Have you ever wondered what exactly your safety on the road depends on? You can, of course, refer to other road users or the condition of the roads. But it will be much more relevant to talk about the technical side of the issue. The hero of our today's article on the VAZ 2110 is the caliper.
Front brake cylinder VAZ 2110
An incredibly simple mechanism in design and operation, at the same time it is an extremely important part of your VAZ car. A properly functioning caliper can give you those precious few meters of braking distance in reserve, which can protect you from a terrible disaster or damage to your vehicle.
Not every motorist knows how to properly monitor and maintain the brake mechanism, has a vague idea of how to dismantle it and, perhaps, will generally look at his interlocutor with a blank look when mentioning a certain VAZ caliper. But servicing this element of the brake system is quite simple and does not require much effort.
VAZ 2110 caliper maintenance
On the road you should not rely on the Almighty. Therefore, if you feel that something is wrong with the braking distance of the car, it is better to take the initiative into your own hands. Arm yourself with a modest arsenal of locksmith tools, consisting of a small number of open-end and socket wrenches, as well as a certain amount of theoretical knowledge - get down to business.
Major breakdowns
The front caliper of the VAZ-2110 is a structural element that holds the brake pads and is responsible for the level of pressure of these elements on the metal discs. It also helps ensure even pad wear, which guarantees effective braking in any situation. The body is made of aluminum alloy and the piston is made of steel.
Between these elements there is an oil seal that prevents brake fluid from leaking out of the system. The main caliper failures are as follows:
- The appearance of oxidation on the surface of the guide elements.
- Oxidation on the main piston, which leads to deterioration of the mechanism.
Failure can be identified by uneven wear of the pads, as well as by an increased braking distance. If such malfunctions are detected, be sure to change the pads.
Symptoms of mechanism malfunction
The design of this mechanism is very simple, but it is the most important component of the braking system. If the brake caliper of the VAZ-2110 is in good working order and operates in normal mode, then this directly affects the braking distance of the car. In case of sudden braking, you have a chance to win several “golden” meters, which can protect you from a fatal outcome.
Among the main symptoms of breakdowns of this mechanism are the presence of smudges near the front wheel, as well as an increase in braking distance. But similar symptoms can also appear when tubes, hoses are destroyed, or the fluid level in the system decreases. Therefore, before repairing the caliper, you need to make sure that it is faulty.
Brake fluid
Any brake fluid that is used in automotive systems absorbs moisture very well. It is hygroscopic, therefore it oxidizes the piston mechanism from the inside, which leads to failure of structural elements. This makes the piston stroke more difficult and the brake pads wear unevenly.
The front wheels may become jammed. For these reasons, it is necessary to replace the brake fluid. Its service life is about 90,000 km, but not more than two years. These solutions contain many useful additives that improve cooling and increase braking efficiency.
But over time, under the influence of high temperatures and pressure, these additives evaporate. And the consistency of the brake fluid becomes more like water, and this reduces the efficiency of the system.
Repair kits
You can purchase special kits designed for caliper repair. But there is no point in purchasing it. It is much better to replace the VAZ-2110 caliper. In this case, you will increase the life of the entire braking system and also improve its reliability. Such repair kits contain the lubricant that is necessary for the piston and guides.
You cannot use graphite lubricant such as CV joint or Litol-24, as this will cause the protective shock absorbers to swell and the guides to simply oxidize. As a result, repairs will not bring the desired effect for a long time.
Calipers for VAZ 2110: repair and maintenance
Have you ever wondered what exactly your safety on the road depends on? You can, of course, refer to other road users or the condition of the roads. But it will be much more relevant to talk about the technical side of the issue. The hero of our today's article on the VAZ 2110 is the caliper.
Front brake cylinder VAZ 2110
An incredibly simple mechanism in design and operation, at the same time it is an extremely important part of your VAZ car. A properly functioning caliper can give you those precious few meters of braking distance in reserve, which can protect you from a terrible disaster or damage to your vehicle.
Not every motorist knows how to properly monitor and maintain the brake mechanism, has a vague idea of how to dismantle it and, perhaps, will generally look at his interlocutor with a blank look when mentioning a certain VAZ caliper. But servicing this element of the brake system is quite simple and does not require much effort.
VAZ 2110 caliper maintenance
On the road you should not rely on the Almighty. Therefore, if you feel that something is wrong with the braking distance of the car, it is better to take the initiative into your own hands. Arm yourself with a modest arsenal of locksmith tools, consisting of a small number of open-end and socket wrenches, as well as a certain amount of theoretical knowledge - get down to business.
Why is a caliper so important in a car?
Almost every detail in a car can be said to be very important. But, if the engine or any other part fails, the car will simply stop moving. Therefore, the driver will not be exposed to any danger, because there is no traffic.
In case of some problems and repairs to the brake system of the VAZ 2110-2112, the necessary action will be to remove the front wheel caliper. If the task is, for example, replacing brake discs, then the caliper can be removed as an assembly without disconnecting anything else.
Below we will look at this procedure more clearly. So, for this repair we will need the following tool:
Do-it-yourself dismantling of the caliper on a VAZ-2110
The very simple design of the product and the triviality of the process of dismantling it allow even a novice motorist to carry out repairs and maintenance. If you carefully follow the recommendations below, you are unlikely to encounter difficulties at any stage of the process. You will save a lot of money spent on a trip to a service station, and a considerable amount of time, because the service time is comparable to the time required to travel to the workshop.
Dismantling VAZ caliper
The sequence for dismantling the product is as follows:
- The first step is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. To be on the safe side, it can then be placed under the bottom of the car in case the jack fails;
- On a VAZ 2112, the caliper is attached to the bracket using two M17 bolts, which you should unscrew. Penetrating lubricant may be needed to strip the bolts;
- If you need to replace the VAZ caliper or carry out a comprehensive repair, unscrew the product from the brake hose. You seal the hose tip and you can begin further disassembling the product.
Diagnostics
To check the front brake caliper of the VAZ-2110, you will need to perform the following steps:
- Assess the condition of the metal piston and the ease of its movement inside the cylinder.
- Check for metal oxidation, oxide formations or build-ups, or moisture on the elements.
- Assess the condition of all rubber boots.
- Check the condition of the VAZ-2110 caliper guides. You must make sure that there is no abrasion, deformation or scuffing on their surface.
Any damage to the caliper body and its and other elements should alert the driver. In this case, it is necessary to change the mechanism.
Detailing
Assembly elements on the front brake mechanism:
- Dustproof cover;
- Pad holder;
- Noise protection gasket and spring;
- Two pads: internal, with a wear indicator, and external;
- Fastening plates;
- Cylinder cover and piston;
- Caliper;
- Bracket;
- Air release valve;
- Gasket, bushing, pin, seal.
For the tenth to twelfth VAZ models, these units are structurally the same, only the VAZ 2110 caliper bracket is different. Therefore, it becomes possible to install not only the “native” unit, but also from “related” models. Naturally, this requires replacing the bracket itself.
It plays a vital role in securing the caliper and brake mechanism, and also forms the front clamping mechanism along with the caliper, piston and caliper.
Thus, the bracket is not only a holding element, but also a guiding element of the front wheel locking mechanism.
Front caliper parts
Naturally, when it fails, the entire assembly is often replaced, but individual elements can be repaired, for which there are special repair kits.
The price of a repair kit averages about 500 rubles and includes:
- 1 hose fitting with cap;
- 2 protective covers for guides;
- 1 O-ring;
- 1 caliper protective ring.
The price of a new left or right front caliper fluctuates around 1000-1500 rubles.
Vacuum booster
1 – vacuum booster housing;
2 – amplifier housing cup; 3 – rod; 4 – adjusting bolt; 5 – rod seal; 6 – sealing ring of the master cylinder flange; 7 – diaphragm return spring; 8 – amplifier pin; 9 – tip mounting flange; 10 – valve; 11 – hose tip; 12 – diaphragm; 13 – amplifier housing cover; 14 – sealing cover; 15 – piston; 16 – protective cover of the valve body; 17 – air filter; 18 – pusher; 19 – pusher return spring; 20 – valve spring; 21 – valve; 22 – valve body bushing; 23 – rod buffer; 24 – valve body; A – vacuum chamber; B – atmospheric chamber; C, D – channels The rubber diaphragm 12 together with the valve body 24 divides the cavity of the vacuum amplifier into two chambers: vacuum A and atmospheric B. Chamber A is connected to the engine inlet pipe through the check valve of the tip 11 and a hose.
The 24 valve body is plastic. At the exit from the cover, it is sealed with a corrugated protective cover 16. The valve body contains the main cylinder drive rod 3 with a support sleeve, rod buffer 23, valve body piston 15, valve assembly 21, pusher and valve return springs 19 and 20, air filter 17 , pusher 18.
When you press the pedal, the pusher 18, the piston 15, and after them the valve 21 move until it stops against the seat of the valve body. In this case, cameras A and B are separated. As the piston moves further, its seat moves away from the valve and through the resulting gap, chamber B is connected to the atmosphere. The air entering through filter 17, the gap between the piston and the valve and channel D creates pressure on the diaphragm 12. Due to the difference in pressure in chambers A and B, the valve body moves along with the rod 3, which acts on the piston of the main cylinder.
When the pedal is released, valve 21 moves away from the body seat and through the resulting gap and channel C of chambers A and B communicate with each other.
VAZ-2110 caliper maintenance and repairs
It is mandatory to service the VAZ caliper after each replacement of brake pads, as well as in the event of a forced inspection due to its malfunction, for which it is first necessary to check the condition of all rubber elements, shock absorbers and anthers. It is also imperative to replace the grease for the caliper guides. You need a good synthetic based silicone lubricant that can withstand high temperatures.
To remove the piston from its seat, it is necessary to create the appropriate force using an air compressor (pistons are repaired one at a time, the stroke of the second is blocked, for example, by a wooden block). With the same success, when removing the product from the car, you can press the brake pedal without disconnecting the VAZ 2112 caliper from the brake hose. It is advisable to use a rubber adapter in order to absorb the sharp impact of the freely moving piston and its “shot”.
VAZ 2110 caliper repair
The piston is pushed back using a special clamp. In this case, the boot should be bent to compensate for excess air pressure. The hole for the piston and for the guides are cleaned and washed with carburetor cleaning fluid, all gaskets, boots and seats are also thoroughly lubricated.
Causes of jamming and creaking
Now directly about how to determine the presence of a problem.
The primary sign indicating a malfunction in the calipers of a car brake system is squeaking.
It is the creaking that indicates that the element is seriously worn out. In the near future, the unit must be replaced without fail, which the car literally and figuratively screams about. It is extremely difficult not to hear such a creak. But for some reason, thousands of motorists still stubbornly ignore it. As a result, they pay a rather high price.
The first step is to look at the possible causes. In fact, there are several potential problems to look for. Some of them arise due to the fault of the motorist, others are caused by the natural process of wear and tear.
In any case, the appearance of a squeak as a symptom is a harbinger that at the most inopportune moment the caliper may simply jam.
If you know the reasons, you can prevent them and troubleshoot them by contacting a car service center or solving the problem yourself.
- The brake pads were initially installed incorrectly. As a result, they are not strictly parallel to the response drives. Because of this, creaking often appears;
- The brake discs are seriously worn out. The reasons are natural wear and tear and aggressive use of the car;
- There is no lubrication in the unit. Initially there was little of it, or it was used up;
- The lubricant was selected incorrectly. Many people skimp on lubricant intended for calipers, hence the consequences.
The most undesirable and dangerous situation is rightly considered when the piston does not return and the unit begins to jam during operation.
Imagine that you are driving a car, press the brake, and then accelerate again. But at the same time, the calipers do not release the front brakes. Additional resistance arises, the car tries to move, but cannot. The result is uncontrolled braking, extremely intense wear and serious overheating of the entire system.
The procedure for removing the caliper and video instructions using the example of a VAZ 2110
So, let's look at the order of actions that need to be performed.
- Raise the car with a jack
- Remove the front wheel
- Disconnect the brake hose from the front strut.
- Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts from the inside
See the step-by-step instructions using the example of the VAZ 2110, which was made specifically for this article:
As you can see, this process can be completed in 5 minutes, the name of the necessary tool is at hand and an idea of all the necessary actions. A new caliper complete with brake pads has a price of 2,000 rubles for original AvtoVAZ products. If we consider cheaper analogues, then you can buy a caliper for 1,500 rubles - a piece.
Of course, in most cases it is necessary to change only the necessary spare parts of this entire structure, because the cylinder, bracket and pads are sold separately. And for many car owners it simply doesn’t make sense to buy the whole thing assembled.
Checking the caliper and restoring it
The caliper is installed on the front and rear brakes. Its verification and restoration can be carried out independently, but, in the absence of the necessary practical skills and theoretical knowledge, it is best to turn to professional specialists. Let's consider in theory a method for checking and restoring a caliper on a VAZ 2110, the price of which is one of the lowest on the market.
The main task comes down to properly disassembling the caliper, cleaning it of old grease residues, applying a new special compound and checking the integrity of the rubber seals. First you need to gain free access to the front brake mechanism, which is located directly behind the wheel. For these purposes, supports are installed that help to easily and quickly remove the wheel.
After this, they begin the process of replacing the brake pads on the front caliper of the VAZ 2110. To do this, you need to remove the lower bolt, which is responsible for fastening the caliper, using a screwdriver, the body of which can easily be tilted up. When replacing old brake pads, you should remember their location, since the installation of new parts should be carried out in the same place.
If the VAZ 2110 caliper body was folded up and the brake pads were removed, then you can proceed to the next stage. In this process, you will need to unscrew the upper bolt responsible for fastening the caliper. It is worth noting that the line and brake fluid must remain connected.
Next, the bolts that serve to connect the knuckle and caliper bracket are unscrewed. After removing the bolts, you can remove the bracket (along with the brake pad clamps and guides). Subsequently, the piston is removed from the caliper body. It can be quite difficult to do this yourself, so you can use the services of professional auto repairmen working at service stations.
If you decided to check and restore the VAZ 2110 caliper yourself from start to finish, then you can try to carry out the following steps:
- conveniently position the caliper body without disconnecting it from the brake line.
- press the brake pedal and release it only when the piston is pressed out of the cylinder by the pressure.
Do not be alarmed if liquid suddenly leaks from the cylinder, as this is quite normal for removing the piston using the above method. Next, you need to interrupt the brake line connection and also plug it (to prevent further fluid leakage). Once the so-called “blockage” has been established, the process of disassembling the “tens” caliper can be considered successfully completed.
It is worth considering the fact that the above steps do not cover the replacement and reassembly of the brake system. But, based on their complexity in describing the initial stage, one can understand how complex a part the caliper is.
Parking brake system drive
The mechanically actuated parking brake system acts on the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels. The parking brake drive consists of lever 2, adjusting rod 4, equalizer 5, cable 8, lever 10 (see Fig. Rear wheel brake mechanism), manual pad drive and expansion bar 8.
1 – protective cap; 2 – sensor housing; 3 – sensor base; 4 – sealing ring; 5 – clamping ring; 6 – reflector; 7 – pusher; 8 – bushing; 9 – float; 10 – fixed contacts; 11 – moving contact
Mechanical brake fluid emergency level sensor. The sensor body 2 with a seal 4 and the base 3 with a reflector 6 are pressed by a clamping ring 5 to the end of the tank neck.
A pusher 7 passes through the hole in the base, connected to the float 9 by means of a sleeve 8. There is a moving contact 11 on the pusher, and fixed contacts 10 are located on the sensor body. The contact cavity is sealed with a protective cap 1. When the level of brake fluid in the reservoir drops to the maximum permissible, the moveable the contact moves down onto the fixed contacts and closes the circuit of the hazard warning lamp on the instrument panel.
In continuation to the previous bortovik:
My guess is that the front calipers are due to the rare use of the car (the car is used on weekends, usually for long trips, the last one was the day before the car was put into operation, 1000 km in one breath) have become acidic or it’s time for lubrication (during final assembly from - due to the lack of normal lubrication, the calipers were lubricated with grease from the Mercedes A-Class brake repair kit). Well, as for the rear drums, I’ll open them up and have a look! For one thing, I will introduce you to the condition of the brake system after several years of operation.
Let's go: I take off the hubcaps and inspect the wheels. For the winter, install a winter kit, standard stamping, processed in a hypercube and painted using epoxy primer. Well preserved!
I remove the drum. Who asked why paint the inside of the drums, the brake shield and all that? Look how much more pleasant it is to work now that there is no rust)
I remove and disassemble the cylinder, its pistons move a little stiffly.
Cylinder, piston, retaining ring (this is the shape of a Volga, the stopper does not scratch the cylinder mirror at all, it is made wisely!) and cuffs
I disassemble it simply - I clamp the tail of one cylinder in a vice and press the cylinder first with a lever from a screwdriver, then by tapping with a hammer. Then I knock out the second one from the inside with a screwdriver
These are the reasons for the tight running - the pistons have begun to corrode. There are traces of corrosion in the piston-cylinder gap.
I disassemble, clean with sandpaper, polish the cylinder mirror as standard (without fanaticism. 800 sandpaper. 1500-2000 with water)
On one side there are small shells. when the piston reaches them with the cuff, there is a possibility of the cylinder leaking. I would replace it as planned during the next scheduled work, and in one go I would grind the brake drums (there are large “grooves” on the removed one and, perhaps, in one go I would change the brake pads (up to a pack. For even drums, new pads are better), but this is at the end of the post
I take mounting paste Ate 03.9902-0501.2
And I collect, carefully lubricating
I blow through the inside of the drum with a compressor, wipe the pads and the surface of the drum with a degreaser (oh, I wish I could sharpen it...) And assemble the right rear
Then I disassemble the rear driver's side. However, how much cleaner and less worn out it is here
And the cylinder is like new
I do the same with it (polishing, lubricating, assembling) and after blowing and degreasing, I assemble it. Notice how much less wear there is on the drum than in the photo on the other side
Now it's the front calipers' turn
I take it off and take out the pistons. They pull out without pressure, I pull with pliers, but how tight is the grease that was once laid...
Inside, sit by yourself. The brake is 2 years old, like all brakes. Changing the fluid by this time is mandatory!
And here is the condition of the pistons after a long time of polishing. Almost ideal, thin waistband opposite the cuff. I will say that in person it is almost invisible, this photo with flash emphasizes the wear and tear
I check the condition and tightness of the anthers. On the right there are 2 from the Mercedes - everything is completely ideal, on the left - standard ones. And surprisingly, the regular ones are also like new and sealed.
Therefore, I decide not to climb inside, the guides move perfectly, the grease for the guides from the Mercedes A-Class brake repair kit is placed inside.
I rub the pistons with 2000-grit sandpaper, sand them with felt and assemble the calipers, again with assembly lubricant. Now the pistons move by hand)
I collect it, fill it with new brake fluid (exactly every couple of years it needs to be changed to new one)
Do-it-yourself dismantling of the caliper on a VAZ-2110
The very simple design of the product and the triviality of the process of dismantling it allow even a novice motorist to carry out repairs and maintenance. If you carefully follow the recommendations below, you are unlikely to encounter difficulties at any stage of the process. You will save a lot of money spent on a trip to a service station, and a considerable amount of time, because the service time is comparable to the time required to travel to the workshop.
Dismantling VAZ caliper
The sequence for dismantling the product is as follows:
- The first step is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. To be on the safe side, it can then be placed under the bottom of the car in case the jack fails;
- On a VAZ 2112, the caliper is attached to the bracket using two M17 bolts, which you should unscrew. Penetrating lubricant may be needed to strip the bolts;
- If you need to replace the VAZ caliper or carry out a comprehensive repair, unscrew the product from the brake hose. You seal the hose tip and you can begin further disassembling the product.
how to remove the caliper on a VAZ 2110 video Video
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Source
Troubleshooting possible replacement problems
There are relatively few difficulties when replacing brake pads. As a rule, they are associated with souring of bolts due to rust. The drum elements most susceptible to corrosion are the mounting pins. In case of possible difficulties, the drum is removed along with the rear wheel hub, and when unscrewing the studs, it is allowed to use a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. However, when working with brake mechanisms, lubricants should be used extremely carefully, avoiding their contact with the working surface of the pads or disc (in the case of the front wheels). Otherwise, the efficiency of the brakes can be significantly reduced, up to severe slipping between the working surfaces of the pad and the drum linings or the disc.
To summarize, we can note the ease of replacing brake pads on a VAZ-2110. The procedure does not require special skills or tools; it can be done in an ordinary garage without any particular difficulties. Knowing the order of operations when replacing allows you to complete this procedure quickly and efficiently.
Replacing brake caliper guides for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
Lately, there has been a grinding noise when braking. An inspection of the brake system showed that the discs and pads were in good condition.
One of the reasons for grinding and rattling of calipers may be worn guides. Also, worn guides can lead to uneven wear of the pads (when one of the pads wears out faster than the other). This is exactly the wear that was on the old pads when they were last replaced.
Inspection of the guides showed that they are not jammed, but the lubricant has coked and thickened, and there is also noticeable play.
4 guides were purchased along with anthers, the price was 40 rubles per piece. And also a special lubricant for brake systems BOSCH SUPEFIT (5000000151) for 50 rubles. One bag is just enough for four guides.
It is important to know that not any high temperature grease will work for caliper guides. Do not use ceramic grease or copper-based grease. These lubricants coke and cause the guides to jam.
They can also be aggressive towards anthers. As it turned out later, BOSCH lubricant is not suitable for guides; the temperature range is only -25°C +130°C, which is naturally not enough for this unit. Although the manufacturer claims that this lubricant is universal and is exactly suitable for guides. I found supporting information in the official brochure about the use of lubricant
These lubricants coke and cause the guides to jam. They can also be aggressive towards anthers. As it turned out later, BOSCH lubricant is not suitable for guides; the temperature range is only -25°C +130°C, which is naturally not enough for this unit. Although the manufacturer claims that this lubricant is universal and is exactly suitable for guides. I found supporting information in the official brochure about the use of lubricant.
We'll ride it for now, and we'll see.
Before replacing the guides, remove old grease and thoroughly wash the bracket. To remove the old grease I used 646 solvent.
Its disadvantage is that it is aggressive to the rubber from which the anthers are made, so after using the solvent, I washed the staples with a degreaser. New lubricant should be applied in a thin layer.
The boots on the new guides turned out to be complete crap, several tore at once, so I had to install the old ones, which turned out to be in good condition. By the way, when assembling, you should first put the boot on the bracket, and then on the guide. This makes it much easier and less likely to tear the boot.
After replacing the guides, the grinding noise when braking no longer bothers me.
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Installation of calipers from Volga on VAZ 2110
| There are never too many 'brakes', so many are trying to improve their efficiency by replacing the original brake discs and pads with alternative, imported ones. There are also more advanced modifications to the brakes, for example, installing GAZ 3110 brakes on a VAZ 2110. |
Brakes GAZ 3110 and VAZ 2110, what is the difference?
The negative aspect of switching to more massive calipers from the Volga is in weight. For example, the weight of a VAZ caliper with pads is 3.2 kg, and the weight of a Volga caliper with pads and adapter is 5 kg. That is, by replacing the standard 'tens' calipers with Volgov calipers, we increase the amount of unsprung mass of the car.
The positive aspect of the Volga brakes is that the large pad area allows for better heat dissipation. Car enthusiasts also note their better efficiency compared to standard VAZ 2110 brakes.
Adapter for GAZ 3110 caliper for VAZ with front-wheel drive
Drawing of an adapter for the Volga caliper for VAZ 2108/2110/1118/2170 (AutoCAD format)
In the archive there is an adapter for brake discs R14 and R15, archive password: lada2111rf
Gas 3110 from storage. Automobile equipment surplus, used sale.nelikvidi.com
Installation of calipers from GAZ 3110 to VAZ 2110 (R15)
You will need: Volga calipers along with pads, an adapter for Volga calipers on a front-wheel drive VAZ (2 pcs), caliper hoses from a Chevrolet Niva (short).
Remove the caliper along with the bracket, and then disconnect the hose from the tube. Drill out the hole in the bracket on the body that holds the connection between the hose and the tube. This is done in order to thread the hose fitting. Connect one end of the hose to the tube. The other end is with a caliper.
Next, screw the adapter to the guide of the GAZ 3110 pads using M12x25 bolts with a pitch of 1.25 (it is advisable to use bolts with the letter 'X') and M12 bolts. Then screw the adapter with the guide to the steering knuckle using standard M10x25 bolts, pitch 1.25. Install the Volga pads, having previously cut off the wear sensor wires from them. Install the caliper. The bleeding fitting must be at the top, otherwise it is impossible to bleed the brakes. All that remains is to bleed the brakes, and here it is worth considering that with GAS calipers, more brake fluid is poured into the system.
Installation of calipers from GAZ 3110 to VAZ 2110 (R14)
In general, the installation is similar, but there are a number of points that are worth paying attention to: 1. Due to the fact that when installing R14 brake discs, the guide will move towards the steering knuckle, so we saw off the edges of the boot using a grinder. 2
The adapter is used for R14 brake discs. Bolts should be used 5mm shorter, M10x20 pitch 1.25 with an M10 lock washer. Otherwise, the bolt will press the adapter to the brake disc and the disc will not turn
2. The adapter is used for R14 brake discs. Bolts should be used 5mm shorter, M10x20 pitch 1.25 with an M10 lock washer. Otherwise, the bolt will press the adapter against the brake disc and the disc will not turn.
3. The Volga’s caliper is larger than that of the “ten”, so you have to install a disc with a different offset, in this case the ET35 offset. An 11mm spacer for the wheel rim is also used. When installing disks, the seat may cling to the disk guide; in this case, you can grind the guide or use a spacer of the required thickness.
Conclusion
The negative point, which is the large weight, in practice does not affect the behavior of the machine. And the performance of brakes with GAZ calipers is significantly better.
By the way, this is not the only way to tune the brakes; rear disc brakes are very popular, as well as simply replacing brake discs from R14 to R15.
avtoexperts.ru
The GTZ is an integral part of the brake system, which performs one of the key tasks - converting the force applied to the brake pedal to generate pressure in the system. The GTZ interacts through the “vacuum valve” rod with the brake pedal directly. The task of the GTZ is to evenly distribute pressure across all circuits.
The brake cylinder is located on the brake “vacuum reservoir” cover. A brake fluid reservoir is mounted above it. The sections of the tank and the GTZ are interconnected by bypass holes, and are responsible for a specific section in the system. The reservoir itself is designed to replenish the loss of “brake fluid”. Visually, the tank has a transparent body, with a scale for monitoring the liquid level. In addition to the scale, sensors installed in the tank are used to signal the liquid level, displaying information on the “tidy”.
Types and design of GTZ
Structurally, gas turbine engines are divided into the following types:
For clarity, we will consider the design and principle of operation using the example of double-circuit GTZ. They are more popular than their predecessors. The latter were installed mostly on cars of the last century (various models of Moskvich, Zhiguli, GAZ, GAZ-53, 33 (first modification) trucks, etc. The dual-circuit system is considered more effective in terms of braking. Now it is equipped with Most of the modern cars are both domestic (Lada Kalina, Priora, “Ten” family, “Samar”, Granta, Vesta, Xray) and foreign (Renault Logan, Volkswagen Polo, KIA RIO, Hyundai Solaris, Opel Astra, Vectra, Chevrolet Lanos, Aveo, Cobalt, etc.) The advantages of a dual-circuit brake cylinder system are that if, for example, one circuit fails, the brakes on one pair of wheels are lost, but another circuit remains in the “battle” another pair of wheels, and therefore brakes, of which there are none.
Each of the circuits is responsible for a specific pair of wheels. So, if the car is rear-wheel drive, that is, there is a division, the first circuit is responsible for the front pairs of wheels, the second for the rear ones.
However, if we are talking about a front-wheel drive vehicle, then the distribution of responsibility occurs diagonally: L.P./P. Z. and P.P./L.Z.
The brake master cylinder has two main types:
• With bypass hole directly in the cylinder body.
• With bypass valve in the piston.
GTZ, where bypass valves are installed on the piston, are used for installation on cars with ABS systems. The fact is that in addition to bypass valves, such devices include valves to maintain excess pressure in different circuits, which is especially important when ABS is operating.
To make it clear, pistons are placed one behind the other in the brake cylinder body. The first piston is acted upon by a rod from the brake booster while the second piston is secured, essentially "free" and moved by increasing pressure or "direct" force from the other piston. In order for the pistons to “move” tightly along the cylinder, cuffs are installed at the edges. There is an additional seal in the space between the pistons. In addition, the device includes two springs, a travel stop, locking rings and a plug.
Principle of operation
From the pedal, a force is supplied to the first piston of the GTZ through the “vacuum chamber”, from which it begins to move. When moving, the holes in the cylinder are blocked, thereby increasing the pressure in the current section. Then, due to the pressure of the first section, the second piston begins to move, similarly blocking the hole of its “block”, increasing the pressure in it. When the desired pressure is reached, the machine slows down. Next, the springs “pull” the pistons back. Passing again through the same holes, the pressure decreases to its original value. Excess brake fluid used in operation is returned to the reservoir.
Caliper repair
If you decide not to replace, but to repair the mechanism, then you can purchase a special kit for this purpose. It consists of the following components:
- Gaskets.
- New piston.
- Guide elements.
The cost of the repair kit is about 500 rubles. And a new caliper for a car of the tenth family, depending on the greed of the seller, may cost 2-3 times higher.
But before installing the new elements that are included in the kit, it is necessary to completely disassemble the VAZ-2110 caliper. To do this you will need to use an air compressor. Connect it to the hole for the brake pipe, and then gradually supply air. It is advisable to install a rubber spacer or a wooden block under the piston. This will avoid a shot, since the piston moves freely.
A similar action can be performed immediately before removing the mechanism. To do this, you do not need to disconnect the caliper from the system; instead of the brake pads, install a small wooden block. Gently press the brake pedal to build up pressure in the system. In this case, you will lose some amount of liquid, but if you were planning to fill in a new one anyway, then this is not a problem.
Installation of a new piston is done using a clamp. Be sure to bend back the boot to avoid damaging it. Before installing the piston, it is necessary to remove contaminants on the internal surfaces with non-aggressive liquids. It is not recommended to use liquid to clean the carburetor, as it can damage rubber and plastic products.
Pressure regulator
1 – pressure regulator housing; 2 – piston; 3 – protective cap; 4, 8 – retaining rings; 5 – piston sleeve; 6 – piston spring; 7 – body bushing; 9, 22 – support washers; 10 – sealing rings of the pusher; 11 – support plate; 12 – pusher bushing spring; 13 – valve seat sealing ring; 14 – valve seat; 15 – sealing gasket; 16 – plug; 17 – valve spring; 18 – valve; 19 – pusher bushing; 20 – pusher; 21 – piston head seal; 23 – piston rod seal; 24 – plug; A, D – chambers connected to the main cylinder; B, C – chambers connected to the wheel cylinders of the rear brakes; K, M, N – gaps
The pressure regulator regulates the pressure in the hydraulic drive of the rear wheel brakes depending on the load on the rear axle of the vehicle. It is included in both circuits of the brake system and through it brake fluid flows to both rear brake mechanisms.
Pressure regulator 1 (Fig. Pressure regulator drive) is attached to bracket 9 with two bolts 2 and 16. At the same time, front bolt 2 simultaneously secures fork bracket 3 of lever 5 of the pressure regulator drive. A double-arm lever 5 is hinged on the pin of this bracket with a pin 4. Its upper arm is connected to an elastic lever 10, the other end of which is pivotally connected to the rear suspension arm bracket through an earring 11.
Bracket 3 together with lever 5 can be moved relative to the pressure regulator due to the oval holes for the fastening bolt. This regulates the force with which lever 5 acts on the regulator piston (see subsection 6.4.2). The regulator has four chambers: A and D (Fig. Pressure regulator) are connected to the main cylinder, B to the left, and C to the right wheel cylinders of the rear brakes.
Repair
The first rule: if you don’t want further troubles, especially when one of the wheels jams, never repair only one caliper, always both together!
To sort through, repair or replace individual parts, and possibly completely change the unit if it turns out that there is nothing left to repair, you need to follow the following algorithm:
Remove the ring securing the cover, and then the cover itself; To avoid damaging anything, place a piece of wood or a rag between the caliper and the piston, then remove the piston
Also watch your fingers - parts of the mechanism can press them; After removal, pay attention to the piston and cylinder. If you find any damage on them, then the entire assembly needs to be replaced; If everything is fine, using a wooden or possibly a plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the caliper cylinder; If you have a PD51 model, you need to squeeze out the bushing, remove the covers protecting from dust on both sides; All elements should be washed with a liquid intended specifically for cleaning brake mechanisms; You probably purchased a repair kit
From this, “push” a new seal onto the piston, then place it in the cylinder. This must be done without using brute force, otherwise the brake mechanism may subsequently jam; Install the piston dust cover - a new one, from the repair kit; The bushings must be lubricated with silicone grease, which is also included in the repair kit, then installed in the corresponding holes; Install the dust covers in their proper places; Before installing the caliper on the car, replace the copper gaskets on the hose connection.
The front brakes can now be completely reassembled. A prerequisite after repair is to bleed the brakes.
All that remains is to check whether the wheels lock properly when you press the brake pedal, and whether the caliper is sticking. Everything is fine? So, you can hit the road.
Source
What's good about a disc brake?
The main advantages are as follows:
- Compared to a drum, a disc is more reliable, and the braking is “sharper”, due to which the braking distance is reduced;
- The pedal responds faster after pressing;
- The system cools better, which is important when driving in conditions where you need to brake frequently;
- Very convenient to operate and repair, such brakes are easier to dismantle;
- They do not freeze after driving into a puddle of water or after washing.
VAZ-2110 caliper maintenance and repairs
It is mandatory to service the VAZ caliper after each replacement of brake pads, as well as in the event of a forced inspection due to its malfunction, for which it is first necessary to check the condition of all rubber elements, shock absorbers and anthers. It is also imperative to replace the grease for the caliper guides. You need a good synthetic based silicone lubricant that can withstand high temperatures.
If you had to buy a repair kit, it contains such lubricant, all the necessary gaskets, new guides and a piston. The price of such pleasure will cost you about 500 rubles. Buying a new VAZ-2110 (2112) caliper, depending on the store and region of Russia, will cost from 1000 to 1500 rubles.
To remove the piston from its seat, it is necessary to create the appropriate force using an air compressor (pistons are repaired one at a time, the stroke of the second is blocked, for example, by a wooden block). With the same success, when removing the product from the car, you can press the brake pedal without disconnecting the VAZ 2112 caliper from the brake hose. It is advisable to use a rubber adapter in order to absorb the sharp impact of the freely moving piston and its “shot”.
VAZ 2110 caliper repair
The piston is pushed back using a special clamp. In this case, the boot should be bent to compensate for excess air pressure. The hole for the piston and for the guides are cleaned and washed with carburetor cleaning fluid, all gaskets, boots and seats are also thoroughly lubricated.
Removing the caliper
The mechanism is of a very simple design; dismantling can be done without much difficulty. Even a novice motorist can cope with such work. In order to remove the VAZ-2110 caliper, you will need to perform the following steps:
- Loosen the wheel bolts on the side being repaired.
- Raise the side to be repaired using a jack and remove the wheel completely. Install it under the bottom of the car. This will protect you in case the car suddenly falls off the jack.
- Cars of the tenth family have the caliper attached to the bracket using two M17 bolts. They need to be unscrewed. If you can't strip the threads, use a penetrating lubricant.
- Unscrew the brake hose, which is located at the top of the caliper.
When dismantling, evaluate the condition of all rubber tubes. If there is damage on them, even small cracks, it is imperative to install new elements. Such breakdowns can lead to the brake system depressurizing while driving.
Brake master cylinder replacement process
- First you need to disconnect the brake fluid level sensor from the main brake cylinder.
- Unscrew the cap on the expansion tank.
- Using a syringe, pump out the liquid contained in the expansion tank.
- Disconnect the pipe from the brake system.
- Using a 10mm wrench, disconnect 4 tubes in series: 2 on each side.
- Bend these tubes so that when removing the brake cylinder they do not interfere with the process.
- Now you need to unscrew several screws with a Phillips screwdriver in order to get to the bolts securing the main cylinder and the brake booster (vacuum).
- Then you need to bend the upholstery so that 2 nuts are visible.
- Using a 17mm wrench, you need to unscrew these nuts and remove the main cylinder (remove directly with the tank);
- Remove the brake reservoir and install a new one in its place.
