Lost engine thrust on VAZ 2114 (8 valves, injector) – TOP 10 reasons

Lost engine thrust on VAZ 2114 (8 valves, injector) - TOP 10 reasons

Unfortunately, many owners are familiar with the situation when the traction on a VAZ 2114 (8 valves, injector) suddenly disappeared. There may be many reasons for this, but the main ones are 10. And not all of them are related to the fuel system or sensors. Sometimes there are more serious problems. From this article you can learn the main causes of this phenomenon, their signs and methods of detection.

Doesn't respond to the gas pedal. VAZ 2114

to 92serega9229: did you adapt the throttle?

turn on the ignition and wait 1 minute, turn off, start

I encountered such a problem, the VAZ 2115 reacts to pressing the gas pedal after 5 seconds and when the pedal is pressed to the floor it picks up speed very slowly, it also stalls when downshifting, the engine also very quickly reaches operating temperature, and after parking, I discovered that the antifreeze had boiled.

By process of elimination we realized that the problem was not in the engine, not in the throttle sensor, not in the air flow sensor, not in the gas tank mesh, not in the fine filter. Does anyone know what this could be?

VipeRUS34:

The engine reaches operating temperature very quickly, and after parking, I discovered that the antifreeze had boiled.

The catalyst is completely clogged. (if installed) The timing marks are knocked off.

I had the same bullshit

I press on the gas, the engine is running, but it seems that the cable has broken, it turned out that the generator was giving a weak charge. We replaced the bridge and brushes on the generator and everything is OK.

Work 800r. spare parts 900r. Good luck to all.

And what does the generator have to do with the gas pedal, you’re thinking wrong, there’s no connection

Tell me, VAZ 2114 8th class 2011!

I start it up, it idles perfectly, but the gas pedal doesn’t respond at all, as if I’m not pressing it! I’ll turn it off and start it back to normal, but not for long then again! She can hold it at 2000 rpm herself, while still not obeying the gas pedal!

The check light is on, I took it for diagnostics, they said the throttle valve, changed it, nothing changed!

to Auto(grandfather):

Hello, I have the same problem: the rpm hangs at 2000, the pedal does not respond and the check light is on. Auto VAZ 2114 2012 electric pedal, according to many recommendations, a lot has already been replaced: air filter, throttle body, air flow sensor, spark plugs, armored wires, fuel filter, generator damper pulley (the rubber was cracked) with an iron one from crankshaft position sensors, but the problem does not change nothing and keeps appearing, what can you tell me?

TPS is out of order

The throttle position sensor is another suspect. The symptoms are similar to IAC, except that when moving away smoothly the car will do so jerkily. The sensor is also located on the throttle in the area where the throttle cable is connected.

The test can be done using a multimeter. If TPS is installed on the car, then open the throttle and watch the tester readings, they should change smoothly. If removed, then use a screwdriver and also look at the readings.

Features of failures

What all pedal failures have in common is that when you press the pedal, the engine does not respond in a timely manner, and therefore does not gain momentum. Such failures can appear in different situations and the behavior of the machine can also be different.

So, we can highlight:

1. Short dips while driving (no more than a couple of seconds) followed by a quick response from the engine.
2. Dips during acceleration.
3. Dips at idle speed.
4. Prolonged failures, as a result of which the car stalls.
5. Jerking, characterized by a series of alternating short dips and subsequent jerks.

There are not many reasons for this phenomenon, so finding and eliminating them will not be difficult for an experienced driver.

In 99% of cases, failures can be caused by one of the following reasons:

• clogged injectors;
• damage to the fuel system;
• injector damage;
• wear of temperature sensors;
• errors in the ECU;
• failure of spark plugs.

If you notice even minor changes in the “behavior” of the engine, you should end the trip as quickly as possible and visit a car service center or perform independent diagnostics and repairs. Continuing to drive a car with dips is not only harmful to the car itself, but also extremely dangerous.

Self-diagnosis in the garage

If you have problems with the operation of the injection system, you should first diagnose the ECU. In this regard, the owners of the VAZ 2114 are more fortunate with the German VDO instrumentation - it has a self-diagnosis mode. On cars with a dashboard from Schetmash there is no such functionality.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

Working with the self-diagnosis mode on the VDO panel is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• With the ignition off, hold the odometer button for several seconds;
• turn the ignition to position “1”, release the button;
• if the arrows start running on the display, everything is fine, press once (information message about the firmware version) and release, with a second press an error code will appear;
• You can reset the error by holding the button until “0” appears.

Injection problems that cause the car to stall can be indicated by the numbers 1 (ECU error), 14,15 (coolant sensor errors), 22, 23 (DPS errors), 33, 34 (MAF errors), 42 (ignition malfunction) , 44, 45 (lean or rich mixture). The disadvantage of self-diagnosis on the VAZ 2114 is that if there are several errors, the system sums up the codes. Thus, the number “22” may mean a TPS error or low on-board voltage and a coolant sensor error (8 + 14).

For more accurate diagnostics of the injector, you need to immediately contact a service center or purchase a diagnostic scanner (it costs about 1000 rubles).

If you have another car, you can find the problematic sensor by replacing the sensitive elements one by one with known good ones.

Dips during acceleration

Most often, in the VAZ 2114 car, failures when pressing the gas injector occur during acceleration.

If you are faced with a similar situation, then the search for its problem should be carried out in the following sequence:

1. If the spark plugs are oxidized or covered with soot, they should be cleaned with a cloth with kerosene or fine sandpaper (or replaced if they cannot be restored). In addition, the composition of the fuel mixture should be adjusted, since very often the cause of soot on the spark plugs is precisely its incorrect composition.

1. Check the condition of the armored wires (to do this, their insulation should be measured using a megohmmeter and, if necessary, replaced with new ones).
2. Check the condition of the throttle valve. If it is contaminated with plaque, it should be thoroughly cleaned (even a slight layer of plaque greatly affects the proper operation of the damper).
3. Check the condition of the air filter, and in case of severe contamination or damage, replace it with a new one (it is worth remembering that the filter directly affects the correct composition of the combustible mixture, and therefore it should be checked periodically even during normal engine operation).
4. If, after completing the above steps, the cause could not be found, then you should dismantle the fuel pump and check its functionality. At the same time, the fuel filter should be checked and, if necessary, replaced.
5. Check the computer for errors (this can be done using a diagnostic computer. If it is not available, you will have to contact a car repair shop).
6. Conduct diagnostics of the injectors and, if necessary, clean them (clogged injectors are the most rare cause of failures, but at the same time they are quite difficult to do on your own. If you cannot clean them yourself, you will have to contact a car service).

If on your VAZ 2114 failures occur when you press the gas injector while driving, then using the above plan you can easily find the causes of this phenomenon and be able to eliminate it.

Replacement

Any DIY repair requires preparation. Before dismantling/installing the idle speed sensor on your VAZ 2115, you should select a location. It is advisable to work on the car in a well-lit garage. It is also necessary to prepare the tool. On 8-valve engines, some craftsmen remove the IAC without dismantling the throttle assembly, but on the condition that the lower screw can be unscrewed.

On 16-valve internal combustion engines, disassembly is indispensable. You will need a medium-sized, heavy-duty Phillips screwdriver, a 13mm socket wrench, WD-40 lubricant, aerosol carburetor cleaner, and a rag. Also, there is a gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. Due to prolonged use, it may be in poor condition. It’s better to buy a new one in advance (30–40 rubles). The replacement process looks like this:

1. Set the car to the handbrake.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
3. Remove the engine protective screen (for 1.6).
4. Loosen the clamps on the crankcase exhaust pipe and the corrugated pipe.
5. Disconnect the corrugation from the throttle assembly.
6. Remove the upper idle crankcase ventilation pipe.
7. Remove the throttle cable.
8. Unscrew the 2 fastening nuts of the remote control and remove it from the studs.
9. On the left, below, find the location of the IAC.
10. Unplug the power plug from the sensor.
11. Unscrew the 2 screws of the regulator using a Phillips screwdriver.
12. Clean the remote control from carbon deposits and dirt using carburetor cleaner.
13. Coat the rubber ring of the regulator with machine oil.
14. Install the IAC into the throttle mechanism.
15. Collect everything in reverse chronology.

Dips at idle

Sometimes it happens that when you press the gas pedal, a drop in the speed of the VAZ 2114 occurs at idle (and most often when starting off). The reasons for this phenomenon are quite similar to the reasons for failures in movement.

Let's consider a plan for finding and eliminating them:

1. Check the condition of the spark plugs and the gap size. Clean them (how to do this was discussed above) or replace them.
2. Check the condition of high-voltage wires.

1. Replace the fuel filter (and if the replacement does not help, check the operation of the gasoline pump).
2. Check the functionality of the temperature control sensor and idle speed sensor. If they turn out to be faulty, replace them (there is no point in trying to repair the sensors, since they are not repairable).
3. Check the electronic unit using a diagnostic adapter and delete errors if any.

1. Completely replace the fuel with gasoline from another gas station (very often low-quality fuel causes dips and jerking at idle).
2. Carry out diagnostics of the injector.
3. Check the condition of the injectors and clean them if necessary.

Troubleshooting options

It is clear that if any emergency situations arise with the motor, it is advisable to contact a specialized service. However, this procedure is not always possible. Therefore, it is worth knowing how to independently diagnose the main systems and key parts.

Throttle valve and assembly

When the speed drops at idle and the car stalls, you need to pay close attention to the details of the throttle assembly. Long-term operation of the car on low-quality fuel and untimely maintenance of the air filter can lead to malfunctions of the throttle valve. It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment

It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment.

Throttle valve VAZ 2112

The problem can be solved by cleaning the system. The throttle is cleaned using carburetor cleaners. Using a compressor, you need to blow out the damper under the pressure of compressed air. It is not recommended to touch the screws located inside and on the side. If cleaning does not correct the situation, the device must be replaced. This operation is not particularly difficult.

Crankcase malfunction

There is an oil trap in the crankcase ventilation system of the engine. Its contamination can also lead to interruptions in engine operation. Crankcase gases do not allow the engine to function normally, the speed fluctuates, the internal combustion engine stalls.

Sensors

If a gasoline car stalls at idle, then one of the sensors is likely to break. In injection cars with an electronic engine control system, the engine usually starts normally, but then it stops working. It's worth checking here:

• Electronic car indicators;
• DRХХ – device that regulates idle speed;
• Air flow meter (air intake in the carburetor);
• Sensor indicating the position of the throttle curtain.

Electronic control unit in VAZ 2114

Interruptions in the operation of any sensors immediately affect the behavior of the electronics - errors appear in the car control unit. The “brains” of the machine receive unreliable information. It is not transmitted correctly to the engine. It starts working with parameters that do not correspond to reality. Self-testing of this device is not possible. You need to contact a professional for service.

Diagnostics of mass air flow sensor

The idle air control device is usually to blame for engine malfunction when the car idles poorly. But you pressed the gas pedal and the engine started. In the latest VAZ modifications, error information appears on the instrument panel.

When diagnosing, you must use a multimeter. If a part is faulty, it is recommended to replace it with a new one. All sensors are reasonably priced. It is better to start checking with parts that have a simpler design. Then gradually move on to complex devices. We must not forget that the problem may lie not only in the sensors themselves. It is also necessary to check the wiring to them and the presence of stable contact.

Carburetor

If the VAZ carburetor stalls at idle speed, then the jets may become clogged. Low-quality gasoline, deposits from the gas tank, contain small particles of debris. They can easily disrupt the operation of the fuel injection system. It is worth replacing the filter in front of the carburetor and cleaning the device itself. The dispensing part is cleaned using a cleaning solvent, which is sold in aerosol cans. Another reason is often a prolonged lack of carburetor adjustment.

In a mechanical fuel pump of carburetor cars, the filter mesh may be clogged with dirt. This reduces the performance of the device. Wear of the membrane and its destruction often leads to clogged carburetor channels.

Injector

A situation that often arises is that various Lada models, as well as the VAZ 2110 injector stalls at idle. It is necessary to check the fuel pump strainer for clogging. This is a common problem with injection machines. It is better to immediately replace the part with a working one.

Filter problem

If the VAZ 2112 stalls at idle, then the fuel filter may be dirty. This also applies to other models of the concern. Generally, it is not practical to clean it. The part must be replaced. The same should be done with a dirty air filter. Low throughput leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture simply floods the spark plugs.

Self-checking will not always lead to a positive result. It is often more practical to identify the cause of unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at a car service center. It will cost more, but specialized diagnostics will prevent more serious damage to the car.

How to Avoid Failures

Having talked about how to eliminate gas pedal failures that occur on a car, it is worth talking about how to completely avoid their occurrence. So, the most common cause of their occurrence is wear of the spark plugs. Therefore, you should always check their condition, prevent clogging and oxidation, and, if necessary, replace them.

It is worth remembering that it is highly recommended to replace spark plugs as a “set”, even if only one of them is seriously damaged.

In addition to spark plugs, high-voltage wires should also be periodically monitored (despite the fact that they have a long service life, core breaks and breakdowns of protection are far from uncommon).

Another very common cause is clogged filters, and especially the air filter. This element is a direct participant in the chain of formation of the working mixture, and that is why its contamination (or even damage) can immediately affect the operation of the engine.

The last thing you should pay attention to in order to avoid unpleasant gas failures is the quality of the fuel. If you notice that at the nearest gas station it has dropped significantly (and the car reacts to this), then you should not continue to use it - it is better to try refueling at a pump of another company (or several companies). In this way, you can find the highest quality gas station and ensure reliable operation of your car’s engine.

Solving the problem of deteriorating vehicle traction

ZMZ-409 engineZMZ 409 engine In any case, the problem of a drop in vehicle power cannot be ignored. Having made itself felt today, it will progress every day and cause more and more inconvenience and will ultimately damage the engine. Timely computer diagnostics and a thorough inspection of the machine by a qualified specialist will help you get rid of the problem.

Replacing spark plugs, high-voltage wires, and an air filter can, of course, be done on your own if the need arises. But if, after installing new parts, the behavior of your personal vehicle has not changed for the better, it is worth sending it for diagnostics to a specialized service, where experienced technicians will diagnose the cause of the deterioration in traction of your car.

Source

Gas disappears while driving VAZ 2114

Messages: 279 Registered: Mar 14, 2011, 00:00

Thanked: 2 times

Posted by daseros » April 19, 2012, 10:17 am

What the heck is a gearbox on a front-wheel drive? Check the pump, spark plugs, wires and fuel pressure regulator. And of course all the meshes and filters

Added after 2 minutes 1 second:

clutch when you squeeze the gas, that is, I don’t understand? If there is a stable one, then the clutch is screwed

Repair of the chassis of FOREIGN CARs and VAZs (front-wheel drive on the VAZ)

It’s better to write to Kara in advance in a personal message

Messages: 284 Registered: Dec 09, 2009, 00:00 Experience: From an early age. Auto: favorite

Message 777KoT777 » April 19, 2012, 11:17

Messages: 211 Registered: May 24, 2011, 00:00 Experience: since 2007 Car: 2114

Post by Mushanya12 » April 19, 2012, 11:30

Messages: 662 Registered: July 10, 2006, 00:00 Experience: since 1986 (1.2 million km) :

VAZ 2114 check light comes on, traction disappears

In the morning I left for work, everything was ok, after work I came down from the bridge, green, first and nothing @((, as if I was pulling 8 Kirov residents, there was no traction, gas to the floor and empty, somehow I got to the house and stood in the middle of the street ((, first since it’s such crap, I unscrew the spark plugs, white coating, trouble, sadness, poor mixture ((too much air, not enough gas ((dmrv? fuel pump? injectors? wires? spark plugs, sensors? even moreover, it has already started to wobble at idle speed 600-700-800, ON first and it stalls as and when you press the clutch at an intersection (I checked the fuel pump and filter, traction appeared but the sausage did not go away, the check appeared and disappeared, it did not blink, but it disappeared, I cleaned the throttle sensors, pulled the chip off the throttle sensor and stopped stalling) but the speeds were the same and remained. I bought the DPZ and DHX, changed it right at the store, revved it up to 3000 thousand, turned it off and turned the key back to start.

everything is ok, the watch))) The check light came on ((I waved the old high-voltage wires, threw off the terminal, smoked a lot, thought a lot, put it on, started it and everything was back to normal, happy, went home to wash, fix the passenger handle, change the light bulbs in the PTF, such a weekend For the money, dpdz250, dxx740, fuel pump 1200, rubber filter, mesh 250)) Smooth roads and full tanks to everyone!

A problem has arisen with the car, help me figure it out, when accelerating after 3000 rpm, the “Check engine” lights up and the traction disappears ((((and if you don’t turn it even goes out over time. The engine trembles when this problem happens, after restarting the engine it’s normal, but again only up to 3 thousand P/s for diagnostics I need to know myself until the opportunity arises

As a rule, during the long-term operation of a vehicle, almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine does not pull well. In other words, the power unit has difficulty coping with the loads, there is a loss of power, the unit needs to be cranked up to high speeds to maintain the usual pace, the car accelerates worse from a standstill, picks up speed slowly, etc.

At the same time, in many cases the engine runs smoothly, does not tremble, there are no increased vibrations, extraneous sounds, knocking or noise during operation of the internal combustion engine. Let us note right away that there is a fairly wide list of possible reasons why a warm engine does not run, and there is a loss of engine power when cold and/or when hot.

In this article we will talk about why the engine does not pull, and also consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of loss of traction of the power unit.

Read in this article

The engine does not pull: the main reasons for the decrease in engine power

So, if no other symptoms other than loss of traction are detected, then you immediately need to pay attention to the quality of the fuel, the proper functioning of the ignition and power systems.

• As practice shows, more than half of the cases of reduced efficiency from internal combustion engines are associated with fuel. The engine does not turn on due to the fact that the tank may be filled with low-quality or unsuitable fuel for this type of engine (for example, 92-grade gasoline instead of 95-grade gasoline).

Typically, such manipulations are necessary when, parallel to the loss of traction, unstable operation of the internal combustion engine is noted, the speed jumps or floats at idle and under load, the engine does not start easily, the “check” light is on the panel, etc.

Also, owners of gasoline engines can independently determine the quality of gasoline by the spark plugs and their appearance. To check the spark plugs you need to unscrew them from the engine. A disruption in the combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders, as well as the presence of impurities in the fuel, can be identified by soot on the spark plugs and its color.

For example, if the fuel contains a lot of third-party metal-containing additives and additives, then the skirt and electrodes may become covered with reddish soot (brick-colored). Black soot will indicate that the fuel is not burning properly, etc. In any case, malfunctions in the combustion process of the working mixture lead to the fact that the engine stops pulling.

• The next step in diagnosis is checking the spark plugs. A decrease in the efficiency of these elements is also accompanied by a decrease in the power of the power unit.

This is especially noticeable during sharp accelerations, and when the car is already moving at high speed. In other words, the motor has no “reserve” left for further acceleration.

The candles may be dirty, and it is also possible that their life has come to an end. To fix this problem, you can clean the spark plugs or immediately replace the entire set with a new one.

• If everything is in order with the spark plugs, then you need to check the condition of the fuel and air filters. In the first case, insufficient throughput can lead to the fact that the required amount of fuel is not supplied to the cylinders to prepare the so-called “power” mixture.

As a result, the engine loses power, that is, it does not pull under load. In such a situation, it is enough to replace the specified filter element. As for the air filter, the problem is similar to the fuel filter, but in this case there is a lack of air in the fuel-air mixture.

This leads to the fact that fuel without a sufficient amount of oxygen burns incompletely. In such conditions, engine power naturally drops, carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber, spark plugs become increasingly dirty, etc. To solve the problem, the engine air filter also needs to be replaced.

Mass fuel flow sensor (MAF)

This element is available in any injection VAZ. It is a plastic element, inside of which there is a thin platinum thread. When the driver turns on the ignition, voltage is applied to this thread, which increases the temperature due to high resistance. When the engine starts, the air that enters the pipe cools this thread. As a result, resistance and voltage change. This information is read by the controller. This is how the control unit “finds out” how much air has passed through the mass air flow sensor.

If the sensor is faulty, the ECU puts it into emergency mode. At the same time, a “check” lights up on the panel. Indirect signs of a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor are:

• Unstable engine operation at idle.
• Long-term start of the internal combustion engine.
• Poor acceleration dynamics.
• High fuel consumption.

What to do if the VAZ-2114 is not? The sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced entirely.

Malfunctions of the power supply system, ignition and impaired mixture formation

While problems with spark plugs and filters can be identified on the road, more serious problems associated with the power and ignition system are much more difficult to diagnose and fix on site. In cases where the engine does not pick up speed, and jerks and dips are noted when pressing the gas pedal, it is necessary to check and adjust the carburetor or injector.

Let's focus on the more common electronic injection. The list of main malfunctions of modern injection internal combustion engines includes:

• malfunctions, decreased performance or contamination of the fuel pump mesh filter;
• malfunction of injection nozzles;
• problems with ECM or ECU sensors;
• ignition system malfunctions;
• air leaks and leaking fuel lines;

Often, on many cars, problems are associated with the fuel pump, which is located in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure fuel pressure, a pressure gauge is connected to the rail; the obtained values ​​are compared with those recommended for a particular engine. If the pressure is below normal, then the culprit may be either the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.

The regulator's task is to discharge excess fuel into the return line at a time when the pressure is higher than normal. If the settings are incorrect or the regulator itself is leaking or faulty, then the fuel will be discharged into the return line ahead of time. To check this, air is pumped in with a compressor or pump, and the pressure in the rail increases. If the regulator operates earlier than the recommended pressure, the element must be adjusted or replaced.

If the gas pump does not pump gasoline or the required pressure is not created, it is necessary to remove the device from the tank, clean or replace the mesh on the pump. If the situation does not change, then the pump is faulty and needs to be repaired/replaced.

As for injection nozzles, these elements must not only open and close in a timely manner, but also supply fuel to the cylinders in full. The shape of the spray pattern is also important. For this reason, the injectors must be checked and cleaned regularly to ensure that the fuel is sprayed evenly.

• ECM sensors (mass air flow sensor, air pressure sensor, etc.) send a signal to the ECU, thanks to which the controller takes into account how much air the engine consumes. Based on these data, the unit determines how much fuel needs to be supplied through the injectors to form the required fuel-air mixture, taking into account a particular operating mode of the internal combustion engine.

If the sensors do not work correctly, the ECU may supply the wrong amount of fuel. As a result, the engine does not pull and the car does not drive as it should. You can use a multimeter to check the sensors, but the best way is to conduct computer diagnostics of the engine.

Check the fuel filler cap

Many drivers, in most cases, when the “check engine” indication appears, will think about serious problems in the car’s engine, but will not even think about checking the tightness of the fuel system, which may be compromised due to a defect or an insufficiently tightened fuel tank cap. This is a very common reason for the appearance of the “Check” engine icon.

Reason for the error: Leakage of the fuel system due to the passage of air through the filler cap of the fuel tank will increase the vehicle's fuel consumption, to which the vehicle's diagnostic system will generate an engine error by turning on the "Check engine" indication on the vehicle's instrument panel.

What needs to be done: If, when the “Check” indication appears, your car has not lost power, and there are no audible signs of engine damage (engine knocking, humming, creaking, etc.), then first check the gas tank for leaks. Your gas cap may be cracked or not tightened enough. If the cap was not tightened enough, then after tightening it all the way, continue driving the car for a while to see if the engine error disappears. To prevent a check engine light from appearing for this reason, check your fuel filler cap regularly. Remember that the cover must be replaced with a new one periodically!

Other reasons for reduced engine performance

The condition of the exhaust system also greatly influences engine power. The fact is that to protect the environment from harmful emissions during operation of the internal combustion engine, catalytic converters are installed in the exhaust.

As a rule, official services offer to replace a worn-out element, but the price of the spare part is very high. For this reason, on many cars in the CIS, the catalyst is simply knocked out, and the control unit is “deceived” by software or other available methods.

Also, when engine power decreases, it is necessary to separately check the installation of the timing belt or chain according to the marks in order to eliminate the possibility of valve timing failure. Sometimes there are situations when the belt can jump one tooth, the chain stretches, etc.

In this case, the synchronous operation of the valve mechanism in relation to the operating cycles of the internal combustion engine may be disrupted. This leads to various failures, unstable operation of the unit and reduced power.

Let us also add that engine wear and certain malfunctions also affect engine power. As a rule, worn-out internal combustion engines with mileage usually lose about 10% of their declared power.

One way or another, any leaks in the combustion chamber will lead to expanding gases breaking out of the cylinder during fuel combustion. This means that the pressure of these gases on the piston will decrease, and the internal combustion engine itself will draw poorly and operate unstably.

Finally, we note that the reason that the car has lost dynamics may not be the engine, but the transmission. In other words, the power unit develops enough power, but it is not fully transmitted to the wheels.

If, when coasting, it is noticeable that the car immediately begins to slow down, then the problem is obvious, the wheels are slightly blocked. If no problems with the brakes are identified, then automatic transmission diagnostics are necessary. It is better to entrust this procedure to experienced specialists by delivering the car to a service center.

Purpose, design features, installation location of the fuel pressure regulator of an injection engine. Signs of RTD malfunctions, checking the device.

As a result, jerks and dips appear when accelerating, and the car jerks in motion during transitional conditions. Causes and troubleshooting.

The most common reasons why an engine does not develop full power. Why do they occur? Common problems with gasoline and diesel engines.

Why the engine may not pick up speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, car with LPG. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.

When you sharply press the gas pedal, the engine jerks, jerks and dips appear, the car does not pick up speed: the main causes of the malfunction and diagnostics.

Signs of a non-working cylinder (tribbing and vibration) of a diesel engine. Troubleshooting: compression, diesel injectors, glow plugs, injection pump and others.