Drive compressor or air blower. DIY installation

As is known, the power of any naturally aspirated engine strongly depends on the displacement, and is also quite limited by the physical displacement of the internal combustion engine. To put it simply, the outside air is due to the vacuum that occurs as a result of the movement of the pistons in the cylinders.

At the same time, the amount of fuel that can then be effectively burned directly depends on the amount of incoming air. In other words, to make a naturally aspirated engine more powerful, it is necessary to increase the cylinder displacement, increase the number of cylinders, or combine both.

Another effective way is to supply air to the engine under pressure. In this case, the volume of the cylinder and the number of “pots” do not need to be changed, while the air is forced in, which automatically allows more fuel to be supplied and then to burn such a charge of the fuel-air mixture with maximum efficiency.

Among the air blowers, turbocharging and a mechanical compressor should be highlighted. Each of the solutions has both its pros and cons, while installing a mechanical air blower with your own hands in practice may well turn out to be somewhat easier than correctly performing the work of installing a turbocharger. Next we will talk about whether it is possible to install a compressor on the engine with your own hands and what needs to be taken into account as part of such an installation.

TURBO - NOT TURBO

In short, there are now many design varieties of compressors. Some work using the energy of exhaust gases (TURBO), others - using a drive (NOT TURBO). It is the latter that we will talk about today. By the way , which is better, a turbine or a compressor, you can read at the link.

If you examine the design of such units, you can identify a certain similarity in structure. Namely, such compressors operate from a drive that does not require intervention in the standard engine systems, namely the lubrication and exhaust gas system, which is very important! This design is really very simple - a direct connection is established with the “crankshaft”, which allows the engine and supercharger to interact perfectly during acceleration. That is, the higher the speed, the faster the “crankshaft” rotates, and accordingly the supercharger spins! Thanks to this interaction, there is practically no such thing as “turbo lag”. Also, an additional advantage is the lack of operation at high temperatures, like with TURBO options, which means that the service life is greatly increased - after all, there is no need for the “turbine” to cool down, that is, “turbo timers” or “boost controllers” are not necessary, we just turn off the car and work stops. The site autoflit.ru recommends doing exactly the same. If you're interested, come in.

Mechanical engine charging: what you need to know

Let's start with the fact that installation of any type of supercharger (mechanical or turbocharging) is possible on both injection and carburetor engines. In both cases, a number of modifications to the power unit are expected, however, installing a turbine on the engine is somewhat more difficult and expensive compared to a compressor.

It becomes clear that a mechanical supercharger is a more affordable way to increase engine power; such a solution is easier to install on the engine, and the work can even be done independently. At the same time, the general principle of operation of the supercharger is quite simple.

The device can actually be compared to an attachment (generator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor), that is, the unit is driven by the engine. As a result of the operation of a mechanical compressor, the air is compressed and enters the cylinders under pressure.

This allows the cylinders to be better purged (ventilated) from exhaust gas residues, cylinder filling is significantly improved, the amount of air in the combustion chamber increases, which makes it possible to burn more fuel and increase engine power.

Also, the compressor has a direct dependence on engine speed. The more the engine is revved, the more air is supplied to the combustion chambers and, accordingly, the power increases. At the same time, there is no pronounced effect of turbojam (turbolag), which is found on turbocharged engines. Turbo lag manifests itself in the form of a failure at low speeds, when the exhaust energy is not yet enough to spin the turbine and create the necessary pressure to effectively supply air to the cylinders.

In other words, all work is carried out comprehensively, which further allows the forced power unit to operate successfully and stably without significantly reducing its service life. Now let's look at some of the features of this installation.

Rotary types

Compressors that are used quite widely. The main advantage is the average price, long service life, high frequency of supplied air, smooth and stable operation, quick response to the crankshaft speed.

The air in this system is not compressed, it seems to go inside, and then it is forced into the engine by blades, which are made in the form of a rotor. That’s why they got the name – compressor with external compression. The downside is that as the inlet pressure increases, the efficiency decreases.

The structure most often consists of two rotors, on the inlet and outlet windows, see photo. They are located transversely.

The disadvantages of this design are:

1) Efficiency depends on the clearances between the shafts and other parts.

2) The largest heating of all other types.

3) Strong noise and vibration of the shafts.

4) Not very strong pressure, about 0.7 bar maximum.

To summarize, it becomes clear that this type is far from ideal. Some can - why are the blades screw-shaped? There are two reasons here, the first is an increase in air pressure and the second is a decrease in noise (although it helps little).

Compressors using all sorts of unnecessary things as receivers

If, when choosing compressors and motors, craftsmen settled on components from refrigerators and cars, then they do not use anything as receivers - even bottles of champagne and Coca-Cola (at pressures up to 2 atm). Let's list a few worthwhile ideas.

If you have a receiver from KrAZ at hand, you can get a unit with minimal labor costs: all the pipes are already screwed into it.

Compressor unit with receiver from KrAZ

If you are the owner of unnecessary diving equipment, you can use it at work.

Receiver made from scuba cylinders (installation stage - without capacitor bank)

Almost every summer resident with a stove on gas cylinders will have these unnecessary containers.

Compressors with gas cylinder receivers

If the hydraulic accumulator in the water supply system has a leaky bulb, there is no need to throw it away. Use it as a receiver by removing the rubber membrane.

Receiver from hydraulic accumulator

An expansion tank from a VAZ is an inexpensive purchase, even if it is new.

Receiver - expansion tank from a VAZ car

The next idea is for air conditioner installers who have leftover freon cylinders and split system parts.

Freon cylinder as a receiver

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.

Screw type

This is a more advanced and reliable supercharger design. The principle of operation here is also simple - compression occurs by changing the volume of the cavities between the body and the rotation screws (a kind of rotors). The air here moves diagonally. The big advantages of this option are high efficiency up to 85%, as well as high air pressure (from 1 bar to higher), this is achieved by high speeds, sometimes up to 12,000 rpm. It is because of this that the body can be made more miniature. It must be said that this option is often used on racing cars due to its reliability and small body.

The only downsides are the complex structure and repairs, which increases the price of the final product. If such a drive compressor fails, it needs to be repaired at specialized stations, preferably from the manufacturer.

As you can see in the design there are two rotors, with serrated spiral teeth. Their profiles fully correspond to each other when in contact, which makes the design very reliable.

Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 — tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 — hoses; 6 — diesel filter; 7 — gasoline filter; 8 — air inlet; 9 — pressure switch; 10 — crosspiece; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 — receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 — pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 — moisture-oil trap; 16 — pneumatic socket

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have written off fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition you will need:

pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
diesel filter;
filter for a gasoline engine;
pressure switch;
electric toggle switch;
pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
reinforced hose;
water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
safety valve (to relieve excess pressure);
self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).

In addition, you will need tools: a hacksaw, a wrench, a syringe, as well as FUM-leta, anti-rust, synthetic motor oil, paint or enamel for metal.

Assembly steps

Before starting assembly, you need to prepare the motor-compressor and fire extinguisher cylinder.

Preparing the motor-compressor

Three tubes come out of the motor-compressor, two of which are open (air inlet and outlet), and the third, with a sealed end, is for changing the oil. To find the air inlet and outlet, you need to briefly apply current to the compressor and put the appropriate marks on the tubes.

Next, you need to carefully file or cut off the sealed end, making sure that no copper filings get inside the tube. Then drain the oil inside and use a syringe to fill in motor, synthetic or semi-synthetic. You can seal the tube by selecting a screw of a suitable diameter, which must be wrapped with FUM tape and screwed into the hole. Sealant can be applied over the joint. If necessary, paint the surface with enamel.

Preparing the receiver

You need to remove the shut-off valve (SPV) from the empty fire extinguisher cylinder. Clean the outside of the container from rust and dirt, and pour “anti-rust” inside and hold it for as long as indicated on the product label. Let it dry and screw on the lid with the hole from the ZPK. We screw the adapter into the hole (if necessary) and attach the cross.

We attach a pressure switch to the upper branch pipe, on one side we screw in a tee and connect a pressure gauge, on the other we mount a safety valve or a valve for bleeding air manually (optional). Where required, we use adapters. If necessary, we paint the balloon.

Circuit assembly

On an assembled frame (for example, a strong board on wheels or a structure made of strong corners or pipes) we attach the cylinder, and on it or next to it - a motor-compressor, laying a rubber gasket. We connect first a gasoline and then a diesel filter to the incoming air pipe of the compressor. This must be done if the compressor is designed to operate an airbrush, in order to eliminate the slightest air contamination. And since the diesel filter is thinner, it is installed after the gasoline one. If copper tubes have lost their shape during dismantling, they need to be flared.

The power supply is connected through a toggle switch, a pressure switch and a start relay. We protect all connections with electrical tape or heat shrink. It is important to install the starting relay in the correct position - according to the arrow on its cover, otherwise the device will not work correctly.

1 - toggle switch; 2 - pressure switch; 3 — compressor start relay; 4 — relay position arrow; 5 — connection of the relay to the compressor windings; 6 - compressor

We connect the output air tube from the compressor through an adapter to the inlet of the receiver. After the pressure gauge, we install a gearbox with a remote moisture-oil trap, and behind it a hose with a self-locking air outlet.

The end result, with due diligence, works well and looks aesthetically pleasing.

Centrifugal type

The most common ones on internal combustion engines operate using so-called blades or “blades”. If we compare them with the previous two, then this type is the most compact of all, and it is also simple in manufacturing technology, which reduces its final cost. It can often be confused with the TURBO version (which is powered by exhaust gases), due to its similar design, but this is completely wrong, these are two completely different devices.

The principle of the structure consists of an inlet part, a working part (blade-blade) and a diffuser, which can be either bladed or bladeless. An air intake made in the shape of a “snail” is also required for installation.

The air, having passed through a special filter (by the way, is also required, otherwise all the dust will be inside the engine), enters a special inlet which gradually narrows (for minimal air losses during supply), then goes to the wheel. The impeller is mounted on a special mount, but there have been cases when it was placed on the shaft itself. Next, through a mechanical transmission (drive), it is connected to the crankshaft.

Such options are the most common on our domestic cars (in particular VAZ). They are chosen for their durability, low price, versatility and compactness.

The disadvantages of such compressors are low efficiency at low speeds, but at high speeds the engine power can increase up to 30% of the nominal value. At rpm from 4000, the pressure can reach 0.5 - 0.6 bar.

Features of supercharger and turbocharging

Before installing a compressor on the naturally aspirated engine of your car, you should know that its significant disadvantages include its excessive weight and the inability to provide the necessary power in off-road conditions.

The great advantage of a turbocharged engine is its use of exhaust gases, which in turn, through the turbine, forcefully create air pressure through the cylinders and a mixture of fuel and air is formed in them. In this case, the increase in power gain can reach 10–12%

, in comparison with the atmospheric analogue.

To increase engine power, a mechanical supercharger is installed, which is a conventional compressor. The supercharger drive is connected to the crankshaft, which allows a certain volume of air to be pumped into the cylinders.

This process is carried out in proportion to the number of engine revolutions. Unlike a turbocharger, a supercharger does not increase the temperature due to the temperature of the exhaust gases of the manifold, which sets it apart from its main competitor. However, the disadvantage is a decrease in the efficiency of the motor, since its drive takes a certain percentage of the power.

Installing a compressor on a VAZ

Needless to say, our domestic market mainly consists of AvtoVAZ products, this is where young “tuners” start, so the most common question is - can it be installed on a VAZ?

Of course it is possible, and the last one, the centrifugal type, often already comes as a complete set, for installation specifically on our cars, that is, the so-called “KIT kit”.

Installing the system is quite simple. However, first you need to install an enlarged gasket between the block and the cylinder head. This is what the manufacturer advises. Below is an exaggerated connection diagram:

1) Set up the air intake filter.

2) Attach the body to the bracket

3) Connect the crankshaft drive.

4) Fasten the drive belt

5) We use it.

Now a short video for understanding.

What can be achieved - as I wrote above, at high speeds the pressure can reach 0.5 - 0.6 bar. If you correctly configure the fuel injection, flash the ECU, or reconfigure the carburetor, you can achieve 30% at the top! This is very significant.

I will end here, I think my article was useful to you.

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Why install a turbine

When they say “atmospheric engine,” they mean a conventional internal combustion engine into which air enters naturally without additional devices. Air is mixed with gasoline or other fuel, enters the cylinder, ignites from a spark, resulting in work being done. Due to this work, the car runs.

An engine to which a turbine is connected is called turbocharged. Cars with turbocharged engines first appeared in the middle of the last century.

The turbine operates due to the exhaust gases that enter it. As it rotates, it creates air pressure supplied to the cylinders, that is, the air no longer flows by gravity. The fuel mixture becomes more saturated with air and burns more intensely. Turbocharging can increase engine power by 10%, and in some cases more.

The disadvantages of a turbocharged engine include greater demands on the quality of oil and fuel. Engine oil and oil filters need to be changed twice as often because the turbocharger operates at high temperatures. For stable operation of the device, you must constantly monitor the air filter.

In addition to the turbine, to increase the power of the engine, you can install a compressor on it, which will pump air. The compressor drive is connected to the crankshaft. The compressor does not increase the temperature because it does not use exhaust gas, but it reduces the useful work of the engine.

In general, installing a compressor is considered a simpler task than installing a turbine. When faced with the question of whether to choose a compressor or a turbine, car owners often lean towards the first option.

FAQ

Since the same questions come up quite often, we’ll add some information in advance that will be useful.

First of all, throw away all the old literature and illusions. You should not believe everything that is written on the Internet. There is nothing useful there for beginners and especially for experienced ones.

Is it possible to blow into a stock motor?

It is possible to increase power on a standard engine by installing a turbine or compressor!

How much power will I get out of it?

Power metering companies will be happy to provide this information to you. In short, go to the stand and take measurements BEFORE and AFTER. In a conversation, you can only determine an approximate calculation in percentage or horses, which may differ up or down.

Is it possible to blow 1 bar without touching the motor?

The standard engine can be inflated to 1 bar if the compression ratio allows. The lower the compression ratio, the greater the excess pressure at the inlet. For example: Motors with a compression ratio of 10 hold pressure up to 0.8 bar. Motors with a compression ratio of 10.5 hold a pressure of 0.7 bar. In order to inflate 1 bar into a standard engine, the compression ratio should be no higher than 9.5 - 9.8.

Do you need a brain tune-up?

After installing the turbine, adjustment is required! It is IMPOSSIBLE not to make corrections to the standard firmware!

Is it possible to set up a regular controller?

It is possible, BUT not all and not in all cases. In some cases, the regular controller does not understand the excess of more than 0.3-0.5 bar and cannot correctly adjust the fuel and ignition at the moment of excess pressure. In other cases, it is adjusted to 0.3-0.5 bar. In other cases, only install a sub-controller!

How much does it cost to increase engine power?

The cost of modifying the motor is individual and different for each project. The cost of installing a compressor is from 15 thousand rubles (labor) The cost of installing a turbine for foreign cars without engine modification is from 30 thousand rubles (labor) The cost of installing a turbine for foreign cars with engine preparation is from 60 thousand rubles (labor)

SWAP from 45 thousand rubles (work) The cost of building an individual project is discussed in person.

Principle of structure

It should be noted that now some German manufacturers have such superchargers in their engines.

And they are installed, as you understand, in the air intake system. Mercedes, BMW and AUDI were the first to use such superchargers.

The principle here is simple - a powerful “fan” is installed, which creates a pressure of approximately 0.5 atmospheres (and possibly more). Powered by the vehicle's electrical system, it pumps additional oxygen into the engine to increase power. With fuel supply settings, you can achieve a significant increase - about 20 - 30%.

The electric turbine should also be adjusted to certain speeds, for example, at idle it should work slower, and at high speeds, correspondingly faster. It turns out to be almost an ideal system! But what’s the catch, where are the downsides? And you know, they exist.

Disadvantages of the electric option

Many of my readers think that making such a system is very simple, you need to take some kind of cooler and insert it into the air intake pipe and that’s happiness! Such “miracle coolers” are usually sold in Chinese online stores; we’ll talk about these types below.

However, guys, not everything is so simple here. In normal (idling) mode, a naturally aspirated 1.6-liter engine consumes approximately 300 - 400 liters of air per hour of operation. And at high speeds, say 4000 - 5000, we multiply this figure by 4 - 5, that is, 1200 - 1600 liters. Just imagine this volume! If you calculate the minute consumption 300/60 = 5 liters per minute, or 20 at high speeds.

So - the electric turbine should increase this figure, and not slow it down! If you install a weak engine, it will not pump up the required pressure, but will create an “air lock” effect, that is, with its blades it will slow down the flow of air into the engine and interfere with normal passage.

Now imagine what an electric version of the engine is needed to pump such a volume! I repeat, to increase performance you need at least 6 - 7 liters of air at idle, and 25 at high, and this is for the 1.6 liter version; for larger volumes you need more.

If we draw an analogy with German manufacturers, then they use at least a brushless 0.5 kW electric motor, which rotates at crazy speeds, can reach up to 20,000 and its pressure capacity ranges from 1 to 5 atmospheres.

For more powerful cars, more powerful engines up to 0.7 kW are used.

As it becomes clear, a standard generator may not be able to handle such electricity consumption, so it is replaced with a more powerful one, or an additional one is installed.

And as you know, high energy consumption simply slows down the generators, and therefore increases engine braking, which will affect its output and reduce efficiency.

However, the experiments carried out revealed an increase in productivity by approximately 20–30%, which is significant. But due to the complexity and high cost of the devices, application on cars is not yet in mass production.

For example, mechanical compressors are much cheaper and more efficient. Sometimes the difference in price can reach 5 – 7 times.

A few words about Chinese electric turbines

Literally 2 years ago, the “auto Internet” simply exploded with electric turbines from China. A small “thingy” was offered, which was installed in the gap in the air intake hose, which supposedly pumped air with pressure into the engine, a promised increase in power by as much as 15%! The engine itself was an incomprehensible cooler, neither electricity consumption, nor speed, nor pumped air - there were no indicators. If you even disassemble it visually, it becomes clear that this is a cooler similar to advanced computer coolers, so what can it increase? NOTHING! So we just don’t buy - it’s a SCAM.

Now, of course, other electric turbines are starting to appear on the same Chinese sites, many are even made in the shape of a snail - ala a mechanical compressor. But again, there are no indicators of pressure, consumption, or air pumping. Think before you buy. Let's watch an educational video.

Drive compressor or air blower. Pump up your car

After I described the “boosting” of the engine. Many people started asking me a question about the drive compressor or air blower. After all, it can really be installed on our native VAZ. Today I want to tell you about this device in more detail, namely how it works and whether it is possible to install it yourself...

CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE

In general, the idea of compressors is as old as the world. As early as 1900, such devices were proposed to increase engine power by forcing additional air into the cylinders. Let me give you a little definition.