Power steering for VAZ 2110 8 valves

Depending on the year of manufacture, the “ten” can be equipped with a hydraulic booster (power steering) or an electric booster (electric power steering). Of course, the second option is preferable, since it makes driving the car easier and more comfortable. If your power steering is worn out or you just want to replace it, then it is recommended to choose the power steering for the VAZ 2110 as an alternative.

This material contains two instructions:

Installation of power steering.
Installation of an electric power steering VAZ 2110 instead of a standard power steering.

Before installation, you need to understand the structure of these units, and also find out how they differ from each other.

Differences between EUR and power steering

These are completely different units. To understand the main differences, it is enough to study the hydraulic booster. Its main component is a pump driven by the crankshaft, it is integrated with other parts. The operating principle of the hydraulic booster is based on hydraulics.

As for the electric power steering, it is driven by an electric motor. Its design also includes an electronic control unit, a steering shaft with a torsion element and sensors. The EUR works according to a different scheme:

When the steering wheel rotates, the torsion shaft twists;
Special sensors record changes in the position of the shaft and send data to the electronic control unit;
After analyzing the information, the unit sends commands to the electric motor;
As a result, the unit creates the necessary force or facilitates turning the steering wheel.

Car enthusiasts often argue which option is preferable for the “ten”. In fact, power steering is an obsolete unit that is being actively removed from modern passenger cars. The electric booster works even when the engine is turned off and weighs less than the power steering. The main advantage over “hydraulics” is reliability - the electric unit requires virtually no maintenance. There is less load on the engine, and as a result, less fuel is also needed. The EUR is also good for our conditions because it functions well at low temperatures.

But the electric booster also has its drawbacks. Its design is more complex than that of “hydraulics”, hence the high price. Sometimes the electronic control unit sends incorrect commands, this was especially felt by the owners of the first generation Kalina. If you drive for a long time on a poor-quality road surface (or lack thereof), the EUR may turn off for several minutes due to overheating.

Varieties

All power steering can be divided into two types:

Electrical. The system is represented by an electric motor, a control mechanism and a mechanical transmission. The peculiarity of this type of device is the creation of additional force when turning the steering wheel using a special electric drive. Provides perfect handling at all speeds and during sharp turns. If a malfunction occurs in the control units, the electrical device may suddenly turn off.
Electrohydraulic. The hydraulic pump is started by an electric motor, which is powered by a generating device. In terms of fuel economy, the electro-hydraulic booster is more preferable. The spare part is efficient and informative.

You can pick up the spare part at the place of purchase:

At the car market.
In the auto parts store for VAZ cars.
At the transport dismantling point.
In the online store.
According to the advertisement.

Installation of EUR

Required Tools

Let's say you purchased an EUR kit - it could be from a VAZ 2110 or from another model, for example, from a Priora. Prepare the following tools:

Drill together with a metal drill.
Set of screwdrivers, grinder.
Long ruler.

All is ready? Let's move on to installation.

Step-by-step instruction

You need to remove the standard terminal from the block and place it in the block on the harness. We find the standard drive, which is attached to the block. A free terminal must be installed in its place. Now the wire can be placed between the fasteners.

Adjustment

After assembly, you will need to straighten the steering wheel if it is installed crooked. Separately install the sensor that came with the EUR. If the column casing is cracked, it is better to immediately replace it with a good one. There may be gaps between the front panel and the casing - they must be removed.

Installing power steering - step by step instructions

This instruction is intended for VAZ 2110 cars, which do not have power steering at all. Such models were produced a long time ago, but they can still be found on the road today. In this case, the car can be upgraded with your own hands.

You can install the power steering yourself; for this you will need a power steering kit - today it can be purchased for about 20 thousand. From the tools, prepare a set of keys and screwdrivers; you should also take care of the amplifier fluid in advance.

We dismantle the timing case and install the bracket on three bolts. There are already holes in the interior, so there is no need to drill new ones. Now we install the pin on which the roller will later be installed. There are no holes for it, so we make new ones. Let's put on a video.

Here you can see the fasteners that need to be removed. The photo below shows in detail what needs to be sawed off. After this, securely fix the pump on the bracket and cover it with a pillow. The assembled unit should be placed on the engine, or rather, in the place where the generator was mounted.

Bleeding the brakes of a VAZ 2112. How to do it correctly

In the list of diagnostic measures, bleeding the brakes of the VAZ 2112 is one of the first places. It’s good when car enthusiasts understand this and take it quite seriously. It’s not for nothing that they say: “Why do you need a gas pedal if the brakes don’t work?” Bleeding the VAZ 2112 brakes is primarily necessary to remove air layers from the communications and equipment of the brake system, which lead to malfunctions of the entire well-functioning automotive mechanism. The most critical consequence of the presence of air in the system is its complete failure, when when you press the brake pedal, it falls to the floor without effort and remains in that position. Why and when is bleeding performed? The process, which drivers call “bleeding,” is based on the purpose of removing from the cylinder and underwater hoses of the braking system the layers of air that have penetrated into it. One can object by pointing out that the system is hermetically sealed and only thanks to this technological feature it functions. However, under the influence of constant mechanical loads, as well as material fatigue, the tightness may be broken. Carrying out a daily visual inspection of the car before driving on the road in rare cases may reveal signs of hidden depressurization, which is a consequence of:

Loose fluid supply hoses;
Microcracks in tubes, fittings or in the cylinder.

Bleeding must be carried out as one of the stages of work when replacing any equipment included in the functionality of the system. With rare exceptions, when the pads are replaced, however, even such a simple process can also be completed by preventative blowing of the hoses. Stages of work To carry out this type of restoration work, a set of the following tools, materials and auxiliary equipment is required:

Capacity, preferably a clean bottle of at least 1.5 liters;
Rubber tube from a medical IV or from a blood transfusion set;
Clean rags;
Wrench for 8 and 10, open-end or “bleeder”, which has a special slot;
Steel brush for cleaning metal surfaces;
A can of WD-40 to remove traces of dirt and rust;
New fluid for the system.

Also, to carry out the work conveniently and quickly, you need an assistant who will bleed the brake pedal from the passenger compartment - from this manipulation the whole procedure got its name. At the first stage, air is removed from the discharge cylinder. To do this, the pedal builds up pressure and, alternately unscrewing the fittings on the cylinder, air bubbles are released from them. Prefaces these manipulations by adding fluid to the tank to the maximum possible level. Only after this do they begin to work with the wheel fittings. Bleeding the wheels on VAZ cars is carried out in the following sequence:

Rear right;
Front left;
Rear left;
Front right;
*The sequence of processing wheels on VAZ models is determined by their distance from the cylinder, and therefore by the length of the connecting hoses.

However, in the case of the VAZ 2112, this is not critical, since on this model the system is multi-circuit and the sequential wheels do not matter in this matter. The procedure is similar to that done with the central cylinder, only there is only one fitting on the wheel. Even if no repair work has been carried out on the system, the VAZ 2112 brakes should be bled either once every 3 years, or every 4,000-5,000 thousand kilometers. Bleeding is required if the liquid becomes dark, which indicates a loss of its performance characteristics. AutoFlit.ru

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Differences between EUR and power steering

These are completely different units. To understand the main differences, it’s enough to study the hydraulic booster. Its main component is a pump driven by the crankshaft, it is integrated into parts. The mechanism of operation of the hydraulic booster is based on hydraulics.

Read

As for the electric power steering, it is driven by an electric motor. It also includes an electrical control unit

, control shaft with torsion element and sensors. The EUR works according to a different scheme:

When the steering wheel rotates, the torsion shaft twists;
Special sensors record changes in the position of the shaft and send data to the electrical control unit;
After analyzing the information, the unit sends commands to the electric motor;
Ultimately, the unit makes the necessary force or simplifies the rotation of the control wheel.

Car owners often argue which option is better for the “ten”. In fact, power steering is an obsolete unit that is being intensively removed from modern passenger cars. The electric booster works even when the engine is turned off and weighs less than the power steering. The main advantage over “hydraulics” is reliability - the electronic unit practically does not require maintenance. The engine is subject to the least load, therefore, less fuel is also needed. The EUR is not bad according to our criteria, in addition to the fact that it works perfectly at subzero temperatures.

Characteristic

At the moment, almost all budget cars are equipped with such an amplifier. However, owners of old cars have a desire to retrofit their car with power steering. This is a very useful option. Even with a large diameter steering wheel, the effort required to control the car will be several times less. This is especially noticeable when parking in densely populated cities. The power steering itself is part of the car's steering system and runs on hydraulic fluid pumped by a pump. This also includes the steering column. The usual factory one does not fit here. There are many advantages of this system.

The first is the comfort of control, because you no longer need to turn the steering wheel as much as before. The second is reliability. The hydraulic booster practically does not fail. The third advantage is ease of maintenance. You will not have any difficulties when operating such a car. Even if the amplifier breaks, you can fix it with your own hands. Moreover, it is quite possible to get to the garage with such a breakdown. The only thing that will happen is that the ease of control will deteriorate. The steering wheel will become “heavy”. By the way, for the first time such an amplifier was installed on Gorky’s “Chaika”. GAZ-13 was the first car with power steering.

( 2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5 )

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Installing power steering - step by step instructions

Installation of power steering can be done by yourself

, for this you will need a power steering kit - today it can be purchased for about 20 thousand. From the tools, prepare a set of keys and screwdrivers; you should also take care of the amplifier fluid in advance.

Results

As you can see, the work is quite simple and does not require special knowledge and skills. The main thing is to remember the instructions for carrying out the work and use them in the required sequence. If you do this kind of work yourself once, then there will be no hassle with it in the future. If you neglect your car, it is fraught with consequences. The car will require constant care. To do this, he needs to periodically carry out technical inspections, on the basis of which he can make sure that certain components are in good working order.

Operating principle of EUR and power steering

Power steering VAZ 2110 is a system consisting of many elements. The power steering pump in this case is driven by the crankshaft - it pumps oil, as a result of which, through pressure, it allows rotation of the steering wheel.

The electric power steering is a modular design that is built into the steering column; the module itself consists of:

synchronous type electric motor;
torsion bar;
several sensors;
control module.

EUR device for VAZ car

The operating principle is as follows: the torsion bar is twisted, the sensor reads the torque, and the electric motor transmits a small force to the output shaft.

The feasibility of installing EUR

Installing an EUR on a VAZ 2110 is relevant if the car is equipped with wider wheels that differ from the standard ones by several sizes. And in any case, installing an electric power steering will allow you to achieve more comfortable control, since the steering wheel will respond even to minor touches. The car will become more “obedient” on the road, and the driver will not have to hold the steering wheel with both hands, although this is contrary to traffic regulations. Installing an electric booster will ensure safer driving (the author of the video is the sokur64 channel).

Pricing factors

The cost of power steering varies significantly at different points of sale. The explanation for this is that sellers take into account various factors when setting prices. For example, the cost of a given auto part depends on:

Varieties.
Qualities.
Originality.
Brenda.
Generations of cars.
States.
Places of purchase.
The need to order delivery and the price of such a service.
Reputation of the selling company.

Detailed guide to installing electric power steering on a “Ten”

The amplifier installation procedure is as follows:

First you need to take the purchased wires and remove the standard terminal from the connector, and then install it into the connector on the harness.
The terminal connected to the connector is mounted where the wire was connected to the standard block. This must be done so that you have the opportunity to pass a standard cable between the bundles. It is also necessary to take into account that the wire from the blocks carries 50 amperes; accordingly, it is necessary to install the same safety element.
The next step will be to remove the steering column trim, ignition switch, and all switches located under the steering wheel. At this stage, you need to do everything carefully, since the lining itself is fragile and can crack.
Then the screw securing the rail is unscrewed, after which it is removed. Next, you will need to compare the length of the old and new intermediate shafts, since adjustments will need to be made to the plates and the shaft itself. The further fitting procedure is carried out by turning - it is best to perform it on a machine, this will allow you to obtain the most accurate result. We recommend that you contact specialists for this task. As for the dimensions of the plate, they are adjusted by re-drilling some holes to a greater depth. In addition, you may also need to trim the corners of the plate a little with a grinder, after which you will need to install spacers between it and the car body.
Install the amplifier along with the rail and plate - a standard screw may not be suitable for fixing, so you will have to install a shorter bolt instead. In turn, this may lead to the need to install a limiter to prevent arbitrary rotation of the shaft.
Next, the central part of the switches is installed.
After this, two wires are laid from the vehicle interior to the battery; it is advisable to lay the wiring through the left fender. The expansion tank of the washer system is being dismantled. You need to find a long copper wire, with its help you will push the wiring. Then open the mounting block with the safety elements and find the wires that go into the engine compartment, you will need to push the wire through the same hole. Be careful not to damage the wiring. Once the wire comes out through the left fender, attach the amplifier wires to it and push them into the engine compartment.
Then the control panel is dismantled, having done this, you need to find the red connector. Next, the wiring from the amplifier is pushed into the space under the shield. It is necessary to disconnect the orange cable from the red connector; a block from the set of wires for the electric power steering is installed on it. This wire should be connected to the orange wiring of the installed system, and the remaining end with the terminal is mounted instead of the standard cable in the connector.
Similar actions are carried out with the gray wire; it is also installed in the red connector. The cables routed into the engine compartment must be connected as follows: the black wire is connected to the negative, the pink wire to the positive. Actually, at this point the installation procedure can be considered complete. Now you only need to reinstall the cover and steering wheel.

Lada 2111 › Logbook › Power steering for 2110 8 cells. Part 1

The topic is old and hackneyed, but I still want to share my experience.

I would like to immediately answer frequently asked questions: Why power steering? After all, the EUR is better/simpler/more reliable/doesn’t take power away from the engine

1. Because the power steering rack has 2.7 turns from lock to lock, and all other 2110/Priora/Kalina racks have 4.2 turns. The only exception is the viburnum sprat rack with 3.1 2. I like it when the steering becomes stronger at speed 3. IMHO the hydraulic rack dampens impacts on the wheels better and allows you not to feel a slip during acceleration. Again, these are just my feelings 4. In principle, I like the idea of a hydraulic booster better. This can be considered religious beliefs

How expensive?

Within 10-12 sput

How difficult and how long does it take to install?

1 full day, nothing complicated, a minimum set of tools required

Components

This is what the most complete set of power steering looks like:

If you remove the set of priors with your own hands, then you will not have any problems, you will be able to get everything and see how it stands, but if you assemble it in parts... Particularly difficult to find is the boot installed in the engine shield, at the entry point of the steering slats in the interior:

Catalog 2110-3401165-20. Even his image is difficult to find

And also its pressure plate:

It's easier to find. Catalog 2110-3401208-20

All other parts are either on sale or can be obtained from disassembly.

Special attention should be paid to high pressure hoses. They come in old and new designs. The old ones differ in that their rubber hose can be directly detached from the steel tube, which is screwed with a hollow bolt onto the spool mechanism of the rack. This is more convenient because it allows you to replace a leaking hose without removing the rack.

Marked where it disconnects. Catalogs 2110-3408018-01 and 2110-3408100-01 for two halves

The new model is solid, the hose used in them is from Continental. Replacement requires dismantling the rack. I don't know the benefits.

Catalogs 2110-3408018-20 and 2110-3408100-20

However, there is one big, no, huge problem with the new hoses! They sell fakes everywhere! In my city, I couldn’t find real ones in any store! You can read how to distinguish them in this article. With a fake hose, when turning the steering wheel, at some moments you will feel vibration in the steering mechanism and a hum. In general, everything is described in the article.

Next are the brackets. I installed everything according to the standard scheme and used standard brackets. The power steering pump is mounted on its bracket with three bolts at the front and an additional plate at the rear. If you buy a bracket separately, pay attention to its availability:

The generator moves upstairs, like in 16th grade. engines. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that there are generator brackets for the power steering and for the air conditioner. They are very different in appearance:

Bracket for air conditioner

I chose the power steering one; it is attached at three widely spaced points and generally inspires more confidence.

I can’t say for sure, but it may be necessary to install a new type of engine support bracket, without the ear on top:

The fact is that the power steering bracket of the generator has a casting on top that, as it were, hugs the engine support bracket from above. It will not fit on an old-style bracket without modifications with a file; it is necessary to sharpen about a centimeter of the casting. But besides this, I got the impression that the generator bracket still rests on top of some protrusions and turns out to be turned a little clockwise (within the limits of the bolt stroke). That. The generator itself is not strictly coaxial with the rest of the pulleys. I came to this conclusion after the outer part of the roller was eaten away by a belt. Now I've installed a new sample, and it seems like he's not eating anything anymore.

And lastly, the steering cardan. When installing power steering, it needs to be replaced because the part of the steering rack that extends into the cabin is significantly longer:

I can’t say for sure the difference in length, but something around 35 cm for the long one and 27 cm for the short one. The cardan shafts are solid, like on the 2110, and detachable, like on the Priors. I chose the second option because... much easier to install.

It allows you to separately attach the parts to the column and rail, and then simply screw them together without having to aim anywhere. According to the factory, the long half is attached to the rail, and the short half to the column, but I secured it the other way around because... in this case, access to the bolt connecting them is much more convenient.

This concludes the first part. In the next one I’ll talk about the practical aspects of installation and non-standard parts.

Read further: Power steering for 2110 8 cells. Part 2

Nuances of installing power steering

Every car owner who installs a hydraulic booster must follow the instructions, otherwise the installation of the system may be carried out with errors. And this, in turn, will lead to incorrect operation of the power steering.

So, how to install power steering on the “Ten”:

First, the timing case is removed and the bracket is installed with three screws. There are corresponding holes in the interior, so there is no need to drill anything additional. Next, the stud is installed, on which the roller will subsequently be mounted. There are no holes for the stud, so you will have to drill them. After installing the roller, the bracket is installed and fixed.
The generator unit, as well as both of its clamps, must be dismantled; similar actions are performed with the column. The shaft will need to be trimmed a little, about 3.5 cm. If you have an angle grinder with a welding machine, then you can do this step yourself; if not, contact a specialist.
Then part of the bracket is sawed off, after which it will be possible to securely attach the pump to it and close it with a pillow. The resulting structure is mounted on the power unit, or rather, in the place where the generator unit bracket was installed.
Now you need to find the adsorber and install a bracket for the expansion tank under it. To do this, unscrew the screw securing the engine mount, and then lift the engine. The power steering strap is installed in the resulting hole; it should be securely fastened to the roller.
Now all you have to do is replace the standard installed rack with a new one from the hydraulic booster. Remove the pole of screws and complete the assembly procedure of the device. Connect the hoses and fill the expansion tank with working fluid; to pump it, turn the steering wheel to the extreme right and left positions with the engine off and running.

The part marked in red will need to be sawed off

The need for power steering

VAZ 2112 cars coming off the factory assembly line do not contain power steering. This fact may indicate that the machine simply does not need such a device. However, you can find power steering on sale and install it yourself. Before buying anything, spending time and effort, it would be wise to weigh all the facts.

Arguments in favor of hydraulic booster

Aspects that indicate the need to install this device are as follows:

Facilitation of parking;
Reduced effort on long turns;
Increased ease of control on the road.

As you can see from the list, there are few arguments. But for some drivers they are very important.

Ease of parking

The main purpose of the VAZ 2112 power steering is to reduce the effort when turning the wheels. In winter, when the surface is slippery, turning the wheel of a stationary car is quite simple. But if you imagine that there is asphalt under the car with small stones sticking out and digging into the tire, then you will have to make a lot of effort to perform the desired maneuver.

At such moments, it is best to start turning the wheels immediately after starting to move, as this helps reduce the load on the steering mechanism. If the parking process causes a lot of inconvenience to the driver, then you should think about installing power steering. This is often typical for female drivers.

Reduced effort in movement

Moving along a straight path and a flat surface, driving the VAZ 2112 does not cause much trouble. But when entering a sharp turn, changing the trajectory of the car requires effort.

This is due to the fact that it is affected by centripetal acceleration, the vector of which is directed perpendicular to the car. At such moments, power steering will be very useful.

Arguments against the amplifier

After analyzing the positive factors, the driver will immediately want to install an amplifier for himself. But besides the positive, there are also negative aspects. These include:

Repair costs;
Labor intensive installation process;
Changes in body design.

The power steering mechanism of the VAZ 2112 has significant shortcomings. The degree of their significance for the driver determines the further decision. The existing aspects should be assessed as objectively as possible.

Repair costs

Over time, any mechanism wears out and needs repair. It is clear that an increase in the number of mechanisms inevitably leads to increased costs for their maintenance and repair.

When installing the amplifier, the following malfunctions may occur:

Loss of system tightness;
Broken or loose pump belt;
Malfunction of the distributor;
Destruction of rubber parts;
System clogged.
Wear and failure of the working cylinder.

Depending on the malfunction, there is a need for certain purchases and associated costs. Not only monetary expenses, but also time will be needed in such situations.

Complexity of the installation process

As the amplifier is introduced, there will be difficulties associated with changing the body, so you need to be prepared for this. The necessary elements are purchased independently. The installation process will be accompanied by the addition of a pump with its mount and belt, a reservoir for working fluid, a distributor, hoses, tubes, and an actuator. All parts must be properly secured. ATF is often used as a working fluid. But there are other options, including those indicated in the instructions accompanying the purchased parts

The desire for additional amenities leads to the complication of the car. And this, in turn, is fraught with a decrease in reliability and costs. In addition, people become weaker physically.

When we want to simplify our life in some way, it turns out that, on the contrary, we make it more difficult. Installing a hydraulic booster on a VAZ 2112 is advisable when there is a genuine need for it; in all other cases it will only be an additional convenience.

Liquid leakage from the system along the way will lead to failure of the amplifier. In winter, due to low temperatures, noise may occur during operation of the device. This brings some discomfort, as the process of driving a car may be disrupted.

Is repair possible?

The VAZ 2110 steering rack with power steering is a fairly reliable unit, but even it can fail if the car is used incorrectly.

Repairing the steering mechanism may involve the following steps:

Repair of power steering rack. In this case, the repair procedure consists of replacing parts from the repair kit. This kit includes sealing elements for the piston and shaft, oil seals, bushings, as well as inserts for pressing the shaft. During this task, the surface of the shaft may be machined.
Switchgear repair. This procedure involves replacing the upper and inner oil seals, sealing elements and grinding the shaft. If the distributor shows signs of ring wear, the housing will also need to be lined.
Repair of the rack with restoration of the shaft. In this case, all the steps described above are performed, but in addition to this, you will also need to restore the shaft by building up the babbitt. You will also need to coat it with chrome and grind it.
If we are talking about a major overhaul, then you will need to perform all the steps described above, as well as completely replace the transverse shaft, its (side) clamp, along with the nuts and distributor. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the high-pressure lines along with the steering rods.

Price issue

The cost of a new EUR today is about 13-18 thousand rubles. On the secondary market you can buy a set for 2-6 thousand. The price for a complete set of power steering is on average about 20 thousand rubles.

Disassembling the steering rack

Remove the support and protective cap from both sides of the mechanism.
Release the protective covers.
Remove the stop nut using a special wrench.

Remove the stop nut

Removing the drive gear with bearing

Remove the support sleeve

Next, you need to replace all the elements that are included in the steering rack repair kit, check the product for play and conduct a visual inspection.

After disassembling the rack, special attention should be paid to the worm gear mechanism and the support sleeve. Also, if the anthers are damaged, then corrosion of some parts of the mechanism may occur.

Everything here needs to be cleaned and rinsed, and also generously lubricated.

It is necessary to change the retaining ring and the rack stop. These parts are subject to the most wear and tear.