Exhaust system VAZ 2115 injector 8 valves

Exhaust system connecting parts

the sealing gasket serves to connect the manifold and the exhaust pipe;
a movable hinge connects the converter flange and the exhaust pipe;
the metallographic ring is located between the flanges;
the connecting parts between the muffler pipes are a clamp with flared ends and conical rings;
the exhaust pipe is secured with DISPOSABLE nuts to the studs of the exhaust manifold and to the walls of the bracket.

Mufflers and pipes are a single system, and if they break down, the entire muffler device must be replaced with new ones.

Exhaust system design

All parts of the gas exhaust system of the VAZ-2115 car can be easily disassembled, which allows you to replace them yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Main parts of the gas outlet unit:

Bracket mounting of the exhaust pipe.
A gasket located between the pipe and the intake manifold.
The clamping part of the bracket (represents a plate).
Pipe for receiving gases from the engine.
Metalgraphite gasket in the form of a ring.
Catalyst.
Rubber mounting pad.
First (additional) muffler.
Main muffler.
Rear mounting cushion.
Fastening clamp (often called brackets).

The location of most of the listed spare parts is under the bottom of the car, which makes them vulnerable to mechanical damage.

The cause may be not only external damage (most often caused by falling into holes or difficult to navigate places), but also exposure to chemical reagents or the influence of climatic conditions.

Gas exhaust system (muffler diagram)

For 1.5l engines

Reception pipe connection bracket.
Pad.
Bracket seal.
Secondary muffler. (Muffler resonator)
Muffler suspension cushions.
Main muffler.
Muffler pipe connection clamp.
Hinge O-ring.
Neutralizer.
Connecting ring.
Oxygen concentration sensor.

For 1.6l engines

The exhaust system on 1.6-liter engines is distinguished by the absence of a converter (a metal corrugation is installed instead) and the presence of a catalytic manifold (installed immediately after gasket number 3).

For information, the toxicity standard for VAZ 2114, 2113, 2115 is R 83.

Muffler mount

The muffler hangs on the car using the muffler suspension cushion (5), and the components of the muffler are connected to each other by gaskets, O-rings, and clamps.

The exhaust system of the VAZ 2114 serves to remove fuel combustion products from the engine unit. There are practically no special features in the design of the channels: it is the same as that of the entire VAZ family. Nevertheless, it is worth discussing some details, for example, how to tune the exhaust system of a VAZ or replace old structural elements with new ones.

What role does the VAZ 2115 exhaust system play?

System functions and properties

In addition to removing exhaust gases, the exhaust system of the VAZ 2114 weakens the impact of sound vibrations that the engine emits during operation. The engine creates a lot of noise, and only thanks to the exhaust pipes can it be muffled. The design of the unit consists of the following main parts:

muffler for VAZ main;
secondary muffler pipe;
neutralizer (only in injection engine models);
collector pipe;
exhaust pipe;
corrugation;
resonator;

To maintain environmental standards, a catalytic converter was installed in engines with fuel injection through an injector - a device that helps reduce emissions into the atmosphere. The catalyst allows you to burn up to 95% of the fuel that enters the combustion chamber, thereby reducing the amount of combustion products and increasing engine productivity. Thanks to a set of sensors through the computer in the car, the neutralizer can regulate the amount of toxic substances in the exhaust gases. But at the moment this design is an outdated option and is practically not used in modern cars.

Common problems

The exhaust system of the VAZ 2115 and 2114 has one significant flaw - terrible anti-corrosion protection. Because of this, burnouts often form throughout the entire structure. This flaw has become a nightmare for inexperienced drivers. The moisture that accumulates inside the pipes destroys the metal, causing damage to the exhaust system. Another type of damage is ruptures of suspensions and channels.

This effect occurs when the catalyst fails and fuel droplets enter the system channels. When exposed to high temperatures, they ignite, which leads to fires and explosions inside the pipes.

Repairs after such damage are possible, but it makes no sense to “patch holes” by welding. Budget repair options will not work. You can replace individual parts of the assembly one by one, but this will bring little benefit. A complete redesign of the system and installation of new components will be required. But choosing the right parts is difficult. You can install pipes from a sports kit, but this will have almost no effect on the performance of the car. Therefore, the next task is to select a suitable set of pipes for upgrading the unit.

Replacement options

If you want to ensure a minimum of problems with the gas exhaust system in the future, look for stainless steel products similar to factory ones, since the exhaust pipe circuit has poor anti-corrosion protection. The shelf life of the structure will depend on the quality of materials, so stainless steel will be the most profitable purchase. To select suitable components, focus on the diameter of the old pipes.

For new steel components, do not forget to purchase an additional metal-graphite sealing ring, and also update the VAZ muffler. A rubber gasket under a stainless steel system is also useful.

Why does a sports exhaust system not make sense for the VAZ 2114? There is information that special pipes and mufflers that provide direct exhaust exit can increase engine performance by 10-15%. This effect can only be observed in cars whose engines have at least 200 hp. With. power. For the sports update to be profitable, the engine power will also need to be increased. So this type of tuning is suitable for those drivers who want their classic 2114 to become a car for racing or high-speed driving on the highway.

Installation and dismantling

Before installation, we disassemble the old system:

Using a metal brush, we clean the 2 bolts that secure the clamp between the muffler and the resonator.
Lubricate the fastening nuts with WD-shkoy, machine oil or rust remover.
Take a 13mm wrench and tighten the nuts. If this does not work out, cut it with a grinder.
Next, remove the clamp itself and take out the sealing ring.
We disconnect the muffler from the resonator, dismantle the VAZ 2114 muffler itself.
We unscrew the fastenings of the remaining parts and remove them.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. If you have not encountered such work before, it is better to take your car to a service center to replace the exhaust system.

The VAZ 2114 muffler can be replaced independently. Just repeat steps 1-5. The resonator is replaced after dismantling the muffler.

The exhaust system of the VAZ 2114 is a complete problem. The presence of serious design flaws makes itself felt very often: either a breakdown will occur, or the pipes will rust.

The exhaust on a VAZ is easier to replace than to repair.

For urban conditions, expensive tuning does not make sense, so it is worth looking for a more reliable analogue, for example, a stainless steel exhaust system kit.

VAZ cars of the 14th and 15th models are still in demand among Russian drivers today. The machines are easy to use, do not require vigilant attention and rarely require repairs. However, they also have a “sore spot” - the mufflers. Therefore, VAZ 2114/2115 owners need to be prepared for the fact that sooner or later they will have to repair or replace the silencer on their car.

Direct exhaust system

Almost all the elements of the exhaust system were purchased by me in the first year after the start of the car modification project. The very first of them was purchased an exhaust manifold ( spider 4-2-1

) in the online store stinger-shop in April 2013. I was originally looking for a stainless steel manifold in the budget price range but couldn't find anything. Although, probably, I didn’t really bother, that’s why I stopped at the stinger store website. Moreover, this particular brand was especially widespread among exhaust systems at that time; I had never even heard of STT at that time, and sites like tuningsport, clubturbo, meta-s acted only as speculators. At least that's how it was in my mind. At the time of ordering, I did not find a section for manifolds made of stainless steel, so I put in the cart “Exhaust manifold / spider 4-2-1 (SPORT) 16 V “Stinger” for VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2199, VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115” made according to the description from steel 08 ps. It cost 1800 rubles. Before paying for the order, I asked the store manager about the possibility of making the selected manifold from stainless steel. The answer was yes. After which I paid for the order in the amount of 2800 rubles.

After receiving the order, I was interested to check whether the manifold is actually made of stainless steel. Initially, I was like the amateur method – the magnet method. Having found out that the metal from which the collector is made has magnetic properties, I used a more accurate method - chemical. After cleaning a small section of the pipe with sandpaper, I applied a few drops of copper sulfate to it. After a short time, the color of the metal remained virtually unchanged. For the experiment, I repeated this on ordinary carbon steel, where copper precipitation occurred almost immediately, as evidenced by a rich reddish tint at the site of the reaction. Now I was sure that the spider was indeed made of stainless steel. The only thing I remembered later was that I did not check what steel the flange adjacent to the cylinder head was made of. By “later” we mean the complete preparation of the spider for installation, after which I no longer wanted to know anything, so we will assume that the material of the product satisfied my wishes.

Next, I would like to touch on the issue of the quality of workmanship of the purchased product. Here, as always, I was dissatisfied. Although, if judged objectively, the collector is more likely to correspond to the price-quality ratio.

The first step in modifying the manifold was additional welding of the pipes from the inside at the junction with the flange adjacent to the cylinder head. I believe that this should have a beneficial effect on the strength and durability of the product, as well as on the hydrodynamic performance of the collector channels. After welding, the following picture was obtained in each of the four channels.

After that, I had to process the channels and pin holes according to the same coordinates in which the exhaust channels of the cylinder head were processed during its modification. But before this, it was necessary to bring out the contact plane of the flange, since after welding it was significantly deformed.

I had to build a device to install the collector on the grinding machine, which was later used when milling on a milling machine.

The processing was carried out on a surface grinding machine model 3B70V. The only thing that had to be done for smooth installation and further processing of the part on the machine was to remove the handle from the steering wheel of the longitudinal feed of the table.

As a result, the thickness of the flange at the edges was about 8 mm, in the center about 10 mm. Due to this deformation, some of the mounting holes had to be modified subsequently, as their coordinates were shifted.

Further processing of the channels was carried out on a model 67M20VF2 machine, which, after modernization, received a relatively modern NC-202 CNC system.

The working area of the machine did not allow processing all the holes in one setup, so we had to set it up a second time.

After processing the canals, shells opened up in some places, which were later welded back and processed. Unfortunately, there are no photographs of the final appearance of the collector channels. Most likely, I simply forgot to do them due to the rush to install it and the desire to start the engine as soon as possible.

Here, on the machine, I also modified the two-layer metal gasket, drilling holes in it for the pins.

Considering that the manifold was ready for installation, I tried to mount it under the hood. The first thing I noticed was the contact of the secondary manifold pipes with the thermal shield of the brake pipes and the fuel return line.

Looking ahead, I will say that this problem could not be solved, and this thermal screen still had to be abandoned. Secondly, the deviation of the end pipes from the horizontal plane of the body bottom is too large and, in my opinion, their location is low, given that the suspension will use an anti-roll bar from a Lada Granta car, manufactured by TechnoMaster.

Well, the third argument, which initially bothered me, but I turned a blind eye to it, was the imperfection of the channel connections in the internal cavity of the collector. This technology for joining pipes in the manufacture of a collector requires quite precise fitting to achieve the required ( correct)

) channel geometry, but with the serial type of production and taking into account the cost of the product, the quality can change dramatically from one to another. As a result, the manifold was sawed and welded again in place. To connect the primary and secondary pipes, I decided to use stamped tees used by ProCar in the manufacture of exhaust manifolds.

The first two tees had to be slightly modified by cutting off their inlet sockets, which are designed for a pipe with a diameter of 43 mm. But even at the same time, the tees sat with a fairly large gap on the primary collector pipes.

The last tee fit just perfectly, all the pipes fit tightly into its holes. This was very convenient for preliminary installation and tacking of the exhaust system.

As a result of welding the manifold, it turned out to be a little shorter, and it was not possible to place a hole on it for the oxygen sensor. I decided to make it later on the resonator pipe, which had to be lengthened by the missing amount, fortunately I had a small piece of the 51st pipe that I somehow got from a very good friend Densa17.

The underbody thermal shield in the area of the gearbox gate was either missing initially after purchasing the car, or I sent it to scrap when dismantling the standard exhaust system. I can’t say for sure now, but in any case I had to purchase it. In addition, the end pipes of the manifold were too close to the bottom, relative to the serial location of the standard intake pipe.

As always, I turned to the site avtozapchasty.ru for help in purchasing a screen. Order number 21080-1206020-10.

The screen itself had to be modified a little by cutting off its stamped collar on the front side, since it touched the collector. Otherwise there were no problems with its installation.

When choosing a resonator and muffler, I gave my preference to FOX. I purchased everything from the clubturbo online store in the form of welded components ready for installation. The resonator and muffler itself are made of stainless steel, the pipes are made of 08 ps steel. In May 2013, the muffler arrived; its price at that time was 3,450 rubles. I received the resonator only in August of the same year due to its absence at the time of ordering the muffler, I paid 2900 rubles for it.

The connection of the resonator and muffler implied the use of a serial clamp with a ring from the Lada Priora car. With this connection method, the pipes had a certain profile at the ends, which locally reduces the flow area of the pipeline. Without bothering to find out the extent of the influence of this “bottleneck” on the characteristics of the exhaust system, I decided to switch to flange mounting. To do this, I purchased a exhaust pipe gasket from the same Priora, scanned it and made two flanges according to the resulting dimensions. Now the line has a constant flow area along its entire length, not taking into account the insert for the oxygen sensor.

Because the car’s suspension was lowered by -50 mm. I tried to place the muffler as high as possible, thereby trying to avoid its contact with the rear beam when the car was moving. Because of this, the muffler was slightly tilted relative to the horizontal, and its end pipe touched the body. As a temporary solution, I simply shortened the end pipe a little. When installing the exhaust system, I used serial rubber muffler pads, later replacing them with polyurethane ones.

After completing the main welding work with the exhaust system, all that remained was to manufacture and place an insert with a plug for the oxygen sensor on the resonator pipe and paint the bare metal.

I asked a turner colleague to turn out an insert with a stainless steel plug. Then I milled a hole in the pipe for it. The axis of the hole is located at approximately an angle of 15-20 degrees to the horizontal.

Now the exhaust system was completely ready for use. Next in line is the cooling system.

What is a car muffler for?

Regardless of the make and year of manufacture of the car, all its systems serve one purpose - to ensure stable operation of the engine and movement. The exhaust system may seem insignificant compared to systems such as the brakes or fuel. However, it is the vehicle's exhaust system that has the most direct impact on engine performance.

The muffler is an integral part of the exhaust system . Its main purpose is to remove exhaust gases outside the car. In addition, the part also serves to reduce noise, since residual fuel can burn in the exhaust system pipes.

The pipe comes out from the rear left side of the car

How to attach

The muffler on the VAZ 2114/2115 is attached to the car body. To ensure that the pipe is securely fixed and does not vibrate during movement, two fastening methods are used:

on rubber suspensions.

Bolts and nuts for fastening the muffler pipes are made of special heat-resistant alloys

The muffler is attached directly to the exhaust manifold with bolted connections, which guarantee complete tightness of the joints. The middle part is also fixed with bolts and nuts. And the resonator and exhaust pipe are suspended on special hooks on the bottom with elastic bands. These suspensions are easy to remove and put on, but at the same time provide rigidity even when driving on uneven roads.

Schematic design of the exhaust system on a VAZ 2114/2115

The gas exhaust system of the VAZ 2114/2115 consists of several parts. Connecting to each other in series, all parts ultimately serve one purpose - reducing noise and removing exhaust emissions outside the body.

How to notice a node malfunction

It is not difficult to determine that it is time to change parts of the exhaust system on a VAZ-2115 with an 8-valve engine. Even a novice car enthusiast can cope with this, since the main signs are the appearance of a strong smell of exhaust gases in the cabin and an increased noise level. Most often, faults are hidden in the additional or main muffler, as well as in the gaskets between the connections, which can burn out over time.

The classification of the most frequently occurring faults is as follows:

mechanical damage to the muffler;
burnout of gaskets;
corrugation burnout;
loosening of connections at joints;
cracks in the system pipes.

Problems can be spotted by visual inspection. Experienced specialists recommend removing gas exhaust units for these purposes. This way you can examine them from all sides and notice the slightest damage. After you conduct a visual inspection of the system, you need to buy spare parts and begin repairs. It's easy to do it yourself.

If there are no external problems, you can try replacing the internal resonator. This repair method will only help those who know how to handle welding equipment.

Small burns and holes can be covered with sealant. Just pay attention: it must easily withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees. Before applying the composition, it is necessary to thoroughly clean and degrease the surfaces.

How to replace a muffler on a VAZ 2114/2115

If you start having any problems with the muffler, it is better not to put it off for a long time. The life and health of the driver and passengers depends on how correctly the “glushak” works. In general, the replacement process itself begins with the selection of a new exhaust system kit. It is best not to save money, but to purchase an original factory one. This will delay the need for repeated replacement indefinitely.

In addition, it is recommended to change the fastening bolts during each replacement. It is necessary to choose products made from heat-resistant materials, since otherwise the bolts will quickly stick to the bottom and will be impossible to unscrew.

To ensure reliable operation, it is advisable to buy new rubber suspensions in advance.

What tools will you need?

To work you will need a simple set of tools:

two open-end wrenches for 13;

brake fluid or WD-40 lubricant;

screwdriver with a flat thin blade.

How to remove a muffler without a hole

The easiest way is to use an overpass or inspection hole - in this case, you can more conveniently crawl under the car body and carry out the necessary operations. However, drivers often do not have the opportunity to use such devices, so they use a regular jack.

To remove the “glushak” from a VAZ 2114/2115, you must:

Jack up the rear left edge of the vehicle.

Make sure the machine is stable.

Reach under the body and moisten all pipe connections and bolts with lubricant.

Wait 10–15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed.

After which you can begin to unscrew the bolted connections. If the bolts cannot be unscrewed with regular wrenches, it is recommended to cut them off with a chisel and hammer. However, you need to act extremely carefully so as not to catch the bottom.

After the pipe has been unscrewed, all that remains is to remove the part from several rubber hangers. To do this, the body is raised slightly. If the rubber band is tight, you can pry it off with a screwdriver.

The dismantled muffler is pulled out from under the car.

The muffler on the VAZ 2114/2115 is attached to the bottom with five hangers

How to install a new one and secure it correctly

Before you begin installing a new muffler, you need to clean all strategically important places under the bottom: hooks for attaching rubber bands, brackets for bolts. Install the product in the reverse order:

First, pull the muffler under the car body and position it in the position in which it will be fixed.

After this, hang the exhaust pipe and resonator on rubber hangers. Make sure that each connection is secure and the part will not fall off the hooks at the first road pothole.

Next, start tightening the nuts on the bolts. Screw it all the way, but without fanaticism, as you can break the thread.

Lower the car from the jack.

After this, it is recommended to check the performance of the VAZ. It will be enough to start the engine and rev it up a little.

Video: replacing the muffler

Muffler replacement

Using the example of replacing this component, we will show that it is not difficult to repair the exhaust system and dismantle its components. To work, you will need to install the car in the garage above a pit or drive it onto an overpass. Disassembling this node is not so difficult:

disconnect the main and additional muffler;
bend the hooks of the hanging straps;
remove the brackets;
remove the main muffler, which is mounted on the cushions.

After this, you will need to reassemble in the reverse order, only instead of the old spare part, hang the new one on the cushions. If the fastenings of the clamp connecting the resonator and the muffler pipe are dirty, clean them with a metal brush.

Before assembling the system, clean the gasket ring thoroughly. You can coat it with heat-resistant sealant to reliably seal the exhaust gases inside the system. The above method of replacing a muffler can also be used in cases where you want to tune your car.

Many car enthusiasts install sports mufflers on their VAZ-2115, which have a qualitatively different sound. In this case, you don’t have to wait for a malfunction to appear. Also, the new muffler can improve the environmental characteristics of the car, that is, after replacing this component, it will release less exhaust gases into the atmosphere. Remember that sport or upgraded mufflers will cost more than the stock replacement part.

If you want to tune your car, get ready to spend a lot of money. Buy only new imported spare parts. You should not try to turn an ordinary spare part into a sports modification using welding. This homemade product will not last long. For the same reason, we recommend replacing entire parts of the exhaust system rather than trying to repair them if malfunctions occur.

How to repair a “glushak” with your own hands

The muffler on the “fourteenth” and “fifteenth” is considered one of the most vulnerable points of the car. The fact is that due to exposure to high temperatures, the metal quickly burns out, that is, the tightness of the system is broken. Therefore, the part must be changed as soon as there is a suspicion that it is not working.

Reasons for failure

Most often, mufflers “burn out” - that is, due to hot exhaust, the metal inside the housing begins to thin out, which ultimately leads to the appearance of holes. However, this is not the only reason why the silencer may fail:

using a homemade device - handicraft products do not differ in quality and long service life;

mechanical shocks from uneven roads - dents and deformations of the pipe also lead to loss of tightness;

Rust and corrosion sooner or later affects even the highest quality original mufflers.

In general, all of the above factors influence service life to some extent. The car owner can easily identify all of the above faults - just drive the VAZ into the inspection hole and visually examine the muffler. In addition, when deformations, burnouts and corrosion reach their “peak”, the part will begin to make characteristic sounds when moving - gurgling, sharp pops, knocking.