Chery Amulet 1.6 (A15) 4 doors. sedan, 94 hp, 5 manual transmission, 2006 – 2010 — the starter turns, but the engine does not start

A car is a faithful assistant to a modern person, as it allows you to quickly get to any point in the city and suburbs. Foreign and domestic concerns are constantly producing new vehicles that combine quality, reliability and functionality.

But Chery was able to develop not only stylish, but also reliable cars, the popularity of which has remained for a long time. For connoisseurs of high-quality budget cars of foreign production, this is the best option.

Causes of engine malfunctions, ways to eliminate them

In most cases, when the engine in a Chery Amulet fails, computer diagnostics must be performed to troubleshoot the problem. In this case, troubleshooting will be reduced to a minimum, and it will be clear where to look for the problem.

Otherwise, when a malfunction is identified, you can change many parts and motor mechanisms, spending a decent amount on their purchase, but still not fix the main damage.

The following vehicle systems may be affected by this malfunction:

  • supply system;
  • ignition;
  • electrician;
  • breakdowns in the motor;
  • gas distribution system (GRM).

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Chery Amulet, no spark

SergeyMP » Sep 18, 2022, 11:45 am | Message: #1

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Malfunctions of the car’s ignition system are unpleasant because any of them is always accompanied by serious interruptions in the engine’s operation or its complete stop. The main sign of a malfunctioning ignition system is the complete absence or “weak” spark between the electrodes of the spark plugs. What to do if there is no spark, and where to look for it? Read about this and more in our material.

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Most often, the spark disappears precisely at the moment when you need to go somewhere. In order not to push the car to the nearest car service center, it is important to understand what the operation of the ignition system depends on, then finding the missing spark will not cause any particular difficulties.

At the end of this article, watch the video instructions for finding a spark in the ignition system of VAZ cars.

And below we propose to get acquainted with the algorithm for searching for a missing spark in a car’s ignition system.

Why is there no spark at the spark plugs?

There can be several reasons for the lack of spark at the spark plugs. Most often the culprits of the malfunction are:

  • Accumulator battery;
  • High voltage wires;
  • Ignition coil;
  • Distributor;
  • Malfunctions in the low voltage circuit.

Also, in the absence of a spark, special attention should be paid to checking the quality of contacts and electrical connections of the ignition system elements. You can check the condition of the contacts simply by rubbing them with your hand.

Carefully inspect the wires and blocks of the ignition system - if dirt, oil or water is found on them, they must be wiped with a dry cloth. After that, try starting the engine, it may start this time.

Checking the battery

A clear sign of problems with the battery is a dull and quiet horn signal. Also, if there are problems with the battery, the indicator lights on the instrument panel usually go out while the starter is rotating. In this case, the reason for the lack of a spark may be poor contact at the terminals or a low battery charge.

  • If the terminals are oxidized, they must be cleaned and tightened tightly. In addition, you can use graphite lubricant, which will reliably protect the contacts from oxidation in the future.
  • If the battery is discharged, it must be charged using a charger.

For information on how to properly charge a car battery and maintain it, read our battery charging instructions.

Checking high voltage wires

Next, it’s worth inspecting the high-voltage wires: they must have a neat, not “tattered” appearance, without insulation damage, otherwise they will have to be replaced. If the wires are ok, then you can start looking for a spark.

Brakes squeal when braking

The rotation of the starter should be accompanied by an uninterrupted bright spark of white color with a slight blue tint. If there is no spark, you need to check the ignition coil. A violet, red or yellow spark indicates a malfunction in the ignition system.

It is also worth noting that the spark plugs themselves rarely fail all at the same time. If there is a “spark” in the spark plug wires, you can check any spark plug by unscrewing it from the cylinder head and putting the spark plug wire on it. Touch the metal part of the spark plug to the “ground” of the car, and by rotating the starter, make sure that there is a spark at the spark plug electrodes.

It is necessary to change spark plugs within the time limits established by the maintenance regulations for your car (usually every 15-25 thousand km).

You can learn more about the markings and heat ratings of spark plugs from our material at this link.

Checking the ignition coil

To check the ignition coil, you need to pull out the central wire coming from the coil from the distributor-breaker cover.

While turning the starter, make sure there is a spark from the wire, similar to the spark plug wires.

  • The appearance of a spark indicates the serviceability of the ignition coil. In this case, the fault should be sought in the distribution switch.
  • If there is no spark from the wire, then the cause of the malfunction is hidden either in the ignition coil or in the low voltage circuit.

If there is a malfunction in the ignition coil, it should be replaced with a new one.

Checking the ignition distributor

If you suspect a malfunction of the breaker-distributor, you must carefully inspect its cover from the inside.

  • If the cap is in order, then simply wash it with gasoline,
  • If any cracks are found, the cover will need to be replaced.

The center carbon contact of the breaker is checked for sticking by lightly moving it with your finger.

The rotor insulation of the breaker-distributor is checked for breakdown as follows:

  • Place the central high-voltage wire with a gap of 5-8 mm from the rotor electrode,
  • After this, close and open the breaker contacts with your hand (the ignition must be turned on).

The appearance of sparks in the gap indicates a rotor malfunction that will need to be replaced.

DIY car window closer

Low Voltage Circuit Test

To check the low voltage circuit, you can use a 12 V test lamp with a power of up to 3 W. The lamp is connected on one side to the low voltage terminal of the breaker, and on the other to the vehicle ground.

After this, you need to manually close the contacts of the distributor-breaker and turn on the ignition. If the low voltage circuit is working properly, the control lamp should light up when the contacts open, and go out when they close.

If the lamp does not light up when the contacts are opened, it means that the fault is hidden either in the low voltage wires or in the primary winding of the ignition coil.

Constant lighting of the lamp, in any position of the contacts, indicates one of three causes of the malfunction:

  • Severe oxidation of breaker contacts;
  • Broken wiring leading from the breaker terminal to the lever;
  • Broken wiring connecting the movable disk of the breaker to the housing.

If the cause of the malfunction turns out to be oxidized contacts, then they must be cleaned, after which the gap should be adjusted.

Video: searching for a spark in the ignition system of a VAZ 2109

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Chery Amulet 1.6 (A15) 4 doors. sedan, 94 hp, 5 manual transmission, 2006 – 2010 — glow ignition (reasons)

contents .. 1 2 ..

Glow ignition is a violation of the synchronized ignition of the mixture in the combustion chamber

Causes of glow ignition and methods of elimination

1. It is characterized by the fact that the fuel-air mixture in the engine cylinders is ignited not with the help of a spark from a spark plug at a precisely specified moment, but arbitrarily, for example, from hot carbon particles or from an overheated spark plug body, or rather, its insulator.

2. Also, the appearance of glow ignition occurs from the use of low octane fuel and a broken ignition timing. There are designs of internal combustion engines that do not use a spark ignition system, but rather glow ignition. The spark plugs in such engines are called glow plugs.

True, such schemes are quite rare, and for a traditional engine, the occurrence of glow ignition is fraught with the most negative consequences and serious engine damage due to the uncontrolled process of ignition of the mixture.

It’s good if the spark plug insulator simply crumbles or the electrode burns out, and if the piston scuffs or it burns out.

It is better to prevent the occurrence of glow ignition in advance. To do this, you should fill up with fuel with the recommended octane rating for a particular engine, check the ignition installation more often and operate the car engine with the recommended spark plugs.

Glow ignition protection

It is difficult to say unambiguously when exactly glow ignition occurs. But preventive measures always come down to the following list:

-Candles must comply with performance characteristics; -The heat number is taken into account; -Fuel quality; -Periodic diagnostics.

Matching the spark plugs is the main thing that can prevent overfiring. It is important to consider the heat rating, which is different for each engine.

If the spark plug works normally, then the temperature of its insulator is within 600 degrees, but if it is higher or lower, then undesirable consequences can be expected very soon. Soot can form on cold spark plugs, which disrupts the functioning of the spark plug, and then glow ignition develops.

Heat rating for different types of spark plugs:

-Cold candles (20 and above); -Medium candles (15-19); -Hot candles (11-14).

The glow number of the candle is determined by the technical characteristics. If the temperature in the combustion chamber is high, then cold spark plugs are used, and if the engine is running at low speeds, then hot spark plugs are used.

Regular diagnostics are used to prevent glow ignition. Timely identification and elimination of faults can significantly save money and extend the life of the vehicle.

Specifications

Technical parameters Chery Amulet 1.6 / Chery Amulet in the back (A15) 4 doors. sedan with a 94 hp engine, 5 manual transmission, produced from 2006 to 2010.

Basic data

  • Start of production: January 2006
  • End of production:
    January 2010
  • Body:
    4 doors sedan (A15)

Engine

  • Engine type: SOHC 8-valve L4
  • Fuel grade: AI-92
  • Engine capacity, cubic meters see: 1596
  • Valves per cylinder: 2
  • Boost: —
  • Power, hp: 94
  • Achieved at vol. per minute: 5500
  • Torque, Nm/rev. per minute: 132 / 3000
  • Maximum speed, km/h: 172
  • Acceleration time to 100 km/h, sec.: 11.5
  • Fuel consumption (combined cycle), l. per 100 km: 8.5
  • Fuel consumption (in the city), l. per 100 km: 11
  • Fuel consumption (outside the city), l. per 100 km: 7
  • Engine layout: Front transverse
  • Compression ratio: 9.8

Drive unit

  • Drive type: Front

Transmission

  • Transmission: Manual
  • Number of steps: 5

Suspension

  • Front: MacPherson strut, coil springs
  • Rear: Torsion bar axle

Brakes

  • Front: Disc, ventilated
  • Rear: Drum

Dimensions

  • Length, mm: 4393
  • Width, mm: 1682
  • Height, mm: 1424
  • Wheelbase, mm: 2468

Other

  • Number of seats: 5
  • Tire size: 185/60 R14
  • Curb weight, kg: 1100
  • Permissible weight, kg: 1475
  • Trunk volume, l: 420
  • Fuel tank volume, l: 55
  • Turning diameter, m: 11

contents .. 1 2 ..

Checking the ignition system

Your vehicle is equipped with a high energy microprocessor ignition system (MPI). A voltage of about 40,000 V is supplied to the high-voltage wires, and although at low current strength it is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles.

Before checking the ignition system, place the gear shift lever in neutral and leave the parking brake on.

1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and fit of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coil sockets.

2. Check the serviceability of the ignition coil (see “Checking the ignition coil”).

3. If the ignition coil low voltage circuit is normal, check for spark at the spark plugs. Remove the high voltage wire from any spark plug. Insert a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and press its metal part against the vehicle's ground (for example, against the intake pipe). Have an assistant turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.

Reliable contact of the spark plug body with ground is mandatory, since if an additional spark gap appears that is larger than the gap between the spark plug electrodes, damage to the engine control system unit or the high-voltage circuit of the ignition coil is possible.

Carry out this check for no more than five seconds so as not to damage the exhaust gas converter if gasoline that has not burned in the engine cylinders gets into it.

4. If there is no spark, replace the high-voltage wires with new ones. You can first try to install new, but proven ones, from a “working” machine.

5. If after replacing the wires a spark does not appear, replace the ignition coil (see “Removing and installing the ignition coil”). If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can also first try to install non-new, but proven ones from a “working” machine.

6. If after this the engine does not start, check the serviceability of the engine management system (see “Fuel injection system malfunctions”).

Fuse box in the cabin of Chery M11

The device fuse box is located on the left side under the instrument panel.
Device fuse box diagram

Schematic diagram of the starting and charging system.

Well, what can I say, dear readers, from the very beginning of managing my dream =))) it was difficult for me to start moving... Yes, yes, you were not mistaken, smooth gear shifting is not about me! And to get moving is not realistic at all! No, don’t think that I’m a teapot without experience (and that’s exactly how I feel), I have experience! I kept blaming the electronic throttle, they say the delay and reaction are not the same, with a cable the sensations are completely different =)))) ... As time passed, there were moments when I stupidly stalled in traffic jams (at 92, stupidly). In addition to all this, there were lumbago, twitching, and occasional tripping, let’s say. I changed the spark plugs, cheap ones though, regular Brisk ones. I ordered good Bosch, but the supplier cut it, re-ordered, I’m waiting... And today my check light comes on...

Attempts to do self-diagnosis using the gas and brake pedals + the key to the ignition position did not give any results, zero reaction... It was boiling, I wanted to hold out until the March holidays, dig around normally... but no... go to the garage, I created...

Pull off the battery terminal. Let's start with explosives, remove, inspect, see

This is the first reason for ignition misfires, we measure the resistance

Chery Amulet Mulka › Logbook › Found the reason why the car won’t start.

Well, here we go. Hi all. The reason for the poor startup was found. Yesterday, in addition to the fact that the car did not want to start, my power steering pipe burst. Well, I think it's awesome. went to the overpass. I started to disassemble and removed the protection. changed the pipe. and I look at the lower starter mounting bolt, where the mass is secured, and it sticks out halfway and moves freely. He broke off. I'm thinking about what to do. I asked my father to let me go to the car depot, where the men helped me get this bolt, it really broke off, and because it was spinning freely, the Akum was cracking and the starter wasn’t engaging... Well, to get this pin (it turns out that’s what it’s called) I had to twist the engine mount and hang the engine itself. The officials sorted out one problem and ordered a new hairpin for Friday. Tomorrow I’ll go shopping at the Foltsevsky stores, maybe they’ll give me something. Because the sooner my swallow runs in, the better it is for me, naturally. ———————————————————————————— A third problem has arisen, in addition to the pipe and ignition. The car has gone crazy. I drive up to the car depot and see my temperature light flashing and the temperature jumping back and forth. I turn off the ignition again and instead of the red zone the needle has already fallen. can this be possible? Antifreeze is in place, everything is in place. There are no photos, because I didn’t get around to it, and I wasn’t in the mood. What’s going on anyway... So I shared, it seems to have become easier...

The starter turns the engine, but the engine does not start

Malfunctions that appear when the engine is started are a fairly common occurrence during vehicle operation, regardless of the type and design features of the installed power unit (gasoline, diesel, naturally aspirated or turbocharged engine, hybrid engine, etc.). One of the most common situations is that after turning on the ignition and turning the key in the lock to the engine start position, the starter turns normally, but the engine does not start.

A feature of this type of breakdown is a certain difficulty in localizing the fault. The fact is that it is much easier to look for a problem if, for example, the starter makes a sound but does not turn the engine, or the fuel pump does not pump after turning on the ignition. In any case, the existing problem needs to be solved. Next, we intend to talk about why the engine may not start when the starter turns the crankshaft well.

Which fuel filter should I choose?

If you are looking for a reliable fuel filter for your car, we recommend using MAHLE products, which guarantee high German quality and full compliance with the technical specifications put forward by vehicle manufacturers. MAHLE fuel filters reliably clean fuel from foreign particles. Thanks to the use of highly efficient filter media, the fuel system is reliably protected from the slightest contaminant particles. A stable supply of fuel to the system is possible by regulating the pressure and removing excess quantity from the fuel pump to the tank. This ensures reliable engine operation and guarantees economical operation of the vehicle.

Device

  • solenoid relay for 3 fastenings;
  • brush assembly from Bosh - A11-1GD3708120;
  • short brushes Valeo - A11-1CX3708122;
  • bearing A11-1GD3708110.
  • rated power - 1.2 kW;
  • voltage - 12 V;
  • duration of continuous operation - up to 10-15 seconds;
  • battery capacity - not less than 60 A/h;
  • device type - refurbishable, serviceable.

The solenoid relay plug on the Cherie Amulet starter is plastic.

Disassembly and inspection

To restore the starter's functionality, it must be disassembled. Before doing this, it is advisable to check:

  • free movement of the bendix only in one direction - in the other direction the clutch must lock;
  • operation of the retractor relay, i.e., the presence of clicking and extension of the overrunning clutch - to do this, you need to supply current directly from the battery to the terminal of the relay control terminal, at the same time connect the minus to the starter housing;
  • armature rotation amplitude, which must be at least 5000 rpm - connect the control wire of the solenoid relay to the lower contact bolt.

For disassembly you will need wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers. You also need to prepare a small hammer with a comfortable handle, a multimeter and a caliper. You should check the armature of the device, the operation of the return spring, and after removing the back cover, the condition of the brush group. Before assembly, all parts must be thoroughly cleaned with gasoline and dried. Be sure to add lubricant to the gears and treat the bearings (bushings) with engine oil. Before installing the solenoid relay, apply a layer of sealant to its surface in contact with the starter cover.

Do-it-yourself starter replacement

Before installing a new starter, you need to dismantle the old one according to the diagram from the manufacturer. To do this, you will need keys “13” and “16”. During work, the engine is turned off, personal protective equipment is used - work gloves, safety glasses. Dismantling is best done in a heated room, the optimal air temperature is +18-20°C.

Work order.

  • Squeeze the special lock on the surface of the cover.
  • Removing the control wire block.
  • The protective cap is removed from the fastening nut, and the nut is unscrewed with a 13mm wrench.
  • Remove the wire from the traction relay.
  • Unscrew the ground wire nut and remove the wire from the stud.
  • Remove the starter mounting nuts.

After this, the device can be completely dismantled. If during the work you encounter difficulties in unscrewing the nuts, which happens with cars with high mileage, you can use multi-purpose lubricant. When completely replacing the starter, do not throw away the old one; it can serve as a “donor” for repairing the new one.

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  • Delivery by courier in Moscow - 500 rubles.
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  • Pickup: Moscow, 1st Dorozhny proezd, building 1, building 2
Front bumper Tiggo-5
Rear bumper CH 5
Front left shock absorber Tiggo5
Tailgate shock absorber Tiggo

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346500 Rostov region, Shakhty, st. Sovetskaya, 200

346500 Rostov region, Shakhty, st. Sovetskaya, 200

Why us?

STO "Master Service" is:

  • Relevant knowledge and practical experience of specialists.
  • Specially equipped boxes and warehouses for storing spare parts.
  • Use of stands of our own production.
  • Availability of components in warehouses for Chery, Chevrolet and other brands, possibility of ordering and delivery.
  • Fulfillment of warranty obligations to the consumer.

Repair of the Cherie starter is accompanied by an estimate and issuance of the necessary documents.

Chery Amulet won't start, reasons and how to start

Like many new car models whose homeland is the Celestial Empire, the new five-door liftback called Chery Amulet, produced by the Chinese company of the same name Chery Automobile, strongly resembled a well-known car.

This car turned out to be really familiar to everyone, the Seat Toledo. This car was produced in Spain.

But, as it turned out, this is absolutely nothing surprising, since Chinese manufacturers took the technical base of this particular car as the basis for their model.

To be absolutely precise, the first generation base of a previously well-known car brand was used.

The new model, codenamed A15, included a fairly good 1.6-liter Tritec power unit. In 2003, and it was from this moment that the production of a new liftback model began, this engine, produced by Brazilian specialists, was considered still a new and quite good unit.

But, seven years later, namely in 2010, Chery Amulet was significantly updated, and it already received an ACTECO-SQR477F engine.

It was already a more powerful unit, but with a volume of 1.5 liters.

This car model rolled off the factory assembly line for over ten years in a row. In China it was mainly used as a taxi.

And this can only indicate that the car itself and its power unit in particular are highly reliable and maintainable.

This car was in good demand in our country.

However, no matter how reliable a car and its engine are, various types of incidents and malfunctions can still happen to it during operation.

Some of them are quite obvious and even predictable. Therefore, eliminating them is not particularly difficult.

But there are also incidents that, at first glance, seem trivial, but not every owner manages to detect them right away.

The main causes of breakdowns and ways to solve them

Failures can be roughly divided into spontaneous ones due to wear of parts and operational ones, which appeared during the process of improper maintenance of the car. To avoid technical inconveniences, the owner is responsible for periodic maintenance of the vehicle.

Why won't the Chery Amulet car start? Every second owner of this vehicle has encountered this problem. The main reason is the poor quality of the starter, since gradual wear leads to the supply of less electrical voltage, which does not allow the entire circuit to be activated to subsequently start the engine.

If the starter turns, but the car still does not start, the causes of the malfunction may lie in something else: oxidation of the wires, charring of the spark plugs, failure of power supply from the battery, disruption of the electrical circuit between the starter and the engine due to damage to the wiring. In some cases, the lack of starting torque is due to a malfunction of the ignition switch, loss of idle speed and technical problems in the engine itself. Detailed diagnostics using precision equipment is an excellent opportunity to determine the location of the problem and eliminate it without interfering with additional parts and systems.

There are several possible problems that can lead to the engine not starting. Their detailed study is an opportunity to obtain high-quality repairs and restore the normal functioning of the entire car.

ProblemReasons for appearanceSolution
No motor powerThe lack of power is due to a loss of electric current between parts or due to faulty spark plugs.Detailed inspection of engine power supply devices, cleaning or replacement of spark plugs.
Incorrect fuel injection into the systemFuel pump failure or pressure drop in it.Check the hoses and the pump itself for damage to quickly solve the problem.
No idle speedFailure of the throttle position sensor.Checking the system using special equipment and adjusting the idle speed. The lack of automatic recovery requires mechanical intervention.
Oil pressure dropIf the oil light is on on the instrument panel, this indicates a problem with pressure, that is, the substance is not supplied correctly to the system, which causes interruptions in operation. If you do not respond to such a signal in a timely manner, you may encounter serious problems in the operation of the engine itself. Checking the oil pressure level, oil supply pipes and pump. As a rule, the problem is localized precisely in the pump that produces the wrong pressure. Repairing or replacing it will restore normal operation.
Engine overheatingThe movement of the coolant in a small circle, and not in a large one, due to which the engine temperature is disturbed.Checking the flaps of the transition of the small circle to the large one. Replacing such a small part prevents major problems with the engine.
No ignitionLoss of current may be due to problems with the ignition switch.Cleaning oxidized wires or replacing the ignition switch will eliminate the problem.
Battery problemsBattery discharge or failure due to improper use. This also includes the use of a low-quality battery that cannot cope with the assigned load. Recharge or completely replace the battery if it cannot be restored.
Wiring faultOver time, the wires may oxidize, become charred, or break off.Detailed diagnostics combined with timely cleaning of the wires will help avoid such a malfunction.
Electrical malfunctionThis is justified by the fact that the car has low ground clearance, so when driving through swampy areas or deep puddles, water can get into the body and, accordingly, onto working parts. Technical wear and tear is another problem. Checking connections of electrical equipment and the units themselves. Drying or replacing damaged elements depending on the cause of the malfunction.
Starter problemsThe starter in Chery Amulet cars is a weak point and a headache for all its owners. Weak contacts, which contribute to disruption of the electrical circuit, lead to a lack of starting torque even when the engine temperature is hot. Checking wire components and related systems for burnt contacts or charring. In certain cases, the problem can only be solved by replacing the starter.

In the end, it must be said that appropriate maintenance at a service center and timely response to irregularities in the vehicle’s operation are an opportunity to prevent the occurrence of various types of problems.

Chery Amulet is a reliable Chinese-made car that can create driving comfort only if the owner pays attention in the form of timely oil and filter changes and diagnostics of basic technical components. The car will become a faithful assistant in everyday and business affairs, so you should not neglect even minor inaccuracies in the work.

Decoding codes

As stated above, without deciphering error codes, diagnosing a vehicle is meaningless. Therefore, deciphering combinations should also be given attention. Especially if you don’t want to pay a lot of money to specialists at the service station for this. So, let's start with the combinations that appear during self-diagnosis of the car.

Self-diagnosis codes

CombinationDeciphering the breakdown
1Code 1 indicates a malfunction in the microprocessor. Sometimes the error is corrected by flashing the device.
2The on-board computer reports incorrect operation of the gasoline level sensor in the fuel tank. There may be problems with the electrical wiring.
4,8The voltage in the vehicle network is too high or too low.
12Incorrect operation of the diagnostic lamp circuit.
13The on-board computer stopped receiving a signal from the oxygen level monitoring device.
14,15The control unit receives an incorrect signal from the antifreeze temperature sensor in the cooling system. In particular, the signal may be too low or too high.
16,17When checking a car for errors, these combinations mean an incorrect on-board voltage indicator. it is necessary to carefully check the network for short circuits and breaks, since the voltage indicator is too high or very low.
19The VAZ 2115 on-board computer receives an incorrect signal from the crankshaft position monitoring device. The circuit should be checked.
21,22The VAZ 2115 control unit receives a very low or high signal from the throttle position control device. To eliminate the malfunction, you should check the functionality of the device itself, as well as diagnose the electrical wiring.
23,25Intake air temperature control device. The control unit receives an incorrect signal from this sensor. The circuit should be checked, as well as the sensor itself.
24The on-board computer stopped receiving a signal from the speed sensor of the VAZ 2115 vehicle.
27,28These error combinations indicate the receipt of an incorrect signal from the CO sensor to the car control unit. It is recommended to check the circuit for opens and shorts or replace the sensor.
33,34Mass air flow control device. These errors mean the receipt of an incorrect signal from the sensor, as a result of which it should be replaced. There is also a possibility of breaks in the circuit, so it makes sense to check the electrical wiring as well.
35A malfunction has been detected in the operation of the idle air regulator. The sensor must be replaced to restore correct operation of the device.
41The control unit receives an incorrect signal from the phase sensor.
42This combination indicates a malfunction in the electronic ignition control wiring. Apparently, everything is in order with the ignition, but the circuit should be diagnosed.
43The control unit received an incorrect signal from the knock sensor. You should check the device or diagnose the circuit for breaks.
44,45In the injection system, the on-board computer recorded a lean or enriched composition of the combustible mixture. In this case:

Controller errors

The following are combinations of errors in the operation of controllers that arise when diagnosing a VAZ 2115.

CombinationDecoding
P0101-P0103These combinations indicate a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor. In particular, the signal may be increased or decreased. The device should be replaced.
P0112-P0113The intake air temperature sensor has been reported to have failed. It is necessary to check the electrical wiring, especially in places where the wires have been soldered. Apparently, the on-board computer is trying to inform you that a short circuit or break has occurred.
P0116-P0118These error codes indicate a malfunction of the antifreeze temperature sensor in the system. As a rule, in such cases, it is better to first check the electrical wiring, and if everything is in order with the circuit, then it is advisable to replace the sensor itself.
P2138, P2122, P2123, P0222, P0223These error codes indicate that the accelerator pedal position control device is not operating correctly.
P0201-P0204When such combinations appear, the on-board computer tries to inform the car owner that one of the injectors is not working correctly. In particular, an open circuit or short circuit may be detected in the system.
P0130 - P0134One of these combinations of numbers may indicate a malfunction in the functioning of the control oxygen sensor. To restore the operation of the sensor, you should check the circuit for breaks and short circuits, or you should replace the device.
P0136-P0140These errors indicate incorrect operation of the diagnostic sensor for monitoring the oxygen level in the injection system. As in the previous case, errors may indicate incorrect operation of the device or faulty wiring.
P0217Indicates overheating of the internal combustion engine. In this case, malfunctions may lie both in the operation of the motor itself and in:
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