Steering device VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, Lada Ten

Steering system and its replacement

The steering system of a car is very important for ensuring safety while driving. If any problems occur, it is recommended that you take it very seriously and correct the problem as quickly as possible. Replacing the steering column of a VAZ 2110 requires quite a lot of painstaking work to solve this problem, however, with all the necessary tools and some skills, you can fix the damage. The steering column of the VAZ 2110 can be easily repaired with your own hands.

Signs of steering rack defects, dozens and pre-repair preparation

A sign indicating problems in the steering mechanism, and most likely in the rack, is a knocking sound in the steering mechanism. It manifests itself when driving on a bumpy road surface, where the road is replete with potholes, holes and bumps from uneven soil or expanding asphalt. This creates a feeling in the car user that this knock is heard directly into the steering column. If such sounds occur in the steering system, it is necessary to diagnose it.

At this stage of identifying a defect, it is too early to conclude that the VAZ steering rack, the price of which is quite high for the average car enthusiast, requires repair or replacement. To clarify the “diagnosis” of the car, it is necessary to conduct a personal visual inspection of the area where the steering shaft is connected to the rack. To do this, you need to try to move the steering gear shaft with vertical jerks using your hand at the mounting point of the steering system components.

If knocking noises appear when moving up and down, then the car needs to be serviced. As a rule, such a knock is produced by a needle bearing that did not receive its portion of lubricant in time. An alternative to the knocking noise can be a weak fastener of the steering wheel bushing with the gear. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the fastening of the parts.

When the cause of the malfunction is established, the car owner decides on the need to replace or repair this important element of the steering mechanism. On our website there is a video on servicing the steering rack of a VAZ 2110, which demonstrates the procedure for repairing and replacing a part by a car chassis specialist

Reassembly

If you have selected a new steering element suitable for your VAZ 2110, there should be no problems with reassembly.

In this case, it is very important to turn the turn signal switch ring so that the pin on the wheel hub fits into the groove of the ring. This ring will return the turn signals to their original position when the car exits a bend or turn.

Otherwise, simply follow the dismantling instructions, working in reverse order. This will allow you to install the new element that you have chosen for yourself without any problems. To be more precise, for your car.

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Replacing steering shaft bearings VAZ 2110 1996

1. Disconnect the wire from the “–” terminal of the battery.

2. Remove the steering wheel (see subsection 5.3.1).

3. Loosen the bolt securing the base of the steering column switches and slide the base towards you.

4. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor.

5. Disconnect the two connectors with the horn wires from the contacts on the base and remove the base of the steering column switches.

6. Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to position I to unlock the steering shaft.

7. Disconnect the ignition switch wire block from the wiring harness. If the ignition switch wires are connected to the wiring harness with a clamp, cut or loosen the clamp.

8. The steering column is secured with bolts with break-away heads (the same as the ignition switch). If new bolts with breakaway heads are not available, you can replace them with regular M6 bolts 20 mm long.

9. Unscrew two nuts and two bolts with break-away heads, remove spring and special washers. If the bolt heads are stripped, the bolts must be drilled out or removed using a screwdriver and hammer.

10. Remove the steering column from the studs, slide it towards you and lower it down. Then remove the bolt securing the propeller shaft to the steering shaft.

11. Remove the bolt and remove the column assembly, while removing the thrust bushing from the shaft. 12. Press the steering shaft along with the bearing out of the pipe. It is recommended to press the shaft towards the steering wheel mounting.

13. Remove the front (steering wheel side) bearing from the shaft.

14. Replace the steering shaft if the splines or threads are worn or damaged.

15. Using light hammer blows and a drift, press the rear bearing out of the steering bracket pipe.

16. Before installing the bearings, check that they rotate easily and without jamming. The plastic bearing bushings must not be damaged.

17. Press the rear bearing all the way into the pipe collar using a suitable mandrel, applying force only to the outer race of the bearing. The bearing is mounted on a plastic bushing, which has a wide flange on one side. When installing the bearing, it is the wide flange of the bushing that must be directed outward.

18. Slide the front bearing onto the shaft with the wide flange of the bearing bushing facing the end of the shaft.

19. Insert the shaft into the pipe. In this case, the rear end of the shaft should enter the rear bearing.

20. Press the front bearing all the way into the pipe collar using a suitable mandrel, applying force only to the outer race of the bearing.

21. Install the steering column in the reverse order of removal. Install the thrust bushing on the shaft with the side with the larger diameter.

22. Install special washers for the bracket fastening bolts with their protruding part a in the opposite direction from the bolt head.

23. When installing the base of the steering column switches, before tightening the bolt securing it, adjust the position of the base on the steering column. To do this, install the lower casing and move the base so that the screw holes in the casing and the base match. After this, carefully remove the casing and tighten the base bolt. Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal.

Assembly procedure

We begin repairing the VAZ-2110 steering rack by installing the needle bearing of the drive gear. The seat is first generously lubricated with a special lubricant such as “Fiol-1”. After this, we press a new ball bearing onto the drive gear shaft. Next, install the support sleeve from the repair kit inside the control unit housing. Now we fill the inner cavity of the column with lubricant and insert the steering rack into it.

We mount the drive gear and secure it with a locking ring and nut. We put a new boot on its shaft.

We install the stop with the seal in place, secure it with a stopper and a thrust nut. That's basically it. Now you need to adjust the control unit and put the protective cover on it.

What is needed to replace the steering rack of a VAZ 2110

To replace the old rack with a new VAZ 2110 we will need: WD-40 fluid, a vice, a puller for removing the tips or a hammer, an open-end wrench “13”, “22”, “19”, a socket wrench with a head “13” , “17”, “22”, chisel and screwdriver, pry bar, jack, new steering rack.

You should pay attention to the fact that the VAZ 2110 power steering steering rack with the article number (21100340001030) costs much more. When buying a new rack, it is more profitable to take the rack assembled so that there are rod ends, etc., and it is better to choose a new part when you have the old one on hand

The price of a standard rack for a VAZ 2110 with article number (21100340001200) will be about 2,500 rubles, and an improved version with power steering costs 15,000 rubles.

The cost of spare parts is indicated for spring 2022 in Moscow and the region.

Choosing a high-quality steering wheel for the VAZ 2110

Of course, every car comes with its own steering wheel from the factory. Cars of the VAZ 2110 series are no exception.

However, the appearance, level of comfort and tactile sensations sometimes leave much to be desired. The rim often wears out quickly, the surface becomes smooth, which interferes with normal control.

Factory solution

We carry out repairs

Remember that this unit is a rather “delicate” and fragile mechanism.

under the octagonal nut of the stop there is a spring that needs to be removed;

then remove the retaining ring, which is located under the specified spring;

lightly tap the wooden spacer to tap the rack stop out of the crankcase (note that there is a rubber sealing ring in the groove of the stop);

Next you need to remove the front shield seal;

• under the seal there is a boot, which is also removed (you can use a screwdriver that has a wide and thin blade);
• behind the boot there is a locking ring, which is also removed;

Using a 24mm octagonal head, unscrew the gear bearing mounting nut and remove the nut from the shaft;

we press out the shaft from the gear together with the bearing using a 14mm wrench, which we rest on the mounting blade; the shaft can be clamped in cleats;

Diagnosing the malfunction

Like any other mechanism, the steering rack fails sooner or later.

A similar mechanism is present in any car, both equipped with electric and hydraulic booster and without it.

Muffled sounds and impacts can be felt when driving over uneven surfaces, and can also be transmitted to the steering wheel.

The malfunction manifests itself in a similar way when the car is stationary and the steering wheel is turned.

When turning the steering wheel, a significantly increased force may still be observed.

These main symptoms indicate that the steering rack needs to be repaired, no matter what brand of car they appeared on: VAZ 2110 or another model.

To determine the state of this node, we do the following.

Grasp the steering shaft where it meets the rack.

Jiggle it up and down. If a knocking noise occurs, this is evidence that either repair of the steering rack housing will be necessary, or a possible cause of the knocking may be a lack of lubrication in the so-called needle bearing.

Cotton steering wheel and how to deal with it

The design of front-wheel drive VAZ cars corresponds both to its price niche and partly to its purpose. An average car for economical travel over average distances at average speed. Know-how of the 80s of the Soviet automobile industry, the MacPherson suspension coupled with rack and pinion looked like something perfect in the early 80s. Although, in fact, the long-travel steering rack 2108 and the classic MacPherson of the 1948 model are not the most progressive solution even for a cheap car.

Compared to classic VAZ models, rear-wheel drive, with a classic steering mechanism and double-wishbone front suspension, the 2110 has more sluggish and imprecise handling. In a word, a wadded steering wheel. It won’t take long to figure out why this happened. Elementary geometry - MacPherson does not hold the car well in turns and during acceleration and braking, and the steering had a long stroke and an unsuccessful upper rack location. Hence the looseness of the steering wheel. It is technically inherent and cannot be cured by any settings or adjustments.

Video tutorial on repairing a VAZ steering rack

However, since the 2000s, a slightly improved design of the power steering rack has been used. There wasn’t enough for everyone at once, because first of all, cars with hydraulic booster were exported. Later, when Europe was full of Zhiguli cars, cars with power steering began to appear more often. But the hydraulic booster did not save the situation. And that's why.

REPAIR OF INPUT SHAFT

REPAIR OF INPUT SHAFT

The 5th gear synchronizer assembly with the drive gear, the rear bearing of the input shaft and its mounting plate were removed from the input shaft during the disassembly of the gearbox. This subsection describes the removal and installation of other parts of the input shaft.

You will need a circlip remover.

1. Remove the 4th gear drive gear from the needle bearing.

2. Remove the 4th gear blocking ring from the synchronizer.

3. Remove the 4th gear drive gear needle bearing from the shaft journal.

4. Separate the ends of the retaining ring securing the synchronizer hub for 3rd and 4th gears...

5. ...remove the ring...

6. ...and remove the synchronizer assembly from the 3rd gear drive gear from the shaft.

7. Disconnect the synchronizer and gear...

8. ...and remove the third gear blocking ring from the synchronizer.

9. Carefully move the 3rd gear needle bearing cage apart...

WARNING

Do not spread the bearing cage further than necessary to remove it from the shaft to avoid cage breakage.

10. ...and remove the bearing from the shaft.

11. Inspect the input shaft and its parts:

– the journals for needle bearings should not have signs of fatigue damage, the slots for installing the synchronizer coupling should not have nicks or collapse;

– the teeth of the drive gears of 1st, 2nd gears and reverse gears, made integral with the shaft, should not have severe wear and chipping. If they are damaged, replace the input shaft;

– the synchronizer hub must not have nicks or signs of wear;

– the ends of the synchronizer coupling splines and blocking rings must not be jammed or chipped;

– when installing the synchronizer blocking ring on the cone of the corresponding gear, the gap between the ends of the ring and the gear ring must be at least 1 mm. Otherwise, the locking ring must be replaced.

12. Assemble the secondary shaft in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following:

– when pressing on the synchronizer hub, make sure that the crackers fall into the grooves of the third gear blocking ring;

–after assembling the input shaft, check the rotation of all gears: they should rotate freely.

NOTE

The 5th gear synchronizer assembly with the drive gear is installed on the input shaft during the gearbox assembly process.

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Step-by-step replacement of the steering column

Having decided to replace the steering column on a VAZ-2106 yourself, you need to stock up on free time and patience, and experts recommend performing this step in stages:

1. The steering shaft, which is clamped in the column, should be carefully removed.
2. Using a size 30 wrench and a long wrench, you should try to rip off the connecting nut that secures the steering column. It is not always possible to remove the fasteners the first time, but since this stage is mandatory, you have to return to it several times.
3. The three fasteners that connect the column to the car body are unscrewed. It is most convenient to use a so-called ratchet for this process, since the bolts are not so easy to get to with a regular wrench.
4. After unscrewing all the fasteners, you need to free the column from the tie rod splines, which continue to hold the assembly. To do this, you should pry the structure with a pry bar and try to knock it down with sharp jerks.
5. After dismantling the unit, it is necessary to check the condition of the boot and oil seal; if even minor damage is detected during a visual inspection, these components must be replaced. By installing a new boot, the life of the bearing and shaft will be extended, and the new oil seal will not allow automotive lubricant to leak out of the steering column.

If all components are installed correctly, the car owner will replace the failed elements with high-quality and reliable ones, and the steering column will have a long service life.

To simplify the assembly process, experts recommend putting all the removed elements from the car in strict sequence, so that when assembling the structure, you don’t confuse anything and repeat the whole process again.

As you can easily see, the process of replacing the steering column of a VAZ-2106 is not that complicated, so every car owner can do it if he has the strength and patience and, of course, does all the work step by step. But if difficulties still arise when replacing a car element, it’s time to use the hint, which at a convenient time can be found in the video instructions on the Internet resource. The educational video lesson is conducted by qualified specialists who understand the intricacies of car repair and present their visitors with extremely effective and most necessary advice on the topic of interest to them.

Reasons that lead to rapid wear of the steering wheel

Replacing the steering wheel and removing the steering wheel

The process of replacing the steering block can be considered complete. In order to avoid the need to replace this part in the future, you need to know the causes of the steering column malfunction and try to prevent them. Among the reasons are the following:

• Creaking in the steering column. The cause of the squeak may be wear of the elements, malfunction of parts of the steering column joystick unit, or deformation of the facing panels;
• Play in the steering column is a more serious sign. Play in the steering wheel area may indicate that the spline joints are loose.

With a competent approach and high-quality installation of all elements, the steering column can last quite a long time without replacement.
Loosening of the nuts and bolts of the connections can cause free play, and over time, abrasion of the splines. As a result, the column fails precisely because the connections cannot function correctly. This video will help you do everything correctly. It is also recommended to use visual aids, such as photographs or pictures, during the work process. There is no need to doubt the result, because you can do a lot with your own hands. It is important to do everything as required by the instructions. Thus, you can save a lot of money, because the price for services of this kind in the services is very high.

Checking the oil level in the steering column on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Welcome! Steering column - thanks to it, both front wheels of a rear-wheel drive car of the “Classic” family are turned. In order for the steering wheel to rotate well and with little effort, the steering column is constantly lubricated with oil located inside it. But like any other oil, the oil inside the steering column disappears over time, and therefore its level must be constantly monitored and topped up whenever possible. You can find out how to check the oil level below.

Note! To check the oil level in the steering column, you will need to take: “8” wrenches, and also, just in case, take with you a funnel, clean oil and a brush or just a rag!

Where is the steering column located? Most likely, you have already seen where the steering column is installed, and more than once, because it is located in almost the most visible place, namely in the engine compartment of the car, on the left side (Indicated by a red arrow), and just above the steering column is the main brake cylinder on the photo indicated by the blue arrow.

Toyota. Officials. I am begging you.

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And now without the lyrics 1. The intermediate shaft was replaced at the Toyota dealership. In the process, 2 days were lost, I had to drive with a faulty steering mechanism, the steering wheel position sensor was ruined and fixed, and not a penny was spent. 2. T-center specialists previously diagnosed the condition of the intermediate shaft and assigned it to replacement, but they did not seem to be interested in the general condition of the suspension and steering. 3. The center's staff seems to be the same as everywhere else. Depending on your luck. But they admit their mistakes and correct them. 4. I wish everyone to have the contact details of a good professional, which saves a lot of time, money and nerves.

Good luck on the roads!

1. They replaced the intermediate shaft free of charge - did that make you feel any worse?? Most likely (I don’t remember if the broom has vgrs or not) they didn’t set the steering wheel position after replacing the shaft - the sensor was missing - they also replaced it for free 2. It wasn’t Toyota specialists who damaged the intermediate shaft, but the manufacturer, as there were problems with it (I’ll assume, for example, that the steering wheel bites when turning), the chassis will be looked at for a fee, but during the service campaign no one will do this - why do free work?? 3. what other staff could there be?? I forgot in which country (it seems like you’re writing about Russia). 4. I agree with this.

Did I mention I'm in the red??

Steering column for VAZ 2110 do-it-yourself repair

steering adjustment

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift.

Using pliers, remove the cotter pin... ...and use a 22mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the middle link to the pendulum arm. Using a fork puller, we press the middle thrust ball pin out of the hole in the pendulum arm of the Niva 2131. The pin can also be pressed out by applying a sharp blow from below (near the hinge) with a chisel with a blunt end to the pendulum arm. Remove the ball pin from the eye of the pendulum arm.

Similarly, we press the ball pin of the VAZ 2131 rod out of the bipod.

Remove the middle link.

Install the middle link in the reverse order.

The left hinge pin (inserted into the bipod hole), in addition to rotation, can swing (unlike the right one).

At the same time, when installing the VAZ 2121 on a car, we orient it so...

...so that its longitudinal axis is in front of the Niva 2131 hinge axes.

Checking and adjusting the steering of VAZ 2121, Niva 2131

• – Steering gear adjustment
• – Replacement of side rod
• – Removing and installing the middle link
• – Replacement of steering tips
• – Assembling and disassembling the lever bracket
• – Removing and installing the steering wheel
• - Steering column
• – Replacement of the steering mechanism
• – Steering bipod

Steering design of VAZ 2121, VAZ 2131

Features of the Niva 2121 steering device. Adjusting the steering column, eliminating knocks in the Niva 2131 steering mechanism.

• 
  DIY steering repair design
• Check and adjustment
  Steering adjustment, inspection and maintenance

NIVA / 2121, 2131 / repair / steering / checking and adjustment / Removing and installing the middle link

Withdrawal procedure

1. Before starting work, disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Now you need to loosen the bolt securing the base of the steering column switches. Slide it towards you. 4.Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor. 5. Disconnect the 2 horn wire connectors. Remove the base of the steering column switches.

6. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to position I to unlock the steering shaft.

7. Disconnect the block with wires from the ignition switch.

8. The steering column is secured with bolts with break-away heads. If you do not have the same bolts in stock, they can be replaced with M6 bolts 20 mm long.

9. Unscrew 2 nuts and 2 bolts, remove washers. 10. Remove the steering column from the studs, slide it towards you and lower it down. Unscrew the bolt securing the steering shaft to the propeller shaft. 11. Remove the bolt and remove the steering column by removing the thrust bushing from the shaft. 12. Press the steering shaft out of the pipe along with the bearing. Press the shaft towards the steering wheel mounting. 13. Remove the front bearing from the shaft.

14. If the steering shaft has worn or damaged splines or threads, replace it.

15. Using a hammer or drift, press the rear bearing out of the steering bracket pipe.

16. Before installing the bearings, check them for damage.

17. Press the rear bearing into place. You need to press it all the way into the pipe collar. Apply force only to the outer ring of the bearing. When installing the bearing, the wide flange of the bushing should face outward.

18. Place the front bearing onto the shaft. The wide flange of the bearing bushing should face the end of the shaft.

19. Insert the shaft into the pipe so that the rear end of the shaft fits into the rear bearing.

20. Press the front bearing into the pipe collar until it stops.

21. Install the steering column in the reverse order. The thrust bushing is installed on the shaft with the side with the larger diameter.

22. Install special washers for the bracket fastening bolts with the protruding part “a” in the opposite direction from the bolt head. 23. When installing the base of the steering column switches, before tightening the bolt securing it, adjust the position of the base on the steering column. To do this, install the lower casing and move the base so that the screw holes in the casing and the base match. After this, carefully remove the casing and tighten the base bolt. Install the steering wheel in reverse order.

Source

Diagnosis of steering problems dozens

Every car has weaknesses. For VAZ 2110, this is the tie rod end. This part is an integral part of the car's steering system. The tie rods on the tenth generation VAZ end with tie rod ends. Rods are rarely changed, but tie rod ends must be replaced every 40 thousand kilometers of the car.

But this is an average and approximate figure. The service life of the steering tip depends on the driving style of the car owner and the conditions in which the car is operated.

Any driver of a vehicle can notice a problem with the steering. The main signs of the need to replace steering tips on a VAZ 2010 are as follows:

• difficulty driving, especially when turning;
• strong noise and knocking from one or both sides in the front, more pronounced when turning;
• The tread on the tires wears unevenly.

In the latter case, most likely the problem is not only with the tips. It is necessary to diagnose the front suspension as a whole. Perhaps replacing the tie rod end won't do the trick.

The steering tips in the VAZ 2110 car are a hinged joint. Wear in the tip joint leads to a malfunction in the steering. You can check the steering tips on the VAZ 2110 yourself.

First of all visually. To inspect the tip on the left side of the car, you need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right; to inspect the right steering tip, turn the steering wheel to the left.

You should pay attention to the rubber boot that protects the tie rod end. If it is torn or cracked, then it is time to replace the tips.

Through the hole in the boot, dust and dirt enter the hinge, which leads to faster wear of the steering tip.

To carry out the second stage of diagnosis, it is necessary to jack up one of the sides of the car so that the wheel is freely suspended in the air. Tug the tip with your hand, if there is any play, then you need to replace the steering tip. The tips should be changed on both sides. It is not worth saving and changing one tip; it is better to save on the services of a service station technician and carry out the replacement procedure yourself.

Steering gear UAZ loaf, design and operation

There is a mechanism in the car that was invented at the very beginning of the automotive industry - this is a steering gear.

The main purpose of this mechanism is the same as that of the well-known power steering, namely, to help the driver turn the steering wheel, compensating for the resistance of the wheels.

This mechanism is made as a separate unit of the steering system. It consists either of gears or is presented in the form of a worm shaft.

Operating mechanism and gearbox design

UAZ steering gear design

This text will be devoted to the general principle of operation of the gearbox, and analysis of this mechanism using a specific example, namely the famous car “UAZ 469” or, as it is also called, “loaf”.

Let's start with the fact that the vast majority of gearboxes, if not all, are made of solid cast iron and welded with steel. The use of these particular materials gives the necessary parameters of rigidity and strength to this mechanism, due to the specifics of its design.

Beneath the sealed cast iron are fairly simple transmission elements: gears, shafts, bearings, belts, gears, etc. It is also possible to have configurations that provide for the location of the lubricating element inside the mechanism.

It is included in the complete set of absolutely all modern cars with a gearbox system on the steering wheel, including the UAZ 469 (loaf). These systems involve transmitting torque using a worm gear, consisting mainly of a special worm screw and a toothed worm wheel.

The so-called “worm” installed in the UAZ 469 gearbox is made as a cast part from the strongest alloy.

Outwardly, it looks like the core of a well-known meat grinder, but speaking in terms, the thread on the worm is made in a trapezoidal shape.

Gear wheels for gearboxes of such power as in the UAZ 469 loaf are made of durable materials, usually either cast iron, which does not break under great force, or a durable steel alloy, of which the core is made.

The teeth are made from special anti-friction materials of increased strength.

Worm gears are most effective in machines where we expect high torque combined with low angular velocity.

Advantages and disadvantages of steering gear

The advantages of the UAZ 469 gearbox include four factors:

1. Self-braking;

High subordinate ratio coefficient, despite the fact that only two parts are used;

Quite a small noise level created during operation of the mechanism; Smooth ride.

UAZ steering gear diagram

Also, a significant advantage of a worm-type gearbox, when compared with a gear reducer, is that the contact between the links is carried out along the entire length of the line, and not at one point, like with a gear. Also a huge plus is the compactness of the worm mechanism, despite the fact that the gear ratio is identical for both systems.

As for the disadvantages, they are quite significant:

1. This gearbox has a high level of wear;
2. It generates a large amount of heat due to the high friction force of the parts;
3. The mechanism jams quite often;
4. It also produces relatively low efficiency.

In order for the mechanism to jam less and wear out less, it must be constantly adjusted, cared for, and all nuances must be observed during assembly.

However, even in this case, it will not be possible to completely get rid of the shortcomings, even if we take into account the newer UAZ Patriot car.

Nuances of gearbox repair and wear

In our life, nothing lasts forever, no matter how sad it may sound. Any, even the most reliable mechanism fails, breaks and it’s good if after that it can be repaired. The worm gearbox installed on the UAZ Bukhanka or Patriot is no exception.

The most common problem that owners of a car with this steering mechanism encounter is gearbox leakage. It can leak for two reasons:

• Corrosion of the input shaft;
• Seal leakage.

In both cases, the main symptom of the “disease” is a leaking oil, which can be found directly under your UAZ 469 loaf. But the complexity of the repair will vary. In the first case, you will have to grind the shaft and carry out a thermal spraying operation. The second problem is easier to solve; you just have to change the gaskets and cuffs on the oil seal; the old ones can just be thrown away.

Another problem with the gearboxes on the UAZ Bukhanka and Patriot is the feeling that the steering wheel has become difficult to turn. In this case, you will have to visit the nearest service station, where they will measure the level of effort applied when turning the steering wheel and give you a verdict. It is better not to carry out repairs with your own hands, because you need special equipment and, of course, knowledge.

Selection of repair kit

Before starting repair and restoration work, you should decide on the choice of repair kit.

Minimum set. This set includes the necessary list of fastening and sealing elements: washers, bearings, nuts and fluoroplastic bushings.

The basic set has bearings and shafts in addition to the minimum set, but its cost can be twice as high as the first option.

Please note that the steering rack can be either old or new. The old racks are designed for the VAZ 2108, while the new ones are designed for the “tenth” model. The new version is also more convenient to repair. If there is a need to repair the steering rack, which involves replacing the bushing, then there is no need to disassemble the entire mechanism. Remove the corrugation, unscrew the central nut and disassemble the rack into two component parts. One part will contain the mechanism, and the other part will be the one where the bushing is located.

Reasons for replacement

There are more than enough reasons to want to replace your steering wheel. But everyone has their own:

1. The old steering wheel was worn out;
2. The current rim does not meet the driver's requirements;
3. The driver feels uncomfortable with the factory steering wheel;
4. The unit received mechanical damage;
5. Tuning, modifications to the interior and the entire car, etc. are carried out.

Drivers can name many more reasons why they want to get a new one to replace their old steering wheel.

Option for tuning

Preparatory activities

The first thing you need to do is buy a steering rack repair kit. Without it, starting work is completely useless. The set may have different configurations.

• Minimum (washers, fasteners, bushings, nuts, bearings).
• Medium (in addition to all of the above, shafts are added). The cost of such a kit is twice as much.
• Maximum (everything is included here, including the rack).

Please note that there are different slats - old and new. The former are intended mostly for the VAZ 2108, and the latter for the VAZ 2110. It is better, of course, to give preference to the second option, because in this case the bushing is much easier to change (there is no need to disassemble the entire rack).

What to choose?

Based on the presented range of steering wheels suitable for the VAZ 2110, certain conclusions can be drawn regarding the advantages and disadvantages of various options.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with them in the table.

It’s up to you to decide which one you choose. The steering wheel plays a significant role in ensuring comfort and safety, so you should choose a high-quality product that you can use to comfortably control the movement of your car.

Euro steering wheel

Steering innovations

It seems like the issue has been resolved. Now it was possible to increase the force on the steering wheel, make the number of revolutions from lock to lock minimal, everything was smoothed out by the amplifier, but another problem arose. The car is operated in too different modes and the exact dosage of the steering angle at speeds of 140 and 55 km/h have completely different values. Not to mention the fact that there was almost no effort on the steering wheel, which made the steering even more insane. Then we had to change the design of the steering rack again. This time the objects of attention were the rack/pinion pair. Installing a new pair helped. The new steering rack was called “short” because the number of steering revolutions was reduced from 3.8 to 2.9. As a result, the waviness has almost disappeared and the steering wheel has become sharper.

Useful tips

Finally, here are some useful tips that will extend the life of the steering rack and other elements included in the control unit:

1. At least once a quarter, check the condition of the steering at a service station or yourself.
2. Pay attention to the condition of the steering column protective cover.
3. Try to limit driving on uneven surfaces, especially at high speeds.
4. Do not test the strength of the steering rack and the entire mechanism by moving away with the steering wheel turned all the way to the side.
5. If play or other signs of steering rack malfunction are detected, repair or replace it.

Dear Drivers, any mechanism in a car does not last forever, so when driving on an uneven road, at one fine moment a knock

which
feeds into the steering wheel
.
Or standing still, there may be a knock when turning the steering wheel
.
These are the first signs that it is time to repair the steering rack
.

The following signs will help you determine the condition of the steering rack:

1.Grip the steering shaft where it meets the rack and move it up and down. If there is a knock, then repair the rack housing (most often the reason is that the needle bearing is running without lubrication). 2. You can check the play of the bushing and the contact of the rack with the steering gear by grasping the joint of the steering rods from under the hood.

It’s good if the reason turns out to be poor tightening of the components, but if there is knocking in the rack, then you can do the following: 1. buy a new steering rack 2. restore the steering rack at a service station 3. repair the steering rack yourself

If the price of a new rack does not bother you, then of course it is better to install a new unit. Restoring it at a service station will also cost a pretty penny. Well, the cheapest way to get rid of knocking is to do everything yourself.

How does the steering mechanism work?

Steering

injury-proof, with a height-adjustable (tilt-angle) steering column, and a rack-and-pinion steering mechanism.

Steering gear

assembled with steering rods, it is attached in the engine compartment to the front panel of the body on two brackets using brackets 2 (Fig. 1). The mechanism is secured with nuts on welded bolts through rubber pads (supports) 3.

A drive gear is installed in the steering gear housing 5, which meshes with the rack.

The steering shaft consists of an upper 14 and an intermediate 10 shaft, connected to each other by a cardan joint. The intermediate shaft is connected to the drive gear by a flange through an elastic coupling. The upper shaft is installed in the bracket pipe 21 on two ball bearings with elastic bushings on the inner ring.

Fig1. Steering parts: 1 – inner tie rod ends; 2 – steering gear mounting bracket; 3 – steering gear support; 4 – spacer ring; 5 – steering mechanism; 6 – sealing gasket; 7 – thrust plate of the seal; 8 – seal; 9 – lower flange of the elastic coupling; 10 – intermediate steering shaft; 11 – coupling bolt; 12 – spacer sleeve; 13 – facing casing (upper part); 14 – upper steering shaft; 15 – steering wheel; 16 – signal switch cover; 17 – adjusting sleeve; 18 – steering column position adjustment lever; 19 – retaining ring; 20 – facing casing (lower part); 21 – steering shaft mounting bracket; 22 – steering shaft bearing; 23 – adjusting rod; 24 – outer tie rod end; 25 – spring ring; 26 – protective cap; 27 – sealing ring

At each vehicle maintenance check the condition of the protective cover, the protective caps of the 26 linkage joints and the tightness of their fit. They must be replaced if there are cracks, ruptures or other defects that impair their tightness.

Make sure that the steering wheel spoke is horizontal when the vehicle's wheels are straight. Otherwise, determine the cause of the problem and correct it.

Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and check visually and audibly:

- reliability of fastening of the steering mechanism and steering wheel;

- is there any play in the rubber-metal joints, in the steering rod joints, as well as in the rivet and spline joints of the elastic coupling of the steering shaft;

-reliability of tightening and locking the bolts securing the rods to the rack and the nuts of the ball joint pins;

- are there any jams or obstacles that prevent the steering wheel from turning?

If knocking or binding is detected, disconnect the tie rods from the swing arms of the telescopic suspension struts and recheck. After confirming that the knocking and sticking noise is coming from the steering, remove the steering gear from the vehicle for repair.

The maximum permissible gap between the stop and the nut is 0.2 mm. If necessary, replace worn parts and adjust the gap between the stop and the nut.

Design and role of the steering rack in the control system

The VAZ-2110 steering rack is a steel form, one side of which has teeth that mesh with the teeth of the drive gear. The latter is driven by the steering wheel through the shaft and its cardan. In VAZ-2110 cars, the steering rack is located in a column, which is mounted on the partition between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.

Its upper part has a mount for two rods, which are connected to the shock absorber struts through the tips and their fingers.

When you turn the steering wheel, its shaft rotates and transmits force through the cardan to the drive gear. As it rotates, it moves the rack along with the rods in the desired direction. This is how the car is controlled in such a simple way.

Naturally, to ensure normal operation of the rack, the design of the steering mechanism includes a number of other parts:

• column housing (case);
• protective casing (corrugation) with clamps;
• two drive gear bearings (ball and needle);
• support sleeve (fluoroplastic);
• emphasis;
• thrust nut;
• anthers, plugs, washers, etc.

5.1. Design Features

Steering mechanism assembly with drive

1

- tie rod end;
2
– ball joint of the tip;
3
– rotary lever;
4
– adjusting rod;
5
and
7
– inner tie rod ends;
6
– bolts securing the steering rods to the rack;
8
– steering gear mounting bracket;
9
– steering gear support;
10
– protective cover;
11
– locking plate;
12
– connecting plate;
13
– rubber-metal hinge;
14
– damping rings;
15
– rack support sleeve;
16
– rack;
17
– steering gear housing;
18
– coupling bolt;
19
– elastic coupling flange;
20
– roller bearing;
21
– drive gear;
22
– ball bearing;
23
– retaining ring;
24
– protective washer;
25
– sealing ring;
26
– bearing nut;
27
– intermediate steering shaft;
28
– boot;
29
– protective cap;
30
– sealing ring of the stop;
31
– rack stop;
32
– spring;
33
– stop nut;
34
– retaining ring of the stop nut;
35
– plug;
36
– liner spring;
37
– ball pin insert;
38
– ball pin;
39
– protective cap;
A, B
– marks on the boot and crankcase;
C, D
– surfaces on the ball joint and swing arm

Where is the bearing located, how to dismantle it?

On domestically produced cars, the input shaft bearing is located on the secondary shaft, directly behind the oil seal. When the gearbox is completely removed from the car, take out the bell, as well as the retaining rings. There is no need to disassemble the assembly further.

In order to replace the part, you need to use a screwdriver to hook the bearing into its annular groove. Next, the input shaft is pushed forward using the bearing as a support. Then slowly pull the bearing off the shaft by tapping it with a hammer. There's no need to rush. Replacing the VAZ input shaft bearing can take from several minutes to one hour.