Operations for removing the front suspension arm of the Lada Granta
We hang the car, remove the wheel from the side where we will remove the lever. Remove the engine protection. We remove the ball joint, see the article “Removing the ball joint from the Lada Granta.” Holding the extension with a 24-mm open-end wrench, use a spanner of the same size to unscrew the extension nut.
Unscrew the bolt securing the link connecting the arm and the anti-roll bar. Often, if the bolts have not been changed or loosened for a long time, they can break. It is best to have spares before removing the lever.
Use a soft metal drift to knock out and remove the bolt. Do not damage the thread.
Using two 19mm wrenches, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body.
We remove (or knock out) the bolt and remove the lever from the bracket.
Remove the washer from the stretcher and remove the lever.
On the extension behind the large washer there are washers for adjusting the pitch angle of the rack's rotation axis (the photo shows three washers, there may be another number)
Clean up the washers and install them back in the same quantity. If the levers are removed from both sides, mark the washers so that they can be installed in their places.
Pressing in the silent block
To press in the new silent block, we need the old wheel bearing, namely its inner race. It consists of two separate parts that have a large chamfer, with the help of which we will tuck the side of the silent block into the lever. This is what one inner half of the wheel bearing looks like.
Using a bolt with a nut, washers and the internal parts of the wheel bearing, we assemble such a sandwich.
We generously lubricate everything with silicone grease, coat the threads of the bolt and washer with lithol or something similar and begin tightening the nut (pressing in the silent block). We tighten it until the silent block is completely installed in its place, disassemble everything, and rejoice. If everything is done correctly, then replacement does not take much time and effort.
Replacing silent blocks in the front suspension arm of a Lada Granta
To replace the silent block for attaching the Lada Granta lever, you will need a vice. We press out the silent block with a suitable piece of pipe. We moisten the new silent block with soapy water and press it into the lever, also using a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter.
We knock down the silent block of the extension installation with a chisel. There are two of them, on one side and the other.
Having removed from one side, remove in the same way from the second.
We press the new silent block in a vice...
...and finally press it, striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order. Tightening the threaded connections of all rubber-to-metal hinges of the front suspension arm of the Lada Granta must be done when the car is standing on its wheels, on a flat surface.
Every car enthusiast tries to pay as much attention as possible to his swallow. We have to change consumables on time and deal with broken parts. If you suspect that the silent blocks of the grant have served their purpose, then you need to quickly drive the car into the pit. It is worth paying attention to the harbingers.
Often there is an incomprehensible dull knock in the suspension either on the right or left. There can be knocking for various reasons, but the silent block of the grant is one of the popular ones. Speaking about the reasons, you can go through the options for a long time, because it could be a support, a rod in a rack, or a box bracket. It is worth paying attention to such a detail as stretching, it is often the cause.
Pressing out the silent block
To press out the old silent block, you need to cut off the rubber side on one side. You can cut the rubber with a simple knife, or you can cut it down with a hacksaw. Then, through any suitable iron spacer, we simply knock the silent block out of the lever. You need to hit it hard, preferably with a sledgehammer, don’t be afraid, you won’t break anything. In the picture below there is already a knocked out silent block with a cut off side.
Instead of a sledgehammer, you can use a heavy-duty vice if you have one. You can burn the rubber with a blowtorch or gas torch. You can drill several holes in the rubber and then knock out the weakened silent block. All options are working, choose the one that is more convenient for you. But, as a rule, just knocking it out is faster and easier (necessarily with a cut side).
Next, we clean the hole for the silent block from rust using a round file or sandpaper and lubricate it with soapy water or silicone grease. I strongly do not recommend using anything else as a lubricant, such as lithol, solid oil, fiol, CV joint, etc. Since such lubricants negatively affect the condition of rubber products. Therefore, only silicone or soap solution.
At this point, the operations of pressing out and preparing the lever for installing a new silent block can be considered completed.
What to do about the knocking?
If you do not pay attention to the problem and do not change the silent blocks on the grant, the knocking will become increasingly stronger. Therefore, it’s time to drive the car into the pit, remove the engine protection, and look at all the details. You can swing the car from the desired side, whether you hear a knock or not, but it will happen if the silent block on the grant has become completely unusable. If the problem is in the stretcher, then you need to pull it too, the resulting knock will be proof that the cause of the breakdown has been found.
You can replace the silent blocks with grants, the price of which seems reasonable, right in the pit, without the need to remove the levers.
Tools required:
1. 2 keys for 24. 2. Extension tubes. 3. Head 17. 4. Thin screwdriver. 5. Punch, it is better to give preference to the canonical one. 6. A hammer, it will hardly be possible to do without it in work when the silent blocks of the grant need to be replaced.
We install new silent blocks
Now the moment has come when you can install new silent blocks on the Lada Granta, the main thing is to know how to press them in. The landing site will need to be pre-lubricated, you can use graphite lubricant, then the nut is screwed on, the silent blocks of the grant are pressed in, the price for them is not high. In this case, you can do without special devices that allow you to press parts. And you don’t need to remove the lever itself, as some people do.
When you have figured out how to change the silent blocks on the grant, it is worth remembering that after replacing you need to loosen the nut so that you can attach the crab. It must be taken into account that the holes intended for fastening are displaced. So Lada Granta, replacing silent blocks is not complete without a hammer, which is useful for adjusting the holes. It will be necessary to use it on both sides.
After replacing the silent blocks on the grant is completed, you may encounter an amazing effect. Drivers notice that the roughness in steering disappears, the steering wheel becomes more obedient, and the road holds without problems. Therefore, if there is a suspicion that the silent blocks of the front levers of the grant have become unusable, it is better to immediately look for the cause and replace them. As a result, you will receive a machine whose performance will only please you.
How difficult is the job?
Any novice craftsman can cope with such repairs; the silent block of the grant will be shown in the photo; it is not difficult at all. It is worth doing the work in the following sequence. You need to hold the stretcher with one key, and use the second to unscrew the nut. Now you need to unscrew the 3 bolts that secure the crab, after which replacing the silent blocks of the fret grant involves removing the brace.
The attractive price for the grant silent block will allow you to purchase parts without extra costs. When you try to remove the stretcher, the rubber part may fall out towards you. Please note that the part also has metal clips; you will also have to deal with them. To do this, you can use a screwdriver and a hammer, or take a drift; you can see the work on replacing silent blocks in the video grant.
Rear suspension
Unlike the front, it has undergone virtually no changes. Here, just like on the first Soviet G8s, a semi-independent beam is used. It is attached to the body on hinges (fortunately, there are no “crabs” in the design). A helical spring with constant stiffness is used as an elastic element. To dampen vibrations and prevent swinging, two shock absorbers are used.
- High reliability. The design does not have additional levers, which, in addition, can bend when falling into a large hole.
- Energy intensity. The Lada Granta absorbs all bumps perfectly, especially if oil shock absorbers are installed at the rear.
- Cheap maintenance. Due to its simple design, this pendant can be rebuilt even with your own hands. And the cost of new rubber-metal elements is unlikely to empty the pockets of even the most stingy car owner.
The main difference between the “Grant” suspension is the wheel alignment angles.
Auto repair school - Do-it-yourself car repair
Sep 21, 2016 VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110, VAZ 1117 Kalina, VAZ 2170 Priora by admin
Broken silent blocks of front suspension arms on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115, VAZ-1119 Kalina, VAZ-2170 Priora cars can be judged by the characteristic sounds that are heard while driving and decreased comfort in driving your iron friend. The car not only begins to rattle, but also loses stability on the road. Also, many people often report problems with silent blocks when trying to do a Wheel Alignment. This is frustrating, but it is worth remembering that this problem is not critical and can be easily resolved on your own. Of course, if you are not afraid to get your hands dirty and spend several hours of your time repairing the car. Otherwise, it is better for you to contact specialists))). I think that you will be able to decide to take on the work yourself or entrust it to others after reading this article. We read, remember, evaluate our strengths and make a choice…. You can also leave comments))!!!
By instrument. To successfully replace the front arm silent blocks on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115, VAZ-1119 Kalina, VAZ-2170 Priora cars, you will need: ring and socket wrenches for 17, 19, 24 , a vice, a hammer, a chisel and a device for pressing silent blocks, which you cannot do without. To press in the silent blocks of the brace (daisies), a vice and a hammer are enough, but dealing with the silent block of the lever will be a little more difficult. To do this, you will have to prepare a device, which consists of an M12 bolt (170 mm), a high nut, a 60 mm long sleeve with an internal diameter of 38 mm, a wide and thick washer. As they say, it is better to see once than to read several times, look at photo 1.
Selection of spare parts! There are two, I can confidently say, equivalent options - silent blocks produced by SEVI or Balakovo (photo 2). Both are high quality and reliable. Yes, and the price is practically the same.
Now let’s move on to the part of the article that will help answer the question - “ How to replace the front arm silent blocks on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115, VAZ-1119 Kalina, VAZ-2170 Priora ":
1. We drive the car into the inspection hole. If there is protection for the engine compartment, remove it. Unscrew the nuts of the front control arm mounting bolts (photo 3). Using 17mm wrenches, unscrew the nut securing the front stabilizer strut to the arm (photo 4). Using a wrench of a suitable diameter, knock out the bolt. Loosen the wheel bolts, jack it up, and remove the wheel.
2. Next, we take a 24mm wrench with a “good” shoulder and try to unscrew the nuts of the extensions, having previously cleaned the threads with a wire brush and moistened them with WD-40 (photo 5). If the nut “goes” easily, unscrew it completely and grab the ball joint, remove it from the steering knuckle by unscrewing the two bolts (photo 6). And remove the lever.
3. But, very often it is difficult to unscrew this extension nut. Difficult, to say the least. Each turn of the nut is given with great effort. In this case, I can advise you not to waste your time and energy, but to remove the lever along with the stretcher and the crab. To do this, you just have to slightly loosen the extension nut on the side of the crab (photo 7) and unscrew the three bolts that secure the crab to the body (photo 8). Remove everything together (photo 9) and in a more comfortable position continue to fight the stuck nut (photo 10). As a last resort, it can be heated and unscrewed or cut with a chisel.
4. The lever has been removed. Let's start by replacing the silent blocks of the extension. We dismantle the old silent blocks with a chisel (photo 11). We clean the eye from rust (photo 12). We take new silent blocks and go to the vice. We press the silent blocks one by one into the lever (photo 13). As a rule, the silent block does not shrink completely, so we place the lever on a flat, hard surface and tighten the silent block with a hammer or sledgehammer (photo 14). Usually 2-3 accurate strikes are enough. You can try silent blocks without a vice, using only a sledgehammer, but this method is suitable only for those who like experiments and self-confident car enthusiasts. Because if you don’t calculate the force of the impact, or your hand trembles, then the silent block is damaged))) Something like this - photo 15. You can also add a ball joint. If you don't like it, you can (or should) replace it. We knock out the old support something like this - photo 16
5. Next we move on to replacing the silent block of the front arm. First you need to remove the old one. If the silent block is completely broken, then it will be enough to pull out the metal bushing (if it has not fallen out on its own) and use a screwdriver to remove the rubber part of the silent block from the eyelet. Otherwise, we install our device as in photo 17 and press out the silent block. Before installation, lubricate the new silent block with soapy water, liquid soap or dishwashing gel and press it in (photos 18 and 19). We tighten the bolt, slowly, if the edge of the silent block is tucked in, we correct it with a screwdriver. In general, stretching will not work as easily as with silent blocks, but it should work in any case.
After installing the lever, tighten the nuts on all silent blocks only after the car is installed on the wheels.
When using an article or photographs, an active direct hyperlink to the website www.avtorem.info is required!
Did you like the article? Share it on your page!
Shock absorber
This element is a damping device. The shock absorber serves to reduce the range of vibrations of the car body. In other words, the element prevents spontaneous rocking. The work of the shock absorber is based on hydraulic resistance. Inside it there is a liquid of a certain viscosity. It moves through a special valve. Thus, the device absorbs sharp impacts while preserving vulnerable suspension parts. Therefore, the shock absorber is one of the most important components in the chassis. On our roads, this element lasts about 60-80 thousand kilometers. But this period may be shorter, even with careful driving. It is enough just to damage the protective boot, and all the dirt will accumulate in the rod seal.
Also note that the damping element changes in pairs. That is, in the event of a breakdown of the rear left shock absorber, the rear right shock absorber also changes. As for the front struts, they are more durable. Often they are replaced already assembled with a spring, since they fail no earlier than after 150-200 thousand kilometers.
Cause of malfunction
The main cause of element malfunction is a violation of the boot seal. Once it starts to crack, dirt and dust will get inside. They act on the ball like an abrasive. As a result, play appears and the support begins to break on its own. Is it possible to repair it? The Lada Granta suspension is designed in such a way that the ball joints cannot be restored and must be replaced entirely with new ones.
Causes of knocking in the front suspension
In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.
- The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface. A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
- If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack. If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
- The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity. Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
- And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.
