How to increase oil pressure in a Priora engine with 16 valves

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Nowadays, fewer and fewer cars are equipped with an engine oil pressure sensor, if you look at budget foreign cars - I don’t even remember which ones have it. However, now there are enough cars of previous generations on the market, but they had such a sensor. For example, on some VAZ, UAZ, VOLGA, etc. Many people ask the question - what oil pressure should be in the engine, that is, what is the normal value and what is not? It is not always possible to find information specifically about your model, so this article will be useful to everyone...

You know, now manufacturers are simplifying the dashboard of cars more and more, for example, on mine ( Chevrolet Aveo T300 ) there is no longer even an engine temperature sensor, I’m already silent about the oil pressure sensor. It turns out that the manufacturers want YOU to ruin your iron horse faster, because you cannot control all the necessary parameters, and accordingly, if you operate it incorrectly, you will quickly come running to them to repair it. All this can be attributed to a conspiracy by the manufacturers. Although now they say everywhere that cars have become more reliable, different materials are used, etc., but practice shows the opposite, three to five years and it’s better to change the car. Oh, there were times - there were cars, there was complete control over the engine.

Causes of poor engine pressure

There may be several reasons for this. The most common are:

1. The oil level in the engine is lower than it should be, and therefore it does not completely enter the system.

This is how the oil in the editorial car was drained. Through the O-ring of the oil dipstick.

The oil pickup is cracked. Through such a crack, air enters the system, and viscous oil cannot reach components and sensors. The oil pump does not work well due to worn parts. There is oil loss in the lubrication system.

Inoperative oil filter.

The oil is diluted. A replacement is required, we have already written in more detail about the choice of oil for the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine.

The light may also come on when the oil pressure sensor is broken or a wire has simply come off it. In this case, you need to play it safe and double-check everything.

Low engine oil level

Checking the oil level

Oil cannot be sucked into the oil pump. In this case, there will be air at the outlet. In the VAZ-2112 engine, the oil receiver is located in the lowest part of the crankcase so that it is always immersed in oil.

If you do not regularly add oil and do not control its level, this can negatively affect the operation of the engine. The oil will also lose its properties. It will not be able to wash the rubbing parts, and will also fall on them in the form of sediment. A particularly thick mixture will clog the oil receiver mesh, preventing it from sucking in full oil.

The solution in this situation is to constantly monitor the oil level and add it. It is also necessary to carry out a complete oil change in accordance with the regulations. It is not recommended to drive more than 15,000 kilometers on one oil. The oil change on the VAZ-2112 should be done every 10,000 - 15,000 km.

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  Car engine oil pressure

Oil pickup cracked (clogged)

Cleaning a clogged oil receiver

An oil receiver is located between the pump and the oil. When it cracks, a vacuum occurs in the tube and oil cannot enter the system. The cause of such a breakdown may be engine vibration, which results in the formation of a crack. It can increase during operation, taking less and less oil. This could also be caused by a manufacturing defect. This will require a complete replacement of the part.

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Oil pump failure

Oil leak from oil pump

In this option, the pump will pump less oil into the system than it may need. As a result, the pressure in the system will not be sufficient. This will be especially noticeable when starting the engine.

Losses in the lubrication system

To distribute the oil evenly between all components that require lubrication, one pump will not be enough. This will require coordinated work of other parts. Among these we can note:

1. Oil nozzles.
2. Crankshaft bearings.
3. Gaps at the oil filter mounting location.
4. Broken bushing on the balance shaft.

Oil dilution

Since liquid oil passes through all the cracks that are in the system, the pump cannot create sufficient pressure in it. Such unsuitability of the oil may occur due to the fact that it loses its performance properties. Its additives stop working, and it can additionally be diluted with gasoline.

Oil filter failure

In the context in the literal sense of the word. Look how much dirt it filtered out. Here is the answer to the question about his role!

The filter has valves and an element that cleans the oil. When the latter becomes clogged with dirt during operation, it can no longer pass oil through itself. Then the bypass valve helps him. It is normally in the closed position. When the filter becomes clogged, oil begins to flow through the valve. But if the valve hangs in the closed position, then there is nowhere for the oil to come from in the system. In this case, the engine begins to starve of oil. The way out of this situation is to timely change the oil and filter.

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  How to check the oil pressure in the engine and what should it be?

How it works and what blocks it

The immobilizer on Priora is designed to prevent theft of a vehicle by intruders. It consists of the following parts:

• APS unit, structurally combined with electrical package.
• A sensor, the presence of a key with a “native” chip in the form of a pumping loop wound around the ignition switch.
• Connecting wires for signal transmission.
• Keys with transponder.

When purchasing a car, the owner is given a special key with a red insert, which contains a chip that allows you to train working keys, and 2 working keys with programmable chips. The training key must be kept at home, because it gives access to setting up keys that the APS will consider “native”.

After activating the immobilizer and learning the working keys, the car can be started. But, only if the anti-theft unit “sees” the key with the transponder and a code is written in the chip that matches the information stored in the non-volatile memory of the APS.

In Priora, the immobilizer works as follows:

1. When the working key is turned in the ignition switch cell, a voltage pulse is applied to an inductive coil wound around the lock, which excites electromagnetic oscillations in space.
2. The switch contains an inductance in which the current strength changes, which allows it to receive a pulse from the pump loop.
3. The capacitance is charged, supplying power to the chip with the code.
4. The chip generates a return pulse, which is emitted into space and received by the pump loop.
5. The signal enters the APS, where the codes stored in the block’s memory and the received codes are compared.
6. If the data matches, the anti-theft device does not interfere with the operation of the engine ECU. If the codes do not match, the APS goes into protective mode, transmitting a signal to the ECU, which blocks power to the fuel pump, starter and ignition of the car.

POSSIBLE REASONS FOR VAZ 2106, 2108, ZMZ 406, 405

But there are also reasons that may appear on specific cars, since there is another factor that influences the occurrence of the problem - the design features of the engine. For example, on carburetor engines of the same VAZ-2106 or 2108, fuel can penetrate into the sump through the fuel pump. This unit on such engines is mechanically driven by a timing belt.

And due to damage to the pump membranes, fuel will penetrate inside the engine and mix with the oil, diluting it and increasing the level. But on the ZMZ-406 engine, the cause of the pressure drop, in addition to those described, may be damage to the oil pump drive. Because of this, the unit simply will not function normally, which will affect the performance of the lubrication system.

Mechanical breakdowns inside the engine should not be discounted, as a result of which the operation of the lubrication system is affected. For example, a break in the timing chain tensioner shoe, for example, on the same VAZ-2106, will lead to the torn part starting to hit adjacent surfaces, knocking out small pieces of metal. The chips formed as a result of such a breakdown will enter the lubrication system, and then settle in the filter, leading to a drop in pressure in it. Or on the same ZMZ-405, the pump is driven through an intermediate shaft, which is driven by a timing chain. If the sprocket of this shaft breaks (it can rotate separately from it), the pump will stop working.

And there are enough such nuances. But in any case, without eliminating the cause of the malfunction, you should not use the car, so as not to end up with expensive repairs later.

Lost oil pressure? We look for and eliminate the cause. Repair VAZ 2101

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Causes of oil pump failure

The reason why the oil pump has failed can be determined by diagnostics. There are at least 8 main oil pump faults. These include:

• Clogged oil pickup strainer. It is located at the inlet of the pump, and its function is to coarsely filter the engine oil. Like the system’s oil filter, it gradually becomes clogged with small debris and slag (often such slag is formed as a result of flushing the engine with various means).
• Malfunction of the oil pump pressure reducing valve. Usually the piston and spring included in its design fail.
• Wear of the inner surface of the pump housing, the so-called “mirror”. Occurs for natural reasons during engine operation.
• Wear of the working surfaces (blades, splines, axles) of the oil pump gears. It happens both over time of long operation and due to rare changes of (very thick) oil.
• Using dirty or unsuitable engine oil. The presence of debris in the oil can be for various reasons - careless installation of a pump or filter, use of low-quality lubricating fluid.
• Careless pump assembly. In particular, various debris was allowed to get into the oil or the pump was not assembled correctly.
• Drop in oil level in the engine crankcase. Under such conditions, the pump operates at excessive capacity, which causes it to overheat and may fail prematurely.
• Dirty oil filter. When the filter is very clogged, the pump has to make significant efforts to pump the oil. This leads to its wear and partial or complete failure.

Regardless of the reason that caused the partial failure of the oil pump, it is necessary to carry out a detailed check of it and, if necessary, make repairs or complete replacement.

Engine 21126, Mystery, oil pressure periodically disappears

I have been dealing with this problem for a long time and have noticed the following patterns:

— If the oil pressure is normal and the hydraulic valves do not knock, then in city driving mode you can drive for a very long time without losing pressure, and if everything is normal with the pressure and you go on the highway, then the pressure is guaranteed to drop in the first hour of continuous driving.

— (Cold start) If the pressure is LOW, then the car starts with half a turn, and if the pressure is normal, then you won’t start the car without gas (it will sputter and stall), or you can even fill the spark plugs. If during a cold start the car starts up easily, then you are guaranteed to expect a loss of pressure, but if, on the contrary, before the cold start the oiler was blinking and when you start the car and the engine starts to work as if on one or two cylinders (until you bring it to life by accelerating), then this is guaranteed means that now the hydraulics will begin to fall silent one by one and the pressure will return :), how the engine is designed is a dark forest for me, and as I understand it, the oil pressure is unlikely to have anything to do with the engine starting, but nevertheless there is such a pattern, and if this is a coincidence , that's very strange.

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  How to install an oil pressure sensor on a Priora

— The pressure appears only after the engine has completely cooled down, that is, it never happened that the engine was running with low pressure and it appeared during its operation.

— When you open the oil filler cap, oil visually splashes out in the same amount, both during normal engine operation and when the oil can is blinking.

What was done: — The pressure gauge showed 0.8 when hot (but not at the moment when the oiler was flickering, but simply when the hydraulic valves were knocking) — Replacement of the oil sensor — Repeated replacement of the oil (from different manufacturers) and filter — We looked at the pan — The oil receiver mesh is clean, the liners are like new, they installed a new pump (the pressure did not change at all) - They opened the head - the bed and camshafts are in normal condition - Before opening the head, it was coated with ordinary silicone sealant which was falling apart, and not as it should - removing the oil channels, but just around the perimeter and spark plugs wells. They coated it with red loctile as required.

What could it be? Where to look? The only nuance is that when they looked at the head, they immediately said that the hydraulics were tired, but I did not change them, because when the pressure is normal they do not knock, and new ones at low pressure would probably become the same. But now I’m already inclined to believe that faulty hydraulic valves can still somehow affect the pressure?

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Alarm indication

Of course, now in almost all cars there is an emergency indication for a complete lack of pressure, this is known to us all - a “burning oil can”. If it doesn’t go out for some time after starting, for example 10 – 20 seconds is one thing, it’s almost always the oil filter’s fault . But if the lamp is constantly on, then this is already an alarm bell. Perhaps the oil pressure sensor has simply failed, or perhaps the oil pump has failed.

In any case, the emergency indication is very important, and I do not advise you to joke with it; nevertheless, this is fraught with a major engine overhaul .

Remember this rule, if the lamp comes on, then turn off the car and preferably immediately to a service station, either a tow truck, or in tow.

Why does engine oil pressure drop?

If you noticed a light that came on while driving on a warm engine, there is no point in starting the procedure by measuring the oil level. In any case, the dipstick will show a low content, since the lubricant still remains on the parts

Allow the oil 5-20 minutes to settle into the crankcase. The time interval from the moment the ignition is turned off until the start of measurement depends on the make of the car, air temperature, degree of engine heating, etc.

It is also important that the car is on a level surface

In the meantime, while our oil is draining, examine the surface of the engine for fresh oil stains, and check for visible damage to the oil sump. See how the oil filter feels, whether it is loose or whether its gasket is damaged. Then pull out the dipstick, wipe it dry and put it back, then take it out again. If the oil trace is near or below the minimum MIN mark, add oil to the engine. Check again with the dipstick to see if the level has risen and start the engine.

Checking the oil level in a Toyota car engine

Has the lamp gone out? What a score. The whole problem was the low lubricant content. Therefore, the device signaled to you that the oil pressure in the engine had lost. You were able to lift it, and everything fell into place.

And now briefly about other common reasons for the lack of oil pressure in the engine:

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practical guide

Recommendation

If, when the engine is warmed up to operating temperature and idling, the emergency oil pressure lamp lights up, you should make sure that:

a) the oil level in the engine sump is normal;

b) the engine is filled with oil in accordance with the factory operating instructions;

c) the oil pressure sensor is working and its wire is not shorted to ground. The integrity of the sensor wire insulation is checked visually. To check the sensor itself, replace it with a known good one and start the engine. If the control lamp continues to light, it means that the sensor is working;

d) there are no extraneous sounds coming from the engine (knocks, grinding noises) indicating cranking of the connecting rod or main bearings or a malfunction of the oil pump.

To complete the work you will need a pressure gauge.

Execution Sequence

1. We prepare the car for work.

2. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.

3. After turning off the engine, remove the emergency oil pressure sensor.

4. Screw the tip of the pressure gauge into the mounting hole of the sensor.

5. Start the engine and check the oil pressure at idle speed at a crankshaft speed of about 5,400 min-1.

For a serviceable engine warmed up to operating temperature, the oil pressure at idle speed should be at least 196.2 kPa (2 bar), and the oil pressure at high crankshaft speed should be 441.3-637.4 kPa (4.5-6 .5 bar). If the pressure is below normal, then the engine needs major repairs. If the oil pressure is higher than normal at high engine speeds, the oil pump relief valve is probably faulty.

6. Upon completion of the test, install the sensor in place

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Your vehicle's instrument cluster contains a warning light for low engine oil pressure. For reliable engine operation, it is necessary that the lubrication system maintain a sufficiently high pressure at all times.

Attention.
If the oil pressure warning light comes on while the engine is running and continues to light at increased speed, this is an alarming sign.
You need to immediately stop driving, stop the engine and find out the cause. Continued operation of the engine with low oil pressure can lead to serious engine damage and large financial costs for repairs. How to check the lubrication system?

1. Open the hood. Do not rush to immediately check the oil level in the engine; let it drain into the oil sump, this will take two to three minutes. During this time, carefully inspect the engine, find out if there are any fresh oil leaks on it.

2. Look under the front of the car to see if the engine oil sump is broken or leaking.

Recommendation.

If an oil leak is detected from a punctured oil sump, try to temporarily repair it in place. To do this, you can use a car inner tube, a piece of rubber, a rag, a wooden plug, etc. A good result can be obtained by using modern repair materials such as “cold welding”, available for sale in car dealerships.

3. Pay special attention to the oil filter. Oil may leak from under the rubber filter gasket if it is damaged or the filter is poorly secured. If oil is leaking from under the oil filter, sometimes it is enough to turn it a little clockwise.

Attention.

Be careful: hot engine parts can burn you, so wear gloves and long sleeves.

4. Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a clean cloth and reinsert it.

5. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level. It should be between the top and bottom levels of the grid scale.

It is worth noting that in the previous article we looked at another malfunction when the Lada Priora engine stalls. Come in and you will find out what measures you need to take.

6. If the oil level is below the lower scale mark, add oil to the specified level.

Recommendation.

If you don't have a funnel to add oil, you can use a funnel made from the neck of a plastic bottle.

7. Start the engine. If, at a normal level, the emergency oil pressure drop lamp goes out, you can continue driving. If the lamp does not go out, check the serviceability of the oil pressure sensor. It is mounted at the top of the rear of the camshaft bearing housing. Unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place. If at normal idle speed the pressure is more than 0.1 MPa (1.0 kgf/cm2) and increases with increasing speed, the sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty.

Recommendation.

If you do not have a pressure gauge, all that remains is to check the reliability of the contact in the block with the sensor wires or replace the sensor with a known good one.

If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the emergency oil pressure drop lamp is on), diagnose and repair the engine.

Attention.
Do not try to drive to the garage: the engine will fail.
Tow the vehicle with the engine not running for repairs. Recommendation.

Before you begin repairing the engine, check the condition of the oil pump.

Good evening, friends. There will be a lot of letters, I hope that someone who rummages around in cars will master my entire story and help with advice. Because I’m already tired of fighting our auto industry. It all started with the fact that I decided to buy myself a car. I had very little money, I’m quite a big man, I was looking for something, well, at least something more spacious for me. When choosing, I settled on the Prior. It looks ok, the repairs don’t seem to be particularly expensive, and, as I said, there wasn’t much money for the purchase. This is my first car in my life, I’m on good terms with cars, I don’t know how to choose. Having traveled around to outbid sellers, I inspected a couple of cars, three or five, I settled on a 2008 Priora 16 valve, the saffron milk caps don’t seem to be visible, the condition is good. I don’t have any friends who would go with me and buy a car, everyone has moved away, so I chose it myself. I checked that it went for a ride, looked at the light bulbs, checked that the handbrake worked, the power windows and windshield wipers worked, everything suited me and I decided I should take it. And took. The seller said, change the oil, guy, it hasn’t been changed for a long time, that’s all I know. I bought a car, drove it home, I don’t have a license, I added a colleague from work to my insurance, transferred the car to myself, and left it for him to drive while I got my license. I give him a car, and he is my personal driver. From home to work, from work home. I like. And he tells me, “Your oil pressure light is blinking, that’s not good.” I tell him that the seller warned that the oil needs to be changed, it’s old. I bought oil and an oil filter and were going to change it. And this guy, a colleague, still has a bit of a knack for cars, he studied to become an auto mechanic, and worked for some time in a service department for some friends. (You should have taken it with you, stupid) We were going to change the oil, we drained the old oil, but it was new. Well, it's clean. Well, what can you do, since you already bought the oil, let’s change it. Changed the oil and filter - nothing changed. Well, he offered to take the Priora to a service center, to see some friends, Uncle Misha, a great guy. When we arrived, he said we need to look at the oil pickup. The car is in the pit, Misha jumps in there, unscrews something there - a new oil pickup, the price is still on it. He says leave the car, we’ll sort it out. Oh, and I dragged out my story. As a result: I ended up with a full engine capital. Uncle Misha, a kind man, did everything for me at half price, but he immediately said that in his free time, at a discount, he overhauled the engine, the car sat in the service center for a couple of months, well, I’m not in a hurry. And when I picked up the car from the service center, Misha told me that your pressure is low, when hot, when idling, 0.8 kgf/cm2, when cold, the pressure is excellent. You need to change the oil pump, buy it and we’ll replace it for you. I don’t have much money, I picked up the car from the service center, drove it 3,000 km, bought an oil pump, all the gaskets, well, everything I needed, what Misha said, I took the car and waited. As it turned out, it was in vain. After changing the oil pump, the pressure did not change. As it was, so it remains. I re-read all the forums that I found, opinions are divided, my head is already spinning, I wrote to all my friends who understand at least something about this, but nothing helps. Please give me some advice, has anyone encountered this? Who knows where the trouble lies? How can I increase the pressure from idle to hot to at least 1.5? Don’t heat it too much, please, friends, I’ll leave a couple of comments for the cons. I hope for the power of Peekaboo!

What value should it be?

To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values ​​now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

(4 votes, average: 2.75 out of 5)

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ADC knock sensor VAZ Priora 16 valves

I decided to create a new topic in this section, because... It simply doesn’t exist separately for this sensor.

I overcame one problem related to this sensor and decided to share. Nothing special really. There is quite a lot of information on the Internet to solve this problem. The effectiveness of this modification has simply been confirmed once again.

I have a car from the summer of 2011, one of the first SEs. Controller - BOSCH ME17.9.7 with firmware B574DB03 (complete stock, nothing flashed). For the last six months or a year I have been observing an accumulated error on the bookmaker's office. 0327

(“Low signal level of the Knock Sensor”). The check (CE) was never lit. The following anomaly was sometimes noticed behind the car - “roars, but does not drive.” The noise from the engine during dynamic acceleration was indeed somewhat unhealthy. And sometimes there is a pleasant “buzz” of the engine with excellent pickup.

I tried to crawl up to the DS (Knock Sensor) from above to check the connector for poor contact (oxidation) and try to tighten it. Removed the air filter box. My car has air conditioning (Halla). In general, I will say this, it is almost impossible. I still threw off the connector, wringing my hands quite a bit. The contacts turned out to be absolutely clean. It was difficult to put the connector in place. I tried to put a 13mm head with a 1/4 ratchet on the DD fastening bolt (the other one just wouldn’t fit there), but nothing worked. The DD is located in the solution of the crankcase ventilation tee plug and the oil dipstick - it is very difficult to get to, everything is done only by touch and on a cold engine. There was a vague hope that distorting the connector would clean it out a little and the DD contacts would go away and the error would go away. But the next trip did not confirm this - again 0327.

Search for truth

I work in Chisinau, in a car service center. The management bought a 2014 Porsche 911 turbo S. in the back of 991.1, and later turbo S 991.2 (restyling) 2017. The cars were sunk in the USA and did not show any signs of life, after preliminary diagnostics, it turned out that there was water in the engine, which had corroded the coating of the cylinder walls. After disassembling the engine, it was decided to line the engine in a local office, they were chosen for this reason They have the best equipment in our country. After liners and replacement of all seals, piston rings and necessary threaded connections (bolts and screws), the price for both engines of these parts is comparable to the price of a brand new Renault Logan in a top-end configuration. The turbines were also replaced, because... through the exhaust and water entered the engine. The engines were assembled in accordance with the manufacturer's technical documentation, all tightening torques were observed. After a complete overhaul of the car, the engines were carefully run-in for about 3,000 km, the first oil and filter change was 500 km, the second was 1,500 km, and at the end of the run-in another change, oil according to approval, original filter. I ran the cars myself, always warmed them up, didn’t put any heavy loads on them, the gearbox was in sport mode so that it wouldn’t shift at 1,500 rpm with relatively low oil pressure, all levels and temperatures were always normal. And then, about 2000 km after the break-in, the 3rd piston knocked, when opened, scuffs were discovered in two cylinders, the pistons were smeared on the liners. We arrived with this scrap metal at the office that lined the block, they were a little shocked, and they said, you understand that this could not happen because of the sleeve, but I understand that this could not happen because of the assembly. There is no technical expertise in our city, I want to send the block and piston group to Moscow so that they can give an expert opinion and reseal the block.

It is still unknown how the second car will behave. I will soon remove the crankcase and try to use an endoscope to look at the condition of the liners.

So, while they send it, maybe there is someone here who understands all this and can express their opinion.

Why does the breakdown occur?

Most often it all starts with a late oil change. For this reason, hard deposits appear in the engine, which over time fall off the walls and, when entering the pump, destroy it. And it doesn’t matter what kind of filter you have, because any filter is after the pump.

All this leads to a decrease in oil pressure, which subsequently leads to wear of other parts. And then the likelihood that replacing one pump can be done is very small. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the oil level and change the oil pump on time!

About additives and properties of oils for increasing pressure in the system

Some car enthusiasts are interested in whether there is motor oil that increases the pressure in the system. Rather, we are talking about special additives that improve its characteristics. The main result from the use of such compounds (for example, SUPROTEC) can be called the restoration of the previous parameters of operating processes in the engine. The surfaces of working parts and mechanisms of the piston group, worn out by constant friction, are partially restored, and their oil-holding capacity increases. As a result, fuel combustion efficiency increases and engine compression improves. Many oils contain special additives that are aimed at reducing engine lubricant consumption.

This is where we will end today’s material. There are many interesting articles ahead of us in the field of engine maintenance and car maintenance in general. Therefore, subscribe to our updates to receive useful newsletters in the future. Bye!

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Knock sensor malfunction

The most common fault is “low signal level” code 0327 . With the ignition off, the integrity of the circuits from the sensor block to the controller, and from the block to the sensor, is checked. It’s a good idea to check the tightening torque. If the torque was insufficient and it was necessary, you can restore it and test for the absence of code 0327.

If the circuits are serviceable, the serviceability of the knock sensor is determined. Here are a couple of methods for checking the sensor itself without using special diagnostic tools.

1. With the engine idling and the wiring harness block disconnected, connect a voltmeter to the sensor contacts in AC mode. The presence of a signal on the DD contacts indicates serviceability.
2. The second method is to remove the DD from the engine. Then a bolt is installed in the sensor hole and a voltmeter is connected to the contacts. By lightly tapping the head of the bolt, the presence of a reaction to vibration is determined by the deflection of the voltmeter needle.

If the circuits and DD are working properly, the fault relates to the controller. When a breakdown of the knock sensor is determined, many drivers recommend using the Bosch sensor from the injection Volga as a replacement.

What value should it be?

To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values ​​now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

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Oil pump pressure reducing valve failure - repair or replacement?

Repair work begins with disassembling the pressure reducing valve. Removing the cover and removing the spring is not difficult, but removing the valve itself usually becomes difficult. In order to do this, you will need the following tools:

• anchor bolt M8 (length 90 mm);
• nut for wrench 10;
• open-end wrench.

The anchor must be inserted tightly into the plunger, and then the nut must be screwed onto it. After this, take the wrench and continue tightening the nut. After some time, the piston will break off and you can remove it.

Source

Oil pressure on a VAZ-2112: how much should it be?

Many motorists know that the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine has engine compression. This is an indicator of oil pressure, which is found in all modern engines. But, for a given engine, what should this indicator be? This is exactly what this article will discuss.

Video about checking compression and oil pressure in the engine:

The video material will tell you how to correctly measure the oil pressure in the engine.

What is oil used for?

The oil pressure indicator lights up on the instrument panel

Automotive oil plays many functions in a car. Initially, this is the lubrication of parts and internal elements. So, without this, rapid wear of most spare parts is inevitable. The second function is cooling the motor elements. Oil is a good “heat absorber”, which provides additional protection against overheating.

The third function is to provide compression. This indicator gives traction power and normal functioning of the engine, namely operation at idle and at higher speeds.

What builds up oil pressure

Oil pump

To pump oil, the engine has an oil pump, which lifts oil from the sump and distributes it throughout the entire system. Thus, it not only provides lubricant, but also creates the necessary pressure. There are several factors that can cause the pressure in a car to drop:

• Unstable timing.
• Oil pump failure.
• Valves not fully closed.
• Other factors that can lead to loss of engine pressure.

What should the pressure be?

Now, directly to the question, what should be the pressure in the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine? If you believe the manufacturer’s data, then the engine when measuring the pressure gauge should produce the following indicators:

• At idle speed - 2-2.2 bar.
• At speeds of 4-5 thousand - 5-6.5 bar.

The pressure gauge measures the oil pressure in the engine

As practice shows, most motorists have the following indications:

• At idle speed - 1.5-2 bar.
• At speeds of 4-5 thousand - 4-6 bar.

This indicator is considered normal for the complete and uninterrupted functioning of the engine, as well as ensuring the normal operation of all systems.

conclusions

When measuring a 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine, the pressure gauge shows the following indicators: idle speed - 1.8 bar; speed 4-5 thousand - 5 bar. This is quite enough for the systems to function normally and for no interruptions in engine operation.

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How to determine if an oil pump is faulty

There are two types of pump testing - without dismantling it and with dismantling it. Without removing the pump, you can verify its malfunction only when it is already in a “dying” state, so it is better to remove it to perform detailed diagnostics.

How to check the oil pump without removing it

Before directly testing the pump, it makes sense to check the oil pressure in the system using a pressure gauge. This way you can make sure that the oil pressure light is working correctly and did not light up in vain. To do this, a pressure gauge is screwed in instead of the emergency lamp pressure sensor.

Please note that the pressure value often drops precisely “when it’s hot,” that is, when the engine is warm. Therefore, the test must be carried out on a warm engine and at idle speed. The minimum and maximum pressure values ​​will differ for different machines. For example, for a VAZ “classic” (VAZ 2101-2107) the minimum emergency pressure value is 0.35...0.45 kgf/cm². It is under such conditions that the emergency lamp on the instrument panel is activated. The normal pressure value is 3.5…4.5 kgf/cm² at a rotation speed of 5600 rpm.

On the same “classic” you can check the oil pump without removing it from its seat. To do this, you need to dismantle the distributor and remove the pump drive gear. Next, evaluate her condition. If there are numerous scuffs on its surface on the blades or on the gear axis, then the pump must be dismantled. It is also worth paying attention to the gear splines. If they are knocked down, it means the pump is jammed. This is usually due to debris and/or sludge in the oil.

Another check without dismantling the pump is to check the play of its rod. This is done in the same way, with the distributor removed and the gear removed. You need to take a long screwdriver and simply move the rod with it. If there is play, it means the pump has failed. On a normal working pump, the gap between the surfaces of the rod and the housing should be 0.1 mm, respectively, and there is practically no play.

Oil receiver mesh

For further inspection it is necessary to dismantle and disassemble the pump. This is also done in order to subsequently flush out any accumulated debris. First you need to unscrew the oil receiver. In this case, it is necessary to check the condition of the sealing ring present at the joint. If it has hardened significantly, it is advisable to change it. Pay special attention to the oil receiver mesh, since most often it is the reason that the pump does not pump oil well. Accordingly, if it is clogged, it needs to be cleaned, or even the entire oil receiver complete with mesh must be changed.

Checking the pressure relief valve

The next item to check is the pressure relief valve. The task of this element is to relieve excess pressure in the system. The main components are a piston and a spring. When the extreme pressure value is reached, the spring is activated and the oil is poured back into the system through the piston, thereby equalizing the pressure. Most often, the malfunction of the oil pump pressure reducing valve is due to the failure of the spring. It either loses its rigidity or bursts.

Why can the oil pressure light come on on a warm and cold engine?

Let's start with the fact that the oil pressure indicator lamp is not an indicator of the level of the oil itself and its quality. The purpose of this device is to record oil pressure or its absence in the central line of the engine lubrication system. It turns out that the oil pressure light comes on if the pressure in the system has dropped below the permissible level.

Please note that it is normal for the oil pressure light to light up briefly (1-3 seconds) or blink after starting the engine. The fact is that the oil pump does not maintain constant pressure in the system after the engine is stopped. Oil pressure begins to build up from the moment the crankshaft is cranked by the starter. If the oil pressure light does not go out or continues to blink for a longer time after starting, then this may indicate a malfunction, low level or quality problems with the engine oil.

Why does the oil pressure light come on? Main reasons.

It should also be added that during cold periods, the engine oil in the crankcase thickens (especially mineral oil) and the oil pump takes more time to raise the pressure in the lubrication system to the required level. If the oil pressure light stays on longer than usual, then the first step is to turn off the engine and check the oil level using the dipstick or by analyzing the oil level readings on the dashboard.

You should also remember about this phenomenon when the oil pressure light comes on briefly while driving in a fully functional car. This can occur as a result of severe body roll during active driving of a vehicle with a so-called “wet” sump. To put it simply, the oil in the oil pan overflows heavily to one side of the tilt, gets agitated, and foams. All this makes it impossible for the oil pump to effectively extract and supply lubricant into the system under the required pressure. To eliminate this phenomenon and prevent negative consequences on sports rally cars that require long-term operation in such conditions (overcoming difficult obstacles, jumping, constant rolls), a dry sump system is installed. In all other cases (if the warning light is on for a longer time), the situation can be considered an emergency.

Engine oil under the required pressure must be stably supplied to loaded pairs and friction units: crankshaft and camshaft bearings, to the turbocharger rotor, to hydraulic timing valve compensators, hydraulic belt tensioners, phase shifters of the variable valve timing system, etc. The operation of such components at low pressure in the oil system leads to the formation of scuffing on the liners and journals of the crankshaft and camshaft, rapid abrasion of antifriction coatings at the interfaces of parts, overheating of loaded elements, etc. With insufficient pressure in the lubrication system, an engine is subject to severe wear and overheating; liners may rotate, shafts may jam, turbocharger failure, etc.

What is an immobilizer for?

In addition to protecting the car from theft, the immobilizer performs a number of additional functions:

• the ability to control the delay for turning off the interior lighting;
• control of the rear fog lamp;
• checking the presence of the key in the ignition when opening the doors and giving a warning signal to the driver (one buzzer flashes in the instrument cluster);
• signaling that the external lighting is not turned off when the ignition is turned off (double buzzer signal).

Positive sides

The positive characteristics of using a standard immobilizer include:

• inability to start the car engine by turning the ignition lock cylinder or using a key without a chip;
• the ability to control the central locking using the standard key;
• when using a standard alarm system, it works in conjunction with the immobilizer, which provides additional protection;
• implementation of additional comfort functions;
• possibility of diagnosing the unit using a scanner.

Negative sides

The disadvantages of an immobilizer usually include the following points:

1. The main disadvantage of the device is its unreliability. Quite often there are key failures, as a result of which the unit does not see the chip. This drawback forces owners to carry with them a second key from the set (with a red mark).
2. The complexity of the training scheme and the risk of errors in the process.
3. It is impossible to ensure automatic engine start without installing a bypass device or completely disabling the immobilizer.
4. If the standard control unit is faulty, it is impossible to disable it yourself.

Lost oil pressure on Priora

Looks like this is my case too. Lukoil GENESIS ARMORTECH oil, 5W40, was poured into the Priora in the summer, the mileage on it is about 1.5 thousand. I filled it myself. Recently there were frosts, about -20, without leaving, we warmed up the car (15-20 minutes), turned it off, then didn’t start it for several days. When they started to start it, the oil pressure light began to constantly burn, and the hydraulic valves began to crackle. After removing the oil filter, when cranking with the starter (DPKV was turned off), no oil came out of the pump. When we were looking for the cause of the loss of pressure, we removed the filter and did not notice anything unusual in the oil that spilled onto the filter, the oil was like oil. I installed a new filter, and nothing was pressed through with it (as it didn’t pour out without a filter, it didn’t work) They dragged the car with a tie into a pit, into the garage

We heated the sump with a 2 kW hairdryer to see if the oil would come out when the starter was turned, and removed the filter. Before starting, all the oil that spilled onto the filter from the system was in drops of water. Then we turned the starter, oil came out. We installed the filter, started the engine and after 5-10 minutes, the hydraulics were pumped and stopped rattling.

How to bypass the immobilizer

If a malfunction occurs in the anti-theft system, the car cannot be started with the key, the immobilizer sends a signal to the ECM to block the main systems. If the need arises to install autostart, the driver has a question about how to disable the Priora immobilizer himself.

Using a crawler

The use of an immobilizer crawler allows you to use the autostart procedure for a vehicle without dismantling or disabling the APS. You can make a device to bypass the system yourself or buy it and install it at a service station.

A simple walker consists of a relay, an inductor for pumping power to the chip, and a diode. A working key is wound to the coil, the circuit is mounted in parallel to the standard pumping coil.

Without a lineman

At the service station, a procedure is carried out to reflash the engine ECU in order to disable the immobilizer. If you have an adapter, laptop and software, you can perform this operation yourself.

To do this you need:

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal.
2. Gain access to the ECM, disconnect the unit from the vehicle network.
3. Remove it from the car.
4. Remove the cover from the ECU, solder the resistor on the board to a position that allows reprogramming.
5. Connect the board to the adapter that provides communication with the computer and supply power to it.
6. Using the program, erase data from non-volatile EEPROM memory.
7. Save changes, disconnect from computer.
8. Resolder the resistor to its original place.
9. Install the ECM into the vehicle's electronic system.

When this operation is carried out, the engine ECU stops receiving signals from the immobilizer.

Resolder the chip in the control unit

If there is no adapter and it is possible to supply power to the ECM during programming, it is recommended to unsolder the EEPROM memory chip. In its place, put a new clean chip or the same chip, but only reset it using a programmer.

Disconnect the control unit

Physically disabling and removing the immobilizer from the Lada Priora is not possible, because it is integrated into the car’s comfort unit circuit. Disabling the power supply unit will disable the vehicle.

Replacement procedure

All work on replacing the controller must be carried out on a cooled engine, since during operation the lubricant heats up to high temperatures. Dismantling procedure step by step.

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. The sensor is located in a hard-to-reach place; for convenience, you can remove the air filter.
3. Remove the wire plug, inspect the connector, check the wiring. In 20% of cases, breakdowns are caused by frayed wires.
4. Using a 21 key, loosen the controller fasteners.
5. Unscrew from the seat. Check the tightness of the seat ring that is in the socket and replace if necessary.
6. Install the new controller in reverse order.

Replacing the pressure sensor on a Priora will require 10 minutes of work in the garage, but if the malfunction of the indicator is associated with a wiring breakdown, the car needs to be fully tested and the contacts cleaned. If you are concerned that your experience is not enough, it is better to contact the service.

Where is

In the LADA Priora car, the automatic anti-theft system (APS) is structurally built into the electrical package unit (comfort unit). Depending on the year of manufacture of the car, its location may be different. In early Priora models, it was located under the center console (beard), which is located in the middle of the dashboard. Under the electrical package unit in these models there was an electronic engine control system (ECM) or an electronic control unit (ECU).

In subsequent modifications of the Lada Priora car, the comfort unit, in which the immobilizer is located, was placed on the left side of the mounting block by the designers. The latter contains relays and fuses. Due to the fact that the electrical package unit is fixed to the surface of the body, behind the mounting block, it is difficult to get to it.

According to factory technology, to dismantle the comfort unit, it is necessary to disassemble part of the instrument panel, which is long and difficult. But there is another way:

1. Before performing any operations on the vehicle's electrical equipment, be sure to remove the contact terminal from the negative electrode of the battery. Remove the plastic panel from under the steering wheel by unlocking the mounting fasteners.
2. The mounting block becomes visible, behind it the assembly with the immobilizer is screwed in a perpendicular position. Blindly, use your hands to approach the 3 wiring connectors of the electrical package unit and disconnect them.
3. Using a bell wrench with a working head of 10, unscrew the 2 mounting bolts that hold the electrical package unit by touch. The bolts are not visible, they are located behind the fuse box.
4. Carefully remove the assembly; it can only be removed in one position.

Check and replacement

During operation of the VAZ-2112, various malfunctions may occur. For example, the oil pressure sensor may fail. However, before drawing conclusions about the causes or presence of a possible breakdown, you should first check the functionality of the device.

The check is performed as follows:

• First of all, check the circuit connecting the DDM and the control lamp. To do this, take the sensor wire and lean it against the surface of the engine. At the same time as this action, you should see if the light on the dashboard is on. If the lamp goes out, then the wiring is fine and the problem is really in the sensor.
• The next step is to remove the device from the vehicle for a visual inspection. The first sign of a breakdown is the presence of moisture on the sensor.

If the DDM turns out to be dry and everything is in order with the wiring, it is recommended to look for the problem elsewhere. For example, the malfunction may be in the oil level or its quality. You can also replace the oil filter if necessary.

There is another way to check the functionality of the sensor in the VAZ-2112. It is considered more reliable and proven. In this case, you will need to use a pressure gauge, and the sequence of actions will look like this:

• First of all, it is necessary to warm up the engine until it reaches operating temperature, and then turn it off.
• Next, you need to unscrew the sensor from the car and screw in the pressure gauge in its place.

• The ground wire of the pressure gauge will need to be connected to the ground of the vehicle.
• After this, you need to connect the control LED to the battery.
• The next action is to turn on the engine and press the gas pedal. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the speed rises gradually.

When the action is completed, you should carefully monitor the pressure gauge and LED. If the device readings reach 1.2 and 1.6 bar, but the LED does not go out, then the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

To carry out the replacement you will need:

• Stock up on the necessary tools, as well as a new sensor.
• Disconnect the wires from the old device.

Unscrew the sensor using a wrench.

Remove the unit

In this case, during the dismantling process, you should pay attention to the fact that the sealing ring should come out along with the sensor. It will also need to be replaced

• Install a new sensor.
• Check the contacts and clean them if necessary, then connect the wires.

When all the steps are completed, you can start the engine again and check the serviceability of the sensor.

The principle of operation of the immobilizer in Priora

The anti-theft immobilizer allows you to start the engine only after recognizing the key installed in the ignition switch.

The operating principle of such a device looks like this:

1. There is a special identification chip in the head of the key.
2. The signal from this chip is sensed by a ring antenna made of many turns of thin copper wire.
3. The antenna is located around the ignition switch cylinder.
4. The read signal is transmitted to the control unit, which compares it with the reference one and activates or prohibits starting the engine.
5. The immobilizer unit is connected via the K-Line bus to the fuel pump control unit, engine ECU and ignition system.
6. If the key is not recognized, these systems are blocked. In this case, the crankshaft may be cranked by the starter, and the immobilizer system warning icon will light up on the instrument cluster.

In what cases is it necessary to replace motor lubricant?

The performance of the power unit and the operation of the vehicle itself will depend on the characteristics of the lubricant and its quality. The manufacturer installed several different engines on the Priora, ranging from 8-valve 21114 and 21116 to 21126–21128. They already have 16 valves and are capable of producing power up to 120 hp.

According to the recommendations provided by the manufacturer, oil changes must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations. For new cars, as well as for those that have undergone major engine repairs, this should be done after 2.5 - 3 thousand kilometers. When should you change the lubricant afterwards? Everything is very simple here - during further operation you will have to replace it every 15 thousand kilometers or annually, without regard to mileage.

However, these are not all situations that affect oil consumption and the need to change it. Manufacturers say that the engine can consume up to 1 liter of lubricant literally for every 1000 kilometers traveled. This is a common occurrence, especially for domestic engines, but a more accurate consumption rate depends on the characteristics of the oil, for example, its viscosity, as well as operating conditions. When driving at high speeds, frequent accelerations, and also when the engine has not been run-in, the degree of consumption will be an order of magnitude higher.

Video

A video from the author Dmitriy Epishev demonstrates desoldering the microcircuit and resetting the data on the programmer.

All cars are equipped with standard anti-theft devices - immobilizers. In domestic cars, due to the poor quality of the system, emergency situations often arise. The immobilizer indicator lights up, the anti-theft system blocks the ignition and fuel supply - the vehicle does not start. You need to know how to disable the immobilizer on a Priora if the anti-theft system malfunctions.

Useful tips

Finally, here are some useful tips that may help you avoid problems with the oil pump pressure reducing valve or make it possible to identify its malfunction in time:

1. Fill the engine only with high-quality motor oil of the appropriate type and viscosity grade. Lubrication requirements can be found in the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.
2. Never mix different brands of oils, even if they are of the same class.
3. Change the oil and oil filter in a timely manner. The regulations for this procedure are also indicated in the car owner's manual.
4. Do not allow dirt, moisture, or process fluids to enter the lubrication system.
5. Monitor oil pressure. When the corresponding warning light on the device turns on, do not hesitate to go for diagnostics.
6. Pay attention to the operating temperature of the engine. Overheating can cause coolant to enter the lubrication system.
7. If you decide to replace or adjust the oil pump pressure relief valve without the necessary skills and tools, it is better to use the services of specialists.

Without a working lubrication system, no car will last long. Its most important element is the oil pump, which provides full pressure in the system. However, it also does not last forever, and in case of failure it must be replaced. You can solve the problem even without contacting the service, but you will have to spend a lot of time. Today we’ll talk about why the oil pump fails on a Priora and how to change it if it fails.