Why do you need a pump on the VAZ 2101–2107 and how to replace the pump

Cooling is a necessary condition for the operation of an internal combustion engine. Cars use two types of cooling: air and water. The first method is rarely used due to its low efficiency. VAZ 2107 engines, like most cars, have a water cooling system. The key unit of water cooling is the water pump (pump) of the VAZ 2107. It maintains constant circulation of coolant, moving it from the hot zone (cylinder block) to the cooling radiator and back.

Pump VAZ 2107

The water pump (VAZ 2107 pump) is no different from the units installed on other “classic” models. This is a housing (cover) with a shaft with an impeller installed inside. The movement of the coolant is ensured by the movement of the impeller blades rotating on the shaft. That is, it is a centrifugal type pump.

Torque is transmitted to the shaft from a pulley mounted on the engine crankshaft through a belt, which at the same time rotates the car’s electric generator. On older VAZ models, the pump pulley was used for another function - for attaching a fan for forced cooling of the radiator. But the VAZ 2107 is equipped with an electric cooling fan, so this part is missing.

Troubleshooting

The following problems are typical for water pumps of classic VAZ models:

Almost all pump problems are the result of bearing wear. With little wear and play of the shaft, the pump operates normally. As the gaps in the bearing separators increase, the oil seal begins to leak antifreeze, and unnatural noises are heard from the pump installation site when the engine is running - a hum or crackling sound. As a result, the shaft becomes distorted. The further scenario can develop in three ways.

VAZ 2107 pump malfunctions

This unit has a fairly simple design, so the faults are not too varied: a coolant leak or a bearing failure.

They are often connected, but the consequences of these two breakdowns should be separated. In the first case, a critical decrease in the antifreeze level and engine overheating is possible. It will be possible to drive some distance, you will have to add antifreeze (if there is none, water). In the second case, the bearing may jam, which will lead to a break in the pump belt and a complete lack of engine cooling. In this case, you will not be able to continue moving.

In both cases, an immediate replacement of the VAZ 2107 pump is necessary, since this unit cannot be repaired.

How to check the pump without removing it from the engine? Read about the ways

Quite a lot of car owners are wondering how to check the pump without removing it from the engine. After all, it is highly not recommended to mess around with the cooling system, so it’s worth learning how to check it directly on the car. Please note that this will minimize repair time and also make it possible to avoid unnecessary costs for unnecessary components. Even a completely inexperienced driver can carry out such diagnostics, which will make his task easier, especially if the engine suddenly heats up. Do not delay carrying out diagnostic work; remember that overheating of the power plant leads to its rapid failure.

How to check the pump without removing it from the engine is actually a fairly simple question. There shouldn't be any problems with this. But, you need to know how this system works. Careful study of the work process will greatly simplify the diagnostic process. Another point that should not be forgotten is the ability to carry out such diagnostics at any convenient time. Even if you are on the road in a deserted area, you can conduct a check and decide on further movement.

Replacing the pump

Before you begin replacing the pump, you must drain the coolant from the radiator and engine. To do this, you need to remove the radiator cap and sequentially unscrew the cap on the radiator and cylinder block, exposing the container to drain the antifreeze. When the cooling system is empty (or the coolant level is below the pump mounting level), you can begin replacing the pump. To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

• remove the generator belt by first loosening the nut and reducing its tension;

• loosen the nut securing the generator and move it closer to the splash guard;
• Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the pump pulley and remove it;
• unscrew and remove the coolant supply pipes;
• unscrew the pump and remove it from the cylinder block;
• remove the sealing gasket (it must be replaced when removing the pump);
• unscrew the 4 nuts on the pump and disassemble it;

• install a new pump pump with o-rings (they, like the sealing gasket, cannot be used twice);
• Reassemble all parts in reverse order.

Signs of a faulty water pump on a classic

The pump on a VAZ is a very important detail. It largely depends on it whether the car will heat up or not. Needless to say, element failure is an unpleasant thing, but it also has its advantage. Thus, a failing part always gives a sign to an experienced driver, who must be able to recognize the main signs of an impending breakdown.

First of all, let's look at the signs of deteriorating pump bearings. Albeit insignificant, but excessive play of the drive pulley is already a reason to think about it. Also, rustling, howling, roaring and other characteristic sounds of worn-out bearings should alert the driver.

Experienced motorists make an interesting comment on the sounds. The engine, they say, does not creak, but knocks or makes noise. On the contrary, everything that squeaks or creaks are characteristic signs of a generator, rollers or pump. A howl indicates that the timing belt or alternator belt is overtightened.

If you don’t pay attention to these signs, then after several tens of kilometers the car’s run, coolant may begin to leak, although this is not an axiom, because there are so many examples when there was no leakage when the pump completely collapsed. It is better to focus on noise: the grinding noise of bearings will only intensify over time, and it will be impossible not to notice it.

As for leakage, it depends more on the quality of the seal. It is located in the pump and is designed to ensure tightness. Liquid can come out of the drain hole if it is provided on the pump (depending on the pump model - there are ones with or without holes). Over time, the leak will only get worse if replacement measures are not taken.

You can check the bearing visually:

• stick your hand in and grab the pump pulley;
• move it back and forth;
• if even a slight play is observed, this means that some wear of the bearings is present.

However, if there is no whistle and the play is very insignificant, then the pump will continue to run for some time. You can remove the alternator belt and check the pulley like this. This will allow you to better feel the free play.

Thus, as long as there is no specific grinding noise, and there is no critical release of antifreeze to the outside, you can drive. From the first sign of rustling or faint whistling to complete failure, it is possible to travel another 1000–6000 kilometers. Here, depending on your luck, there are no magic tips.

On the other hand, and this must be taken into account, the pump can fail much earlier, before reaching the grinding stage. Everything can happen quickly and unnoticed by the car owner, and you should not wait until the noise level increases to replace the pump.

It is important to understand that there is such a breakdown of the water pump that there will be no loss of antifreeze or noise at all. And the engine will boil. For example, this happens when a plastic impeller moves away from the shaft. In fact, the shaft is spinning as before, but the impeller is inactive and just dangles. At the same time, the stove will stop heating.

There is another option for the motor to overheat. The pump is in good condition, new. However, in hot weather or in difficult off-road driving conditions, in traffic jams at traffic lights, the fan often turns on and the engine begins to heat up. This happens due to a mismatch in the design features of the pump: for example, if an impeller of a smaller size than necessary is installed inside (on older models of the pump, the impeller is equipped with small blades that may not be able to cope with the cooling of a more powerful engine).

If the owner has a choice when purchasing a new pump, then it is better to give preference to models with a larger impeller.

Pump impellers: small (left) and large

A large gap between the impeller and the pump body can also cause insufficient antifreeze flow through the cooling system. The gap should be no more than 1.5 mm. This deficiency is especially pronounced at idle speed, in traffic jams.

The gap between the impeller and the pump housing should not exceed 1.5 mm

Original methods for diagnosing the operation of a pump were found in one automobile magazine.

1. You need to take several clean sheets of white paper and lay them out under the car in the evening. In the morning, check the paper; if it is wet, with traces of greenish liquid, it means the pump is leaking.
2. Turn on the interior heater at full power. If the arrows of the water temperature indicator shoot up sharply, stop the machine. Check by touch the condition of the cooling radiator after stopping the engine and the condition of the pump drive belt. If the elements are too hot, there is something wrong with the pump.
3. Open the hood of the car. If there is a clear smell of coolant, this indicates a pump malfunction.
4. The engine switches to idle mode. Then you need to pinch the upper pipe of the pump with your finger. If the pump is working, a slight push of liquid is felt.

Features of pouring antifreeze (antifreeze)

After replacing the VAZ 2107 pump, all that remains is to tighten the alternator belt and fill in the coolant. The latter will need about 10 liters.

To add antifreeze without creating air locks in the cooling system, you should do the following:

• position the car so that the front is higher than the rear. Then the heating radiator will be lower than the other elements of the system.

• disconnect the thin hose of the cooling system going to the carburetor or throttle valve (depending on whether the carburetor or injection type of engine is installed on the car);
• open the plugs on the expansion tank and radiator;
• make sure that the drain plugs are installed and carefully tightened;
• pour antifreeze (antifreeze) into the radiator using a watering can;
• push the rubber hoses of the cooling system with your hands, expelling the air (the fluid level will drop);
• fill the radiator to the brim and close the cap;
• pour coolant into the expansion tank and close it;
• start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature;
• With the engine running, squeeze and release the cooling hoses several times to remove remaining air from the system;
• add fluid to the expansion tank to the recommended level.
• install the hose going to the throttle and tighten the clamp.

There is another way to ventilate the cooling system, but it is shown in this video:

After this, the machine is ready for use.

Auto repair school - Do-it-yourself car repair

May 25, 2016 VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, Zhiguli, Classic by admin

Replacing the pump or water pump (whichever is more convenient for you) on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic cars must be done for two reasons. First, the pump leaked . That is, traces of a coolant leak were found on the pump. In this case, replacement should be carried out as quickly as possible. Since the first drops of antifreeze or antifreeze can very quickly turn into a stream and all the liquid will end up under the car in a matter of minutes. The second reason is that the pump hummed. the water pump bearings have failed . In this case, you will have a little more time to think before the pump leaks or jams. But, only the pump itself can say exactly how long it will take))). What can a time period from one month to the next turn mean? In both cases, the result is the same: failure of the pump, overheating of the engine and further movement of the car using a tow rope.

In general, as a result of the above, we try not to delay replacing the pump, and carefully read the article further and decide whether to carry out the replacement ourselves or whether it is better to contact a mechanic...

Now we move on to the next stage - choosing-purchasing a pump and compiling a list of tools that will be needed for the job.

I think that I won’t surprise anyone if I advise you to buy only a VAZ pump !? As always this is the best choice. If, however, it is not possible to buy a VAZ one, then it is difficult to advise anything specific, since at the moment there are quite a few manufacturers of pumps for Zhiguli. Here it’s up to your taste, pocket and seller’s recommendations. The only other thing I can add is to check that the gasket is included in the kit, buy a small tube of sealant and do not mess with Fenox (maybe I was unlucky, but the pumps from this manufacturer were often not pleased with their quality).

What else... Yes! Replacing the pump is an excellent reason to replace the coolant in your car . It is worth checking in advance what condition (color, density) the antifreeze or antifreeze in your car. Remember the last time it was replaced.

Now for the instrument. To replace the water pump (pump) on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 you will need: open-end wrenches (the presence of socket wrenches is also welcome) wrenches 8, 10, 13, 17, container for draining coolant, screwdriver, wrench 27-30 (in case, instead of the drain plug on the radiator, you have to unscrew the fan switch sensor).

And finally, about the main thing - a description of replacing the pump (water pump) on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic, Zhiguli cars :

1. Unscrew the drain plug on the engine block (photo 1) and drain the liquid into a previously prepared container. If you are planning to replace the coolant, then look for the drain plug (or, as in my case, the fan on sensor on the radiator, see photo 2) on the cooling radiator, unscrew it and drain the liquid.

2. Remove the battery. Disconnect the electric fan block (photo 3). We unscrew the three bolts securing the fan casing (photo 4) to the radiator and pull it out.

3. Using a 17mm wrench, loosen (you don’t have to completely unscrew) the generator belt tension nut (photo 5), loosen the tension and remove the belt. After this, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the bracket to the pump (photo 6) and move the bracket to the side.

4. Holding the pump pulley with a screwdriver, unscrew the three mounting bolts (photo 7). We remove the pulley.

5. Now all that remains is to unscrew the four nuts securing the pump to the engine (photo and remove the pump. After this, clean the pump mounting area from traces of the old gasket and dirt, install a new gasket (after lubricating it with sealant) and install the new pump on the car.

We carry out the rest of the assembly in reverse order. When pouring coolant, we forget to put the heating radiator valve control lever in the open position and to “bleed” the system, disconnect the hose (photo 9) from the intake manifold. In order to do everything correctly, I ask you to familiarize yourself with the material on replacing the coolant in VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic, Zhiguli cars .

When using an article or photographs, an active direct hyperlink to the website www.avtorem.info is required!

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Tools

For repair you will need:

• Keys at 10, 13, 17;
• metal brush;
• sealant;
• container for draining coolant.

As for which pump to choose, there are 3 proven brands:

At the same time, TZA is preferable, but they are rarely found on sale. They also advise choosing pumps with a metal impeller, explaining that plastic ones can fall apart or dissolve in low-quality antifreeze, but I have never seen this.

What's the result?

As you can see, if you have certain skills, the process of replacing the clutch disc is not difficult. The most time-consuming operation is gaining access to the clutch itself, especially on front-wheel drive vehicles.

As for replacing the disc itself and how to correctly install the clutch disc, as well as the frequent question of which side to place the driven clutch disc, you need to take into account that the disc is placed towards the basket with the part where the damper springs protrude.

Manual transmission gears (speeds) do not engage after replacing the clutch: main reasons, settings and adjustments. Diagnosis of problems, useful tips.

How to replace the clutch on a DSG/S-Tronic robotic gearbox. Signs of the need for replacement, removal and installation of the DSG clutch, calibration and adaptation.

Bearing type

There are several reasons for heating of the rolling elements of a bearing: micro-slippage of the rolling elements on the raceways, hysteresis of the rolling elements and race materials due to contact mechanical stresses, sliding between the cage and the rolling elements or side surface, movement and turbulence in the lubricant. The amount of heat generated by each of these sources depends on the bearing geometry, load, rotation speed, lubricant properties: type, viscosity and quantity. At low loads and high speeds, ball bearings heat up less than roller bearings. At low speeds and high loads, the opposite is true. Although a bearing is usually selected based on cost and durability considerations, in some cases temperature can also influence the choice.

Electric fan

We are talking about the fan that is installed on the cooling radiator. It works quite rarely. It turns on only when the temperature at the radiator outlet is exceeded. A sensor is installed in this place, or, to be more precise, a thermal switch. It consists of a bimetal plate, which at a certain temperature is deformed, changing its geometry. In this case, the contacts connected to this plate mechanically are closed.

It is worth noting that the cooling system of the VAZ-2107, malfunctions of which can be eliminated fairly quickly, is still not very perfect. The sensor, according to the manufacturer, is capable of switching large currents and has an impressive service life. But it is better to have a degree of protection - switching on should be done using an electromagnetic relay, which is controlled by a sensor. This way you can increase the resource many times. In addition, it is necessary to have a button in the cabin connected parallel to the sensor. With its help, you can force the fan to turn on.

How to check the functionality of a washing machine pump

In the illustration: a view of the washing machine from below, the drain pump feature is disabled. 2 more pumps are visible (recirculation and watering).

Attention! When working with electrical devices, you must follow safety regulations!

If the pump does not drain water, then in order to check its functionality and eliminate suspicions of a malfunction of the electronic module, we proceed in the following way:

1. After washing, leave water in the tank or add water so that the water level is slightly above the bottom of the drum.
2. We disconnect the washing machine from the network by removing the plug from the socket.
3. We remove the front panel of the machine to have access to the pump connection terminals.
4. We will remove the chip or terminals, depending on the features of the model. We connect the terminals of the pre-prepared wire with a plug. We check the reliability of the fit and the absence of mutual contact between the contacts. We plug the plug into the socket. If the water in the tank leaves, it means the pump is in working order. And the cause of the breakdown must be sought in a malfunction of the electronic module or other elements in the pump control circuit.

Features of the cooling system of classic Lada

The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is actually no different from other engines built on the basis of the Fiat 124 engine. It is not our plan to describe its operation and design, however, the pump bears the main load and is responsible for the circulation of the coolant. Despite the simplicity of the water pump design, it is subject to a whole bunch of requirements, and failure to comply with at least one of them can cause an antifreeze leak or disruption of its circulation. As a result, the motor will overheat with all the ensuing consequences.

The Zhiguli water pump is a two-part housing in which an impeller is placed on an axis. Bearings or bushings on which the axle rotates are pressed into the housing. There are also many questions about the bearings, since they must be completely sealed, and in addition, they experience a rather serious load, which is exerted by the drive V-belt. Most problems with the pump are caused by the bearings - they wear out, play appears on the pump shaft, the cooling system depressurizes and antifreeze leaks.

Video

The Avto Fix Info channel spoke in detail about the procedure for replacing the radiator device on the stove of the domestic “Seven”.

It's winter, it's time to install a 220 volt heater on the engine. In principle, there is nothing complicated in this procedure, the only problem is the availability of a warm room for the work. In this article we will talk about how to install engine heating on a VAZ 2107.