Cars from domestic manufacturers have always had plenty of problems. Yes, in the early and mid-80s of the last century, the Russian automobile company AvtoVAZ made a splash with its technologically equipped and affordable copies - and nothing has changed since then. True, nothing has changed in the bad sense of the word.
The same technologies are used: low-power, albeit high-resource engines, primitive design and interior, low-quality interior materials, unpleasantly surprising safety test results. And this is not to mention the fact that the list of problems remains the same, despite the fact that every few years each model range undergoes a deep restyling. And this, for a second, is in 2022. In fact, the VAZ is only suitable as a means of transportation “from point A to point B”, because comfortable movements on it are completely excluded.
Thematic forums are constantly replenished with new problems of the so-called pelvis valves: either the turn signals stopped turning on, or the stove broke for no reason, or even you can’t go anywhere with your iron friend - it doesn’t want to start.
How to determine if the engine is overheated
At first glance it seems very simple - according to the indicators of the engine temperature device, or - sensor. This is true, if not for one thing - novice motorists are so captivated by the road situation around them that they look at the instrument panel only in one case - how much fuel is left. Experienced motorists, on the contrary, due to their confidence in their abilities, also do not look at the car’s dashboard.
And as a result, a situation often arises that overheating is detected when the engine temperature has long exceeded permissible limits, and irreparable damage has been caused to the engine. It is irreparable overheating that is one of the most complex malfunctions, which leads to very serious consequences. But more on that later.
But there is a way that will not let you miss the moment of overheating. This is problematic in a traffic jam, and is not always clearly present, but here’s what you should be aware of:
As soon as the engine temperature exceeds the permissible norm, when you sharply press the gas pedal, or when accelerating the car, even slightly, detonation knocks are clearly heard, which are popularly called “tapping fingers.” This is not true, but everyone knows this definition. If you hear such a sound, there is a 99% chance that the engine has overheated, and action must be taken.
Detonation knock is a loud metallic knock, the frequency of which coincides with the engine speed. You've probably heard such sounds when refueling with low-quality fuel. I personally don’t know where the concept of “tapping fingers” came from. But the real reason for such knocking noises is a disruption in the fuel combustion process. What you hear is nothing more than explosions of the fuel mixture. During normal engine operation, the combustion process is controlled, but as soon as one of the operating parameters is violated, the process goes out of control and combustion turns into an explosion. Hence the concept - detonation (from the word detonate - explode) knocks. When the engine overheats, this is the first sign.
How to Avoid Failures
Having talked about how to eliminate gas pedal failures that occur on a car, it is worth talking about how to completely avoid their occurrence. So, the most common cause of their occurrence is wear of the spark plugs. Therefore, you should always check their condition, prevent clogging and oxidation, and, if necessary, replace them.
It is worth remembering that it is highly recommended to replace spark plugs as a “set”, even if only one of them is seriously damaged.
In addition to spark plugs, high-voltage wires should also be periodically monitored (despite the fact that they have a long service life, core breaks and breakdowns of protection are far from uncommon).
Another very common cause is clogged filters, and especially the air filter. This element is a direct participant in the chain of formation of the working mixture, and that is why its contamination (or even damage) can immediately affect the operation of the engine.
The last thing you should pay attention to in order to avoid unpleasant gas failures is the quality of the fuel. If you notice that at the nearest gas station it has dropped significantly (and the car reacts to this), then you should not continue to use it - it is better to try refueling at a pump of another company (or several companies). In this way, you can find the highest quality gas station and ensure reliable operation of your car’s engine.
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Causes of engine overheating
The temperature indicator needle has entered the red zone, which means the engine is overheating. Many car enthusiasts remember the reasons for the effect on old Zhiguli cars. On 16-valve engines, the reasons for this effect are almost the same. Let's consider what reasons may cause the main power unit to begin to overheat:
- Lack of coolant. The liquid in the engine boils not because there is not enough of it, but here’s why: remember about the outer surface for cooling? If there is a lack of fluid, the contact surface between the fluid and the heated engine is insufficient, and heat transfer to the environment is poor. This is where the overheating comes from. The engine cooling system is not sealed, as many believe, and fluid evaporates during operation - do not forget to check its level regularly. And of course, monitor the condition of the radiator and pipes - leaks are unacceptable. There are cases of internal leakage - as a result of damage to the gasket between the head and the cylinder block. Water will not flow out of the exhaust pipe, but a constant decrease in the fluid level without visible leaks is a reason to be wary and contact a specialist. Water accumulated in the cylinders at the moment of starting the engine can lead to water hammer - this can literally destroy the piston group, and not only that.
- Radiator condition. The gaps between the radiator honeycombs are quite small and can gradually become contaminated by representatives of the insect world. This is not a joke; there was a case when minor contamination of the radiator (coupled with the poor condition of the engine) led to constant overheating of the car. Keep the radiator clean and blow it with compressed air at least occasionally.
- Incorrectly set ignition angle. If the ignition angle is violated, the fuel combustion process is disrupted. As a consequence, an increase in combustion temperature and a decrease in power. The power has dropped, but there is no need. What are we doing? That's right - press the gas pedal harder. It turns out that more fuel is spent on the design operating mode of the engine (at which normal cooling occurs). Hence the overheating. By the way, an ignition problem can arise (spontaneously, and not after your intervention in the finely tuned engine mechanism) if the timing belt or chain is stretched. This is not the only possibility, but it is common - keep in mind.
- Fuel quality. An inappropriate octane number leads to a decrease in power and an increase in the temperature of fuel combustion. There is only one way out - refuel in one place, so the likelihood of getting bad gasoline is lower.
- Deposits on the walls of the engine and radiator. The reason is simple - the use of low-quality coolant, or even water. A little more detail. From a physics point of view, using water is better, since water has better thermal conductivity than alcohol-containing antifreeze. But - there are salts in the water (you can see them on the walls of the kettle) - the same thing happens inside the engine. As a result, water circulation is disrupted, cooling efficiency is reduced and the engine overheats. If you are pouring water into the expansion tank, pour distilled water, it is free of salts. It is best to use special antifreeze. Believe me, it is impossible to completely remove scale from the engine. And one more “beauty of water: if, after water, for example in winter, you fill in antifreeze - be prepared for drips (it can leak anywhere: radiator, pipes) - this is a fact. If you constantly drive “on antifreeze,” nothing will happen, but after water, antifreeze will flow 99%.
- Engine wear. This can include many aspects, but in most cases it is wear of the piston group. During long-term use of the car, the piston rings, which serve to seal the combustion chamber, wear out, which leads to a decrease in compression, impaired fuel combustion, loss of power (remember the formula) and overheating of the car. Somehow it turned out to be too difficult. To put it simply: fuel burns better at a certain pressure that is created in the combustion chamber. Pressure is about 12 atmospheres. If you take a pipe, plug it with potatoes and blow inside, pressure will be created inside, which is called compression. The force with which you blow will represent the force of expansion of the fuel during combustion, which pushes on the piston and causes the crankshaft to rotate. The rings serve to fit the piston more tightly to the cylinder (in our case, potatoes and tube). Now, if you put in a loose piece of potato and blow, the air will pass past the potato piston. This is what happens in the engine when the piston group wears out (ring wear and cylinder wall wear). As a result, part of the expansion energy of the fuel during combustion passes by the piston (between the piston and the cylinder), and compression (optimal pressure in the combustion chamber) decreases, which worsens the quality of combustion. And again - loss of power and overheating. There is only one way out - contact a specialist.
- Radiator fan. In some (older) car models, there was no such reason, since the fan was driven directly from the crankshaft through a belt. Now, the fans are electric and turn on when the temperature sensor is triggered. The sensor may not work, and the fan may not turn on. This is a fairly common reason. You just have to go out and look - the motor connection contacts may be oxidized.
- Air pockets formed when filling liquid. By the way, in this case the temperature sensor may not show an increase in temperature. How to get rid of a traffic jam is the topic of a separate article. I’ll add on my own – when pouring liquid into the cooling system, the car must be horizontal.
- Thermostat. The thermostat divides the cooling system into two circles - small and large. The small one is used to warm up the car (the amount of liquid is reduced, the radiator is turned off), when a certain temperature is reached, the large circle is connected (the radiator is connected). If the thermostat is jammed, then only the small circle is used: the amount of fluid is insufficient, the radiator is turned off - the car is overheating. You can determine this by feeling the lower pipes leading to the radiator: if they are cold and the car is overheated, change the thermostat.
- Water pump. A pump is a pump that forcibly displaces water to improve circulation. By and large, two troubles can happen to the pump: it will simply leak - you will see, and the second, which is more difficult to determine, is wear of the pump impeller. When the impeller wears out, the pump slowly pumps liquid, as a result, the liquid in the engine heats up faster than in the radiator (water circulation worsens). You can tell by uneven heating - the radiator is cold, but the engine is boiling. Attention - the same symptoms occur if the thermostat is malfunctioning or if there is an air lock.
All these problems can cause the engine to overheat.
Why does the VAZ 2112 16 valves not heat up to operating temperature?
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There is an opinion on this forum that there are no miracles in the cooling system... And this opinion is justified. All possible bugs have long been calculated, and ways to solve them have been found. In the FAK everything is described in detail more than once..
Can temperature be expressed in numbers? And preferably by BC, and not by tidy.
Watch the temperature difference between the lower and upper radiator pipes; if they get warm at the same time, use a thermos. Check to see if there is a trickle in the expansion tank from the steam pipe; if there is none, and when you press the gas, there is also no trickle, and the pipe is not clogged, look at the pump.
Miracles don’t happen, 99% if it cools down quickly while driving, it’s the thermostat bypassing, just drive in the cold and feel the engine and the hoses on the radiator with your hand and everything will be clear.
I have a ’99 car, also 21102 - at minus 20 on the highway, excellent warm air pours out of the stove, my right leg gets fried.
P/S/ Or maybe the previous owner threw a hose around the thermos. sort of solved the problem and sold the car in the summer
