VAZ 2115 stalls at idle - what to do, repairs, reasons

If you are the owner of a new or used VAZ car, then most likely you have encountered problems that the car does not hold speed at idle and stalls. The starter can work absolutely normally. However, there are difficulties when the ignition is turned on. But, even if these problems were temporary, it is still necessary to find the cause. And it is advisable to do this faster.

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MAIN REASONS WHEN THE CAR STALLS AT IDLE SPEED

A VAZ car stalls at idle quite often when there is a malfunction of sensors, components or parts. It is also possible that the car's lines, filters, and various elements in the system become contaminated.

If any of the VAZ models, including the Chevrolet Niva, stalls at idle, then first of all you should pay close attention to the quality of gasoline. Problems with starting or incorrect operation of the engine after the next refueling may arise precisely because of low-quality fuel. In this case, it is worth draining all the gasoline and changing the fuel filter.

When these steps do not help, you need to check the spark plugs in the car. The working part is distinguished by the light gray color of the central electrode. The carbon deposits on the candles should be light brown. In case of any deviations from the norm, we can assume that the part has failed. Replace the spark plugs and try to start the engine again.

A faulty ignition module can also cause problems with starting the engine. Knowledge of at least a minimum of electrical engineering will allow you to check its performance. But it is better to contact a specialized service.

A generator malfunction leads to a decrease in the bot network voltage. In this case, all vehicle systems are powered by the battery. This is also the reason why a car stalls at idle when hot. On the instrument panel indicators of some models you can see a decrease in the mains voltage. Here it is worth diagnosing the generator for the presence of a breakdown.

What are the reasons leading to incorrect engine operation:

• The throttle valve is broken or dirty.
• Contamination in the crankcase ventilation.
• Malfunction of the throttle position sensor or mass fuel flow sensor, other indicators.
• Faulty or clogged parts of the idle air regulator.
• Carburetor channels are clogged with sediment.
• Fuel nozzle clogged.
• Debris or errors in the operation of injection nozzles.
• Faulty or dirty fuel pump filter mesh.
• Fuel filter is dirty.

Injection system

If you contact a specialized service center, specialists will definitely check this unit for serviceability. Therefore, when self-diagnosis, this is also taken into account. Often errors in the operation of the power unit are associated with hydraulics. Some of its parts may work correctly, but if the so-called coking of the injectors occurs, then problems cannot be avoided. As a rule, the cause of this phenomenon is low quality fuel. If it contains impurities that cannot dissolve, then all these particles begin to settle on the injection elements. In the first few minutes of engine operation, this problem becomes most obvious.

Although car owners often complain that the car stalls in neutral, engineers have not been able to improve the injectors. It is impossible to completely get rid of sedimentation. In this case, problems often arise not only with cold, but also with hot injectors.

OPTIONS FOR TROUBLESHOOTING

It is clear that if any emergency situations arise with the motor, it is advisable to contact a specialized service. However, this procedure is not always possible. Therefore, it is worth knowing how to independently diagnose the main systems and key parts.

THROTTLE VALVE AND ASSEMBLY

When the speed drops at idle and the car stalls, you need to pay close attention to the details of the throttle assembly. Long-term operation of the car on low-quality fuel and untimely maintenance of the air filter can lead to malfunctions of the throttle valve. It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment.

Throttle valve VAZ 2112

The problem can be solved by cleaning the system. The throttle is cleaned using carburetor cleaners. Using a compressor, you need to blow out the damper under the pressure of compressed air. It is not recommended to touch the screws located inside and on the side. If cleaning does not correct the situation, the device must be replaced. This operation is not particularly difficult.

CRANKCASE FAILURE

There is an oil trap in the crankcase ventilation system of the engine. Its contamination can also lead to interruptions in engine operation. Crankcase gases do not allow the engine to function normally, the speed fluctuates, the internal combustion engine stalls.

SENSORS

If a gasoline car stalls at idle, then one of the sensors is likely to break. In injection cars with an electronic engine control system, the engine usually starts normally, but then it stops working. It's worth checking here:

• Electronic car indicators;
• DRХХ – device that regulates idle speed;
• Air flow meter (air intake in the carburetor);
• Sensor indicating the position of the throttle curtain.

Electronic control unit in VAZ 2114

Interruptions in the operation of any sensors immediately affect the behavior of the electronics - errors appear in the car control unit. The “brains” of the machine receive unreliable information. It is not transmitted correctly to the engine. It starts working with parameters that do not correspond to reality. Self-testing of this device is not possible. You need to contact a professional for service.

Diagnostics of mass air flow sensor

The idle air control device is usually to blame for engine malfunction when the car idles poorly. But you pressed the gas pedal and the engine started. In the latest VAZ modifications, error information appears on the instrument panel.

When diagnosing, you must use a multimeter. If a part is faulty, it is recommended to replace it with a new one. All sensors are reasonably priced. It is better to start checking with parts that have a simpler design. Then gradually move on to complex devices. We must not forget that the problem may lie not only in the sensors themselves. It is also necessary to check the wiring to them and the presence of stable contact.

CARBURETOR

If the VAZ carburetor stalls at idle speed, then the jets may become clogged. Low-quality gasoline, deposits from the gas tank, contain small particles of debris. They can easily disrupt the operation of the fuel injection system. It is worth replacing the filter in front of the carburetor and cleaning the device itself. The dispensing part is cleaned using a cleaning solvent, which is sold in aerosol cans. Another reason is often a prolonged lack of carburetor adjustment.

In a mechanical fuel pump of carburetor cars, the filter mesh may be clogged with dirt. This reduces the performance of the device. Wear of the membrane and its destruction often leads to clogged carburetor channels.

INJECTOR

A situation that often arises is that various Lada models, as well as the VAZ 2110 injector stalls at idle. It is necessary to check the fuel pump strainer for clogging. This is a common problem with injection machines. It is better to immediately replace the part with a working one.

FILTERS PROBLEM

If the VAZ 2112 stalls at idle, then the fuel filter may be dirty. This also applies to other models of the concern. Generally, it is not practical to clean it. The part must be replaced. The same should be done with a dirty air filter. Low throughput leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture simply floods the spark plugs.

Self-checking will not always lead to a positive result. It is often more practical to identify the cause of unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at a car service center. It will cost more, but specialized diagnostics will prevent more serious damage to the car.

Self-diagnosis in the garage

If you have problems with the operation of the injection system, you should first diagnose the ECU. In this regard, the owners of the VAZ 2114 are more fortunate with the German VDO instrumentation - it has a self-diagnosis mode. On cars with a dashboard from Schetmash there is no such functionality.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

Working with the self-diagnosis mode on the VDO panel is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• With the ignition off, hold the odometer button for several seconds;
• turn the ignition to position “1”, release the button;
• if the arrows start running on the display, everything is fine, press once (information message about the firmware version) and release, with a second press an error code will appear;
• You can reset the error by holding the button until “0” appears.

Injection problems that cause the car to stall can be indicated by the numbers 1 (ECU error), 14,15 (coolant sensor errors), 22, 23 (DPS errors), 33, 34 (MAF errors), 42 (ignition malfunction) , 44, 45 (lean or rich mixture). The disadvantage of self-diagnosis on the VAZ 2114 is that if there are several errors, the system sums up the codes. Thus, the number “22” may mean a TPS error or low on-board voltage and a coolant sensor error (8 + 14).

For more accurate diagnostics of the injector, you need to immediately contact a service center or purchase a diagnostic scanner (it costs about 1000 rubles).

If you have another car, you can find the problematic sensor by replacing the sensitive elements one by one with known good ones.

VAZ 2115 stalls at idle - reason

• Wash the throttle assembly, especially pay attention to the channels xx, where the low speed regulator is located. Wash the IAC itself. Check the TPS sensor. Look for air leaks, check the mass air flow sensor. Check coolant temperature sensor.
• I once changed about five TPS, from the cheapest to the most expensive, and everyone behaved differently. They have a little travel to adjust, try making the revs a little higher.
• Well, suction cannot be ruled out throughout the entire intake tract. Do you have a recirculation valve? The tube comes to it from the receiver, try turning it off.
• With a non-working automatic transmission, the car will not start at all, much less go anywhere. Moreover, the ECU constantly monitors its operation and, if something happens, will turn on the meat grinder on the panel for you.
• According to check: when the ignition is on, there should be 0.7 volts between ground and the TPS slider, and 4 volts with the throttle fully open.
• I don’t know whether there are many or few defects, but I came across two in a row through which air was sucked in the place where the rivets were, both with a hologram and with an authentication code. I returned one, the second, because I took it apart, naturally did not return it, but covered the crack with nail polish.
• But you may have another reason; I haven’t tried it with the connector removed. Just in case, check it for leaks.
• No, there is no relay, there is a stepper motor, controlled by the ECU.
• The ECU issues control signals to the stepper motor, in which direction and how many steps to turn the motor rotor, and it, in turn, moves the rod, opening or closing the xx channel. Operating a ball motor is not like operating a regular motor. Or do you think that the ECU may not be giving a signal? Then you need to diagnose or borrow a BC, it will be able to show the operation of the IAC.

In this article we will talk about such an unpleasant problem as engine stopping and poor starting. Let's look at the main reasons why the engine stalls at idle and while driving. In addition, we will talk about why the engine does not start when hot, as well as options for solving each of the problems described above.

VAZ 2115 idle speed disappears, injector 8 valves

If there was a mesh in the tank, then the car would be dull even when accelerating, wouldn’t it?

I experienced what a clogged mesh is like last year. With it, the car either drives or doesn’t drive at all, that is, the interruptions generally start to be terrible, and especially when, of course, you add gas. But at XX it is just more stable.

DMRV is also unlikely. Simply, by removing the connector, you started the controller to bypass the air flow readings. And he takes the average value and keeps the XX speed deliberately high so as not to stall.

When you release the brake pedal at idle, there is a quick and slight jump in revolutions. From 850 to 1000 approximately.

But this is alarming! There shouldn't be such a leap! Even if there is one, the tachometer needle doesn’t even have time to move away. Well, personally, I have nothing. If you vote, then I personally am for sucking VUT!

Recently, there was also such a problem with stalling. Yesterday I got around to taking a look. And the first thing I noticed was the nipple on the VUT, where the hose from the receiver is connected. My hose was slightly shortened and touched the engine (remote control corrugations), which even rubbed off the braid. Well, apparently, while the engine was fidgeting back and forth during acceleration and deceleration, he was dragging the hose along with him, which already wore out the rubber band in the VUT, where this pipe is stuck. I had a spare one from a repair kit, so I replaced it. Today I rode - not a single sign of stalling or slowing down. But there may be something else with VUT.

I experienced what a clogged mesh is like last year. With it, the car either drives or doesn’t drive at all, that is, the interruptions generally start to be terrible, and especially when, of course, you add gas. But at XX it is just more stable.

Yes, they don’t believe it. Those. and if in general, the fuel pressure is most likely all normal. Actually, the car stalls.

DMRV is also unlikely. Simply, by removing the connector, you started the controller to bypass the air flow readings. And he takes the average value and keeps the XX speed deliberately high so as not to stall.

That's how it is, but still, if there is no gasoline, then air remains. I mean there's a lot of it. My throttle is relatively clean; the last time I was struggling with trouble, I took it off. I also seem to have changed the IAC.

And in general. To increase the speed after pulling off the mass air flow sensor, you need the IAC to move. And once they rise and the car drives normally and switches to XX, that means the IAC channel opens. By the way, in this mode it shows 120 steps.

When you release the brake pedal at idle, there is a quick and slight jump in revolutions. From 850 to 1000 approximately.

But this is alarming! There shouldn't be such a leap! Even if there is one, the tachometer needle doesn’t even have time to move away. Well, personally, I have nothing. If you vote, then I personally am for sucking VUT!

There may also be a leak. But somehow, for half a year now, it has been manifesting itself periodically, and not to say that often. Oh, another moment. When there is suction, the mixture seems to become poorer.

And I remember the last time when it started stalling, as soon as I got home I unscrewed the spark plugs - they were pretty black. Why did I then also think that as an option, gasoline injectors, pressure, etc. But now I'm not sure.

Source

Common reasons why the idle stalls:

1. The most common one is the idle speed regulator (sensor), which is directly related to engine idle speed. It’s quite easy to check whether there is a breakdown. If the car does not start when you turn the starter, operate the gas pedal, the engine should start. If the revs start to fluctuate immediately after you take your foot off the pedal, there is a 99% chance that the reason is in the idle speed control. The solution is to replace the idle air control; this will take VAZ owners a minimum of time.

2. The second probable reason why the engine stalls at idle is problems with the throttle valve. This problem can be cured by simply cleaning the throttle valve.

3. If after cleaning the problem persists, we assume that the reason why the engine stalls at idle may be the TPS (throttle position sensor). The problem is solved by replacing the TPS; the procedure is not complicated and can actually be done with your own hands.

There are often cases when the engine stalls while driving, as they say, out of the blue. The most probable and most common reasons why this may happen will be listed below.

Reasons for "blondes"

Sometimes poor performance of the injection system is simply due to inattention to the condition of the car and untimely maintenance.

1. Filters are clogged. Replacing air and fuel filters is a mandatory part of car maintenance for experienced car owners. The average service life of filters on a VAZ is 30,000 km. The actual value depends on the quality of the fuel and the filter itself, and operating conditions. If the car has traveled more than 100 thousand kilometers, it is advisable to change the filters more often, every 10-15 thousand (or once a year). During this mileage, dirt inevitably accumulates in the system.

If your car stalls in neutral or immediately after starting the engine, start by inspecting the filters.

2. Lack of gasoline. The critical fuel level cannot be allowed. Dirt may get into the fuel line and settle at the bottom of the tank. If the gauge has reached a critical level (or does not work), the car has just been driving, and after stopping it does not start or starts and stalls, you may need to add fuel.

Firstly, the accuracy of the FLS on the VAZ is not ideal. Secondly, if you stop at a slight level on a slope, fuel may not be sucked in by the pump at all or may be mixed with air.

3. Crooked hands. If the problem appears immediately after repairing the machine, carefully check the connections of all chips or the integrity of the wires. The reasons why the engine stalls may lie there.

The engine stops while running - reasons

1. Poor quality fuel is the first thing that comes to mind for most of us, and besides, this is where we need to start looking for the reason for the engine stopping while driving. You will be “lucky” if this happens immediately after refueling, in which case you can confidently say that the problem is in the fuel. Treated by draining the fuel and replacing the fuel filter.

2. Candles. As a rule, suspicion most often falls on them, after bad fuel, of course. Everything is simple here - unscrew the spark plugs and check their condition, replace the spark plugs if necessary.

3. Fuel filter. A seriously clogged filter can cause an interruption in fuel supply, causing you to rev the gas and the engine to stall while driving. To eliminate the problem, simply replace the fuel filter.

4. Air filter. Everything is the same as with the fuel, if it is clogged, then no air comes in, therefore the fuel-air mixture comes out over-enriched and the spark plugs simply flood. In addition, due to lack of air, the engine will choke, that is, the power will drop, and the combustion process of the mixture in the cylinders will not be able to take place, and eventually the engine will stall. To eliminate this problem, simply replace the air filter.

5. A faulty fuel pump is the second “suspect.” If your fuel pump is not working properly, then the car will behave like this, stalling while driving, or the engine will not start at all. The problem can be solved by checking the pump, repairing it, or completely replacing the fuel pump.

6. Battery. Oxidation of the battery terminals or poor contact can cause the engine to stall. Check the terminals, clean them if necessary or replace the battery.

7. If the engine stalls while driving and no longer starts, the generator may also be the cause. A failed generator does not charge; as a result, the car’s on-board network is powered exclusively by the battery, and as we know, it will not last long. As a result, you, unaware that the car is running on the battery, continue driving until it is completely discharged. It can be treated by charging the battery and repairing the generator.

Diagnostics of the mass air flow sensor

To check this sensor you will also need a multimeter, but it must be set to the “voltmeter” mode. We diagnose the air flow sensor as follows:

• De-energize the car by removing the battery terminals
• We measure the voltage between the contacts of the green and yellow wires
• Normal value - voltage ranges from 0.99 to 1.02 V

In some cases, simply cleaning the sensor or cleaning its oxidized contacts helps. But such actions do not always lead to the desired result. It is best to replace the mass air flow sensor with a new copy and forget about the problem, especially since this is an inexpensive mechanism.

Why does the engine stall when it is hot, and a well-warmed engine does not start?

1. The first possible reason is the carburetor. During movement, a large amount of air passes through it, due to which the carburetor is seriously cooled, at the same time the fuel that passes through it is also cooled. As a result, the carburetor temperature is several times lower than the engine temperature. Because of this feature, problems arise; after a long journey, you turn off the engine and make a short stop, at which time the carburetor begins to get very hot from the hot engine body. The remaining gasoline in the float chamber begins to evaporate from the high temperature, filling the voids - the air filter, the intake manifold and the carburetor itself. Air pockets form, and not a drop of fuel remains in the float chamber.

The solution to the problem is quite simple - press the gas pedal halfway several times and try to start the engine. This will make the mixture leaner and release excess evaporation. It should be noted that problems with hot starting can also be due to a similar problem, only due to the fault of the fuel pump or fuel line. This usually happens in hot weather when air pockets form from evaporation in the fuel system or pump, preventing fuel from entering the carburetor.

2. The second possible reason for the strange behavior of a warm engine is problems with the starter. Make sure that when you try to start the engine, the starter turns and does not just click or not respond at all. If this is the case and one of the above options is confirmed. the starter needs to be checked. If you are on the road, then the check can be reduced to a basic check of the starter power wire or other visual operations. If you get home, perform a detailed check of the starter according to these instructions. In case of malfunction, repair or replace it.

3. Alternatively, the reason when the engine does not start when hot may be a dead battery due to the reason described above, when the generator did not charge and the battery was completely dead.

Well, it seems like you didn’t miss anything!? That's all for today, we hope the article will help, tell you the cause of the breakdown and help you solve your problem. If you know other reasons, as well as ways to solve them, you can supplement the article using the comment form. Thank you for your attention.

Other reasons

First of all, you need to understand that a lot depends on how cold it is outside. If there is severe frost, it is not surprising that an unheated engine will malfunction. Therefore, you have to constantly keep your foot on the gas pedal.

Sometimes the problems are related to the spark plugs. Therefore, it is recommended to check them. You need to understand that these elements do not have a long service life. Therefore, if the car has quite an impressive mileage, then perhaps it is the spark plugs that have become unusable. Soot may settle on them. This often leads to irreversible damage to the elements.

If problems arise specifically with the spark plugs, then you need to find the damaged one and replace it. To do this, it is not necessary to seek help from a specialized center. All necessary work can be done independently.

Problems with engine activation can also arise due to problems in the ECU. It is also worth checking the quality of all connections. There is a risk that the wiring of the VAZ 2114 injector has been damaged. Therefore, it is worth making sure that it is in good working order.

It is also recommended to pay attention to the vehicle's exhaust gas recirculation valve. In this case, a cold engine will stall. To correct the situation, it is enough to replace the faulty unit.

The cause of a stalled engine is the spark plugs

In 50% of cases, the problem is due to the fact that the spark plugs simply do not produce a spark. This failure occurs as a result of 3 reasons:

• contacts become clogged;
• plaque forms along the entire contour of the candle;
• malfunction when supplying voltage to the spark plug.

However, the most popular is still black carbon deposits on the spark plugs, which prevents the spark from appearing or causes it to work periodically.

Tip: if the spark plug set malfunctions, you will hear a “triple” sound that is uncharacteristic of the engine. In this case, the car will jerk strongly while moving. As a result, the engine will either stall on its own, or you will need to turn it off and turn the ignition on again.

If you see dirt on the surface of the contacts, this indicates the need to replace a low-quality type of fuel or check the serviceability of the oil supply systems. It is the oil supply adjustment sensors that can splash the spark plugs with it if there is a problem. Also, oil that appears on a set of spark plugs may indicate serious damage to components in the engine cylinders. Be sure to check the engine at a car service center. Otherwise, further operation may lead to expensive replacement of jet rods and even the entire set of pistons.

If you systematically use low-quality gasoline samples, you may find a red-brown coating on the contour of the spark plug. In this case, cleaning will not help - it is better to immediately replace the entire set after a new refill. If you find that the car periodically turns off at full speed, but starts easily even with clean spark plugs, then the problem lies in the electrical wiring.

Diagnostic features

It is worth considering that there are no exact sequential actions by performing which it will be possible to accurately determine the cause of the malfunction. If the power unit stalls only occasionally, then the situation may not be that serious. There is a chance that this is how the vehicle simply reacts to severe frosts. However, if you have recurring problems, you should contact a specialist.

It is best if the mechanic connects a specialized diagnostic device to the car at a car service center. He will determine exactly where the breakdown occurred and which element should be replaced. Of course, if the car owner has enough knowledge, he can identify the problem on his own. But you need to understand that if such a diagnosis was performed incorrectly, this can lead to more serious consequences. In this case, the final repair of the car will be much more expensive. Therefore, you should think several times before saving.

The cause of a stalled engine is a power supply failure

In this type of problem, 3 reasons may be involved:

• Poor contact with the terminals of the new battery;
• Detection of poor contact or breakdown along the entire length of high-voltage wires;
• The appearance of malfunctions in the generator or ignition coil system of the car.

If the problem lies in damp high-voltage wires, then it is best to replace them completely along with the battery contacts. If the terminals make poor contact, you need to carefully clean them with sandpaper and try to reconnect them. If the generator is found to be inoperable, the problem usually boils down to problems in the following parts:

1. Broken timing belt;
2. There is a malfunction inside the housing of the unit itself.

A problem with the generator is easily detected when the corresponding indicator on the dashboard turns on. In addition, if there is insufficient energy supply, the backlight of the on-board panel will gradually fade, and a set of other diagnostic sensors will show incorrect values.

Advice: if when you press the gas the car jerks, then stalls and cannot start, then the problem is related to the failure of the ignition coils. It is best to replace these parts in a car service using special equipment.

From the list of reasons that are directly related to the car engine, you need to move on to problems that arise in the fuel and air supply systems, as well as malfunctions of components responsible for exhaust gas removal.

Ignition coil

We clarify how to adjust the idle speed on a VAZ 2114

Every car enthusiast with extensive driving experience remembers when Russian roads were filled with Zhiguli and Muscovites. These cars were distinguished by the fact that almost every car enthusiast could repair them on his own.

The VAZ 2114 is also a fairly simple car when it comes to repairs. Any car enthusiast who has at least a little knowledge of cars can cope with troubleshooting this machine.

Almost all the key elements of this car can be adjusted mechanically, but some parts of the car cannot be repaired using the old-fashioned method.

Fuel supply faults

It is quite easy to find out that the car stalls while driving due to the engine being “choked” with the fuel mixture - during a long drive you will find that the signal of the sensor responsible for this function is constantly on.

Here the problem lies in low-quality fuel, which does not quickly “ignite” from the spark of the candles. It can also be caused by gasoline not meeting the requirements for the octane number specified in the vehicle specifications. If there are problems with fuel, the gas pedal will be pressed all the way, and the car will not begin to gain speed. In addition, the car will periodically stall when the clutch is engaged.

Another symptom indicating problems with fuel is the appearance of problems with the car after refueling. The problem is characterized by a rapid drop in engine power at full speed, as well as when constantly changing gears. The way out of the situation is to completely drain the bad fuel mixture, wash the engine and all the fuel system pipes.

Also, the car will constantly stall if there is an interruption in the supply of the fuel mixture. This may be due to contamination in the following system components:

• Dirt in the fuel filter;
• Problems with injector nozzles;
• Dirty throttle valves;
• Fuel pump power failure.

The main symptom of a malfunction of these parts is that there will be a gradual drop in the power of the car’s engine, after which the car will stall even after sharply pressing the gas pedal. If you do not release the clutch carefully when changing gears, this will also cause the engine to stall.

The contamination of the fuel filter and fuel pump can be judged by the unstable operation of the machine even during idling and during rapid braking (when the supply of the fuel mixture decreases). And if the performance of fuel filters can be easily established during an external inspection and eliminated by replacing them, then to detect other causes, you need a full-fledged computer diagnostics, which can only be carried out in a car service center.

Another reason for a stalled car associated with the operation of the fuel pump is boiling gasoline in the fuel pump. This happens mainly in hot weather when the car is moving slowly or standing on the highway in traffic jams. The car will start to stall while driving, but when you turn on the idle speed and press the clutch, it will start again.

If boiling occurs, it is better to stand in a traffic jam with the engine turned off and gradually cool the car. After 5-10 minutes, the car's operation will be stable again.

Advice: if you recently did a wheel alignment with your own hands on a VAZ-2107, then to cool the car, proceed as follows - throw a piece of cloth made of dense material over the fuel pump body, which you first moisten with cold water.

Hearing and eye diagnostics

External signs can sometimes tell more about injection problems than computer diagnostics.

Pay attention to exactly when the VAZ 2114 car stalls:

• at idle;
• the car does not start well, stalls immediately after starting, or only runs on the gas;
• the car stalls when cold, but runs fine when hot;
• the car starts and runs normally in neutral, after warming up to a certain temperature it starts to stall;
• the car operates normally at idle and while driving, but the engine stops when braking, switching off the gear, or releasing the gas;
• The car starts, but picks up speed poorly and stalls when the gas is sharply pressed.

Based on these signs, you can, if not determine the problem for sure, then reduce the “circle of suspects.”

Malfunctions in the air mixture supply system

Here the problem lies either in a clogged air filter or in the failure of the regulator responsible for idling the car. In this case, your car will stall all the time when you gain speed or when you release the gas when you release the accelerator.

To solve the problem, remove and inspect the air filter. If there is serious contamination or chips, replace it. To diagnose and replace the idle speed regulator, you will need the help of qualified car service employees.

Device

In 2000, the VAZ 2115 evolved. The carburetor was replaced by an injector. In subsequent years, with a difference of 7 years, the “fifteenth” models were equipped with 2 types of engines:

• 8 valves (1499 cm³, 71.6 hp);
• 16 valves (1596 cm³, 80.9 hp).

A stepper idle speed controller was installed on both motors. This is a mini-electric motor that opens/closes the air passage of the intake manifold, thus regulating the enrichment or leanness of the fuel mixture (similar to a bolt on a carburetor).

Inside the IAC there is a ring magnet, 2 windings and a lead screw (needle). Under voltage, an electromagnetic field appears in the windings, as a result of which the rotor begins to rotate in one direction or the other, pushing the needle forward/retracted along the worm gear. At the end of the needle there is a valve that opens/closes the air duct on the intake manifold.

What is a step? This is the distance between the conical shut-off valve (IAC tip) and the intake manifold, which is measured by the number of complete revolutions of the rotor.

Car exhaust system problem

The engine may also stall if the tubes responsible for removing gases are malfunctioning. At full speed, the car will quickly begin to “choke”, and pressing the gas pedal completely stops the engine. Malfunctions in the operation of the exhaust pipe system in 90% of cases are caused by contamination and clogging of the muffler. However, the catalyst may also fail.

In the first case, carefully clean the muffler and remove foreign objects from there. If there are problems with the catalyst, conduct a complete diagnosis of the exhaust system and replace this element.

How to determine why the VAZ 2114 engine is tripping

Among motorists you can often hear the common expression “the engine is trotting.” But perhaps not everyone knows what it means, although they understand the meaning of this meaning. Let's try to figure out where the term came from.

TROIT means it runs on 3 cylinders

WHAT DOES “MOTOR TROIT” MEAN?

At the dawn of the automotive industry, the most popular were 4-cylinder internal combustion engines (ICE), and even now you can most often see such engines in passenger cars. When one of the cylinders “turned off,” the engine continued to operate intermittently, that is, on three cylinders. And since there were three cylinders left in operation, it turned out that the engine was “troubling.”

SIGNS AND REASONS OF “ADJUSTMENT”

Engine trouble: what is it, and what are the signs to identify this malfunction? You can understand that the internal combustion engine is malfunctioning by the following signs:

• At idle speed, the engine operates unevenly, jerking periodically;
• The car does not develop the required power when driving;
• The car drives jerkily, when you press the gas pedal, there are gaps in operation;
• The exhaust from the muffler is uneven, with interruptions, pops and shots are possible;
• Fuel consumption increases.

Increased fuel consumption hurts your pocket Reasons:
There are many reasons why the engine misfires. There are such nuances that even experienced technicians do not immediately determine the nature of the malfunction. But the most common cylinder failures are the following (starting with the elementary ones):

• The candle does not work;
• The high-voltage wire is broken;
• The ignition coil has failed;
• The control unit is faulty;
• There is an air leak in the intake manifold;
• Exhaust valve burnt out;
• The cylinder head gasket is broken;
• The compression rings on the piston are broken,
• The piston itself has burned out, or the bridge on the piston between the compression rings has burst.

This article is about the VAZ 2114 car, so carburetor malfunctions are not considered, since this device was not installed on the 2114 model. This brand of car has a fuel system with distributed injection (injector), and the answer to the question of why the engine stalls may be hidden in this system.

VAZ 2114 ENGINE CHARACTERISTICS

The VAZ 2114 car is mainly equipped with an 8-valve 4-cylinder engine, the fuel system and ignition are controlled by an electronic unit (ECU). The electronics have many different sensors that inform the unit about the condition of the engine. The control unit, in turn, reads the necessary information and gives commands to those devices that directly affect the operation:

1. Distributes the spark among the cylinders in a certain order;
2. Determines the required amount of supplied fuel (leans or enriches the fuel mixture depending on the number of revolutions).

The electronic control system of the VAZ 2114 contains the following sensors:

• Crankshaft position sensor (CPS);
• Camshaft position sensor or phase sensor (DPRV);
• Idle air regulator (or sensor) (IAC);
• Throttle position sensor (TPS);
• Knock sensor (DS);
• Air flow sensor or flow meter (AFM);
• Lambda probe or oxygen sensor.

Failure of any of these sensors leads to unstable engine operation, and if the DPKV fails, the car most likely will not start at all. Fuel is supplied to each cylinder using an electronically controlled injector. A faulty injector can also cause poor engine performance.

REASONS FOR UNSTABLE OPERATION OF MOTOR 2114

Let's consider several standard situations that can happen with an 8-valve 4-cylinder engine.

UNSTABLE OPERATION ON A COLD ICE

It often happens that a VAZ 2114 stalls when cold, but as it warms up the engine levels out and starts working stably. There could be several reasons:

1. The ECU sets the fuel mixture too rich to cold;
2. The spark plug does not work, but when heated, the spark plug still “breaks through”;
3. The high-voltage wires are damp or moisture has entered the ignition coil;
4. Parts of the piston group are worn out.

UNSTABLE OPERATION OF A HEATED ENGINE

It also happens the other way around - a cold internal combustion engine operates more or less steadily, but as it warms up it begins to throttle. Usually the engine starts when hot because:

• The cylinder head gasket has burned out;
• The ignition coil breaks;
• The engine control unit is faulty.

Engine control unit for VAZ 2114

THE MOTOR STARTS AT IDLE SPEED

Most often, a situation arises when the engine stalls at idle speed. Moreover, it makes no difference whether this happens when it’s cold or when it’s hot. There can be many reasons for this, ranging from a simple spark plug failure to malfunctions in the piston group of the internal combustion engine. While it is very easy to replace a spark plug, wear on the cylinders in the block can lead to a major overhaul.

Most often, the engine does not operate stably at idle in the following cases:

• The valves are not adjusted (clamped);
• The timing belt is installed incorrectly (the marks do not match);
• The IAC is faulty;
• The cylinder head valves are bent or burnt out (the valves can bend during a water hammer when a large amount of water gets into the air filter housing);
• The piston burned out;
• There is a malfunction in the electronic engine control system. The sensors, the ECU itself, electrical wiring and I/O wires may be to blame here.

There are many options for why the car idles at idle, but there are still the most basic ways to determine faults.

WHAT TO DO IF THE MOTOR IS TROUBLED

The car model 2114 from the factory was mainly equipped with an engine with 8 valves in the cylinder head; a 16-valve internal combustion engine (1.6 l) was installed in 2010. VAZ 2115 (also 2113) has an identical engine, so we will consider the method of finding the cause of the malfunction for all these models.

We will learn in detail about what to do when a VAZ engine stalls when cold or hot, at idle speed or when the load increases. If the engine of a VAZ 2115 (2114, 2113) fails , first of all we check the operation of the spark plugs. Alternately pulling off the I/O wires from the cylinders, we pay attention to how the operation of the internal combustion engine changes. If the nature of the operation does not change when the wire is removed, then it is this cylinder that is faulty.

What to do if cars with automatic transmission stall?

If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, then the problem should be found in the electrical supply. If you abruptly switch from one gear to another, or while switching gears while braking, the settings may be distorted, and the on-board computer will receive a signal to turn off the engine.

Also, models with automatic transmission may stall due to malfunctions of the hydrodynamic transformers of the gearbox. This problem mainly manifests itself during acceleration and requires urgent intervention from car service specialists.

Sources

• vaz-russia.com/vse-ob/pochemu-glohnet-mashina-na-hodu.html
• o-ladagranta.ru/vaz-2115-glohnet-na-holostyh-oborotah-prichina/
• nadomkrat.ru/innteresnoe/pochemu-mashina-vaz-glohnet-na-holostyh-oborotah

What are the causes of floating idle: faulty VAZ injector

The reasons for the floating idle, the VAZ injector and its malfunction, as one of the possible reasons - such questions concern many car enthusiasts. When a breakdown occurs in a beloved car, the owner experiences the same worry as if he himself was sick. And therefore, while traveling, from time to time he listens to see if the car is working normally, if there are any suspicious extra noises.

What are the reasons for the floating idle speed of vases?

Why does the speed of the VAZ-2114 jump when the engine is cold? Sometimes the engine begins to behave atypically if the idle speed fluctuates. Owners of a VAZ car know that such a situation may arise, since this is typical for domestic cars.

Unstable idle: what is the reason? There are the most common reasons for this phenomenon, and knowing them, you can easily navigate and decide what to do.

From time to time the motor, which is in warm-up mode, begins to rotate at an unstable frequency, trots, and vibrates. If there are strange popping noises in the muffler, this indicates that the fuel mixture has become over-rich in the muffler, and if such problems appear in the carburetor, then the mixture is over-lean.

The instability of the speed mainly depends on the fuel mixture that enters the cylinders at idle speed in the VAZ. If the idle speed with a cold engine malfunctions, it is possible that a foreign body has entered, a small speck in the channel is enough.

The problem may arise from the idle speed sensor. To study this unit, you need to try to remove the VAZ from speed at idle. If it does not stall, the heater and headlights turn on. If the speed does not drop, then everything is fine in this part. But if there is a problem in this part, it means that the adjustment was made incorrectly, and therefore the fuel mixture is lean at idle.

How to adjust idle speed

The speed can be adjusted using screws. They are available on carburetors specifically designed for VAZ. A floating idle may occur if there is a malfunction in the mass air flow sensor.

• get damaged;
• oxidize;
• wear out.

In all cases, it needs to be replaced and the contacts cleaned, even if there is the slightest oxidation.

If the sensor responsible for the crankshaft position is faulty, the first thing to do is check the wires that go to it.

If no damage is noticed here, a multimeter should be connected to the sensor, and the crankshaft should be set so that it is in a position where the highest voltage is 200 mV. If you pass a screwdriver over the core and voltage surges are shown on the device screen, the sensor is in good condition and works normally.

Do-it-yourself troubleshooting

Many faults from the above list can be eliminated yourself in a few minutes. It will take much more time to identify.

Diagnostics of mass air flow sensor and IAC

The mass air flow sensor and idle air control act as regulators of air supply to the combustion chamber.

Failure of these sensors will lead to an increase in fuel consumption, and a broken rod will affect the speedometer needle; it will remain motionless until the problem is fixed.

Diagnosis of DPCV

Crankshaft rotation sensor location

Failure of the crankshaft position sensor will negatively affect the operation of the engine as a whole. A failure in synchronization between the engine and the injection system will result in the car not starting. You can accurately determine the condition of the sensor only by using a multimeter.

To do this you need to do the following:

• Set the position on the sensor with a maximum value of 200mV;
• Connect the multimeter and close the core with a screwdriver;

Checking DPKV with a multimeter

Video about checking the crankshaft rotation sensor

Lambda probe diagnostics

Location of the oxygen sensor (lambda probe)

The sensor reads the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases and sends a signal to the computer to increase or decrease the air supply to the combustion chamber. Diagnostics is performed with a multimeter on a warm engine. The procedure is as follows:

• One core of the device clings to the ground, the second to the output from the sensor;
• When re-gassing the engine, the multimeter readings should be in the range from 0.2 to 0.9 V;

When checking the lambda probe, the voltage readings should be within 0.2 - 0.9V

Video about checking the lambda probe

Speed ​​sensor diagnostics

The vehicle speed sensor is located in the gearbox. Its diagnosis is carried out by visual inspection of wires and contacts . If oxide is detected, it must be thoroughly cleaned.

Replacing the air filter and glow plugs

Air filter for VAZ-2114

The presence of a large amount of dust on the body and inside the air filter requires its immediate replacement.

Since its throughput is reduced, the engine does not have enough air in the combustion chambers . Due to this, the fuel does not burn completely, and the remaining fuel is thrown out and burns out in the exhaust pipe, which can burn out as a result.

Heavy carbon deposits on the spark plugs or any mechanical damage to the housing require their replacement.

Oil deposits on spark plugs

Important! If the machine was operated with this malfunction, it is recommended to replace the spark plugs, since, due to high fuel consumption, they will be flooded.

Checking wires

The easiest way to diagnose high-voltage wires is in the dark; to do this, just open the hood. If the wire is “broken,” a spark will be visible striking to the side .

Visual inspection of high-voltage wires

Another reason lurking in this place is poor contact, the appearance of oxide. To do this, you need to visually evaluate the wire tips (white, blue or green coating); you need to thoroughly clean them, wash them with Wedge (WD-40), dry them and put them in place.

Healthy! Don't forget about the term "metal fatigue". This refers to the deterioration of current conductivity due to the fact that the contacts are in constant voltage mode. Therefore, high-voltage wires should be periodically replaced with new ones (their specific service life depends on the manufacturer and is indicated on the packaging).

Checking the intake manifold

Most often, air leaks occur through the connection of the intake manifold to the cylinder block . This happens due to wear of the gasket. This is not difficult to identify. To do this, you will need regular carburetor cleaner. With the engine running, you need to spray the can on all connections and places that cause you suspicion (microcracks in the commutator body itself are also possible).

Checking the intake manifold

If the engine runs without changes, then the cause of the malfunction is not here. If the engine speed increases and the engine jerks, the manifold or intake manifold gasket should be replaced.

Healthy! There is no need to solder and glue the intake manifold. The patch will not stay in place for long and after a while the problem will arise again.

Cleaning the throttle valve

The throttle valve needs regular cleaning of carbon deposits.

Due to heavy carbon deposits, the throttle valve may be in an incorrect position. To fix this, you will need to remove the throttle assembly and clean it with a carburetor cleaner or carburetor cleaner, and then reinstall it.

Healthy! The assembly should be washed thoroughly; you can soak it in gasoline for a while.

Floating speed is a standard disease of injection engines. The fact is that the ECU, when receiving an incorrect signal from a non-working sensor, mistakenly opens the air supply solenoid valve . The TPS gives a signal that this cannot happen, and the engine has already left the warm-up mode. It is at this moment that the idle speed of the VAZ-2114 begins to float. Therefore, if such a problem appears on your car, do not be upset. If the cause is detected and eliminated in a timely manner, there is nothing to worry about.