The starter makes noise when the engine is running

Many people probably know and have heard this annoying short whistle of the Bendix starter when starting the engine when cold... I have long wanted to deal with this annoying sound, but somehow I never got around to it. And so, on a beautiful sunny May day, I finally found the time to eliminate this nonsense.

So, let's start: I freed up space on the hood, then I needed heads for 14, 13 and 12

Evening in the house, citizens of Draivovsk.
As Mr. Presenter would say in the program “What? Where? When?”: “And we have a question from LadaRacing from Penza, attention to the screen.”
And now about the serious stuff. A sound that ate the nerve cells of more than one thousand drivers, making them blush in front of boys and beautiful girls. That same squealing pig under the hood. And all this is he - Starter! The problem is known on most Lada Priora older than 4-5 years. This misfortune has not spared my Porch, although it seems to be used little and carefully. The treatment is quite simple, which is what this post will be about. First things first. Tool:

— Ratchet — Socket head 13 — Socket head 8 — Curved screwdriver — Pliers
Time — about 2 hours.
So. First of all, disconnect the “-” terminal from the battery. Next, remove the air filter housing along with the mass air flow sensor, having previously disconnected the connector from it. We see the following picture

Many faults in a car can be determined by sound. When some extraneous noise appears in the form of an incomprehensible knock, grinding, howling or whistling, this may indicate a breakdown of one of the car components. Some malfunctions are quite easily eliminated along with accompanying symptoms in the form of annoying and disgusting sounds. But there are certain signs of breakdowns that appear most often. Most often, a whistle is heard when starting the engine, which can be caused by a number of factors. Moreover, similar unpleasant sounds can occur even when the engine is already running. Next, we will talk about the causes of such phenomena and ways to eliminate them.

Why the starter cracks: finding and eliminating the cause

If when you turn the ignition key you only hear a loud crash from the engine compartment, do not rush to immediately blame the starter for all your troubles. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon, and a breakdown of the starter retractor relay is just one of the most common malfunctions. Today we will talk about why the starter began to crack and what to do to restore its functionality.

Causes

Why is there a crackling and grinding sound when starting the engine? This question is often asked by beginners and not-so-motorists. Many people are frightened by the strange sound heard when starting the engine. Although in many cases this is not a difficult problem. But it still needs to be eliminated, and for this it’s good to know where to look for the problem. There are several places that produce crackling and grinding noises during startup:

Starter;
Flywheel;
Roller mounting bolt (timing).

Knowing the main places of breakdowns, you will quickly find out where the main problem is. For a more accurate diagnosis, open the hood and ask someone to start the engine. If there are problems with the starter and flywheel, a cracking noise will be heard from the rear of the engine when the bolt is unscrewed at the front.

Causes of malfunction

Before we begin to study the causes of the malfunction, we remind you that hereinafter we are talking about the crackling noise of the starter, which is most similar to the loud rattling of the contacts of an electromagnetic relay. If you hear an unpleasant metallic grinding noise from under the hood, then it appears due to poor engagement of the overrunning clutch (starter Bendix) with the flywheel teeth - that’s a completely different story.

Most often, the starter crackles when you turn the ignition key for three reasons:

Low battery

To understand the cause of the crackling noise due to a discharged battery, let's remember the starter device. When you turn the ignition key, the voltage from the on-board network is supplied to the coil of its solenoid relay. The electromagnetic forces that appear in this case cause the armature of the device to move. It closes the power contacts that connect the starter motor to the battery, and in addition, causes the Bendix gear to engage with the flywheel.

When the battery is discharged, its energy may be enough to attract the metal core - cranking the crankshaft is out of the question. As soon as the starter contacts close and power is supplied to its electric motor, the voltage drops to such an extent that the electromagnet is unable to hold the metal core. Under the action of the return spring, it tends to take its original position and opens the power contacts. The restored voltage contributes to the repeated retraction of the anchor, and the situation is recreated many times.

To make sure that the culprit of the problem is a deep discharge of the battery, just turn on several consumers (lighting, electric heater motor, etc.) and press the sound signal. The latter will either not turn on at all, or will be heard with wheezing, reduced amplitude or attenuation.

Poor engine ground contact

The picture of what is happening is practically indistinguishable from the case discussed above, with the only difference that the test for battery discharge ends with a negative result - all consumers, including the sound signal, are working at full strength.

At the same time, it is very simple to determine that the cause of the malfunction is poor contact between the battery and the engine - just pay attention to the oil pressure warning lamp, which is located on the instrument panel. If the voltage in the car’s on-board network is below normal, then turning the ignition switch to the “Start” position will lead to a gradual attenuation of the brightness of the warning lamp (like all others).

In the case where the cause of the crackling sound of the starter solenoid relay is a bad ground, an attempt to start the engine will lead to its complete extinction in time with the clicks of the solenoid relay. At the same time, other indicators practically do not change the intensity of the glow.

Everything is explained very simply - the “mass” of the oil pressure sensor, as well as the starter, is the housing. Therefore, as soon as the electrical contact between the engine and the battery is lost, both of these devices stop working synchronously.

Open or shorted starter relay winding

Another reason why the solenoid relay cracks is an interturn short circuit or a break in its holding winding. In other words, the efforts of the electromagnet become insufficient to keep the power contacts of the starter relay in the closed state and engage the overrunning clutch gear with the flywheel ring gear. Under the action of the return spring, the bendix tends to take its original position, and the contact pad located on the armature opens the electrical connection. After this, the retractor winding turns on again and the situation repeats itself many times, which causes the crackling noise.

to determine that in this case the starter solenoid relay has failed by the behavior of the warning lamps located on the instrument panel. At the moment when the loud clicks of the starter are heard, their brightness does not change - the switching of the starter motor occurs for such a short time that the battery voltage practically does not drop.

Something else useful for you:

How to fix a rattling starter

The method for troubleshooting depends on what is causing the problem. If the starter cannot work normally due to a discharged battery, it is enough to charge it to the required parameters. Typically, charging is carried out with a current of 0.1C, where C is the battery capacity in ampere-hours. At the same time, highly discharged current sources and calcium batteries should be charged with low currents (1-2 A) to at least 25% charge (this parameter is controlled by the density of the electrolyte). The gentle mode will take more time, but will protect the battery from many negative aspects.

Note! Often, when the battery is discharged, car owners try to start the engine “from a tow”. Note that this method is only suitable for the simplest power units, but not for injection engines. Launching the latter “from the pusher” often leads to a failure of the electronic control unit software.

The driver's first actions when noise appears from under the hood

The first thing any car owner should do is to get rid of the cause as quickly as possible. If you have repair skills, you can change belts, bearings or disassemble the starter yourself. If you are going on a long trip and find such a problem before setting off, we would advise you to first stop at a service station and have it resolved. Otherwise, a malfunction may overtake you on the road.

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Starter operating principles

A starter is an electric motor whose main task is to spin the engine so that it starts working on its own. To do this, a special control device is installed on the starter - a solenoid relay. But after starting the engine, the rapid rotation of the flywheel can destroy the starter mechanism, so a special overrunning clutch called a bendix is installed on it. The starter operates in several stages:

There are geared and gearless starters, but their operating principles are the same. They differ only in the torque transmission systems from the armature to the bendix.

Starter disassembly process

Remove the retractor;
Remove the front part of the starter;
We clean the starter rotor shaft, the “worm”, and the overrunning clutch itself.

For the third point, gasoline or special solvents are used (in no case water!). In some cases, the ubiquitous WD-40 can be used, at least at the initial stage. Solvent or regular gasoline allows you to get rid of dirt accumulations, even if the situation is already close to critical. If, even after cleaning, the acoustic situation has not improved, it is better to replace the bendix (overrunning clutch).

Source

No mechanical contact between gears

If the starter knocks when you turn on the ignition system and the solenoid relay works normally, but the engine does not start, then this problem is mechanical, and its reason is that the gear on the freewheel does not fit into the flywheel crown due to nicks formed on it teeth.

When moving forward, the bendix stops on these nicks, while the contact pins do not close the starter motor. As a result, after turning the key, only clicks are heard when the retractor is activated and dull blows when the flywheel and bendix gears collide.

A characteristic feature of this breakdown is that it manifests itself periodically; after the problem occurs, the car starts up normally again for some time. This comes from the relative position of the flywheel crown with the clogged areas. If they are opposite the teeth of the Bendix gear, the starter does not turn the crankshaft, and one defective tooth is enough for this. In all other cases there will be no problems with starting the engine.

To solve the problem when the starter rattles without engaging the flywheel, you need to turn the crankshaft a little. To do this, you need to turn off the ignition, set the gearbox to fourth gear, and then push the car. The crankshaft will rotate to the desired angle, and the car can be started. For large cars, it is better to jack up one of the drive wheels and turn it along with the crankshaft.

If the engine starts after turning the crankshaft, it is necessary to inspect the ring for defects. On many engines this can be done without removing the starter itself. To do this, remove the plug on the clutch housing and slide off the rubber cover on the clutch lever. We install the compact flashlight so that you can see the connector that opens after sliding the rubber cover.

We install a small mirror so that the teeth of the flywheel crown are visible. Through the hole from which the plug was removed, you can turn this gear using a screwdriver. At the same time, the teeth are carefully examined to see if they are deformed. If such a defect is identified, it will need to be eliminated. This is best done at a specially equipped station.

It should be noted that contacting an auto electrician or auto diagnostician for such a breakdown is simply a waste of money. If no grooves or other damage is found on the crown of faces, the problem lies in the starter itself.

VAZ 11113 3 doors hatchback, 35 hp, manual transmission, 1989 - rattling, knocking (whistle) when starting the engine

Grinding, knocking or whistling when starting the engine
The appearance of extraneous sounds in the engine compartment during or immediately after starting the engine is a reason to diagnose and check the internal combustion engine. Various deviations from the norm can occur as a result of wear of individual elements of attachments, drives, bearings, pulleys or belts. Also, one should not exclude the possibility of breakdown of the power unit itself and its components. Drivers often notice that when starting the engine when cold, a grinding noise is heard, something creaks in the engine, a whistle appears, etc.

It should be noted that usually many sounds are better heard during a cold start, although in some cases the noise does not go away even after the power unit warms up. It should also be added that in some cases the problem progresses noticeably, that is, the sound gets stronger each time or gradually. In other situations, extraneous noise may not change its tone and intensity over hundreds or even thousands of kilometers.

In this article we will talk about what kind of breakdowns can lead to noise being heard during a cold engine start, as well as how and by what additional signs you can determine the malfunction yourself.

A grinding noise is heard when starting the engine

If the driver turns the ignition key to the “start” position and at this moment a grinding noise is heard, and the noise disappears after the engine “cages” and starts working on its own, then the most common cause is considered to be a faulty starter.

If, when starting the engine, you hear the starter grinding whether it is cold or hot, then there may be several reasons for such a malfunction.

As a rule, it is necessary to check the solenoid relay, starter bendix and flywheel. The fact is that the bendix may not engage with the flywheel properly, resulting in a crackling sound or a characteristic starter grinding sound when starting the engine.

A whistling sound is heard when starting the engine

A whistling sound at start-up usually comes from the alternator belt or the cooling system water pump (pump). The malfunction manifests itself in the form of a high-frequency squeak or squeal after starting the internal combustion engine, and can also make itself felt already on a warm engine when you sharply press the gas pedal and increase the crankshaft speed.

If there is a problem with the belt, you need to check its condition and tension. Sometimes it temporarily helps to apply special rubber care compounds, which allow the surface of the belt to remain soft and elastic, protect against cracking, etc. If the tension is clearly weakened, the generator belt must be tightened, while simultaneously checking the condition of the pulleys and tensioner. Let us add that it is not recommended to tighten a strongly stretched belt, since the whistle will appear again after a short period of time. In this case, and also when it is not possible to further tighten the alternator belt, only replacement is indicated. If the belt is tensioned normally, does not slip on the pulleys, but still whistles, then it may be of poor quality and requires replacement. Let us also add that the cause of the whistle can be not only the belt, but also the generator itself. More precisely, problems may arise with the bearings of its drive. This is indicated by a characteristic rustling, whistling, and slight crackling sound when the engine is running at idle. The pump also makes a thin whistle at idle speed, and the problem may be accompanied by a rumbling or crackling sound. This symptom is a reason for mandatory inspection and replacement of this element. To check the generator and/or pump, you can take a block of wood, you can also attach a tin can to the end of a wooden stick, etc. Then one end of the bar or stick is applied to the drive area of the generator or pump with the engine running, and the other end of the bar or a tin can attached to the stick is brought to the ear. This solution allows you to more accurately determine the source of noise and localize the fault. By the way, if possible, instead of a homemade device for listening to noise, you can use a so-called car stethoscope (sometimes a medical one is also used).

If the source of the noise is not fully identified, then it is necessary to remove the generator belt, after which the pump or generator pulley is sharply turned by hand. The appearance of noise, difficulty during rotation, beating, play and other deviations from the norm will indicate a problem. In the case of a generator, the device can be repaired by replacing the bearings. It is recommended to change the pump immediately, since on many cars a jammed water pump leads to a broken timing belt.

We also recommend reading the article on how to check the pump on a car without removing it. From this article you will learn about ways to check the functionality of the water pump, as well as methods for independently determining malfunctions of this element of the engine cooling system. An additional reason to replace the pump is considered to be the appearance of antifreeze or antifreeze drips at the place of its installation. Coolant leaks pose a danger in the form of overheating of the internal combustion engine; a broken timing belt means that the piston hits the valves, causing the valves to bend. Ultimately, if these problems are ignored, the engine may require expensive or even major repairs.

Only the solenoid relay is activated

It happens that after turning the key, the engine does not start, while at the same time the driver hears only faint clicks that the solenoid relay makes, trying to move the bendix to the start position and close the electric motor.

Most drivers immediately think that the solenoid relay has failed, which means it must be replaced immediately. Next, the idea of burnt nickels and other problems that often occur when operating a car are put forward.

After installing the new solenoid relay, the starter begins to operate normally, starting the engine properly. But it turns out that the problem can often be solved faster and cheaper.

In many cases, simply tightening the contact nut between the solenoid relay and the starter motor is sufficient. Over time, due to oxidation, the ingress of liquid and dirt, the contact on it deteriorates and is not enough to start the electric motor, through the windings of which large currents flow. This repair will only take a few minutes and a suitable size key. When replacing the solenoid relay, this contact is simply cleaned and clamped tightly, as a result of which we achieve the desired effect, but we have to pay much more.

Signs of a car starter malfunction

A starter is a device that starts the engine when the key is turned in the ignition or the start button is pressed. During operation, the device wears out a lot and ultimately fails.

It is generally accepted that unsuccessful attempts to start the engine are the consequences of a discharged battery. In some cases this is true, and the battery is often discharged due to a malfunction of the generator. However, most often the problem lies with the starter.

When it fails, there are several warning signs.

First news of the problem

It is quite possible that the cause may be damaged wiring or a faulty ignition switch.

If when you turn the key in the ignition switch you hear a click and nothing else happens, then the reason for this may be a discharged battery or the starter itself.

I will not describe the device and principle of operation of the starter; full information on this topic can be studied in the picture below.

Problems with the starting system can be caused by poor maintenance or simply wear and tear. With many modern vehicles equipped with a start/stop button, the load on the starter and battery has increased significantly.

The starter continues to operate after the engine starts

When the engine starts and you release the ignition key, the power supply to the traction relay stops and the bendix returns to its original position under the action of a spring.

If power continues to flow, this most likely indicates soldering of the main contacts in the solenoid.

The first thing to do is exclude the battery and generator from the list of possible causes.

Don't forget that the starter only works properly if the battery is fully (or sufficiently) charged.

Therefore, if the engine does not start, try starting it from an external power source using special connecting wires or use a jump starter.

After a successful start, it becomes clear that the problem lies in the electrical system.

Source

Starter disassembly process

Remove the retractor;
Remove the front part of the starter;
We clean the starter rotor shaft, the “worm”, and the overrunning clutch itself.

Starter squealing after engine start

Let's try to understand this unpleasant situation, what can cause such an unpleasant sound and how to deal with it.

Let's talk about the last malfunction, since it caused the starter to squeal; it was enough to simply disassemble the starter and clean it. But first things first, I’ll try to show in the photo what to clean and where.

Bendix remains in this position, although under the force of the retractor spring it must hide

The photo shows that when I pulled the bendix out with a screwdriver, it remained in that position, although it should have jumped back. As a result, the Bendix comes out, the engine starts, it does not hide, it rotates at high speed and squeals, since it is not new. To solve the problem, I disassembled the starter:

Starter in the process of disassembly

The front part of the Golf 2 starter has been removed

Bendix isn't particularly clean either.

The dirt that was on the shaft and the bendix prevented the bendix from moving freely, so I decided to wash it. The Bendix itself was also washed in pure gasoline.

Let's try to understand this unpleasant situation, what can cause such an unpleasant sound and how to deal with it.

I hope that you are familiar with the principle of operation of a car starter and know what a bendix (overrunning clutch) is. In a nutshell, this is a special clutch that, after starting the engine, mechanically disconnects the starter from the engine, thereby leaving no opportunity for the flywheel to spin the starter and destroy it. The principle of operation of the overrunning clutch is the same as that of a regular bicycle - torque is transmitted to one side, and the gear rotates to idle on the other.

Starter malfunctions

When the starter does not work or works intermittently, starting the engine is very problematic and sometimes impossible. But before you start looking for the reasons why the starter does not turn, you need to remember that this unit works in tandem with other vehicle systems in a common starting-charging circuit (battery-start control mechanism-starter). Therefore, there can be both mechanical and electrical breakdowns, which have their own distinctive features. Each cause of the malfunction is determined by characteristic symptoms or as a result of testing.

Diagnostics

The first step is to determine the source of the sound. You can do this yourself, but in this case you need to clearly know the characteristic sounds of each mechanism. The easiest way is to ask a friend to start the car, and listen and determine the source yourself.

In 99% of cases, the malfunction lies in such elements of the engine compartment as:

3) Power steering.,

Bearings creaking

Typically, various bearings run for 100 thousand kilometers or more. However, over time, the lubricant inside them runs out and the elements begin to rub, making a creaking noise. These bearings don't last long. In winter, this worsens due to the loss of lubricating properties of the filler.

Whistling belts

Whistling belts are the most common cause of all of the above. This occurs due to their wear and tear, as well as temperature changes. Some spare parts manufacturers make drive belts from low-quality rubber, which quickly hardens in the cold.

Power steering

If it whistles for 3-4 seconds and then stops, this is normal. In the cold, the technical fluid also loses its fluidity, so for some time the pump operates with overload. However, if the power steering does break down, you should not do it yourself, as it is a very complex mechanism.

The principle of operation of the starter and its design

A starter is an electromechanical device that starts the engine by creating primary torque of the crankshaft at the required speed to create a compression ratio to ignite the combustible mixture.

If everything is in order electrically and the circuit is without damage, then it is worth dismantling the spare part for disassembly and detailed inspection in order to identify defects. But before doing this, you need to study the structure and principle of operation of a car starter.

Car starter device: 1. front cover; 2. bendix; 3. gearbox; 4. anchor; 5. stator housing assembly; 6. fork; 7. solenoid relay; 8. brush assembly; 9. brushes; 10. rear cover of the car starter.

When you turn the key and start the engine, the following processes occur:

Starter operating principle

The key in the ignition switch returns to its original position and the voltage at the control terminal disappears. Based on the considered diagram, we can make assumptions about possible problems at the appropriate stages.

Why does the starter whistle when starting the Priora?

Now let's get serious. A sound that ate the nerve cells of more than one thousand drivers, making them blush in front of boys and beautiful girls. That same squealing pig under the hood. And all this is he - Starter! The problem is known on most Lada Priora older than 4-5 years. This misfortune has not spared my Porch, although it seems to be used little and carefully. The treatment is quite simple, which is what this post will be about. First things first. Tools: — Ratchet — Socket head 13 — Socket head 8 — Curved screwdriver — Pliers Time — about 2 hours.

So. First of all, disconnect the “-” terminal from the battery. Next, remove the air filter housing along with the mass air flow sensor, having previously disconnected the connector from it. We see the following picture

To remove, first unscrew the wire end nut. Then unscrew the 3 nuts securing the starter itself. The photo shows 2. Third from the bottom. We remove the starter from the engine compartment.

Next, we unscrew the 2 clamping bolts of the starter housing and get to the gear mechanism, which is clearly not full of lubricant.

Next, I personally disassembled the starter down to the screw for prevention. In order not to bore you, I will leave a link to a detailed manual of which there are many on the Internet HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE STARTER

I took it apart to this extent.

After complete disassembly, wash out the old grease using gasoline or solvent. Particular attention to the gear mechanism and bendix. Well, bushings wouldn't be bad.

We carry out the assembly in the reverse order; you should be especially careful with the brush assembly. Lubricate all rubbing parts with grease. Personally, I recommend Chevron.

But I didn’t have it on hand, so I used Litol 24. The difference is small, but it is there.

We install it on the engine and enjoy the completely different sound of the starter. I was surprised how quietly it can work. Unfortunately there is no video. But take my word for it.

I am ready to answer all questions and suggestions both in comments and in private messages. I wish you all a smooth road and silence under the hood. Best regards, LadaRacing

The appearance of a squeal from the starter after turning the ignition key is an unpleasant problem, to say the least. However, like most other problems, it can be solved. And since the engine is still not a pig, you shouldn’t let it “squeal”, because the problem is quite serious, and if you postpone its solution “for later”, the cost of the solution will increase sharply.

Electrical causes of failure

When the starter does not turn the engine or turns it slowly, with insufficient power to start, then first of all it is worth checking the electrical circuit, starting from the battery:

It is worth paying attention to these malfunctions when the key is turned in the ignition switch, but the retractor does not work, and the armature does not rotate. If there is a break in the winding of the traction relay , as well as a short circuit between the turns or a short circuit to ground.

Electrical problems with the starter will also be indicated when the flywheel turns slowly.

And when there are no visible reasons, it is worth dismantling the part for inspection, because the collector may have burned out or its plates have shorted out. Although, of the possible reasons, the main one remains - the brushes are worn out or hanging.

Since typical starter malfunctions are:

Sometimes, the solenoid relay to the starter may burn out. There are 3 reasons why this happens:

Often such problems occur when water gets into the housing. Therefore, you will have to disassemble the retractor and check the condition of the contact plates and subsequently the windings. However, most often the problem with the relay is solved by replacing it.

Troubleshooting wires

Some drivers, in search of a malfunction, are in a hurry to remove the starter, but such hasty actions should not be taken, since often the problem of the engine not starting is due to wires, poor contacts or their absence. Here are the most typical defects:

low weight of the engine and body;
unreliable connection of the starter wires (plus of the rotor winding, main plus, power supply contact from the ignition switch to the solenoid relay (SR)).

If there is a bad ground on the engine, a sign of a defect will be a slight click on the first attempt to start, then all the instruments may go out, and with the next turns of the key any signs of “life” will disappear altogether (but not necessarily). Checking the presence of mass is quite simple, but the check needs to be done by two people:

one of the participants closes the mass terminal of the battery with the engine housing with a metal object (for example, a wrench or a cigarette wire);
the second person, sitting behind the wheel of the car, turns the key all the way to the right;
If there really was a bad ground, the starter will immediately start turning at normal speed.

You should also ensure the reliability of all fasteners on the starter; to do this, perform the following steps:

unscrew all the nuts on the starter, having previously removed the terminals from the battery;
wipe the joints and fasteners with a dry, clean rag;
treat contacts with WD-40;
tighten the nuts with the necessary force; do not overtighten, otherwise you may break the thread.

If the BP wire is connected using a connector, bend the tongue of the “chip”; here the connection should be tight.

When, after cleaning all contact parts, the engine starts, it means that the malfunction has been eliminated, and there is no need to find out what caused the defect. If nothing has changed for the better, then you should definitely check the starter; to do this, the unit will have to be dismantled.

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Mechanical problems

You can talk about the presence of any mechanical malfunctions if the starter works, but the engine does not start because the crankshaft does not rotate.

Parts to be checked:

One of the reasons why the starter does not rotate the crankshaft

When the starter is spinning, the engine may not start if :

When a grinding noise is heard during startup, such symptoms may indicate wear on the flywheel ring teeth. In this case, it is worth checking the gear travel adjustment and the condition of the buffer spring.

If you hear an atypical noise when the starter is operating , then it is worth inspecting it from the pit and engine compartment, since one of the following mechanical malfunctions of the starter may have occurred:

Burnt dimes are a common reason why a car cannot be started in the morning. Since quite often if the nickels are burnt, the starter does not turn on a cold engine . If you remove it and check the solenoid relay separately, then everything can work, but after installing it in place it continues to click and does not work. The solution looks like this:

Starter crackling sound when starting = expensive repairs? There is a cheap way!

When there is a metallic crackling sound upon startup, you cannot delay it. If you delay repairs, you may end up having to replace the flywheel. The cracking noise occurs due to ground teeth on the flywheel ring and teeth on the starter gear.

At the first symptoms of a metallic crackling sound when starting the engine, you can get by by replacing the starter guide bushing. A starter bushing costs no more than a hundred rubles, the main thing is to pay attention to the breakdown in time.

Removing the starter and replacing the bushing will cost much less than removing and replacing the flywheel. The flywheel is removed after removing the gearbox. Based on this, replacing the flywheel rim will be expensive and time consuming.

The rim is replaced when the rim is heated. If the rim is not installed correctly, there may be displacement, or the rim may burst.

The cause of the crackling noise may also be due to a faulty starter bendix. In any case, repairs must begin by removing the starter. The main thing is not to delay repairs!

What causes a tight clutch pedal?

A tight clutch pedal will not lead to anything good, and also affects wear and deformation of the flywheel! Many car owners, having noticed that the clutch pedal has become harder to move, continue to drive as if nothing had happened.

Having noticed that the clutch pedal has become worse, it is necessary to take appropriate measures. The most common occurrence is that the clutch fork becomes sour, the fork’s lubricant dries out, and more effort is required on the pedal. Sooner or later, the clutch pedal may fail and the fork may break off.

It is very easy to fix the problem by lubricating the clutch fork.

If the clutch disc is worn, replace the entire mechanism assembly, including the basket and release bearing.

Thank you for your interest! Don't be indifferent, leave your comments! Give a thumbs up if the article was interesting! Successful repairs and smooth roads!

Source

How to determine if the starter is faulty

You can quickly determine if the starter is malfunctioning based on its characteristic symptoms. The table below presents the most basic of them and indicates possible causes of breakdowns.

Symptom	Malfunction	Cause
Starter cranks	The planetary mechanism has failed	Water got inside and washed away the grease. As a result, the bushings and teeth of the planetary gear wore out. Incorrect adjustment of the fuel equipment of a diesel engine can lead to reverse impact of the ring gear on the Bendix drive gear.
Starter cranks	Bendix failed	Bendix springs sag
Starter clicks	Mass has disappeared on the body	Oxidation or breakage of the ground wire
	There is not enough starting current to operate the starter	The battery is discharged or shorted
	The brushes are worn out	Natural mechanical wear, brushes need to be replaced
	The solenoid relay is faulty	Burnt out winding or contact plates
	The anchor is out of order	The rotor laminae are worn out, a short-circuit to ground has occurred in the armature
The starter turns hard	Rotor bushings are worn out	Water got in, grease washed out
	Shorted the brush assembly to ground	Water has entered, brush assembly wear
	Stator winding shorted to ground	Water entered, the insulation of the stator winding was destroyed
	Armature winding short circuit	Water has entered, armature winding insulation is damaged
When starting the starter, a metallic grinding noise is heard	Bendix bushing worn out	Water got in, as a result, the grease was washed out or natural wear of the part occurred
	Seizures have formed on the flywheel crown
	The bushing on the bendix freewheel shaft is worn out
The starter works when cold, but clicks when hot	Solenoid relay malfunction	Solenoid relay core stuck
	The springs in the brush assembly have sagged	The springs have become hot due to long use and overheating of the starter.
	Bushings are worn out	Grease has washed out
	The contact area of the plates (nickels) has decreased	Burning nickels
	The minus on the brush assembly disappears	The contacts have oxidized and when heated, current stops flowing to them

The service life of the starter is about 70-200 thousand km and in order for it to serve your car for as long as possible, some preventative maintenance must be carried out periodically .

When it is necessary to check the starter as correctly as possible and subsequently repair it, it is recommended to study the technical characteristics of a specific model. The main ones are: rated voltage and its power, current consumption and torque generated, as well as shaft speed.

Frequently asked questions about starter faults

What could be the problem with the starter?

Faults can be electrical or mechanical. Electrical causes generally relate to a dead battery, wiring problems, loose or oxidized terminals. But the mechanical ones, the most common, are 5:

— the brushes are worn out; — the nickels were burnt; — the bushings are worn out; — breakage of the armature or stator windings; — the freewheel slips; — the drive of the screw thread of the armature shaft is stuck.

How do you know when it's time to replace the starter?

The starter, in general, can be repaired, but it should be replaced with a new one if the repair has been carried out more than once, and the following symptoms reappear:

— turning the key, the starter armature turns, but the crankshaft does not rotate; — after the engine starts, the starter continues to work; — a loud grinding noise is heard during startup; — when you repeatedly try to start, the starter “crackles”, whistles and may even crunch; — the starter does not work or only clicks and a distinct burning smell is heard (the winding is burned out).

What could happen if the starter does not turn?

First of all, the reason may be the battery or poor contact quality. So the most common reasons are:

- weak charge; — oxidation of battery terminals; — contact on the starter has worsened/weakened; - short circuit in the starter winding; — the retractor does not work.

Worn starter brushes - symptoms

You can understand that the brushes have worn out by the main sign - the starter does not work on the first try (clicking is heard, but the starter does not spin, but after 5-10 attempts it can still spin). Sometimes you even have to knock on the starter housing several times to “wake up” it. But you need to be careful with this, since the stator may not contain an excitation winding, but magnets - with such tapping, the pole magnets can be broken off.

Also, when the brushes are worn out, a slight knocking or cracking noise may be heard. Wear is also manifested by a characteristic burning smell and clicks of the retractor relay, but the starter does not start.

How to determine the wear of starter bushings?

If there are traces of the armature touching the stator winding (a distinct contact spot will appear), the starter bushings are worn out and it’s time to change them. If the bushings are not changed in time, the starter will begin to heat up and eventually the bakelite (which is used to process the winding wires) will melt. The result is an interturn, then a short circuit and combustion of the winding.

The starter hums, but does not turn the engine: causes and solutions

The only way to start a car engine is to crank the crankshaft with the starter (handle, tow, “pushing” does not count, especially on cars with an automatic transmission). If this unit is faulty, the machine will be immobilized.

From our material you will learn the reasons why the starter turns the engine poorly or slowly, how to find and eliminate them, and how to crank the engine by hand.

Despite the fairly simple design (electric motor, movable rod with drive gear and electromagnet), there are quite a few different breakdowns of this element. Each of them has its own symptoms.

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Why does the starter turn the engine poorly (slowly)?

The first and obvious reason is a dead battery. Even a working starter requires a lot of energy to spin the crankshaft, and a weak battery is not able to provide sufficient current.

It could also be a matter of poor contact, and as a result, high resistance in the starting circuit. Part of the current is spent overcoming resistance, and the starter does not turn the engine. It is necessary to check the resistance between the lead contact of the battery and the screw contact of the starter. The malfunction is easily fixed. You just need to clean the oxidized (dirty) contacts and treat them with a special lubricant to protect them from moisture.

If the contacts are OK but the resistance is still high, check the power wires. They become hot during operation and are susceptible to moisture. The copper threads of the harness can simply corrode, reducing the cross-section of the conductor and, accordingly, the resistance.

The starter may rotate the internal combustion engine slowly due to the fact that the engine oil is too thick. The symptoms are as follows: on a hot engine, starting without problems, on a cool engine - with great difficulty.

The starter does not turn on a hot engine

Again, poor contact may be to blame. When heated, the metal deforms slightly and the contact area decreases.

If the relay clicks and the starter motor does not turn, look for the cause in the brush assembly. Worn brushes can “hang” in the guides when heated. If you lightly tap on the body, performance is restored.

Rotor bushing play. It may move from its working position and jam when heated.

The starter works, but does not turn the engine

With this malfunction, it is not possible to diagnose the entire assembly at the same time, so we simply hear the noise of a rotating electric motor and conclude that it is working.

If the electric motor is running but the crankshaft does not rotate, it means there is no clutch with the flywheel gear. There are several reasons:

Mechanical wear of the Bendix gear. Checked visually. Cannot be repaired, only replaced.
The starter relay is burnt out. The contacts can be closed manually; if the retractor works, the reason has been found.
The retractor solenoid is burnt out. This is checked by directly applying power to the contacts.
The retractor solenoid works, but the bendix gear does not move. A possible reason is a mechanical failure of the Bendix fork.
The least likely cause is a broken starter shaft. But this problem also occurs.

The starter cannot crank the engine - we are looking for reasons sequentially

The fault is identified from simple to complex. We start with the supply voltage, contacts, wiring quality. Then we check individual nodes by connecting power directly. If the problem is not found, we diagnose the mechanical parts.

Then there remains a problem unrelated to the starter - the engine itself. Perhaps the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft.