Where are the side members located on the VAZ 2110

Front spar burst

If the car owner has never encountered such a factor as replacing the front side member of a VAZ 2110, you should either contact specialists or carefully study the method of removing it and installing a new one. Most often, a breakdown occurs at the attachment point of the stabilizer, which is responsible for lateral stability, and the place where the steering wheel is attached. Despite the amplifiers available in these places, the spars fail and require either repair or replacement. Replacing the front side member on a VAZ 2110 can be easily done with your own hands.

What is a spar - replacing the rear and front spar on a VAZ 2110

What is a spar?

A spar is a part of the body designed to strengthen the structure of a car. Suspension parts or beams are attached to the spar. The side members are located on the sides of the car, front and rear, and they bear the entire main body load of the car.

Initially, a spar was a name given to a reinforcing part of a car’s frame, since the frame was the supporting structure of the first cars. Gradually this part moved to the car body and became part of it.

Among the failures of the side members, it is necessary to note the appearance of cracks or corrosion of the metal. If small cracks appear, the spar can be repaired using a welding machine. However, if a strong split in the structure is noticed, then the spar must be replaced and this work should be entrusted, best of all, to professionals.

If cracks on the side members or traces of corrosion are not detected in a timely manner, it is recommended to take urgent measures to eliminate this malfunction, since these problems can lead to the fact that the car may simply fall apart on the road and then it will become very difficult not to get into an accident.

Front spar - DIY replacement

Among the reasons for the failure of the front spar it is worth noting:

Poor quality of road surface
Loose suspension or steering mounts
Driving at high speed on poor-quality road surfaces

Replacement procedure

Remove the door using a power screwdriver. Remove the mats and soundproofing material.
Remove the fender and secure the front part of the body from possible falls and movements. The front axle beam is also subject to fixation.
Pull the springs and unscrew the 3 bolts from the upper ball joint. Then remove the upper arm. Note. It may happen that the bolts on which the spar is secured are jammed and do not give way. In this case, you are allowed to get rid of them in any way, including an angle grinder.
Unscrew the brace, which is designed to secure the spar and beam. Then cut off the engine mudguard with a grinder.
Divide the side member into two parts and separate it from the body by sawing it behind the beam.
Clean the mounting points from dust, dirt and traces of corrosion and install a new spar in this place. All bolts that stick out from it must be tightened thoroughly.
After this, the entire lower part and the engine mudguard are subject to welding.
Reassemble all front suspension components in reverse order and do not forget to bleed the brakes.
Reinstall the fender and door.

Replacing a front side member with your own hands is not a pleasant task and requires special skills and experience. However, it saves money very well on car services.

How to change the rear spar

Replacement of the rear side member of a VAZ 2110 is carried out in case of visible damage, as well as after an impact in the rear of the car. Of course, the old spar can be straightened or welded, however, after the rapid aging of the metal, it loses its load-bearing capabilities and driving becomes difficult. In addition, rubber wear increases due to body deformation and displacement of suspension parts.

Replacement procedure:

Raise the rear of the car using jacks and place it on strong supports. Consider the location of the work site and do not place supports exactly there.
Carry out work to correct the proportions of the body. To do this, hydraulic struts are installed under the bottom and support the spacer from the ceiling. Then use pressure to correct the bent body parts.
Remove the rear fenders.
Now you need to remove the rear suspension elements. To do this, you can place the car on its side and place tires under the part being laid. To prevent the vehicle from tipping over, install reliable supports. After completing dismantling, clean the surface of the part being replaced from dirt and debris.
The old spar is removed as follows: holes are drilled along the lines of the weld seam (the diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the welding point), the places that could not be drilled with a drill are cut off with a grinder, and all the rest are cut off with a chisel. After dismantling the spar, straighten the body defects using a mechanic's hammer and clean the area of the future spar with a grinding wheel.
Try on the new part against the body, trim off the excess. Drill it in 3 places at the site of the future weld. Then secure it in place and tack it with 3 points in the pre-drilled holes. After this, weld metal plates on the outside and inside of the seams to strengthen the structure. After this, completely weld the new spar to the body.
Clean the welding areas with a grinding wheel and treat the seams with epoxy resin.
All metal parts must be coated with two layers of primer.
Reassemble the rear suspension in the reverse order and install the car on the wheels.

This completes the replacement of the side members. If you decide to carry out such work yourself, be sure to study the welding manual, because an incorrectly welded spar may sooner or later come off and the structure will lose its reinforcing properties. Thus, the car may fall apart while driving, and this, at a minimum, is not safe.

Video - Restoring a VAZ body

Equipment and tools

Replacing rear side members on a VAZ 2110

Repair work to replace the spar must be carried out in an equipped and spacious garage. It is necessary to prepare equipment and tools:

welding machine or gas welding;
rear side members complete with rear suspension;
two jacks, hydraulic racks;
drill;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
plumber's hammer;
disc on a grinder for stripping metal where the old part was cut.

Before starting repairs, you must remove the battery and drain all remaining gasoline from the gas tank. If possible, cover the gas tank with fireproof material. To prevent spontaneous combustion from remaining gasoline vapors in the gas tank. Since the repair will be carried out using a power tool that produces a spark.

Do-it-yourself replacement of the front spar of a VAZ 2110

Front spar burst

Spars are an important component of the body

Note. In a neglected state, the part cannot be repaired and requires replacement. If damage is noticed in time, it can be repaired by welding into the inside of the spar.

Replacing the front side members of a VAZ 2110

When actively using the car or traveling on roads with harsh driving conditions, cracks appear in the side members, which are detected only during diagnostics of the chassis (see Repairing the chassis on your own). If you do not notice them for a long time or do not take the necessary actions, the part is destroyed and, subsequently, cannot be repaired. The causes of failure are usually:

Poor quality road surface
Driving over uneven surfaces at high speed
Loosening fasteners

Front spar VAZ 2110

Due to the weakening of the rigidity of the steering mechanism fastening, a crack appears near the bottom bolt, followed by play in the body and, as a result, the wheels of the car become misaligned.

Replacing the front spar

Beam for front side members of VAZ 2110

To fully replace the side members, the following tools and spare parts are required. Without them, you can get yourself into trouble in the form of the inability to dismantle the old part and install a new one:

Wing;
Bolts for fastening the steering gearbox, if it is on the left side, or for fastening the pendulum, if it is on the right.

Note. Problems may arise when unscrewing the bolts. To overcome them, do not neglect any of the recommended tools.

Bolts, washers and nuts of the steering gear, three pieces each;
Bolts responsible for fastening the beam;
Bolts for attaching the upper arm;

VAZ 2110 front side members

Bracket with number 2121-2904242;
Nuts required to fasten the beam;
The spar itself and the mudguard;
Ball joint fasteners (set).

VAZ 2110 front spar

You can purchase the spar and mudguard as a set or individually for each part. When trying to save money, they often decide to purchase separately and cook it themselves. This results in wasted time during installation and welding.

Note. The package of these elements separately does not include all the necessary parts and they will have to be purchased additionally.

Left front side member of VAZ 2110

To clearly understand further actions, you need to examine the engine shield. This is that part of the car, or rather its body, that separates the engine compartment from the interior. It is to the engine shield that the engine splash guard must be attached. If it is in a condition that does not evoke positive emotions, it will not be possible to weld the mudguard, which will significantly affect the rigidity of the body.

Front right side member VAZ 2110

Small corrosions that do not have a significant effect on the condition of the engine shield are not scary. To bring it into proper condition, you can use patches. They are made of metal, which you will also have on hand. In order to unscrew the upper ball joint, which simply needs to be dismantled, it is advisable to purchase fasteners for this ball joint. If the bolts are in poor condition, a lot of time will be lost. Tools that should be:

Grinder (angle grinder)
Impact screwdriver
Regular screwdriver
Chisel
Welding
Ties (needed to compress the spring)

Note. It is important to maintain consistency throughout the entire work process.

The process of replacing the spar begins with removing the door (see Repairing VAZ doors: how to do it correctly) using an impact screwdriver and removing it until the process is completed. Next you need:

Raise the mats
Remove noise and thermal insulation from the work area
In the area of the engine splash guard and its connection to the shield, clear the surfaces of flammable products and those that are prone to smoldering
Remove the wing
Fix the front part of the VAZ using adjustable stands
Fix the front axle beam well to avoid displacement

Note. To protect the drive boot, a small stand is installed under the front wheel beam. This way you can prevent it from falling at the moment when the upper ball is released from the lever. This prevents the brake disc from touching and damaging the brake flap.

Tighten the springs
Unscrew the 3 bolts from the upper ball joint
Remove the upper arm
If the bolts connecting the spar and the bridge beam are jammed, cut them off with a grinder or remove them in any other way.
Unscrew the brace that secures the spar and beam
Cut off the mudguard
Divide the spar into two parts
Separate from the body by first sawing behind the beam
Thoroughly clean the fastening points and install a new spar

Note. You will have to try hard to get the spar into place without moving the body and bridge.

It is necessary to carefully tighten the two bolts protruding from it on the new spar
Weld the bottom part
Weld the engine splash guard to the engine shield

The front spar of the VAZ 2110 burst

Unfortunately, it is not possible to bring in a new spar in its pure form. The reason is the welded front panel into which it must be inserted. To eliminate this discrepancy, you need to saw off the tip of the spar. Having installed the spar in place, the tip is inserted into the front panel, and then welded with a continuous seam, which restores the integrity of the part. So:

Reassembling the front suspension in reverse order

Note. If defects in the engine shield are detected, they are eliminated during the process.

The cavities are filled and coated with an anti-corrosion agent
Wing being mounted
The door is mounted
The brakes are being pumped

For those who have a desire to repair and transform a car with their own hands, the step-by-step instructions given above will be an excellent assistant in their work. The cost of parts is not high, and you can save a lot on repairs without resorting to expensive services. Photos will help you better understand the location of each detail, and the detailed video, which is located here, will be a clear example for anyone who has decided to act.

You can also find out about replacing the rear spar on our resource.

Body geometry

VAZ 2110 rear spar

A spar that has become unusable disrupts the proportions of the body. Repairs must begin with correcting the body parameters:

The car is lifted on a rack lift; if there is no such thing, lift the rear of the car with jacks.
Place it on reliable supports, taking into account the availability of work on replacing parts and straightening the body (see Repairing a VAZ body - from a car repairman’s textbook).

After completing work to correct the geometry of the body, the rear wings are removed.

Removing the spar

VAZ 2110 rear spar

Dismantling begins with the following:

One side is hung on the jack to relieve stress on the metal.

The rear suspension is removed to facilitate the work of cutting the spar.
Parts are cleaned of debris and dirt.

Rear spar VAZ 2110

Installation

Having dismantled the old spar, the new one is tried on. If necessary, you need to trim the part to length. Drill the new spar at the attachment point by welding in three places with a pitch of 3 mm. It is recommended to try on the spar very carefully so as not to spoil the part. So:

The finished part is secured in its original position using clamps, without violating the linear dimensions according to pre-applied marks.
Then carefully, using a semi-automatic welding machine, it is tacked in three places along the previously drilled holes.
Having installed the first spar, carry out the same work relative to the second.
Checking their installation along the longitudinal lines of the body, we study the manual on carrying out body welding work.
Additional metal plates are applied to the bottom and inside and welded to strengthen the structure.
After finishing the welding work, carefully use a grinder with a grinding disc to clean the welding areas.

Washed down the spar — Lada 2110, 1.6 l., 2005 on DRIVE2

Well, I haven’t written anything so useful for a long time and many people have probably lost interest. Well, I began to do something further with the car) when the right drive was heavily underestimated, it hit the side member, the knock is not pleasant, I’ll tell you, from -100 and those who use pneuma will understand me. I started drinking almost a week ago, namely on August 16, 2013. I thank my friend Rodriguez102 very much, namely Oleg and Anton and the whole family) I won’t write much, just the key points) They said if you go down and stop by, we’ll do it) in the end I got there, went down and everything is ok)

We started somewhere around 10-11 o'clock and finished at 18:00

The first problem was to remove the stand; there are elongated studs on the support and they broke off and did not unscrew. They cut it off, then the spruce armor was removed, because the ears bent and tightened the nuts, it was unfortunate, but we took it off) and then we did everything slowly and in between times and helped them with the housework myself) Well, let's start, we took the grinder, marked what needed to be cut and away we go)

Mode

Oleg in progress)

Then they took a 3-4 mm pipe, Oleg not only cut it, but also directly adjusted it in everything)

We adjusted everything to the pipe, and because... 3-component longe, it was decided to open one layer and boil it in all places where possible

Middle layer

Oleg cursed for such a low car, it was hard for him to cook)

In general, we welded everything we could and as best we could, it looks like this) in fact, very conscientiously, really) everything was done neatly without rushing) well, just like I did for myself)

Then they cleaned up the whole thing and went over it with Movil, now there is no knocking)

And yes, I took off one spacer, then another second) now the muzzle is lower, the front fender covers the tires by 2-3 cm, and the wings hurt terribly when turning inside out; I already solved the problem yesterday, I just rolled up the edge more tightly and clamped it, ph no, they had no time )

I thank Oleg and Anton and his entire family for implementing and helping to solve this problem) THANK YOU SO MUCH

I’m waiting for banal comments “Why are you doing this, you’re an idiot, you’re ruining the car” and in that spirit) and for those who finished reading, please like it, it’s not difficult for you, but it’s nice for me)

In what cases does the spar need to be changed?

The decision to repair or replace the spar is made based on the degree of damage. Most often, side members are damaged during an accident. In addition, the reason for partial or complete replacement may be corrosion, as well as the appearance of cracks during the operation of the car.

If the damage after the accident is smooth, without sharp corners, then the spar must be repaired; if the damage has sharp corners (pressures with an angle of less than 90 degrees) in a small area, cracks, tears or corrosion that are difficult to remove after pulling, then the spar needs to be partially or completely change. The metal structure of the spar with such damage changes, as do its characteristics.

Spars with significant damage, made of ultra-high strength steel (UHSS-Ultra High Strength Steel) most often need to be replaced, as they are very difficult or impossible to repair. Heating significantly weakens the strength of such steel.

Communities › Body Repair › Blog › Manufacturing the middle spar 2110 (repair insert)

The factory coating on the bottom dried out and began to crack and peel off here and there in layers with soil down to the metal, as a result, ferrous metal is crying all over the car, but since it is only 15 years old, we will repair it. Due to the above factors, the middle spars and much more rotted, first I changed the left side - I bought a piece of iron on the market (the price tag of 1700 is beautiful in cataphoresis and with a sticker) I was tired of cutting out the old metal, besides, it was a pity for it since in the area where the beam is attached and above the metal was in good condition, but everything below the beam to the threshold had holes. Proceeding to the right side, I cut out the problematic part.

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I brought it to work and started making the pattern.

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Marked, cut, bent on a sheet bending machine made of 1.5mm metal. Then it’s more interesting because the shape is tricky, I made an incision with a machine and bent the shelf to the side

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It’s good that at work there is a plasma cutter with which you can quickly make a patch))

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Further the task becomes more complicated: the vertical shelf must shrink and to do this we cut the metal from above and below, cut out a sector and hammer down the piece of iron with light blows of a 2 kg hammer

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Since everything is done by eye, you need to melt the cracks))

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It turns out, in my opinion, that the third grade is not a defect, but since our company has no competition, people cry but take it)) A little more than an hour was spent on work, last fitting at home

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The width turned out to be a little larger, reduce it by another 3 mm and, in principle, it will work. As a result, I saved on hardware and gained invaluable experience! I liked this job, now I’m making a threshold.

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And another photo of the threshold sampler))

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Good luck to all ! There is no money, but we are holding on! Thank you for appreciating my work!

About the origin of the term

The term means, translated from French, movement along a load-bearing structural element. It is the power unit of modern vehicles. In the 20s of the last century, Auburn created a spar frame with an X-variant cross member. Such spar frames included two spars located in parallel, as well as several cross members. Outwardly, they were similar to stairs, which is why they were often called staircases. Currently, domestic Gazelles have a ladder frame.

Planned strengthening of the body of the VAZ-2110 — Lada 2110, 1.6 l., 2015 on DRIVE2

Peace to you!

Nezhdanchik aims at fairly fast “races”, both in appearance and in content, so torsional rigidity of the body is a relevant concept for him. The planned “arrival” is an improvement in handling and, at the same time, an increase in passive safety (after all, there will be no safety cage inside)

In racing they say about stiffness that you can’t spoil porridge with oil, for example, you should look at the table

As you can see, the stiffness of the racing VAZ (with an asterisk) is almost 6.5 times higher than the usual ten.

We can’t reach this level, but we can do something in a garage)

Look, for standard cars, a whole series of spacers are usually produced, purchased and screwed into the designated places

Such spacers are also sold for the Ten, but not all of them and some of them have already been purchased.

This is a spacer for the front glasses

front panel reinforcement subframe

Amplifier for rear glasses, something similar to this

And then we include the ability to integrate non-detachable amplifiers into the body; simply weld them tightly during body repairs, because with the amount of work we do on the body, you can do anything)

Look what I have planned, maybe you can advise me to add something)

Rear side member reinforcement. The very ends. I'll put it here.

Rear arches. I will connect the 2nd cup of the shock absorber with the spar with metal

Rear suspension mounting points. I’ll reinforce the spar with 2nd metal, something like this

Plus I'll add an amplifier between them

Bottom. I’ll put profiled pipes under the sills, extend the flimsy side members to the entire bottom and connect the side members with the sill reinforcement

I will make amplifiers for the front glasses

And finally, on the roof. I will put 3-4 additional standard amplifiers on the roof

And on the corners of the roof I will weld gussets made of 2 mm metal

I think that's probably enough. What do you say, will it be enough so that the interior trim does not creak due to the play of the body?))))

Design Features

So, we figured out that the spar is a simple pipe with a rectangular cross-section. Depending on the engineers’ ideas, they:

are located in front and behind the car.
extend along the entire length of the housing structure.

Due to the fact that various forces are constantly pressed on the side members, they must withstand serious loads: this includes the weight of the engine, the weight of people in the car, as well as a host of other automotive parts.
Also, this part is constantly subject to shock load, which is transmitted from car wheels while driving. If you look at the photo of the inside of the car, you will see that the frame frame looks like a ladder frame, similar to the letter "P", including the rear one. Ladder frames are commonly used for SUVs, crossovers, and trucks. Passenger cars are most often equipped with a load-bearing body structure.

There is no need to draw, we need to repair

To approach and crawl up to the “dead” spar, you need to remove all obstacles from the car, namely, body parts located on the way to it. Remove all vehicle wiring and any electrical devices from the area being repaired. Did you find the spar? Now try to stretch it out, at the same time and if possible giving it its original shape. Naturally, you won’t achieve anything perfect yet. But. Secure the car with chains on the stand and use a grinder to cut off the parts of the spar that cannot be restored. After pulling and cutting, check how the car doors close. Then, using a gas torch, remove the old layer of sealant and primer by simply heating it. The geometric control points of the spar must be checked according to the repair table, and the notches of these points can be made with ordinary colored tape. Then pull the spar to the marks that coincide with those indicated in the table. To smooth out any rough spots, use a sander, and be sure to check the exact parallelism between the side members and the wheel arches. Use a straightening hammer to fix any damaged parts of the wheel arches. Then apply a new coat of sealant and primer and get ready to paint. After painting, you can reassemble the previously removed body parts in the reverse order, naturally, after the paint has dried.

Changing parameters

The spar, like other parts of the car, is subject to heavy loads and as a result, breakdowns or wear are possible. Since this is an important part of the vehicle, it becomes clear that in the event of a breakdown, literally everything stops working as intended.

For example, if the wing of a car is torn off, it continues to move, but if a spar breaks, it will no longer be able to drive. Then increased wear of the rubber occurs, the body begins to break, and the car itself is difficult to drive.

The procedure for carrying out repair work

All work is conventionally divided into 3 stages: preparation of the bottom, replacement of the entire element or re-welding of individual parts, reassembly of the dismantled parts.

Tools and materials for work

Work is carried out after changing into dry clothes suitable for welding work. Before starting, prepare tools (grinder, welding machine, drill) and consumables. You will need new soundproofing sheets, as well as:

mastic;
primer;
sandpaper;
protective enamel.

After disassembly, it will become clear whether the repair will include additional metal parts, or whether the entire bottom of the VAZ 2112 will need to be welded.

Safety precautions

Since the work involves welding, fire safety of the work must be ensured. To carry out proper repairs, you should turn off the power to the car and drain all the fuel from the tank. For convenience, the doors in the cabin are dismantled, having previously de-energized the windows. In order to preserve the geometry of the body, after removing the doors, the openings are strengthened by installing spacer elements.

Main types

Depending on the design features of the car, the following types of their location can be classified:

opposite each other in a horizontal position;
horizontal arrangement with a certain angle of inclination;
slightly curved in a vertical position;
curved and horizontal.

Trucks are characterized by a parallel type of arrangement of side members, which are in a horizontal position. Other types of arrangement are typical for cars and SUVs. The inclined type provides maximum turning radius of the wheels. Thanks to the vertically curved side members, a relatively lower floor height in the vehicle interior is ensured. Horizontally curved elements also affect the floor level, but in addition to this, passive safety is further increased in the event of an emergency with a side collision.

The cross members are responsible for the level of rigidity of the main parts of the car. They are located between the side members. There are three main types of crossbars:

Mostly metal materials are used for manufacturing. In large trucks, the side members and cross members are connected by riveting, and in passenger cars, these two components are simply welded. At the same time, special brackets are used to firmly connect the frame, body, main parts of the transmission and engine. They, in turn, come in many sizes and also have a high level of strength.

How to choose a part: average prices

To weld the bottom of a car at a car service center, the minimum price is 25,000 rubles. This applies to minor floor defects in all customer materials. A complete overhaul and update can cost up to half the cost of a car. Considering that the price of a VAZ is minimal, such repairs are not profitable for most drivers.

Many people prefer to carry out repairs and replacements on their own, buying a solid bottom. The repair kit is produced by AvtoVAZ, the element is suitable for models 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, 2171, 2172. The cost does not exceed 4,000 rubles. Cold-rolled steel 0.8 mm thick is used in production.

There are options on the market to buy bottom elements: panels, amplifiers, connectors and cross members. The cost of each element is from 900 rubles. Parts of the bottom are chosen instead of metal patches if local repairs are necessary without welding out the entire bottom.