How to check the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2107

Gaps in the upper hinges of VAZ 2101-2107

To independently diagnose the condition of ball joints, you will need a special device for measuring play and a torque wrench.

The diagnostic procedure looks like this:

Before checking the ball joint, you need to place the car on a level surface and raise the side on which the diagnosis is being carried out.
Loosen the bolts on the wheel in advance, and after lifting, unscrew them.
Remove the wheel and place it under the engine.
A wooden block must be installed under the lower ball joint. Its height should be 19 cm.
Lower the car onto the block. The surface on which it is installed must be hard. Work cannot be done on the ground.
Install the device bushing on the upper ball fastening nut, which is located closer to the brake disc protective casing.
Place the device on the sleeve and secure it with a bolt.
Move the tool to position the lever in a vertical position. Its lower edge should rest against the brake disc housing. After this, tighten the bolt.
Install the indicator in the base stand until it stops. The interference should be no more than 2-3 mm.
Attach the bracket to the wheel hub using two wheel bolts.
Install the torque wrench on the hex head.
Turn the key with a torque of 196 N*m (or 20 kgf/m) in one and the other direction.
Add up the readings that will appear on the indicator.

The sum of the readings should not be more than 0.8 mm. If it differs from this value, then the ball joint needs to be replaced. Driving with a broken one is not only uncomfortable, but also dangerous - at any moment your finger can be torn out of the clip. And if this happens at high speed, a fatal outcome cannot be avoided.

How to check ball joints on a VAZ 2107 for...

Self-check of ball joints

with your hands... you jack up the wheel and loosen it with one hand from below, the other from above... you will understand there... Elana

These are bearings. Ball by removing the load on them. Alexie

Find an old repair book (about 80 years old). Everything is clearly spelled out there. Alexi

Mount on a pit or overpass, on the backlash.Lea

then jack up any front wheel and rock in different directions, if there is a knocking noise, it means screw them or the tips of the Galchonok

and you need to hang the bottom one on something and shake the top. Alona

they don't knock, that means they're normal. shake the front of the car, swing the wheel along the axle, and to check the bottom, put a brick under the lever to hang the wheel and swing it too. Under

You put the jack up. Right and left - tips, up and down ball. Nothing should be loose. For tips jack for rocking chairVera

How do you mean “under the rocking chair”? Datian

it’s not difficult, the top one is usually checked together with the side member, that is, you take it out of the blue by the top of the wheel in the usual form, you don’t need to remove or unscrew anything, and you pull as hard as you can, if there is any suspicious sound, take it apart... and the bottom is there there is a grease hole (so there’s a hole in it, and the front end is already raised, a match goes in, how many mm, for the life of me I don’t remember) that’s where the working permits are and it’s time to change..., it’s simple))) Sayan

Jack it up, put a 17 cm piece of wood under the ball, it seems, lower it onto it and then swing it up and down by the wheel

as Anatoly said! balls are checked under load. you pull sharply on the top of the wheel and if there is any play, you take it apart. the top one means one hundred percent dead. and with the lower one you just ask someone to pull it and you can determine by touch whether there is any play! Irinara

Jack up higher, put something under the lever, lower the jack. This way you will unload the lower ball and put it in the working position. Swing by the bottom of the wheel or let someone swing and you watch. This way you can check both at once. The safest way is to disconnect the ball joints and check them with your hands. If it hangs even a little, change it. Aleko

You put a support on the jack, under the lower suspension arm, you can remove the wheel, lower it and swing it by the disk from bottom to top. It takes two people with the wheel, you swing it, he looks. Balloons can be heard along the highway. There is also a pendulum, along the direction of the car, on the right. He knocks too. When driving quietly, it can be heard on the right side of the cabin; you need to remove the cotter pin and tighten the castle nut by one slot. There is no need to pull hard. The steering will be heavy. If you have a new car, it's the swingarm. He needs a lift. Grisha

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Second diagnostic method

But such a tool for measuring backlash is not always at hand. It is much easier to complete all the work with a mounting blade. To do this, you will need an assistant who needs to be seated behind the wheel. The diagnostic procedure looks like this:

A partner must press the brake pedal to hold the hub. This will eliminate the possibility of bearing play influencing the diagnosis.
Raise the side of the car that needs to be diagnosed.
Rock the wheel sharply, holding it by the top.
You can use a mounting blade; to do this, you need to install it between the upper arm and the hub. Move the lever up and down, assessing the play between the support cage and the pin.

If you find play in the upper ball joint, be sure to replace the element.

Basic faults

The engine does not start. In this case, several options for eliminating the breakdown are possible. The first thing you need to check is the presence of fuel in the VAZ 2105 carburetor. If there is fuel, you should carefully examine the fuel pump. It may become clogged or completely defective.

If everything is fine with the pump, pay attention to the ignition system. If there are no problems with it, then the reason is a leak in the carburetor. The engine runs rough or begins to stall at idle

There may be several reasons for this problem. These include: incorrect adjustment of the idle speed in the engine, malfunctions in the carburetor, damaged drain pipe, worn gaskets, damaged pipeline hose, incorrectly set gaps, breakdown of the ignition system.

The VAZ 2105 engine cannot develop full power. The reasons are as follows: the carburetor throttle valve is not fully open, the air filter is clogged, the ignition system is faulty. You need to check all these points to fix the problem.

These are the main malfunctions of the VAZ 2105 engine. It also does not hurt for a car enthusiast to remember how the car should be operated correctly.

At first, you should not use the maximum speed limit of the car. The driver needs to get used to driving the VAZ 2105. If you choose the wrong speed of the car when driving, you risk damaging the front suspension elements and causing the rear axle beam to bend. Also, at maximum driving speed, rapid tire wear is possible, and increased body vibration will lead to instability of the car.

Diagnostics of the lower ball

And now about how to check the ball joint located on the lower arm on a VAZ. To do this you will need to perform several steps:

If there is dirt on the bottom of the ball joint, it is imperative to remove it.
Using a key set to “7”, you need to unscrew the plug, which is located on the bottom of the holder.
It is convenient to carry out diagnostics on an overpass or inspection pit. To do this, you need to install a caliper in the hole and measure the distance from the ball pin sphere to the bottom edge of the body.
If it is not possible to install a caliper depth gauge, you can use thin wire or even a match. Place it in the hole, then measure the distance with a ruler.
The maximum distance from the finger should be 11.8 mm. If less, then the ball joint can continue to be used. But if this value is greater, the hinge will need to be replaced.

Checking the ball joint boot

When checking the ball joint, you should always pay attention to the condition of the boot. This part is made of durable rubber, but during operation, even mechanically resistant parts can rupture as a result of aging of the material or due to increased mechanical loads. This part becomes especially vulnerable when there are significant temperature changes in the winter season. During seasonal maintenance, you must ensure the integrity of this part.

It is easy to determine the integrity of the ball joint boot by visual inspection. Minor damage may not be noticeable from a considerable distance, so the car should be placed over an inspection hole or raised on a lift. You should also use an additional light source if the lighting in the garage is insufficient.

Preparing for replacement

After you have checked the ball joints on the VAZ and found that they are damaged, be sure to replace them. During the preparation phase, you will need to complete the following steps:

Place a jack under the side of the car that is being repaired.
Place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Loosen the bolts on the wheels, then lift the side of the car. Remove the wheel and place it under the bottom of the engine.

That's it, the preparation is over. Now it is necessary to dismantle the old ball joints and install new ones.

About other manufacturers

As mentioned above, the production of high-quality ball joints requires serious costs. And this cannot but affect the final cost of the product. Therefore, there are only four large manufacturers of supports for the VAZ 2107, and all of them are listed above. Of course, there are smaller companies that offer car enthusiasts ball joints at almost half the price. But any sane person understands: if a ball joint costs half as much, it means that the manufacturer saved on something during its manufacture. Most often, savings are made either on ultrasonic analysis of rod blanks or on heat treatment. Neither the first nor the second bodes well for the buyer of the support.

Cheap ball joints have a very short service life

And if the car owner is of sound mind, then he will not react to a temptingly low price and save on a detail on which his life literally depends. It is for this reason that little-known manufacturers of cheap supports will not be considered in this article.

Here we should mention another unpleasant thing: fakes. Recently, ball joints from well-known brands have begun to appear on the shelves of car dealerships, costing suspiciously cheaply. Upon closer examination, the vast majority of them turn out to be fake, and often the fakes are made so well that only a specialist can recognize them. For an ordinary car enthusiast, the criterion for selecting supports is still the same: price. It should be approximately the same as indicated above. And if a ball joint from a well-known brand costs half as much, then buying such a part is categorically not recommended.

Replacing the upper supports

To remove the upper support you will need to perform the following manipulations:

Using a “22” wrench, you need to unscrew the nut that is located on the hinge pin.
Then you need to press out the hinge pin using a special puller consisting of two levers. One edge rests against the lower ball pin, the other against the upper one. You can do this job without a puller, but you will have to hit it very hard with a hammer. As a result, you can easily break the suspension arm.
After the ball pin comes out of its place, you need to use “13” keys to unscrew the nuts that secure the cage to the lever.

Checking the new support

Defective car parts are not uncommon, especially in cases where parts are purchased at the lowest possible cost. A visual inspection will help minimize possible time costs when a newly installed ball joint has to be replaced again due to a technical malfunction.

First of all, you should carefully inspect the ball boot. If even minor damage to the element is detected, the rubber part should be replaced, provided that the hinge is in good condition.

A defective spare part can be identified by the ball pin randomly deflecting when the part is turned over. There should also be no play when moving the moving part of the hinge.

Replacing the lower supports

After checking the ball 2107 and making sure that it is broken, you need to unscrew the bolt from the pin. But you won’t be able to unscrew it completely; first, make a few turns. Further actions:

Install the puller and remove the ball joint and hub knuckle pin. After this, you can completely unscrew the nut.
Using keys set to “13”, you need to unscrew the three nuts that secure the ball joint housing to the suspension arm.

Before installing new elements, it is necessary to fill a sufficient amount of lubricant under the boot. Be sure to check the integrity of the rubber boots.

Ball joints are the most short-lived parts of the AvtoVAZ classic suspension. Considering the state of domestic roads, the ball joint on a VAZ 2107 is the first part that has to be changed after a certain mileage of the car. Novice car enthusiasts have questions about how to replace ball joints and which ball joints are best to install on a VAZ 2107 .

The role of support in the suspension and the consequences of failure

The part is a ball pin with a thread at the end, enclosed inside a metal housing. So that it can rotate, a sleeve made of hard plastic (usually fluoroplastic) is installed between the ball and the body. The pin is screwed with a nut to the steering knuckle of the wheel hub, and the part itself is bolted to the suspension arm. To prevent dirt from getting inside the hinge, it is protected on the open side with a rubber or silicone boot.

Note: in some car models, the ball joints are integral with the levers and are also replaced together.

The task of the element is to provide a hinged attachment of the hub to the lever so that it can rotate . That is, the support bears the load from the weight of the car, impacts from the wheel and the impact of friction when turning. Now it becomes clear what the risk of malfunctioning this important part is. First of all, the plastic sleeve wears out, causing the ball to begin to dangle inside the body. If measures are not taken, then on a strong bump the ball pin will pop out of the body, and the wheel will come off along with the hub.

Despite the fact that after separation the ball hub is held on a stand or on a second lever, the wheel becomes uncontrollable. The consequences are unpredictable and depend on the speed of movement at the time of the breakdown. That is why it is important to monitor the condition of these elements and respond in a timely manner to extraneous sounds coming from the chassis. If the first signs of a malfunction of the ball joint appear, it is advisable to check it and clarify the diagnosis in order to replace it with a new one in time.

Design and purpose of ball joints

The design of the front suspension with ball joints replaced the previously popular pivot mechanism and is the most common. The task of these units is to ensure vertical movement and rotation of the wheel while driving. Ball joints are constantly subject to strong variable loads while the vehicle is moving, and their failure can lead to a serious accident. Therefore, special requirements are placed on the material and quality of manufacture of ball joints. The rapid wear of the balls during operation even forced designers to develop suspension options without this “delicate” unit. But, as mentioned above, most cars (and the entire VAZ line of cars) include ball joints in the front suspension design.

“Ball” (as they are called for short) are manufactured in two versions: cast-in-place designs and products with a metal-ceramic liner. The first type is used in the upper, the second - in the lower ball joints. This is due to the different loads to which the liners are exposed. In the lower nodes, compression and tension alternately occur, in the upper nodes only compression occurs.

Is it possible to drive with a broken ball joint?

Structurally, the ball joint is designed in such a way as to prevent the finger from slipping through the hole even with severe wear. Complete destruction of the part is almost impossible or can only occur when excessive force is applied to the suspension parts or during long-term operation of the car with a worn part.

The danger of operating a machine with severe wear on the ball joint is that the vehicle pulls to the side during braking. There will also be significant difficulties when cornering. Negative changes in vehicle handling pose the risk of a traffic accident.

If the ball joints start knocking, then you need to understand that operating the car in such a technical condition can be dangerous. The presence of even a slight creaking of the suspension when passing speed bumps and during a turn should alert the driver. The simplest “classic” check of this part can be done independently, stopping on the side of the road, so identifying the malfunction should not be put off for a long time, otherwise very undesirable consequences may occur.

When is it time to change ball joints?

The reliability of the ball joints is extremely important for safety, so their condition must be carefully monitored and replaced at the first sign of malfunction, which manifests itself in the following:

knocking noise while driving at low speed;
creaking when turning the steering wheel, coming from the wheel mounting area;
unstable course retention;
uneven tire wear;

You can replace ball joints yourself, without involving car service mechanics.

Symptoms and causes of element wear

While driving, a worn ball joint manifests itself as follows:

overcoming small bumps at medium or high speed, you will hear a dull knocking sound coming from the front suspension;
with average wear, a knock may be heard on the steering wheel;
In heavily worn bearings, the ball begins to wedge, causing a creaking sound when turning the steering wheel.

If you find one of these signs, you should contact a service station for diagnostics or check the functionality of the parts yourself and without a lift. The service life of ball joints on cars made in Russia, China and Korea is in the range of 20-50 thousand km. Higher quality parts of European and Japanese foreign cars can last up to 150 thousand kilometers. It is necessary to focus on these intervals when troubleshooting .

Contrary to popular belief, the behavior of a car with worn joints when driving on a flat road changes little. The deviation from a straight line and the lateral abrasion of the rubber are so small that an inexperienced driver will not notice the changes, unless the ball joint becomes completely loose. A clear sign is a distinct knocking sound.

Checking the technical condition of the front suspension parts on a Niva Chevrolet

We install the car on a lift or inspection ditch

The suspension must be thoroughly washed before inspection.

Inspecting the rubber-metal hinges of the lower arms of the front suspension

Hinges need to be replaced if:

— ruptures and one-sided swelling of rubber;

- wear of rubber at the ends of the hinge;

— displacement of the outer joint bushing relative to the inner one is more than 2.5 mm;

- if the width of the rubber belt between the ends of the outer bushing and the thrust washer of the hinge does not fall within the limits of 3.0-7.5 mm.

In the same way we evaluate the condition of the upper arms.

We inspect the shock absorbers and springs of the front and rear suspensions.

The springs must not be damaged. Tearing, cracking and severe deformation of rubber bushings, cushions and compression buffers of shock absorbers are unacceptable.

Liquid leakage from shock absorbers is not allowed. A slight “fogging” of the shock absorber in its upper part, while maintaining the characteristics, is not a malfunction.

Hanging the front wheels one by one (while the car must be securely fixed on the support stand), we check the condition of the front wheel hub bearings

The wheel should rotate evenly by hand, without jamming or knocking.

Holding the wheel in a vertical plane, we alternately sharply pull the upper part of the wheel toward ourselves, and the lower part away from us, and vice versa.

We make sure there is no play (knock). If there is a knocking sound, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal.

If the knocking noise disappears, it means the wheel bearing is faulty, and if the knocking noise remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out.

If there is excessive play, adjust the clearance in the bearings. We check the condition of the protective covers of the upper and lower ball joints of the front suspension.

We replace ball joints with torn or cracked covers.

You can preliminary assess the condition of the upper ball joint by strongly shaking the upper part of the wheel in a plane perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the car (in this case, it is necessary for an assistant to press the brake pedal all the way).

The presence of play (knock) in the suspension is a reason for a more detailed check of the upper ball joint.

To do this, hang out and remove the wheel

Place a wooden block under the lower ball joint and lower the car onto it until the spring is fully compressed.

Using a long mounting blade, we alternately swing the upper arm of the front suspension down and up, creating a load, respectively, on pressing and pulling the ball joint pin out of the support housing.

At the same time, we monitor the movement of the ball joint housing relative to the steering knuckle

If there is play, then replace the ball joint

To check the condition of the lower ball joint, remove the front wheel

Having placed a support under the lower arm (as close as possible to the ball joint), lower the car onto it until the spring is fully compressed

Using a long mounting spatula, alternately pump the upper front arm down and up

And we observe the movement of the support body relative to the steering knuckle

If play is detected, then change the lower ball joint.

First signs of breakdown

Exterior view of a car's ball joint

When the car is moving, a slight crunching or light tapping noise is heard - this is the first sign of a malfunction. It is especially noticeable when cornering. Very often, too light a steering wheel or increased play is accompanied by a knocking sound. The main thing is not to confuse it with a broken CV joint, because when the steering wheel is turned all the way at the beginning of movement, they also emit an unpleasant crunch. If you believe the books, then ball joints last forever (provided that they always have lubrication and are operated under normal conditions). Probably, this mode of operation is lying on the counter in a store.

In fact, during operation, the integrity of the anther is compromised. The rubber from which it is made is constantly exposed to dirt and water. Over time, the surface of the boot dries out, it becomes covered with microcracks, which then turn into full-fledged holes. And then small particles fall inside the ball, gradually breaking the metal. As a result, you will hear unpleasant crunching and tapping sounds. In fact, nothing more is needed for the ball to fail; constant exposure to dirt and dust is enough. And the result of such a breakdown is an increase in backlash and the likelihood of jamming. In the latter case, you will not be able to turn the steering wheel, no matter how much force you apply to it.

The initial check of the ball can be carried out practically with bare hands.