Installation of cables for the VAZ 2114 stove

Winter has come and you, anticipating a comfortable and warm ride in your car, start its engine and wait for it to warm up. And now, the moment to turn on the stove has come! You redirect the airflow towards you, and what happens? Absolutely nothing! It's all because of the VAZ 2114 stove cables.

The side and central deflectors give out a portion of barely warm air, and blowing the glass does not melt the ice as quickly as we would like. Many car owners put up with such injustice, the quirks of the domestic automobile industry. But you and I are not one of them and are going to radically move the situation forward!

Causes of stove malfunction

There are as many reasons for stove malfunctions as there are drivers. The forums are full of requests for help: first one reason, then another, then a third. As a result, there is no consensus on how to eliminate similar faults.

This article is devoted to only a few, the most important problems of repairing your favorite iron horse with your own hands. Don't judge harshly if you didn't find a solution here that would help you.

You should not forget that you are just a car enthusiast, and not a professional master from a large service center that services equally cool cars. You shouldn’t consider yourself a woodpecker or complain that your hands are growing from the wrong place, you just need to start small.

This video shows how to repair a VAZ stove, and you can decide for yourself whether this adjustment method is right for you:

Some car owners solved the problem immediately. Suitable for the case when warm air blows directly in the center or on the legs, and only a stream of cold or slightly warm air flows on the sides or on the windshield.

For winter, such a malfunction is simply a disaster: you suffer so much that it doesn’t seem like much. After watching this video and adjusting the heater, you can at least temporarily make sure that hot air hits the windshield. The cabin will also become warmer. But don’t overdo it: there is an unpleasant trick: with “headless efforts” you can break off the plastic to which the cable is attached.

You can move the damper to the “hot” position: just secure it tightly, covering it with a sealed mass. In this case, send the ill-fated drive cable to the place where your spare parts are stored. You will feel the positive effect immediately, although the positive temperature of the cabin is now regulated exclusively by the “stove” tap.

The heat will increase so much that you can forget about earflaps and sheepskin coats: you, as a driver, will feel comfortable behind the wheel even in forty-degree frost. The cold air is now tightly sealed and has nowhere to penetrate. But the air on the right will still be somewhat colder. Depends on the deformation of the flap during operation of the car: on the opposite side of the cable, the lid will no longer close tightly.

But first, check

However, before you start disassembling the stove and making technological changes to its operation, find out that other components of the system are working correctly. Improvements will not yield results if the problems lie elsewhere.

Make sure the pump is working properly. Breaking off the impeller impairs heat transfer. If the car begins to overheat frequently in the summer, and the heater does not work well in winter, this may indicate this problem.
Make sure the thermostat is working properly. If it is stuck closed, the stove does not heat up at all. Antifreeze does not go into a large circle. If it is stuck open, the car (and with it the stove) heats up very slowly, the air comes out only slightly warm.
Make sure the stove fan is working. It should work in all speed modes.
Make sure your cabin filter is not clogged. Where is it? This is probably your problem. Open the hood, you will find it in the part between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment, approximately in the center.
Make sure your heater core is not clogged. It is recommended to wash it periodically (every 2-3 years) using special products.

And only after making sure that modernization is necessary and everything else works, proceed to disassembling the VAZ 2114 stove and modifying it. This is quite possible and even necessary to do it yourself. Car service centers are unlikely to undertake such work.

A good stove heater is installed in the interior of front-wheel drive VAZ cars - in winter it is quite warm in the Zhiguli. But sometimes various problems arise - the stove blows cold air (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, other Samara models).

why doesn't the heater heat up?
what needs to be done to ensure that warm air enters the cabin.

Step-by-step replacement of the VAZ-2114 stove

For those for whom this method is not suitable, you can completely remove the stove and adjust it. This is done in stages.

Before you remove the heater (1), do not forget to disconnect the ground wire, otherwise the battery will play a trick on you. At the same time, drain the coolant from the system.

Now remove the instrument panel, as well as the floor tunnel lining. Now carefully disconnect the air duct (under No. 19) to heat the interior.

Start a new round of work:

Carry out the same manipulations with the electrical wires from the resistor (No. 18), the electric motor (No. 2) of the fan, the inlet (No. 12) and outlet (No. 13) faucet hoses.

Sequentially unscrew the 2 nuts securing the faucet directly to the front panel.
Remove the seal from the faucet pipes.
It's time to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the stove to the body.
You can easily remove the heater of your vase with control assembly.
Once you finish the adjustment process, carry out the installation in strict reverse order.

How to replace the radiator of a VAZ 2114 stove

In this section you will learn how to replace a stove radiator yourself. Start by draining the coolant that is in the system. After you have completed this work, you can remove the instrument panel. Now let's go through the points:

In your cabin, directly under the instrument panel, disconnect the pair of hoses that go to the heater tap pipes.
To perform these manipulations without problems, loosen the clamps.
Do the same steps in the space under the hood: disconnect the hoses from the valve nozzles themselves, unscrew the nuts that secure the radiator, remove the valve from the shield.
Remove the faucet rod holder.
Disconnect the rod from the lever.
Go to the interior, remove the cover from the gear shift knob.
Remove the plastic trim: it is located under the brake (manual).
Unscrew and remove the floor trim (rear): it is located between the seats. For convenience, slide it back.
Disconnect the air vent (cabin) from the heater body and remove it.
Disconnect the connector from the motor and resistor.
To the right and left of the heater, unscrew 2 pairs of nuts.
Remove the radiator with the control panel.
Make a replacement.
Start the assembly process in reverse order.

In addition to what has been said, you can watch a video with the repair of the radiator frame, also more about the stove radiator and its replacement here and here

and one more small story:

How to remove and replace the heater valve

The price for replacing a stove faucet at a service center will be about 1000-1500 rubles, so despite the complexity of the procedure, many try to remove and change it themselves. In addition, it is much easier and faster than doing repairs. To completely replace a VAZ 2114 heating tap, a simple set of tools is sufficient, in particular:

Wrenches of different sizes (socket wrenches, open-end wrenches for “10” and “13”), and if it’s a head with a cardan, that’s great.
Worm clamp with a diameter of 16-23 mm
Silicone sealant.
Rags.
Screwdriver with Phillips bit.
New heating tap.
We also recommend that you immediately buy two pipes going from the heater tap to the radiator (since they lose their elasticity over time and can leak).
A container where you will need to drain the coolant.
Well, if possible, use a fresh coolant itself, so as not to pour the old one back in.

And besides the tool, it is advisable to have an inspection hole or overpass at your disposal, since the tap is unscrewed from the engine compartment, and an assistant is needed from inside the cabin.

The work of replacing the heater tap on a VAZ 2114 car is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Make sure the engine is completely cool before starting work. Having installed the car in the pit, remove the crankcase protection.
Then you need to drain the coolant from the engine block (drain bolt behind the ignition module) and the cooling radiator (faucet at the bottom), as well as from the pipes leading to the faucet from the engine compartment. At the same time, treat the stud nuts with a wedge, let them dry out until the moment when we unscrew the faucet, this will greatly facilitate its dismantling.
Next in the cabin, on the front passenger side, you need to remove the side trim of the torpedo (unscrew 5 screws) and remove the carpet to get to the faucet and its pipes.
To prevent the interior from flooding with antifreeze when the hoses are removed (by loosening the clamps with a Phillips screwdriver), the first step is to lay a rag.
To make it convenient to remove the tap, it is better to remove the pipes from the stove.
They will come back under the car again and use the key or a “10” socket to unscrew the nuts from the studs and go back up into the cabin.
Using pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver, disconnect the drive cable of the faucet locking mechanism, after first removing the bracket holding the rod. It will be more convenient to do this on the driver’s side, but then you will also have to remove the trim there.
Now you can extract the culprit of all events.
Take a new faucet and install it in the same place, after replacing the rubber gaskets. We install the control cable in place and check the tension.
We carry out the same steps in reverse order. Be careful when tightening the pipe clamps, especially on the through plastic ones. After all, if you don’t hold it in enough, then in cold weather it will start to suck in air, but if you overtighten it, then many taps have such a quality of plastic that they simply burst.

The VAZ 2114 stove does not heat well

Oh, those stoves! Let's try to figure it out.

Situation: The car owner’s interior is poorly heated by the stove, although warm air is supplied, and the engine temperature remains within 90 degrees. According to external signs, the radiator of the heating system is also hot and the pipes are in normal condition.

Question: What should I do?

Answer: Unscrew the side of the passenger torpedo (the brains) yourself and inspect in the area of the engine shield there are 2 hoses that go to the heater. Feel how hot they are. If there is no heat there, then they are clogged. Clean it and everything will be as it should! Now check the engine using the sensor or on-board indicator.

The VAZ 2114 heater motor does not work

It happened: The owner got into his car, started his girlfriend, turned on the stove fan and heard... silence. He was not an experienced driver, but he immediately figured out how to get into that same fuse box. I was not confused and changed one of them. But time passed, and the motor still did not work.

Urgent questions: Is the electric motor covered, has the contact come loose?

If the driver is just a beginner, then go straight to a car service center.
For an experienced owner, the following steps: crawl under the panel and inspect the contacts on both the fan and the switch.
Unplug the connector and check the voltage to the motor with a probe. If it is, then remove the motor.
It is possible that the “minus” has fallen off from the electric motor itself. In his place! Five minutes later, your car is already warm.

Heater cables VAZ 2114

The second “jamb”: dampers

Another problem with the VAZ 2114 stove is the operation of the dampers. In the car, their position is regulated by three more cables. They also tend to become loose and malfunction over time. An indicator of a violation of their adjustment is the fact that hot air comes only from the central air duct, while cold air goes to the passenger seats and to the front window heater.

Adjustment of these cables is carried out similarly to the cable of the stove faucet. When the slider is moved to the extreme right, the dampers should be fully open.

If you plan to adjust the heater while replacing the radiator, you should also pay attention to the condition of the dampers themselves. If they are not airtight, they should be glued with foam rubber or any other insulation. Any leaks lead to the dilution of the hot air flow with cold air and, as a result, to a deterioration in the operation of the stove.

Modification of the left deflector

The left deflector (driver's) is located farthest from the hot air entry point. As a result, all losses affect him more than anything else. It also happens that there is warm air everywhere except it. Naturally, the driver will not like this much, especially if he usually drives alone in the car.

The principle of operation of the heater cables on the VAZ 2114

The operation of a car's heating system is to transfer and redirect the heat that is released as a result of engine operation. Heat is removed by the cooling system and supplied, among other things, to the heater radiator. Then, when the switch is turned on (turned on), the heating system starts a motor that blows out hot air and passes it through the car panel deflectors. Air redirection to a particular area is carried out directly by the driver by switching the airflow positions.

When clicked, the picture enlarges

Most cases of stove malfunctions are associated with just one reason and this is the VAZ 2114 stove cable. The fact is that over time the tension of the cable weakens. This occurs as a result of its constant tension, weakening when moving the lever for adjusting the heating mode (cold and hot). There are also cases when the cable completely flies off the stove tap. As a result, the stove valve does not open completely, thereby you do not receive significant portions of hot air from the heating system.

What to do? To change or not to change? Here are the most common questions from car enthusiasts. Let's answer this: before replacing anything, you should find the cause of the malfunction and try to eliminate it.

The first “jamb”: the stove tap

The first problem area of the VAZ 2114 is the valve at the antifreeze inlet into the stove. On the one hand, its undoubted advantage is that if you accidentally break off the fitting on which the pipe is placed, it is enough to replace the tap. For example, on most foreign cars produced in the 90s, these fittings are an integral part of the heater radiator. If they are broken during repairs, you will have to replace the entire radiator. But on the other hand, due to this design, the quality of coolant circulation is much worse. And that means comfort from being in the cabin.

In addition, the supply of hot antifreeze for the stove is controlled mechanically on the VAZ 2114 using a cable. And this cable becomes dirty and “pulled out”. The fastening of this cable itself may weaken over time. As a result, the stove will not work properly.

Usually, if problems arise with cold air from the stove, it is recommended to tighten the cable.

Adjusting the heater tap cable

The problem arises due to the general unreliability of the mechanical cable system for controlling the interior heating controls on the VAZ 2114. We have already talked about this. Loosening or pulling the cable over time leads to the fact that the stove tap no longer closes (opens) completely when moving the slider on the control panel. To solve this problem, you need:

Find the control cable for the stove tap. It runs under the panel near the gas pedal.
Pull the cable so that when the damper is fully open, it also opens fully. Sometimes, with a strong stretch, the cable is shortened a little for this purpose. Do not overdo it, otherwise the tap will not close. Warm air will continue to blow in summer.

Diagnostics of the operation of the VAZ 2114 stove cables

In order to inspect the valve cable of the VAZ 2114 stove, you need to dismantle the side panel trim on the driver's side (to the right of the gas pedal). Further details:

Start and warm up the car engine thoroughly.
Unscrew the three side trim mounting bolts.
Turn your gaze towards the heater valve.
Check to see if the cable has come loose from the faucet.
Move the heater lever on the instrument panel to maximum heating mode.
Pull the cable towards you and hold it in this position
Check if hot air is coming from the deflectors.

Now that the source of the problem has been identified. It is required to fix, give constant tension and thereby ensure good operation and correct throughput.

One of the options for increasing the tension is a method in which a part (0.5-1 centimeter) of the cable is bent at the point of direct connection to the heater lever. To do this you will need:

Remove the second trim, only from the passenger seat side.
Take pliers and pull the cable towards you (at this moment, the temperature switch should be at maximum heating mode).
Bend the additional amount of cable formed (its amount is selected experimentally, and in each specific case it differs and, as a rule, amounts to 0.5 centimeters).
We hook it up to the temperature switch of the stove.

Attention! To avoid damage, perform all tension-related actions carefully and do not use excessive force. If you overdo it with tension, you can damage the system and the functionality of the heating system.

Radiator tuning

Approximately 30% of uneven heating of the interior is a clogged VAZ 2114 heater radiator. To clean it, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Remove the radiator and rinse with strong water pressure. In this case, disconnect the pipes and connect hoses instead. Water must be supplied to the outlet. Then the dirt will be “squeezed out”;
2. Use any sewer pipe cleaner for flushing.

Pour it into the system and drain it after 20 minutes. After repeating this procedure three times, complete the rinsing with clean water.

3. Attach the pipes in place and fill in antifreeze or antifreeze;
4. When installing the radiator, seal it.

It is also important which heater radiator is installed on the VAZ 2114 - aluminum or copper. In the first case, it heats up quickly and also cools down instantly. But it has a larger number of fins and channel width, which gives better heat transfer at idle speed. Minus - cannot be repaired.

Copper heats up more slowly, but also cools down much longer. It has fewer ribs and narrower channels. At idle speed the air flow is cold. But if a leak occurs, it can be easily repaired.

A painted radiator is not suitable for tuning. It has little heat transfer and an unpleasant odor.

In total, problems can arise with two types of cables:

stove valve cables,
damper adjustment cables.

It is these elements that VAZ-2114 car owners have to deal with when the heater stops functioning effectively. It is recommended to first check other elements of the system for serviceability and operability, so as not to carry out unnecessary disassembly, assembly and adjustment work in vain.

Adjustment

Hot antifreeze for the heating system on the VAZ-2114 model is supplied mechanically, for which appropriate cables are used. Over time, they become dirty and stretched out. The moment of weakening of the fastening element is also taken into account. Because of this, the stove begins to function incorrectly. When the cable is loose or stretched, moving the heater tap slider on the panel does not make it possible to fully open or close it.

The first thing you can do in such a situation is to try to tighten the crane cable. For adjustment you need:

remove the driver's side panel skin,
a little higher under the steering wheel you will see a couple of cables,
you need the one to the left,
find the crane cable itself (it is fixed to it), which is located in the gas pedal area under the panel,
tighten the element so that when the damper is fully open, it opens fully,
in some cases, it is enough to shorten the cable literally by 5 mm, making an additional turn,
take into account the current state of tension. If the element is very loose, you will have to tighten it more or change it altogether.

Replacing heater cables on a VAZ 2114

Sometimes situations occur when, for one reason or another, the product becomes bent or even breaks off. Such cases require removing the device and replacing it with a new one. Recommendations for analysis are as follows:

The metal clips that hold the cable in place must be disconnected.
One end of the cable is connected to the tap, the other side to the lever for adjusting the air temperature in the cabin. Any sequence of disconnection can be followed. But it will be most convenient to first disconnect the end from the stove tap, unfasten all the clips and, last of all, disconnect it from the lever.
Now the product should be carefully removed from the case.
When reinstalling the new part, start by attaching it to the tap.

There are a lot of different models on the auto goods market that differ in length, thickness, various types, and shapes of both ends. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing a new product, we advise you to take it with you to the store. Usually cables are sold in one set of several pieces at once.

So we learned how to change the heater cables on a VAZ 2114. The most important thing when carrying out work is not to rush, to understand the principle of operation of the hot and cold air supply mechanism. We wish you warm heaters!)

Malfunctions in the cooling system

The stove may blow cold air due to a malfunction in the cooling system. If the heater motor is working properly, we look for the reason for supplying cold air into the cabin instead of hot air in the following order:

open the hood, check the coolant level in the expansion tank, if necessary, add antifreeze to the required level;
Warm up the engine, pay attention to the readings of the temperature sensor on the instrument panel. If the temperature does not rise to the desired value, the valve in the thermostat may be faulty - it opens prematurely;
The cooling system can also “air up”, often the cause of this phenomenon is a broken head gasket. A cylinder head burnout may be accompanied by the following symptoms:

Antifreeze splashes out of the expansion tank.
The gauge on the instrument panel shows a high temperature.
The engine is tripping.
Antifreeze gets into the oil, the engine oil becomes lighter.

If the cylinder head gasket breaks, cold air often blows into the cabin only at low speeds; when the engine is pressurized, the cooling system is “pierced” and hot air begins to flow into the cabin. Very often, replacing the PGBC solves the problem.

Causes of stove malfunction

This video shows how to repair a VAZ stove, and you can decide for yourself whether this adjustment method is right for you:

Reasons for decreased performance

Despite the simplicity of the design, problems with the VAZ-2114 stove often arise. They are mainly associated with a drop in the performance of the heating system - the stove heats the air poorly, blows cold or slightly warm air. In this case, the reasons for poor operation of the stove can be both general (warming up is weak at any control unit settings) and when operating in a certain mode, for example, at idle. Or, for example, cold air or slightly warm air blows only on the side windows, and in other modes the heating works normally.

Common reasons why the stove stops heating:

the heater radiator is clogged or an air lock has formed in it;
when switched to heating mode, the heater damper does not fit tightly to the body, which is why part of the air flow moves bypassing the radiator and enters the cabin cold;
the tap does not open completely - this is one of the main reasons for a poorly heating stove;
the formation of cracks at the joints of the housing and air ducts, which causes strong dispersion of the air flow.

It is not difficult to determine the cause of a general decrease in the efficiency of the heating system. To find out why the VAZ-2114 stove does not heat well, you need to remove the side decorative panels from the center console, and then warm up the engine and turn on the stove at maximum power. After this, we try the antifreeze supply pipe to the heater radiator up to the tap and behind it. The same heating temperature of the tube on both sides indicates that the tap is working properly and the problem lies in the radiator. If after the tap the pipe is less warmed up, the tap is jammed or does not open completely.

After this, we determine the temperature at the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator. If the heat exchanger is not clogged and there is no plug in it, then the temperature of the outlet pipe will be lower than the inlet pipe. But if the outlet tube is cold, antifreeze does not circulate through the radiator, which indicates the formation of an air lock (airing) or clogging.

A common cause of failure of the VAZ-2114 stove is wear and play in the sliders. Because of this, even when they are moved to their extreme positions, the cables do not bring the valve and dampers to the stop (the valve remains closed, and the dampers do not block the air flow channels). This problem can be easily resolved - you need to make an adjustment and shorten the cables a little.

The problem of insufficient heating of one of the zones is associated with a violation of the damper control. This happens due to the same wear on the sliders, the cable jumping off the damper levers, the damper axes jumping out of the seats in the body, which is accompanied by clicks.

In addition to weak warming up, VAZ-2114 car owners are faced with the fact that the intensity of air flow decreases. This happens due to the dispersion of air through the cracks at the junction of the body and air ducts, clogging the latter with debris - many owners do not install cabin filters, so leaves get into the air ducts and interfere with air movement.

Step-by-step replacement of the VAZ-2114 stove

For those for whom this method is not suitable, you can completely remove the stove and adjust it. This is done in stages.

Before you remove the heater (1), do not forget to disconnect the ground wire, otherwise the battery will play a trick on you. At the same time, drain the coolant from the system.

Now remove the instrument panel. as well as lining the floor tunnel. Now carefully disconnect the air duct (under No. 19) to heat the interior.

Start a new round of work:

Carry out the same manipulations with the electrical wires from the resistor (No. 18), the electric motor (No. 2) of the fan, the inlet (No. 12) and outlet (No. 13) faucet hoses.

Sequentially unscrew the 2 nuts securing the faucet directly to the front panel.
Remove the seal from the faucet pipes.
It's time to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the stove to the body.
You can easily remove the heater of your vase with control assembly.
Once you finish the adjustment process, carry out the installation in strict reverse order.

How to replace the radiator of a VAZ 2114 stove

In your cabin, directly under the instrument panel, disconnect the pair of hoses that go to the heater tap pipes.
To perform these manipulations without problems, loosen the clamps.
Do the same steps in the space under the hood: disconnect the hoses from the valve nozzles themselves, unscrew the nuts that secure the radiator, remove the valve from the shield.
Remove the faucet rod holder.
Disconnect the rod from the lever.
Go to the interior, remove the cover from the gear shift knob.
Remove the plastic trim: it is located under the brake (manual).
Unscrew and remove the floor trim (rear): it is located between the seats. For convenience, slide it back.
Disconnect the air vent (cabin) from the heater body and remove it.
Disconnect the connector from the motor and resistor.
To the right and left of the heater, unscrew 2 pairs of nuts.
Remove the radiator with the control panel.
Make a replacement.
Start the assembly process in reverse order.

In addition to what has been said, you can watch a video with the repair of the radiator frame, also more about the stove radiator and its replacement here and here

and one more small story:

Which heater tap to choose

The ceramic faucet from YVVA is, according to most, the highest quality.

For VAZ-2113-2114-15 models, a single valve from 2108 is suitable. The car is equipped with far from the highest quality spare parts from the assembly line, since the membrane valve is completely plastic. True, analogues have not gone far. So, the opinions of many auto repairmen differ regarding which heater tap to choose for the VAZ 2114 and other Samar models. Some claim that you shouldn’t overpay and just buy a regular plastic one. Others say that a ceramic one can last a little longer than 50 thousand km (approximately the same service life of a standard heating faucet) and if it is not possible to install a ball one, then it is better. And still others even advise redoing the system in order to move the whole thing under the hood, and install a regular water tap there to forget about the leak problem forever. Therefore, let’s see what the manufacturers offer us, what the price is for the heater tap, and decide which one is best for your “four” to choose.

Plastic membrane (original)

In the factory configuration, the machine has a standard coolant control valve 21080-8101150-00 , which has only one, and even then a dubious, plus: low price. But you have to pay these 60 rubles again and again, every season - the leak starts where the flow control axis is located. So, given the problems that you have to face due to the failure of a car’s heating tap, it’s worth considering more reliable options. Although, to a large extent, the quality of the stove’s membrane tap depends on the manufacturer, and there may be several of them. For example, a standard plastic heater valve for the VAZ 2108 is produced by DAAZ, and in several packages (one of them is specifically for AvtoVAZ). But besides them, on store shelves you can also find such budget ones as: Aroki and Grand RiAl. This means that the problem of unreliability may lie precisely in an unscrupulous manufacturer.

Ceramic heating tap

Ceramic Luzar and ball Chance-auto heater valves for VAZ 2108-14-15 from the middle price category and the same quality.

Of all the options listed, this one is the leader in popularity. But don't think this is an obvious choice. Quite often it fails no less than the standard one, and only lasts for a couple of seasons. It is chosen solely because the ceramic curtain inside the locking mechanism keeps it tightly closed. This is where the advantages end; like the previous one, it is also not deprived of disadvantages. Firstly, it is a higher cost compared to the factory and ball models. Secondly, the throughput in this option is lower than the ball one. Thirdly, there is a lot of defects, and either at the junction or from under the lever (damper axis), a leak soon begins to appear. Moreover, most often it is the latter problem that is the reason for replacement. And all due to the fact that at the factory the hole for the rod is made with poor quality and the rubber seals quickly wear out. If reducing the incoming heat is not critical for you, and the presence of a share of high-quality parts does not frighten you, you can also purchase a ceramic heating tap.

The situation with them is exactly the same as with standard ones, different manufacturers - different quality. According to reviews of many owners of VAZ 2108, 2109 and 2113-15 cars, they are looking for the Ulyanovsk YAVVA (spare part code 2108-8101150-12 ) which will cost 350 rubles, since it has good equipment (fastening nuts, washers, rubber sealing rings), aluminum body, ceramic insides. LUZAR LV0108 on the market (100 rubles cheaper, but few are satisfied with the quality, since it lasts for 2 years or even less), modified Pramo (21088101150P), quite expensive PEKAR (costs about 500 rubles), and also the Polish Avrora (HV-LA2108) and the very budget TSN 852 (even more quality problems than the Luzar).

Ball valve for radiator

This is already a more suitable part if you focus on the price-quality ratio. for a radiator ball valve (cat. no. 2108-8101150-14 ) is slightly higher than for a standard model, but the quality is also higher, but compared to ceramic valves it is even cheaper. However, here too there is a relatively high susceptibility to souring.

The market represents only a couple of manufacturers of such faucets: Ulyanovsk ( Simbirsk Foundry Alloy ) and Chance-Auto . One of the main disadvantages of the SLS ball valve is that it is very difficult to move it from the closed state to the “open” position. And this, in turn, negatively affects the stops in the plastic drive mechanism of the dampers and the tap at the places where the cables are attached. Owners of "Samar" probably encounter such a problem even with regular efforts. So, most likely it will have to be modified, but the thickness of the walls of the pipe and the quality of the plastic inspire confidence. But the axis, although it wobbles a little, but the ball rotates in the plastic inserts and holds it very tightly. Which is true, just like ceramic, over time it will flow along the lever bushing.

Water tap in car

Yes, and this method has a right to exist. Some people think this is an overly simple solution to the problem, while others have been using it for a long time without any problems. Below we will look at this option in more detail.

The VAZ 2114 stove does not heat well

Oh, those stoves! Let's try to figure it out.

Situation. The car owner's interior is poorly heated by the stove, although warm air is supplied, and the engine temperature remains within 90 degrees. According to external signs, the radiator of the heating system is also hot and the pipes are in normal condition.

Question. What to do?

Answer. Unscrew the side of the passenger torpedo (the brains) yourself and inspect in the area of the engine shield there are 2 hoses that go to the heater. Feel how hot they are. If there is no heat there, then they are clogged. Clean it and everything will be as it should! Now check the engine using the sensor or on-board indicator.

The VAZ 2114 heater motor does not work

It happened. The owner got into his car, started his girlfriend, turned on the heater fan and heard... silence. He was not an experienced driver, but he immediately figured out how to get into that same fuse box. I was not confused and changed one of them. But time passed, and the motor still did not work.

Pressing questions. Is the electric motor covered, has the contact come loose?

If the driver is just a beginner, then go straight to a car service center.
For an experienced owner, the following steps: crawl under the panel and inspect the contacts on both the fan and the switch.
Unplug the connector and check the voltage to the motor with a probe. If it is, then remove the motor.
It is possible that the “minus” has fallen off from the electric motor itself. In his place! Five minutes later, your car is already warm.

Electrical equipment
Engine
Brake system
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Tuning

VAZ 2110

Other
Engine
Steering
Electrical equipment
Transmission
Brake system
Suspension
Tuning

Repair of VAZ 2114 stove: radiator (heater) and other components

With the arrival of winter, car enthusiasts often encounter problems with the operation of their heating stove. The VAZ 2114 model is no exception.

The cause of the breakdown can be any part or component of the car's heating element. You can repair the heater yourself, without using the services of a car service, so first you need to understand the principle of operation of the heating system on a VAZ 2114 car.

The heater tap is used to regulate the air supply to the cabin. It is used to regulate the supply of coolant to the heater radiator. The liquid heats up to 95 degrees and heats the air to an elevated temperature, which already enters the cabin. When the heater is on, the heater fan runs, which “drives” air into the cabin.

Heater maintenance

To ensure that the VAZ-2114 heater heats well in winter, carry out maintenance of the heater before the cold weather:

Remove it from the car.
Disassemble and clean.
Check the functionality of the dampers, seal their ends with sealants.
Seal the joints with sealant.
Flush the radiator.
After assembly, adjust the drive cables so that when moving the sliders, the valves and the tap become in their extreme positions.

These measures are enough for the heating system to function normally in winter, providing warmth to the car interior.

Finally, we note that the reasons for the poor operation of the stove were discussed above, but it still continues to function. But this unit also has breakdowns and then the stove fails and stops working completely. Such reasons include breakdown of the radiator, leaks at the joints of the pipes, fan malfunction (open circuit, exhausted motor life or burnout).

The main reasons for the VAZ 2114 heater not working and repair methods

The cabin air filter needs to be replaced

The filter is located in the engine compartment - under the frill (furnace casing). On older 2114 models there is no cabin filter. To check, press on the stove casing and also watch for the reaction. If the casing fails, then there is no filter. The elasticity of the casing will indicate the opposite.

Replacing the cabin filter VAZ 2114

Let's take a closer look at replacing the VAZ 2114 cabin filter:

Remove the rubber seal with all fixing devices;
Unscrew all the screws and nuts. Don't forget about the plastic plugs;
Disconnect the frill. You need to unscrew the screws and remove the plastic mesh;
We change the cabin filter and restore everything in the reverse order.

Even if everything is fine with your heater, and there is no need to talk about repairs, try to change the filter once every 7-8 thousand km, because you will be breathing dust that comes from the street.

Lack of required pump pressure

If your stove does not heat up at idle, but only when you press the gas, then the reason is insufficient coolant circulation. No repairs are required here; the main problem is the insufficient amount of antifreeze.

Checking the antifreeze level in the expansion tank

To check, open the hood and check the amount of antifreeze or antifreeze. Do not exceed the maximum value indicated on the tank.

Fan problem

To check the operation of the fan, you just need to start the car, turn on the heater and try changing the position of the speed control. If you do not hear any sound, then the fan is not working and needs to be replaced.

Checking and replacing the radiator

If your stove radiator is clogged, then it is worth flushing it with cleaning fluid and clearing it of dirt. If these steps do not help, then you will not be able to do without replacing the radiator.

Drivers recommend the DAAZ radiator, but it is very difficult to find.

This is what a radiator for a VAZ 2114 looks like

To remove the radiator, you need to do the following:

Apply any cream to your hands generously (it will help with cuts and will make it easier to wash later);
Drain the coolant (screw in the hose from the mixer instead of the drain plug to minimize the loss of antifreeze);

To drain the liquid, screw the hose from the mixer into the heater coolant drain plug.

Let's move on to the side panels and the glove compartment (consists of 3 parts). Remember there are two fastenings to the floor: near the ECU;

We unscrew all the screws securing the glove compartment, as well as the fastenings to the floor near the ECU. The glove box is easy to remove.

Unscrew the fastening screws holding the cables. They need to be unscrewed on both the left and right sides. Plus, 3 screws on the driver's side;

Unscrew the screws securing the cables. It is done on both sides.

Carefully try to pull the panel towards you. If it is difficult, then you need to check everything again for the presence of fasteners. After all, repairing the panel will be an unnecessary problem for you;

Let's try to remove the panel. We carefully pull it towards us. If it doesn’t work, check that all the fasteners are loose.

All we have to do is unscrew the two clamps from the radiator. But there is no need to rush, prepare a container for the remaining antifreeze, which will definitely “hide” in the heating system.

Use a screwdriver to remove the heater pipe clamps and remove the radiator.

All the fluid has been drained, the clamps and other fasteners have been disconnected, and the radiator is already visible. All we have to do is get him out.

It will be difficult for you to get by without the help of a friend. The VAZ 2014 panel is very heavy and you need to lift it quite high. One should lift it to a sufficient height, the second should pull out the radiator. The same steps must be followed during assembly.

Remember that all the coolant we drained will be fine for us to refill.

Stove valve malfunction

Unsatisfactory operation of the stove can be corrected by taking the time to repair the faucet. In order for the faucet to open completely, you need to take pliers and pull the cable near the gas pedal, increasing the tension. It doesn't hurt to be careful in your actions - by making a sudden movement, you can fill the interior with coolant.

Thermostat not working

To check the thermostat, try starting the car and waiting a few minutes. Next, find the pipe connecting the thermostat to the radiator. If it is warm, then the thermostat is not closed well, and the liquid simply remains in the radiator. In addition to problems with the operation of the stove, such a breakdown increases fuel consumption. Please take this into account.

Thermostat and thermostat pipes VAZ 2114.

Air lock formation

An air lock occurs after air appears in the upper part of the radiator, and then in the thermostat. To remove the plug you need:

Disconnect the hose from the fluid supply fitting to the carburetor starter;
Unscrew the cap of the expansion tank;
Blow until coolant flows out of the fitting;
Reconnect the hose.

Heater motor malfunctions

Troubleshooting in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should begin with the heater motor:

turn on the ignition, start the engine;
On the heater control unit we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you can hear the stove motor changing speed when switching, it is most likely working.

The heater motor may not work for several reasons:

the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block has oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the electrical wiring;
The furnace electric motor burned out.

If the motor only operates at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely faulty.

When the heater motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We carry out the work of replacing the part as follows (using the example of 2114):

remove the decorative trim on the driver's side of the cabin;
disconnect the black-blue power supply wire of the motor, unscrew the ground mount;
open the hood, remove the wiper arms;
unscrew the fastenings of the frill (windshield wiper panel), remove the rubber seal;
unscrew the four screws securing the upper motor casing;
we pull the power wires of the electric motor through the rubber seal;
to remove the motor itself, the housing must be halved;
Having turned half of the housing with the motor, we dismantle the assembly.

Now all that remains is to install the new spare part and secure all the removed parts in their places.

Refinement of the stove in a VAZ car: how you want real warmth...

As a rule, it is the GDP that causes the most complaints about the operation of the stove - a rare example blows normally into the legs and onto the windshield, and if the air is also hot, it’s a great success. Moreover, now some new cars are equipped with a “modernized” heater (also known as the “14th”), which, in addition to everything, blows cold air out of the side nozzles!

In reality, everything is not so scary - it can be treated, even the “14th” heater. The most disgusting thing is that you need to do this... There are plenty of manuals on this topic, one of the most complete is in FAK and belongs to the pen of the famous handmaker VIC78. I went through my stove using it, and the results were simply excellent. True, this happened a long time ago and there was not the slightest desire to take everything apart again for photographing.

Therefore, an action was carried out to upgrade the stove in the M(i)tenka car - VAZ-21093i 1999. with the “14th” heater on board. The fine-tuning of the stove was combined with noise insulation of the torpedo. I did not plan to make fundamental changes to the design of the heater, but only wanted to properly assemble and adjust it.

Disassembling the heater

First you need to drain the antifreeze - unscrew the plastic tap in the radiator (opposite the generator), but coolant will still remain in the heater radiator. Therefore, to drain it, a piece of hose with a funnel was used, which was placed directly next to the radiator hose. And if you pour the antifreeze into a clean container, then you can pour it back later...

To assess the misalignment of the heater output nozzles with the holes in the dashboard, you need to remove the air duct cover. As a rule, the stove is shifted slightly forward. If the misalignment is more than 50%, then the stove will have to be filed.

The torpedo will have to be removed. This procedure has also been described more than once, including in the magazine “ZR” No. 10 for 1999. Connectors for buttons and light bulbs can be labeled (with a felt-tip pen or on a piece of paper tape) so as not to be confused during installation. You also need to remove the steering wheel with pads and pull out the steering column switches.

Solving problems with a faulty stove, unit design

If a motorist wants to deal directly with the heater design, he should know what the VAZ-2114 stove diagram looks like. For active operation of the heater, only a few important parts are needed, in particular a ventilation engine, an additional resistance resistor and a toggle switch through which you can switch the speed of the unit.

Due to the fact that the motorist is faced with a system malfunction, he must first diagnose the performance of the heating device by setting the switch to the first position, then gradually move it to the second and third speed modes. Using the lever you can adjust the direction of the air flow, while the last position will help regulate the choice of air temperature.

Therefore, if the unit does not respond to the actions of the car owner, most likely the fan has stopped functioning properly. Apparently it just stopped turning on. However, if the heatsink still shows itself at least at some speeds, the problem may be related to the additional resistor. In such a situation, it would not be superfluous to check the VAZ-2114 stove, in which the switch may be inactive.

In the event that the car owner does not know how the heater on the VAZ-2114 works, and the heater fan operates at full power, while the temperature switch is set to maximum (the car’s power unit is also well warmed up), and only cold air flows from the heater, you will have to deal with the stove radiator, which, in all likelihood, is very clogged.

Heater modification: 3 comments

Hello! Same problem on my car! I want to make repairs according to your scheme. Please tell me what is outdated in the article, can the materials be replaced with more modern ones? I’d be grateful if we could chat by email! Thank you

I think silicone sealant and screws are still in use, 13 years later.