Why does the oil pressure light on the Priora come on at idle?

6. If the oil level is below the lower scale mark, add oil to the specified level.
HELPFUL ADVICE If you don't have a funnel to add oil, you can use a funnel made from the neck of a plastic bottle.

7. Start the Lada Priora engine. If, at a normal level, the emergency oil pressure drop lamp goes out, you can continue driving. If the lamp does not go out, check the serviceability of the oil pressure sensor. It is mounted at the top of the rear of the camshaft bearing housing. Unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place. If at normal idle speed the pressure is more than 0.1 MPa (1.0 kgf/cm2) and increases with increasing speed, the oil pressure sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty.

USEFUL ADVICE If you do not have a pressure gauge, all that remains is to check the reliability of the contact in the block with the sensor wires or replace the oil pressure sensor with a known good one.

If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the emergency oil pressure drop lamp is on), diagnose and repair the engine (see Section 5 “Engine”).

WARNING Do not attempt to drive to the garage; the engine will be damaged. Tow the vehicle with the engine not running for repairs.

Oil light on hot engine

#1 Offline PPG

Twice flame hero

Forumets
2,545 Posts:
Car: Priora

Priora car 1.6 16 valve. Mileage 88 thousand.

Usually on weekdays I don’t drive during the day: in the morning to work and in the evening from work, if I get stuck in traffic jams, it’s for no more than 5-10 minutes. And last week I had to travel during the day for work. I stood on Malinovsky Street in front of the bridge for a couple of days in a traffic jam in the heat. And after standing for a long time, the oil pressure light began to blink at idle. And the longer it stood, it actually tried to burn continuously.

There's more background here:

a couple of days before, I decided to wash the engine and change the breather tube. I have a Karcher 2, which is weak. In short, I wrapped all the contacts in cellophane and washed the engine without fanaticism. It stood there for an hour while I changed the hoses. And after that the car started to shake. I went to the technician, he counted the errors - he said 2 coils were not working. I unscrewed it and they were wet! He blew them out and said, let’s change the spark plugs in one go. Come on. He unscrews the spark plug from the 4th cylinder, and there is oil in the well! He says the sealant under the cover needs to be changed (the gasket is not installed on the Priora from the factory).

And just during this interval between replacing the spark plugs and replacing the sealant under the engine cover, the oil in my plug began to blink. I immediately went and bought oil (I use liqui molly 5w40), flushing, filters and changed the whole thing (before that I changed the oil in the fall, 7 thousand km ago). The oil light did not come on. But I wasn’t particularly stuck in traffic jams.

Over the weekend I changed the sealant under the cover, the master said that the engine was clean and everything was fine.

Today I went again to work for Dovator and got stuck in a traffic jam in the heat. And the lamp blinked again!

I read the Internet - they write a lot of different things. Now I'm going to my mechanic to measure the oil pressure.

The engine runs smoothly without any extraneous sounds.

I wanted to ask: what could be? Could there be a connection with the engine flush?

Forum member 54 401 Posts:

Car: Golf Variant

Well, that's it, now the remaining half of the forum will stop washing the engine!

Apparently your sensor is failing.

#3 Offline PPG

Twice flame hero

Forum member 2,545 Posts:

Car: Priora

Well, that's it, now the remaining half of the forum will stop washing the engine!

Apparently your sensor is failing.

This is not the first time I have washed it, before everything was fine. True, before when washing I did not remove the plastic casing from the engine, so I did not fill the coils, apparently

I really hope it’s the sensor, but why exactly does this happen on a very hot engine, that’s what interests me?

#4 Offline Stas

Forum member 54 401 Posts:

Car: Golf Variant

In order to determine whether the oil pressure sensor is working or not, you should know its design. It consists of a housing, a transmission mechanism and a measuring membrane. Depending on the pressure with which the oil presses on the membrane, it bends and takes a certain position, simultaneously opening and closing electrical contacts. Based on this principle of operation, we can conclude that to check the functionality of the sensor, you need to take a control pressure gauge and connect it to the circuit instead of the sensor itself. If, when the engine is turned on at idle speed, the pressure gauge produces a pressure of 0.65 kgf per square centimeter or higher, it means that the pressure is within normal limits and it is the oil pressure sensor that is faulty. Of course, sometimes this breakdown occurs on the road, where there is no control pressure gauge at hand. In this case, the functionality of the sensor can be checked in a simpler way.

To do this check, you need to remove the oil sensor and have someone turn the starter (attention: you do not need to start the engine)

If oil flows from the hose to which the sensor is connected, then again the problem is not in the system, but in the sensor. In these simple ways you can quickly check the integrity of your car’s oil system.

Forum member 11,034 Posts:

Reasons why the oil level light is on

Before looking at the reasons why an oil light might come on, it is necessary to fix the definitions. The warning lamps in the car are controlled by the BCS - the so-called on-board control system. It controls all the lamps displayed on the instrument panel (turn signals on/off, low/high beams, parking brake signal, etc.). Including oil level and pressure lamps. Some cars (newer or more advanced) have separate lamps, while others (older) usually have only one lamp, and it is activated when the lubricating fluid pressure in the crankcase is low. Typically, a yellow icon (oil can) on the dashboard symbolizes low oil level, and a red lamp indicates low pressure. On modern multifunction displays, corresponding inscriptions may appear instead of an “oil can”.

The lamps can be activated separately from one another, since they operate based on data from two sensors (level sensor and engine oil pressure sensor). For example, even when the oil level is low, the oil pump is able to provide sufficient pressure. Although this depends directly on the level, if the level is critically low, then there will be no pressure, but if the level has dropped slightly below the minimum permissible level, then there will still be pressure. And vice versa - if the oil level is within normal limits, then, for example, if the oil filter is clogged, a situation may arise when the pressure in the system is insufficient to effectively lubricate engine parts. A striking example in this case is the situation when, when the crankcase is broken, the low pressure lamp first comes on, and then the low oil level.

Next, let's look at the reasons why the pressure/oil level light may have come on. There are thirteen of them. Let's list them in order from simple to more complex.

Low oil level in the crankcase . This is the simplest problem, and almost anyone, even a novice car enthusiast, can cope with it, without turning to a car service center for help. True, if it is not related to a leak. Any cars, even old carburetor cars, are equipped with an oil pressure sensor.

When its indicator drops below normal, it sends a signal to the ECU (electronic control unit), which, in turn, activates the corresponding lamp on the instrument panel. In this case, the lamp does not blink, but lights up in a constant mode. On modern cars, instead of a warning lamp, the message Check Engine Oil Level may appear, which directly indicates that the driver needs to check the oil level in the crankcase. The situation can happen in any mode of engine operation - at idle, under load, in motion, parked, hot, cold, and so on.

When the ignition is turned on, but the engine is not running (position ON or II), on many cars all the lights and signals on the dashboard are activated, including the oil lamp. However, after starting the engine, most of them go out, including the mentioned indicator.

Measuring the oil level with a dipstick

An interesting case may be when the lamp lights up in certain situations (for example, for a few seconds), and then goes out. This may be the case when the machine is going up or down a steep hill/slope, respectively. In this case, oil can be poured into one of the crankcase volumes - front or rear. And if the oil level sensor is located at its opposite end, this will automatically cause the oil light to light up while driving. A similar situation occurs when driving with a lateral roll or during sharp braking (although in the latter case this is unlikely, and we will look at the reasons why the oil light comes on during braking a little further). If, after returning the car body to its normal horizontal position, the lamp goes out, this means that this is your case, and there is little oil in the engine crankcase.

Incorrectly selected oil . In particular, its viscosity is incorrectly selected, this is especially true for low-temperature viscosity. If it thickens in the cold, then it is difficult for the pump to pump it through the system and the pressure in it is insufficient, which is recorded by the corresponding sensor. Similarly, during the operation of the machine, the viscosity changes (or the oil simply becomes contaminated), which is why a situation may arise when, in certain situations, the pressure sensor is triggered and the oil can indicator will either light up or blink.

Poor quality oil filter . A normal oil filter constantly contains some amount of engine oil. This is done in order to avoid oil starvation when starting the engine. This can be achieved by introducing a check valve or locking washer into its design. These elements ensure that the oil is locked when the engine is turned off. However, on low-quality filters, these elements may either not be present at all or may not fully perform their task. Accordingly, the oil from the filter flows back into the oil pan, and after starting, the engine builds up pressure for the first few seconds. This is a very bad situation, since this results in increased wear of parts, and therefore a decrease in their overall service life. Usually, after starting the engine, the oil light comes on, but soon (after a few seconds/minutes) it goes out.

Clogged oil filter . If the oil filter is heavily clogged, it does not allow the flow of engine oil to pass through it well. This leads, firstly, to a decrease in pressure in the oil system, and secondly, it creates additional load on the oil pump, which reduces its service life and can damage it. In this case, low oil pressure or oil level is often activated. On modern cars equipped with a multifunction display, the words Check Pressure Oil or similar may appear, which translates as “check the engine oil pressure.” Moreover, a similar situation when the oil light is on at idle or at low speeds may indicate that the pressure in the oil system has dropped, and one of the reasons (but not the only one) is a clogged oil filter.

Oil pump pressure reducing valve . This element performs an important function in the car’s oil system, namely, it regulates, that is, prevents the oil level in it from significantly increasing or decreasing. Both of these situations negatively affect the operation of the engine and its individual elements. Most often in this context, the valve spring breaks. Or it simply stretches due to wear and tear or poor quality of the steel from which it is made. Another option is that over time the valve lumen becomes clogged. This is especially true if the car is filled with low-quality dirty oil or the oil filter is already very worn out. If the pressure reducing valve fails when high engine speeds are reached, the oil pressure increases sharply.

Faulty oil level sensor . There are two possible options here. The first, relevant for the problem under consideration, is that when it fails, the oil light is constantly on. This means that its slider is stuck (most often it “gobbled up” oil and drowned) or another breakdown has occurred (depending on the design of the sensor). A direct consequence of this is the fact that the oil pressure light is constantly on.

Another, opposite case, which, however, is not relevant in this topic, is that the sensor does not react in any way to the oil level. Accordingly, if it drops critically, the driver will not know about it unless he manually checks the amount of lubricant in the crankcase using a dipstick. And such a situation is fraught with significant wear and tear on the engine, up to its complete failure.

It is worth noting that the oil level sensor is a fairly reliable device, so it rarely fails. And old devices or devices installed on old cars are susceptible to this (for example, the popular VAZ classic and similar domestic cars). On modern foreign cars, such a breakdown is extremely rare.

Faulty oil pressure sensor . Sometimes situations arise when, for example, in winter in frosty weather, if the engine is not warmed up, it literally “breaks through” the sensor and it begins to leak. Accordingly, it displays pressure incorrectly. For this reason, in winter you should always warm up the engine before driving, although many automakers claim that such a procedure is unnecessary for modern cars.

Clogged oil pump strainer . Here the situation is similar to that described with the oil filter. If it becomes clogged, less oil passes through the mesh than it should, which leads to a decrease in pressure in the system and a decrease in its level. In addition, in such a situation, the oil pump wears out, which significantly reduces its service life.

Faulty oil pump . These devices come in different types - gear, vacuum, rotary. The reasons why it failed will directly depend on this. But in any case, if the oil pump is not working, the pressure in the system will not be maintained, which means the oil light will also blink.

Oil leak . Most often, oil leaks from under various gaskets and sealing rings. Also, the place of leakage can be pipes, oil lines, a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket (in this case, oil and antifreeze are often mixed), and so on. If oil leaks from the system in large quantities, this automatically leads to a situation where the pressure in it drops, which will be indicated by the corresponding light on the dashboard.

Clogged oil passages in the engine . Many modern foreign car engines are structurally made in such a way that the diameter of their oil channels is quite small (for example, this is true for many modern engines installed on cars manufactured by the VAG concern). Therefore, they need to use appropriate high-quality oils that are sufficiently viscous and will not clog the channels, thereby reducing their permeability. In addition, such machines need to be filled with high-quality fuel so that their combustion waste, which gets into the oil in small quantities, also does not clog the oil channels.

Significant wear on engine cylinders/pistons . This happens with old engines and engines that have not been overhauled for a long time. When the cylinder walls are deformed, the so-called waste takes up a much larger amount of oil than is prescribed according to the documentation. Accordingly, when the threshold low oil level in the engine is reached, the warning lamp lights up. And even if you add a certain amount of lubricating fluid, it will soon light up again. Therefore, such motors need to be “overhauled,” that is, comprehensive repairs.

Gasoline or antifreeze getting into the oil . This usually happens when the cylinder head gasket fails. In this case, antifreeze can get into the oil, and it will lose its viscosity characteristics. Often, outwardly, this is expressed by the constant “leakage” of coolant from the system, and the appearance of white smoke from the exhaust pipe may also occur.

Lost oil pressure on Priora

ignat 93 wrote:

I brought the car from the service station (AvtoVAZ). As expected, there was ice in the pan. I support the oil issue, but the point is that the car is still under warranty. They blamed me - I don’t warm it up enough and don’t drive it enough - a candence will form. It seemed to warm up normally. Well, up to 60-70 somewhere. In general, they replaced the filter and oil at my expense! They made me look like an idiot. one of the workers blurted out that I was not the first in these frosts and this is also a sore on the Priors! After the 2nd maintenance, I won’t take the car to them (it’s discolored). I'll change the oil and filter myself - they seem to be crap there!! Smile, for example, on the VAZ 21103 there were never any such problems.

Looks like this is my case too. Lukoil GENESIS ARMORTECH oil, 5W40, was poured into the Priora in the summer, the mileage on it is about 1.5 thousand. I filled it myself. Recently there were frosts, about -20, without leaving, we warmed up the car (15-20 minutes), turned it off, then didn’t start it for several days. When they started to start it, the oil pressure light began to constantly burn, and the hydraulic valves began to crackle. After removing the oil filter, when cranking with the starter (DPKV was turned off), no oil came out of the pump. When we were looking for the cause of the loss of pressure, we removed the filter and did not notice anything unusual in the oil that spilled onto the filter, the oil was like oil. I installed a new filter, and nothing was pressed through with it (as it didn’t pour out without a filter, it didn’t work) They dragged the car with a tie into a pit, into the garage

We heated the sump with a 2 kW hairdryer to see if the oil would come out when the starter was turned, and removed the filter. Before starting, all the oil that spilled onto the filter from the system was in drops of water. Then we turned the starter, oil came out. We installed the filter, started the engine and after 5-10 minutes, the hydraulics were pumped and stopped rattling.

No oil pressure in the engine(((( — Community “Lada Priora (Lada Priora Club)” on DRIVE2

Hello everyone again... I wrote here about 2 weeks ago about the oil pressure in the Priora... in general, I copied everything that I wrote earlier: Hello everyone. In general, this is the problem, I went through the engine 21126, the pistons on the stk were changed, the block was sharpened, the knee was not when starting off they said the new inserts were normal, the pump and oil receiver were new, Motul 10/40 oil, the head was not repaired except for replacing the caps and grinding in the valves. And after all this, when warmed up to 60 degrees. The oil pump starts flashing, everything is fine when it’s cold... I haven’t measured the pressure yet, but even without it I understand that when it’s hot it disappears. I don’t know what to do. Help. Something like this. Now I will tell you what happened and is happening now.

I went through the engine with a new one, everything was clean and purged, every channel, before assembly and before assembly, the sensor is new, the hydraulic compensators are new... practically a new engine, only with very large holes... now at 60 degrees the oil pan does not start blinking, it just lights up stupidly 60 degrees... The new hydraulic compensators do not pump and do not want to, there is no pressure... We measured it with a mechanical sensor, both cold and hot, under a load of 0.5, but there is a possibility that the sensor is sick... they will bring another sensor soon and we will measure... if so and if I stay, I don’t know what to do but burn everything down *(((((

Method for properly checking engine oil level

There are rules for checking the engine oil level:

Tracking is performed strictly on a horizontal platform.
The oil level is checked at a temperature below normal engine heating (allow to cool slightly).

There are foreign-made engines where the oil level can be checked both “hot” and “cold”. In this case, the manufacturer provides the “cold” and “hot” labels, respectively.

Instructions for replacing DDM

For safety reasons, replacement work should be carried out with the engine cooled down and wearing cloth gloves. From the tools you should prepare a key for “21”.

The procedure consists of a sequence of steps:

First, the minus terminal from the battery is disconnected.
For convenience, remove the air filter.
The DDM and around it should be wiped with a rag to prevent dirt from getting inside.
By pressing the wire block, disconnect it from the regulator.
Using a key, loosen the sensor and unscrew it from the socket.
We install a new device. In this case, a metal O-ring should also be installed.
Assembly is performed in the reverse order of removal.

Reason #2

Sometimes smoke appears when climbing a hill, because you have to constantly press the pedal. The driver may not see the smoke, but those driving behind will see everything perfectly. A thin stream of smoke is a sign of malfunctions in the piston system, as well as increased oil consumption.

Most often, malfunctions are associated with wear of the piston rings and grooves on the piston for the rings. Also, the rings can lie down and, as a result, their properties are lost. If the compression rings are not positioned correctly due to carbon deposits, this is also one of the faults that causes blue smoke.

Cylinders can also fail. This leads to a decrease in compression. This problem can only be solved with the help of a major overhaul - sleeve or boring. If the pistons fail, the problem can be solved by purchasing and installing new ones.

Many novice car owners ask experienced ones what to do, the Priora is burning oil. You can try using engine decarbonizers.

With the help of special means, the coke is cleared from the rings, and they can become mobile again. Previously, for this, acetone diluted with oil and kerosene was poured into the cylinders. The mixture was then left for a day and then the oil was changed. If this solution does not help, then you can try a miracle drug from the pharmacy - dimexide. This medicine will clear away any carbon deposits and coke.

Level above normal

Well, what if the oil level is higher than normal? Here the reasons should be sought in a different direction. Most likely, the viscosity of the lubricant will also be lower than that specified for engine operation. So what could be the reason?

One of the probable reasons is the ingress of coolant into the oil system due to burnout of the jumpers in the gasket between the valve head and the engine cylinder block. Liquid from the cooling system enters the engine crankcase through the burnt area. A mixture of coolant and oil is formed, the viscosity of which instantly drops, as a result of which the oil pump is unable to create the required pressure. Also due to cracks and microcracks that appear as a result of engine overheating.

Using low-quality fuel can lead to the same result. Burning not completely in the combustion chamber, it enters the crankcase through leaks in the piston rings.

The oil pressure light comes on at idle: ways to check

Now let's talk about the case when the low oil pressure warning light comes on while the engine is idling. Below we present available methods for identifying malfunctions, which will generally be useful in diagnosing the condition of the engine lubrication system and engine oil pressure.

If the oil pressure light comes on, then you should check the engine oil level in the engine and its condition. If the level drops, add oil. A suspicious condition of the oil (black color, excessive thickness) will require thorough flushing of the oil system and subsequent oil change. The smell of gasoline/diesel, an emulsion on the oil filler cap, or severe dilution of the engine oil will indicate problems with the CPG or cracks in the cylinder head/cylinder head. On a working engine, the combustion chambers should be sealed, fuel and antifreeze from the cooling system should not enter the lubrication system.
The oil pressure lamp may come on at idle immediately after changing the oil during the first start. In this case, the warning light may remain on for 10, 15 or even 20 seconds. If after the specified period of time the low oil pressure lamp does not go out, then you should check the oil filter. The product may be of poor quality, poorly screwed (oil leaks are noticeable in the area where the filter is attached) or defective.
Check the oil pressure sensor. The oil pressure level at idle speed at around 800 - 900 rpm should not be less than 0.5 kgf/cm2. It is also worth noting that emergency oil pressure sensors on different engines may have different response ranges, which on average range from 0.4 to 0.8 kgf/cm2. This means that if there is a sensor designed to operate at 0.7 kgf/cm2, already during a pressure drop to 0.6 kgf/cm2 the sensor will turn on the emergency oil pressure lamp. This is done for conditional notification of a decrease in pressure in the line of the internal combustion engine lubrication system.

The initial check of the sensor should be done by slightly increasing the crankshaft speed (1000-1100 rpm). In other words, if the oil pressure light goes out when you press the gas, then the following options are possible:

idle speed is too low (the light blinks at idle);
low oil pressure in the lubrication system;
malfunction of the oil pressure sensor;
engine malfunction;

To accurately measure the oil pressure in the engine, you need to unscrew the sensor and install a pressure gauge in its place. Also, one should not exclude false alarms of the oil pressure sensor at idle speed, which may occur due to contamination of both the device itself and the engine oil channels. In this case, you will need to clean the sensor and clean the lubrication system channels.

As for engine breakdowns that lead to a decrease in oil pressure, indirect signs are increased consumption of fuel and engine oil, the engine emits blue or bluish smoke. In such cases, the oil pressure lamp lights up at idle, taking into account the warmed-up engine. This occurs due to the fact that the heated lubricant liquefies and flows freely through the gaps between various parts (liners, shaft journals, etc.).

As you know, at idle the crankshaft speed is minimal. At the same time, the oil pump also develops a minimum pressure. As a result, a relatively small deviation can lead to the oil pressure lamp coming on at idle, while when the speed rises and the oil pressure in the lubrication system increases, the problem of the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dashboard coming on may not appear.

Engine oil pressure: what it depends on, how to measure it correctly. What is the oil pressure on different engines in idle mode and under load.

Why there may be low oil pressure in the engine, the oil pressure light blinks at idle or under load. Fault diagnosis and repair.

Why does fuel get into the engine oil, what could be the consequences of a malfunction for the internal combustion engine. Gasoline gets into the oil: diagnostics and repair.

Foaming of engine oil in the engine: in what cases and why is this dangerous for the engine. Main causes of malfunction, diagnostics.

Purpose of the diesel engine lubrication system. Components, oil pump performance, cooling function. Malfunctions and prevention.

Causes of oil leaks in the oil filter area: oil flows from under the filter, through the housing, in the area of the fitting, etc. Available diagnostic and repair methods.

Level below normal

The minimum oil pressure in the system of a working engine is: 0.7 - 0.8 atm. at idle, and 3 - 4.5 atm. on power. If, when checking, the level turns out to be lower than expected, this may be the cause of a drop in pressure due to “oil starvation”. In this case, you need to find out the reason for the drop in level; there may be several of them.

You need to carefully inspect all joints for oil leaks. Pay special attention to:

oil filter mounting location;
pressure sensor;
oil seal installation locations;
places where the covers are attached (front and rear), along the perimeter of the valve cover and engine crankcase installations.

Also check the front lower part of the gearbox for leaks; oil leakage in this place indicates a failure of the engine crankshaft rear oil seal. You need to add oil to medium level. If, after starting the engine, the blinking of the light stops, you can drive to the nearest place for diagnostics and, if necessary, repairs.

The oil pressure light comes on at idle: ways to check

If the oil pressure light comes on, then you should check the engine oil level in the engine and its condition. If the level drops, add oil. A suspicious condition of the oil (black color, excessive thickness) will require thorough flushing of the oil system and subsequent oil change. The smell of gasoline/diesel, an emulsion on the oil filler cap, or severe dilution of the engine oil will indicate problems with the CPG or cracks in the cylinder head/cylinder head. On a working engine, the combustion chambers should be sealed, fuel and antifreeze from the cooling system should not enter the lubrication system.
The oil pressure lamp may come on at idle immediately after changing the oil during the first start. In this case, the warning light may remain on for 10, 15 or even 20 seconds. If after the specified period of time the low oil pressure lamp does not go out, then you should check the oil filter. The product may be of poor quality, poorly screwed (oil leaks are noticeable in the area where the filter is attached) or defective.
Check the oil pressure sensor. The oil pressure level at idle speed at around 800 - 900 rpm should not be less than 0.5 kgf/cm2. It is also worth noting that emergency oil pressure sensors on different engines may have different response ranges, which on average range from 0.4 to 0.8 kgf/cm2. This means that if there is a sensor designed to operate at 0.7 kgf/cm2, already during a pressure drop to 0.6 kgf/cm2 the sensor will turn on the emergency oil pressure lamp. This is done for conditional notification of a decrease in pressure in the line of the internal combustion engine lubrication system.

idle speed is too low (the light blinks at idle);
low oil pressure in the lubrication system;
malfunction of the oil pressure sensor;
engine malfunction;

Engine oil pressure: what it depends on, how to measure it correctly. What is the oil pressure on different engines in idle mode and under load.

Why there may be low oil pressure in the engine, the oil pressure light blinks at idle or under load. Fault diagnosis and repair.

Why does fuel get into the engine oil, what could be the consequences of a malfunction for the internal combustion engine. Gasoline gets into the oil: diagnostics and repair.

Foaming of engine oil in the engine: in what cases and why is this dangerous for the engine. Main causes of malfunction, diagnostics.

Purpose of the diesel engine lubrication system. Components, oil pump performance, cooling function. Malfunctions and prevention.

Causes of oil leaks in the oil filter area: oil flows from under the filter, through the housing, in the area of the fitting, etc. Available diagnostic and repair methods.

Source

The oil can blinks: reasons

Why is the oil pressure light blinking? There may be many reasons, but not so many that they cannot be grasped by consciousness. But a very important point is the sequence in which these reasons will line up in your head! The speed of troubleshooting, and the amount of “weight loss” in your wallet, depends on this.

So the oil pressure light is blinking. First of all, you need to immediately turn off the engine. Raise the hood. Wait about ten minutes, allowing the oil to drain into the engine crankcase. Check the oil level: according to the engine operating instructions, it should be in the middle (but can be a little higher), between the Min marks. and Max. If the oil level is normal, you need to calmly think about the possible reasons for the blinking oil pressure light.

What could be the reasons:

Lubricant quality.

Oil consumption rates for Lada Priora

The car can be equipped with one of four engines. Each modification has its own expense. Thus, an 8-valve 1.6-liter engine with a power of 87 horsepower should consume up to 50 grams per thousand kilometers according to standards. The VAZ-21126 model with a power of 98 horsepower should also, according to the manufacturer, have modest appetites. The 1.8 liter model (VAZ-211128) has an oil consumption rate of 300 grams per thousand kilometers.

For 1.6 units, the oil consumption rate does not exceed 50 grams. The latest engine is modernized. Its key features are that with a standard cylinder block, the developers changed the stroke of the pistons by using a different crankshaft and shorter connecting rods. This technical solution led to increased loads on the engine, or more precisely on the pistons, rings, cylinder block walls and connecting rods.

In some cases, if the engine is severely worn out, the Priora consumes up to 3 liters of oil per thousand kilometers. Let's look at the main reasons for increased oil appetite in a car.

Lost oil pressure at idle. — Community “Lada Priora Club” on DRIVE2

Good day everyone, another problem has happened and we can’t solve it in any way. In general, they made the head, changed the guides, then ground in the valves and installed Reserve seals. We reassembled it and the engine began to emit blue smoke, but not always. Sometimes when heating up at idle there was a lot of smoke, it was decided to change the valve seals, we bought Victo Rains seals and immediately left the Prima rings. Since the old ones had gaps and oil leakage on the 2nd and 4th piston. After assembly there was no smoke at all, but when warming up the oil pressure lamp blinked, checked with a mechanical pressure gauge, it showed 0.5 kg at idle at a temperature of 95 degrees. And so it was made. We replaced the oil and filter, the oil receiver and removed the oil pump, measured the pump with a micrometer and it even looked to be in excellent condition. The main liners have not been replaced, but visually they are free of scuffs and scuffs. Next we measured the camshaft journals, the intake one near the oil seal was 23.92 mm and the rest up to 23.95 mm.

In general, I replaced both shafts, since there is nothing left to think about. As a result, the pressure did not improve. The pressure reducing valve holds, but not for very long; when warming up, the compensators begin to knock. That's all we can do... give us some more advice on what and how to check.

Today, purely for the sake of my own curiosity, I bought a set from a VAZ 2106 (pointer, sensor, etc., etc.) installed and connected, as a result, when warmed up at xx, it presses 3 (well, maybe 2.7), at 3000 rpm 4 with kopecks at 5000 about 5 s half

I can’t vouch for the accuracy of the measurements, what I see is what I’m writing, I think everyone has seen the pressure indicator in the wheel.

mileage 5000 km car for half a year oil shell helix hx7 10w-40 I'm going to switch to helix ultra

Or maybe just screw a threesome in there and that’s it? How reliable is this one from 2106? install a standard pressure switch and plug the other end. When should I insert a pressure gauge there? So as not to jerk back and forth.

The standard set is available almost everywhere, I bought it for 120 rubles (banjo, fitting, medical gasket). There was a plug on the banjo for a long time. This set is more convenient because... similar to a constructor - any combination of installation.

Here it is at a more attractive price https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Blue-Oil-Pressure-Adaptor-Temperature-Temp-Gauge-Filter-Sandwich-Plate-Sensor-1-8-NPT-Free/ 1052442796.html

Warm up engine oil Zic+10-40 at idle a little more than 1 At, 3000 - about 3 At

Found in the forum archives: The oil pressure in the area of the pressure sensor on the VAZ-21126 engine should be at least 1.2 (kgf/cm2).” Department for analyzing the quality of vehicles in operation. Leading process engineer. Nikolai Nikolaevich Gapchenko

What value should it be?

To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

(4 votes, average: 2.75 out of 5)

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Options for when the oil pressure light comes on at idle

You cannot ignore the “winks” of the instrument panel for a long time, especially if the watering can is on. There are not many options for breakdowns. Most of them can be repaired yourself and without pissing off your iron friend.

Usually the oil pressure light comes on at idle speed if there is not enough lubricant in the engine sump. If you look closely, you can see greasy stains on the asphalt in the morning. Be sure to check the content levels daily before operating your vehicle. Since the system does not provide for the full volume of oil in the engine at all times, it takes time to move it there. At low speeds, with low pressure, the liquid does not have time to disperse throughout the system in seconds. During the heating process, the problem disappears. We already know that the lubrication system is closed and the rotation is repeated. However, the older and more worn out an engine becomes, the more fluid it retains. People say “the engine ate oil,” which means part of it is inside the internal combustion engine and does not go through further stages. The younger and cleaner the unit, the less significant the waste. Therefore, at first, the owner of a new car will not notice any flaws. The oil pressure light comes on at idle and when driving, and then unpredictably goes out and comes on again if the problem is in the sensor itself, which lives as it pleases. To determine whether this is the problem, we accelerate the car to 5 thousand revolutions. We are monitoring the control. If it doesn't go out, that's the problem.

It is important, when conducting such an experiment, to be confident in the level of the material, that is, to exclude the first point. Lubricant drains into the crankcase when using a fake (low-quality) filter. Instead of leaving some of the lubricant for a painless engine start, the filter leaked it into the crankcase, which led to the drying out of the power unit

The motor takes longer to deliver the required amount into the engine. There is not enough pressure due to a faulty pressure relief valve. When you need to relieve excess pressure, it opens, and when you need to catch up, it closes. Through simple manipulations, the desired state is regulated. If the work hangs, for example, due to excess debris, the pressure is not built up, the lubricant flows freely into the pan. The path through the pumping network is clogged. When the oil is not changed for a long time, additional slags and corrosion from internal combustion engine parts are formed in it. All this debris, falling off along with the liquid, remains on the mesh, and over time the permeability is impaired. You can determine if there is slagging by draining a little of it into a container. If its color is cloudy, dirty, or black, it requires replacement plus engine flushing. The quality of the liquid itself - insufficient viscosity, high fluidity - does not allow the required pressure to be built up. It is important to use lubricants recommended by the manufacturer and purchased in specialized stores. Too liquid, it causes the oil can to burn at idle speed, and goes out at 1.5-2 thousand. In addition, if the spark plugs or fuel supply system fail, gasoline can dilute the flammable petroleum product. But with this option, the indicator goes out at empty speed. The oil pump itself was damaged. This unit consists of several gears, which by rotation create pressure and drive the lubricant to the target. If one of the parts is damaged, the operation of the entire system is disrupted and may stop altogether. Breakdown of the pan or filter. When a ship leaks, oil flows out very quickly through the hole. In this case, engine operation is prohibited.

Failure to pay attention to the indicator can ultimately lead to the breakdown of all shafts, injectors, free rotation of the liners and expensive repairs. Don't panic, most problems can be fixed yourself. If it doesn’t work, don’t risk it, contact a specialist. And don't miss the opportunity to get to know your car better.

What to do if the oil pressure is on, how to fix this problem, this and other things are in the article.

Nobody likes to carry out engine repairs. Firstly, if you have the knowledge, then for this you need an appropriate tool, which is now very expensive, and secondly, if you don’t have the knowledge, you will have to contact the service. And if bodybuilders can show examples of their work, then the qualifications of a motor mechanic cannot be determined in this way, only by reviews of satisfied and dissatisfied customers.

Oil pressure light blinking in Peugeot

Fans of the “French” also “have not passed away.” But a couple more links are built into the chain of causes: the oil filter has a plastic partition in the shape of a cross, which often breaks and a fragment blocks the valve, creating “oil starvation.”

Another reason may be incorrect operation of the solenoid (solenoid) valve for regulating the oil pressure. Often the sealing sleeve, which is located at the entry point into the cylinder block housing of the electrical wiring suitable for the solenoid valve, fails. Due to the loss of elasticity of this part, oil leaks at the place of its installation.

I start the car - everything is fine! When it warms up to 90-95 degrees, the oil pressure light starts blinking. Flashes only at idle. Doesn't eat much butter. I went to the service center and they told me to disassemble the engine floor, remove the pan, and look at the crankshaft. true or false - repairs are not cheap. The engine runs normally, the check light does not come on, the oil pressure sensor has been changed. What do you advise? thanks in advance.