A couple of months ago I noticed that at the beginning of the rotation of the steering wheel there was a slight knocking sound, at first it was the steering tips, because... The anthers have been torn for a long time, I bought new steering tips, at the same time a set of front and rear silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer links. The other day before replacing the above elements, I decided to check the steering cardan, just in case, and yes, it turned out that it was loose, but everything turned out to be wrong with the steering tips Fine. I bought a new original one and replaced it in an hour or two. It’s inconvenient, of course, to change it, but there were no difficulties, I removed it by hand, and even straightened the steering wheel straight away (before removing it, I made marks everywhere and transferred them to the new part).
Here you can see the difference, on the old one (from below) the grease was squeezed out through the O-rings and wear began to appear.
After the replacement, the knocking sound disappeared when turning the steering wheel, and it also became quieter when driving over uneven surfaces, but I will still change the rubber bands in the chassis, even though they look even worse
The steering crosspiece is the key to the control of the car; it is responsible for transmitting the rotation of the wheel to the rack and pinion assembly through the steering shaft cardan (the crosspiece itself is attached to it). Not just the ease of driving, but the safety and health of all passengers depends on its correct functioning. If the car has been in use for more than 100 thousand kilometers, it most likely needs repairs; it is worth studying in advance the question of when and how to change the crosspiece on the steering cardan.
Cross design
The mechanism of the steering shaft crosspiece performs a transport-guiding function and is designed to transmit the torque of the wheel to the gear of the rack and pinion assembly. The transmission of torque is carried out by the steering shaft cardan, to which the crosspiece is attached. In many models of modern cars, the crosspiece performs the same function and has a similar shape. The cross itself consists of four identical protrusions, each of which is equipped with needle-type bearings. All elements of the cross are made of high-strength steel and must withstand high loads.
Signs of wear on the crosspiece
Often, motorists do not pay attention to insignificant signs that it is time to make repairs, and wait until the problem makes itself known publicly and this is fraught with consequences, especially when it comes to loss of vehicle controllability.
The first signs of wear on the crosspiece appear as:
- the presence of noticeable resistance to the steering wheel when rotating at speeds above 80 km/h;
- delayed wheel turning and loss of sensitivity (delayed response of wheels and steering shaft);
- increased free play angle of the wheels (popularly this symptom is also called “Steering play”);
- uneven rotation of the steering wheel, the steering wheel moves with sharp jerks;
- obvious grinding or knocking noise that occurs when the steering wheel is rotated; the grinding becomes especially noticeable and obvious on an uneven road.
Most often, motorists turn to a car service center to replace the steering shaft crosspiece mechanism only when the last sign of a malfunction appears, but in vain, because in the event of an emergency, the steering control will not be able to adequately respond to the driver’s efforts, and sometimes, the steering control may even fail, this is already fraught with very big troubles.
Repair of the shaft cross is carried out every 50 - 100 thousand, it is better more often, otherwise it will have to be completely replaced with a new one.
To replace, you will need to purchase a crosspiece - on average 150-300 rubles, some car services claim that for the steering to work correctly, you need the entire steering shaft (4 - 7 thousand rubles), but on most cars it is enough to change only the crosspiece.
Self-replacement procedure for the steering shaft crosspiece
The replacement takes place in several stages:
- We lift the car off the ground using a lift or by rolling it into a hole, but you can also get by by lifting the front of the car.
- We set the steering wheel at a right angle and fix it, and also fix the steering wheel; during replacement, movement of the wheels and steering wheel is not desirable.
- To access the steering shaft, remove the left (right) wheel. We go into the salon and unscrew the fastening bolt; after a slight effort, the steering shaft should come off the steering wheel.
- Under the car, carefully remove the upper and lower casings, check the amount of dirt on the crosspiece and steering shaft driveshaft; not all cars have them protected by a boot (purchase and installation of such rubber will cost 100-200 rubles).
- We find and unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece; you may have to use a WD tool. Once the bolt is removed, the steering shaft should easily come off the steering rack.
- Pull the shaft down and pull it out. Often the crosspiece mechanism is rusty and dirty; first of all, you will need to wash it.
- For flaring you will need a sprocket of the appropriate diameter; fix the shaft in a vice.
- Using a head (presumably a 8-pointer), we knock out the cross first in one direction (remove the bearing cup), and in the other direction (also remove the cup).
- Then we take a new crosspiece and insert it in the same order - we start one side first, and then the other, press it in using a vice (but not too tightly, the metal may wrinkle).
- We align both cups and roll them with a chisel and hammer.
The final assembly procedure is no different from disassembly - the main thing is to maintain order. So, we have replaced the steering shaft crosspiece; if everything is done correctly, the handling will respond better to your efforts.
The steering crosspiece is the key to the control of the car; it is responsible for transmitting the rotation of the wheel to the rack and pinion assembly through the steering shaft cardan (the crosspiece itself is attached to it). Not just the ease of driving, but the safety and health of all passengers depends on its correct functioning. If the car has been in use for more than 100 thousand kilometers, it most likely needs repairs; it is worth studying in advance the question of when and how to change the crosspiece on the steering cardan.
Steering wheel tuning on Lada Granta
There are few options for upgrading the steering wheel on the Lada Granta. The most popular of them is installing a sports version. Such a steering wheel will not only make the interior more attractive, but will also increase the comfort of control, especially if it is selected correctly. You can install a multi-steering wheel, but only if the configuration is maximum, in other cases there will be nothing to control with its help.
The sports version must be injury-proof, that is, in the event of an accident it must be deformed without causing damage to the driver. Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that although there is an airbag in the standard steering wheel, the sports one does not have it. You can also modify the steering wheel by installing braid. More advanced ones install a heating thread under it.
To install the sports steering wheel, you will need to carry out the following operations.
- Align the front wheels straight (you can drive a little forward and back so that the trajectory is straight).
- Disconnect the battery terminals by de-energizing the vehicle's on-board network.
- The airbag control module must be disabled (if the Granta equipment is equipped with it). If you do not turn it off when removing the factory steering wheel, it may shoot out.
- Remove the steering wheel and install a horn on the adapter. The wiring must be stored in the adapter; to do this, carefully inspect all contacts.
- Connect the adapter to the shaft, but do not secure it with a nut.
- A sports steering wheel is installed on the adapter and secured with special screws.
You cannot throw away or sell the factory product; the sports version will raise questions when passing inspection.
How do you know when it's time to change the driveshaft?
Signs of its malfunction are noticeable, but have little effect on the quality of movement, which is why many car owners ignore the problem until the last moment, almost to the point of losing control of the car. You should not ignore signs of a malfunction; if at least two appear at once, you need to immediately carry out diagnostics. What are the signs of wear or breakage?
- When driving at a speed of more than 80 km/h, the steering wheel resists when turning, making it more difficult to turn.
- The steering wheel turns unevenly and jerks when turning, which puts additional stress on the hands.
- The steering wheel has become less sensitive, and the turning of the wheels responds to control late.
- The appearance of noticeable play (free movement of wheels with stable fixation of the steering wheel).
- Vibration of the driveshaft. Check with a tachometer to see if this vibration appears at one speed or at different speeds. Only vibration at different speeds indicates problems with the cardan; if it occurs at different speeds, but at the same frequency, then you need to think about how to change the steering cardan on a grant, because the speed of the cardan was different at that time.
- Knocking and grinding noises in the steering wheel, especially when driving on rough roads.
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How to change the steering cardan
- It is better to roll the car into a pit (at least raise it in front of the car).
- Fix the steering wheel and steering wheel at a right angle. You should also not move or touch the wheels during repairs.
- Remove the front wheel, then unscrew the mounting bolt through the interior. If all operations are carried out correctly, the shaft should come off the steering wheel on its own.
- Remove both casings (top and bottom), make sure there is a boot on the steering shaft. If it is not there, it is better to install it after repair; the part costs no more than 200 rubles.
- Unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece, then the shaft will come off the steering rack on its own.
- Pull down and pull out the shaft. Before repairing, it is better to wash it from dirt and rust; it also affects the quality of movement.
- Secure the shaft in a vice. When it is secured, take the head and knock out the cross on one side to remove the bearing cup. Repeat the same action from the other end.
- Insert a new cross in the same order (one at a time on each side).
- Press in a new crosspiece with a vice (do not overpress).
- Align the cups and roll them with a hammer and chisel.
- Install the new part on the car in reverse order.
Many car owners note when they are looking for where and how to change the steering joint on a Toyota that steering crosspieces from the VAZ-2015 are very suitable for this brand. This greatly simplifies the process of finding parts and reduces the overall cost of repairs.
Diagnostics, repair and reassembly
Before determining why there is a knock in the steering, you should completely disassemble the rack and carry out diagnostics for wear, destruction of components and connections. Disassembly is carried out in this order. Secure the steering rack in a vice, having previously installed spacers made of soft metal or other material. Unscrew the nut securing the mechanism crankcase pipe. The crankcase tube is removed. Remove the clamps securing the pipe bushings and remove them.
Unscrew the adjusting nut. Here you need to use a special 24mm wrench, which has external edges for unscrewing. Sequentially remove the rack stop spring, the sealing ring and the rack stop. Remove the crankcase cover. After removing the bearing cage and sealing ring, remove the rack. The second element of the steering mechanism pair - the gear shaft - is dismantled.
Now you can diagnose the condition of the bearings and sealing rings. After thorough cleaning, the wear of the gear sectors and the condition of the surface of the rack and shaft are assessed. After all, this is where the reason lies that causes the knocking that appears. If necessary, select the necessary parts and replace them.
Before reassembly, all critical connections are lubricated with a special compound. Very often, it is the insufficient amount of lubricant that leads to rapid wear of loaded parts, which violates the previously established clearance. Therefore, even a recently installed rack knocks again.
Assembling the steering mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. For correct and easy installation of dismantled bearings, you should select the required diameter of pipe cutting, which will help to correctly install the bearings in place. The assembled steering mechanism must be adjusted, since the size of the gap can also determine whether a knock will appear after reinstallation.
Why might the driveshaft break?
The most common reason is constant use of the car on uneven roads, driving over potholes and ruts. During such shaking, a large load falls on this moving part.
The second reason may be oil leakage due to a leaking oil seal. Because of the oil, the sealing ring https://podshipnik-mo.ru/koltsa-uplotnitelnyye hardens, and a gap appears between the oil seal and the rod. Or the mirror on the driveshaft connection is broken, and various roughness and burrs appear on the rod. In this case, the splines will have to be changed or sanded (but this is a temporary remedy).
We noticed that when driving on uneven roads (for example, gravel), vibration is strongly transmitted to the steering wheel. It is also possible that a knock may occur, but it is not the steering rack that is rattling. The cause of the rattling may be play in the steering shaft. It is proposed to solve the problem with the help of a simple modification, which was used on VAZ 2108-15 cars.
Knocking and rattling noises appear due to gaps in the mating parts. To eliminate them, insert a rubber cube (dimensions 22x22x22 mm) into the universal joint of the intermediate steering shaft. It is cut out from the rubber bumper of the rear suspension of the “classic”.
To install the rubber part into the steering shaft, you don’t need to remove anything, just crawl under the panel and look for the connection above the brake pedal. To fit the cube into a narrow space, you will need to lubricate it (for example, WD-40) and use a clamp or jack.
For owners of Lada Granta and Kalina models with ESD, there is an alternative to this modification - install a steering driveshaft without knocking (catalog numbers: 11186-3422092-00, 21230-3401085-00). Let us remind you that in some cases the causes of knocking can be eliminated by tightening the steering rack or steering shaft bolt. Have you encountered such a modification? What effect did you feel after installing the rubber cube?
Power steering and power steering: do-it-yourself installation
The electric booster first appeared on Kalina, then on Grant and on the new Priora. You can drive a car without an ESD. But if a car owner previously owned a car equipped with a hydraulic or electric booster, then, at a minimum, he will experience great inconvenience. On the Lada Granta in the minimum configuration, the manufacturer does not install electric power steering, so many owners of such cars decide to install the power steering themselves. This procedure is not the easiest, and the unit is not cheap. But its presence means a comfortable ride, maneuverability and safety.
Installation does not require any special knowledge or skills; minimal experience and a set of tools are sufficient. If, nevertheless, the question arose about installing electric power steering on the Lada Granta, then when purchasing an electric power steering unit, you should pay attention to its number.
The set of numbers contains a definition of the place of production, these are the last two digits:
- 00 – made in Makhachkala (not the highest quality, has many negative reviews);
- 04 – Korean amplifier, you can buy it in a store, a rare copy at auto wrecking yards;
- 02 – made in Kaluga, a good medium option.
To install the amplifier you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers and an angle grinder (grinder). Before proceeding with installation, the steering wheel, all steering column switches, the ignition switch, and the steering column with cardan must be removed. The further algorithm of actions is as follows.
- Knock out the bolts from the removed bracket in the form of a plate and cut off about 3 cm from the top with a grinder.
- Drill holes in the plate to mount the electric amplifier.
- Fix the cardan to the EUR.
- Place washers under the bracket (where the electric booster is mounted), and you can use them to adjust the steering wheel.
- Attach the electric booster, and then install the cardan into the rack.
