Replacing the timing belt of VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115 with your own hands

How to correctly and accurately set the timing marks of a VAZ 2114 with an eight-valve engine will be discussed in this article. In fact, the engines on the 14th Lada model are installed the same as on the eights, nines, and tens. There are minor differences. Therefore, this guide will also be useful to owners of these models. Let's look at the most important questions that a motorist asks himself.

Causes of toothed belt wear on VAZ 8 valve engines

1. Wear of the timing belt on the front side is the main cause of a worn pump, but sometimes it can also be the tension roller stud and, in very rare cases, the camshaft sprocket. To eliminate this problem, replace the worn part.
2. Wear on the rear side is much less common. The main reason is the bolt on the oil pump. Over time, the belt tension weakens a little and, vibrating, it begins to reach this bolt. It’s very easy to fix this problem; we replace the Torx sprocket bolt with a regular 10mm socket, its head is smaller and the timing belt is no longer missing. The photo shows wear from the belt.

Diagnostics

Diagnostics must be carried out every 20,000 km of the vehicle. To do this, remove the protective cover and inspect the belt. The belt should not have chips, tears or cracks. Also, it should not have unraveling threads, etc. After inspecting the belt, it is necessary to inspect the rollers and listen to them with the engine running for noise.

Old cracked timing belt

It is necessary to inspect the alignment of the belt relative to the camshaft pulley, crankshaft, pump and rollers.

Install a new belt and tension it

Work order

1. We put on the belt, starting with the crankshaft gear.

2.Having passed the belt through the fluid pump gear and tension roller, we put it on the timing shaft gear.

3. To tension the belt, a special key is usually used to rotate the tension roller. If you do not have such a tool, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws, screws or bolts. We insert them into the holes in the roller body (2 pieces), and by passing a screwdriver between them, rotate the roller counterclockwise, tensioning the belt. Periodically check the belt tension.

4. The belt tension, without using a special tool called a strain gauge tester, can be checked by rotating it around its vertical axis. To do this, grasp its surface with two fingers (thumb and forefinger) at the point between the timing camshaft sprocket and the fluid pump gear, and rotate the belt around its vertical axis. If its plane rotates more than 90 degrees, tighten it further. The tension can be considered optimal when the belt rotates 80-90 degrees. But do not overdo it: too much tension will wear out both the belt and the pump bearing.

5.If the timing belt tension is normal, tighten the nut securing the tensioner pulley (13 wrench). We pull out the screws (screws, bolts) from the roller body.

6. Throwing a 19mm wrench onto the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, turn the shaft 2 turns. Check to see if the marks have gone astray. If everything is normal, we continue installation. If the marks are lost, you will have to remove the belt and repeat everything again.

7. On the crankshaft, unscrew the generator drive pulley bolt again (19mm wrench). Install the previously removed pulley onto the crankshaft. Fix the flywheel with a screwdriver and tighten the bolt.

8. We put on the generator belt and tension it.

9. We check the results of the work done. We start the engine and listen to its operation. If the engine runs normally, then you have done everything correctly.

10.Put the protective cover of the timing drive in place, tighten the 3 bolts securing it (10mm wrench).

11. Bend the engine protection and use the same wrench to tighten the 2 bolts securing it to the body.

12.Mount the right front wheel.

13. We lower the car, do not forget to securely tighten the bolts securing it.

This, in principle, is the entire algorithm for replacing the timing belt. As you can see, it is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Of course, it is impossible to foresee all the nuances that may arise during the replacement process, but the information provided should be sufficient to cope with this task. Moreover, in the event of an error, the engine will not be damaged in any way.

If you still have questions or need more detailed information, watch a video about how the process of replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2115 car takes place

A broken timing belt while on the road can cause a lot of inconvenience. On a VAZ-2115, this breakdown can lead to bending of the valves, which can lead to more expensive repairs. An unpleasant situation can also arise if a breakdown occurs on the road. Below we will look at the causes of this malfunction and provide instructions for eliminating it.

Which timing belt to choose

To make it easier for you to find the answer to your questions about which belt to choose or which belt is suitable, we have prepared a table for selecting timing belts for different brands and models of cars:

Timing belt options for VAZ

• Timing belt VAZ-2110, VAZ-2112
• Priora timing belt
• Granta timing belt
• Timing belt VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109
• Timing belt VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107

If you can’t decide where to buy a timing belt in Volgograd, Volzhsky or another city in the region, contact us, you can’t go wrong.

Pay special attention to how to set the timing marks

. We suggest taking a little more time to watch the video of replacing the timing belt on a VAZ with a 16-valve engine.

Replacement frequency

Natural wear, improper operation or other reasons lead to failure of the timing belt and the need to replace it. At the same time, there is no need to take the situation to the extreme: it is enough to carry out regular diagnostics and visual assessment of the part. Such a check will help to avoid a break at the wrong moment.

Abrasions indicate obvious wear on the timing belt.

The frequency of replacing the timing belt depends on the specific brand of car and is indicated in the vehicle’s operating manual. Despite the standards established by automakers, many experts advise changing the spare part every 50 thousand kilometers.

When buying a used car, you will have to check the condition of the timing belt yourself - a visual inspection of it for wear is enough. Clear signs of wear are abrasions or cracks on the surface of the belt. However, the presence of such defects does not mean that the belt will immediately fail, since inside it there is a base consisting of metal rods. Thanks to them, the part can withstand shock loads and maintain its working condition throughout its entire service life.

A cracking timing belt is another clear sign of wear.

Some cars are equipped with timing belts with reinforced metal cord, which affects their service life, increasing it by an average of 30%. Modern car models are equipped with belts made of rubber and metal, which have a limited shelf life.

Such parts cannot be repaired; if they fail, they are simply replaced. The decision to replace the belt is made not only if it breaks, but also if it sag, stretches or reduces the tightness of the fit, which negatively affects the synchronous operation of the valves. As a result, this can lead to malfunctions in the functioning of the entire car, the main symptom of which is engine malfunction.

Visible traces of belt stretching, as well as abrasion along with cracks, indicate that it has worn out

Almost always, the water pump or water pump is replaced along with the timing belt. On most cars, this device copes with its duties perfectly until the car dies, however, in some situations it needs to be changed ahead of schedule. For this reason, experts advise changing the pump at the same time as the timing belt.

The water pump is a part that is replaced along with the belt

Timing belt breaks: how to set marks

The timing belt plays an important role in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism (GRM) of a car, namely: it serves to transmit the moment of force from the crankshaft to the camshaft, as a result of which fuel and air are distributed in the engine cylinders. If the timing belt is faulty or worse, broken, this leads to various engine malfunctions. The most serious consequence is the result of a timing belt rupture when the engine valves bend. Then, to bring the engine back to normal, a major overhaul is required.

To avoid this, if the timing belt slips or breaks, it needs to be changed immediately, and the most important point here is to set the marks correctly, since when replacing the belt, the marks often get lost. If the timing belt marks, when replacing it, are not set correctly, then the gas distribution mechanism, and accordingly, the camshaft will also not function correctly.

In detail: Read and see about replacement timing, signs of timing belt wear, and replacement here.

Tools you will need to replace the belt: a jack, a socket wrench, small screws or drills, a socket wrench, spanners, and a screwdriver.

How to set timing belt marks before replacing it?

Before removing the old belt, you need to set the engine to the TDC position (the so-called top dead center). This will help save time and not waste it on tuning the engine after installing a new part.

Labeling is possible in one of the three available ways. Choose which one you like best:

1. Align the o on the flywheel with the tooth located in the window on the top of the gearbox.
2. Align the notch on the pulley with the arrow on the timing belt housing. As a result, the notch should be vertical and the arrow should point down.
3. This method is not safe; it is better to prefer the first two. Remove one spark plug and insert a long metal object in its place, pressing it against the piston. Then, while turning the engine, find the point where the piston is as high as possible. The piston must be left in this position to replace the timing belt.

Balancing

Of course, the element (risk) mark, set according to the mind, will become effective only in the case of a perfectly smooth flywheel. If there is an imbalance of the element, then balancing will have to be done. The list of tasks for the balancer will also include finding the radius of the flywheel.

Unfortunately, a balancing stand is not available in every city. On such a machine it is easier to adjust the crank shaft and flywheel.

Balancing is done either on a special mandrel or on the shaft itself (not removed). The main effect of balancing is relief. Some metal is removed from the flywheel to adjust its correct weight. Layers can only be removed from the edges; the center of the part must remain intact so that the strength characteristics of the part are not reduced.

Important point. Before you begin balancing the flywheel, you need to perfectly balance the crank shaft.

To better understand the balancing process, imagine a flywheel with a radius of 135 mm. The presence of “parasitic” mass in such an element is about 5 grams. Because of these seemingly insignificant grams, the very vibrations that have such a negative effect on engine performance occur.

Excess weight is removed from the flywheels by drilling. The layers are removed in several passes until the correct rotation is adjusted.

Keep the flywheel clean. If it becomes possible to remove a part, then take the time to carefully inspect it for defects. Regularly clean the flywheel from dirt so that it can be clearly visible in the future.

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Latest comments:

• Igor: I don’t have a fitting, the throttle is electronic, what should I do?
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How often to change the timing belt and pulley?

There is no clear answer here. The fact is that all car mechanisms constantly wear out and are subjected to excessive loads.

Therefore, you can pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturer only if the car is new - up to 5-7 years. In this case, replacement is carried out every 55-60 thousand

km. If the car is old, then reduce it by 15 thousand km. this figure is bold. The fact is that only engines with a volume of 1.5 liters will survive the break calmly and without consequences. But on eights, for example, they installed 1.3 engines, in which the valves bend.

Very often the timing belt on the VAZ 2114 and similar models wears out. This happens due to severe wear of the liquid pump. Its resource is no more than 90 thousand km. And then only if it is of high quality. What if you come across a defect or an obvious fake? Then it can break down even after half an hour of driving. When the pump wears out, the roller eats rubber from the outside. And the more wear on the pump, the more visible the damage to the belt. So, the conclusion is this: change the timing kit (roller and belt) every 40-45 thousand km, install a new pump every second.

Preparatory work

To replace the VAZ 2114 timing belt with your own hands, you will need a lift, an inspection hole in the garage. When there is neither one nor the other, any flat area will do.

The car is placed at the work site, the handbrake cable is tightened, and the gear shift lever is placed in the neutral position. Wheel chocks must be installed under the rear wheels. Using a wheel wrench, tear off the wheel bolts on the wheel in the front of the car on the right side, lift the vehicle with a car manual lift, place a reliable stop under the body and dismantle the wheel. Now you can begin the operation of replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 8 valve.

Installation process

The timing belt itself is a rubber product closed with teeth inward, which synchronizes the torque between the camshaft and crankshaft. Ignoring its wear will not lead to anything good, because in the best case, your engine will stall while driving, and in the worst case, the entire wheelbase will jam, which can lead to the most unpredictable incidents on the road.

The replacement and debugging itself is carried out in two stages, in the first stage the main repair and debugging work is carried out, and the second stage carries the function of monitoring the work done.

First stage

1. The assistant gets into the car and puts 5th gear in the gearbox, and at this time you remove the front belt protection.
2. Insert the ratchet into the place allocated for it and begin to turn the crankshaft, you need to do this until you see that the mark located on the camshaft has not moved to remove several teeth from the control antenna of the rear cover. (this action is necessary to reduce the degree of belt tension).
3. We dismantle the drive pulley on the crankshaft and return the mounting bolt to its place.
4. The assistant switches the gearbox to “neutral”.
5. Again, we begin to carefully turn the crankshaft until the mark on the VAZ 2114 flywheel is in the central position.

Coincidence of the mark on the flywheel with the slot in the bar

1. We check that the installation mark of the rear cover matches the mark located on the camshaft pulley; if they match, then you can unscrew the roller nut, then remove the belt itself.
2. We install a new belt - we start with the roller, then we put it on the pump pulley and lastly on the crankshaft pulley.
3. We adjust the tension by turning the adjusting roller counterclockwise.
4. Carefully turn the crankshaft again so that the marks are in their previous position (they will 100% go astray when putting on a new belt and adjusting the tension).

Mark on the crankshaft pulley

Second stage (control-final)

1. Before checking the timing marks on the VAZ 2114, you need to fix the pulley on the generator and tension the belt with a roller to the maximum.
2. Now we check all the matches, if nothing is wrong anywhere, then we install the protection back and clean the workplace.

Looking under the hood of your car, with knowledge of this information, you will understand that there is nothing difficult in this procedure, but its success is quite dependent on the skill of the performer. Therefore, if something doesn’t work out the first time, just repeat the operation, you may even need to do it twice. Don’t be discouraged, because after the difficult first time it will only take you a few minutes, like a seasoned professional.

GO TO REPLACEMENT

When replacing, the tension roller must also be changed (in addition, it is recommended to replace the cooling pump every second belt replacement).

Operating procedure:

• Stop the car with the handbrake, then place chocks under the rear wheels.
• Raise the front right side with a jack and unscrew the wheel.
• Remove the wheel and protective mudguard
• Using the “10” key, unscrew and remove the timing case

Removing the timing cover

• To remove the generator pulley bolt (you can lock the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver or pry bar through the inspection window on the gearbox housing)
• Remove the alternator belt, then the pulley
• Unscrew and remove the timing belt protective cover
• Align the engine according to the marks (one is located on the camshaft, and the second is on the flywheel)

Camshaft gear mark

Crankshaft mark in the box hatch

• Loosen the tension roller, then remove the belt

Release the tensioner roller

Attention: When the belt is removed or loosened, it is strictly forbidden to turn the crankshaft or camshaft to avoid damage to parts of the gas distribution system.

• After checking the condition of the gears for wear, the pump for play or leakage, then, making sure that there is no oil leakage, you can begin installing a new belt drive
• We install a new tensioner roller and start a new belt drive (you should be careful, sometimes there is an arrow in the direction of rotation on the belt drive)
• Once again, after checking that the marks match (see Timing belt marks and replacement according to them), we put on the belt drive - first by the lower gear (crankshaft)
• Then we continue to put on counterclockwise - the camshaft gear and tensioner roller
• In this case, the free play is on the side of the tensioner roller
• We tension the belt, while following the marks (the marks located on the crankshaft and camshaft should match perfectly when fully tensioned)
• When tensioning, the roller must be rotated in a counterclockwise direction.
• Rotate the engine several times, then check that the marks match

Then the belt tension is checked, as a rule, in the absence of a tool for checking, it is checked as follows:

• From the consolidated (right) side, photo below, it should twist to an angle of 90 degrees, with a little force - about 2 kilograms
• That is, we can confidently say that, before reaching 90 degrees, the resistance is practically not felt, and when twisting it more than 90 degrees, the required effort increases

Checking the tension

• Align and install the alternator drive pulley
• Install and tension the alternator belt
• We put the protective cover in its place
• Let's start the engine
• After all the procedures, the engine should start like clockwork.
• Replacing the timing belt on VAZ 2115 was successfully completed
• If suddenly it starts with difficulty, or works unstably and stalls, then your timing marks probably do not match or have shifted
• When you hear extraneous sounds when the engine is running (such as howling, crackling, or knocking on the casing, and others), then it’s likely that your belt drive is overtightened or undertightened

How to change it yourself?

You can replace the belt on an 8-valve VAZ 2114 with an injector engine yourself or by ordering the appropriate service at a service station. During the shift process, there are nuances that must be taken into account when performing the task. If you make mistakes and do not change the strap correctly, this can lead to rapid wear and breakage. Below are instructions for replacing the belt in a VAZ 2114 8 valve.

Tools

If you change the belt yourself, prepare the following:

• a set of open-end wrenches, you will need tools for 13 and 17;
• long flat blade screwdriver;
• 10mm ring wrench, you can use a ratchet head;
• key for installing the tension roller;
• wheel wrench;
• jack.

User Pro Remont shared a video that describes in detail the procedure for replacing the timing belt pulley and timing belt in a VAZ 2114 car.

Algorithm of actions

How to change a belt correctly:

1. Drive the car into a garage with a pit. The surface on which work is performed must be level. Switch the gear selector to neutral position.
2. Loosen the bolts on the front right wheel. Place this part of the car on a jack so that the wheel can be rotated.
3. Open the hood of the car. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the three screws that secure the plastic strap protector.
4. Using a 13mm wrench, you need to loosen the bolt that secures the tension roller. Remove the device.
5. You can see a mark on the camshaft gear; it is made in the form of a rectangular protrusion on the edge. When performing work, it is necessary that this mark coincides with the protrusion located on the fastening of the strap casing. If these marks do not match, you need to turn the wheel until they match.
6. Then find the rubberized plug installed on the top of the clutch housing; it is located to the right of the power unit’s BC. The part is carefully pryed off with a screwdriver and removed from the seat. Under the plug you can see the flywheel crown; there is a mark on this device. It should be opposite the triangular protrusion located on the left. If the marks do not match, then take a 17mm wrench and loosen the tensioner. Using a pulley removal wrench, turn the device counterclockwise to loosen the timing belt.
7. When the upper part of the belt is removed from the gear assembly, take a 17mm wrench and turn the crankshaft until the flywheel marks are opposite each other. The flywheel itself must be secured in this position; to secure it, use a screwdriver and install it between the teeth. If you have an assistant, ask him to hold the tool to prevent it from turning.
8. Now you can remove the right wheel. Unscrew the screws that secure the arch protection and dismantle it.
9. Using a 17 mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator set pulley. When unscrewing, make sure that the flywheel does not turn.
10. Dismantle the generator pulley and remove it from its seat.
11. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft disc.
12. Using a 17mm wrench, completely unscrew the tensioner pulley lock and remove it from its seat. If you loosen the fastening, the belt can be removed.
13. Install the new product onto the crankshaft disc. When installing, make sure that the marks are not broken. Install the generator set drive pulley by first placing a strap on it.
14. Place the product on the gear of the mechanism. Install the tension roller.
15. The strap is being installed. During installation, the tension roller must be turned with a special tool purchased in advance at the store. If you don't have one, you can use two self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Self-tapping screws are installed in the grooves, and a screwdriver secures them. Turning is done counterclockwise. Tension the belt using the tension roller and tighten the screw that secures the roller.
16. It is necessary to set marks if they are lost during the work process. The installation procedure for all components is performed in reverse order.

Photo gallery

Photos of belt replacement are shown below.

Remove the screws securing the timing belt guard.

The mark on the camshaft gear must coincide with the mark on the housing mount

Loosen the strap tension roller by turning it counterclockwise

Remove the belt from the pulleys and install a new product

Unscrew the nut securing the generator shaft

Put on the new belt and tighten the roller

Checking the set ignition

To check the ignition on an 8-valve engine, an injector, you should prepare:

1. Multimeter.
2. Set of keys and screwdrivers.
3. Pliers (necessarily with insulated handles).

Attention! Due to the lack of special equipment, the described method can only test the operation of the circuits. Diagnostics of the microprocessor part will not be available.

The process is:

• When the ignition is turned off, check how tightly the high voltage wires are seated and what contact is in the module.
• Remove the connector from the module, connect a multimeter (monitoring mode should be low AC) to pins C and B, make sure there is voltage. Check the coil (2nd and 4th contacts).

Checking the presence of power on the ignition module

• Check the functionality of high-voltage wires. Install a working spark plug in each cap in turn, attach one end to the block and crank the engine with the starter. The presence of a spark signals that everything is normal. Its absence on each wire means the module is faulty.

Checking high voltage wires

If you managed to set the ignition correctly on the VAZ model and this was confirmed by the test, but problems are still observed, you need to check the power system.

Timing belt on a VAZ 2115 car

The belt drive on the VAZ 2115 is identical in size to the VAZ 2110 - 2114. Technical characteristics of the drive: length 1306 x number of teeth 116 x width 9.5 mm.

We recommend: How to drain the coolant and flush the engine cooling system on a VAZ 2114

*check prices with an authorized dealer at the time of purchasing parts.

Before purchasing components, check the compatibility of the part with your technical device. Check the article numbers with the data specified in the operating instructions.

When replacing parts, do not forget to place marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Many car enthusiasts neglect the rule, as a result of which the engine does not start, operates unstably, and the ignition timing shifts.

Which manufacturer is better: domestic or foreign? Russian analogues are not inferior in quality to imported ones. Whether it’s worth overpaying for “delivery” - decide individually, but you need to listen to the opinion of experts.

Causes of timing belt wear on VAZ 2115

• Duration of vehicle operation without intermediate prevention and diagnostics;
• Installation of non-original parts, poor workmanship;
• Mismatch in length, width, number of teeth;
• Aggressive driving style, speed limits;
• High, low temperature conditions, climatic features of the region where the technical product is used.

All the steps to replacing the timing belt “from start to finish”

Before replacing, you need to make sure that: neutral gear is engaged, the car is stopped, the minus terminal is removed from the battery (key “10”). The plastic cover is removed from engine 11183 and the part is carefully pulled up. Then remove the drive casing:

1. Unscrew the three fastening screws and remove the plastic part (see photo).

Timing casing on motor 2111 and 11183

Using the “17” key, rotate the crankshaft and see when the marks on the upper pulley and on the engine coincide. Then, opening the plug, we check the alignment of the marks in the clutch housing. Immediately fix the flywheel with a screwdriver.

Marks on the pulley and flywheel

An alternative way to “break” the timing belt

It is impossible to replace the timing belt on a VAZ-2114 without removing the alternator belt. loosen the upper and lower fastening screws, mark the position of the adjusting screw and unscrew it by 80%.

How to move the generator to the engine

Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the screw securing the generator drive pulley. During installation, you will need to ensure that the marks match (see photo). The screw tightening torque is 99-110 N*m.

Generator pulley on engine

Loosen the nut on the roller, turn it and remove the belt. Now you can replace the roller itself.

The final step for dismantling

When installing a new belt, the upper pulley is once again aligned according to the marks (see above). The locking screwdriver is removed after installation.

New timing belt installed

How to adjust tension?

If everything was done correctly, it means that the belt can be turned half a turn with two fingers, but no more (as in the photo).

Correct tension setting

A fork wrench is used to make adjustments. If you don't have such a wrench, circlip pliers will do. Hold the roller with a wrench and tighten the nut.

The holes for the key should be located under the nut from below. This is the correct position of the roller.

Recommendations

• Before installing a new belt, wipe all pulleys, that is, the teeth on them, with white spirit. And the adjusting screw can be treated with a rust solvent.
• There is no point in protecting a new belt with silicone lubricant. By the way, according to the regulations provided for the VAZ-2114, the timing belt must be replaced every 60,000 km or if necessary. And the need can even be caused by oil products getting on the rubber.

Apparently, an assistant must fix the flywheel: the clutch housing and timing drive are located on two different sides.

2108-1006120 – roller

Attention. parts 2108-1006120 and 2112-1006120 are not interchangeable!

2108-1006129 – pin for the roller;

2108-1006040-10 – belt;

2108-1006149 – seal under the casing;

2108-1006146 – plastic casing.

Analogs of belts

• GATES 5521 or 5521XS (heavy duty), recommended
• FINWHALE BD-111
• BOSCH 1 987 949 559
• LEMFORDER 58-111-19 or 14458 01
• CONTITECH ST-527
• GOOD YEAR G1474 (semicircular tooth) or G1485 (trapezoid tooth)
• DAYCO 111x190/1

• HANSE HZ 011 008
• BRTI 21080-1006040-10
• TOYOTA 13568-19035
• RENAULT 7701462019
• OPEL 636359
• ROVER GTB1124
• AYWIPARTS AW2110560
• PROCODIS FRANCE 05CD27
• FAI 40305
• GK 791170
• MAGNETI MARELLI 340018181434
• MAPCO 43080
• HEPU 29-0165
• OPTIMAL R-1113
• SCT G124
• WILMINK WG1151273
• VEYANCE G1474
• OPTIBELT ZRK 1123 (3 pcs.)
• TRISCAN 8645 5521 (2 pcs.) or 8645 5124 (2 pcs.)
• FLENNOR 4410 (2 pcs.) or F904410 (belt + roller)
• LYNXauto 111CL19 (1 piece) or PK-1236 (belt + roller)

Analogues of the video

• GATES T42042 or T42042A (2 pcs.)
• MAPCO 23081
• FLENNOR FS99018
• LUK 531 0671 20
• OPTIMAL 0N1917

• BREDA LORETT TDI3009
• TORQUE 830900AE2
• ESPRA 2108-1006120/ES0108
• INA 531075010
• CORAM C747
• VPZ-23 830900AE1