Prior release bearing 16 valves signs of malfunction

02/26/2022 5,670 Transmission

Author: Victor

The release bearing is one of the main clutch elements in a car. Its wear and tear will lead to system malfunctions, resulting in the need to replace the device. In this article we will talk about what signs of malfunction are typical for a release bearing and what the failure of this part can mean for the car.

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Signs of a faulty clutch release bearing

If you miss the moment when the clutch release bearing fails, you can quickly “ruin” the basket and even the flywheel.

There are several signs of its malfunction, upon detection of which you need to quickly drive the car onto a pit, overpass or lift and remove the gearbox.

Using the example of the clutch of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars, we will try to describe them all.

Signs (symptoms) of a faulty clutch release bearing

— Noise from the clutch when the engine is idling

If you listen, from the clutch and gearbox side, while the car engine is idling, you can hear a continuous, distinct noise. When you depress the clutch pedal, the noise disappears or noticeably decreases.

The release bearing can make such noise and even howl at idle, since its working surface is always pressed against the leaf pressure spring of the basket and rotates with it (the clutch on the VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 is backlash-free). The cause of the noise is a malfunction of the bearing associated with the leakage of lubricant from it, after which a play appears and it begins to make sounds when its moving part rotates.

Clutch parts for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

But such noise can also be made by the input shaft of the gearbox, which also rotates at idle.

To determine what exactly is noisy at idle - the releaser or the shaft bearing, we will do the following.

Disconnect the cable from the clutch release fork. We start the engine and leave it idling. Then turn the fork slightly clockwise. The release bearing will come out of contact with the clutch pressure diaphragm spring and the sound should disappear. The howling has disappeared - the release valve is faulty and needs to be replaced. If it does not disappear, you will have to remove the box and replace the input shaft bearing, or replace the oil in it with a better or thicker one.

Checking the serviceability of the clutch release bearing on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

— There is a noise and howling when you press the clutch pedal

If a howling sound is heard from the clutch housing when you press the pedal, then the release bearing has probably failed. If you release the pedal, the noise disappears or decreases.

— Difficulty shifting gears

This happens if the bearing is jammed or even jammed. When in contact with the “basket” spring, it will not rotate with it and will stop it. Because of this, it will not be possible to press (disengage) the clutch normally. The engine will stall, and it will become almost impossible to “stick” the gear. As a result, increased wear will begin in the contact area with the release bearing on the annular leaf spring of the “basket”. After a short time, the “basket” will have to be replaced.

An annular groove at the point of contact between the pressure spring of the clutch basket and the release bearing

Notes and additions

The catalog number for replacing the clutch release bearing for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars is 2110-1601180.

Source

Causes of noise in the gearbox

1. The most important thing is the release bearing .

A damaged release bearing with traces of rust and no traces of lubricant.

The gearbox input shaft bearing can be replaced only after dismantling the gearbox itself.

To avoid unnecessary problems, you should get into the habit of checking the oil level in the gearbox a couple of times a year. When inspecting the dipstick, pay attention to its integrity. The trouble is that when you engage second gear, an incorrectly inserted dipstick (inserted crookedly) may rub.

A typical breakdown of the clutch fork at the point where the lever attaches to the shaft.

The release bearing is usually replaced along with the clutch disc and basket.

The resource depends on the initial quality of the part and the operating characteristics of the vehicle. If you have to drive frequently in traffic jams, the risk of bearing failure is high.

You can drive with a buzzing release for quite a long time, but eventually the bearing will still crumble or jam.

The hum appears because the bearing rotates when the engine is running . But no effort affects it. Therefore, even a slight play can cause extraneous sound. It is not possible to lubricate the bearing - it is a closed type and access to it is problematic. Only a complete replacement will help.

When the clutch is depressed, a load is applied to the bearing, therefore, the backlash decreases. For this reason, the sound may disappear.

But this can be observed only in the early stages of the destruction of the part. Subsequently, a metallic crunch appears. Often the bearing falls apart into several parts.

All that's left of the release. By the way, these fragments can seriously damage the clutch basket.

Replacing the release bearing

To replace the release bearing, at a minimum, you will have to be patient and drive the car into the inspection hole.

To replace the release bearing, you will need to remove the gearbox.

The work is complicated - it is necessary to disconnect the rocker, dismantle the clutch drive, starter, and attachment to the body.

The drives are disconnected one by one, and the differential mechanism is fixed using any guide. After this, the gearbox fastenings to the engine block are unscrewed and the box is removed.

Release bearing: principle of operation, main malfunctions

The clutch assembly can be considered the most important device in a car. Thanks to the clutch, there is a safe, smooth disconnection and connection of torque from the engine to the gearbox. In the clutch system of manual transmissions, one of the main roles is played by the release bearing (BM), which will be discussed in this article.

Lada Granta - eliminating noise (crackling/creaking) from the clutch pedal.

Join our club and discuss the Lada Granta with us. Write your thoughts and... - look in the topic with photos, post your photos, read information about Grant, when Grant goes on sale, about Grant prices and configurations. Club of lovers and owners of Lada Granta in Russia and other countries - granta-club. su. If you like American cars, visit the car enthusiasts club. Fast, Chinese car - forum. Visit the club - the new American Chevrolet sedan.

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Why does a release bearing fail?

VM failure occurs for several reasons. Firstly , due to the fact that some drivers abuse the clutch and, squeezing it for a long time, do not release the pedal (keep their foot on the pedal), thereby subjecting the release bearing to heavy loads. This small part is not designed for long-term loads, since the task is to quickly change gears while receiving a minimum load. But if the clutch is depressed for a long time and this happens regularly, the service life of the part is significantly reduced.

Secondly , wear of the release bearing occurs as a result of natural wear and tear after the service life of the part is exhausted, usually 100-150 thousand km. mileage If the operating rules are not followed, the release valve may fail much earlier.

Thirdly , wear is influenced by external factors, such as dust, dirt, moisture, as well as temperature and mechanical loads. The release bearing itself is inexpensive, but the trouble with a VM breakdown is that if you don’t notice its failure in time, you can quietly “ruin” the entire clutch assembly. As a result, a complete replacement of the clutch assembly will be required, which is many times more expensive than a conventional release bearing replacement.

Why is the manual transmission noisy in Kalina, Priora, Granta cars, how to eliminate the hum and subsequently prevent it from

Hello, dear friends!

Often on our Lada cars, such as Priora, Granta, Kalina, you can hear the noise of a manual transmission. Below I will show what exactly is making noise. The fact is that in these boxes, most often the problem is the same.

As well as rapid wear of synchronizers, which primarily leads to a crunching sound when engaging second speed and reverse gear.

And now a few words about how to prevent noise from occurring if the box is currently working.

1. Shifting gears in afterburner mode. Many young people like to quickly pick up speed and jump into the next gear.

Often, this happens with a characteristic crunch, since due to the high speeds, the synchronizers have not yet had time to take the desired position.

Do this several times and the gears, especially the second one, will always turn on with a crunch. The gearboxes of these cars are weak and cannot withstand such treatment!

2. Do not suddenly engage in a lower gear. That is, this must be done without jumping from 5 to 2, for example.

If you want to slow down the engine, change gears sequentially so that the characteristic shock does not occur. This has a bad effect primarily on the gearbox!

3. Do not keep your hand on the gearshift knob. Pressure on the lever leads to wear of the fork and clutch, after which play appears and the gears no longer engage clearly.

4. Many car enthusiasts hear noise from the release bearing. Unfortunately, this is a problem with these machines. And to replace it, you need to remove the gearbox.

To ensure your bearing lasts as long as possible, it's worth remembering that it works when you depress the clutch!

Accordingly, you should not keep it depressed for a long time, as many drivers like to do.

You need to engage the gear immediately before you want to start moving.

Okay, we remembered the common truths. Now I will show you the main culprit of noise from manual transmissions on our Kalina, Priora, Grant. He's in the photo:

Source

Replacing the release bearing

Replacing the release bearing yourself is quite possible, provided that “your hands are in the right position” and you have everything you need for the job. The work is carried out in the following sequence: drain the oil, unscrew the bolts connecting the gearbox and the engine, then dismantle the box (although there is a way to replace the clutch without removing the box and draining the oil) and disconnect the bearing from the fork. Afterwards, the VM itself is removed, and a new one is installed in its place. After completing all the work, you need to adjust the clutch, you can learn how to do this from this article.

Let's sum it up

The release bearing, like most other components, suffers from non-compliance with operating rules, as well as the habit of driving with the clutch depressed. At the first sign of a faulty release bearing, take action, otherwise you will have to replace the entire clutch assembly, which costs much more.

Posts 1 to 20 of 73

1 Topic by Slag 2015-10-08 16:44:39 (2015-10-08 16:45:08 edited by Slag)

• Slag
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• From: Dnepropetrovsk
• Registration: 2014-04-23
• Messages: 146 Thanks : 43
• Car: 2111 1.5 16kl. 2002

Topic: Noise from the engine/gearbox when the clutch is depressed - disappears.

Good afternoon. In the morning I start the car, I hear some additional quiet noise from the engine, the noise is more like rustling or friction... idk. I press the clutch and it goes away. The clutch was completely changed about 50 thousand ago. The pedal is pressed easily (I recently changed the cable), the gears are engaged normally. The oil in the box has been running for about 45 thousand. When the engine is warm, the noise seems to disappear.. Tell me what it could be?

2 Reply from iliaBkmz 2015-10-08 16:52:30

• iliaBkmz
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• Registration: 2012-11-12
• Posts: 2,042 Thanks : 584
• Car: outlander and 2104

Re: Noise from the engine/gearbox when the clutch is depressed - disappears.

3 Reply from Slag 2015-10-08 17:50:40

• Slag
• Participant
• Inactive

• From: Dnepropetrovsk
• Registration: 2014-04-23
• Messages: 146 Thanks : 43
• Car: 2111 1.5 16kl. 2002

How can you tell if the release bearing is faulty?

Most cars use a clutch consisting of 2 discs. To separate them when changing gears, a release clutch is created. When the car is moving, it is at rest and starts working after pressing the clutch pedal. Failure of this part makes it impossible to operate the car. If there are clear signs of a faulty release bearing, it must be replaced.

How to extend the resource?

To increase the service life of the device, you must drive on smooth roads. In our country, it is problematic to comply with this condition. Keep in mind that uneven roads destroy not only the vehicle’s chassis, but also the clutch system. Therefore, regular off-road driving is also dangerous for bearings. Don't make mistakes when operating your car. When the car is stopped at a traffic light, there is no need to depress the clutch pedal and engage first gear if you do not plan to move. This should only be done at the beginning of movement, since the part operates under high load conditions. Regular lubrication will increase the service life of the device.

Types of release bearings

Release couplings are divided according to the design of the units into ball and roller and according to the method of transmitting force into mechanical and hydraulic. Older cars (ZAZ, Moskvich 412) used graphite plain bearings. In mechanical units, the part is moved by a fork, to which the force from the pedal is transmitted by a cable. In hydraulic couplings, a special fluid is used as a working fluid; the pedal moves the piston of the clutch master cylinder, which transmits force to the hydraulics. The latter moves the release bearing and disengages the clutch.

Clutch adjustment VAZ 2109

During the operation of the car, there is often a need for ongoing adjustments, settings and fine-tuning of various mechanisms and systems. This is primarily due to wear and tear of certain parts. The clutch of the VAZ 2109 car is a fairly reliable unit, and there are practically no complaints about it. In the event that it is correctly adjusted and all parts comply with factory standards.

Clutch adjustment VAZ 2109

While operating the car, you may notice that the clutch pedal changes its position over time and the stroke increases. This indicates wear on the friction linings of the clutch disc, but this does not mean that it needs to be replaced. It is enough just to make the correct adjustment, and the clutch will operate normally for some time until the linings are completely worn out.

1. We will get acquainted with the design of the clutch drive mechanism later, but now we will consider the adjustment process. It is not complicated and will take a few minutes of time. To adjust, we need a set of keys, more precisely, two 17 keys and a ruler.
2. We measure the working stroke of the clutch pedal. To do this, measure the distance from the center of the pedal working platform to the floor, then press the pedal with your hand all the way and measure this distance as well. As a result, we should get a clutch pedal travel of no more than 135 mm. This is the factory norm, and in this case, if the clutch operates normally, no adjustment is required. If the working stroke differs from the norm more or less, then you need to make a simple adjustment.
3. Open the hood and find the bracket to which the clutch cable housing is attached. The bracket is fixed to the gearbox and has a groove in which the cable casing is secured.
4. Unscrew the locknut. It is located towards the end of the cable.
5. By rotating the adjusting nut located inside the bracket, we achieve the required length of the cable casing.
6. We actively press the pedal several times and re-check the working stroke of the clutch pedal.
7. Having achieved the desired value of the working stroke, tighten the locknut, fixing the casing in the new position.

When to adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2109

The need to adjust the clutch does not arise instantly, but gradually. But if you miss the moment, the consequences can be disappointing

A few signs that it's time to pay attention to the clutch drive:

• the clutch is driving - a clutch that is not completely disengaged results in torque from the engine being constantly transmitted to the gearbox, which can result in difficulty engaging first gear when starting off, as well as when changing gears while driving. The gearbox input shaft will rotate all the time, preventing the gears from engaging. In this case, you can hear the characteristic grinding of gearbox gears, and this is not difficult to understand by the difficulty of shifting gears. In this case, the pedal does not completely disengage the clutch, therefore, the length of the cable casing must be reduced.
• the clutch slips - when the clutch pedal is fully released, the engine cannot transmit all the torque to the gearbox. This happens because the clutch disc is not pressed tightly enough to the engine flywheel and slips. At the same time, it overheats, emitting a characteristic odor that cannot be confused with anything else. To eliminate clutch slipping, lengthen the cable housing.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 2109 clutch drive

Despite the fact that the clutch drive of front-wheel drive VAZ models is designed as simply as possible, there are some parts that can cause the clutch to not operate correctly.

First of all, this is the drive cable itself. The factory cable can last quite a long time, but it also does not last forever. Moreover, the cable always breaks at moments when we do not expect it. Therefore, experienced owners of nines must carry a spare drive cable with them.

A broken cable, as a rule, cannot be repaired, and this is not so necessary. There are many drive cables on sale, but not all of them are of decent quality.

The main thing you should pay attention to when buying a new cable is the careful workmanship in the places where the cable is attached

Maintenance of the VAZ 2109 clutch drive

Only the cable needs maintenance. When replacing it, it is worth lubricating the cable itself, then placing a certain amount of grease under the bellows cap. This lubricant will be enough to ensure that the cable in the housing moves effortlessly and smoothly.

By performing these few simple operations, you will get rid of problems with gear shifting, and you will also be able to adjust the position of the clutch pedal as convenient as possible for driving. Take care of your grip and have smooth roads!

VAZ 2107 - clutch adjustment

General operating principle

On passenger cars, a clutch with a diaphragm pressure spring is used. It replaces engagement levers and coil springs. The element has a flat shape, in the central part of which petals are stamped. They also serve as release levers. When you press the pedal, the fork moves the release clutch, which presses on the spring. Its inner part moves forward, the spring bends and with its outer edge retracts the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch.

When the pedal is released, the parts move in the reverse order. The spring returns to its original state and the clutch engages. Such a device is cheaper than a product with levers and requires fewer adjustments after repair.

Adjusting the VAZ 2109 clutch with your own hands - video

How to properly adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2109?

Owners of VAZ 2108, 2109 and 21099 cars are familiar with problems with the clutch pedal. As we already wrote on our auto portal, VAZ cars have a manual transmission, so to change gears you need to constantly squeeze the clutch to disconnect the transmission from the engine.

VAZs use a dry type of clutch, that is, there is a basket consisting of two parts - driving and driven.

The main elements are the pressure basket and the driven disk; friction linings are installed between them, which wear out over time. As a result, the free play of the clutch pedal increases, it rises slightly, although ideally it should be at the same level as the brake pedal.

Also, the travel of the clutch pedal also increases due to the stretching of the clutch cable, which transmits the force from the pedal to the clutch fork.

If the wear of the friction linings of the feredo disk may require contacting a car repair shop, then in the case of a cable, any more or less technically versed car enthusiast will be able to solve the problem. Let's use the VAZ 2109 as an example to look at how to correctly adjust the free play of the clutch pedal.

Symptoms of the need for adjustment

To identify the symptoms of the need for adjustment, you do not need to go to expensive diagnostics, since you will feel them immediately.

This will cause problems with gear shifting. The pedal may stick, for example, remain in the lowest position and can only be returned to its place manually. When pressed, you will hear extraneous sounds.

An alarming signal is an unpleasant odor from the clutch housing, indicating that the clutch has not been fully depressed and the friction linings are overheating.

Also, all these problems will affect driving safety - the car will twitch and nod while shifting gears, and the engine may stall. Fuel consumption will increase, and the likelihood of more expensive repairs to remove and replace the basket and friction linings will increase. Gears may also stop shifting, which indicates wear on the gears in the manual transmission.

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Therefore, it is better not to delay with adjusting the cable or completely replacing it - and it costs 200-500 rubles at any car market.

Clutch adjustment, work sequence

First, you need to measure how much your pedal stroke has changed. To do this, measure the distance from the floor to the pedal itself in its extreme positions - lower and upper. Using simple arithmetic, you calculate the stroke - it should be within 12.5-13.5 centimeters. Just in case, check the instructions to find out what the free play length of the pedal is for your specific VAZ modification.

If the result obtained differs from the optimal one, adjustments must be made. The stroke can change both up and down.

Then you need to open the hood and find the drive cable. It will be easier to adjust if you remove the battery.

If you twist the nut away from the body, that is, in the direction the car is moving, the cable becomes more tense and the pedal goes down. If it is towards the body, then the pedal, on the contrary, rises.

You need to twist without fanaticism - if the cable is overtightened, it may simply break. In addition, the clutch will slip even more.

If your attempts do not give any result, perhaps the problem lies in the wear of the ferrode, release bearing, or clutch basket itself. In this case, you need to go to the inspection hole, disassemble the clutch cover and carry out more complex work.

Part location

The release bearing, which serves to separate the engine and transmission, is located on the journal of the gearbox input shaft. When you press the pedal, the part moves freely along the shaft towards the clutch pressure plate.

On the back of the bearing there is a spring that holds the fork and prevents the device from rotating. The part consists of the following elements:

• inner race;
• rolling elements (balls or rollers);
• outer casing with a thrust heel and a spring.

The fork fits into the gearbox mount and is secured to the outer bearing housing. On the other side, a cable is attached that transmits force from the clutch pedal.

Replacing the clutch in the field

Immediately after the new year, on January 7, I finally changed the clutch in the field, and at the same time changed the clutch master and slave cylinders.

Replacing the clutch on a field and on a single-wheel drive is a completely different task in terms of labor intensity. I changed my clutch for two days, although I did a lot of other things along the way. It is highly advisable to call a friend for help.

I managed to do everything alone, but next time I will try to do it with an assistant.

So, let's begin our difficult journey. Replacing a clutch in a field is one and a half times more troublesome than on a conventional front-wheel drive. The Niva also has a transfer case and two cardan drives, all of which are bolted together and to the gearbox. The photo shows that the front driveshaft has already been removed.

A picturesque view of the razdatka, then RK. In principle, there is no point in completely unscrewing the rear driveshaft. Simply unscrew the RK from the flange and put it aside. As in the photo.

I remember that year I wrote a little about the intermediate shaft. He became the reason for leaving the trophy raid on the first jersey. In the photo, the new shaft for 21213 is a CV joint, one part of it is essentially a standard “grenade”. The old-style crosspiece cannot be found in stores, which is sad.

There are some being analyzed and I think I heard that they are making non-original ones. I didn’t buy it right away, I needed to drive it, so I took the standard one again. Its peculiarity is that if damaged, the car is immobilized.

On the old cross shaft, according to people’s stories, you can somehow slowly get to the repair site.

In order to remove the steering wheel, it is necessary to release the locking and downshift levers from above. To do this, the entire manual transmission cover is removed. The casing is on large self-tapping screws, for a Phillips screwdriver. Under the casing, right from the cabin, we can see the donut of the washout.

Then we go down under the car and unscrew the transfer case supports. But before doing this, using an awl, scissors, or something sharp, we outline the position of the supports relative to the bottom. In the photo you can see a mark around the studs - that's what it is - marks. We need to put the transfer case in the same position when we put it back.

Using a 13mm ratchet with a long head, unscrew the nuts from the studs, 4 of them, two for each support. Next you will need an assistant or your own stupidity. We grab the transfer case and carefully remove it so as not to damage the studs. One of the most annoying problems with old fields is the transfer case studs.

If it breaks off, rots, or the threads come off, it will be difficult to secure the transfer case properly. There will be noise and vibration. You can change the stud by drilling it out from inside. I had to do just that, but now the inserted bolt must be unscrewed while holding it both in the cabin and under the bottom of the car.

Well, yes - it needs to be welded, I agree. I'll finish it in the spring.

Next we will remove the gearbox. In the photo we are looking at the gearbox shaft flange, to which the intermediate shaft between the gearbox and the gearbox is screwed. I didn’t film the filming process itself, since I was filming alone and getting my hands dirty, and it was inconvenient to photograph.

The gearbox bell is bolted to the engine block with four bolts

Like 17 or 19 - I don’t remember, and it doesn’t really matter. The main thing is that you need heads with extensions, you can’t get to them that easily

It seems difficult the first time, but in reality you just need a ratchet with a good extension cord.

And this is the transfer case removed, placed closer to the rear axle so that it doesn’t get in the way

Having removed the gearbox, I try on a bearing on it.

Clutch disc from original kit. Of course, it would be more correct to install a clutch from a Chevy Niva. The original clutch 21213 is a mutant from classic and eight spare parts. The clutch from 2123 has undeniable advantages - it is two or three times more durable, softer, the disc is larger in diameter and area. But the price is twice as expensive.

And this is a new basket

It's time to install everything on the flywheel. In the photo everything is already screwed on. Those who change the clutch themselves for the first time need to know that to center the disc and basket it is necessary to use the gearbox input shaft. It can be taken from the gearbox by disassembling it and sawing it off with a grinder. The end of the input shaft protrudes from the bell housing, where the bearing fits.

Also interesting: Tuning a Niva 4x4 with your own hands: updating the interior of the Lada VAZ-2121

Possible causes of failure

Loads on the release bearing occur when the clutch is disengaged. The higher the engine speed at the moment of gear shifting, the more intense its operating mode. The most common reasons for part failure are:

1. Holding the clutch pedal down for a long time. High rotation speed and large axial forces from the diaphragm spring lead to rapid wear of the device elements.
2. Abrupt engagement and disengagement of the clutch. Characteristic of aggressive driving style. Instant uneven loads occur on the bearing, which can lead to failure of not only the rotating part and the pressure fork, but also the clutch elements.
3. Poor adjustment of pedal or cable travel. The bearing is in constant contact with the surface of the spring. Constant rotation causes heating of the rolling elements, which leads to rapid wear.

Part destruction may occur due to the installation of a low-quality product or lack of grease in the release clutch cavity.

Clutch slipping after replacing all its parts

After replacing all elements, adjustment is required, but many car owners ignore this point. The cause is slipping, the car accelerates slowly, the engine speed does not correspond to the speed of the car. The engine just roars, and the car is driving quite slowly, as they say, slipping.

In cars with a mechanical clutch cable, adjustment is made by the cable itself. In hydraulically driven machines, this process is carried out using a clutch rod. In modern cars, you often come across rods that do not have adjustments. But this does not mean at all that it cannot be produced. In such cases, adjustment of the clutch pedal itself is provided, but not everyone knows about this possibility. » alt=»»>

Signs of malfunctioning parts

The release clutch can fail not only due to improper use, but also due to natural wear and tear. Knowing the operating principle of the device, you can determine its technical condition based on its characteristic symptoms. Typical symptoms of a malfunction are:

1. The occurrence of extraneous noise when pressing the clutch pedal. The destruction of the node is accompanied by a grinding or loud crunch.
2. Gear shift drive sticking. Sometimes it is impossible to turn on the desired speed.
3. Excessively free play of the clutch pedal.
4. Incomplete engagement or disengagement of the clutch. The situation may be accompanied by an unpleasant burning smell.

How the gearbox works on Kalina

The gearbox on the Lada Kalina is a complex structure, the elements of which differ depending on the model and type of box.

Until 2013, Kalinas (first generation Kalina Sport, hatchback, station wagon, sedan) had a 5-speed manual transmission 1118, although in the last year (2013) it was possible to find cars with 2181 gearboxes with a cable drive. Gearbox 1118 is a transitional model, designed for torque up to 145 Newton/meter (Nm).

Gearbox "Lada Kalina", gearbox shafts

The second generation (“Kalina Sport”, hatchback, station wagon, cross) has a box 2180 (16-valve engines) and 2181 (8-valve engines).

Box 2181 consists of the following elements:

• primary and secondary shafts;
• gears and clutches for each speed;
• reduction gear;
• gear forks and their shift mechanism;
• a reverse gear sensor, including a corresponding lamp;
• clutch housing;
• Instead of traction, two cables are used.

The first two gears are equipped with multi-cone synchronizers.

The design of the Lada robotic transmission (2182) is based on the 2180 transmission, but in this case the control is carried out by the system.

Gear shift lever for Lada Kalina

The mechanism is represented by the following components:

• clutch and gear actuators;
• clutch fork;
• speed sensor.

Gear shifting is carried out by electric motors and a gear selection and engagement drive.

The special feature of AMT is the electric drive of the clutch disc.

An automatic transmission, or automatic gearbox, is installed on the 2nd generation Lada Kalina with a 16-valve 1.6-liter engine. Simplified, the box mechanism can be represented as:

• gearbox range switch;
• automatic transmission connector;
• control valve block;
• secondary shaft speed sensor (vehicle speed).

The automatic transmission has four stages and is manufactured by the Japanese company Jatco JF414E (AY-K3). Management is electronic. The operating mode of the box is selected by switching the lever to the desired position - P, R, D and N (parking, reverse, drive, neutral).

Box body with internal elements

Despite the fact that many drivers use the “neutral” mode to coast during a long descent, or hold the lever in this position when switching modes, the instructions for the automatic transmission do not recommend doing this. This is due to the fact that the engine is disconnected from the transmission in this mode, which allows the vehicle to be transported at low speed, but driving at high speeds can lead to breakage of the box, as well as the constant processes of disconnecting/attaching the engine to the box.

The design features a reduced ground clearance, as well as an aluminum pan that covers the engine. To avoid mechanical damage to the pallet, it is recommended that immediately after purchasing the car, replace it with a more durable one, for example, a steel one.

How to change the clutch bearing yourself?

When replacing any part of the clutch mechanism, it is recommended to install a new release device. Its price is low, so you shouldn’t skimp on buying a part, even if it has not reached its intended service life. The work of replacing the clutch release bearing is not too complicated, so you can do it yourself if you have the necessary tools and some repair skills. To install a new part, you need to perform the following steps sequentially:

1. Remove the gearbox and disconnect the pressure fork from the clutch.
2. Remove the bearing from the transmission input shaft.
3. Remove the spring clip from the piece of the outer body of the part.
4. Check the new part for ease of rotation and presence of lubrication.
5. Install the spring retainer onto the coupling.
6. Place the assembly onto the gearbox shaft.
7. Connect the plug to the coin and secure with a spring.
8. Reinstall the gearbox.

After assembly is completed, adjust the drive if necessary . To check the operation of the replaced unit, you need to start the engine and squeeze the clutch. If no extraneous sounds are heard, it means the work was done correctly.

Replacing a unit at a service station should be carried out in cases where there is no confidence in the quality of the operation with your own hands.

Video “Guide to replacing and lubricating parts”

Channel “Engine Repair! And interesting!” offers to familiarize yourself with the procedure for replacing the release bearing device and its lubrication in its roller.

Do you have any questions? Specialists and readers of the AUTODVIG website will help you ask a question

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Types and design features

In the design of a car clutch, two types of release bearings are used:

1. Mechanical.
2. Hydraulic.

The main elements of release bearings are closed ball or roller bearings. They are used on both mechanical and hydraulic types of products. Their design also includes a housing.

In mechanical elements, this housing is designed to interact with the clutch drive fork. Such units can have a very different design (the housing is presented in the form of a bushing inserted into the inner race, or it is installed on the outer ring), but all housings have special protrusions on which the fork acts. In general, in mechanical bearings, housings are designed for just this.

Clutch diagram of a VAZ car - 2107 1 - flywheel; 2 — clutch driven disc; 3 — clutch basket; 4 — release bearing with clutch; 5 — hydraulic clutch reservoir; 6 - hose; 7 — master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 8 — servo spring of the clutch pedal; 9 — clutch pedal return spring; 10 — clutch pedal travel limit screw; 11 — clutch pedal; 12 — hydraulic clutch release pipeline; 13 — ball joint fork; 14 — clutch release fork; 15 — release spring for clutch release fork; 16 - hose; 17 — working cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 18 — clutch bleeder fitting

In hydraulic release bearings, the housing design is more complex because it acts as a hydraulic cylinder. The essence of his work is this: the driver, by pressing the pedal, creates fluid pressure in the clutch drive. This fluid enters the housing and squeezes out the hydraulic cylinder piston with the bearing attached to it. The housing itself in this design does not move along with the thrust element, which makes it possible to rigidly fix it with bolts to the clutch housing.

Signs of a faulty mechanism

The only sign of a faulty release bearing is an unusual sound (noise, whistling, knocking) when the clutch pedal is depressed, which disappears when the pedal is returned to its place. In winter, in severe frosts, noise is often heard when the clutch is engaged, but you should not pay much attention to this, since the materials from which the mechanism parts are made react differently to temperature changes, and the sounds disappear during the warming up process. There are no external, visible malfunctions of the unit, since the bearing is located in the clutch housing. The regular appearance of noise with each press of the clutch pedal indicates an imminent replacement of the release bearing. Unusual sounds occurring when the clutch is depressed indicate a malfunction in the gearbox.

Where is it used?

Automakers use this element on systems with two disks - a slave and a master. The first element receives torque from the second and transmits it to the transmission. Further, through the cardan transmission, the force is transmitted to the gearbox, and then to the wheels. The drive disc is tightly secured to the crankshaft. In order for the driver to move from one gear to another (no matter whether it is high or low), it is necessary to separate these two elements. This operation is carried out precisely thanks to the bearing. The force is controlled by pressing the clutch pedal. When it is pressed to the floor, the transmission of torque stops - the bearing rotates at the same speed as the flywheel. As it is released, the two disks are connected to each other. At this time, high loads are observed on the clutch release bearing. Malfunctions of these elements arise precisely because of heavy loads.

It is worth noting that while driving, when the car is in gear, this element is in a calm state. But as soon as you need to switch to the next or previous speed, it immediately starts working. Despite its small size, this element performs an important function. In the event of any malfunction, further operation of the vehicle will be impossible or difficult. Therefore, at the first symptoms you should pay attention to it. What signs of malfunction does the clutch release bearing have (Kalina included), we will consider further.

How to get rid of the whine of a Lada Granta box

I forgot to add that the rear bearings in the housing cannot just turn, they are clamped by a plate. There is no tight fit, only clamping with a plate, again, the factory tolerances are violated, everything must be measured during the assembly process, and the plate must be new, and tighten the screws with an impact screwdriver; do not tighten them to the required torque by hand.

Everything that is written here about the checkpoint is all at the level of speculation, and not knowledge of the technical part. Think theoretically, when the car is parked and the engine is at idle, then only the input shaft rotates in the gearbox, and only two bearings work with it. Roller front and ball rear. The ball knocks on very rare occasions, this is if he is really fucked up, mostly he howls. But the roller one makes a knock if it is of poor quality. It would take a long time to explain the nature of the knock; it has to do with the clutch disc and wear on the splines of the shaft and disc, and again the quality of the workmanship. Sometimes the gears on the secondary shaft jangle, they rotate, but the shaft stands still. At the factory they don't bother with quality. If all tolerances are met, the gearbox will work quietly, but for this you need to have several sets of gears and bearings, and select all this, which is impossible at home. The main couple howls as they walk, there’s nothing you can do about it. To reduce the howling, use additives, I poured VMP Auto.

Hi, what kind of thread locker is this? Do you have a number?

there are plates fixing the shafts, SKF bearings come from the factory to the 2181 gearbox

Great. I also tried it myself and everything is fine too. It’s just that when I did it myself, many people wrote to me in the comments that everything came back for them.

If the bearings start turning again on the outer race, everything will come back again. It's not even a matter of new bearings; the old ones turned out to be no worse than the new ones. The fit in the body of the box itself is simply loose. Therefore, the output was placed on a clamp.

Diagnostics and repair

As for transmission repair, it is very important to first carry out a correct diagnosis of a possible malfunction of the unit, try to determine why the gearbox makes a howling noise without removing the unit. Usually the box does not howl in all modes, but at some speeds. If a howl accompanies movement in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, then this usually indicates problems with the bearing connecting the primary and secondary shafts, or more precisely, its wear. The only solution is to replace it. But there is a small nuance - if the bearing is a needle bearing without a cage, then simply replacing the needles may not help. This will require replacement of the shafts. And this is already a serious repair.

It is also possible that there may be a howling noise when the working pair of gears located on the primary and secondary shafts of these gears wear out. Or due to poor quality factory processing and installation after repair. One of the characteristic features of gear wear is howling under load and its reduction in the absence of traction. A worn bearing will make noise regardless of whether there is a load or not. But you can determine the exact reasons only by disassembling the gearbox and showing it to a specialist if the repair is done by yourself.

If there is a whine in 5th gear, the first thing that needs to be done is to check and add oil to the unit if necessary, as discussed earlier. But if this does not help, then most likely the fifth gear gear needs to be replaced. This is determined by opening the box. Preliminarily, by the sound at high speed, you can determine the cause - if there is an obvious whine, the gear is worn out; if there is a squeaking sound over 100 km/h, it is most likely the bearing.

Replacing bearings

If the gearbox of front-wheel drive cars howls in all gears, then there is a high probability of wear on the input shaft bearing. But replacing it often does not lead to a positive result, so changing it in the presence of minor howling is not recommended.

Or maybe it's not a box at all?

When diagnosing a gearbox, be sure to carefully consider the fact that if there is a constantly increasing howl in all gears, it may not be only the gearbox that is to blame for the origin of the sounds. On models with a classic drive, the source of the howl may be the rear axle gearbox, which has a bevel hypoid gear. If the gear teeth are worn out or there is significant play in the bearings, a howl will accompany all driving modes. Similar symptoms also accompany an all-wheel drive vehicle when the front axle malfunctions. The sound will come from the center of the cabin and be observed under load.

Replacing Grant cable gearbox bearings without removal — search on DRIVE2

Replacement of rear bearings of gearbox 2181 - Lada Granta.

Review from the owner of Lada Grant

I decided to carry out the repair by removing the box because I wanted...

I decided to carry out the repair by removing the box, since I also wanted to solve the issue of the dry splined primary shaft, and at the same time look at the condition.

Replacing the Grant clutch. — Lada Granta, 1.6 l., 2013.

normal, engine 186, gearbox 2181, mileage 31t. with kopecks, 3 years like from the assembly line.

10 We unscrew the lower flywheel screen (three bolts with a key *10*) last, before removing the box, since this bolt (see below in the photo) is not convenient to unscrew and the screen itself.

Bearings Lada Granta

This inexpensive but relatively comfortable car produced by AvtoVAZ OJSC, according to the developers, will soon become a favorite of Russian car enthusiasts, since it combines such qualities as comfort, reliability, safety and, most importantly, a low price for its class.

As in other VAZ models, domestically produced bearings are installed here. This material covers the nomenclature of these products used in cars, as well as their imported analogues (do not forget that Chinese bearing manufacturers, and, for example, the Vologda Bearing Plant (VBF), which is among For some reason, motorists are considered the standard of quality, although VAZ mainly uses bearings from the European Bearing Corporation (Volzhsky and Saratov Bearing Plants)).

List of bearings used in the Lada Granta car that can be easily replaced

To view information on a specific bearing, simply click on the number.

It should be noted that in the vehicle documentation, bearing numbers are often indicated with a lot of additional (and often long-outdated) letter designations, which you can ignore. The same applies to accuracy class 6. Nowadays, quality standards are implemented in such a way that bearings with a declared class 6 from one manufacturer can be an order of magnitude worse than the zero class of another.

AVTOVAZ’s developments do not stand still, and in 2013 the company’s management, together with the design department, decided to switch to a new type of cable-driven gearbox. These gearboxes are installed on Lada Granta and Kalina 2 cars.

Appearance of the gearbox

Design and differences of a cable-driven gearbox

Unlike a conventional gearbox, the cable-driven gearbox has received some improvements and upgrades.

VAZ-2181 gearbox with cable drive

In order to understand how everything works, let’s compare a standard gearbox labeled VAZ-2180 and the new VAZ-2181:

• To reduce the vibration generated by the traction drive gearbox, cables from the manufacturer Atsumitec were installed.
• To reduce the effort for shifting 1st and 2nd gears, the manufacturer installed multi-cone synchronizers.
• The clutch size has increased to 215 mm.
• Due to changes in the transmission design, the starter had to be positioned along the engine rather than the gearbox.
• To facilitate gear shifting, it was necessary to reduce the bevel angle of the synchronizer teeth from 125 degrees to 100.
• To eliminate oil leaks, the designers moved the gear selection mechanism to the top. But this nuance gave impetus to the development of a new switching scheme and design changes.
• The volume of lubricant poured has decreased from 3.3 liters to 2.2 liters.
• A selector plate is installed, which allows you to change gears more clearly.
• The transition from mineral oil to semi-synthetic oil has been completed.
• To prevent accidental reverse gear, a special lock was developed.

The main elements and components that go into the design of the new gearbox can be seen in the figures below:

Gearbox diagram and decoding of its main elements

1. main drive drive gear;
2. secondary shaft;
3. input shaft;
4. fifth gear shift fork;
5. third and fourth gear shift fork;
6. reverse light switch;
7. clutch housing;
8. gear shift mechanism;
9. central lock.

VAZ-2181 box synchronizer device

1 – first gear gear; 2 – intermediate rings; 3 – blocking ring; 4 – synchronizer clutch; 5 – synchronizer clutch hub; 6 – clamp; 7 – second gear gear.

Gear selection mechanism

1 – gear selector levers; 2 – selector grid pin; 3 – selector grid; 4 – reverse locking mechanism; 5 – central three-dimensional plate.

Full view of a cable-driven gearbox

Thus, the manufacturer decided to improve and modernize the gearbox, which was unreliable and had a lot of problems. Due to the new improved system, vibration in the body and gear knob has been reduced. The gears switched on, started more clearly, and the huge backlashes disappeared.

Diagnostics and repair

As for transmission repair, it is very important to first carry out a correct diagnosis of a possible malfunction of the unit, try to determine why the gearbox makes a howling noise without removing the unit. Usually the box does not howl in all modes, but at some speeds. If a howl accompanies movement in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, then this usually indicates problems with the bearing connecting the primary and secondary shafts, or more precisely, its wear. The only solution is to replace it. But there is a small nuance - if the bearing is a needle bearing without a cage, then simply replacing the needles may not help. This will require replacement of the shafts. And this is already a serious repair.

It is also possible that there may be a howling noise when the working pair of gears located on the primary and secondary shafts of these gears wear out. Or due to poor quality factory processing and installation after repair. One of the characteristic features of gear wear is howling under load and its reduction in the absence of traction. A worn bearing will make noise regardless of whether there is a load or not. But you can determine the exact reasons only by disassembling the gearbox and showing it to a specialist if the repair is done by yourself.

If there is a whine in 5th gear, the first thing that needs to be done is to check and add oil to the unit if necessary, as discussed earlier. But if this does not help, then most likely the fifth gear gear needs to be replaced. This is determined by opening the box. Preliminarily, by the sound at high speed, you can determine the cause - if there is an obvious whine, the gear is worn out; if there is a squeaking sound over 100 km/h, it is most likely the bearing.

If the gearbox of front-wheel drive cars howls in all gears, then there is a high probability of wear on the input shaft bearing. But replacing it often does not lead to a positive result, so changing it in the presence of minor howling is not recommended.

Standard clutch - article number and price

The VAZ 2170 Priora comes from the factory with a clutch manufactured by LUK. Catalog number (article): 21703-1601130-00. You can find it at a price of two thousand rubles, and if you do not need the entire set of the mechanism (not counting the drive mechanism), you can find the parts by catalog numbers:

1. Clutch assembly (release bearing): 21703-1601180-10;
2. Driven disk: 21703-1601130-00;
3. Pressure plate assembly: 21703-1601085-00;
4. Bolt: 21080:1601207-00.

The “native” LUK kit is considered “softer” than its analogues and, moreover, comes with a reinforced basket.