The starter on the “Nine” does not turn: we are looking for the cause and a way to eliminate it

VAZ starters, despite their reliability, durability and endurance, still fail sooner or later.

The average starter life is usually 5-6 years, which is half the life of the engine. And whether there is a malfunction of the VAZ 21093 starter, or the VAZ 2109 or 21099 starter does not turn, the problem will still have to be solved by diagnosing, repairing, and possibly even replacing this electrical component.

Since the VAZ starter design differs only slightly, we will take into consideration the situation when the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn.

After turning the key in the ignition, you may find that:

• VAZ 2109,21099 starter does not work after a single click;
• The VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after a whole “trill” of frequent successive clicks;
• The starter response to turning the key is completely absent.

What to do if the starter does not work? Of course, look for the cause of this phenomenon and try to eliminate it.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after one click

reasons why the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn after a single click.

The power bolts on the solenoid relay may have burnt out. This defect leads to the fact that from the supplied 12V, only about 6-7V reaches the starter.

The fork that pushes out the starter bendix may be bent, broken, or otherwise deformed. In this situation, the bendix does not fully fit the flywheel; the cores only partially enter the coil, preventing the contacts from closing.

The teeth on the Bendix sprocket have worn out. Because of this, the solenoid relay cannot transmit voltage to the starter.

Also, the cause of the phenomenon of “one click” of the starter may be either worn-out brushes or armature bushings, or a short circuit in the winding.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after frequent clicks

A crackling sound from the starter in response to turning the key in the lock may indicate the need to charge the battery and check whether the terminals on it are oxidized or loose.

Repeated clicks are repeated due to the fact that the retracting winding retracts the core, and the holding winding cannot hold it and lets go. This can continue until the battery runs out completely.

VAZ 2109.21099 starter does not work and there is no response to turning the key

The absence of any response from the starter to turning the key in the lock sometimes indicates a short circuit in the windings (if smoke and a burning smell appears from the starter when you try to start).

If the lack of starter response is not accompanied by “special effects” in the form of smoke and a characteristic odor, you should pay attention to the condition of the additional relay and the contacts of the battery terminals.

The same reaction of the starter is observed when the ring in the starter gearbox is partially destroyed.

If the starter does not respond to turning the key in the lock, you need to take into account that the reason may lie in the key itself. If the check confirms this, it will be enough to just replace the ignition key to fix the problem.

It may also happen that after removing and disassembling the starter, you will not find any damage. Do not rush to replace it with a new one or go to a car service center. Perhaps after you clean the starter, apply new grease and reinstall it, it will come back to life.

After you find and fix the starter malfunction, try not to cause it to break down again in the future, because this lightweight device already has a hard time - the rotation of the massive flywheel and the start of movement of the entire piston group of the engine depend on its serviceability.

The starter on the VAZ-2110 does not start, does not turn or click: what to do?

The main task of the starter in a VAZ-2110 car is to start the rotation of the crankshaft so that the operation of the fuel system begins.
When the driver turns the ignition key and the car does not start, he has to look for the reason why the starter does not work. Although the operation of this unit is necessary only in the first seconds of starting the car, it cannot be done without it. Initial diagnostics can be performed without the use of instruments by assessing the performance of the starter on the battery. But it is possible to fully analyze the operation of the VAZ-2110 starter only if you have special measuring instruments. Once a breakdown is detected, you can think about further repair actions.

Diagnostics

The main load during starter operation falls on the relay. When a VAZ-2110 cannot start, they say that the starter does not turn or click, meaning the functionality of the solenoid relay, which in normal condition should make clicks. Such problems often appear in the following situations:

1. The rotor “mass” is in contact with the positive charge of the stator.
2. The roller or bushing on the electric motor has jammed and stopped rotating.
3. A short circuit has occurred between the stator and rotor windings.

Without removing the housing from the starter, these causes cannot be found and eliminated. The click that every driver often hears is created by the mobility of the core between the windings.

The first of them retracts the core for fixation, and the second must hold it in a certain position. When the voltage on the holding winding is insufficient, the core returns to its original position. Every click heard by the driver is an unsuccessful attempt to fix the core. In this situation, the retractor relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, and the car remains in place.

In addition to the traction relay, the cause may be hidden in burnt contacts; it is easy to detect by the unpleasant smell in the car interior. This also sometimes occurs due to a discharged battery. For each case, the solution to the problem is selected individually.

Timing belt broke

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?
The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.

Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.

New timing belt VAZ 2110

Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.

The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.

In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.

Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN

In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.

The starter clicks but does not turn on a VAZ 2110: what to do?

If your starter is faulty, then it is impossible to start the car, so urgent repair of this unit or its replacement is necessary. In this case, it is often quite problematic to deliver it to the nearest service station, so it is best to learn how to do the repairs yourself. Owners of the VAZ-2110 should learn how to restore performance on their own, this will reduce the cost of car maintenance.

Why doesn't the starter turn over?

Depending on what caused the starter to fail, it is necessary to take the next steps - repair or replace the unit. In addition, in some cases, you do not need to repair the starting device itself, but manipulate other components. In most cases, you can get by with repairs, but experienced car enthusiasts recommend immediately replacing the unit so that there are no more problems with it.

1. Most VAZ-2110s do not have a standard injector, but many car enthusiasts install this unit themselves. It helps reduce fuel consumption, helps start the engine in cold weather without warming up and increases power. The injector fails, and along with it the starter, due to low-quality fuel. Another reason may be failure to follow the connection diagram, but then you will discover a malfunction immediately after installing the injector. Otherwise, you need to flush the injector to remove any suspended matter that is carried into it by the fuel.
2. If the car starts, but after a short stop the engine cannot be restarted, then the problem lies in the overrunning clutch. At the moment of failure, you may hear clicking sounds from under the hood and notice that the car radio begins to turn on by itself. In this case, you need to cool the power unit before restarting or not make short stops. You will also need to replace the overrunning clutch with its geared counterpart. Be sure to check the conductors that come from this node. Sometimes, to restore the functionality of the coupling, it is enough to replace the wires that visually look damaged.
3. The retractor part of the starter especially often fails. When such a breakdown occurs, the dashboard lights first light up and then go out. Before replacing the solenoid relay, you must close the starter and turn off the alarm. If the listed components are in working order, then you will simply have to replace the relay.
4. Clicking sounds in the starter and failure to start the engine are often caused by damaged contacts. In this case, first inspect the battery, clean the terminals if oxide appears on them. Sometimes on a VAZ-2110 it is enough to tap the starter relay to get rid of the problem. Be sure to take an assistant with you who will start the engine while you tap the relay. If with such a rough approach it was possible to start the engine, then it is worth replacing the relay completely. Repair will be impractical.

General reasons why the VAZ 2109 starter does not turn

1. There is only one click, and then silence.
2. You hear several clicks in succession.
3. There are no clicks or other signs of life.

• The power bolts on the retractor relay - they were burnt. Because of this, a voltage of less than the required 12 volts reaches it.
• The fork pushing out the Bendix – it could have broken or been somehow deformed. Because of this, the Bendix does not fully reach the flywheel, the cores only partially enter the coil, and the contacts open.
• In the Bendix - the teeth on it were worn out. Therefore, there is no voltage from the solenoid relay at the starter.
• Armature brushes or bushings - they are worn out.
• Winding short circuit.

• The battery is dead.
• Its terminals - they have become sour or weakened.
• Holding winding - it poorly fixes the core, which is retracted by the retracting winding.

• Short circuit of the winding - in this case you should smell a burning smell and see smoke.
• The ring located in the starter reducer - it has collapsed.
• The key is to try to replace it.

VAZ 2110 starter does not turn, clicks: causes of malfunction

All cars use a starter to spin the crankshaft when starting the engine. The power of this device allows the crankshaft to overcome compression in the cylinders and frictional forces. If the starter does not turn, then the engine cannot start, as a result, the car stands still. For a motorist, the worst situation occurs when, when turning the key, he hears clicking sounds in the power plant or silence.

By the “silence” of the engine it is impossible to determine what exactly is not working. It’s good if it’s a starter, since repairing or replacing it won’t be as expensive as repairing a VAZ 2110 engine. There can be many problems with this element; this article contains the main faults and ways to solve them. If you want to repair or replace it yourself, then this will require a connection diagram, since the starter is an electrical device.

How to quickly close the starter with a screwdriver or other means

What to do if the screen on your phone is cracked. What to do if your laptop screen is broken

Many motorists have to deal with problems related to the vehicle starter at least once in their lives. The starter stubbornly refuses to work as before, although it itself is not damaged (the solenoid relay becomes the problem). We will look at what to do in this case and how to revive the starter in our article. There is Murphy’s law, known to all people on earth, as it is also popularly called the law of meanness. The car breaks down at the most inopportune moment, when you urgently need to go somewhere, and time is running out. In this case, there is nothing left to do but close the starter contacts in order to revive this important element of the car.

Safety block, wires, terminal blocks

The so-called black box of the motorist, in which fuses and relays are located, quite rightly comes into question in such situations. A short circuit or simply stagnation of contacts may occur in the block. Experienced motorists recommend not hitting the block too hard, this really helps.

If that doesn’t help, find the terminal blocks with the power wires and clean them thoroughly from oxides. Then carefully solder everything.

You can also test the ignition switch and clean the chips whose wires go to the starter. It is better to replace the nuts on the terminals with brass ones to make contact better.

Dismantling

There should be no problems with the dismantling process. The main thing here is to remove the starter, since the required relay is held on it. Therefore, dismantling is carried out as an assembly.

1. Turn on the handbrake, disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal from it.
2. A wire with a large cross-section goes from the battery to the contact of the relay. It can be turned off by unscrewing it using a 13 key.
3. Remove the thin winding power wire from the solenoid relay.
4. Using the same 13mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts holding the starter to the clutch block.
5. You can remove the device through the bottom or top. If you chose the top, then you need to slightly rotate the starter around its axis and remove it.
6. The lower output is more difficult, since here you need to remove the crankcase protection. But if parallel work is carried out that requires similar manipulations, problems will not arise.

Starter and retractor

It was said above that the first thing to check is the solenoid relay. However, it is no less important to test the starter itself, especially if the above checks did not yield anything. The best remedy is to install a known working starter and check how everything works.

Thus, it becomes clear why the starter starts every other time. The reason for this is either the contacts, the fuses, or the starter itself.

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The wiring diagram for hatchbacks 2112 is a unique thing in itself. In order for voltage to appear on the solenoid relay, the following parts must be in good working order: the ignition switch, the ECU unit and two more relays - the main and additional ones. Some cars do not have an additional relay, which can be considered good luck. But, if when you turn the key on a VAZ-2112 the starter does not turn, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. A broken immobilizer code can also cause problems. The last malfunction can be cured by replacing the ECU or disabling the immobilizer. Well, let's look at something simpler.

Example in the video: the immobilizer was damaged and the starter stopped working.

Dismantling

There should be no problems with the dismantling process. The main thing here is to remove the starter, since the required relay is held on it. Therefore, dismantling is carried out as an assembly.

1. Turn on the handbrake, disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal from it.
2. A wire with a large cross-section goes from the battery to the contact of the relay. It can be turned off by unscrewing it using a 13 key.
3. Remove the thin winding power wire from the solenoid relay.
4. Using the same 13mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts holding the starter to the clutch block.
5. You can remove the device through the bottom or top. If you chose the top, then you need to slightly rotate the starter around its axis and remove it.
6. The lower output is more difficult, since here you need to remove the crankcase protection. But if parallel work is carried out that requires similar manipulations, problems will not arise.

All features of the standard scheme

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with additional starter relay

Please note: relay K2 is not “unloading” at all. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery.

The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Scheme without additional relay

There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

The starter doesn't turn, what happens?

We know that there are two variants of the scheme. If “option 2” is implemented, voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the lock. But the ignition switch in the “Tens” is short-lived, since 30-40 Amperes are transmitted through it (the current of the solenoid relay). This is true for both the sedan and the 2112 hatchback, and the starter may not turn only because the lock is broken. Draw your conclusions!

All of the above also applies to “diagram 1” - look at it carefully.

The main relay is located in the extension block. It is located under the stove on the right. An additional relay is located in the main unit (see photo). However, it may be missing.

If “option 2” is implemented, check only the lock. And if there is an additional relay, it is not recommended to install a jumper instead. Marked in the photo:

• Additional relay (white arrow);
• Main relay (element “6”).

How to charge the battery in a VAZ-2109

If the starter malfunction is due to lack of battery charge, start charging the device. To properly charge the battery, carry out the procedure in a ventilated room. It is not necessary to remove the unit from the car; the process can take place directly in the VAZ-2109. When charging the battery, follow these requirements:

1. Disconnect all electrical cables.
2. Immediately before charging, carefully clean the terminals from adhering dirt and dust, paying special attention to oxidized areas.
3. It is advisable to completely discharge the battery before charging - to do this, turn on all electrically powered devices.
4. Observe the movements of the ammeter needle; it should approach the zero mark.
5. Monitor the temperature of the electrolyte - it will increase during charging. For example, the temperature of the electrolyte has increased to 40 degrees, then the current should be halved. If within 2 hours the density of the electrolyte and the battery voltage in the VAZ-2109 remain unchanged, it means that the battery is fully charged.

Typically, 10-12 hours are enough to charge the battery. Please note that in the summer the electrolyte in the VAZ-2109 heats up at an accelerated pace, so the car owner’s task is to regularly check the density and level of the material.

Is the problem caused by the alarm?

A blocking relay can be installed in the starter circuit when installing an alarm system. And many alarms need to meet certain conditions in order to remove the blocking. The simplest thing: the on-board voltage must be greater than 11 Volts.

Alarm with blocking relay

Conclusion: the starter may not operate when cold if the battery is discharged and the car has an alarm system. So, we remove the battery, charge it and install it back.

No contact

The starter starts with difficulty, before clicking. At first you are only slightly alarmed, but the situation repeats itself again and again: first it clicks, and only then the engine turns.

Have you checked your contacts lately? You need to start with the battery, maybe you are wrong to blame the starter, and the reason is oxidation of the terminals. Have you cleaned them and the starter clicks again? You need to check how your VAZ has ground contact with the body, and then the contacts of the starter itself, because they are also prone to oxidation.

Another test method: ask someone to turn the ignition key, while you yourself knock on the relay, using only a hard object. If it starts, it means that the closing contacts (nickels) are stuck, and it is easier to change the relay than to disassemble and repair it.

Final check before replacing the starter

We turn the key to position II, and nothing happens... In this case, open the hood and remove the air filter by unscrewing the screw on the body and loosening the clamp on the pipe. The starter is located under the filter housing. In the photo we see the following: someone disconnected the solenoid relay cord.

What we found under the filter

Using a needle probe, we check that when you turn the key, “+12” appears. Then, after checking, we wrap the cord with electrical tape.

Sometimes voltage seems to be supplied to the starter, but the solenoid relay is activated “every time”. Well, try cleaning the terminal - both in the connector and on the starter itself.

• The copper is polished to a shine;
• The wire (see photo) is supplied with “plus”;
• The starter doesn't even click.

The first thing you need to check is the battery contacts. We remove the terminals (key “10”) and look at what is under them. There is no point in measuring the voltage with a probe - it will show “12 Volts”.

Solenoid relay current – ​​40 Amperes. The presence of a resistance of 0.1 Ohm results in a voltage drop of 4 Volts. So consider... And the starter motor consumes 200 Amperes during operation.

We are trying to make a friend without his atrium

TIP - before closing the starter, it is advisable to inspect it and make a diagnosis.

Initially, it would be good to try to find out the reasons for the failure of the starter - what if you are lucky and the problems associated with its failure can be eliminated yourself.

The most common breakdowns are the following:

• Starter relay failure.
• The solenoid relay does not operate fully.
• Severe wear on the teeth of the Bendix gear, namely, the gear rotates, but does not engage with the teeth of the engine flywheel ring.
• The stator winding in the starter burned out.

So, let’s start the “heart” of the car.

Method 1, or how to start a car from a push, or “from a pusher”?

Everything is quite simple, but at the same time very reliable. Its essence is that the driver needs to find at least a couple of people, let them be, for example, neighbors in a garage cooperative who sympathize with him. And they don’t need to be of strong build, the main thing here is the number of participants: the more, the better. The entire team (company) rests their hands on the trunk, rear pillars, etc., and begins to push the car, accelerating it. The driver, in turn, sitting behind the wheel, already with the ignition on and, better yet, with third gear engaged, as well as with the clutch depressed, after waiting for the car to accelerate, the clutch is already released. After this, the engine “sneezes” and starts. The higher the acceleration speed, the faster the engine will start.

With this method, it is important to remember that after starting the engine, the car will begin to accelerate and you must immediately depress the clutch and turn off the gear, but, of course, do not turn off the engine!

In addition, do not forget to press the brake so as not to hit the car pulling you in the rear and put your car on the handbrake, and after that you can go and unhook the cable.

Method three, or we start the engine by simply closing the starter.

In addition to the above options, the engine can be started without “violent” methods. Just need to have at least a little idea of ​​how to close the starter directly?

Often, drivers close the starter using everything that is at hand in the car. This could be a screwdriver, a spatula, a wrench, etc.

TIP - a screwdriver will be effective if the starter relay is faulty.

This is easily recognized by the characteristic clicks coming from the engine compartment when starting the engine. This sound tells the driver: “Hey, friend, the relay is on, but the Bendix gear is not able to turn the engine crankshaft.” There is only one way out - you bridge the starter, and with this action you apply voltage to the winding.

In this case, you will need a large screwdriver, but you can use any open-end wrench. Any of these items must close the terminals of the solenoid relay and that’s it. But, do not forget, before closing the starter directly, you must:

• The ignition key must be placed in the appropriate position.
• The gear lever must be in neutral.
• The car must be put on the handbrake.

With this method, a screwdriver (wrench) plays the role of a solenoid relay and the engine of your car must start.

What to buy?

2110-3708010, -03, 04 – 9 teeth, 2 holes;

On the right is the BOSCH starter, on the left is PROMO-ISKRA

The choice depends on the type of gearbox. And nothing else.

Chemistry

There is no need to clean copper with WD-40 - after that everything will only get worse. Special equipment needed:

• Ammonia;
• ASIDOL (Lenbytkhim LLC) - excellent, by the way, also polishes glass;
• Molykote S-1002;
• Kontakt 60 or 100 (acid) and WL (wash);
• CRAMOLIN ContaClean (acid).

CRAMOLIN requires a remover. It's easier to take an eraser and ammonia.

Special cases

• Charge the battery.
• Clean and compress the contacts on the battery and starter.

• check the battery - close the contacts with a wire, a spark should appear that will melt it;
• pass the plus from the battery directly to the solenoid relay.

In the morning the starter turned, after 15 minutes I warmed up the car, then started it, but it didn’t move, the starter closed just a spark and silence, what should I do? I installed a new relay

If the devices go out when you start them, then look at the wiring near the battery, if not, then look at the retractor, try to tap it well, if it’s just stuck, then when it helps. And charge the battery well.

VAZ 2110 injector, started it on autostart, worked for 10 minutes and stalled. Now I can’t start, the starter doesn’t turn, can you tell me what’s the reason?

When you start it, the starter only makes a click, but if you connect it directly, it just turns.

Exal everything was normal and suddenly the car stalled, the panel went dark, then after 10 seconds everything turned on again, released the clutch, started. Everything is fine, I arrived, installed it, then started it, turned the key - the starter doesn’t turn, but turns straight.

The car was working normally, I came to put it in the garage, start it, but there was only a click and no movement, there was no current on the positive wire. What reasons could there be?

There may be no mass from the engine to the passenger compartment, the pigtail has broken

The starter stopped turning, everything else works. Start from the pusher, what could happen?

If it turns straight, there may be a problem with the mounting block or ignition switch. Check the voltage on the retractor, although it may be there, but the current strength is not enough to operate the relay.

The starter doesn't turn. You close the bolts - it turns, and starts with half a turn. He doesn’t want to use the key, the relay clicks once and there’s silence. What could be the matter?

Look, this thing is about the retractor :)

VAZ 2109 injector, this is the problem, started it half a turn, drove 30 km and the car stalled, all the devices went out, checked the wires on the generator, on the battery, but it didn’t help , a day later I started it at idle, it works, but when you give it gas it starts to burn! It worked for a little bit and stalled and all the devices went out again, no signs of life, tell me what could be the reason?

I started the car (2109i), drove for 1-2 km, and heard the sound of a tick-tick-tick. etc. almost at the same frequency, the revs were all right, after 500m I stopped, opened the hood (I didn’t turn off the car), there was a sound, then I turned off the car, tried to start it - no noise Lo, one click, the instrument panel lights up, no trills from the starter side, one click and silence, the towbar did not start (it was in 3rd gear, released the clutch - silence). The battery is normal, I cleaned the terminals, nothing, changed the battery - nothing. The idle speed sensor began to crackle every time I turned the key. I connected the starter directly to the battery - silence, changed the ignition relay - silence. The car has an immobilizer installed - it works now differently than before - When you turn the key so that the dashboard lights up, it should flash - it requires a key - now it just doesn’t flash, you take it out the key or in the “off” position the immobilizer diode lights up steadily. I blame him for now, maybe he blocked everything for me. There are no other explanations yet.

Why is it needed, its price, how much will the auto service charge for replacement, what malfunctions can arise, what the danger is, how to fix it, etc.

The door on the six closes with noise, and for this you need to make an effort? This article will tell you how you can get rid of the problem. This article talks about silent locks on the BAZ 2106. You will find out how much they cost and how to install them.

Where is it located (depending on the year of manufacture); when should it be changed and how to do it? And also get advice that will protect you from making a serious mistake.

The injector can also fail

In fact, we have sorted out almost all starter malfunctions associated with the operation of the VAZ 2110 carburetor engine. There are also injection engines, which are fashionable to install on cars today. Yes, they are more environmentally friendly, reduce fuel consumption, increase power performance, and the engine does not require warming up in winter.

But the injector is unlikely to “rejoice” at insufficiently high-quality gasoline; its repair is more expensive, since it operates under the control of a microprocessor. And in our operating conditions, this can also be the reason why the starter does not work well. Perhaps the injector requires cleaning (and this should be done regularly, since low-quality gasoline contributes to the deposition of resins and impurities).

We looked at the main faults of the VAZ 2110 starter, but not the only possible ones. If you monitor the operation of all components and devices on the car and respond in a timely manner to even minor failures, then your starter will properly turn the engine, the car will start, and you will travel for pleasure.

Price issue

Many owners are interested in how much this device costs and which starter is best to choose for the VAZ 2110. A standard unit from AvtoVAZ will cost about 5,000 rubles. Imported analogues are also suitable for the VAZ 2110. For example, you can take the BOSCH model, which costs about 10 thousand rubles.

There are also budget freelance models on the automotive market; they can be purchased for 3 thousand rubles. Whatever the starter, it should come with a warranty. Of course, the imported version works better, but the standard device has an excellent price-quality ratio.

Unit repair

According to experts, the service life of the starter is up to 6 years. If this unit has been in regular use for several years and has stopped working, then it should be carefully checked. Regardless of the cause of the breakdown, the first thing that needs to be done is to conduct a visual inspection to identify visible problems.

You should carefully inspect the contacts, since often the starter stops working precisely because of them. An unstable charge can also cause the starter to fail to turn, so you need to try starting the car several times.

But even if the car starts, you should not assume that the breakdown resolved itself. Sooner or later the car will stop starting and the breakdown will need to be solved in a radical way. Simply replacing the starter may not always solve the problem.

To remove a part for subsequent disassembly you need:

1. Disconnect the terminals and remove the battery.
2. Remove the protective shield under the engine.
3. Unscrew all nuts that secure the starter wires.
4. Remove the bolts that connect the starter to the crankcase.
5. Pull out the starter.
6. Unscrew the nuts and remove the relay from the cover.
7. Unscrew the bolts, remove the covers, and then remove the rotor.

Replacing bushings

To replace the bushings, you should increase the gap formed between the shaft and the support. The cause is often a misalignment that causes the rotor to touch the plate on the stator. The defect is solved by replacing the part.

1. You need to knock out the front support and remove the rear bushing. This can be done with a special puller or by drilling.
2. New parts must be installed using soft mandrels. Under no circumstances should you warp the products or use excessive force.
3. Before installing the bushing, it is recommended to immerse it in engine oil for several minutes to saturate the porous material.

Replacing brushes

These elements supply voltage to the rotor, or rather its winding.

Instructions for replacing brushes:

1. Remove the cover.
2. Unscrew the 4 screws that secure the brushes.
3. Replace the elements with new ones.
4. Clear the cavity from recycling.

Relay repair

This unit is necessary for the gear to move along the rotor. The element is located on the body of the unit.

First, the control relay is checked. The screw securing the part should be tightened thoroughly to check for oxide on the wire and plates.

To test the relay you need to close the drive directly. The unit must be replaced with a new one if the rotor rotates.

If the unit is working properly, the resistance on the coils is 75 - 55 Ohms. If it does not meet these indicators, then they need to be changed, since they cannot be repaired.

Assembly and installation

To assemble the unit, you must perform the same steps, only in reverse order. Correctly install the cotter pins and corkscrew rings that are provided in the design of some elements. Check the node for functionality.