How to replace the plug in the engine block if a leak occurs

Simply put, cylinder block plugs are needed so that if the coolant in the engine cooling system freezes, the cylinder block itself does not burst. The fact is that the transformation of the coolant, which is located in the cooling jacket, into ice, leads to the fact that the icy liquid expands. This causes overstressing of the block and can lead to cracks.

The engine plugs are actually plugs that fit tightly into the technological holes in the block and, under normal conditions, provide the cooling system with proper tightness. However, if the coolant or water inside the BC freezes, then the increased pressure squeezes the plugs out of the cylinder block, keeping the block itself intact after defrosting.

Also, during vehicle operation, a situation often arises when coolant flows through the plugs. You can often find that the block plugs are rusty, that is, they are destroyed due to corrosion. In one case or another, these elements need to be replaced. Next we will look at how to change the engine block plugs.

Replacement procedure

First of all, you need to make the area in which the stub is located accessible. To do this, follow these steps (in this order):

1. Disconnecting the exhaust pipes of the muffler from the exhaust manifold.
2. Removing the bracket on which the pump pipe for supplying coolant is fixed.
3. Disconnecting the hoses that provide ventilation to the unit from the carburetor and cylinder head cover. Closing the carburetor with a special cover.
4. Removing the air filter.
5. Disconnecting the wires from the carburetor, ignition distribution sensor, spark plugs.
6. Removing the sensor that distributes the ignition.
7. Disconnecting hoses from the fuel pump, outlet pipe, vacuum brake booster.
8. Disconnecting the air and throttle valve drive cables.
9. Removing the toothed belt protective cover.
10. Removing the pulley with key.
11. Removing the cylinder head.

Direct replacement of the plug includes the following:

1. Rotating the plug into the cylinder head using a chisel and hammer.
2. Pry the plug with pliers and remove it. If the part is very rusty and does not turn, you need to make a hole, screw a knob into it and pull out the plug.
3. Cleaning the edges of the cylinder head hole from corrosion using sandpaper. Lubricating the edges of the new part with a sealing agent.
4. Pressing the part into the cylinder head hole using a mandrel and a hammer.

Electrics

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How to replace engine plugs

Replacing the VAZ cylinder head gasket
Plugs are plugs that are expanded by the impact of the striker after installation in the hole. Perhaps this information will be useful to you when purchasing.

How to find stubs

Two cup-shaped plugs are located in the engine block, under the manifold mounting points.

The plugs are located in various places in the cylinder block and cylinder head.

They cover the holes formed during the casting of these parts.

The plug is a weak point that, if overheated or frozen, can be damaged by the pressure of expanded coolant. If there were no plugs, the engine housing would crack at such moments.

Types of Stubs

The dome-shaped plugs are inserted all the way into the collar. Cup-shaped plugs are recessed inside so that the rim extends slightly beyond the recess.

In most cases, the plugs are located: on the side surface of the block, under the manifold; inside the clutch housing or above it, in close proximity to the transverse partition; at the top of the cylinder head, under the overhead camshaft.

Sometimes the plugs fly out completely, causing a sudden loss of coolant. In addition, liquid may leak little by little through the rusted edges. Small leaks leave marks on the block. Examine the block to find them.

Some plugs are hidden from the naked eye. Use a mirror to look into hard-to-reach places, such as behind a block. Remember that plugs come in different sizes, so measure the holes you need before purchasing.

It is possible that to gain access to the plugs you will have to remove the carburetor.

In some cases, in order to change the plugs on the bulkhead side, it is necessary to remove the entire engine. It is better to entrust this procedure to specialists.

Do not try to make a hole in the partition. This is a load-bearing structure, and if the hole is not repaired, the vehicle's warranty may be void. A simple rivet is unlikely to satisfy the insurance company.

Disconnect the battery and drain the cylinder block. If you plan to reuse the fluid, collect it in a clean container (see How to Flush an Engine Radiator).

Before pouring, strain the liquid through a thin cloth. Check the concentration of the solution (see section Checking and adding antifreeze).

There are two types of plugs - cup-shaped and dome-shaped. The installation methods for such plugs are different.

How to remove the plug

The cup-shaped plug can be pulled out with two pairs of pliers.

Plugs of any type are removed using a thin screwdriver. Use a blade to pierce the center of the plug and pull it out.

Remember that the movement must be uniform. Otherwise, the plug will become skewed and get stuck.

Use a screwdriver to pierce the old plug and pull it out.

In some cases, the edges of the cup-shaped plug stick out quite a bit and can be grabbed with two pairs of pliers. When pulling out the plug, apply equal force on both sides. Do not try to use the screwdriver as a lever and rest it on the block, so as not to damage the groove itself.

Remove any remaining old caulk with a wooden tool.

How to replace the plug

Use the correct size holder to install the cup plug.

Lubricate the plug and hole with sealant.

Insert the dome plug with the dome facing out. Make sure it is not skewed. Tap the center of the plug with a striker to expand it. The plug must fit firmly into the hole.

Use the striker to install the domed plug.

To install the cup plug, find a holder that fits snugly into the cup. Place the plug at right angles to the hole and then hit the holder with a soft hammer.

Make sure that the plug does not bend and remember that its edges should protrude slightly beyond the hole. This will make it easier for you to remove the plug if necessary.

On some older BL series engines, the plugs in the engine base plate are installed using a bolt.

In some designs there is simply no place to swing a hammer to install the plug. For example, on Leyland B engines the dome plugs, hidden by the base plate, are directly opposite the baffle, but there are special holes in the base plate.

Insert a new plug, insert a 50 mm long bolt into the hole, put a nut on it and tighten it a little to press the plug into the groove.

This method is also used for other problem areas.

Elimination of lateral play

The lateral play is determined by loosening the camshaft up and down, for which one of the covers of the support cushions is removed. This play appears when the camshaft journals and the shaft bed support pads against which they rest are worn.

First, we dismantle both camshaft cushion covers and remove excess metal using an emery stone with a fine-grained abrasive. Its surface must be perfectly flat so as not to disturb the geometry of the part. An alternative is fine-grained sandpaper glued to smooth glass.

The pad cover is ground with an abrasive to reduce its depth, causing it to hold the shaft more tightly. To prevent the emery from clogging, it is recommended to periodically water it with water. After 1-1.5 minutes of processing, the cover must be replaced and tightened, checking for play. It is important not to remove too much metal as the camshaft will stop turning. After installation, it should move without play with a slight, so-called “velvety” force.

Next, the operation is repeated with the second cover of the support cushion, while the cover that was processed earlier must be removed so that it does not interfere with determining the degree of camshaft play. After the backlash is completely eliminated, both covers are installed and the engine is assembled. After starting the engine, the knocking should stop completely.

Video: A simple way to eliminate camshaft knocking on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.

Replacing the resonator

Boring and lining of the cylinder block

Resonator VAZ 2110

• The resonator is attached to the muffler using a crimp clamp with an O-ring;
• It is attached to the neutralizer by means of a floating flange (two bolts) and flaring;
• On the opposite side of the neutralizer there is a “fist”;
• It is often problematic to unscrew the knuckle mounting bolts; they are simply cut off with a grinder and replaced with new ones;
• If suddenly you don’t have a tool at hand, we clean the places where the bolts are attached and treat them with a “liquid wrench” (WD-40 or its equivalent);
• Unscrew the bolts and remove the muffler clamp;
• We remove the resonator from the suspension rubber bands, change the rubber bands if necessary;
• Then we hook a new resonator onto rubber bands and attach it to the muffler so that the pipe running from the resonator to the muffler is parallel to the ground;
• When there is wear on the neutralizer fist or there are burrs, grooves or rust on it, it is necessary to lubricate the connection with a special high-temperature sealant;
• Using new bolts and nuts, tighten the flanges of the catalyst and resonator;
• The neutralizer is attached to the resonator by means of a flange connection (two bolts), to the receiving pipe (pants) by means of a spring-loaded connection and a pair of flares, between which there is a graphite or metal-asbestos ring.

Proven Methods for Baked Screws

Are you planning a renovation but have you encountered baked screws causing downtime? Check out how to quickly and efficiently unscrew a baked screw so that you can carry out further work without hindrance, and the result will meet your expectations!

How to remove a screw using penetrating lubricant?

Unfortunately, a socket wrench cannot always handle a baked screw. If in trouble, you can use a pre-made blank, which works by penetrating deeply into the micro-spacing that occurs between the screw and the material - remember that you will enlarge these by gently tapping the head of the screw with a hammer. The drug reduces friction, and the moistened surface makes it easier to remove the screw. The universal solution for loosening baked-on screws is WD-40, but you can also use tools designed for this procedure, such as K2. After using the medications, wait a few minutes to even an hour. If problems arise, the operation can be repeated

The universal solution for loosening baked-on screws is WD-40, but you can also use tools designed for this procedure, such as K2. After using the medications, wait a few minutes to even an hour. If problems arise, the operation can be repeated.

Expert advice

The homemade equivalent of baked auger cleaner is kerosene. It also has anti-friction properties, making it easier to loosen baked screws. This is an attractive solution, but you must take into account the fact that the kerosene takes longer to thoroughly penetrate the gaps between the screw and the material.

Removing Stuck Screws Using an Impact Wrench

You can also remove a baked-on screw using an impact wrench. Place it on the head of the bolt or nut, then hit the shoulder gently and firmly with a hammer. When an impact occurs, vibrations occur, which in turn create torque.

Using an impact wrench is an alternative to simply driving in the head of the screw - it is safer because there is less risk of damaging the core. This brings better results.

How to unscrew a machined screw using heating and cooling?

This method for a baked screw, but also a machined one, involves the use of one of three electric tools: a torch, a heat gun or an induction heater

For this reason, extreme caution should be exercised and work should be carried out in special protective clothing.

Use the tool to heat not the screw, but the material into which it was screwed - their contact point. The results are very fast, but be careful! The method will not work if there are plastic parts when gripping the bolt - they may melt. The varnish, in turn, may chip.

Do you know that …

You can also unscrew the baked screw using the low temperature effect. Drill a small hole in the screw and spray it with compressed air from a can.

Before working with a torch or heat gun, make sure that there are no flammable substances or objects with similar characteristics nearby. Set the tool to 500°C. Heat the point of contact of the screw with the material, then cool quickly, for example by pouring cold water. This makes the connection easier.

How to remove a broken screw?

During repairs, you may also find it necessary to unscrew a screw with a broken head. In this situation, you can drill the remaining threads tightly and unscrew them using special screwdrivers designed for removing broken screws. Screwdrivers are characterized by reverse threading, which means that when screwed into the threads of a screw, it is removed.

7.2. Removing and installing cylinder block plugs

There are hole plugs installed on the sides and ends of the cylinder block, which are squeezed out of the block if the coolant freezes. On the side of the coolant drain plug on the cylinder block there are two plugs with a diameter of 34 mm, and on the opposite side (on the oil filter side) there are two more plugs of the same diameter. On the end side of the crankcase there is one plug 5 (see Fig. 67) with a diameter of 17 mm. Another plug 2 (see Fig. 66) with a diameter of 34 mm is pressed into the front end side of the cylinder block. These plugs can be changed if the coolant freezes without removing the engine, but using a special tool. To do this, you must perform the following operations:

— drain the coolant;

— remove parts and assemblies that may interfere with access to the plugs;

— place a narrow chisel or a powerful screwdriver under the edge of the plug (Fig. 69) and use a hammer to turn the plug in the hole 90° around its axis (Fig. 70);

- grab the plug with pipe pliers and pull it out of the cylinder block, as shown in Fig. 70;

— Thoroughly clean the mounting hole of the plug in the cylinder block. There should be no traces of grease left on the sealing surface;

- coat the mounting hole with Loctite fixing agent and insert a new plug using a special mandrel (specification number 00) or another suitable mandrel so that it is flush with the surface of the cylinder block;

— install all the removed parts in their places and after a pause of 45 minutes, pour coolant into the engine if it was not removed from the car;

— after that, start the engine and check it for leaks.

Reasons for tearing off edges

The desire to quickly replace failed parts secured with a threaded connection is not always feasible. Sometimes, when trying to unscrew a bolt from the unit body, the key begins to spin.

This is due to the tearing of the edges on the head of the hardware when exposed to increased load. And the reason for this may be the following factors:

• sticking, which is caused by the diffusion of atoms during a long connection;
• displacement of the parts being connected relative to the axis of the holes, which leads to jamming of the screw;
• tugging during installation (increased load);
• using the wrong tool during assembly (for example, to tighten a bolt whose head size is 14 mm, a 17 mm wrench is used, and a screwdriver is inserted to eliminate the gap);
• corrosion that has eaten away the surface of the head.

Replacing the cylinder block plug of a VAZ 2110

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On the other side of the cylinder head we press in the plugs. We remove the timing belt (see Replacing the timing belt on VAZ-2110, -2111 engines).

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They did it, which they regretted later. We had to take it apart again. And the plug that plugs the block where the antifreeze is located rusted. We knocked it out with a chisel and a hammer, then pulled it out with Hyundai pliers. Kia. Lada (VAZ).

You dig it out in any way, you won’t damage the block, then you take the plug (it came from a VAZ-2109) and use a copper adapter without sealant or any nonsense to hammer it in so that it fits in smoothly and that’s it. December 14, 2013

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Dismantling in difficult cases

In case of various installation errors, the anchor becomes jammed and it is impossible to remove or push the bolt.

The sleeve is completely driven into the wall

This is the most common case. If you need to remove an anchor from a concrete wall, we are usually talking about an indoor space. The best recipe is to break the plaster around so that the pliers catch on the edge of the sleeve.

If you need to remove the anchor without damaging the adjacent surface (primarily tiles or plastic window slope):

1. Remove the nut, knock out the bolt or loosen it (for a frame structure).
2. Screw a thin self-tapping screw between the bolt and the sleeve until it jams.
3. Place something for support (for example, a hammer).
4. Grasp both studs and pull out the structure.

If the first option doesn't help:

1. Remove the nut and knock out the stud or unscrew the bolt.
2. Use a thin nail or self-tapping screw as a wedge to tear and bend the edge of the sleeve.
3. Grab the cartridge by the bent edge (it’s convenient to first pull it with narrow- or round-nose pliers; when the edge is released enough, take pliers) and pull it out.
4. For a frame anchor, insert it into the concrete passage and screw the bolt into the spacer and remove everything together.

The anchor is rusty

A slightly rusted anchor bolt can be restored with automotive rust converter, machine lubricant, or WD-40 remover.

1. Remove the top layer of dirt and, if possible, rust.
2. Treat the head and nut, if possible, spray deep into the converter.
3. Maintain the time specified in the instructions for the product.
4. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
5. Try to carefully unscrew the bolt.

Advice On the forums they suggest treating oxidized parts with kerosene or VD-40 and leaving for half a day for the product to take effect.

The slot on the bolt is torn off

Broken splines are a fairly rare occurrence on anchor fasteners. However, if this happens, it is not necessary to dismantle the wall. Try drilling out the head, or the rod if there is no head, to remove the bolt from the threads. An “extractor” for screws and screws copes well with this task. This is an inexpensive device with attachments that are suitable for both a screwdriver and a drill. You can buy it on AliExpress for little money.

How to use the extractor:

1. Attach and secure the bit with the drill (curved cross) facing down.
2. Drill a hole in the stud or bolt head.
3. Turn the extractor over with the wedge-shaped end facing down and screw it into the stud.
4. Engage reverse and release the broken bolt using the extractor.

With proper installation and operation, the anchor bolts are removed with force, but quite simply. In rare cases, when it is impossible to hook the sleeve (for example, bad steel, the edge breaks) or the fastener is “stuck” tightly, the only option remains is to cut off the head or cut the anchor itself with a Bulgarian saw. If the anchor was holding a Swedish corner or other weight on the wall, perhaps the best option is to drive in a stud and cover everything with a wooden bobbin or cement and simply put finishing plaster on top.

What to do after replacement

So, the plug has been replaced and is no longer leaking, all that remains is to return the cylinder head to its place. To do this, follow these steps:

1. Cleaning the cylinder head from contaminants and formations using diesel or kerosene.
2. Removing remaining coolant from threaded holes.
3. Cleaning the cylinder head mating surfaces from the old gasket, degreasing them with a solvent.
4. Installation of the head on the BC.
5. Head fixation. The fastening bolts are immersed with threads in motor oil. When the lubricant drains (about half an hour), the head is fixed.
6. Putting the belt on the crankshaft pulley.
7. Tension the belt counterclockwise.
8. Installation of the belt drive protective cover (the mounting bolts are not tightened). Turn the crankshaft 2 turns (the belt should be tight even when the crankshaft is stopped). Checking the alignment of the mounting marks on the camshaft pulley and the cylinder head cover. Tightening the bolts securing the tension pulley bracket.
9. Installation of drive cables for carburetor flaps.
10. Connecting the removed hoses.
11. Installation of the ignition distribution sensor.

Now you need to set the ignition timing. To do this, do the following:

1. Connecting wires to the carburetor, ignition distribution sensor.
2. Installing an air filter.
3. Filling the cooling complex with antifreeze/water.
4. Connecting the negative cable to the battery.
5. Checking the functioning of the internal combustion engine.

Preparing for work

It is not always possible to find the necessary equipment for such work on hand, especially at home. You can use improvised tools that almost every owner has.

Before you begin to unscrew the bolt, cover the bolt with a rag soaked in kerosene.

The longer the rag lies on it, the easier it will be to unscrew.

If you don’t have time, you can treat the bolt with pure kerosene or WD-40 lubricant. It is necessary to tap the bolt with a hammer, then spray with WD-40 or kerosene.

After 1-2 minutes, you need to tap the bolt again and start unscrewing it. If there is no grease and kerosene, you can use brake fluid or ordinary vinegar.

Antifreeze or antifreeze flows through the plug; replacing the plug in the engine block with your own hands

Let's start with the fact that the problem of coolant leaking through plugs is most common on older domestic cars. However, this malfunction does not bypass various foreign cars. To restore tightness to the cooling system if it leaks through a plug in the block, the specified plug must be replaced. Let's look at such a replacement using the example of a VAZ car.

So, the plug (cup plug of the engine block) is installed in six places. The five larger plugs are 40mm in diameter, and the slightly smaller one is 25mm in diameter. The plugs must be changed in a certain sequence.

Before replacing, in addition to the new plugs themselves, you need to prepare:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• sandpaper;
• sealant;

Experts, regardless of engine type and time of year, recommend using only high-quality antifreeze or antifreeze diluted with distilled water in the required proportions, but not running or even distilled water.

You also need to remember that any antifreeze has a limited service life (maximum 4 years), and mixing different types of coolant with each other is also prohibited. Also used to flush the engine cooling system.

Antifreeze or antifreeze in the cylinder block: what to do and how to solve the problem. ... As a result, the permeability of the channels deteriorates, oil circulation is disrupted, and filters quickly become unusable.

As a rule, the color of antifreeze or antifreeze in this case changes to... If you remove the oil filter, then you can also notice sticky deposits inside it. ... How to eliminate an antifreeze leak: causes and possible...

The plugs in the cylinder block are integral elements of the unit. If liquid begins to leak from the cooling system, the root cause may be plugs that have become unusable. The appearance of holes is caused by rust that forms during the operation of the car. Replacing plugs on a VAZ engine can often eliminate such problems, and installing new ones yourself does not take as much time as compared to engine repair.

Composition of the output unit

The exhaust system for a VAZ 2110 car consists of the following elements:

1. Exhaust manifold;
2. Lambda probe;
3. Receiving type pipes;
4. Neutralizer;
5. Two mufflers: main type and additional.

Not all exhaust components are disassembled; some parts, such as the converter, as well as both mufflers, are replaced entirely.

Description of individual components

To make the structure of such an element as the discharge system clearer, it is necessary to give a detailed description of all components:

1. Neutralizer. A unit designed for effective purification and suppression of emissions of harmful substances into the environment. When driving, a car produces substances such as non-combustible hydrocarbons, oxide compounds of nitrogen and carbon. The work of this system is aimed at eliminating them. The design itself is a combination of two ceramic-type components. The surface of these components is coated with special afterburning catalysts, which include rhodium, palladium and platinum. These substances make it possible to purify exhaust gases emitted into the environment by almost 100%;
2. Lambda probe. It is a special sensor whose task is to control the composition and amount of fuel that enters the engine. The lambda probe thereby controls the purifier. If the lambda probe does not work properly, then the entire output assembly will quickly become unusable, after which it will have to be replaced;
3. Reception pipe. Designed for forced removal of exhaust gases from the cylinders of a power unit. The pipe is made of stainless steel, and its fastening to the collector is carried out using special pins, of which there are four in total. The studs guarantee reliable fastening of the two outlet pipes and the element. In order to combine the exhaust pipe and the neutralizer, as well as an additional muffler, hinged fasteners are used;
4. An exhaust manifold. A component that is cast from pure cast iron. The manifold is secured with four studs in the exhaust pipe. Heat-resistant gaskets reinforced with metal are installed between the manifold and cylinder heads.
5. Silencers. Necessary for effectively suppressing the exhaust rate of burnt gases. This is necessary in order to significantly reduce the noise level in a type of transport such as the VAZ 2110. The distribution device in this part of the unit is carried out as follows: the additional one is followed by the main one. These two components are connected to each other by clamps and sealing rings and are covered with a special casing on top.

Nuances of operation

There are some points that need to be taken into account when operating the VAZ 2110 system:

1. Under no circumstances should the vehicle be refueled with leaded fuel, as this will cause damage. It is very sensitive to lead compounds;
2. When operating a VAZ 2110 car, you also need to monitor the proper, precise operation of the ignition, since its poor-quality operation leads to the neutralizing part being removed from its working condition. Fuel that does not burn when a spark passes during ignition enters the converter and burns out there. For this reason, the ceramic coating of the component quickly deteriorates;
3. Frequent malfunctions will sooner or later lead to complete or partial blockage of the output system, in turn to the failure of the engine and its repair or replacement will be required.

Troubleshooting

The operation of a machine is always associated with the occurrence of malfunctions in parts and mechanisms. If some parts become unusable, then they need to be replaced or repaired yourself.

To replace the additional muffler in the exhaust unit:

1. unscrew the two bolts that secure the clamp, for this you need a 13mm wrench;
2. remove the clamp itself;
3. remove the ring;
4. disconnect the additional suspension cushions;
5. remove the unit.

After this, a replacement is made, it is mounted in place in the reverse order. These are basic troubleshooting repair steps.

In addition to replacing standard faulty components with the same ones, but only new ones, you can modify individual components of the exhaust system, or tune the entire assembly.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Repair of exhaust system parts

• It is possible to weld parts of the exhaust system only if they have been damaged as a result of mechanical impact
• In the event that a pipe breaks, or a weld seam or tank burns out, you need to replace the entire element, it has already become unusable
• The only part to which this does not apply are metal expansion joints. They change regardless of the exhaust system itself
• The cost of the neutralizer in comparison with other elements of the system is decent. Therefore, many people change it to a stronger (flame arrester)
• The neutralizer is cut off, leaving only the connecting flanges, as well as a fist with flaring, and a flame arrester is welded in
• The cost of a flame arrester is much lower than a neutralizer. However, there is no afterburning of fuel residues. Therefore, its installation is permissible on cars with one lambda sensor. In addition, the flame arrester increases fuel consumption by about 10-15%.

Replacing plugs for VAZ 2110

Car owners often encounter the problem of fluid leaking from the cooling system. Often the reason lies in rusted or squeezed out plugs in the engine cylinder block. To fix the problem, just replace them with new ones.

Plug locations

• There are plugs on the sides and ends of the cylinder block that are squeezed out of the block when the coolant freezes in it.
• Two plugs with a diameter of 34 mm are located on the cylinder block on the side of the coolant drain plug, and two more on the oil filter side
• There is another plug with a diameter of 17 millimeters on the rear end side of the crankcase
• The last plug with a diameter of 34 mm is located at the front end of the cylinder block

These plugs are changed if the coolant in the cylinder block is frozen. The plugs can be changed without removing the engine. On a VAZ 2110, replacing the cylinder block plugs is done using a special tool. To do this you will need:

• beard or chisel
• hammer
• pliers
• durable screwdriver
• telescopic magnetic pointer (purchased at any automotive store)
• new plug
• sealant
• skin

Stages of repair on 8 and 16 valve cars

Eliminating engine fluid leaks

Leaking motor fluid from an internal combustion engine (8 or 16 valves) is an important symptom in which the cylinder head requires repair. Typically, fluid leaks from under the plug. It is located directly on the cylinder head at the rear of the engine. Leakage is usually caused by worn o-rings.

1. In order to replace the plug, you need to unscrew three bolts from the studs.
2. Having done this, you can remove the sealing rubber from the installation site.
3. It is better not to use domestically produced sealing gaskets, since their quality leaves much to be desired. In order to protect yourself from having to replace the ring again, it is better to use a sealant. For greater convenience, the sealant can be filled into a medical syringe.
4. Squeeze some sealant into the place where the plug will be installed. Wait five minutes before installing the new gasket in place and then installing the plug.