Instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

If there is a constant extraneous sound (hum) from the rear wheels when driving, you should pay attention to the condition of the wheel bearing. On the VAZ 2114, this part is quite durable and it happens that the bearing travels more than 200,000 km, but if it starts to howl, its replacement is required.

In order to replace it yourself, we need the following tool:

1. Vise for more convenience
2. Special puller with rotating jaws
3. Circlip pliers
4. Wood block
5. Hammer
6. Ratchet and crank
7. 7 and 30 mm heads

At one time I did a video review on this topic, but due to the fact that at that time I did not have all the necessary tools and a vice on hand, which are very useful when performing this repair, everything did not turn out quite as I wanted. But the essence of working in a garage environment can still be understood.

Replacement

First, let's set priorities. If you just want to save money, so you do the work yourself without any experience, then this is a wrong decision that can lead to dire consequences. If you have experience and certain knowledge, you can safely do the repairs yourself.

In any case, we recommend watching the training video instructions, where you will be told in detail about all the nuances of such work. This way you will gain additional experience and useful knowledge.

After this, we proceed directly to the work of replacing the wheel bearings. There are several ways. We will tell you about each of them in more detail, and you will decide for yourself which option suits your skills and capabilities.

1. The first method involves carrying out work without removing the steering knuckle from the car. But here you will definitely need a special puller to dismantle the bearings. The advantage of the method is that there is no need for subsequent wheel alignment adjustment. But this is the most inconvenient way. To press out and reinstall the wheel bearing, we recommend driving the car into an inspection hole.

Puller

1. The second method will require removing the steering knuckle. A workbench will also be useful for removing the bearing. In this case, you will definitely break the collapse. If you don’t want to go to a service station after repairing yourself, use a couple of tricky tricks: Before removing the lower bolt of the strut and steering knuckle, apply marks;
2. One mark will allow you to determine the position of the bolt;
3. The second mark will be responsible for the position in the steering knuckle strut;
4. During the reassembly process, try to ensure that the marks match each other as accurately as possible. This method allows you to simultaneously make adjustments to the chassis and check the condition of the components.

The third method will require removing the bearing along with the stand and dismantling it using a vice. This method is complex compared to others.

It remains to press out the element

Before work, do not forget to turn on the handbrake and place wheel chocks under the wheels to avoid accidental movement of the vehicle.

1. Remove the strut, knock out the tie rod ends and unscrew the fasteners of the upper support to the body of your car.
2. Position the jack so that it does not become an obstacle during operation. It all depends on your personal understanding of comfort.
3. The wheel bolts are unscrewed, after which the nut of the desired bearing is removed using a 13 mm wrench.
4. Using a 17 mm wrench, you dismantle the caliper, which is secured with wire to prevent sagging on the brake hose.

Dismantling works

1. After this, the brake disc and ball joint are removed.
2. The hub will now be knocked out of the steering knuckle, giving you access to the damaged bearing.
3. All that remains now is to press out our problematic element using a puller.
4. If you do not have a device such as a puller, use a metal tube whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the bearing.
5. Clean the landing site, treat it with lubricant, after which you can install a new spare part.
6. Reassemble in reverse order. Do not forget to simultaneously check the condition of various components, lubricate, change gaskets as necessary.

As you can see, there is a lot of work to do. Do not rush to conclusions regarding the ease or difficulty of such a task. If you want to do everything quickly, efficiently, without having any experience, contact the service station. Otherwise, be prepared to spend a whole day, or even more, on repairs.

Loading …

Selection of ZPS

When choosing a rear wheel bearing, you should focus on the required characteristics and manufacturers who today produce ZPS suitable for the VAZ 2109.

Let's start with the characteristics. The choice should be made in favor of bearings with the following parameters.

For the rear hub, a ball, angular contact, double-row closed type bearing is used.

Now let's talk about manufacturers. There are several of them, each of which has its own characteristics.

Replacement

Since the test results showed that the old rear wheel bearing has already served its purpose, it will need to be replaced.

Replacement procedure

Many people ignore the noise and hum of the ZPS until a certain time. But if timely repairs are not done, this can lead to serious problems that can result in the following consequences:

• Initially, hum and noise will cause discomfort due to their unpleasant sounds. Many motorists are accustomed to comfort, so they will do everything to get rid of the noise;
• If you continue to ignore the problem bearing, you will soon have to replace not only it, but the entire rear strut. And these are serious financial losses;
• Bearing wear leads to disruption of the running system. From here, the car can behave in the most unpredictable ways, increasing the likelihood of an accident.

Don’t joke with a problematic air conditioning system, but it is better to start repairing it immediately when you notice signs of its malfunction.

1. After checking, lower the car to the ground, loosen the hub nut and bolts holding the wheels.
2. Remove the decorative cap from the hub nut, then unlock the nut, loosen the tightening and use a socket with a lever to increase the force, remove the fasteners. Please note that these nuts are tightened with a large torque, so you will have to work hard.
3. Loosen the tension on the wheel bolts.
4. Use a jack to lift the side on which you will begin the repair. In this case, the car must be in the first gear position at the gearbox.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Remove the brake pads and drums, which will allow you to completely unscrew the hub nut and put it aside along with the thrust washer.
7. Now you have got rid of everything unnecessary, so you can arm yourself with a special puller to press the hub off the axle.

Removing an element

You will need a vise to hold the removed hub. Without them, removing the bearing will be quite problematic.

Don't forget to remove the retaining ring before doing this.

Using a mandrel and puller, press out the old bearing.

It is extremely important to treat the hub, wash it, removing all dirt. Only after the hub has been cleaned can a new bearing be pressed in that meets the parameters required by VAZ 2109

Only after the hub has been cleaned can a new bearing be pressed in that meets the parameters required by the VAZ 2109.

Replace the retaining ring. It is also better to replace it rather than use the old ring.

Press the hub into its rightful place using a mandrel of suitable diameter

The force must be applied to the inner ring of the new bearing, and not to the outer one.

All you have to do is assemble the knot in reverse order. There shouldn't be any serious difficulties with this.

The last step is the mandatory replacement of the old hub mounting nut. It is not advisable to use an old nut. After installing the fastener, lock the nut.

Carry out a similar operation with the second hub. Experts recommend replacing the rear hub bearings in pairs so that their wear is equal and uniform. In addition, if one bearing fails, the second will soon follow. Why put off already obligatory events?

A competent approach to replacement, the correct choice of rear wheel bearing in accordance with the stated parameters are a guarantee of successful repair of your VAZ 2109. Do not delay in solving this problem, otherwise it will result in serious financial costs for you or, God forbid, an accident.

Sources

• https://zamena-podshipnikov.ru/zamena-zadnego-stupichnogo-podshipnika-vaz-2114.html
• https://luxvaz.ru/vaz-2109/293-zamena-zadnego-stupichnogo-podshipnika.html

Rear suspension and chassis design

Bearing produced by AvtoVAZ

Before proceeding directly to the replacement process, it is worth considering the rear suspension structure in order to understand the location of the part, as well as determine what needs to be removed in order to change the rear wheel bearing.

Sectional view of the rear chassis

1. Rear wheel hub; 2. Rear suspension arm; 3. Suspension arm mounting bracket; 4. Rubber bushing for the lever hinge; 5. Lever joint spacer; 6. Rear suspension arm mounting bolt; 7. Body bracket; 8. Support washer for fastening the shock absorber rod; 9. Upper suspension spring support; 10. Spacer sleeve; 11. Suspension spring insulating gasket; 12. Rear suspension spring; 13. Shock absorber rod mounting pads; 14. Compression stroke buffer; 15. Shock absorber rod; 16. Shock absorber protective cover; 17. Lower support cup of the suspension spring; 18. Shock absorber; 19. Lever connector; 20. Hub axle: 21. Cap; 22. Wheel hub nut; 23. O-ring; 24. Bearing washer; 25. Wheel bearing; 26. Brake shield; 27. Retaining ring; 28. Mud deflector; 29. Suspension arm flange; 30. Shock absorber bushing; 31. Lever bracket with eye for mounting the shock absorber; 32. Rubber-metal hinge of the suspension arm;

How to check

Before you begin replacing the front or rear bearing of your hub, we recommend that you conduct a simple check of the functionality of this unit. This will allow you to accurately determine the culprit of the malfunction and verify the real need to replace the elements. There are two verification methods, each of which has its own nuances.

Replacing the front hub of Lada Granta

1. We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide priority safety measures.
2. Let's jack up the right (left) side.
3. Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel.
4. Let's unlock the hub.
5. On the back side, unscrew the two bolts that guide the brake caliper.

Location of two bolts

1. We remove the caliper, hang it on a wire (we fix it on the steering tip).

1. Unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc.

Removing the hub nut

1. We unscrew the two bolts - the rack clamps. If necessary, we use a liquid to remove deposits like WD-40.

1. Disconnect the strut with the steering knuckle and unscrew the ball joint fasteners.
2. We remove the CV joint.

Next, install the new hub assembly and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of Lada Granta

1. The front hub joint is located in the steering knuckle housing, remove it. Pre-clamp the structure in a stationary vice.
2. We install the metal spacer - the head at “22” on the surface of the hub. We apply targeted blows with a hammer to press it out.

1. We disconnect the inner race of the hinge and remove the separator with metal balls.

1. To remove the outer part of the hinge, use pliers and remove the retaining rings.

Features of disassembling the rear wheel chassis

1. After removing the wheel, the brake drum is unscrewed and removed, then the hub nut is unscrewed with a 30 mm socket.
2. The hub can be pressed out of the seat by screwing others 130 mm long (M12×1.25) into it in place of the wheel bolts so that their ends rest against the fastening bolts. Tighten these bolts one by one and remove the hub.

Curved legs engage the clip on both sides, and the rod is screwed in the middle, resting against the center of the trunnion, thus the old part is pulled out of its seat. This type of puller with two or three legs is quite common; if desired, you can find it from familiar car enthusiasts or purchase it in a store. This device is multi-purpose and can subsequently come to the rescue in the most unexpected situation.

Sooner or later the time comes to change the front wheel bearing of the VAZ-2114. This procedure cannot be called simple, since many elements will have to be disassembled. Also, a very significant fact is the identification of the malfunction and the selection of the part. Therefore, this article will discuss exactly this.

Removal and installation of the rear hub, replacement of the rear wheel bearing in VAZ 2110, 2112

We will show you how to remove and install the rear hub with your own hands, replace the rear wheel bearing in VAZ 2110, 2112, 2111 cars and, in principle, for most front-wheel drive VAZ cars, the instructions are suitable. First, remove the wheel bolts and jack up the car. Remove the plastic boot, unscrew the rear drum mounting studs:

Remove the brake drum. If difficulty arises here, then use a puller with rotary grips. We unscrew the hub nut, to do this we take a 30mm socket, a knob and make a lever from a hollow pipe:

You can start removing the hub, to do this we take our puller and grab the hub from all sides, with our rotary grips, we twist the rod, thereby squeezing the hub out of the axle shaft:

We still have a race from the bearing on the axle shaft; it also needs to be removed. This can also be done with a universal puller, albeit of a slightly different type; it can be purchased at any fairly large auto store. To remove the retaining rings, you will need pliers (preferably with curved edges); after removing the retaining rings, you can try to remove the remains of the wheel bearing. This can be done by knocking out using available means. Afterwards, you can take a new wheel bearing, carefully lubricate its seat with lithol, and install everything in the reverse order.

Video of removing and installing the rear hub, replacing the rear wheel bearing in the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2111:

Backup video material:

The device of the hub on the Lada Grant

Front

• rounded fist;
• external and internal dirt-reflective metal rings;
• front roller bearings;
• hub;
• washer;
• hub nut;
• retaining ring, plug.

Rear hub device

• hub mechanism axis;
• metal ball bearing;
• mud ring;
• retaining ring;
• washer;
• screw;
• sealing ring;
• rubber boot;
• hub cover.

Resource for replacing hub mechanism elements

The average service life of wheel joints is 80 – 85 thousand km. The indicator is average, as it depends on the following factors:

• quality of workmanship of the part;
• frequency of operation of the technical device;
• driving style;
• quality of road surface;
• aggressive environment;
• high operating temperatures;
• compliance with technical inspection intervals.

Signs that a hub needs to be replaced

• the appearance of uncharacteristic noise during wheel rotation;
• wheel runout in the steering column;
• vibrations at different speeds. Sometimes there is vibration at a certain speed;
• metallic grinding noise as the wheel rotates;
• front wheel hub play.

Diagnostics of the hub mechanism

1. We place the car on a level platform, squeeze the parking brake if we are checking the front row. For the rear, we install wheel chocks.
2. Let's jack up the front (rear) part.
3. We turn the car wheel and carry out troubleshooting.
4. We shake the wheel up and down with our hands. In good condition there should be no play. Otherwise, we dismantle and replace worn elements.

Symptoms of malfunction

The first symptom of a malfunction will be a noise heard from the rear of the car. This means that the mechanism runs out of lubricant and the metal parts begin to rub against each other. The next thing that will happen is that vibration will be added to the body, which will be caused by slight wear of the element. When a part is on the verge of failure, an unpleasant smell will be felt, as if the brake pads are stuck in the drum. It is better not to let this happen, as the wheel begins to jam and the bearing can fall apart at any moment.

Changing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

Do-it-yourself replacement of the VAZ 2115 wheel bearing

Problems with the brake system or wheel bearing can be diagnosed by characteristic squeaks or knocking noises in the front (wheel area). If the brake system is in order, you will need to diagnose the wheel bearing and replace it if necessary.

To check the wheel bearing, you need to compare the temperature of the wheel rim at the end of a long trip on the side where the squeaks and knocks are coming from. If the disc is too hot, it means the pads are sticking or the wheel bearing is faulty. The latter can lead to wheel misalignment, which usually leads to friction.

To check everything more thoroughly, you need to use a lift or jack.

Raise the tire that is causing some doubt with a jack and rock its lower part, holding it with both hands. If you feel play and a dull knock appears, the wheel bearing needs to be replaced.

Rear hub bearing for VAZ 2108-2112, Priora, Kalina, Granta

• Manufacturer: VPZ-23
• 0 reviews

• Description
• Characteristics
• Video
• Reviews 0 ? '(' + product.reviewsCount +')' : »>>

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending the rear wheel bearing, please indicate your car model and year of manufacture in the “Comment” line.

All VAZ cars are equipped with only three types of wheel bearings - rear wheel hub bearings, hub bearings for front-wheel drive VAZ cars and wheel bearings for Kalina and Grant cars, which are smaller in size.

Hubs play a very important role. Without them, the wheels will not rotate at the required speed, which will first lead to damage to the brake system, and then to failure of the entire car.

1 – hub axis; 2 – dirt-reflecting ring; 3 – retaining ring; 4 – bearing; 5 – wheel hub; 6 – thrust washer; 7 – nut; 8 – sealing ring; 9 – hub cap

The rear wheel hub uses a double-row ball bearing of the HUB-1 type, with closed working surfaces, has no flanges for attachment to the hub, and does not require lubrication and adjustment during vehicle operation.

If you hear a noise, a characteristic noise or a certain hum in the rear of your car, which only intensifies when entering a turn, this indicates an urgent need to replace the rear wheel bearing on your VAZ 2110.

If the hum is heard on only one side, then only one bearing is damaged. But most likely the second one doesn’t have much time left either. Buying two bearings as a set will be cheaper than buying them separately.

When pressing out the wheel hubs, the bearings are destroyed. Therefore, pressing out the hubs should be carried out only in cases of increased bearing noise or a significant increase in the gap in them: more than 0.015 mm in the front and more than 0.030 in the rear.

Other article numbers of the product and its analogues in the catalogues: 21080310402000, 21080310402002.

VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109-099, VAZ 2110-2111, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2113-2115, VAZ 1117-1119, 2170, Kalina 2, Granta, Datsun.

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently replace the rear wheel bearing on a front-wheel drive VAZ family car.

AvtoAzbuka online store, repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and BE SURE.

Don't forget to share the information you find with your friends and acquaintances, because they may also need it - just click one of the social networking buttons located above.

How to check

Before you begin replacing the front or rear bearing of your hub, we recommend that you conduct a simple check of the functionality of this unit. This will allow you to accurately determine the culprit of the malfunction and verify the real need to replace the elements.

There are two verification methods, each of which has its own nuances.

Verification method

What to do

After a long ride, touch the area of ​​the wheel where the noise is coming from.

If the area is hot compared to the other side, the bearing needs to be replaced

It will be useful: Where is the VAZ-2112 starter relay located: diagram and photo

Raise the car, unscrew the wheel bolts, lift the side you are checking. Rock the wheel with more force

If the sound is dull, have a second person apply the brake and repeat the procedure. If there is no noise, the bearing must be replaced

Replacing front wheel bearings

The tools for repairs remain the same, except for the puller. If you have a universal one, then it will be suitable for the job. But if it’s for the rear bearings, then no – you’ll have to buy another one. The procedure is completely similar, only a disk is installed instead of a drum. It should also be noted that the hub fits onto the outer CV joint and is connected to it using splines. Otherwise, there are no differences, even the VAZ 2114 spare parts are almost identical.

The bearing sizes are different, so installation from the rear axle to the front will not work. When working, be careful not to damage the brake disc. If it has a large output, then it is advisable to replace it with a new one.

Please note that discs and drums (as well as pads) should be replaced in pairs. That is, if you installed new ones on the left front wheel, please do the same on the right one

Otherwise, beats may occur, and when braking, the car will be pulled to the side.

Self-replacement of the VAZ 2115 wheel bearing

2. Remove the mounting bolts.

5. Using a “30” wrench, remove the central nut securing the hub.

6. Disconnect the drive shaft CV joint from the hub and remove the caliper along with the disc.

7. Remove the two mounting bolts that secure the ball joint to the lower arm.

9. Using a suitable extension, knock the hub out of the steering knuckle. For this it is better to use a special puller.

Good advice: Fix the steering knuckle on the lower arm by connecting it to the ball joint arm, in this position it will not interfere with you.

11. Install a special puller on the steering knuckle.

12. Install the outer snap ring into the steering knuckle using pliers.

14. As a rule, when the hub is knocked out of the steering knuckle, the inner race of the bearing comes out with it. Therefore, if you have the necessary puller for this, then with its help you can easily remove the ring, but if you don’t have it, then you will have to use a grinder to remove it. In the second case, you need to be extremely careful not to accidentally damage the hub, otherwise you will have to change it as well.

15. Install the hub onto the puller, thread the puller into the steering knuckle. Place the puller against the inner ring of the bearing and press the hub into the bearing. If there is no puller, the bearing can be driven in using a tool and a hammer.

How to change the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2114 front

As practice shows, the most common cause of wheel bearing failure is the too long service life of this part. Like other spare parts, bearings have a limited service life, and therefore there comes a time when they require replacement. The wear of this part is indicated by a characteristic sound resembling a hum. If such a symptom is detected, the best solution would be to replace the wheel bearing in a VAZ-2114 car.

First make sure that it is the bearing that needs to be replaced. After you have driven your car for a long time, touch the area of ​​the wheel that is making the humming noise with your hand. If this area is much hotter than the other side of the wheel, then the bearing does need to be replaced. Another way to check is as follows.

Using a jack, you need to lift the car and unscrew the wheel bolts. You only need to lift the side where the sound is coming from. The raised wheel must be rocked with great effort. If you hear a dull sound, you need to ask someone to press the brake and rock the wheel again. If the noise disappears, then the problem is in the bearing and it needs to be replaced.

Replacement

The first method is that the replacement is carried out without dismantling the steering knuckle. However, you can’t do this without a puller. The main advantage of this technique is that there is no need to adjust the wheel alignment. However, this replacement method is one of the most inconvenient. To reinstall the machine, you will need to drive it into the inspection hole.

The second method involves removing the steering knuckle. In addition, replacement will require a workbench; it is needed to remove the old bearing. With such removal, the camber will be disrupted. To avoid having to go to a service station later, follow these steps during the replacement process:

1. Before removing the lower strut and steering knuckle bolt, mark the position of the bolt and the position in the steering knuckle strut.
2. When performing reassembly, you must ensure that the marks clearly coincide with each other.

In any case, it is better to have a special device for squeezing out and pressing in the wheel bearing. The absence of a puller will significantly complicate the replacement procedure, since in this case there will be a need to disassemble and knock out parts that have failed. The tools you will need to replace the bearing are:

• ring and open-end wrenches;
• union head (for unscrewing the bearing nut);
• wheel wrench;
• jack;
• round nose pliers (for removing retaining rings);
• rags;
• gloves.

Start by disassembling the chassis. Replacing the front bearing is a simpler procedure than replacing the rear one. After you have lifted the wheel, you need to loosen the hub nuts. Remove the decorative cap and remove the boot from the socket. Place the prepared socket on the nut and loosen it using a lever and a wrench. After this, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.

After this, you need to remove the brake caliper. To do this, unscrew the two bolts and move the caliper in any direction so that it does not interfere with further work. Secure it with rope or wire to the lower arm. Remove the brake disc.

Using round-nose pliers, remove the retaining rings (located on both sides of the bearing). Use a puller to press out the bearing. The rear cup must be rested against the steering knuckle. The front one should be placed on the holder.

If you do not have a puller, it is better to completely dismantle the steering knuckle. The bearing can be knocked out using a hammer and round bits. Then put the steering knuckle in place. Place a new bearing in the seat and reassemble.

Often, car owners in the process of performing this work are faced with such a problem as the inability to tighten the clip without damage. A situation may arise when the race of the old failed bearing remains on the hub or (in the case of the rear wheel) on the axle axle. To remove without damage or other negative consequences, it is best to use a two-jaw puller for these purposes.

Using the “paws” you need to hook the clip on different sides, and screw the rod in the middle. It should rest against the center of the axle axis. In this position it will be possible to pull the old bearing out of place. This type of puller is quite widespread among car enthusiasts and car service technicians. You can find it in almost any auto store.

Photo report on replacing the rear wheel bearing on VAZ 2114 and 2115 cars

So, the first thing you need to do is remove the cap of the nut and rip it off using a good wrench. Then lift the rear of the car with a jack, having first loosened the wheel bolts. And after that you can completely remove the wheel.

Next you will need to remove the brake drum. It is not necessary to remove the pads, although they have already been removed in this report.

Unscrew the hub nut completely, as shown in the photo below.

When the nut is completely unscrewed, you should also immediately remove the washer using a screwdriver or magnetic handle. And now, use a puller to remove the entire hub assembly from the axle shaft:

By turning the puller rod, the hub itself slides off the axle shaft and can be completely removed without any problems:

If the inner race of the bearing remains on the axle shaft, which sometimes happens, you can remove it using the same puller. Then we take the hub assembly and clamp it in a vice so that the inner side is directed upward. And using pliers, remove the retaining ring:

And then you can turn the hub over:

We take a drift of a suitable size and use it to knock out the old bearing. I did this using a large socket and wrench:

And after some work we get the following result.

We can say that the dismantling of the bearing was successful. Now we take the lubricant and apply it in a fairly generous amount to the inside of the hub.

And we align the new wheel bearing exactly in the center:

And in order to press the new one evenly without distortions, it is better to use the old bearing for this purpose. When it goes deep enough, you can finally press it in.

This must be done until a groove appears for installing the retaining ring.

After this, lubricate the axle shaft with lithol and put the hub assembly in its place. The price of a new bearing is about 300 rubles, but if assembled with a hub - at least 700 rubles.

Recommendations and features for replacing the rear bearing

1. Purchase spare parts for VAZ only in trusted stores, if possible, order from the manufacturer. 2. Replace both sides at once; they wear out evenly.3. For an option for installing a part without the use of an impact tool and without a puller, read the link. 4. To remove the inner race from the axle shaft without a puller, use a sharp chisel, or make a notch on the ring with a grinder and split it. 5. Watch a video of replacing a bearing on a VAZ 2114, this will speed up the repair process.

1. When to replace
2. Symptoms of a problem
3. Checking status
4. Selection of ZPS
5. Replacement

Many experts agree that on the VAZ 2109, like other domestic cars, the rear wheel bearing (RH) is a weak point. This is not due to the low quality of the products. It's all because of the condition of the roads.

New bearings

Considering the condition of the road surface, as well as the need to have a car always ready for travel, replacing a faulty bearing should be done in a timely manner. Otherwise, the consequences of operating a car with a worn bearing could result in expensive repairs and an accident.

How and which bearing to choose?

Choosing a new part is often quite difficult, because there are many nuances that play a big role. When choosing a new bearing, you should always pay attention to the quality of the product, technical specifications, certificate and packaging confirming originality. But in addition to the original VAZ2114 rear wheel bearing, there are many replacements that are also available and recommended for purchase. We advise you to familiarize yourself with all existing options for replacing a faulty part.

Original part

2108-3104020

2108-3104020-02

2108-3104020 and 2108-3104020-02 are the original numbers of the rear wheel bearing for the VAZ2114. This car part with this number is made at AvtoVAZ factories. It fits the seat exactly and its approximate price is 2000 rubles.

Analogue parts options

In addition to the original bearing models, there are many other equally high-quality options that are also suitable for installation. And these are the options that most drivers of VAZ 2114 cars choose, since sometimes the quality and service life of these parts exceeds even the original bearings. But it is not recommended to buy bearings from an unknown manufacturer.

Some nuances and recommendations for selecting, purchasing and installing a rear wheel bearing:

1. You should only buy bearings in original stores or order from factories!
2. Change parts on both sides, because they have the same service life.

A little about the device and functionality

The main purpose of the part is to ensure uniform rotation of the car wheels. Given the name of the part, it is easy to guess that wheel bearings are the connecting link between the hub and the axle to which the brake disc and wheel are attached.

The design of the part fully corresponds to the classic type of rolling bearings. These are two metal rings into which conical rollers are pressed, protected from the body by a durable rubber insulator.

Unlike foreign competitors, domestic bearings are created using outdated HUB technology. They are quite difficult to install, require very precise tightening torque and require plenty of lubrication.

The operation of the mechanism lasts for several years. It is recommended to change a spare part for a VAZ 2114 approximately once every 100 thousand kilometers. But negative operating factors can accelerate the wear process:

• Bad roads. The entire force of the shock load falls on this mechanism of the system. Over time, the metal gets tired and the bearing begins to fail.
• Aggressive reagents. In Russia, in order to save money in winter, aggressive chemicals are often used to remove ice from roads.
• Sudden temperature changes. In winter, owners of warm garages unknowingly shorten the service life of many metal parts, for which sudden temperature changes when leaving and entering the garage create a large load.

Getting to know the journal bearing

To begin with, I suggest the simplest thing - getting to know the device. The support bearing (OS) is necessary to create a movable connection between the machine body and the shock absorber. On VAZ 2110, 2114 cars, models such as Grant, Kalina, Priora, as well as on all kinds of foreign cars Mitsubishi, Volkswagen, Fiat or Toyota, for example, the location of the OP is approximately the same - the upper part of the pillar. Install the bearing between the support and the upper cup (or cup, anyone) of the shock absorber spring.

If we look at it purely from a design point of view, then we have a variation of rolling bearings. But OP differs from them in the large thickness of the outer ring. The rolling bodies are cylindrical rollers. They are placed perpendicularly and separated from each other. Due to this design, the unit can take on loads from different sides.

The task of the OP is to provide the shock absorbers with the ability to rotate freely in the supports. In any car, be it a Ford Focus or Mondeo, Chevrolet Lanos, Cruze, Lacetti, Aveo, Daewoo Nexia, Hyundai Accent or Skoda Octavia, the OP will always be slightly higher than the front spring. The shock absorber rod will pass through the central cavity of the element. Shock absorber bodies are always mounted to the body where the OP is located. As a result, two types of loads act on the support - axial and radial.

Before you replace and buy a new element to replace the old OP, you need to understand their types. This is where we will start. Do you agree? Then go ahead.

Types of OP

It’s difficult to say for sure which OP is better to buy. Much depends on the specific car. How to check if OP is good or not? First, ask how much the bearings cost. Good parts cannot be cheap. But it’s not worth chasing the most expensive models if you have a budget car. Try to choose the golden mean.

Besides the fact that you need to look at the manufacturer, the specific type of bearing will be an important consideration. There are several varieties of this device.

• OP having a built-in inner or outer ring. For installation, mounting holes on the housing are used, so there is no need for clamping flanges.
• OP, in which the inner ring is separated. Structurally, the outer ring is connected to the body. It is important to take such devices in cases where you need to achieve the most accurate rotation of the outer ring.
• OP having a detachable outer ring. This is the opposite version of the previous bearing. Accordingly, they are taken if necessary to obtain precise rotation of the internal element.
• Single split bearings. The outer ring on such OPs is divided into one precisely. With their help, high rigidity values ​​are achieved.

Sooner or later the fault will manifest itself. This mainly occurs due to dirt, sand and moisture getting into the unit. On average, the first signs of a malfunction appear after about 50-75 thousand kilometers. Replacement is recommended every 100 thousand kilometers.

Symptoms of a problem

The wheel bearing has a large margin of safety, but since the loads it constantly experiences during movement are very large, sooner or later it wears out to such an extent that it becomes ineffective. You should not delay replacing a faulty wheel bearing, as this risks causing it to fall apart while driving. This will inevitably lead to instant blocking of the wheel, which, when driving at a sufficiently high speed, very often becomes the cause of a serious accident.

Even if you are lucky enough not to get into an accident, operating a car with a non-working wheel bearing will gradually lead to failure of the entire strut, and replacing it is a much more complex and expensive process.

The faulty condition of the wheel bearing can be judged by the appearance of extraneous sounds during movement - knocking or buzzing from the side where the faulty part is located, which after some time, if no measures are taken, turn into vibration that radiates to both the steering wheel and the body part . This sign already poses a serious threat - if it comes to vibration, in the near future you can expect the collapse of the “dead” bearing with all the problems associated with it.

How to check a wheel bearing?

The procedure is quite simple and banal: after a long ride, you need to touch the part of the wheel where the extraneous sound comes from. If it is hotter than the other side, this is the first sign that the bearing needs to be replaced.

It is possible to carry out diagnostics in more detail. Raise the car with a jack, first unscrewing the wheel bolts. Place the wheel chocks and fully raise the side you are checking.

Then you need to take the wheel and rock it with maximum effort. If there is a dull knock, you need to ask a friend to apply the brakes. Carry out the procedure again, if the knocking noise disappears, then the wheel bearing needs to be replaced.

Which bearing is better to choose?

This part can be either Russian or foreign made. Many craftsmen recommend Vologda bearings, which are not of poor quality, and Samara bearings.

The quality is not bad, and the price is much lower. It is not recommended to buy Chinese counterfeits. The wheel bearing measures 64/34/37 millimeters.

As for the tools, if you don’t have a puller for removing the front or rear wheel bearings of VAZ cars, and especially if you don’t have any repair experience at all, then in this case you shouldn’t start work and you need to contact a service station.

Although if you have at least some skills, then the bearing can be knocked out using improvised means.

You will also need a socket wrench (head) for thirty and keys for seventeen and nineteen.

Hub functions

The main part of the car chassis assembly that experiences the heaviest loads is the hub, both front and rear. Because it is an intermediate part connecting the wheels and suspension of the car. If this important part breaks down, there is a threat to all road users. Each wheel has its own hub. The wheel is rigidly attached to the hub and performs a rotational movement around its axis, and the hub is attached rigidly to the car’s suspension. Depending on what kind of drive the car has, the functions of the hub differ. If the car has rear driving wheels, then the rear wheel hubs perform an additional function - this is the redistribution of torque from the crankshaft to the wheel. It turns out that the rear hub of such cars is an element of the transmission, and not just the chassis. The following parts are attached to the wheel hub - brake discs or drums. Inexpensive machines have drums installed. Therefore, another function of the rear wheel hub is to provide braking. In addition, the hub serves as a location for installing various sensors (speed, ABS, control and other technical indicators) that modern cars are equipped with. These are the functions of the rear hub:

• Ensuring rigid, reliable fixation of the wheel to the suspension.
• Ensuring the wheel rotates around its axis.
• Maintains anti-lock braking and braking systems.
• Serves as a mounting location for various sensors.

Installing the wheel bearing

Be careful! When installing a bearing, force must be applied only to its outer ring.

We take the outer ring from the old bearing and use it as a mandrel when pressing the new bearing into the hub

Using a puller, install the bearing retaining ring

Install the hub back onto the axle

• We put the thrust washer in place and lightly tighten the hub nut
• By tightening the nut, we gradually press the bearing onto the axle.
• We install the brake drum in place and screw the wheel
• Removing the jack
• We finally tighten the hub nut to a torque of 186.3–225.6 N m (19–23 kgf m) and core the edge of the nut into the groove on the axle.
• We put the cap in place.

Bearing 256706

Its main area of ​​application is the rear wheel bearing of VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112 cars. It has the following design characteristics - ball, angular contact, double-row, closed type (seals on both sides). Since it has two rows of rolling elements, it is capable of fixing the shaft under axial load in both directions. There is a roller analogue of this bearing - 537906, it has an increased load capacity, but also a lower rotation speed.

Since VAZ cars are widely used not only in our country, but also abroad, the demand for rear hub bearings is very high - they are produced at four factories in our country: JSC Saratov Bearing Plant (labeled SPZ) - produces according to According to experts, these are the best rear wheel bearings in our country, and they are not very expensive. 23 GPZ (or VBF, Vologda) - among motorists it is considered the best plant, but Saratov bearings are in no way inferior to them in durability, are less likely to be counterfeited and are a little cheaper. SPZ-4 (Samara) - produces products for those who are used to saving. But if you need a high-quality rear wheel bearing, it is best to pay attention to the manufacturers presented above. 20 GPP (Kursk) - currently not produced.

Domestic bearings are produced in accordance with GOST 520-2002, imported in accordance with ISO 15:1998. According to the international designation system, the number of this bearing is BA2B33313C.

Technical parameters and dimensions of rear hub bearing 256706:

• Inner diameter (d): 30mm;
• Outer diameter (D): 60mm;
• Width (H): 37 mm;
• Weight: 0.4 kg;
• Ball diameter: 9.525 mm;
• Number of balls: 28 pcs.;
• Dynamic load capacity: 30.1 kN;
• Static load capacity: 25.9 kN;

Rated speed: 6500 rpm. In addition to a jack and a wheel wrench, you will need: a socket wrench set to “30”, plus a long pipe for it; pliers for removing retaining rings; simple pliers or a 12" spanner (for unscrewing the guide pins of the rear brake drum), a wooden block and a hammer; You may need a chisel and a pry bar. And most importantly, to remove and install the bearing you will need a universal puller for pressing out wheel bearings. It is advisable to purchase it. With its help, you can change not only the rear wheel bearing, but also the front one, and not only on your favorite nine or ten. Of course, you can carry out the replacement without it (as will be written below), but with it it’s still more convenient and faster.

ALL THE TOOLS WE NEED

THE SAME FILMER

Now about the main thing - the procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearing on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2112, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115, VAZ-1119:

1) Put the car in 1st gear and place “shoes” under the front wheels. Loosen the wheel bolts and jack up the car. We remove the wheel.

2) Unscrew the guide pins (guides), if there are any, and remove the brake drum (if you can’t just remove it, then use a hammer and a wooden adapter to knock it down).

3) Unscrew the hub nut, use a 30mm head and use a puller to knock the hub off the axle (if you don’t have a puller, you can screw the wheel to the hub and jerk it off, or use two pry bars).

Further, there are two options for the development of events. The first, successful option, the hub came off “softly” and there was no inner bearing ring left on the axle. The second, not the lucky option, the inner ring remained on the trunnion. If everything is clear with the first option, you can immediately proceed to pressing out the bearing, then the second option can only mean one thing for you - additional work. In order to remove the ring from the axle, you will first have to remove the brake pads and then, using a chisel, tear the ring off the seat. Next, using a tension puller or a pair of pry bars, we pull the bearing ring off the axle.

EVERYTHING IS CUT

4) Using special pliers, remove the retaining ring

and knock down the metal boot (if you are going to press out the bearing, if you knock it out, then you do not need to remove it).

5) Press out or knock out the old bearing.

KNOCKING OUT

6) When everything is knocked out, we take a new bearing and lithol lubricant. Lubricate the bearing seat in the hub and press the bearing into place.

In the absence of a puller, the bearing can be pressed using a vice and the outer race of the old bearing. Hammering the bearing is NOT recommended!

IN A VICE

WITH PULLER

7) Install the retaining ring and metal boot.

We stuff the axle or hub with a mandrel (a head or a pipe of suitable diameter), and hit the inner ring of the bearing.

9) Tighten the nut and jam the side.

10) We assemble the pads (if you removed them), put on the brake drum and wheel.

REINFORCED SS-20

ONE SS-20, THE OTHER PRIOROVSKY, FOR COMPARISON

I won’t describe the whole replacement process, everything is already very easy to change, I unscrewed the 17mm nut, removed the old one and installed the new one and screwed everything back.

BECAME, RIGHT SIDE

IT'S ON THE LEFT SIDE

Necessary tool

Before you start work, you need to prepare all the tools and assemble them in one place:

• Special puller for bearing removal.
• Collar.
• Head at "30".
• Keys or sockets for “17” and “19”.
• Mandrel for knocking out the hub.
• New wheel bearings.

The tool is assembled and ready to use

Preparatory work

Make sure that the workplace is well lit, and it is best if it is on a viewing hole or a lift. Because this is the only way to talk about high convenience when carrying out such work. It would also be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the detailed diagram of the location of the bearing on the front hub of the VAZ-2112.

Thanks to this illustration, the diagram becomes very clear.

Step-by-step work order

First of all, we place the car in a stationary state, put on the handbrake, and, if desired, install wheel chocks. And while the car is on the surface, we tear off all the bolts on the front wheels.

We unscrew the torn bolts and put them aside. We remove the wheel.

Next, we need to use a “30” wrench to unscrew the hub nut

Please note that during its dismantling, you will have to press the brake pedal, and for this we will need an assistant. Then, using a screwdriver, press out the calipers. When this operation is completed, having the key at “17” at hand, unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles.

Then, using a screwdriver, press out the calipers. When this operation is completed, having the key at hand at “17”, unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles.

1. Carefully unscrew the brake disc from the hub.
2. Then, making gentle blows, we release the hub.
3. And then the CV joint from the bearing.

Replacing the wheel bearing

Then, when access to the hub bearing is completely open, there are several ways to replace it.

First way

In this case, it is necessary to have a special puller to remove the bearing.

1. First you need to take care of removing the stopper.
2. Using this device, you simply remove the old bearing and install a new one in its place.
3. After this, we carry out the entire assembly process in the same order as removal.

• The advantages of this method include the fact that during this work there is no need to touch the wheel alignment bolt, therefore, you will not have to add additional work.
• The disadvantages of this method include inconvenience during the process. Because you have to contrive and take an extremely uncomfortable position.

Second way

To carry out this work, it is necessary to carefully dismantle the steering knuckle and completely remove the hub.

• Moving to the workbench, we replace the wheel bearing.
• To do this, dismantle the retaining ring and knock the bearing out of its seat, or press it out.
• Next, we perform the installation in reverse order, having previously cleaned the surface of the hub.

Advice! Before you begin removing the alignment bolts, mark their position with a marker or chalk. In this case, the marks should indicate the current position of the bolt on the rack and the previous location of the knuckles. Thanks to such marks, during assembly it will be much easier to navigate the position of these bolts. Although it will not be possible to return to the previous state, it will still be possible to minimize it.

Stages of self-repair

The entire process of self-repair can be divided into several stages, after carefully reading them, any owner will understand how to repair a car without having the skills of a professional car mechanic; it is enough to follow the following steps:

It is necessary to drive the car into a room with a flat floor, turn it off, engage first gear in the gearbox, place a stop under the front wheels for safety, remove the rear wheel from the desired side, first jacking up the car

It is important to take into account here that the vehicle cannot be put on the hand parking brake, otherwise it will be impossible to remove the brake drum and disassemble the rear hub assembly. Having removed the wheel, we proceed to unscrew the rear hub mounting nut, which tends to be very tight due to rotational axial loads, so you may need to apply the maximum possible force to break it off. At this stage, begin to remove the brake drum

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws that secure the drum. Then carefully (using a small block), knock on the drum with a hammer from the back side over its entire surface (before dismantling, it is advisable to treat its seat with WD 40 liquid and treat it with a brush, which will significantly simplify the removal of the part).

The next step is to remove the hub from its axis; to do this, you need to use a special puller that will carefully remove the part. Here it is worth considering that the inner race of the wheel bearing can remain on the axle, and it can be pressed out in two ways: using a wheel puller, or using a chisel and carefully knocking it down with a hammer.

Next, we proceed to pressing the oldest bearing out of its seat in the hub, for which we remove two retaining rings, and remove it from there using a press or using a specialized puller. If you don't have a press or puller, you can use a hammer to simply knock the old bearing out of the rear suspension assembly.

Having completely dismantled the old part, it is necessary to thoroughly clean all the seats and the axle on the axle (dirt-repellent shield of the rear brake pads) from dirt, after which everything is carefully inspected for various damages, and if any are found, the damaged unit must be replaced with a new one. The bearing seat is lubricated both in the hub and on its axle, then it is carefully pressed in or driven in with a hammer through a buffer (usually the old bearing race is used), the retaining rings are installed in their places, and the assembled unit is mounted on the axle, after which the locking hub nut is tightened . The remaining parts are assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.

• Also watch the step-by-step execution of the work with the explanation of the master in the video: