Car battery is not charging (5 reasons). 8 decisions what to do

As you know, the battery is an important element in the design of any car. At the same time, the battery constantly consumes energy to start the internal combustion engine, and also powers various electronic devices connected to the on-board network. Normally, the battery is charged from the generator after the engine is started, but for a number of reasons this process can be disrupted.

As a result, the battery is not fully or partially charged, which causes problems with starting the engine, deteriorates the condition of the battery, etc. Also, a problem with charging the battery often indicates certain breakdowns that require elimination and are in no way related to the battery itself. Next, we will look at why the battery is not charging, as well as how to check, find and fix the problem yourself.

How do you know if the battery is not charging?

The battery does not charge from the generator . The first signal that the battery is not charging is a lit red battery light! And to make sure of this, you can check the battery voltage. There should be 12.5... 12.7 V at the battery terminals. When the engine is started, the voltage will rise to 13.5... 14.5 V. With consumers turned on and the engine running, the voltmeter readings, as a rule, jump from 13.8 to 14.3V. No changes on the voltmeter display or when the indicator goes beyond 14.6V indicates a generator malfunction.

Primary diagnosis

The built-in indicator will help you identify the weak charge of one of the main electrical appliances. Manufacturers set the green color in the eye to determine the quality level, and the remaining colors will be signals to the owner about a weak charge or its absence. The worst sign of a bad battery is silence when you turn the key in the ignition.

It is worth paying attention to alarm signals in the form of temporary failures in starting the engine. You need to test the battery charge using a multimeter. To do this, several tests are carried out:

general voltage level without load;
total voltage under load;
charge level for each “bank” under load and without it.

The difference in individual capacitances should not exceed the range of 1.7-1.8 V.

Battery charge level monitoring

The electrolyte density in the batteries being serviced is tested. The accuracy of the measurements is ensured by the fact that samples are taken for all containers. Deviations from the norm during cold periods of more than 25% must be eliminated. For warm seasons, a deviation of 40% or more is critical.

Causes of malfunction of starter car batteries

The service life of a battery discharged by 25% is significantly reduced if:

Read also: The puppy does not sleep at night. What to do?

malfunction of the generator and voltage regulator;
starter malfunctions leading to an increase in current or an increase in the number of attempts to start the engine;
oxidation of power wire terminals;
constant use of powerful consumers during long periods of idle time in traffic jams;
repeated cranking of the crankshaft with the starter on short trips.

A reduced electrolyte level during battery operation is also a key reason for rapid battery failure. Therefore, the cause of the malfunction may be:

Rare electrolyte level monitoring. In summer, checking should be done more often because high temperatures promote rapid evaporation of water;
Intensive use of the car (when the mileage is more than 60 thousand km per year). Requires checking the electrolyte level at least every 3-4 thousand kilometers.

Recommendations

To extend the life of your iPhone or Android phone, here are some tips you should follow:

Do not let the gadget fall.
Do not discharge the battery too often (no more than once every 2 months) completely to 100 percent. It is ideal to keep the level from 20% to 80%.
Do not abuse the use of a low-power universal charger, even a new one.
Install anti-virus protection on your phone.
Do not leave the device in the cold or heat (operating temperature from +3 to 45 degrees).

Fast charging options

If the battery does not take current from the charger

There are a number of external devices for charging batteries, on which the battery charging process may depend. The same tester will help to check the functionality of external equipment. They measure the voltage at the battery terminals. But now the test is performed with the engine turned off and the wires disconnected.

A voltage in the range from 12.5 to 12.7 V can be considered normal. If, after the battery is connected and the engine is started, the voltage does not rise to 13.5-14 V, try increasing the engine speed and then observe whether it changes terminal voltage. If a voltage drop is noticeable at high speeds, the cause may be diodes in the generator regulator relay. It is also useful in a situation where the battery does not take a charge to assess the condition of the generator brushes. They are subject to natural wear and tear during operation.

The diodes can be replaced separately or a completely new relay can be installed. The diode passes voltage, if it is in normal condition, only in one direction. If the current flows in both directions, it means the element has failed. It should be borne in mind that to replace these diodes you need a soldering iron with a power of 600 W or more and some experience in handling it.

After replacing the diodes, it is necessary to observe their operation. If they heat up when the engine starts, too much current is supplied to the battery, which is undesirable and even harmful for the battery. In addition, if the temperature is high, the diode cannot last long enough. Therefore, if the reason is still in these parts, it is easier to replace the entire relay completely.

A little theory

According to science, the process of filling modern lithium-ion energy storage devices occurs in two stages:

The power controller chip passes direct current until the terminal voltage is between 4.2 and 4.33 volts.
When the calculated charge reaches approximately 85% of the full capacity, the current gradually decreases to 15-30 milliamps (at 97-100%), while the voltage is maintained at 4.2V.

What does the process look like in general?

The smartphone “understands” that it’s time to start charging when the output voltage reaches the critical limit of 3.5V-3.6V. This value corresponds to 0% on the indicator, in the usual “coordinates” in Android or iOS.

It must be remembered that the % in the upper right corner is a relative value calculated mathematically by the driver from the current output voltage value and the hypothetical capacity of the power supply. Over time, due to the aging of the element, the occurrence of irreversible chemical processes and, in general, degradation of the material, the thresholds shift downward, so calibration is required. Without this, the battery may begin to discharge abruptly (jerks), for example, work for a long time at 50-60%, and then instantly go to zero.

Main consumers in mobile technology

Now food for thought. A cell phone consists of many modules, but the main consumers in modern mobile phones are:

Camera - up to 600 mA,
Wi-Fi in network scanning mode and active data transfer - 100-300 mA,
Processor under active load (in our example, the CPU is used to draw maps) - 100-300 milliamps,
Display with maximum backlight level - 100-300 mAh,
GPS chip in satellite search mode - 200-300 mA,
Camera LED flash - 150-200 milliamps.

Taken together, this results in high energy consumption when actively using technology, for example, as a power-hungry navigator or video recorder in a car.

Total:

if you turn on the backlit camera on your mobile phone,
resource-intensive application with high traffic consumption,
turn up the display brightness (especially amoled) to maximum,

Peak consumption will be 1.7 amperes per hour

If you use a 1 amp charger or a heavily damaged USB cable, the battery will be discharged rather than charged.

Control of other elements of the charging system

To determine why the alternator is overcharging or not charging the battery at all, you may need a multimeter. Using the tester, you can measure the battery voltage in two modes. With the engine turned off, the charge parameter should be in the range of 12.5-12.7 volts, and with the engine running - 13.5-14 volts. If these indicators are lower when the internal combustion engine is switched on, this may indicate problems in the operation of the diode bridge or brush assembly. By the way, brushes can wear out, so they need to be changed periodically.

If the cause of overcharging or lack of charging is a relay, it can be eliminated by replacing or resoldering the diodes. If the diodes will be soldered, it is necessary to select devices that are closest in technical characteristics. Otherwise they may overheat.

Winding destruction

If the generator windings are destroyed, the device will be completely inoperable. Accordingly, the battery will not be charged. It will be possible to visually determine the malfunction only after the generator housing has been disassembled and its interior can be carefully examined. You can assume a breakdown of this type by using a voltmeter. With the engine running, the probes of the device are connected to ground and terminal “30” on the generator. A generator with damaged windings will not generate electric current.

Problem with the regulator relay

A relay regulator is installed in the vehicle’s electronic system to regulate the moment at which charging current is supplied to the battery. If this part is completely or partially faulty, then serious problems may occur with restoring the battery's electrical potential. It is very difficult to repair a faulty relay-regulator, and contacting specialized workshops for this purpose is economically unjustified. For this reason, if the lack of battery charge is caused by the failure of this part, then it must be replaced with a known good element.

In order not to mistakenly dispose of a relay-regulator suitable for further use, it must be checked. This can be done using a multimeter using the following algorithm:

Switch the device to DC measurement mode.
Start the engine.
Set the engine to idle.
Measure the voltage on the battery (this parameter should be 13.2-14 Volts).
Increase engine speed to 2500 rpm.
Measure the voltage again, which should be within 13.8 Volts.
Increase engine speed to 3500 rpm.
Measure the voltage again, the value of which should not exceed 14.8 Volts.

If significant deviations from these voltage values are detected, the relay regulator should be replaced.

Reason. The battery does not have enough time to fully charge

The reason is typical for situations where the car is used for short trips, not exceeding tens of kilometers per day. For example, we went to the store, and that’s it – to the garage.

Firstly, while the car was standing for a long time, the battery was fairly discharged by leakage currents.
Secondly, you wasted energy from the battery when you started the engine to drive out, and when you left the store (at a minimum).

In total, a certain number of ampere-hours were taken from the battery, which the generator simply did not have time to return during a very short trip.

No charging process

The fact that the generator is not charging the battery can be indicated by a diode indicator located on the instrument control panel. As a rule, this icon is depicted in the form of the battery itself, and when the electrical part of a functioning engine is working normally, it usually does not light up. You can see this indicator on the dashboard after you turn the key in the lock to position I. At this moment, diagnostics of all devices is carried out, so the appearance of the indicator at this moment is a completely normal situation. If the indicator continues to light while driving, this may indicate that the generator is not charging the battery.

Accordingly, the driver needs to solve such a problem as quickly as possible, since otherwise it can lead to more serious consequences than just an indicator appearing on the dashboard. Sometimes the generator unit does not charge the battery due to its inoperability. Moreover, there is no way to solve such a malfunction except by replacing the battery. But sometimes this may be due to improper operation of the generator.

What is a battery and why is it needed?

This device is a device that acts as a “storage” of energy, and it is stored in chemical form; it can subsequently be used to power machine systems. This can happen when two different metals in an acid solution begin to produce electrical voltage.

A battery is needed in a car to start the engine and power various electronic equipment, which is becoming more and more common on modern cars. This device is recharged from a generator while the car is moving, but periodically, especially in cold weather, it needs to be charged with a stationary charger.

During the operation of the vehicle, the battery, like other units, requires systematic monitoring and maintenance. You should monitor the electrolyte level in the battery banks and also check its density. For the central regions of the Russian Federation and most CIS countries, its value should be equal to 1.27 g/cm3

Internal causes of poor charge

A problem in which the car battery does not charge from the charger may be sulfation of the plates. During this process, the built-in plates become coated with a white coating. This produces lead sulfate. In practice, it is possible to get rid of it only in cases where the process has not affected a large area. In other cases, you will have to change the battery.

In addition to sulfotation, mechanical destruction of the plates is possible, which leads to the electrolyte in such containers turning black. Pieces of crumbled plates can cause a short circuit.

You need to know that batteries in which a short circuit has occurred should never be charged from an external power source.

A can with a short circuit can be identified by a higher temperature and evaporating electrolyte. Its volume is sometimes significantly reduced.

ACPI and chipset drivers

You can eliminate them in the following ways.

The first of them can help, if yesterday your charging was working, but today it stopped, then we follow this algorithm:

We go to the device manager (using the menu by right-clicking on “Start”)

In the “Batteries” we find “Battery with Microsoft API-compatible management” or a similar name, see if it is in the device manager.

If it is not there, then this may indicate either a malfunction or a lack of contact.

Right-click on it and select “Delete”.

Uninstalling the driver

Confirm deletion by clicking OK

Deletion confirmation

After this, be sure to restart the laptop through the “Restart” item.

Problems with the fuse

This is the first and easiest thing to check. Find the appropriate fuse in the vehicle manual (section on electrical parts). Then, having found the fuse itself in the car system, make sure the fuse is working, replace it if necessary. If the problem is not resolved, proceed to the next step.

No charge when the power supply is working

Have you returned from the store with a brand new laptop and discovered that it won’t charge, even though a licensed system was pre-installed on it?

In this case, there may be a manufacturing defect, which is unlikely, or incorrect initialization of the battery (problem with the controller).

We perform the following actions:

Turn off the laptop itself
Disconnect the cord from the laptop
Pull out the removable battery
Press the start button, holding it for 15-20 seconds
We return the battery to its place
Connecting the battery
Turn on the laptop

These steps don't always help, but at least they are safe, easy to do, and will save you time if the problem is resolved.

There are two more varieties of this method:

1. Only for the case with a removable battery - turn off charging, remove the battery, then press the power key and hold for a minute.

Then we connect in the following sequence: battery - charger.

The laptop must be left turned off for at least 15 minutes, then turned on.

2. With the laptop turned on, turn off the charging without removing the battery.

Press the start button and hold it until it turns off completely (in most computers until it clicks) for another minute.

After this is done, connect the charger and after 15 minutes, turn on the laptop.

Trouble-shooting

First you need to clean the battery terminals and the inner surfaces of the wire terminals on the battery.
If this does not produce results, the voltage at the generator output (terminal “30”) is measured relative to “ground” with the engine running (crankshaft speed 1000-1200 rpm). If the voltage is noticeably different, the contact between terminal “30” and the wire is cleaned, and the wire itself from the generator to the battery is called. As a last resort, this wire should be changed. The warning lamp and sensor (on-board voltmeter) show the presence of a charge, and the battery is flat, but checking with a multimeter shows a normal voltage of 13.6-14.2 V at the battery terminals. When a large load is turned on (for example, high beam headlights), the gauge arrow turns white scale sector.

Such symptoms may occur when the alternator belt tension is weak. It is necessary to measure the tension (with a force on the belt of 10 kgf, the deflection should not be more than 12-17 mm), and if the tension is weak, the belt is tightened or replaced.

The cause may also be a breakdown of one of the negative diodes, a burnout of one of the positive diodes of the rectifier, or a break in one of the stator phase windings. When the engine is not running, the negative diodes are checked: the “+” terminal of the battery is disconnected from the vehicle network and a test lamp is connected to it. Use the lamp leg to touch each of the three bolts securing the generator rectifier unit. If the lamp is on, the negative diode connected to the bolt is broken.

To check the positive diodes, connect the “+” terminal and disconnect the “-” terminal from the body, to which the test lamp is connected. Again, use the lamp leg to touch each of the three bolts securing the generator rectifier unit. Burning of the lamp also means breakdown of the positive diode. If you have a multimeter, simply measure the resistance of the diodes in the polarity in which the diode should be locked: for negative diodes “+” to the bolts, and “-” to the body, for positive diodes “+” to terminal “30” of the generator, and “ -" - to the bolts. A diode rectifier with a broken diode is completely replaced.

The break of one of the branches of the stator winding is checked by ringing them with a multimeter or a “tester” with a battery between the two bolts of the rectifier unit. The absence of contact of any winding with each of the two remaining ones indicates its breakage, and the generator must be repaired or replaced.

Check the generator brushes

Another reason could be wear on the generator brushes. The brush assembly from the PP is removed. If the brushes are less than 5 mm long, the unit is replaced with a new one. If the brushes are not worn out, they should be inspected for the possibility of distortion and “sticking” in the housing wells.

The charge lamp does not light up when the ignition is turned on. The charge sensor and other control devices do not work. The generator did not charge.

The cause of this malfunction is that fuse F10 (10 A) has blown. If nothing has changed after replacement, look for the reasons in the ignition lock or relay (if installed).

When the ignition is turned on, the control lamp does not light up. The charge sensor and other control devices are working. The generator does not charge.

The wire is disconnected from plug “61” of the generator and shorted to ground. If the lamp is on when the ignition is on, the generator excitation winding is faulty or there is no contact in the plug itself. The surfaces of the pins are cleaned, the bends of the plug connectors are pressed, and connected. It is checked again and if the charge lamp does not light up again, the plugs Ш5-Ш10 of the mounting block and the pins in the connector of the block with the instrument panel are cleaned. If there is no result, then the lamp itself has burned out. To replace a light bulb, the instrument panel is removed, the socket is removed from behind the panel, and the lamp is changed.

The battery light comes on when the ignition is turned on. When the engine is idling, the charge lamp lights up dimly, charging disappears or there is no charging at all.

The reason may be poor contact of the pin of the wire connection block to the instrument panel. It is attached with a rivet and often oxidizes. If you solder it to the board track, this problem is eliminated. Also, loose contact at the connection points along the wire path from the shield to plug “61” of the generator gives the same symptoms.

What can you do when your car battery is not charging?

The first step is to find out the cause, and only then take action to eliminate it. To do this, you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals, check the level, density of the electrolyte and its color. It is also, of course, necessary to visually inspect the surface of the battery, the car wiring, and also to determine the current leakage.

Let us consider in detail the possible consequences of each of the reasons for poor battery performance, and also determine what needs to be done in a given situation:

Oxidation of contact terminals

both prevents good contact and contributes to current leakage. As a result, we get a quick discharge or unstable/absent charging from the generator. There is only one way out - check not only the condition of the battery terminals, but also the condition of the generator and the ground of the car. Heavily oxidized terminals can be removed by cleaning and lubricating the oxides.

Generator malfunction

(belt, regulator, diodes).

Belt break

you would probably notice, but the fact is that even a slight loosening of the tension can contribute to slippage on the pulley (as well as oil ingress). Therefore, when powerful consumers are turned on, the light on the panel may light up and the battery will discharge, and on a cold engine a squeaking sound can often be heard from under the hood. This problem can be eliminated either by tensioning or replacement.

Diodes

in normal condition they should pass current only in one direction; checking with a multimeter will make it possible to identify the faulty one, although often they simply change the entire diode bridge. Improperly functioning diodes can cause both undercharging and overcharging of the battery.

When the diodes are normal, but they get very hot during operation, it means the battery is being overcharged. The regulator is responsible for the voltage . It is better to change it immediately. In a situation where the battery is not fully charged, you need to pay attention to the generator brushes (after all, they wear out over time).

During deep discharge

, as well as with a slight shedding of the active mass, when the battery does not want to be charged not only in the car from the generator, but even the charger does not see it, you can reverse the polarity or give a high voltage so that it grabs the charge.

This procedure is often carried out with AVG batteries when there is less than 10 volts at its terminals. Reversing the polarity allows you to start a completely discharged battery. But this will only help if the poles on the battery have actually changed, otherwise it can only cause harm.

The change of battery poles (both lead-acid and calcium) occurs in the event of a complete discharge, when the voltage of some battery banks, which have a smaller capacity than the others connected in series, decreases much faster than others. And having reached zero, as the discharge continues, the current for the lagging elements becomes charging, but it charges them in the opposite direction and then the positive pole becomes minus, and the negative pole becomes positive. Therefore, by briefly changing the charger terminals, such a battery can be brought back to life.

But remember that if the polarity change on the battery does not occur, then if there is no protection on the charger from such a situation, the battery can be permanently damaged.

Polarity reversal should be carried out only in cases of the formation of a white coating on the surface of the plates.

This process will not work if:

the plates crumbled and the electrolyte became cloudy;
one of the cans is closed;
There is no required electrolyte density in the battery.

The polarity reversal method works well for desulfation, but only no more than 80-90% of the capacity can be restored. The success of this procedure lies in the thick plates; the thin ones are completely destroyed.

Electrolyte density is measured in g/cm³. Checked with a densimeter (hydrometer) at a temperature of +25°C, it should be 1.27 g/cm³. It is proportional to the concentration of the solution and inversely dependent on the ambient temperature.

If you operate a battery discharged by 50% or less at sub-zero temperatures, this will lead to freezing of the electrolyte and destruction of the lead plates!

Please note that the density of the electrolyte in the battery should be the same in all sectors. And if in any of the cells the voltage is greatly reduced, then this indicates the presence of defects in it (in particular, a short circuit between the plates) or a deep discharge. But when such a situation is observed in all cells, it is a deep discharge, sulfation, or simply obsolescence. A very high density is also not good - it means the battery was boiling from overcharging due to the failure of the generator. Which also adversely affects the battery. To eliminate problems caused by uneven density, you need to service the battery.

Features of servicing car batteries A set of instructions for proper maintenance of car batteries of various types. Features of servicing gel, alkaline and acid batteries Read more

With sulfation

deterioration or lack of contact of the electrolyte with the plates occurs.
Since plaque blocks access to the working fluid, the battery capacity drops significantly
, and recharging it does not give any result.
The voltage either increases very slowly or does not change at all. This process is irreversible
.

But sulfation at the initial stage can be overcome by a series of cycles of full charge with low current and full discharge with minimal current (for example, by connecting a 12V 5W light bulb). Or, the easiest way to restore it is to pour in a solution of soda, which can also remove sulfates from the plates.

Short circuit of one of the cans

is a consequence of destroyed plates and the appearance of sludge at the bottom of the battery.
When trying to charge such a battery, strong bubbling of the electrolyte will occur, as if it were fully charged. The defective section will boil, but will not recharge. There is nothing to help here. The average service life of modern batteries is from 4 to 6 years.

The generator does not charge the car

The function of the generator is to ensure the operation of electrical appliances and restore battery charge. Under normal operating conditions, charging current is supplied to the battery, but if this device breaks down, restoring the battery charge becomes impossible.

Why is the battery not charging or is there a problem when there are no problems?

Every car owner should be aware that the vehicle's electrical system has the ability to automatically cut off the current supplied to the battery. For example, when the battery is charged, further supply of electricity may cause the electrolyte to boil. This phenomenon has a very negative impact on the technical condition of the battery, so if the charge level is sufficient, the electricity from the generator will not be directed to the battery.

A lack of battery charge can also be observed when the engine is idling. In this mode, the rotation frequency of the generator armature is relatively low, so this device is simply not able to generate sufficient electrical potential to charge the battery. Therefore, if there is no battery charge, this fact does not clearly indicate a malfunction of the generator or elements of the vehicle’s electrical system.

When a fault can be detected visually

If the battery charge is lost, some faults that directly affect this function can be detected visually. Wires that have turned black as a result of a short circuit and a burning smell may clearly indicate problems in the wiring through which the battery's electrical reserve is restored.

The alternator belt is made of durable rubber, but over time this material wears out. Sometimes a part breaks, so if a visual inspection of the car reveals its absence, then it is necessary to urgently install a new drive, after which the battery can be charged again. Significant oxidation of the battery terminals can also be detected visually. This pathological condition of the contacts necessarily leads to undercharging of the battery, as well as to significant difficulties when starting the engine.

With a properly functioning system for monitoring the condition of the vehicle's electrical elements, the lack of battery charging can be visually determined by the battery icon lighting up on the instrument panel. This signal persists even after starting the engine if there are problems with charging

Plaque on terminals

If scale is detected on the contacts, it is enough to clean them, after which the functionality of the parts will be restored. This simple procedure is performed using a wooden or plastic scraper. Unfortunately, the process of scale formation can be repeated after a short period of use of the vehicle. In order not to waste time on performing such work, it is recommended to treat the battery terminals with special compounds. For this purpose, you can successfully use Litol, Solidol or silicone grease.

Checking the condition of the alternator belt

An undercharged battery can be caused not only by a broken alternator belt, but also by a poorly tensioned part. To generate electricity, the dynamo armature must rotate at a significant angular velocity, but when the belt slips, this condition may not be met.

It is important to check the generator drive first when a low battery charge is detected. This reason is one of the most common for such malfunctions. Timely tightening of the generator belt will avoid the need to replace this part, because even short-term operation with significant weakening can lead to rupture of the product or its wear to the limit.

Brushes worn out

If the brushes are worn out, the generator will not be able to transmit the electric current received in its windings to the wires of the vehicle's electrical system. Such malfunctions in the operation of the part will lead not only to the impossibility of charging the battery, but also to a decrease in the efficiency of many devices. For example, at night, lighting elements powered only from a battery will not illuminate the road well enough, and the operation of the sound signal will also have significant distortion. If the car is used for a long time with the generator not working, it will also not be possible to start the engine due to the complete discharge of the battery. For conventional acid batteries, a zero discharge, as a rule, leads to the impossibility of further use.

At the first suspicion of inoperability of the generator brushes, operation of the vehicle should be stopped. Carbon current collectors are a consumable item, so purchasing and replacing them is not a big deal.

In order to make sure that the brushes need to be replaced, you cannot do without partially disassembling the generator. In most models, it is enough to unscrew the back half of the device to gain access to these parts. You can tell if the brushes are excessively worn by their appearance. These parts will be erased right down to the contact wire, or their length will be extremely short. With significant wear, brushes can also stick in their seats due to insufficient spring pressure, which serves to create tight contact between the brush and the slip ring.

Installing new brushes will completely restore the functionality of the generator.

When you need diagnostics using devices

The use of special instruments makes it possible to determine the performance of parts of the vehicle's electrical system with high accuracy. Most often, such diagnostics are required when the generator malfunction is intermittent. For example, using a voltmeter and an ammeter, you can set the exact limits of the minimum and maximum values of the most important parameters. To obtain more visual results, it is recommended to use high-precision pointer instruments. An oscilloscope can also be successfully used for this purpose.

Using instrument analysis, it is possible to detect deviations in the operation of the relay regulator, the malfunction of which also negatively affects the charging of the battery from the generator.

Fuse burned out

Some vehicles have a fuse between the alternator and the battery. This element may also fail. If the fuse is blown, the battery will not charge, so if you have such technical problems, you should check this part. Typically, the fuse is installed in a box above the battery. It is very simple to check this part: a serviceable part passes electric current, a burnt-out part does not.

Diode failure

A malfunction of the generator diode bridge is always the reason for the lack of charging current to the battery. The presence of this technical problem can only be accurately determined after disassembling the main part. Broken diodes can be identified by a change in the color of the housing. Sometimes, damaged parts may be slightly melted on one side.

The diode bridge for the generator can be purchased assembled, and installing this part is not too complicated. After installing new diodes, the car battery can be charged again as usual.

Shorting the windings to the housing

Shorting the windings to the housing makes it completely or partially impossible to generate the required amount of electricity to charge the battery. If the windings do not close constantly, but only occasionally, then diagnostics can be very difficult. If current leakage occurs constantly, then to identify it you can do without the use of expensive tools and devices. It is enough to use a 220 Volt incandescent lamp and a piece of wire. The conductor with the phase is connected to the slip ring, and the incandescent lamp is connected with one contact to the “ground” and the other to the rotor housing. If the lamp glows, then such a signal indicates that the windings are shorted to the housing. In the same way, current leakage into the stator housing is checked.

Caution should be exercised when performing diagnostic operations. High voltage is dangerous to life, so the parts being tested should be placed on a dielectric substrate, and special rubber gloves must be used when conducting research.

Reason. The battery drains a lot when parked

Diagnosed as follows. Immediately after parking the car after a day's use, the density of the electrolyte is measured. Let's say it's normal and shows that the battery is 100% charged. However, the next day, similar measurements show a decrease in density. Checking the battery voltage at rest also indicates that the battery is fairly discharged.

In such cases, if the battery is good (for example, it is new), in most cases large leakage currents are to blame. To measure them, you need to switch the multimeter to ammeter mode with a measurement range of up to 10 A, and connect it to the disconnected battery terminal. That is, make sure that currents flow from one of the battery terminals to the corresponding power wire (which you disconnected).

The normal current is considered to be within 0.07 A. It may vary noticeably on different cars. But, if you show more than the specified value, this is bad. We need to look for what is consuming so much and eliminate the cause. The easiest way to do this is by removing the fuses one by one and observing the response of the ammeter.

It is strictly prohibited to start the engine while measuring leakage currents! Conventional devices are not designed for starter inrush currents, which are more than 100 A.

Now let’s assume a situation where the leakage currents are normal, but a theoretically serviceable battery (almost new or new) is still discharged in the morning. In this case, you need to check the battery itself for current leakage. To do this, you need to disconnect it from the on-board network and measure the voltage between the positive terminal and different areas on its body. There should be zeros on the device. If there is voltage between the terminal and the case, then most likely the battery is just dirty and needs to be washed thoroughly.

Dust and dirt mixed with electrolyte vapors and settled on the body are an excellent conductor of current. It shouldn't exist.

A common cause is terminal oxidation.

When all the electronics of the car, as well as its generator and starter, are working normally, but the battery still does not hold a charge and quickly loses it, the most likely reason for this is oxidation of the terminals. When the car terminals oxidize, a dense white layer forms on them, which prevents the current from fully powering the battery, and the car battery cannot fully take electrical energy to accumulate inside itself.

To prevent such situations, you need to regularly check the condition of the terminals and be sure to clean them , as well as treat them with a special compound that prevents oxidation. The economical option in this case is solid oil, but over time it also greatly degrades electrical conductivity. Therefore, it is better to use lubricants purchased in specialized stores.

If the acid has “eaten through” the terminals thoroughly, they should be replaced immediately. It follows from this that poor or careless care of the car and all its components should not be allowed.

Due to the simultaneous use of the gadget

Why is this happening:

Everyone is accustomed to the fact that a modern smartphone can be used while charging, but this is not always true. It all depends on the level of complexity of the tasks. Some applications consume a large amount of energy, and the battery does not have time to replenish its charge or even continues to lose it while connected to the power supply. For example, this can happen if you play complex 3D games that are demanding on performance while charging. The same applies to complex software for editing videos or working with music.

It is not advisable to use a smartphone while charging, especially loading it with heavy applications | Dignited

What to do:

In such cases, you should leave the smartphone alone and make sure that the applications are not minimized, but closed (this applies to a greater extent to Android). It is better to continue loading the mobile device to one hundred percent after its battery charge reaches the same hundred percent.

Failure of the generator diode bridge

Another common problem is related to broken diodes. To diagnose, you will need a voltmeter or multimeter. To analyze, you need to start the engine, then place the probes of the device on the battery terminals and measure the voltage. After this, press the gas pedal a couple of times and watch the parameters change. If the number increases, everything is in order with the diode bridge. If it falls, it is almost guaranteed that the diode bridge is broken. This usually occurs due to a short circuit.

To correct the situation, it is necessary to dismantle the generator to further check each of the diodes. However, it is not easy to cope with this on your own: it is recommended to contact a competent specialist. At the same time, you need to check the brushes and the generator itself.

Problems with your phone or charger

Dust, debris or oxide

With intensive use of the device, contamination or oxidation of the contacts both for connecting the battery and for connecting the charger is almost inevitable. First of all, remove the back cover, take out the battery, if possible, clean the contacts. We do the same with the USB output, and also check to see if any debris has gotten into it.

Mechanical damage

We took out the battery and are looking at it carefully. If there are bulges or the battery is swollen, replace it immediately and never connect it to the mains.

Comparison of normal and swollen batteries

We look carefully at the USB output. If there is any physical damage, same thing, replace it. If the tongue is slightly beveled or bent, you can try to return it to the desired position with a flat-head screwdriver or other similar tool.

If a problem with charging appears after mechanical damage, such as a fall or impact, then most likely you will have to take the device to a specialist service center.

Charger

Usually, if the phone battery does not charge, they blame the charger, and not without reason. Simple damage to the wire may force you to buy a new cable or charger. The charger itself may burn out, and this often happens, but there are some nuances.

It is advisable to charge Android with a native charger

If for some reason you are using a non-native device that produces an insufficient number of amperes, then your battery will inexorably lose charge until it is completely discharged, but more on that later. In the most general case, use either a native charger or a similar one, pay attention to the output current.

If everything looks fine with the charger and the current strength is suitable for our phone, then we try to charge another phone with it. Depending on the success of what has been done, we either read the article further or change the charger.

Also, the smartphone may not charge well and even lose charge while on charge if its processor is too loaded. It’s worth turning off Wi-Fi and closing applications, especially heavy ones. When charging, you don't need to play or watch movies at the same time. If the charger does not provide more current, it can lead to discharge and is also harmful to the battery.

Question answer

% stands still does not add

Does not charge, or the process only occurs when it is turned off:

There is not enough charger current. For example, the charger produces 250 mAh with the required 1000 mAh.
The USB cord is of extremely low quality and does not allow voltage to pass more than 4.5 volts, such a drawdown is already critical.

Cannot charge from computer/laptop via USB

Most likely there is not enough current, for example due to artificial restrictions by the controller on the computer’s motherboard. Or the limits are triggered at the software level, you will have to look for new drivers for the USB hub of your laptop or PC.
This can happen if the cord is old or “works every now and then.” There is a short circuit somewhere in it. This is especially true for “shaggy” iPhone cables. In general, buy a new one.
Another trivial reason that is relevant for different variations of Type-C is protocol incompatibility. Each Type-C cord contains a small chip responsible for data and energy transfer. At the same time, there are a bunch of standards, for example, some cables can “refuel” a full-fledged laptop battery, while others can only exchange data.
It happens that the USB connector in laptops is longer than the standard connector from a smartphone, and the hardware simply does not touch.

From the cigarette lighter

If car charging from the cigarette lighter does not work, a similar diagnosis is carried out (see previous sections), because The principle of supplying energy to the battery is the same everywhere.

From the radio

The problem is identical with a computer/laptop.

From power bank

Not charging from the power bank - a standard situation; most often the PowerBank does not have enough output current. Or it's time to buy a new power bank. In the case of Type-c, perhaps the board limits non-standard currents and does not allow charging the battery.

From wireless charging

Not all models support the wireless power transfer function. First, make sure that the manufacturer has included this functionality in your gadget.

If you are sure that wireless transmission is provided at the hardware level, but the charge is not flowing, check:

Whether the station is not connected to the network.
Does the device move/shift from the center of the site?
Not wearing a thick case or magnetic dock.
The cable is not inserted or data is not being transferred to the computer.

If this doesn’t help, check the station itself on another device; if everything works as it should on it, take your device to a workshop. Very similar to the problem with the wireless microcontroller.

Writes moisture detected

There are two options here:

The device fell into water or another liquid (beer, wine, juice, tea, toilet). What to do is written here.
There was a strong temperature difference, for example, we came from a cold place to a warm room and condensation formed on the board. Wait a couple of hours and everything will be back to normal.

How to choose a charger for a smartphone

To choose the right charger for your phone, you need to know the technical specifications:

Connector type: Type-C (expensive, modern models), Micro-USB (inexpensive or Chinese devices), Lightning (for iPhone and iPad),
Battery capacity in milliamps, usually this value is from 2000 to 4000 mAh,
Is there support for fast charging (Quick Charge). In this case, you can buy powerful 18 Watt (3.6 A) adapters, which allow you to fill a standard battery by 50% in about 30-40 minutes,
Is wireless charging possible? You can buy a special induction “platform”. The energy transfer speed will be slightly lower than that of the wired version, but it is much more convenient to use in everyday life.

Typically, a standard complete charger produces 5-10 Watts (1-2 Amperes), which is quite enough for daily use. If you don’t want to bother, just take a regular adapter, costing 300-400 rubles.

If you have any questions, watch the video instructions:

Low or high battery temperature

Sometimes a notification “Low or high temperature...” pops up on the display, this requires an explanation.

The operating temperature of modern batteries is from +3 to 45 degrees Celsius. If these values are exceeded, the controller limits the flow of energy to the batteries. It is necessary to cool/heat the phone.

There was a strong blow or fall

Lithium-ion “products” do not like strong mechanical impact (vibration, shaking), and can fail due to strong shocks and falls. All you have to do is replace the module with a new one.

After a long period of non-use

To revive the equipment after a long period of non-use, during a deep discharge, use a “frog” to “push” and try to revive the battery.

Strange smelly liquid under the battery

Traces of leaks (evaporation) or the presence of a clear liquid with a pungent odor under the battery indicate leaking electrolyte. This can happen with an “almost new” power supply, even without signs of swelling and without significant drawdown of the capacity. To temporarily extend the life of the battery, removing and sealing the foil case of the lithium-ion drive with a small amount of epoxy glue will help.

Why you shouldn't puncture a swollen battery

We strongly do not recommend piercing the swollen foil case of a lithium-ion battery with a sharp object such as a needle, as this may result in:

Gas poisoning
If the outer shell is damaged and a short circuit occurs. Lithium metallization will occur in air, with rapid heating, followed by fire and explosion. There will be great fireworks.
Doesn't help solve the problem.

How to charge without standard charger

On the street outside the house (in the city) - go to any large shopping center and find a rack with a set of laces with different types of connectors (there are free and paid services).
Universal “Frog” - but you will have to disassemble the case of most modern devices and fold out the power cable in order to connect directly to the contacts. In any cell phone store you can find a universal charger suitable for both smartphones and iPhones. The battery can also be any.

In another way it is called a “frog”, and using such a charger is very easy: We disassemble the case, take out the battery,
We insert the battery into the spring retainer, observing the polarity - “plus” and “minus” must match.
We insert the “frog” into the outlet and leave it to charge for several hours, since the current supplied will be a small 0.3-0.5 Ampere.

At home - using 3 1.5 volt AA batteries (for example, from a TV remote control). Connect three AA or AAA elements in series: “plus” to minus.” Solder wires to the terminals and connect them to the contacts on the smartphone battery cable. The charging voltage will be 4.5 volts, which is quite enough to urgently save the situation. But this is an emergency option, not for daily use.

Non-standard methods for tourists and other extreme sports enthusiasts (do it at your own peril and risk! We do NOT recommend repeating this, it can have dire consequences):

Lemon - insert copper contacts into the flesh of the fruit, solder wires to the ends and connect to the battery,
Heat the battery case to 50-60 degrees with a hot knife, this will slightly “revive” the electrons inside the lithium-ion “filling”.
Hitting a hard surface with the flat part of the battery is not an option. 50/50 it will help, or it will completely kill the battery.

More ideas:

Can I charge through headphones?

Sometimes you can come across advice like “how to charge your phone using a 2.5 or 3.5 mm headphone jack,” but this should be taken with skepticism. There are approximately 2% of devices with such an option; modern Android and iOs sold in regular stores are not capable of this.

But there are “military versions”, devices produced in limited editions to order and other variations. If the customer wishes, the factory will implement a charging function via AUX or a standard headphone jack.

On a regular “consumer mobile phone”, don’t even think about filling the battery through the wires inserted into the 2.5 or 3.5 mm headphone jack.

If the battery does not charge from the charger

The most common reason is that the battery is completely dead and cannot “swing” with a small current in normal charging mode. This most often occurs on batteries that have not been used for a long time. Here you can try to increase the charging current and “push” the battery with a more extreme charging method. In most cases, this works, and the battery gradually restores its properties.

If you try to charge a non-working charger, the battery will also not respond at all. Then you should check the device using a multimeter or tester, or simply connect the battery to a working charger. If in this case the battery does not charge, then the reason lies inside it. You should always treat your car battery with care and never leave it unattended while charging. Especially if you charge it with a high current.

Charger in the car

The built-in charger in the car for the battery is the generator. When the motor is running, it becomes the main electrical device that supplies voltage. The speed and level of charging depends on its performance. The most common problem with its poor performance is a loose belt connecting it to the crankshaft.

Battery charging process

There may be problems with brushes that remove voltage. Their wear or loose fit will cause insufficient contact to transmit current or its complete absence. It is also worth checking the mating contacts to detect oxidation or breaks in the circuit.

Battery testing and restoration

The battery is consumable and its service life is limited to approximately 5 years. And this is with timely maintenance and proper operation - without deep discharges, prolonged exposure to frost, etc.

How can you understand that the problem is not in the on-board system, but in the battery? This is quite easy to do using simple methods. And then all that remains is to eliminate the cause.

Low electrolyte density

The density of the electrolyte is checked with a special device - a hydrometer. Measurements are taken separately in each of the cans. In the new battery the indicators are around 1.26-1.27 g/cm3. During charging, its density gradually increases. If the level does not change, this indicates that the battery is not charging. Also, a problem in the composition of the electrolyte is indicated by the presence of suspensions or turbidity of the liquid.

Recovery takes place in the following sequence:

The cloudy solution is carefully drained.
The jars are washed with distilled water.
Fresh solution is poured.
The battery is being charged.

While washing, check the condition of the plates and contacts. When performing work, use personal protective equipment.

Short circuit of plates

The battery will not charge if the lead plates inside it are shorted. This can happen due to their partial or complete shedding and contact of the metal with conductive elements.

Also, the cause of a short circuit may be the failure of the separators. As a result, the positive and negative terminals touch. Such a defect can be caused by various types of deformations.

Signs of a short circuit:

decrease in electrolyte density;
rapid loss of charge;
low voltage without load (10.4-10.8 V).

In rare cases, the banks can be restored, then the battery will last for some time. However, more often in case of a short circuit the battery must be replaced.

Sulfation of plates

Often the battery does not charge well due to the formation of deposits on live parts. It may occur due to the battery being in a discharged state for a long time, due to the evaporation of water and an increase in the density of the electrolyte. This is a phenomenon in which a white mass covers the electrodes. In the initial stage, the battery can be restored by performing cyclic charging.

The battery may not be fully charged if the integrity of the case is damaged, as this provokes evaporation and leakage of the electrolyte. Cracks are sealed using soldering or adhesives. Before restoration, drain the electrolyte, and then rinse and dry the jars.

Cleaning is carried out in the following sequence:

The internal and external surfaces of the housing are washed with distilled water.
The battery is thoroughly dried.
The hull is being repaired.
The required quantity and composition of electrolyte is poured.
The battery is charged and during this process the density of the electrolyte is checked. If necessary, the composition of the solution is adjusted.
The charger does not turn off until fully charged.

Sulfation is often confused with plate failure. It is very easy to distinguish it; to do this, just check the composition of the electrolyte. The presence of suspensions in it will indicate this problem.

Some tips for extending battery life

You can keep the battery in working condition without letting it stop charging if you strictly follow the operating rules. Be sure to recharge it on time and keep the device clean. After purchasing a new battery, owners have many questions regarding the charging time and conditions of its use. Sometimes car enthusiasts do not know how to prepare a power source for installation on a car and whether it is worth doing it at all.

Any battery requires careful care and timely maintenance. This will help extend its operational life by at least a couple of years, as well as reduce interruptions in the operation of on-board electronics.

Here are 8 simple steps:

Keep the battery and its terminals clean. Without proper care, the battery will become covered with a fairly thick layer of dust and dirt within a month. And this is one of the main problems of rapid self-discharge. The body can be washed with an aqueous solution of soda, and then rinsed with clean water. You can clean sulfates or oxidation from the terminals with fine sandpaper.
Monitor the charge level. This will help you know if it is charging enough from the generator and when it needs to be placed on a stationary charger. You can check it in three ways: by reading the indicator on the battery itself, by measuring the density of the electrolyte, or with a multimeter.
Charge your battery properly. In most cases, charging from stationary devices is not required; a car generator is sufficient. If for some reason the battery is discharged by 65-70%, feel free to charge it. In addition, it is recommended to charge the battery to 100% at least once a month.
Monitor current leakage. They can be both useful (alarm operation, DVR, etc.) and harmful (devices left turned on, damaged wiring, incorrect connection, contamination or wetness, etc.). Naturally, they need to be looked for and eliminated immediately.
Make it easier to start the engine. The harder the engine cranks, the more battery energy is spent on it. Depends on many factors: fuel quality, how the ignition system is set up, the power system, air temperature and much more.
Conduct preventive training. Very useful, especially if the battery has been operating under harsh conditions. The principle is a forced controlled discharge using a special device, followed by charging it with a high current.
In cold winters, pre-charge the battery. This is especially important to do if the battery is discharged by more than half during idle time. As a result, the load on it will decrease and the service life will increase.

As you can see, there is nothing new or unusual. These eight points are easy to remember and just as easy to follow. But at the same time, the benefits from them are undeniable - the battery life increases by two or even three times. Perhaps many already follow these rules.

A reason that will surprise many: short trips

Of course, experienced drivers, as well as auto electricians, are well aware that any short trip in the cold winter causes the battery to lose its energy much faster. After all, starting the engine consumes most of the battery power. And if a person gets to work in ten to fifteen minutes, the battery simply does not have time to “swing” during the journey in order to replenish the energy that it lost when starting the engine. This may be another popular reason why the battery does not hold a charge and can discharge so quickly in the winter.

What should you do in such a situation when the battery discharges quickly in winter, during short trips? The answer is simple: to allow the battery to replenish lost capacity, make at least two or at least one trip per week lasting half an hour or more . This will help avoid its premature discharge. In addition, it is recommended to purchase batteries with higher starting currents in advance - specifically with future calculations for “cold start” times.

Operating system crash

Often the problem becomes a glitch in the Android operating system. It is designed in such a way that it does not allow the battery to discharge to zero. To do this, the OS collects statistics on the use of the device through special sensors that measure the amount of remaining charge.

Sometimes a mobile device's battery is completely discharged, causing it to not accept a charge correctly. This is due to a malfunction of the power controller.

In order to correct the situation, you need to do a factory reset by following the steps below:

Step 1: Open the settings menu of your mobile device.

Step 2. Find the “System” item (it may have a slightly different name, for example, “About phone”) and go to it.

Step 3: Go to the section called Factory Reset.

Step 4. In the window that appears, select “Delete all data.”

It is important to understand that all applications, files, pictures and music will be deleted. Therefore, it is better to make a backup copy of all files in advance or transfer them to a memory card.

How long should a phone charge?

How quickly the phone will be powered depends on the size of its battery and, naturally, on the power of the charging itself.
A new phone with a “native” charger will be charged 100% in 2-4 hours. This time is approximate, since each manufacturer has different battery sizes and memory power.

When the phone is completely saturated, it will notify you about this through a certain signal. In addition, a corresponding message will appear on the screen.

Some modern models have a fast charge function. Thanks to it, you can charge your phone 2-3 times faster.

True, it is better not to use such a function unless absolutely necessary, because this may have a bad effect on the properties of the battery.

IT IS IMPORTANT! When charging your phone, put it aside for the time being. Li-ion and Li-pol batteries are afraid of overheating, and they definitely do not need additional load on the processor. Because of this, there is also no need to charge your phone on fabric surfaces.

Video “How to properly test a generator unit”

You can learn more about diagnosing a generator at home from the video below (the author of the video is AutoHandMade).

The battery and generator are the two sources of electricity in any car. The battery starts the engine and powers the on-board network. The battery loses charge when starting and powering electrical equipment, and the generator recharges the battery and maintains the required voltage in the network.

When operating a car, sometimes a situation arises when the battery does not receive a charge from the generator or does not receive enough of it.

Why is the battery not charging?

If the generator does not charge the battery when the engine is running, it quickly discharges to the minimum permissible values. When the alternator is not charging the battery enough, it is more difficult to detect. Most modern cars are equipped with indicators that show that the battery charge is insufficient. If the icon lights up on the dashboard, this is a sign that the generator is not supplying current to the network, and the vehicle's electrical equipment is powered by the battery.

If we exclude a malfunction of the battery itself, then there may be several breakdowns due to which the generator does not charge the battery.

Fuse burned out

Check to see if the indicator on the dashboard showing the battery charge is faulty. Read the technical description for your car for information about the fuse. Check its suitability with a special device. Start the car. If the indicator icon goes out, that's good. This means there are no problems with the car generator.

Broken alternator belt

A common case is when there is no voltage coming from the generator. Even a high-quality alternator belt wears out and breaks over time. It needs to be changed after a certain mileage (manufacturers indicate this figure), and not when you discover a malfunction in the car.

Alternator belt tension is loose

This is the second reason why the generator does not fully charge the battery. The belt blade may be in good condition, but its tension weakens over time. The generator does not provide sufficient voltage to charge the battery. The reason why the battery drains quickly not only when the car is moving, but also when it is stationary is precisely because the belt tension is insufficient.

Adjusts the tension. This work will take a little time. In the future, do not forget to check the belt tension. From the car manual you will learn about the frequency (in engine hours) when you need to check this parameter.

Some time after replacing the belt, it is recommended to check the tension again. The characteristic whistle that is heard when the engine speed increases sharply will tell you that it needs adjustment. You can adjust the tension yourself. You will need a pry bar and an open-end or socket wrench.

Damaged contacts or wiring

The battery often does not receive a charge from the generator due to oxidation of the contacts or defective wires. Therefore, periodically check the integrity of the insulation and power cable connecting the generator and battery. If you find a defect in the wires or cracks in the insulation, then it is wiser to immediately replace the entire wire.

Clean the contacts from carbon deposits and oxide. When the generator operates under load, a spark appears between the brushes and the commutator, causing ionization of the air. In such an environment, the terminals oxidize and a coating appears on them, which makes it difficult to transmit voltage.

If you see oxide, remove it with fine-grained sandpaper or a soft iron brush. Carry out the work carefully so as not to damage the surface of the terminals. Otherwise, due to deep scratches and dents, the contact area will decrease, which will lead to heating at the joints. As a result, sparks will appear and the charging current will be unstable.

Generator voltage regulator faulty

The engine speed is constantly changing, so the generator voltage fluctuates widely. To stabilize the voltage, a regulator is installed on the generator. A faulty generator voltage regulator is a serious problem, but it is rare.

Conclusion

If your battery has lost its charge, in 80% of cases the fault lies in the brush assembly (tablet). Changing it is no more difficult than removing the generator. If you have basic skills in working with a multimeter and a desire to solve the problem with charging a car yourself, I can say with confidence that you will be able to do this. Don't be afraid to look for the cause of the problem yourself. With every attempt to repair something or figure something out, it will be more difficult for you to be deceived by the service.

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How to understand that the problem is in the generator

Is there any way to determine that it is the generator that has failed? There are two methods that every driver can always use, even if he is a beginner.

Start the car engine and check the battery voltage . Remember that it should be from 14.2 to 14.7 V. If the U value is less than these numbers, and the indicator light continues to light - one hundred percent, the reason is in the generator.

The second method most likely refers to traditional methods, but it is also no less accurate than checking the voltage. Wear rubber gloves to avoid electric shock and remove one terminal from the battery. If the generator is faulty, the car will immediately stall. And of course, if the generator is not in order, in addition to the constant lighting of the battery indicator light, all electrical devices on board the car will burn dimly.