Battery charging fuse VAZ 2107 injector

If for any reason your battery runs out or the charging indicator on the dashboard lights up, don’t panic , because most often the problem can be found and fixed on your own. Charging the battery is required to maintain a constant voltage on the on-board network; the generator is responsible for its presence. Modern cars can travel approximately 250 thousand km. without generator repair. Therefore, if your car has less mileage than this, then you shouldn’t be too upset because the repairs can be done yourself and at an affordable price.

In this article we will not consider simply a dead battery due to frost or from the car being idle for a long time . This problem can be solved simply: “light a cigarette” in a “healthy” car or simply charge the battery. It is advisable to charge the battery for a long time so that it can fully gain a charge. In this case, recharging the car using a generator will not give the desired result, especially if it is not a long route around the city. Don't be surprised if you find yourself in the same situation the next morning. In general, the battery must be looked after and maintained. This article describes in detail how to extend the battery life.

Today we will talk specifically about the reasons for the lack of battery charging.

Let's look at it in order. First, you need to know how the battery in a car is charged. In a nutshell, this can be explained as follows: in a car there is a unit called a generator ; it generates electric current by forced mechanical rotation from the engine by a drive belt. The current generated by the generator charges the battery.

Features of the battery charging system on the VAZ-2107

On the VAZ-2107, the battery or battery performs the same functions as on other vehicles. The battery must support the vehicle's electrical system when the engine is turned off. If the car is in working condition, then all its electrical equipment receives power from the car generator. Its functions include providing electricity to the following equipment:

• Engine ECU (electronic control unit);
• nozzles;
• fuel supply pump (gasoline pump);
• AKB (rechargeable battery).

The fact is that when the engine is running, the car battery must be charged from the generator, which is the source of energy for charging the vehicle battery. But failures occur when there is no charging on the VAZ-2107 (injector).

The reasons for this can be very different, and to find out they need to understand the battery charging circuit.

Remove the terminal to clear the error

Well, in conclusion, I would like to answer another popular question - namely, will an error, for example CHECK ENGINE, go away if you remove the terminal for, say, 10 minutes or even an hour?

It is worth noting that this is from the realm of myths! Removing neither “plus” nor “minus” usually does not help against serious errors. They are, so to speak, registered at the ECU level and often require special software and special devices such as ELM 327 to make the connection - read and then reset the error.

Of course, there used to be ECUs that could be manipulated in this way. YES, and some VERY easy errors were reset, for example regarding fuel.

But in modern cases, in 97% of cases, this will not help! It's not like a microwave where the clock resets every time the power goes out. Once again, everything is sewn up and accumulated programmatically, you can’t just reset it.

YES, and if we are talking about errors, you need to remember that if you “threw away” errors using ELM327, but did not eliminate their cause (for example, the catalyst “bent over”), then they will reappear after a very short period of time.

Now we are watching the video version.

I’ll finish this, I think my information was useful to you. Sincerely yours, AUTOBLOGGER

194,74

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Diagram of the battery charging circuit on the VAZ-2107

The battery charging circuit diagram for the VAZ-2107 is the same as for other passenger cars. The mechanism of its action is as follows:

1. The battery is connected by its “negative” terminal to the body using a copper busbar.
2. The entire electrical system is connected to the positive terminal of the battery using two buses:
3. the first tire goes to the starter;
4. the second bus is to the generator.
5. The “positive” terminal of the generator transmits voltage:
6. on the fuse block;
7. to the ignition switch.
8. From the ignition switch, electricity is transmitted to the mounting block, which houses fuses (the one that protects this conductive circuit is marked “F10”).
9. Voltage is supplied from the fuses:
10. to the “Charge Level Signal” control lamp (it is intended to notify you that the battery is insufficiently charged);
11. on a voltmeter, which shows digital voltage readings in a current-carrying circuit.
12. The next stage in the battery charging circuit is the transfer of current to:
13. fuse box;
14. generator terminal 61 (brush assembly).

As you can see, a malfunction in this battery charging circuit can appear almost anywhere. For example, the contact breaks down, as a result of which the generator will stop efficiently charging the vehicle’s battery.

What are fuses for?

Each circuit has its own fuse. Large fuses with high current ratings protect multiple circuits at the same time or high current circuits, such as power steering or radiator fan circuits.

There is also at least one main fuse. Often the main and power fuses are installed closer to the battery. See this fuse box diagram.

Modern cars have at least two fuse boxes. In most cars, one fuse box is located under the hood and the other is located inside the car.

When any electrical device in your car is not working, the first step is to check the fuse that protects the circuit to that device.

You can find the fuse map in your owner's manual or on the fuse box cover. Many vehicles have a fuse puller, which may be located in the fuse box or in the fuse box cover.

How to determine why the battery is not charging on a VAZ-2107

Experts recommend several effective steps to identify faults in the vehicle battery charging circuit.

First, diagnose all fuses, especially those marked “F10”. It is this safety element that is responsible for feeding the excitation winding of the generator.

Secondly, check the drive belt: if there are any breaks in it, and if it is tensioned correctly. If you have to adjust the tension of the drive belt, you should take into account an important nuance: you should not allow it to be over-tensioned. This can affect the bearings (they can deteriorate much faster than their service life is prescribed), and the battery will not be recharged.

Thirdly, pay attention to the lamp for monitoring the battery charge level. If it burns at half intensity, it means that the battery is not charging well, and the wiring is to blame. That is, the fault must be looked for in the conductive connections running from the battery to the car body. The cause of the breakdown may be oxidation of the contacts. To check this, you should:

• unscrew the nut;
• clean the contact terminal;
• clean the body surface;
• install the wire in its original place.

The fourth step in troubleshooting may be to check the voltage regulator. Its function is to stabilize the voltage output from the generator. If its direct functions are violated, the battery stops charging normally. Unfortunately, this part cannot be repaired; it is simply replaced with a new one.

If the voltage regulator is working properly, then you need to look for the cause of the malfunction in another place - in the brush assembly. The battery will not be charged from the generator if the wires connecting the contacts to these brushes are broken. Although the reason may lie either in clogging of the brushes themselves, or in their excessive wear.

If the brush assembly is in full working order, but the battery is not charging, then there is only one way out: completely disassemble the car generator. After dismantling and disassembling it, you will have to diagnose it using a tester and megger, this will help identify the possible cause of the generator malfunction.

Causes of malfunction of starter car batteries

Starter batteries can fail under improper operating conditions. If a small battery is installed on a powerful car, which will need to work in high load mode to start the engine, then very soon the battery plates will be destroyed and its further operation will become impossible. Batteries with significant capacity indicators, on the contrary, will not be fully charged when installed in small cars, and the generators of such cars will constantly work at the power limit.

Incorrect operation of the battery may also involve failure to comply with basic safety standards. For example, the use of tall batteries with terminals on the top cover in vehicles with insufficient space under the hood where a chemical power source is installed may result in a short circuit between the terminals. One such event is enough for the battery to completely fail.

You should not leave a discharged battery in an unheated garage or in a car outside in cold weather. The density of the electrolyte in such batteries is extremely low, so freezing of the liquid can occur even at a relatively low sub-zero temperature. As a result of ice pressure, the plates inside the battery will be destroyed, which will also make further operation of the device impossible.

Battery testing and restoration

If the performance of the battery can be restored, then this can be done in a garage using a minimum set of tools and materials. Even a short circuit of the plates can be eliminated if there is a desire to spend a significant amount of time and effort.

Low electrolyte density

On maintained batteries, the density of the electrolyte may decrease significantly. As a result, the battery will not be able to accumulate sufficient energy even with a working generator. A decrease in density occurs due to dilution of the electrolyte with distilled water due to loss of liquid through cracks in the battery case or as a result of splashing through traffic jams when driving on a bumpy road or when the electrolyte is constantly boiling.

The density of the electrolyte can be determined using a hydrometer. This device is a small elongated tank in which there is a submerged float with a scale. The electrolyte is drawn into the device by means of a vacuum that appears when the bulb in the upper part of the measuring device is squeezed. The less dense the electrolyte, the lower the float will fall in the collected electrolyte. The exact measurement result can be determined by the point at which the electrolyte level coincides with the scale.

Low electrolyte density can be eliminated by pouring a new mixture of water and sulfuric acid into the jars.

Short circuit of plates

If the plates are short-circuited, the battery will also not charge. This malfunction is determined by the absence of boiling of the electrolyte in the damaged jar. Repairing this fault is very labor-intensive. The performance of the battery is restored by replacing the can where the plates were shorted. For this purpose, you can use a battery of the same brand as a “donor”. Despite the possibility of fully restoring the battery in this way, it is much easier to purchase and install a new battery.

Sulfation of plates

Sulfation is a natural process during the operation of a car battery. To reduce the intensity of this process, you should not leave the battery discharged for a long time. Low electrolyte levels also negatively affect the condition of the plates. Under such conditions, exposed internal elements are coated with a sulfide layer much faster than parts of the gratings in liquid.

In addition to using special chargers to train the battery, you can use periodic discharge (up to 10.5 V) followed by complete restoration of the charge. By repeating several similar cycles, you can largely get rid of the oxide layer on the lead plates.

If the battery is not charging, you should not postpone diagnostic measures. Regardless of the reason for the lack of charging current, delays in repairs may lead to the need for more complex and expensive work. Most of the testing and restoration operations are easy to carry out in a garage, but by contacting a specialized workshop you can significantly save time, because experienced technicians can easily detect the reason for the non-standard operation of the vehicle’s electrical system devices.

Causes of generator malfunction on the VAZ-2107 (injector)

Experts suggest that on a VAZ-2107 with an injector, the standard generator is 5142.3771 (eight).
It has one very important feature: it produces more current - not 55A per hour, like other generators, but about 80-90 A. This is due to the properties of the injector, which requires more electricity (but also has a higher power density). Experts advise checking the generator for malfunctions in the following order:

• inspect the diodes that supply electricity to the excitation winding of the generator (if they are burned out, they should be replaced with new ones);
• use a tester to measure the voltage level in the current-carrying circuit (if its value is less than 12 V, then there may be a short circuit, which means the wiring is overheating).

If it is difficult for the car owner to carry out such diagnostics, he can contact the nearest car service center for help from qualified specialists.

In this article you will learn why the VAZ 2107 does not charge, as well as how to fix this problem. There are quite a few reasons for this behavior of the car’s electrical equipment, so you will have to look for a breakdown using the elimination method. It doesn't matter if the generator is working properly. It may function normally, but it will not charge. Now let's try to find out all the possible reasons.

How are the blocks separated in the machine?

The main type of block is placed in the most convenient place for the driver. In this version of the VAZ it is located on the left side of the body directly at the steering wheel. Easy access to the unit is provided using a built-in button located next to the car's headlight control.

2 backup units with relays are located separately in the right and central parts of the console just behind the dashboard. One of the fuses shown below in the diagram will be located at a distance from the rest of the list - it can be found in a special compartment behind the main fuse block, next to the mounting block. To timely repair electrical equipment on a VAZ-2110, you need to learn how to quickly determine the location of a blown fuse, and also know which elements of the car its failure will affect.

Advice: very often one burnt valve can lead to replacing the vacuum booster on a VAZ-2110. That is why it is important to check not only the general condition of the fuse, but also the parts that interact with it, for example, the injector.

How the charging system works

The battery in any car, in particular in the VAZ 2107, is only necessary for the functioning of the power supply system while the engine is turned off. But when the engine is running, all electrical equipment runs from the generator. It provides power to the injector - nozzles, fuel pump, electronic control unit. But the main load is the battery. It charges while the engine is running.

And the service life of the battery directly depends on how well the charging occurs. A generator is just one source of electricity. But it may be in working condition, but charging is not going to the battery. There can be a lot of reasons for this behavior; you need to thoroughly study the electrical circuit of the charging circuit of the VAZ 2107 car.

Additional block

It is located under the center console and is covered with a lid. One part is accessible from the right side.

Designation

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1. 15A - Ignition module, controller
2. 15A - Canister purge valve, vehicle speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor (heating), air flow sensor
3. 15A - fuel pump, fuel pump fuse, injectors
4. Electric fan relay
5. Fuel pump relay
6. Main relay (ignition relay)

The other part is on the left side of the console:

Decoding

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1. Central locking control unit
2. Immobilizer block
3. Relay for turning on rear fog lights.

On our channel we also prepared a video on this publication. Watch and subscribe.

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Do you know how to make the material better? Write in the comments.

Source

Battery charging circuit

The same scheme is used not only on the VAZ 2107; a similar one is used in any other car. The only difference is in the components - they are designed for different currents and operating modes. Charging circuit:

• the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the metal body by a thick copper bus;
• the entire electrical system of the car is connected to the positive terminal - there are two buses: to the starter and the generator (“30” terminal);
• from the positive terminal of the generator, voltage goes to the fuse box and ignition switch;
• from the ignition switch the voltage goes to the mounting block with fuses;
• only after it is power supplied (protected by fuse F10) to the control lamp, signaling insufficient charging, as well as to the voltmeter - a device that measures voltage;
• After this, power is supplied to the fuse box and goes to the “61” terminal of the generator set - to the brush assembly.

How to check the main fuse

All cars have at least one main fuse. It is usually installed on the positive terminal of the battery or in the fuse box connected to the positive battery cable.

Often the main fuse will blow if you accidentally touch the wrong battery terminal while charging a dead battery. A sign of a blown main fuse is a lack of power and lighting inside the car.

Checking the main fuse is easy and you can usually see if it's blown. If the main fuse has blown, chances are that several other smaller fuses have also blown.

Troubleshooting algorithm

There is no need to think that charging is not happening for some very serious reason. Immediately check the condition of fuse F10, which is responsible for powering the excitation winding of the VAZ 2107 generator. But before doing this, it is better to make sure that the drive belt is intact and its tension is normal. But also pay attention to the fact that you cannot over-tighten it - there will be no recharging of the battery (provided that the regulator is operating in the intended mode), but the bearings will fail much faster.

If charging is not going well, the lamp, for example, burns at half intensity, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. Namely, in the connections between the battery and the car body. Very often oxidation occurs, which prevents normal contact. Unscrew the nut, thoroughly clean the terminal and body surface, and then install the wire in place.

But if everything is fine with the switching, but charging still does not occur, you need to look further for the reason. And the first thing to suspect is the voltage regulator. With its help, the voltage at the generator output is stabilized. If this element fails, the battery overcharges or it does not charge well. Repair of this element is impossible, and the price in stores will be about 300 rubles. There are several options for regulators:

1. A separate unit - installed on the body of a VAZ 2107 car.
2. Combined with brushes - mounted directly in the generator.

How to check the regulator will be discussed in a separate article. If it is working properly, but charging still does not occur, or it is there, but it does not flow to the battery well, look for a fault in the brush assembly. It is quite possible that the wires that connect the brushes to the contacts have broken. But the most common thing is excessive wear or clogged brushes.

Somewhat less often, failure of the diode bridge or destruction of the stator or rotor windings occurs. To determine these breakdowns, you will need to completely disassemble the generator and carry out diagnostics using a tester and megger. Along the way, of course, it is best to replace the bearings in the VAZ 2107 generator.

Voltage regulator - its main functions

On a VAZ 2110 car, the voltage potential in the generator is formed under the influence of alternating current. This phenomenon becomes possible due to the presence of silicon diodes in the generating device of the vehicle. The generator rotor (the rotating component of the mechanism) operates according to the following diagram:

• The crankshaft begins to function first. which is affected by the current;
• the crankshaft sets the movement of the rotor;
• After this, the generating device itself begins to work.

All stages of the sounded process are monitored by a voltage regulator, which is also often called a relay. It is this that is considered the main control unit of the generator.

Without a regulator, the current-generating mechanism of the VAZ 2110 will not perform its tasks, which are listed below:

• starting the generator;
• control (in offline mode) of current supply;
• “holding” in a certain voltage range.

The described relay cannot be repaired. In the event of a breakdown, the regulator must be replaced, which is done after checking the functionality of this unit.

No charging

Auto seven 2010 injector. The battery has failed to charge. When you turn on the ignition, the light on the dashboard lights up, when you start the engine, it blinks at half-glow, when you give it gas, it lights up brighter, but there is no charging at all. It appeared periodically at higher speeds, but now it has disappeared altogether. The Akum is fresh, charged, the light in the instrument panel is working. What could be the reason for watching first?

• Why might the new generator fail? – 6 answers
• Why does the VAZ 2107 battery drain quickly? – 6 answers
• The voltage regulator fails on a VAZ 2107 - 5 answers
• What causes the charging current to decrease as the speed increases? – 4 answers
• Why, when warming up, does the voltage from the VAZ 2107 generator drop? – 4 answers

Remove, disassemble, change the rectifier, eliminate antifreeze leaks from under the thermostat pipes.

Generator, diodes probably burnt out

check the diode bridge, the charge relay may not work due to the diodes, a weak glow is evidence of a broken diode on the bridge

Check it yourself so you know what to change.

Thank you very much to everyone, especially Nikolaevich. The answer was 100% correct. Antifreeze was leaking from the thermostat to the generator. I took it apart and saw the following picture: the winding is attached with 3 wires to the diode bridge and one of them burned out completely and the fastening on the diode bridge burned out. I installed a new one, soldered the contact and everything worked. Thank you all for the advice - everything was correct and to the point! Great site!

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autovazremont › Blog › The battery light does not light up, the VAZ-2107 is not charging. What to do?

Recently, returning from work, the following situation arose with me - when I turned on the ignition, the battery charge indicator lamp stopped lighting, the charging itself disappeared, and the voltmeter needle showed only the battery charge level.

Therefore, having somehow reached home, I decided to find out the reason and, after rummaging on the Internet, got to work.

First, a little theory: when the engine is running, a dead battery is charged with a constant voltage of 13.6-14.2 V from the car’s on-board network through the generator. Due to the different speeds of the engine crankshaft, in order to maintain the specified voltage, a voltage regulator (PP, “pill”, “chocolate”) is included in the generator excitation circuit, which, when the voltage in the network increases above the rated one, reduces the current going to the generator excitation winding. The magnetization of the rotor poles decreases, which leads to a decrease in its output voltage. Therefore, the reasons that the generator does not charge the battery are associated with the elements of the “excitation circuit” or the “generator-battery” output voltage circuit, including the generator itself. When the ignition is turned on, the lock (14) also turns on the ignition relay (13). In this case, +12V from the battery (1) passes through the relay contacts and fuse No. 10 of the mounting block, then is supplied to the on-board network and to the output of the battery charge indicator lamp (11) and the charging sensor in the instrument panel (12). After this, they go through the diode, the mounting block (10) (plugs Ш5-Ш10), are fed to plug “61” of the generator and go to the terminal of the built-in PP (7) and through the brush and contact ring to the excitation winding (8) - the starting excitation of the generator (4). As the engine speed increases, and with it the generator rotor, the phase voltage increases, and through a block of additional diodes (3) it increases the voltage on the excitation winding and on the output diode of the battery charging indicator lamp. When the output phase voltage reaches +12V at both terminals of the battery lamp, the voltage is equalized, and due to the absence of a voltage difference, it goes out (as when starting a car). In this case, the generator produces a voltage greater than 12V, which charges the battery through output “30”.

Main unit

The main block with fuses and relays is located in the cabin, on the left side, under the control panel. To access, press the latch switch.

Photo - diagram Option 1

Scheme Option 2

Scheme Option 3

Description of fuses

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Fuse number 18 at 25A is responsible for the operation of the cigarette lighter.

The fog lamp fuse is installed separately in the instrument panel niche behind the main unit.

Relay purpose

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• K1 - lamp health monitoring relay
• K2 - windshield wiper relay
• KZ - relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights
• K4 - relay for low beam headlights
• K5 - headlight high beam relay
• K6 - additional relay
• K7 - rear window heating relay
• K8 - rear fog lamp relay

Electrical diagram of the block

What to do if the battery on a VAZ 2107 (injector) does not charge?

There are two energy sources in a car. Battery and generator. Moreover, the generator is the main one, since it is able to charge the battery while driving. In the most extreme, desperate cases, battery energy can be used. According to various estimates, in the most optimistic case, you can drive about 100 km on a flat road on a battery. In this case, the headlights should not be turned on, the heater should not be turned off, and, preferably, the ambient temperature should be low and the speed should be constant so that the radiator fan does not turn on. And the battery will be fully charged. Only in this case all the energy will go into the “spark”.

If the VAZ 2107 engine (injector) is running and there is no battery charge, there may be many reasons.

Let's start with the generator. The VAZ 2107 (carburetor) has an alternating current generator (model 372.3701), and an alternating current rectifier is built into the design. This is a synchronous three-phase motor.

The reasons why the battery is not charging can be common, regardless of whether you have a carburetor or an injector. Let's consider the reasons when the generator is to blame, that is, there is no voltage at its terminals. This can happen because the rectifier bridges (diode), the winding and many other reasons have burned out.

Attention! Before claiming that charging has disappeared specifically in the VAZ 2107 generator, check:

• If there is incoming voltage at the generator, this does not yet prove that it is the generator that is damaged and there is no outgoing current. After all, diodes supply current to the excitation winding of the generator. In this case, the battery charge lamp will light up on the dashboard.
• It is also worth measuring the voltage in the network with a tester. If it is below 12 V, then most likely there is a short circuit somewhere, and in this case the wiring may heat up intensely.
• You should check the generator belt, or rather, its tension. If it is loosely tensioned, then instead of driving the generator rotor, the belt slides along it itself, since there is no contact.
• The generator charging relay has failed. We need to talk about this separately.

The charging relay on the VAZ 2107 (injector) is located in the same housing with the brush mechanism, and its task is to stabilize the output voltage. Several years ago there were relays that were stamped into a printed circuit board and were located under the instrument panel and were non-separable. In the figure, the relay is indicated by an arrow. In everyday life, due to its characteristic shape, it is called a “tablet”.

Now, with the development of microelectronics, the printed circuit board is successfully replaced by a semiconductor relay. The sizes have become smaller, and there are no problems with installation.

Let's look at different situations in which the battery light comes on.

1. Situation one - the on-board voltmeter shows the charge, the battery light does not light up, the multimeter shows 12V at the battery terminals, while the battery itself is completely discharged.

Treatment: We strip the high voltage terminals and wires, after which we measure the voltage again. If this does not lead to anything, check the voltage at the “30” terminal of the generator. Connect one electrode of the multimeter to the generator terminal, the second to ground. If in this case the voltage is slightly higher than on the battery, “stripping” the “30” terminal. If necessary, change the wire that goes from the generator to the battery.

Situation two - the light and the light indicate charging, but the battery is discharged. The voltage on the battery is normal (

14V), but when there is a load (signal, headlights, etc.), the charging arrow jerks to the extreme left position. The reason is poor tension of the generator belt, or a problem with the pulley or bearing itself.

• In addition, the cause of the above situation may be a breakdown of one of the diodes or a break in the stator winding. Do the following - turn off the ignition, then check the diodes with a multimeter; if a breakdown is detected, replace them.
• It would be a good idea to check the generator brushes. To do this, simply remove the brushes and check their length, if the length is less than five mm. I recommend replacing the generator brushes.

1. Situation three - after turning the key in the ignition, the battery lamp does not light up, while the charge sensor does not work, and the battery does not charge. The most likely cause is a blown fuse. It is designated “F10”, its rating is 10 Amp. If after replacing a new fuse you do not see any result, the reason may lie in the lock itself or the ignition relay.

1. Situation four - after turning the key there is no charging, but all devices are functioning, the battery light does not light up.

Treatment: Remove the wiring from terminal “61” of the generator, and then connect it directly to the negative (that is, to the body). If after this the lamp lights up, the reason is in the excitation winding of the generator.

• The reason may also be poor contact in the connector. It is necessary to clean everything properly and check the result; if it is not there, it is very possible that the lamp has burned out. If the problem is not in the light bulb (it burns dimly or intermittently), then other indicators will also light dimly or intermittently; if this only happens with the battery indicator, then perhaps the reason is in the light bulb itself.

1. Situation five - after turning on the ignition, the battery light comes on, and after starting the engine it does not go out, while charging is either intermittent or does not exist at all. The reason for this behavior may be poor contact of the wire with the connector on the dashboard.

After all the above checks, check the relay regulator and apply voltage to its contacts. Check the voltage on the brushes, if it is 12V, the relay is working properly. Otherwise, replace the relay regulator.

What reasons can cause the charging relay to fail?

Only two, not counting severe damage to the generator housing:

• “planned” wear of brushes, which are graphite electrodes. In this case, the contact is gradually broken and disappears completely. As a result, no current is supplied to the excitation winding of the generator, and it does not work;
• A short circuit has occurred in the electrical circuit itself, while there is an output current on the generator and battery, but it is higher than 14.8 V.

The charging relay is located on the generator, on its back cover, and, no matter what shape and color the “tablet” is, a yellow wire comes out of the generator body to it. The relay is located so that it can be replaced without removing the generator. But for convenience, the pictures show work on a removed generator.

Relay and fuse blocks VAZ 2112: description and explanation

Modifications of mounting blocks and fuses of the VAZ 2112 have changed more than once during the production of the model. Radical innovations were introduced only in 2002 after the appearance of a 16-valve injector.

In 2006, there was only one unit in the cabin, and in 2007 a console unit was added to it. This happened thanks to changes in the shield and gearbox, and the addition of a Europanel. The cover of the main unit became hinged, which simplified access to the fusible elements. Separate inserts outside the mounting blocks, for example, under the brake pad, have been preserved.

How to replace the charging relay?

• Important! First, as always, we turn off the ground, remove the negative wire from the battery terminal, then remove the yellow wire going from the generator to the relay, then use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it;
• Then we take it out together with the brushes:
• Now we need to carry out diagnostics. To do this, we test the voltage on the brushes with a voltmeter, and we power the relay itself from the battery, “simulating” the rectified current of the generator. At the same time, we apply (+) to terminal “B”, to the yellow wire, and connect (-) to the other terminal, “ground”. We are familiar with the signs of trouble. If you don’t have a tester, you can take a 1-3 W, 12 V light bulb.
• When installing a new relay, you need to press it firmly during installation, since new, unworn brushes provide more resistance.

If after taking these measures there is no effect, you need to look for the cause in the generator, we’ll talk about this next time. At the same time, remember that if you are removing a generator, then either you have decent knowledge in electrical engineering, or you have someone to give it to. There is no third option, especially if you have an injector.

In conclusion, let me tell you about several other reasons for the lack of charging or imitation, and also give advice:

1. If you have a VAZ 2107 injector, then it is strictly not recommended to reset the battery terminal for various “checks” while the engine is running, and especially to allow strangers near the hood for this purpose. This is very harmful to electronic “brains”.
2. It is advisable for those who like to “light up” to be able to say a firm “no” if you have a VAZ 2107 injector.
3. On the instrument panel, the connectors are not soldered to the board, but riveted. Therefore, in some cars in the cold, while the interior is cold, there is no contact with the charging lamp. It lights up, simulating a lack of current from the generator. After the interior has warmed up, contact is restored and the lamp goes out.
4. The next reason for those who like to go to the car wash in the cold. When water gets into the relay and brush assembly and freezes there, there is no charging. The solution is to heat it with any powerful hairdryer.

If you find that your VAZ 2107 is not charging the battery, measures must be taken immediately. Continued use of the vehicle may result in battery discharge. You will have to either look for a travel companion willing to tow the car, or call a towing service.

Help. Accidentally shorted the positive terminal

Users

4 messages

• Name: Pasha
• Irkutsk city

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#2

PROFI

3,833 messages

We disconnect the terminals from the battery, turn on any consumer (for example, the light or ignition is not important), measure the resistance between ground and the removed positive terminal. Should show some value

If 0 - open circuit. We call the wiring and look for a nikontakt.

PS. Check the ground; if it closes, the contact could be lost if there is oxidation.

1

All toasts will come true!

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Users

4 messages

• Name: Pasha
• Irkutsk city

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#4

PROFI

4,487 messages

• Name: A
• City Earth
• Hobbies: www.atv51.ru & www.snow51.ru & www.ozerko51.ru
• Technique: Carrot, cyborgbundo and short liter

maybe your red button is turned off?

I quit this forum due to differences in views with the local administration... whoever needs me will find me on specialized sites.

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#5

PROFI

3,249 messages

• Name: Lyubomir
• Cheboksary city
• Hobbies: SnowQuadroHydro
• Equipment: BRP SUMMIT 154 850 E-TEC,XT-P 1000,SPYDER RT,SPYDER RS,RXP X300RS and bicycle

Happens often in kipish

And we shorted while tightening the terminals in the field. Everything worked fine after that.

BRP Center EXTREME CheboksarySnowmobiles in Cheboksary | ATVs in Cheboksary | Jet skis in Cheboksary | Boat motors in Cheboksary

Sale. Service. Guarantee. Tuning. Equipment Accessories.

Tel |

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Users

4 messages

• Name: Pasha
• Irkutsk city

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#7

PROFI

4,487 messages

• Name: A
• City Earth
• Hobbies: www.atv51.ru & www.snow51.ru & www.ozerko51.ru
• Technique: Carrot, cyborgbundo and short liter

I quit this forum due to differences in views with the local administration... whoever needs me will find me on specialized sites.

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Users

443 messages

Moscow city

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PROFI

975 messages

• Name: Andrey
• Moscow city

1

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Users

4 messages

• Name: Pasha
• Irkutsk city

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PROFI

3,833 messages

Theory “on fingers”: how everything works

On the VAZ 2107, devices can receive power from 2 sources. The first is the battery, the second is the generator. The battery supplies energy when the engine is turned off. It has a certain charge, consumed as needed. The generator produces electricity, but only if the rotor is spinning. That is, with the engine running.

Battery operation diagram: 1. Battery, 2. Negative diode, 3. Additional diode, 4. Generator, 5. Positive diode, 6. Stator winding, 7. Regulator, 8. Rotor winding, 9. Capacitor, 10. Mounting block, 11. Control lamp, 12. Voltmeter, 13. Ignition relay, 14. Lock.

Indicator light

As can be seen from the diagram, the charging system involves a large number of components and each of them can cause poor charging or its absence. To monitor the battery charging process, the car's dashboard is equipped with a control light.

If the system is in good working order, the control signal turns on after the factory. But when the engine enters operating mode, the VAZ 2107 battery charging light does not light up. This means that the battery's energy supply is replenished from the generator. At the same time, the needle on the voltmeter moves to the green sector.

Signs of a battery not charging:

• The VAZ 2107 battery charge arrow twitches.
• The control signal does not go out. In some cases, the VAZ 2107 battery light blinks.
• The voltmeter needle does not go to the green zone after starting the engine.
• When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should remain around 13.9.
• The permissible deviation in any direction does not exceed 0.3 V. Undercharging of the VAZ 2107 battery within these limits is not yet dangerous.

A voltage drop to 12 V says: the generator is not charging! lamp is dimly lit - the battery is undercharged.

Video - Battery protection from theft

Each of you has probably noticed a little red box on the instrument panel indicating the battery. We all know that it lights up when you turn the key in the ignition and goes out when the engine starts. Why is this happening? When you insert the key and turn it in the ignition, automatic diagnostics of almost all engine systems (ABS, ESP, Airbag, Check Engine, etc.) occurs; after a successful self-test, the indicators go out, which indicates the serviceability of one or another system. The same is with the battery, when it is ok, the indicator goes out, in case of problems with the battery, the battery lamp lights up.

Where to start checking

If the VAZ 2107 battery icon does not light up, the voltmeter gives normal readings, but the battery does not charge, which means there is no (or insufficient) contact at the terminals. Their severe oxidation can cause the voltage from the generator to the battery simply not to flow. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the terminals, thoroughly clean them, as well as the battery terminals, then reconnect the battery to the on-board network and check the functionality of the charging system.

In the case when the voltage on the VAZ 2107 battery is still below normal, you need to measure it at the output from the generator with the engine running. Is there a big difference between the readings on the terminal and on the battery? Try cleaning the contacts and checking the wire connecting the battery to the generator. Broken - requires replacement.

The next element that is checked is the generator drive belt. If it becomes loose, it will slip along the pulley, which is why the generator will not be able to generate the required amount of electricity. And although charging will be carried out (provided the circuit is in good condition), it will not be enough. At the same time, the engine is running, the voltmeter shows the norm. However, if the system is loaded a little more - for example, by turning on the headlights - then the voltage drops sharply. Then, if the battery charge on a VAZ 2107 disappears, this indicates that the tension belt is loose and slipping. The belt should be tightened; if it wears out during operation, replace it. But you can’t overtighten either: excess belt tension puts an overload on the pumps and generator bearings.

The third component of the circuit that is checked during the initial diagnosis is fuse No. 10 (in the fuse box). It is he who is responsible for supplying voltage to the battery: the VAZ 2107 battery charging fuse has blown - the system will not work.

If everything is in order with the terminals, belt, fuse, the reasons for poor charging of the VAZ 2107 battery need to be looked for further.

How to understand what exactly caused the light bulb to burn? How to fix the problem?

If the battery light is on while the engine is running, do not turn it off, open the hood and check the voltage at the battery terminals. If charging is supplied to the multimeter, the voltage should be 13.5-14.3V. If there is no charging, the voltage will be much lower - approximately 12V.

To solve the problem you will need:

1. Two screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
2. “Control” (12V light bulb);
3. Multimeter;
4. Pliers, a knife and sandpaper to clean the contacts.

What else to check

1. Voltage regulator;
2. Generator rectifier unit;
3. Diodes;
4. Generator for broken windings;
5. Generator brush assembly;
6. Contacts on the terminals of the generator, mounting block.

A malfunction of any of these elements leads to the fact that the charging system is inoperative and the VAZ 2107 battery is not charged.

Let's continue... Diodes are checked with a test light or multimeter. If one of them is broken, the entire rectifier will have to be replaced.

To check the stator winding you need the same device. The resistance between the fasteners of the rectifier unit is measured. If there are no contacts between them, you need to replace either the winding or the entire generator.

The generator itself often fails due to wear on the brushes. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly and measure the length of the elements. If it is 5 mm or less, the brushes must be replaced.

Almost all of the above system components are replaced when they fail, since they cannot be repaired. Only some of the generator problems can be repaired, but this can only be done by a qualified auto electrician.

The worst thing is if problems with recharging occur while on the road. Without recharging the battery, it will eventually run out completely. And even if you manage to find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, you will no longer be able to start the engine with the starter. It will be possible to start a VAZ-2017 with a dead battery only from a tug or pusher.

Is it easy to get confused with connecting terminals?

In order not to accidentally get confused when connecting the terminals to the batteries, the negative terminal was made thinner than the positive one. That is, it will be very difficult to put the negative one on the positive contact, and the positive one cannot be simply attached to the negative contact. In addition, next to each contact there will be symbols “+” and “-”. Sometimes they are also distinguished in red and black (blue).

If the designations have been erased and it is impossible to determine where the “plus” and “minus” are, then there is no need to guess. To avoid confusion with the connection, it is recommended to use a tester or multimeter to determine the polarity of the battery. Even a severely discharged battery will be able to provide sufficient voltage to perform such a diagnosis.

Poor indoor lighting or work in the dark can also result in battery polarity reversal. Therefore, even if it is not possible to organize normal lighting, when connecting the battery, you can turn on the cell phone and accurately determine the polarity.

What to consider when choosing a new battery

According to the passport, the battery is designed for 3-5 years of active use (in reality it turns out to be less). Therefore, over time, it becomes necessary to buy and connect a VAZ 2107 battery instead of a failed one.

When purchasing a new battery, you should consider a number of parameters and characteristics. Battery type: serviced and maintenance-free. The first option allows you to check and replenish the electrolyte level. This makes it possible to use the battery longer.

The next question is: what power will the battery on the VAZ 2107 be most efficient. Batteries with a capacity of 50–60 Ah are suitable for this model. However, given that modern cars are equipped with energy-intensive equipment, it is better to opt for more capacious batteries. In addition, carburetor VAZ models require more powerful batteries - they consume more energy when starting. In terms of dimensions, the VAZ 2107 requires power supplies with dimensions of 242*175*190 mm. The vast majority of samples available on the market fit them.

When choosing a battery, you should also take into account the place of residence of the owner of the “Seven”. For those who live in the south, you can purchase a less powerful battery. Northerners are advised to prefer a battery with a higher capacity: in the cold, the car starts with high energy consumption.

Confronting attackers

Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”

Experts offer several options for preventing theft.

• Secure parking or secure garage.
• installation .
• Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
• Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
• Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.

But all experts agree that the most reliable protection for the VAZ 2107 battery against theft is comprehensive. A combination of multidirectional measures will give the best results!