility of gasoline allows it to be injected into the intake manifold. On the other hand, modern engines with stratified fuel charge distribution are characterized by partially heterogeneous mixture formation.

The mixture formation process is significantly influenced by the conditions of fuel evaporation, injection pressure, movement of the fuel charge in the cylinder and the time required to homogenize the mixture. In essence, mixture formation is associated with the interaction of two processes: the evaporation of fuel droplets caused by temperature differences (see Fig. “Fuel Evaporation”) and their splitting under the influence of aerodynamic forces (see Fig. “Formation of Fuel Droplets”). Here, a distinction is made between fuel injection into the intake manifold and direct fuel injection (see table “Preparation of the working mixture in spark-ignition engines”).

Fuel injection into the intake manifold

When fuel is injected into the intake manifold, a film of fuel is created in front of the intake valve, the mass of which decreases as the air speed increases. This air speed varies linearly with engine speed. Due to the low temperature and incomplete evaporation of the fuel in the intake manifold, resulting in the formation of a fuel film, fuel injection into the intake manifold occurs at a very low injection pressure of less than 10 bar.

The dynamics of the behavior of the film adhered to the walls of the intake manifold and the mechanisms operating during evaporation are among the main reasons for inaccurate fuel dosing, especially during engine operation in transient conditions. Only small droplets of fuel captured by the air flow reach the inside of the cylinder (see Fig. “Formation of fuel droplets”). The typical droplet diameter is 30 µm. The acceleration of droplets is proportional to the speed of movement of the droplets relative to the air, depending on their diameter.

Very high degrees of turbulence and high flow speeds give very good mixing. As the process progresses, the remaining small droplets of fuel evaporate. The fuel acquires the temperature of the mixture (see Fig. “Evaporation of fuel droplets”), and the mixture is homogenized. Due to the optimal design of the combustion chamber, intense contact of the fuel with its walls is prevented, which always leads to the risk of condensation.

Direct fuel injection

In direct fuel (gasoline) injection systems, mixture formation mechanisms in the valve clearance are not used. Therefore, a higher injection pressure is required here, from 50 to 100 bar. To ensure sufficient time for homogenization, injection is carried out no later than the moment the piston reaches bottom dead center.

The injected mixture is then compressed, depending primarily on the throttle position and the engine compression ratio, to a pressure level of 10 to 40 bar. This corresponds to a temperature level from 300 to 500 °C, depending primarily on the degree of compression. In heterogeneous processes, injection occurs only at the end of the compression phase.

The advantage of direct fuel injection is its precise dosing. The process of fuel vaporization in the combustion chamber also requires proper cooling of the fuel charge in the cylinder. This allows you to increase the compression ratio by about one unit, which gives an increase in efficiency. engine.

In all combustion processes, fuel oxidation occurs only at the end of the compression phase and at the beginning of the expansion phase.

The starter does not turn on the gazelle 405 engine

Now the following has come out. I worked all day, delivering PVC windows. After unloading the last order, I was unable to start the car.

Symptoms (Symptom from Greek - case, coincidence, sign - one separate sign, frequent manifestation of any disease, pathological condition or disorder of any vital process)

. You turn the ignition key, but the starter does not work. First I checked the starter relay - it was fine. I swapped the horn relay and the starter interlock relay - it didn't help. I bent the nail with the letter P and directly closed the contacts in the block corresponding to relay contacts 30 and 87 - the starter worked and the car started. I reached home.

Tomorrow morning I'll go measure the control voltage on contacts 86 and 85 of the starter interlock relay, which lead to the engine control unit.

1. Who has encountered this and how to fix it without the help of others? 2. Could the control unit reset the options related to the starter lock?

Added after 18 minutes I'll add. You also need to check the voltage at pin 30 of the starter lock relay; the wire from this pin goes to pin 50 of the ignition switch.

I'll try to write about the results tomorrow.

In the morning I checked the circuit: ignition switch, starter interlock relay, starter relay, starter. Everything is okay. I put the relays in the space, which I had cleaned earlier in the evening. The car started up.

I read the information on the Internet, it turns out that the starter blocking relay in the Gazelle Next is normally open. When we turn the ignition key to turn on the devices, the control unit supplies voltage to the starter interlock relay. the relay is activated and turns on the circuit (ignition switch - starter relay). When we turn the key to start, current flows through this circuit to the starter relay, then the closed starter relay supplies voltage from the battery to the starter. When the engine is started, the starter disable relay opens, which prevents accidental activation of the starter.

The quickest thing I noticed was a simple lack of contact, I will keep an eye on it, since the situation is not very pleasant.

At lunchtime everything happened again. The starter does not work. Upon detailed inspection, I found that when I turn the ignition switch, I cannot hear the starter interlock relay. There is no voltage at the control contacts of this relay. And since it has normally open contacts, the starter does not turn.

Almost 15 minutes passed and everything worked.

I'll go for diagnostics on Monday. I would not like to receive tasks from a used unit, since the warranty has already expired.

Are you literally convinced that you have a starter lock relay? This relay appears after installing additional equipment

Added after 3 minutes There is a starter relay. And the ignition switch unloading relay.

Images

I checked it for the first time. Everything is unbeatable.

Now the problem has manifested itself a little differently. Once again I turned the key in the ignition, and in response there was already normal silence. Deep in thought, I didn’t let go of the key, held it for about 30 seconds, and the starter worked.

I have already checked all the circuits many times, everything is intact and in good order. But I don’t understand why this happens.

On Wednesday I was diagnosed. Maybe it will show something there.

And here’s another question: why doesn’t the ELM 237 that I have fit the Gazelle Next? A check is immediately displayed on the dashboard.

Source: next-gazel.ru

Special cases

In addition to all of the above, other adventures happen with the Gazelle 405. Many drivers do not notice how the chain on the engine jumps. Accordingly, the engine refuses to come to life until the chain is in its place.

Your task is simply to open the hood and check if the chain is in order

, if not, then put it in its place. This procedure will take you 10 minutes at best, but you will be able to start your car. Otherwise, the Gazelle 405 injector does not start due to other problems.

It is quite difficult to answer this question, so we have simply listed for you several of the most common breakdown options. You can get an accurate answer only after a thorough diagnosis. It is at this stage that you can find out the reason why the car refuses to start. Therefore, do not rack your brains and better contact a car service center.

AUTO -GAS 3302 INJECTOR 405 stalls diagnostic codes: 13 - low signal level of the air flow sensor 22 - high signal level of the coolant temperature sensor; 53 - malfunction of the angular synchronization sensor; 135 - load break in injector 2 circuit.

The following happens: Replaced the air filter, idle speed sensor. I adjusted it a little on the spot, the engine was already hot! It seems to be going, but when picking up speed of about 50 km, you need to slow down, for example, before a traffic light - the RPMs begin to drop to almost 0, and it stalls! Then I started it, drove, the situation was the same again, but before reaching 0 I accelerated in neutral (while I was driving), the gazelle picked up the speed and held it, and in 1st and 2nd gears I drove normally and braked and the acceleration did not stall, but above 2- 1st gear and subsequent braking tries to stall if I even almost give in to the throttle!! ! The next day I start it and it starts, but immediately stalls! Only again, if at the moment of starting I pick up the throttle and keep it at at least 1.5 rpm, it works. I quit the gas and it stalls! What could be the reason, I understand that it’s a bag, but still, who might have had such a problem, please tell me! There is gas equipment, but it behaves the same on both gasoline and gas (it seems better on gas - I adjusted it yesterday), on-board computer. It doesn't behave predictably at all!

Let's check the retractor

If voltage arrives at the control contact of the solenoid relay, the ground is not broken, but the starter refuses to cooperate with you and does not turn, do the following.

1. Be sure to remove the car from gear and put it on the handbrake;
2. Turn the key to the “ignition” position;
3. We take a 17mm wrench and use it to bridge the power terminals of the retractor.

If the starter spins briskly despite all this, this means there is a problem with the retractor relay itself. The easiest way would be to simply replace it with a new one, but you can try to fix it.

We remove the starter and unscrew 3 screws (2 screws for ZMZ 406) securing the retractor. We unscrew the screws securing the contact group and examine the condition of the contact “penny” and the contact pads of the bolts. Most likely, we will find a powerful burning on them. We clean the contacts and make their surface completely smooth and flat. We carry out a similar operation with a nickel. A very worn-out nickel, you can simply turn it over if this has not been done before.

We will also use a tester to check whether the relay windings are shorted to the housing and whether there are any breaks in them. If everything is normal, we put everything back together and try to start.

Combustion of the working mixture in spark-ignition engines

The progress of the combustion process can be judged from indicator diagrams that graphically show the change in pressure P in the cylinder depending on the angle φ of the crankshaft. The area of ​​the indicator diagram is proportional to the work done during the combustion of the working mixture inside the cylinder in one cycle. If the ignition is turned off, then the pressure in the cylinder changes almost symmetrically with respect to the TDC when the crankshaft rotates. (lower curve). For normal engine operation, the ignition must be turned on when a spark should occur between the spark plug electrodes. The moment of sparking corresponds to the position of point 1 on the diagram, and the pressure in the compression chamber corresponds to the ordinate P1.

The combustion process is conventionally divided into three phases.

Initial phase - Q1 begins at the moment of spark formation. A small volume of the working mixture ignites near the spark plug electrodes. It burns relatively slowly. The pressure in the cylinder during this period remains almost the same as when the ignition is turned off.

The first phase ends when 6...8% of the total volume of the mixture in the combustion chamber burns. The temperature rises so much that, starting from point 2, the pressure increases sharply, and the main phase of rapid combustion begins (section 2... 3). The flame propagation speed in the middle part of the combustion chamber reaches 60...80 m/s. Along the chamber walls, the combustion rate is lower and combustion is incomplete. The duration of the second phase for high-speed engines is 25...30° crankshaft rotation angle. In this phase, the bulk of the heat is released.

The third phase Q3 is the combustion phase of the mixture in the peripheral sections of the chamber during the expansion stroke. Point 3 is taken as the beginning of this phase. The pressure in the cylinder at this moment will be maximum.

The rate of increase in pressure along the angle of rotation of the crankshaft, or, in other words, the rigidity of engine operation, depends on the intensity of heat generation in the main phase. In modern automobile engines, the rate of pressure increase ranges from 0.12...0.25 MPa per 1° shaft rotation angle. The steeper the pressure increases in section 2..3, the harder the engine operates and the greater the wear on the crank mechanism.

The duration of the first phase depends on a number of factors.

The closer the excess air coefficient a is to the optimal value, the better the mixture composition and the shorter the duration of the first phase. If the mixture is significantly leaner, its ignition deteriorates and the engine’s efficiency decreases. The more powerful the spark discharge, the more intense the flame spread and the shorter the first phase.

The duration of the second combustion phase is influenced by the same factors as the duration of the first phase. In addition, the second phase depends on the ignition timing and crankshaft speed.

Advantages of a gazelle car with a Cummins diesel engine

The main advantages of Cummins engines include the following characteristics:

• high power;
• unpretentiousness;
• excellent power to speed ratio;
• insensitivity to overheating.

All these indicators make the Kamens engine indispensable on the roads for modern GAZ cars.

Let's see what the owners of these cars write in reviews.

Possible malfunctions of GAZelle Next

The car accelerates poorly

There are many reasons for the deterioration of dynamics, the main ones can be defined as follows.

Engine malfunction - reduced compression in one or more cylinders, coking of the exhaust system or damage to the exhaust gas catalytic converter.

Malfunction of the power system - clogging of the engine fuel injectors, fuel filter, pipes and hoses of the fuel supply system. Use of low quality fuel.

A malfunction of the supercharging system is a failure of the turbocharger or a loose fit of the system hoses on the intercooler or turbocharger pipes.

Engine management system malfunction - system sensor failure

If any sensor fails, the electronic control unit switches to working according to a backup program, allowing you to get to a garage or car service center, but at the same time the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.

Clutch slipping due to wear or malfunction of the clutch release drive.

Malfunction of the brake system - braking of one or more wheels while driving, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.

Insufficient air pressure in tires.

Vehicle overload.

Check and adjust tire pressure to normal.

Check the operation of the service brake system and parking brake

It is not necessary to remove the wheels for this. Find a flat section of the road and, in dry, windless weather, conduct a test run to determine the vehicle's run-out.

The car must be fully fueled, with only the driver in the cabin. Accelerate the car to 50 km/h, level out the speed, then switch off the gear and coast until it comes to a complete stop.

Do another run in the opposite direction. The run-out should be about 500 m.

Check clutch operation

Brake the car with the parking brake. Depress the clutch and engage first gear.

Then begin to smoothly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls, the clutch is working properly and is not slipping.

If the engine does not stall, the clutch is worn out and requires replacement (manual adjustment of the clutch in operation is not provided; wear is automatically compensated by a special device in the working cylinder of the hydraulic drive).

The engine stalled while driving

First, find out if there is fuel in the tank. Turn on the ignition and look at the fuel gauge.

If the orange fuel reserve lamp is not lit and the indicator arrow shows the presence of fuel, it can be assumed that there is fuel in the tank. Open the hood and carefully inspect the engine compartment. Pay attention to the integrity of all units. Check if all the wires are in place, if there are any torn, burnt or damaged insulation. Inspect the supply line; it may be pinched or clogged (in particular, with paraffin deposits, usually due to low quality diesel fuel or inconsistency with the operating season, in this case after parking the car for several hours in a warm room at an air temperature of at least +10° The engine starts without problems). Wax deposits typically accumulate either in the fuel filter or in the pre-filter screen in the fuel receiver module installed in the fuel tank. Clogging of filters with paraffin can also cause clogging of injectors. Check the injection system fuse installed in the mounting block (article - Replacing fuses and relays for GAZelle Next). Replace the blown fuse. Inspect the cooling system expansion tank to see if coolant has leaked.

Also check the oil level in the engine crankcase. If everything is in order, proceed to check the engine management and power systems, which are described earlier.

In addition, a sudden stop of the engine and the inability to start again can be caused by a failure of the crankshaft position sensor or a disconnection of the wiring harness block from it.

Security system and its influence on car starting

If, when you try to start the engine, the starter does not turn and the Gazelle Next does not start, then the security system may be the culprit. Working in normal mode, it protects the car from theft. Incorrect installation or failure of one of the units leads to the fact that the alarm interferes with the successful start of the internal combustion engine.

To identify problems, it is recommended to completely dismantle the security system from the car. After this, carry out a test run. If it is successful, then the culprit of the trouble is among the car alarm modules.

Cummins Engine Troubleshooting

If, after the third (fourth) attempt, you cannot start the engine, you should seriously think about troubleshooting.

First of all, without leaving the cabin, you should make sure that the battery charge level is sufficient for the launch. If the indicator on the dashboard does not warn about a lack of accumulated electricity, they usually start checking the functionality of the injectors.

Their serviceability may be indicated by the presence of bluish smoke at the exit of the exhaust pipe, even with unsuccessful starting attempts. In the case when such smoke is not observed, the likelihood of clogging the working nozzles is very high. For more detailed diagnostics, the injectors are unscrewed from the holes in the head and checked on a special stand.

If, when cranking the crankshaft, bluish smoke is still released, then most likely the cause of the problem is a compression problem. Depressurization of the cylinders can be observed on all, or on several or even one cylinder.

In the latter case, the engine, after repeated attempts, should start, but it will work extremely unstable with a loud, characteristic roar.

The cause of a leak in the working cylinders may be:

• wear of compression rings;
• wear of the contacting surfaces of pistons and cylinders;
• damage and wear of valve plates.

Defective parts, such as rings or pistons, are replaced with new ones, and cylinders and valves, if they are repairable, are restored or also replaced.

If, when you turn the key, the crankshaft does not start to rotate at all, it is necessary to check the reliability of the electrical circuit connections and, possibly, the functionality of the electric starter itself.

1. The difficulty of starting in the cold season is aggravated by an increase in the viscosity of the lubricant, which makes it difficult to achieve the required engine speed.
2. However, there are a number of ways to make it easier to start the engine at negative air temperatures.
3. Thanks to this, the starter develops a higher rotation speed, which makes the starting process easier.

Engine decompression is carried out by connecting the internal cavities of the cylinders to the atmosphere. Simply put, by unscrewing and disconnecting the nozzle.

The Cummins fuel system consists of several main elements: a fuel line, or ramp, an injection pump, a control module with a sensor system, a fuel filter, injectors, and a fuel tank.

As a rule, the manufacturer Cummins guarantees that engines will operate for at least 500 thousand km before major overhaul. But, like any equipment, engines sooner or later need repairs. Read about how to properly repair an engine here.

As a rule, one or more working cylinders are decompressed, as a result of which the resistance to rotation of the crankshaft sharply decreases. Having started the engine on the remaining cylinders and warmed it up to the required temperature, the engine is turned off, decompression is eliminated and it is started again.

However, the most progressive way to start a diesel engine in the cold season is to use chemical aerosols, which are flammable substances. Aerosols are sprayed into the air filter pipe immediately before you are about to start the engine.

Emergency way to start a Cummins engine

For example, if you are forced to stop in the cold, after the engine has cooled, you may find that the Cummins GAZelle does not start. If it is not possible to solve the problem using traditional methods, one of the old-fashioned methods will help start the engine, namely, towing the car.

At the same time, the engine crankshaft spins through the drive wheels of the vehicle. If, after several such attempts, the engine still does not start working, then during towing, they also begin to purge the cylinders, smoothly, but all the way, pressing the gas pedal.

As you can see, there are plenty of different ways to make starting a diesel GAZelle easier. But the surest and most correct decision, thanks to which you can not only start your car engine without difficulty, but also protect it from possible troubles, is to properly store the vehicle in a heated garage.

Battery problems

If it is impossible to start the power unit of a Gazelle Next car, it is first of all important to check the battery charge. When the battery is discharged, the starter assembly is unable to reach a sufficient crankshaft speed to catch the engine. The nominal speed at which the diesel starts is in the range from 150 to 200 rpm.

The reason why the starter turns poorly may be the poor condition of the battery terminals. During operation, they oxidize and their electrical conductivity decreases. This causes an increased voltage drop in the on-board network when the starter motor is connected. To solve the problem with oxides, you need to clean them. After this, the terminals are coated with conductive lubricant.

If the battery is discharged, you can start the car using a pushrod. It is not advisable to use this method often. With such a launch, increased loads on the transmission and power unit occur. The following ways to start a car are more rational:

• start using ROM;
• recharge the original battery with a nominal or increased current;
• “light” from another vehicle.

If the battery discharge occurs once or after forgetting to turn off the load, for example, the cabin lighting, then the battery should be charged and not attach much importance to the incident, continuing normal operation of the machine. If there is repeated, frequent loss of charge from the power source, the battery is subject to diagnostics. Based on its results, a decision is made on the advisability of restoring the battery. In some cases, it is more profitable to purchase a new battery.

If the diagnostics showed that the battery is working properly, but it still runs out quickly, then the problem should be looked for in the Gazelle Next on-board network. It needs to be checked for short circuits and high leakage currents. If they are detected, you should immediately begin troubleshooting. Otherwise, the risk of a car fire increases significantly.

If the case is damaged, electrolyte may partially or completely leak out of the battery cans. This leads to loss of original characteristics such as inrush current and rated charge. To monitor the condition of the battery, it is necessary to visually inspect the case for defects. If they are detected, the decision on further actions is made depending on the degree of damage and the age of the battery.

Starter solenoid relays ISF 2.8 Gazelle

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