Removing the ramp and checking the injectors of the Lada Kalina car

Fuel injection has undeniable advantages over the carburetor principle of mixture formation. First of all, this means more accurate dosing of fuel, and therefore greater efficiency and acceleration of the car and less toxicity of exhaust gases. However, the main executive part of the injection system - the nozzle - operates under difficult conditions and is therefore very demanding on maintenance.

Nozzle (injector)

— a controlled solenoid valve that ensures a dosed supply of fuel to the engine cylinders. There are injectors for central (single-point, mono) and distributed (multi-point) injection.

Control block

— an electronic unit that controls the injection system, in particular the operation of the injectors.

Nozzle device:

a — single-point injection nozzle, b — distributed injection nozzle 1 — filter, 2 — electrical connector, 3 — electromagnet winding, 4 — nozzle body, 5 — core, 6 — valve body, 7 — valve (b — valve needle), 8 — sealing ring, 9 — spray hole.
Fuel is supplied to the injector under a certain pressure (depending on the engine operating mode). Electrical impulses supplied to the injector solenoid from the control unit actuate the needle valve, which opens and closes the injector channel. The amount of fuel sprayed is proportional to the pulse duration specified by the control unit. The shape and direction of the spray torch play a significant role in the process of mixture formation and are determined by the number and location of the spray holes. Central injection.
Fuel is injected into the common intake manifold by one nozzle (for all engine cylinders), which is installed in front of the throttle valve, in the place where the carburetor should be, and is characterized by low resistance of the electromagnet winding (up to 4-5 Ohms).
Single-point injection is an intermediate step in the transition from a carburetor to distributed injection systems and was installed on cars mainly in the 80s of the 20th century. In the 90s, single-point injection was almost universally replaced by multi-point or distributed distributed injection.
Separate injectors inject fuel into the intake manifolds of each cylinder. They are located at the base of the intake pipes (at the cylinder head housing) and are characterized by a relatively high resistance of the electromagnet windings (up to 12-16 Ohms). The exception is the injectors of turbocharged engines, which have a winding resistance of up to 4-5 Ohms. On some latest generation vehicles, fuel is supplied directly into the combustion chamber (direct injection). The injectors of such engines are characterized by a high operating voltage of the electromagnet (up to 100 V).

Main signs and causes of injector malfunction.

The condition of the injectors significantly affects engine performance. The main signs of their malfunction are: jerks and dips when the load on the engine increases; insufficient power developed by the engine; unstable operation at low speeds; increased toxicity of exhaust gases. You can check the functionality of the injector electromagnet yourself by touch or using a stethoscope. Valve activation is accompanied by characteristic clicks. Valve immobility may be the result of damage to the electrical circuit, poor contact of electrical connections, lack of electrical impulse, or a break in the injector solenoid winding.

The most common malfunction of injectors is their contamination. They are located in an area exposed to high temperatures. The consequence of this is coking by the resins contained in the fuel (especially low-quality fuel), the formation of solid deposits on the injector, blocking (partially or completely) the spray holes and violating the tightness of the needle valve. In addition, general contamination of the fuel system elements (tank, pipeline, filter, etc.) leads to clogging of the injector channels and filter with sludge particles. The main way to restore normal operation of injectors is to flush them.

Replacing injectors

The difficulty in identifying problems in the operation of injectors is that the fuel system is quite branched and it is necessary to diagnose the functionality of all its parts. For example, a malfunction such as a decrease in engine power can have two reasons - failure of the injectors or exhaustion of the pump's life.

Clogged injectors can result in sudden jerking of the engine while driving or unstable idle speed. In addition, an increase in fuel consumption can be considered a sign of injector failure.

You can check the functionality of each injector even without removing them. Simply start the engine and remove the wires from the connector of each injector one by one. If immediately after removal the engine starts to twitch or stalls, then the injector is fine. If the stability of the engine does not change with removal of the wire, then the injector needs to be thoroughly cleaned or even replaced.

Technical characteristics of the VAZ-21126-77 engine

Let us remind you that in another article we determine the best VAZ engine for a modern Lada car.

Keywords: Lada Granta engine | Lada Kalina engine

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Malfunctions caused by clogging of the structure

Fuel injectors for the VAZ 2114 have rather low performance. In combination with the poor quality of gasoline at domestic gas stations, problems often arise with the VAZ engine caused by clogging of the element and their nozzles. For stable and balanced operation of the engine, it is recommended to monitor the condition of the injectors.

When the accelerator is applied sharply, dips occur, the car drives poorly on a not warmed-up engine, jerks or slows down - poor-quality system operation.

Based on the following indirect signs, we can safely say that the injectors require cleaning, and in some cases, replacement:

1. stopping the engine at idle;
2. increased gasoline consumption;
3. the motor does not produce rated power;
4. low engine response;
5. unstable operation of the power unit;
6. failures when moving.

Cleaning the VAZ system at a service station

You can clean the injectors using ultrasound by taking your VAZ to a service center. A qualified specialist using good equipment will perform this procedure, which will have a positive effect on the dispersion of the spray and increase the productivity of the structure. Cleaning at the station helps restore spray quality, which will increase engine efficiency, throttle response and power. The list of work performed at a service station may include measuring CO, adjusting idle speed, removing the rack with injectors, and measuring productivity. Next, the main procedure is ultrasonic cleaning, as well as replacing the fuel filter and system seals.

Injectors for VAZ 2114

Removing an element

But all this pleasure costs money, and high-quality work at a good service station costs a lot. Therefore, there is an alternative - cleaning the system with your own hands

First, let's pay attention to the features of dismantling injectors

• First, remove the fuel rail.
• Unfasten the wiring block (by pressing on the bracket).
• Using a screwdriver, disconnect the injector retainer.
• Extracting the elements.
• We remove the O-rings, since they are squeezed out and new ones must be installed during reassembly.

During dismantling and reassembly, no damage to the nozzles or entry into the system is allowed. In order to install new injectors on the ramp, you need to do everything the same, but only in reverse order.

Do-it-yourself system cleaning

Cleaning the structure without your car visiting a VAZ service center can be done in two ways.

In the first case, you must first buy an injector and carburetor cleaner and o-rings for the system.

After removing the injectors from their regular places, we lower them into a suitable container with injector cleaner. We separately clean the IAC using a carburetor spray. A layer of resin is formed around the nozzle on the structure, which must be carefully cleaned by periodically washing it with a spray.

We carry out internal cleaning using a pump and a power source with a voltage of 3 to 12 volts. We pour cleaner into the pump hose and pump the nozzle under a pressure of 6 atmospheres, simultaneously applying voltage. The voltage can be raised to 9-12 volts until a characteristic crackling sound appears.

Next, in reverse order, we put everything back in place, connect the block and we can start the VAZ engine.

The second method is more economical, but more troublesome. We only purchase liquid for cleaning carburetors. Pour the spray into the pump hose and connect the latter to the system.

A high-quality carburetor spray can provide excellent external reading of the injector, but it will take longer to tinker and soften the coking. Next, we apply voltage to the injector in jerks until it crackles and perform internal cleaning. When installing the injectors in their original place, it is advisable to carefully lubricate the new seals with soapy water, which will increase the tightness.

Periodic maintenance and cleaning of fuel injectors will ensure stable engine operation and economical operation of a VAZ vehicle.

Troubleshooting

Despite their undeniable advantages over carburetor systems, injection engines are quite capricious, subject to the influence of many factors and have higher maintenance requirements.

Engine performance depends on the condition of the injectors. The main external signs of problems with injectors are:

• jerks and dips when accelerating the car;
• reduced engine speed;
• unstable operation at idle and low speeds;
• high content of toxic substances in the exhaust.

Checking with a stethoscope

You can carry out diagnostics yourself or contact a car service. The procedure for checking injectors with your own hands is as follows.

1. Check the valve. If it does not move, then either the injector itself or the electrical circuit is faulty.
2. If a characteristic sound is heard when the valve opens, it is working properly. If there is no sound, the valve is not working.

When diagnosing injectors, you can use a stethoscope.

1. Using a stethoscope, listen to the injectors click when idling. Listen in such a way that the clicks are not transmitted along the fuel rail to the non-working injector from the working one.
2. Make sure that the frequency of clicking sounds increases as engine speed increases. Otherwise the injector is faulty.

Video: checking injectors with a stethoscope

Checking with a multimeter

A multimeter is a special device for diagnosing electrical circuits.

1. In the technical documentation, find the resistance value of the injectors installed on your car.
2. Disconnect the wires from the injectors.
3. Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode.
4. Connect the multimeter contacts to the injectors.
5. Measure the injector resistance.

The normal impedance of injectors with low resistance should be 2–5 Ohms, with high ones – 12–17 Ohms. If the values ​​do not match, the injector is replaced with a new one.

Testing at the stand

The stand can have a different design, it can be expensive or cheap. Simple stands can be found in private garages. They are used to check the pressure of the injectors. Professional stands allow you to most accurately diagnose and adjust injectors. Such equipment is usually available only in service centers.

Professional injector testing stand

As a simple stand for checking injectors, you can use the MTA-2 mechanical tester. With its help, you can easily check the condition of the injectors, pressure, fuel injection pump. There is no need to disassemble the engine.

The Bosch stand is more expensive and complex. Many experts call it the standard of quality for diagnosing injection pump. The stands “Delphi”, “Hartridge”, “Rabotti” and others also show good results.

How to clean injectors without removing them from the engine?

Usually, the most common problem with TFs is their improper or untimely cleaning, as a result of which they become clogged. There are three types of cleaning:

To clean the injectors without removing them, it is usually enough to select and pour a chemical composition into the fuel tank that can normalize operation. From time to time it is recommended to accelerate the engine to high speeds and speeds of 110–140 km/h on flat sections of the road. When covering a distance of 10–25 km in this mode, the system undergoes “self-cleaning” under load.

However, such methods are effective only for minor stains. Large lesions must be removed using ultrasound or high pressure. And in order to prevent this, it is necessary to wash the fuel filter every 40–50 thousand kilometers.

You can visually familiarize yourself with the technique of checking injectors with your own hands in the video:

The fuel system operates on the principle of forced injection of fuel into the engine cylinders through fuel injectors. It's called an injector. Unlike a carburetor, fuel here is mixed with air in a certain proportion, forming a mixture. It is injected by injectors in measured portions into the intake manifold or directly into the cylinder.

A nozzle is a sprayer that is controlled by an electric or mechanical valve.

After 100 thousand mileage, the question arises of checking or replacing this mechanism. You can do it yourself without resorting to the help of specialists.

The full operating cycle consists of four steps, the start of which is controlled by the electronic control unit of the on-board computer:

• Pressure acts on a closed valve;
• The valve begins to open;
• Full valve opening, fuel mixture injection;
• The portion is injected, the pressure has decreased, the valve has returned to its original position.

Theory, operating modes

All implemented technological changes in motors must be considered as a set of measures aimed at improving performance, effective savings and advantages over competitors.

Injection for mass-produced vehicles was widely introduced more than 15 years ago. Many vehicle owners have no idea what changes have taken place in the fuel supply system in order to bring the engine's capabilities to perfection, and thereby reduce emissions of harmful substances. For the most part, the entire design is quite simple, but is complicated by the presence of a large number of parts and sensors that create a single whole of the entire complex.

Advantages of the fuel injection system:

• maintaining constant pressure in the system;
• fine spraying of the mixture;
• fuel injection is available “as used”;
• the operation of the complex does not depend on the operation of the engine;
• several injections into the cylinder are possible to ignite the mixture;
• reduction of exhaust emissions;
• reducing particulate matter pollution;
• noise reduction;
• fuel efficiency;
• maximum performance.

Interchangeability

This issue is quite relevant, especially taking into account the cost of original products from the imported automobile industry. But it’s not so simple here, let’s give an example

In the first production models of the Gorky Automobile Plant, the injection Volgas were equipped with a BOSCH air flow sensor. Somewhat later, imported sensors and controllers replaced domestic products.

A – imported filament air flow sensor manufactured by Bosh (pbt-gf30) and its domestic analogues B – JSCB “Impuls” and C – APZ

Structurally, these products were practically no different with the exception of several design features, namely:

• The diameter of the wire used in a wirewound thermistor. Bosch products have a diameter of 0.07 mm, and domestic products have a diameter of 0.10 mm.
• The method of fastening the wire differs in the type of welding. For imported sensors this is resistance welding, for domestic products it is laser welding.
• Shape of a thread thermistor. Bosh has a U-shaped geometry, APZ produces devices with a V-shaped thread, and products from JSC Impulse are distinguished by the square shape of the thread suspension.

All the sensors given as an example were interchangeable until the Gorky Automobile Plant switched to film analogues. The reasons for the transition were described above.

Film air flow sensor Siemens for GAZ 31105

It makes no sense to give a domestic analogue to the sensor shown in the figure, since outwardly it is practically no different.

It should be noted that when switching from filament devices to film devices, most likely, it will be necessary to change the entire system, namely: the sensor itself, the connecting wire from it to the ECU, and, in fact, the controller itself. In some cases, the control can be adapted (reflashed) to work with another sensor. This problem is due to the fact that most filament flowmeters send analog signals, while film flowmeters send digital signals.

It should be noted that the first production VAZ cars with an injection engine were equipped with a filament air flow sensor (made by GM) with a digital output; examples include models 2107, 2109, 2110, etc. Now they are equipped with a BOSCH 0 280 218 004 mass air flow sensor.

To select analogues, you can use information from official sources or thematic forums. As an example, below is a table of the interchangeability of mass air flow sensors for VAZ cars.

Compatibility table for mass air flow sensor for the VAZ model range

The presented table clearly shows that, for example, the MAF sensor 0-280-218-116 is compatible with VAZ 21124 and 21214 engines, but is not suitable for 2114, 2112 (including those with 16 valves). Accordingly, you can find information on other VAZ models (for example, Lada Granta, Kalina, Priora, 21099, 2115, Chevrolet Niva, etc.).

As a rule, there will be no problems with other brands of cars of domestic or joint production (UAZ Patriot ZMZ 409, Daewoo Lanos or Nexia), choosing a replacement mass air flow sensor for them will not be a problem, the same applies to products of the Chinese automobile industry (KIA Ceed, Spectra, Sportage etc.). But in this case, there is a high probability that the MAF pinout may not match; a soldering iron will help correct the situation.

The situation is much more complicated with European, American and Japanese cars. Therefore, if you have a Toyota, Volkswagen Passat, Subaru, Mercedes, Ford Focus, Nissan Premiere P12, Renault Megane or another European, American or Japanese car, before replacing the mass air flow sensor, you need to carefully weigh all the solution options.

If you are interested, you can search online for an epic about an attempt to replace the “native” air meter with an analogue on a Nissan Almera H16. One attempt resulted in excessive fuel consumption even at idle.

In some cases, searching for an analogue one will be justified, especially if you take into account the cost of the “native” VU meter (for example, the BMW E160 or Nissan X-Trail T30)

Number of injector Kalina 8 valves

Kachan

I have a turquoise BOSCH stock, for example, 1.5 16V engine with return, RTD at 3 atm

Kachan

I have a turquoise BOSCH stock, for example, 1.5 16V engine with return, RTD at 3 atm

Briefly tell me what to put instead of 996?

Briefly tell me what to put instead of 996? You have to remember it just in case. I have these and the ramp is square in cross section.

Briefly tell me what to put instead of 996?

Briefly tell me what to put instead of 996? You have to remember it just in case. I have these and the ramp is square in cross section.

Kachan
AMAROCK
And no one likes Siemens forces

Yes, it has long been the custom to believe that Siemens is better than BOSCH. Some say the spread is large, others say the needles stick, leak, etc. In short, since then, wherever I see them, people are asking about BOSCH

Yes, it has long been the custom to believe that Siemens is better than BOSCH. Some say the spread is large, others say the needles stick, leak, etc. In short, since then, wherever I see them, people are asking about BOSCH

I have no prejudices, but Kachan says that they are not suitable.

These are not, but others will do just fine. There are 4-hole Siemens under the S/O Stopudov ramp, I saw it in person on the display.

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Operation of dirty injectors

If the elements are clogged, this can be felt by the reduced specific power of the car engine. Then detonation will occur at the moment of acceleration. The symptoms of dirty injectors are especially pronounced at idle speed. Engine operation becomes unstable, the starting of the power unit deteriorates, and fuel consumption increases. The exhaust becomes more toxic. It is best to diagnose the operation of injectors at a service station.

If diagnostics by specialists reveal that the main cause is the injectors, then they need to be washed. There are options when the elements are removed for cleaning. But it is also possible to wash the injectors without removing them from the engine. For those who will do it themselves, it is better to choose the second option. Naturally, if you disassemble the motor and remove the parts, the process of cleaning them is greatly facilitated. But this is not always convenient.

Causes and symptoms of malfunctions of the seven injection nozzles

Injectors are one of the most important parts of the fuel injection system. If it fails, which happens extremely rarely, the operation of the engine is disrupted. Most often, fuel injectors become clogged, which occurs due to contact with aggressive media. An aggressive environment is not only the fuel, but also the burned fuel assemblies. Before cleaning the injectors on a VAZ 2107, you need to determine by the signs that diagnostics of these particular parts is required:

1. At idle, unstable operation of the internal combustion engine is observed.
2. When trying to move away, the engine stalls.
3. Reduced power and agility.
4. When moving, jerks and dips occur.
5. Excessive amount of exhaust gases from the muffler.
6. Increased fuel consumption.
7. Extraneous sounds and noise are observed when the engine is running.

If these signs are detected, you will need to check the condition of the injectors. The reason for their clogging is low-quality gasoline, which causes deposits to form on the walls. If your car has a faulty or missing fuel filter, then the need to clean the fuel nozzles arises quite often.

After removal, you will need to check the devices, or rather their condition. How to check the injectors on the seven, we will figure it out in the next section. If diagnostics show that they are unsuitable for use, they will need to be replaced.

Device diagnostics

To make sure that the injectors need to be cleaned or replaced, you will need to first perform some diagnostic procedures:

Removal and replacement

Now we’ll talk specifically about how to properly remove and replace old injectors that have lost their usefulness with new units.

First, a good video instruction, and below in the text, step by step, how to proceed.

The process of dismantling each of the 4 injectors is identical, so there will be no difference in the process.

Perhaps the most problematic step in replacing or cleaning injectors is dismantling the fuel rail. Therefore, we will separately tell you how this knot is removed.

Fuel rail

The fuel rail is the bar on which the injectors are installed. It is secured with a pair of bolts on the intake manifold. To the left of the ramp there is a fuel pressure control fitting. To remove it you need:

• Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Nobody needs short circuits;
• Relieve pressure in the fuel line;
• Remove the air filter and disconnect the intake pipe hose, then remove the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator;
• Disconnect the power supply wire from the idle speed sensor. To do this, simply press out the pad retainer, made of plastic;
• Disconnect the block with the wires coming from the injectors;
• Disconnect the drain and supply hoses from the fuel pipes;
• Unscrew the pair of mounting bolts that secure the fuel rail to the intake pipe;
• The fuel pipes are held in place by a special holder, which requires unscrewing one mounting screw to remove;
• Remove the fuel rail by sliding it along the axis of the fuel nozzles. This way they will come out of their seat on the intake pipe;
• Assembly is performed in reverse order.

Ramp dismantling

Please note that under the fuel rail mounting bolts there are washers that must be returned to their place during reassembly or replaced with similar new ones. If you need to add a video on removing and installing the ramp and injectors, write in the comments below

If you need to add a video on removing and installing the ramp and injectors, write in the comments below.

1. First, remove the fuel rail from your vehicle.
2. Next, the ramp is laid on a flat surface, after which the wiring block is disconnected from the damaged injector. To remove it, you need to compress the spring mounting bracket and then disconnect the block.
3. Using a screwdriver, slide the metal retainer toward the fuel rail. It serves to fix the fuel nozzle. For some reason, many people remove the lock completely. There is no need for this. Just move it a little to the side.
4. Take the nozzle in your hand and rock it slightly to the sides. So it should come out of the fuel rail without any problems.
5. At the same time, be sure to check the current condition of the sealing rings of the fuel atomizer body.
6. The sealing ring of the nozzle spray element is checked in the same way. To do this, you need to pry both rings with a screwdriver and see if they are worn out.
7. In the case of fuel injectors, there is no need to change the O-rings when replacing the injectors themselves if they are in good condition. Only if you are going to reuse them, be sure to lubricate the rings with oil before installation. Motorized, of course.
8. When the nozzle is removed and the rings are replaced (or the old ones are left), you can begin installing new devices. The procedure is performed in reverse order.
9. Insert the nozzle into the hole on the fuel rail and secure it with the clamp.
10. Return the block with the wires to its place, and install the fuel rail in its rightful place.

Disconnect the wiring block

Replacing injectors is not always the only and rational way to restore the performance of fuel atomizers. Try cleaning them. This is not a difficult matter, but the savings are impressive.

Removing the fuel rail and injectors, checking VAZ-2107-20 injectors

The fuel rail of the VAZ-2104 engine serves to supply fuel to the injectors and is mounted on the intake pipe. On the top of the ramp, next to the injector of the 3rd cylinder, there is a fitting for monitoring the fuel pressure.

The pressure regulator, attached to the rail, changes the fuel pressure in the rail from 2.8 to 3.2 bar (280-320 kPa) depending on the vacuum in the receiver, maintaining a constant pressure difference between them. This is necessary for accurate dosing of fuel by injectors.

The injectors are electromagnetic valves that allow fuel to pass through when power is applied and are closed by the action of a return spring when power is de-energized. At the end of the injector there is a nozzle through which fuel is injected into the intake pipe. The injectors are sealed in the ramp and in the intake pipe with rubber rings; it is recommended to replace them each time the injector is dismantled. The controller controls the injectors. If there is a break or short circuit in the winding, the injector should be replaced. If the injectors become clogged, they can be washed at a special service station without dismantling them.

We carry out the work on a cold engine. Relieve pressure in the fuel system.

Unfasten or cut the plastic clamp securing the injector wire block to the front panel.

To replace the injector o-rings, use a screwdriver with a thin blade and remove the o-rings and nozzle.

We dismantle the other injectors in the same way.

To check the injectors, we connect the block of their wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the engine management system, and connect the fuel hoses to the tubes of the ramp and pressure regulator.

We install the electric fuel pump fuse in the relay and fuse block of the engine control system.

The shapes of the spray patterns, as well as the amount of fuel injected by each injector over a certain period of time, should not differ noticeably.

We check each injector separately by placing a transparent bulb under it and disconnecting the wire block from it. We supply 12V voltage from the battery with two wires to the injector and turn on the ignition.

After turning off the power from the injector, check whether fuel is leaking through the nozzle holes.

If the injector's electrical resistance is not correct, the performance and spray pattern are very different from other injectors, or if the injector is leaking, it will need to be replaced.

Install the ramp in reverse order. We replace damaged rubber O-rings with new ones and apply engine oil to them during installation. The tightening torque of the ramp mounting screws is 9–13 Nm, and the fuel pipe fittings are 20–34 Nm.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=WvQqW1Nnhbs

Sources

• https://mylada.net/remont/chistka-forsunok-vaz-2114-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://www.iva-soft.ru/base/VAZ/Articles/1/
• https://autoruk.ru/2101-2107-klass/vaz-2107-20/proveriaem-i-zameniaem-forsunki

Cleaning injectors. VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115

Cleaning the electromagnetic injectors of the power system using ultrasound allows you to restore their performance by 90%, namely:

• improve dispersion (reduce the size of a fuel droplet when spraying);
• increase performance and lead to uniform fuel consumption between all engine injectors;
• restore the spray pattern.

The result: improved efficiency, “reception” at low speeds and, as a result, power.

The scope of work includes the following procedures:

• measurement of CO, CH and engine idle speed;
• dismantling the fuel rail with injectors;
• checking the performance and tightness of injectors;
• cleaning in an ultrasonic bath;
• replacing your own fuel filter and rubber injector seals;
• control check of performance and tightness;
• adjustment of CO, CH and idle speed after installation on the engine.

Cleaning injectors at home

The first method What to do, what to look for if the exhaust pipe slams at XX, there are dips when you press the gas sharply, it drives poorly and jerks when cold, and all sorts of similar things. There were no clear and specific answers. Rejoice, now it’s clear! You need to clean your injectors.

Before this, the spark plugs and wires were replaced twice, there were thoughts about replacing all the filters ahead of schedule and alternately replacing the engine temperature sensors, intake air, LZ, etc. The following is the procedure described by Frontier:

I'm tired of the stupidity and gluttony. ~10-11l/100km in all modes - city, highway, etc. It was purchased: Winn injector cleaner (70 rubles), a domestic carb cleaner (spray - 50 rubles), 1 spare ring-seal for the injector, just in case, but was not needed (46 rubles).

I removed the barrel with two pipes (IAC). I disconnected the strip with the wires from the injectors, first removing the clamps at the bottom.

I poured Winns into a jar and threw the nozzles in there to soak. In the meantime, I took the IAC and cleaned it out too with a spray.

It must be said that the injectors turned out to be covered with a kind of coke around the nozzle, a type of resin, which is difficult to pick out. I picked out all the coke cleanly, and VERY carefully, with a blunt needle, the funnel-shaped surface around the nozzle, periodically blowing off the muck with a spray. In short, first - everything that is outside.

Then I took a Chinese 3-12 volt power supply, a foot pump, removed the end from the hose from the pump, poured Winns into the hose, put it on the nozzle, pumped it up to 6 atm, and gave the nozzle 3 volts. (By the way, at first all 4 injectors needed to be given 6-9 volts briefly once; after 3 they didn’t click). It is better to give the voltage in portions, pumping it up with a pump, I think this is better.

I pumped each injector a little longer just to be sure, and put everything back in the reverse order. I started it and realized that all the problems with the engine were caused by poop, which was everywhere - remove any hose. Even XX became somehow rocky, low in tone. I drove home like that without the gas pedal, I used to stomp it to the floor. Yes, I changed the spark plugs at the same time.

I'm about to get to the fuel filter.

Second way

A slightly improved procedure with reduced costs: There is no need to buy liquid for cleaning injectors (I bought it, but it cleans very poorly), just buy a carburetor cleaning spray, it cleans much better. Accordingly, it is necessary to fill the pump hose with a spray, not a liquid, to clean the injectors.

I cleaned the carbon deposits from the top of the nozzle as follows: spray the spray onto a clean cloth and rub the nozzle with it. The carbon deposits are softened and washed off; to speed up the process, you can use a screwdriver. When installing the injectors back, it is necessary to lubricate the O-rings with soapy water. At the same time, they fit perfectly into the holes.

The result of the procedure exceeded all expectations. I didn’t even think that a car could drive like that (now I believe in the stories that were told recently about Muscovites overtaking old foreign cars). The exhaust is smooth, cold drives like hot. There are absolutely no dips, and in 2nd gear on clean asphalt, when you press the gas sharply, both front wheels slip.

The whole procedure took 2 hours and 100 rubles.

Search

There are two ways to clean nozzles

at home There are two ways to clean the nozzles at home

. This will be discussed in this article.

It often happens that on your next trip, when you press the accelerator pedal, you suddenly feel a breakdown or, for example, the car begins to “slip”, and in bad weather it moves very poorly. Well, all this points to the need for a quick cleaning of the injectors. How to clean injectors using viburnum? | Lada. Of course, there are many service stations these days, so you can go straight there. There, specialists will carry out ultrasonic cleaning.

Using an industrial method, you can restore 90% efficiency. Improves dispersion. This means that the fuel droplet size decreases as you cut. Productivity also increases, and fuel begins to be consumed evenly by the nozzles . And, importantly, the sprayer has been restored. This improves engine efficiency, the "response" is noticeable at low speeds, and this has a positive effect on the increase in power.

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maintenance stations, a list of services will be offered immediately. I want to know how to check the engine on the injector using. They are ready to measure CO and CH, check the engine at idle, and disassemble the fuel rail. The nozzles will be checked for tightness and performance twice (at the end of the work they will be checked) and will be cleaned with ultrasound. Specialists will also replace the fuel filter and rubber seals. nozzles

. Once the engine is installed, station personnel will adjust the CO and CH as well as the engine at idle.

But there is one problem, all the work of the maintenance

It costs money, and sometimes quite a lot.

Often, motorists love not only to drive their car, but also to “lift it themselves.” On the one hand, this is even a plus, because the costs will be much lower.

How to clean injectors at home

at your discretion?

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VAZ 2110: flushing the injector yourself

Flushing the injector VAZ 2110

From a practical point of view, an injector is a nozzle that sprays gasoline in small drops and a wide stream. This, in turn, allows the fuel to distribute evenly throughout the engine cylinders and interact with the air. Sometimes the efficiency of the injector system is significantly reduced. In this case, on a VAZ 2110, flushing the injector will allow you to restore the previous technical and functional characteristics of the car’s engine. In addition, on a VAZ 2110 you can wash the injector calmly and on your own.

Number of injector Kalina 8 valves

Recently, AvtoVAZ has significantly expanded the range of injectors installed on the assembly line.
Currently, 4 types of Siemens Deka injectors are “seen” on VAZs: “thin” 20734 (orange) / 20735 (blue) and “thick” 6393 (beige) / 20734 (yellow). The situation with the same number of injectors of different design is incomprehensible, but it is a fact. BOSCH injectors with catalog numbers 0 280 158 502 and 0 280 158 022 are also installed.

These injectors have so far been encountered only once on the Kalina car.

“Thin” Siemens differ in the location of the nozzles, in 20734 all 4 nozzles are located in the same plane in a cone-shaped recess, and in 20735 they are spaced apart in pairs in two different planes (see photo). Such injectors are called “double-flare”, each torch pours fuel onto “its own” inlet valve, and not onto the partition between them.

“Thick” Siemens Deka nozzles are available in two types: 6393 (beige) and 20734 (yellow). It is unclear what caused the use of the same code (20734) for structurally different injectors. I don’t want to think that there weren’t enough numbers or imagination :). There is an assumption that the “thin” nozzles for some reason did not suit Siemens-Deka and they were replaced with ordinary ones.

No clear relationship has been found at this time between engine type and installed injectors. At this time, statistics are being collected on installed injectors on different engines. At the moment, the generalized table looks like this:

Source

Service Manual

To ensure that electrical work does not cause trouble, the car owner must at least understand the electrical circuit of the VAZ. If a malfunction occurs in the operation of a particular equipment, using a diagram you can find out what the problem is and where to look for the cause. In some cases, a problem in the operation of certain devices can be solved by reconnecting the plug (if we are talking about poor contact of the device with the electrical network).

In practice, our compatriots often encounter problems with the operation of relays - the contact legs of these components can burn out as a result of voltage surges in the electrical network. Even if the relay legs are intact, but the equipment does not work, the device must be dismantled and disassembled - perhaps the contacts are burnt inside. If necessary, they can always be cleaned with a wire brush or sandpaper.

To prevent the battery from discharging, the battery must be recharged from time to time, especially before the onset of cold weather and at the end of winter. During the cold season, batteries discharge the fastest; this happens due to frost, so with the onset of winter, car owners often face the problem of starting the engine in the morning. If you doubt the battery's performance, you can try testing it with a multimeter; to do this, connect the tester probes to the battery terminals. Ideally, with the engine running, the battery voltage should be between 13.5 and 14 volts. If the resulting value is less or more, this indicates that the battery is not operating correctly.

Checking Lada Priora injectors

As mentioned above, both the fuel system ECU and the injector itself can fail. To carry out a complete diagnosis of the ECU, special software is required, which the average motorist simply does not have. Therefore, the only option is to diagnose the machine at a service center. The program, connected to special equipment, will quickly detect ECU errors and correct them.

A full check of Priora injectors is possible only on a special stand

And if problems arise in the mechanical part of the injector, then the diagnostic program will be useless. The maximum that it can do is indicate which cylinder is not working correctly. After this, the car owner can only replace the failed injector on the specified cylinder, since these devices cannot be repaired.

Cleaning injectors at home

Depending on the condition of the fuel system and the mileage of the engine, several methods can be used to restore the functionality of the fuel injectors. Of course, at any time you can give the car for service, but if you clean it yourself, we will save a fair amount, which we will always find somewhere to put it. Still, before cleaning the injectors, you should make sure that the problem is with them, and not with the control electronics or a banal lack of contact on the connector.

Cleaning injectors at the service

Several ways

There are several ways to restore the performance of injectors, and the first of them is the most bloodless - the use of cleaning fuel additives. The nice thing about this method is that all you have to do is add a cleaning additive to the tank. If the fuel system is not very dirty, the additive can clean the fuel rail and restore the injectors. If the mileage of the engine has exceeded a hundred thousand, then the injectors may need not only cleaning, but also replacement. As a rule, the fuel system is cleaned at intervals of 40-50 thousand kilometers, and if the operation is carried out systematically, the injectors will last much longer.

Tools and materials for cleaning injectors

The operation of cleaning the injector without special equipment (ultrasonic baths and fuel stands) will go quickly and efficiently if you have a few necessary tools and a simple homemade device on hand. The device is a simulator of the operation of an injector in combat conditions, that is, the injector removed from the engine will be visually diagnosed, washed and fully prepared for further use. For washing it is useful:

1. Five cc disposable syringe.
2. Aerosol for carburetor cleaning from any manufacturer.
3. Two meter wires of any section.
4. 12 volt lamp.
5. Single position switch or push button.

It would also be a good idea to buy rubber O-rings for the injectors and have a standard set of tools.

Removing the fuel rail

Naturally, we will not be able to clean the injectors on the engine in this way, so we will have to dismantle them. To do this, it is not necessary to remove the receiver and throttle; it can be removed only if it needs cleaning, and we dismantle the injectors using a simple algorithm:

1. Relieve pressure in the fuel system. To do this, we turn off the electric motor of the fuel pump drive in any way (either by removing its fuse or by disconnecting the power cord manually). After this, we start the engine and let it run until it stops completely and all the gasoline in the system is exhausted.

Relieve pressure and drain fuel

Remove the power terminal block from the fuel rail

Unscrew the fuel supply pipe nut

Unscrew the ramp mounting brackets

Dismantling the ramp with injectors

Remove the injector from the fuel frame

Assembling a simple cleaning device

We assemble a simple device for cleaning injectors. It works this way: the nozzle is inserted into a five-cc syringe, and on the other side, liquid is supplied into it from a can under pressure. All that remains is to open the solenoid valve in the injector. To do this, we temporarily supply 12 volts from the battery using a breaker button. The switch is installed on the positive wire, the load lamp is installed on the negative wire.

Homemade device for cleaning VAZ-2114 injectors

The cleaning process itself is carried out until the cleaning liquid comes out of the nozzle clean, forming a neat torch rather than a stream. If liquid comes out of the nozzle in a stream, the nozzle is not yet completely cleaned. The method is quite effective, however, it has one significant drawback - we will not be able to check the performance of the injector. Assembling the fuel rail is performed in the reverse order, and when installing the rail in place, it is still advisable to replace the O-rings with new ones.

Ultrasound or chemicals for cleaning the injector?

So, it was decided that the injectors and injector needed to be cleaned. Which method should I choose? Common methods are washing the injector without removing the injectors or cleaning the injector on an ultrasonic bench. The cleaning efficiency of the second method is several orders of magnitude higher, but in this case, except for the nozzles, nothing else is cleaned. For VAZ cars, sometimes cleaning is not the right solution. It is much easier and cheaper to simply replace the injectors.

Today, simple single-circuit installations are used for washing and cleaning. These are containers in which the solvent is located. The unit is placed next to the machine. A hose is connected to the inlet of the fuel rail to inject the product into the system. The cleaner, which acts as both a cleaning agent and a fuel, is supplied to the system by a compressor.

But there is a drawback: this method does not allow the cleaning fluid to pass through the pressure regulator and shut-off valve. This is ineffective and does not flush out the fuel system. Double-circuit stands are much more efficient, since the cleaning liquid passes through all fuel systems. As for ultrasound, it began to be used back in 1985. A bath for such cleaning is a container with a cleaner. An ultrasonic emitter is installed at the bottom of this bath.

The disadvantage is that you only need to clean the injector nozzle. And modern sprayers cannot be cleaned using ultrasound. And this process is quite labor-intensive.

It is preferable to use imported solvents as a cleaner for injectors and injectors. They are of high quality. These are, for example, injector cleaning products such as the German Liqui Moly, the Belgian Winns or the American Hi-Gear. Domestic products were also tested, but neither “Toilet duckling” nor “Moidodyr” were suitable for these purposes.

Cleaning petrol injectors

To prevent contamination from causing engine problems, you need to clean them periodically. This increases their performance and engine efficiency.

You can get by by adding any additives to the fuel. They will dry clean the inside. You can clean each nozzle by first dismantling the part. Cleaning is carried out using ultrasound, mechanical and chemical.

It is better to take the cleaning composition in a spray can.

— prepare a contact button, a syringe, a tube extending the end of the syringe, and a large container. From any telephone charger, cut off the plug; you only need the wire and contact wires with their terminals.

— Insert the nozzle neck into the end of the syringe, from its rear side.

— connect the wires to the button, then to the charging wire from the mobile phone, which is plugged into a socket (220V).

— insert the tube into the spray nozzle of the cleaning agent can, and place the opposite part of the nozzle into an empty container.

— press on the can, directing a stream of cleaner into the nozzle channel and activate the button by pressing, ensuring the supply of cleaner.

- repeat the jet of cleaning agent a couple more times to completely get rid of the dirt.

Cleaning without removal, in addition to using additives, is carried out in two more ways:

- increase in pressure. The revs accelerate without the car moving. Bring them up to 5000 and hold for 5 seconds. With such a load, self-cleaning occurs.

- everything is the same, but on XX. Then the load is a little less.

You need to clean the fuel filter and pump screen, as well as the gas tank.

It is recommended to clean injectors every 30 thousand mileage. This is an excellent preventative for long engine operation.

Symptoms of a problem

If you clean and maintain the injector assembly in a timely manner, they can last quite a long time. But when to clean the elements is difficult to determine, so there are a number of signs of malfunction.

• Starting the engine with difficulties or not the first time.
• Loss of power and traction.
• Troubling is a clear sign of uneven fuel supply.
• Increased consumption.
• Jerking of the vehicle in the winter season.

If the above symptoms occur, it is necessary to urgently clean the injectors. After the procedure, the performance of the car engine should return to normal. If this does not happen, then you should look for reasons in another place, such as the fuel pump, fuel filter or cylinders.

Cleaning procedure

First of all, you should remove the barrel with two IAC pipes. Then you should disconnect the strip with the wires from the injectors, after first removing the clamps from below. On the bar with the injectors, unscrew the four screws and carefully pull the bar off the injectors. How to check injectors without removing them from the engine. Signs of injector failure. Checking the winding resistance level on the injectors

The work should be done carefully so as not to damage anything due to negligence. Each injector should be pulled out in turn. Now you should take some container and fill it with Vince cleaner.

how to clean injectors. Demonstration of a faulty air flow sensor on a Kalina, Priora. The container should be convenient for washing the nozzles in it. While they are “acidifying”, you need to clean the IAC with a spray. Typically injectors are coated with coke around the nozzle. Externally, coke looks like resin. It is very difficult to pick, but it is quite possible to clean it. After the coke has been removed, use a blunt needle to very carefully clean the funnel-shaped surface around the nozzle. How to check the power supply to the injectors. This check is carried out if the injectors themselves are working, but any of the injectors do not work when the ignition is turned on. From time to time you need to use a spray to blow away everything unnecessary. After the injectors have been cleaned from the outside, they should also be rinsed well from the inside. To flush the inside of the nozzles, you will need a source with a voltage of 3-12V, a foot pump with a pressure gauge. A set of rubber rings for the injectors on the button, how do you clean the injectors? The end of the hose is removed from the pump, and the cleaner is poured into it. Then the hose is put on the nozzle. After you have pumped up to about 6 atmospheres, you should apply a voltage to the injector at 3V. Sometimes it happens that for the first time it is necessary to apply a voltage of 6-9 Volts. This is due to the fact that the injectors may not “click”. Voltage should be supplied “in portions”, periodically pumping up the pressure using a pump. Once each injector has been cleaned, they should be replaced in reverse order.

As soon as you start the engine, it will immediately become clear that all the troubles are associated with poor quality fuel. It is because of this that a lot of bad things settle in the engine. If you want to make sure of this, you just need to remove any hose and see what is inside.