Design, purpose, diagnostics and repair of the VAZ 2101 generator with your own hands

This usually happens when the generator is faulty, when electrical appliances are powered from the battery. Most often, the light comes on for the following reasons: Slipping of the V-belt on the generator pulley. Horn switch. But still it must be considered part of the structure. GENERATOR AND RELAY 702 FOR INDICATION OF GENERATOR OPERATION

Disassembling the stator and rotor Next, remove the rotor assembly with the rear bearing from the front cover.

When the engine is not running, the readings should be within 11.6 V. The generator brushes, generator pulley and other structural elements can fail. But still it must be considered part of the structure.

Direction of rotation - right on the drive side Maximum output current at 14 V and rotor speed min - 42 A Maximum rotor speed - 13 min Gear ratio engine-generator - .04 The generator rotor is driven by a V-belt from a pulley mounted on the crankshaft motor shaft. Considering the simplicity of the “penny”, to troubleshoot the problem you only need a multimeter and the ability to use it.

VAZ generator Replacing a VAZ 2101 generator with a VAZ 2109 generator (Excitation connection diagram)

Features of the VAZ 2101 generator

VAZ 2101 has two sources of electricity - a battery and a generator. The first is used when the engine is off, and the second while driving. The operating principle of the VAZ 2101 generator is based on the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. It produces only alternating current, which is converted into direct current by a special device.

VAZ 2101 is considered one of the longest-living models, largely due to the performance of the generator

The main task of the generator is to uninterruptedly generate electric current to maintain the functionality of all electronic devices in the car, including recharging the battery.

Technical characteristics of the VAZ 2101 generator

The generator is connected to a crankshaft pulley that drives the water pump. Therefore, in the VAZ 2101 it is installed in the engine compartment to the right of the engine. The generator has the following technical characteristics:

• rated voltage - 12 V;
• maximum current - 52 A;
• the direction of rotation of the rotor is to the right (relative to the motor housing);
• weight (without adjustment unit) - 4.28 kg.

The manufacturer installed G-221 generators on the VAZ 2101

Cost and interchangeability

Built-in relay voltage regulator 71.3702 for generator G-222

The average price for a voltage regulator, both built into the brushes and remote, is about 100 rubles.

Models of generators G-221 and G-222 are interchangeable, that is, you can easily install a new generator from the “seven” for a “penny”, but you should pay attention to the correct charge of the battery. To do this, it is necessary to modify the electrical wiring according to the standard connection diagram.

Depending on the situation, either install an external voltage regulator relay, or, conversely, remove the external one and leave one built into the generator.

The normal voltage in the car's on-board network is considered to be in the range of 13.5-14.5 Volts.

Any car, including the VAZ 2101, has two sources of power supply - a battery and a generator. The generator ensures the operation of all electrical appliances while driving. Its failure can cause a lot of trouble for the car owner. However, diagnosing a malfunction and repairing a VAZ 2101 generator with your own hands is quite simple.

Selecting a generator for VAZ 2101

The manufacturer equipped the VAZ 2101 with generators of the G-221 model. The maximum current of 52 A was enough to operate all standard electrical appliances. However, the installation of additional equipment by car owners (powerful acoustics, navigator, additional headlights, etc.) led to the fact that the G-221 could no longer cope with increased loads. There was a need to replace the generator with a more powerful one.

Without any problems, you can install the following devices on the VAZ 2101:

1. A generator from a VAZ 2105 with a maximum current of 55 A. The power is enough to operate a conventional speaker system and, for example, an additional LED strip for lighting. It is installed on standard mounts for the VAZ 2101 generator. The only differences are that the regulator relay is built into the generator housing, while on the G-221 it is located separately.
2. Generator from VAZ 2106 with a maximum current of 55 A. Withstands slight overloads. Installed on standard G-221 mounts.
3. Generator from VAZ 21074 with a maximum current of 73 A. Its power is sufficient to operate any additional electrical equipment. It is installed on standard VAZ 2101 mounts, but the connection diagram is slightly different.
4. Generator from VAZ 2121 Niva with a maximum current of 80 A. The most powerful among its analogues. However, its installation on the VAZ 2101 will require significant modifications.
5. Generators from foreign cars. The best option is generators from Fiat. Installing such a device on a VAZ 2101 will require noticeable changes in the design of the generator mounting and its connection diagram without guarantees of high-quality operation.

Photo gallery: generators for VAZ 2101

The generator from the VAZ 2105 is installed on the standard mounts of the VAZ 2101

The generator from the VAZ 2106 can withstand slight overloads and is installed on standard G-221 mounts. The power of the generator from the VAZ 21074 is sufficient to operate any additional electrical equipment

It is quite difficult to install a Niva generator on a VAZ 2101

In fact, it will be enough for the driver of a VAZ 2101 to install a generator from a “six” or “seven” to satisfy all his electricity needs. Even with complex tuning, a power of 60–70 amperes is enough to maintain the operation of all devices.

Lada Priora - generator replacement

The Priora requires a powerful generator; the car has a lot of electronics and a weak installation cannot cope with it.

A generator labeled 5102.3771 is recommended for the Priora, providing a power of 80 A; on luxury versions with even more electronics, a 115 A device is installed. Then which generator is better to install on the Priora?

Car owners recommend a unit produced by KZATEtm Samara plant under number 9402.3701-14, producing 115 A.

There is no need to modify it during installation, you just need to find the connector, because there are differences from the standard one. You can use a plug from a VAZ-2108 from the limit switch for turning on the reversing lights, which costs only 20 rubles.

Next, you will have to make a little modification when connecting to the “B+” power terminal in order to fit it to the desired size.

The cost, of course, of domestic units is higher than that of Chinese or Bulgarian ones, sold for 2200 and 3000, respectively. For Russian ones they ask for about 4000. But if you need repairs with Russian-made components, you can easily find spare parts.

Connection diagram for the VAZ 2101 generator

The VAZ 2101 generator is connected using a single-wire circuit - one wire from the generator is connected to each device. This makes it easy to connect the generator yourself.

The VAZ 2101 generator is connected using a single-wire circuit

Features of connecting the VAZ 2101 generator

Several multi-colored wires are connected to the VAZ 2101 generator:

• the yellow wire comes from the warning light on the dashboard;
• a thick gray wire goes from the regulator relay to the brushes;
• a thin gray wire goes to the relay;
• The orange wire acts as an additional connector and is usually connected to a thin gray wire during installation.

Incorrect connection of wires can cause a short circuit or voltage surges in the electrical circuit of the VAZ 2101.

For ease of installation, the wires for connecting the VAZ 2101 generator are painted in different colors

Generator windings

There are two of them - rotor (excitation) and stator (power). The operating principle of the installation is that current generation in the power winding is possible only if the following two conditions are met:

1. There is a constant magnetic field.
2. This field rotates relative to the power winding.

Only if they are followed will the generator work. By applying voltage to the rotor winding, we obtain a magnetic field. Since the rotor rotates from the crankshaft, the second condition is satisfied. But you also need to pay attention to what is the connection diagram for the VAZ-2101 generator. It is connected to the battery in parallel to perform charging.

The device of the VAZ 2101 generator

For its time, the design of the G-221 generator turned out to be quite successful. It was installed without modifications on subsequent models of the plant - VAZ 2102 and VAZ 2103. With proper maintenance and timely replacement of failed elements, it could be used for many years.

Structurally, the G-221 generator consists of the following main elements:

• rotor;
• stator;
• regulator relay;
• semiconductor bridge;
• brushes;
• pulley.

The G-221 generator is attached to the engine on a special bracket. This allows you to firmly fix the device and at the same time protect it from high temperatures.

The bracket firmly fixes the generator even when driving on uneven roads

Rotor

The rotor is the moving part of the generator. It consists of a shaft, onto the corrugated surface of which a steel sleeve and beak-shaped poles are pressed. This design serves as the core of an electromagnet rotating in two ball bearings. Bearings must be closed type. Otherwise, due to lack of lubrication, they will quickly fail.

The rotor (armature) is the moving part of the generator

Pulley

The pulley can be considered either part of the generator or a separate element. It is installed on the rotor shaft and can be easily removed if necessary. When the engine is running, the pulley rotates by the crankshaft through the belt and transmits torque to the rotor. To prevent the pulley from overheating, there are special blades on its surface that provide natural ventilation.

The generator pulley is driven by the crankshaft through a belt.

Stator with windings

The stator consists of a number of special plates made of electrical steel. To increase resistance to loads in four places on the outer surface, these plates are connected by welding. A winding of copper wire is laid on them in special grooves. In total, the stator contains three windings, each of which consists of two coils. Thus, six coils are used to generate electricity by the generator.

The stator consists of plates made of electrical steel, on which a winding of copper wire is laid

Regulator relay

The regulator relay is a small plate with an electrical circuit inside, designed to control the voltage at the output of the generator. On the VAZ 2101, the relay is located outside the generator and is mounted on the rear cover from the outside.

The regulator relay is designed to control the voltage at the generator output

Brushes

Generating electricity from a generator is impossible without brushes. They are located in the brush holder and attached to the stator.

Only two brushes are fixed in the brush holder of the G-221 generator

Diode bridge

The rectifier (or diode bridge) is a horseshoe-shaped plate with built-in six diodes that converts alternating current to direct current. It is important that all diodes are in good working order - otherwise the generator will not be able to provide power to all electrical appliances.

The diode bridge is a horseshoe-shaped plate

Technical specifications

If the old generator fails, many motorists wonder which generator they should now replace the old one with.

There is no need to invent anything here. The most correct solution is to install the same generator as before, or a more powerful one.

Today, the VAZ 2110 provides for the use of three types of power supply devices:

1. Katek 5102.3771. The generator produces 80 Ampere power and its voltage is approximately 14V.
2. Katek 94.3701. This is a device with the same parameters. They are not seriously different.
3. Catek 120 amp. A generator that is more adapted to modern realities, when in addition to standard electrical equipment, motorists install many additional devices.

If you have a powerful audio system in your car, you use an electric pump powered by the car, as well as a number of other additional consumers, it is recommended to install a 120-amp unit instead of a standard 80-amp generator.

If we take into account the size of the devices, then we can distinguish between ordinary and compact ones. They have a certain difference in design

To be specific, the differences are in the following components:

• Brackets;
• Anchor;
• Excitation wire;
• Drive pulley;
• Number of mounting bolts.

But in reality this does not play a special role. After all, the structure of all generators used for the VAZ 2110 is the same. Therefore, let's look at the circuit and structure of this unit.

The presented device is relevant for all generators used on the VAZ 2110, regardless of their power - 80-120 Amperes.

Margin of safety

If we take into account the standard Katek generator, which is installed on domestic dozens, then its resource is enough for about 10 years of operation or 140 thousand kilometers. The specified safety margin of the device can only be relied upon if it is handled properly

The specified safety margin of the device can only be relied upon if it is handled properly.

Many people fear that a powerful 120 A generator can negatively affect the condition of the battery. In practice, nothing like this happens. Moreover, installing a more powerful unit is recommended if you plan to install an impressive audio system or video equipment on the car.

Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the VAZ 2101 generator

There are a number of signs and signals by which you can determine that the generator is faulty.

The charging indicator light comes on

On the dashboard of the VAZ 2101 there is a battery charging indicator. It lights up if the battery charge is close to zero. This usually happens when the generator is faulty, when electrical appliances are powered from the battery. Most often the light comes on for the following reasons:

1. Slipping of the V-belt on the generator pulley. It is recommended to check the belt tension, and if there is severe wear, replace it with a new one.
2. Failure of the battery charging indicator relay. You should check the serviceability of the relay using a multimeter.
3. Break in the stator winding. It is necessary to disassemble the generator and clean all its elements.
4. Severe brush wear. All brushes in the holder will need to be replaced, even if only one of them is worn out.
5. Short circuit in the diode bridge circuit. The burned out diode or the entire bridge should be replaced.

The battery indicator lights up if the battery charge is close to zero.

Battery won't charge

One of the tasks of the generator is to recharge the battery while driving. If this does not happen, you should pay attention to the following points.

1. Sagging V-belt. It is necessary to adjust its tension or replace it.
2. Loosening of the wire ends connecting the generator to the battery. All contacts should be cleaned or damaged tips should be replaced.
3. Battery failure. This can be checked and fixed by installing a new battery.
4. Damage to the voltage regulator. It is recommended to clean all contacts of the regulator and check the integrity of the wires.

The problem with the battery not charging is most often associated with a malfunction of the battery itself.

The battery is boiling over

If the battery begins to boil away, then, as a rule, its service life is coming to an end. In order not to risk the new battery, it is recommended to accurately identify the cause of boiling. It could be:

1. Lack of permanent contact between the generator voltage regulator housing and ground. It is recommended to clean the contacts and replace them if necessary.
2. Short circuit in the regulator. The voltage regulator needs to be replaced.
3. Battery failure. A new battery must be installed.

If the battery begins to boil away, it will need to be replaced in the near future.

Loud noise while driving

The VAZ 2101 generator usually operates quite noisily. The cause of the noise is the presence of contacting and rubbing elements in the generator design. If this noise has become unusually loud, knocking, whistling and rumbles have appeared, it is necessary to identify the cause of this situation. This is usually due to the following problems.

1. Loosening the fixing nut on the generator pulley. Tighten the nut and check all fastener joints.
2. Bearing failure. You will need to disassemble the generator and replace the bearings.
3. Short circuit in the stator winding. The stator assembly needs to be replaced.
4. Brushes creaking. It is recommended to clean the contacts and brush surfaces.

Any extraneous noise from the generator is a reason to troubleshoot

Removing and installing the voltage regulator

Replacing the external voltage regulator VAZ 2101-2106

1) Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts and remove the regulator.

2) Disconnect the two wires.

3) Attach the new regulator to the mudguard and connect the wires: orange to terminal “15”, and gray to terminal “67”.

Voltage regulator relay connection diagram

ATTENTION! Before starting the engine, make sure that the contact between the voltage regulator housing and the vehicle ground is reliable, and that the wires to terminals “15” and “67” are connected correctly.

It is necessary that the voltage at the output of the generator remains constant, and for this a simple principle is used. If you make sure that the supply voltage to the rotor winding is constant, you will be able to avoid changing the magnitude of the magnetic field. On a VAZ-2101, the generator must operate under a load of 13-14 V. Even two relay regulators of the same design can maintain a different voltage value.

Regulator types:

1. Mechanical - based on an electromechanical relay and resistance to reduce voltage.
2. Semiconductor - based on a small circuit of low-power transistors or one power switch.
3. Mixed - the design contains both a transistor circuit and an electromagnetic relay.

Brushes are exactly the element with which the connection diagram for the VAZ-2101 generator is implemented. Thanks to them, voltage is supplied to the slip rings of the moving rotor.

Installation is carried out in reverse order. If you need to replace the generator with a more powerful one, you can install an analogue from the VAZ-2107 or 2109 car model. They have more power and are able to provide stable charging of the battery. The difference from the “native” VAZ-2101 is that the voltage regulator is combined with the brush assembly.

The main thing is that there are no distortions, otherwise the belt will tear, wear out quickly, and the load on the rotor will increase several times. For normal operation it is necessary that this element have a certain tension. It is adjusted by changing the position of the housing relative to the engine. Fixation is made with a nut at the top of the generator.

Checking the functionality of the VAZ 2101 generator

The generator going out and breaking down is a rather unpleasant situation. Experts recommend periodically (at least twice a year) assessing its performance to determine the remaining resource.

You cannot check the functionality of the generator on a VAZ 2101 when disconnected from the battery while the engine is running, since there is a high probability of a voltage surge.

This can be done either at a stand in a service station or using an oscilloscope. However, no less accurate results can be obtained in a garage using a conventional multimeter.

Checking the generator with a multimeter

To test the generator, you can use either an analog or digital multimeter.

The specificity of the test does not allow the work to be carried out alone. Therefore, it is necessary to invite a friend in advance, since one person will have to be in the cabin, and the other will have to monitor the readings of the multimeter in the engine compartment of the car.

You can check the performance of the VAZ 2101 generator using a multimeter

The verification algorithm is extremely simple and consists of performing the following steps.

1. The multimeter is set to DC current measurement mode.
2. The device is connected to the battery terminals. With the engine not running, it should show between 11.9 and 12.6 V.
3. The interior assistant starts the engine and leaves it idling.
4. When the engine starts, the multimeter readings are recorded. If the voltage drops sharply, the generator's life is insignificant. If the voltage, on the contrary, jumps (to about 14.5 V), then the excess charge will lead to the battery boiling in the near future.

Video: checking the VAZ 2101 generator

The norm is a small voltage drop when the engine starts and a quick recovery of performance characteristics.

How to change the diode bridge of a VAZ 2107

In order to change the diode bridge (horseshoe), you need to unscrew the three screws holding the stator windings.

Before deciding to replace the diode bridge, it is better to test the diodes using a multimeter. If one of the diodes is broken (resistance is close to zero), it is better to replace the entire horseshoe with a new one. Self-repair of a diode bridge is possible if you have the appropriate diodes, but it is not ineffective, since the price is low.

If the stator windings are blackened, this means that during operation they overheated greatly and the stator needs to be replaced.

After the repair is completed, assembly and installation in the car is done in the reverse order. Having installed the generator belt, it is tensioned and secured with a nut. When tensioning the belt, use a tensioner, inserting it between the generator and the engine block. The same is done when replacing the VAZ 2107 alternator belt.

Next, connect the terminals of the wires to the battery in the sequence: positive, then negative.

Upon completion of installation work, a test run of the engine is performed and the battery charge parameters are measured. If the parameters match, the repair is considered completed. A complete replacement of the VAZ 2107 generator is carried out only if it is significantly damaged or, if desired, in the absence of spare parts. The price of a new generator ranges from 3,000 to 5,000 rubles.

The generator of each car is designed to supply all consumers with electric current and to charge the battery. The VAZ 2107 generator is an alternating current device with a unique electromagnetic excitation. It is installed to the right of the engine and is driven by a V-belt from the crankshaft. The key elements of this assembly are the rotor, stator and covers, cast from aluminum alloy.

In the history of the VAZ 2107, there are cases when models were equipped with generators 9412.3701, which have some design differences.

Before dismantling the “seven” generator, you need to realize that this work is considered difficult. In some cases, dismantling causes some problems, so first you need to think about how and what tools you will do everything with.

Fasteners and bolted connections usually stick tightly to the fasteners, so it is usually not possible to carry out dismantling work without WD-40. To remove the generator, you need to work from under the right wheel arch, which is not very convenient, so it is better to dismantle it by driving the car onto a lift or inspection hole.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2101 generator repair

Repairing a VAZ 2101 generator with your own hands is quite simple. All work can be divided into five stages:

1. Removing the generator from the car.
2. Disassembling the generator.
3. Troubleshooting.
4. Replacement of worn out and faulty elements with new ones.
5. Generator assembly.

First stage: dismantling the generator

To dismantle the VAZ 2101 generator you will need:

• open-end wrenches for 10, 17 and 19;
• mounting blade.

Before dismantling the generator, you must disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

To remove the generator you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Remove the right front wheel from the vehicle.
2. Securely secure the car on a jack and additional supports.
3. Climb under the car on the right side and find the generator housing.
4. Loosen, but do not completely unscrew the housing fixing nut.
5. Loosen, but do not completely unscrew the nut on the bracket stud.
6. To loosen the V-belt, slightly move the generator housing.
7. Disconnect the power cable going to the generator.
8. Disconnect all wires and contact connections.
9. Remove the fixing nuts, pull the generator towards you and remove it from the studs.

Video: dismantling the VAZ 2101 generator

Stage two: disassembling the generator

The removed generator should be wiped with a soft cloth, removing the main layer of dirt. To disassemble the device you will need:

• open-end and ring wrenches 19;
• extension;
• heads for 8 and 10;
• hammer.

Before disassembling the generator, it is best to prepare small containers for storing washers, screws and bolts. Because there are a lot of small details in the design of the generator, and in order to understand them later, it is better to classify the elements in advance.

Disassembling the VAZ 2101 generator is quite simple

The disassembly itself is carried out in the following order:

1. Unscrew the four nuts on the back cover of the generator.
2. The nuts securing the pulley to the body are unscrewed.
3. The pulley is removed.
4. The housing is divided into two parts (one will contain the stator, the other will contain the rotor).
5. The winding is removed from the part with the stator.
6. The shaft with bearings will be pulled out from the part with the rotor.

Further disassembly involves pressing out the bearings.

Video: disassembling the VAZ 2101 generator

Third stage: generator troubleshooting

At the troubleshooting stage, faults of individual generator elements are identified and eliminated. In this case, some of the work can be performed at the disassembly stage. Particular attention should be paid to:

• signs of wear on the surfaces of parts;
• the appearance of carbon deposits on wires and contacts;
• the presence of dirt and working fluids inside the generator housing;
• cracks, nicks and other mechanical damage to parts.

All damaged and worn elements must be replaced with new ones.

When troubleshooting, you do not need to pay attention to the generator housing: after several years of service, it may have an unsightly appearance, but at the same time it will protect the insides of the device well.

Stage four: generator repair

The difficulty of repairing the G-221 generator is that it is difficult to find spare parts for it. If bearings can still be purchased on the Internet, then choosing a suitable winding or rectifier will be very difficult.

Video: repair of VAZ 2101 generator

"Kopeyka" left the factory assembly line in 1970. Mass production ended in 1983. Since Soviet times, AvtoVAZ has not produced spare parts for repairing the rare model.

Therefore, the list of situations for repairing a VAZ 2101 generator is very limited. So, if bearings jam or brushes wear out, replacement elements can be easily found in car dealerships.

VAZ 2107 gearbox repair | Topic author: Sharlet

Removing the rear axle gearbox If you need to remove the rear axle gearbox yourself at home, but don’t understand how to do it, then this is for you.

The gearbox is removed from the axle to be replaced with a new one, otherwise during repairs, usually it is removed when it begins to scream or hum, but it may not be due to a breakdown of the gearbox gear, cone, replacement of the satellite gears, or bearings. In fact, the design of the rear axle is identical for all cars, so the removal principle is not the same, but there may be small aspects. How to remove the generator

VAZ 2107. How to replace the rear shock absorbers in a VAZ 2107 2105 2106. When removing the generator, you can do without an inspection hole How.
I’ll show you an example of removing the rear axle gearbox on a VAZ-2103, although our client still has VAZs from 2101 to 2107
that have the same axle, you will like the difference more exclusively in the gearbox, as annoying as it may sound, there is an option to install any VAZ gearbox on any Zhiguli, one the gearbox is designed for traction, and the other for speed. Enough with the introduction, let’s move on to removing the gearbox from the bridge, I will remove the gearbox without a pit. First, put stones or bricks under the front wheels so that the car does not accidentally roll. We jack up the rear wheels to such a height that it is comfortable to crawl up to the rear axle, it is better to secure the jack with a block of wood, or it is also called a stack of bricks. insurance.

If you set a goal to remove

the gearbox from the axle must first be removed from the wheels, not the axle shafts. As annoying as it may sound, while removing the axle shaft you need to get to it, not when the wheel has been removed, remove the brake drum, unscrew the guide pins from the drum, do not remove the drum. how to remove a generator from a classic VAZ car. How to remove a VAZ 2101-2107 generator. How to remove the front bumper on a VAZ 2114, 2113, 2115? But it is very difficult to remove the brake drum; often it sits very tightly on the axle shaft; it’s not for nothing that you can’t tear it off; some people start hitting the edge of the brake drum with a hammer, breaking the edges. There are special threads on the drum (as annoying as it may sound, they are often torn off, in other words, they are torn off during removal) on which the bolts are screwed in and they squeeze the brake drum out of the axle shaft. If the thread is not, as it is also called, torn, there is a method to remove the drum from the axle shaft. Because the rear wheels are removed, unscrew the guide bolts from the drum and leave on the other one, just in case, tighten one wheel bolt for greater rigidity. Start the car, engage first gear, not with a little gas, press the brake, the drum that is without guide bolts will break off. HOW TO REMOVE THE BUMPER. VAZ 2114 How to remove the box of a VAZ 2101 without a pit Then unscrew the twisted drum, do not twist the torn one, do not tear off the 2nd drum using this method.

The brake drums have been removed, we remove the brake pads, they are easy to remove, only hard springs, don’t remove the springs, there is an option to remove the upper spring with pliers, and the lower one, place a screwdriver on top of the hook of the spring, do not knock it down. How to remove a VAZ 2107 generator with your own hands. Just remember right away how the spacer was positioned under the upper spring, so as not to pore over it later.

The brake pads have been removed, we begin to remove the axle shaft, the arrow in the photo shows which nuts need to be unscrewed, unscrew them, there are 4 of them in a circle.

Alternator belt VAZ 2101

In classic VAZ models, the generator is driven by a V-belt 944 mm long. On a VAZ 2101 you can also install a belt with a length of 930 mm, but other options are no longer suitable.

The factory equipment of the generator involves the use of a belt 2101–1308020 with a smooth surface and dimensions 10x8x944 mm.

The old-style VAZ 2101 generator belt has a smooth surface

The alternator belt is located in the front of the car and connects three pulleys at once:

• generator pulley;
• water pump pulley;
• crankshaft pulley.

How to properly tension the alternator belt

When replacing the alternator belt, it is extremely important to tension it correctly. Any deviation from the norm will affect the operation of VAZ 2101 electrical appliances.

To tighten the VAZ 2101 generator belt, use a crowbar, spatula or thick screwdriver

Reasons for replacing the alternator belt are:

• the appearance of cracks and signs of severe wear on the belt;
• belt break;
• manufacturing defects.

To replace the belt you will need:

• mounting spatula (or metal crowbar);
• wrenches 17 and 19.

The work is performed in the following order:

1. Reinstall the generator by tightening the two mounting nuts halfway. The nuts must be tightened until the stroke of the generator housing exceeds 2 cm.
2. Insert a pry bar or pry bar between the generator housing and the water pump housing.
3. Place the belt on the pulleys.
4. Without releasing pressure from the pry bar, tighten the strap.
5. Tighten the top nut securing the generator.
6. Check the belt tension. It should not be too tight or, conversely, sagging.
7. Tighten the bottom nut.

Video: tensioning the VAZ 2101 alternator belt

To make sure that the belt has a working degree of tension, it is necessary to sell its free space with your finger after completing the work. The rubber should yield no more than 1.5 centimeters.

Thus, even an inexperienced car enthusiast can independently diagnose the malfunction, repair and replace the VAZ 2101 generator. This does not require any special skills or exclusive tools. However, you should not overestimate your strength either. It must be remembered that a generator is an electrical device, and in the event of an error, the consequences for the machine can be quite serious.

How to remove the generator

To carry out dismantling you will need the following tools:

1. Wrenches for 10, 13 and 17.
2. Mounting blade.
3. Penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.

Initially, disconnect the battery and disconnect the wires from the generator. It is advisable to carry out all work with the front part of the car slightly raised or on an inspection hole or overpass. Before removing the generator, you need to loosen the drive belt. To do this, completely unscrew the nut from the upper stud securing the housing to the engine block using a 17mm wrench. There shouldn't be any problems with it.

The generator housing must be moved towards the block, after which you remove the belt. It will be problematic to loosen the lower mounting bolt. It is close to the ground, dust, dirt, and water often fall on it. Therefore, treat the threaded connection with penetrating lubricant in advance.

Breakdowns and repairs

If you suspect that the generator on the VAZ 2101 is not working, check it yourself. It's done like this.

1. Start the engine.
2. Open the hood.
3. Pull out the choke adjustment knob, bringing the engine speed to 1200–1300 rpm.
4. Remove the positive terminal from the battery. If the engine stalls, the unit is faulty.

The fact that the engine stalls indicates that it is running only on battery power. If you notice a malfunction immediately after it occurs, and your battery is freshly charged, you can drive a dozen or two kilometers until the battery loses power. This will allow you to get to your garage or the nearest service center. But don't try to go far. You may end up in the middle of the road and have to ask for a tow or call a tow truck.

Possibility of modification of the device and methods used

The standard generator of your VAZ 2101 does not require modification. Changing its design does not lead to an increase in maximum speed, increase in torque, or increase in efficiency. But this doesn’t stop true auto-tuning fans. In their quest to disassemble and remake everything in the car that is possible and most of what is not, they get to the VAZ 2101 generator.

Typically the unit is modified to improve one or both of the following parameters:

• maximum current;
• maximum voltage.

An increase in these indicators does not lead to an improvement in the functioning of the car. Moreover, operation of the VAZ-2101 electrical system at increased current and voltage carries certain risks. Overloaded wiring can heat up, melt and even catch fire. At increased voltage, the battery, which is not designed for such a load, will fail. But that doesn't stop real fans. And they begin to improve it. To be fair, it must be said that increasing the parameters of the VAZ 2101 generator by 10–15% usually gets away with it.

To increase the output of the generator, it is necessary to change the four-diode control unit to an eight-diode one, which has increased parameters. The difficulty is that the eight-diode bridge provides three connection points, while the standard unit has two. This means that you have to organize an additional connection point.

The sequence of work on a generator removed from the vehicle and disassembled is as follows.

1. In the place where the output contact is soldered to the stator winding, remove the insulation section.
2. Solder an additional contact. Make sure that the thickness of the wire of the new contact matches the diameter of the old wire.
3. Insulate the soldering area with heat-shrinkable polymer tube of a suitable diameter.

After assembling the VAZ 2101 generator, connect the new eight-diode bridge through three contacts of the modernized configuration. Reinstall the unit. If you don’t want to do this, but want to increase productivity, you can simply replace the standard generator of your VAZ 2101 with a version from the VAZ 2107 or VAZ 2110 model. The unit from the “seven” fits into the standard mounting location, but for the “ten” you will have to purchase or make it yourself a special spacer for its fastening, because the standard unit is fixed on one bracket, and the VAZ 2110 generator uses two. The maximum current of the original unit is 55 amperes, and that of the VAZ 2110 generator is 80 amperes. Feel the difference.

The VAZ 2101 model generator is considered a successful, unpretentious unit. It was also used on the VAZ 2102 and VAZ 2103. If you take care of the device, ensure the correct tension of the drive belt, change the brushes on time, it will faithfully serve for many years.

Source

Optimizing device performance

There is an opinion among drivers that tuning the voltage regulator improves the driving performance of the car. First of all, we are talking about large speed ranges without compromising the equipment of the machine. There is some truth in such a statement, because the charging relay is really responsible for correcting all voltage surges at changing speeds. But it will not be possible to significantly increase the indicator.

In addition to replacing the generator, you will need to update the wiring, making it resistant to heavy loads.

Following this, the rotor for charging the VAZ 2106 will require an update. That is why it is recommended to evaluate the financial capabilities and feasibility of such updates.

Voltage drops in the vehicle network are regulated by a special relay. The slightest deviations in its operation negatively affect the running parameters of the machine as a whole. In this regard, drivers are recommended to regularly carry out preventive inspections.

Complete disassembly of generator 37.3701

Let's analyze the 37.3701 generator removed from the engine, taking into account some of the features of its disassembly. This generator is installed on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars of early years of production. But it is completely interchangeable with the later generator 9402.3701 and similar ones. Its disassembly is not particularly difficult and requires a minimum of tools and a minimum of skills in repairing such devices. — Phillips and slotted screwdrivers — Socket wrenches (heads, socket wrenches) 8 mm, 10 mm, 19 mm

Disassembly procedure for generator 37.3701

Removing the voltage regulator

On the 37.3701 generator it is combined into a single unit with brushes (although until 1996 these were two different parts). First, disconnect the tip of the diode bridge wire from the voltage regulator. To remove the regulator, unscrew the two screws securing it with a screwdriver and remove it from the hole in the rear part (cover) of the generator.

Removing the generator voltage regulator 37.3701

Removing the generator pulley

To do this, we stop it from turning with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut securing it with a 19 mm spanner. The tightening torque is large, so it is better to use a wrench with a long handle.

Removing generator pulley 37.3701 for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Then we remove the following parts: nut, washer, pulley with impeller, segment key.

Removing the capacitor

To do this, use a 10 mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing its wire from terminal “30” of the generator. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the capacitor to the rear half of the generator and remove it.

Separate the halves of the generator housing

First, we mark their relative positions (by placing marks on both parts). Using a 10 mm wrench (it’s more convenient to use a socket or socket wrench), unscrew the four nuts of the coupling bolts (there are engraving washers under the nuts).

Pull out the bolts. Remove the front part of the generator. Remove the rotor from the back of the generator. If it cannot be removed, you can tap it with a soft metal drift through the window under the voltage regulator, or by screwing a nut onto the thread of the shaft and holding it in a vice, with a sharp upward movement, pull the back cover into the shaft. The bearing remains on the rotor shaft. If necessary, we dismantle it with a puller and press on a new one (See “Replacing generator bearings”).

Remove the bearing from the front of the generator

We carry out this operation if it is necessary to replace the front bearing of the generator. Using an 8 mm wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the front bearing protection plate. Let's take it off.

With a light blow of a hammer on the end of the rotor shaft, we knock it out together with the front bearing from the front cover of the generator. Remove the rear protective plate with screws and spacer ring from the shaft.

In another case, you can more carefully use a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter to knock out the old bearing along with the shaft. We pry the bearing from different sides with a mounting tool and move it from the rotor shaft with sharp movements (you can use a puller).

Disconnect the stator

Using an 8 mm wrench (it’s more convenient to use a socket or socket wrench), unscrew the three nuts securing the stator terminals to the diode bridge. We remove it from the back cover of the generator by prying it with a slotted screwdriver or hitting it with a hammer.

Removing the diode bridge (rectifier bridge)

We remove the diode bridge from the back cover of the generator. We have already unscrewed the nuts that secure it, removing the stator. Now we remove the screws (3 pieces) with insulators from the back cover of the generator. We remove the contact bolt from the diode bridge.

That's it, generator 37.3701 of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars is completely disassembled. How to put everything back together, see “Assembling generator 37.3701 after complete disassembly.”

Notes and additions

Removing the generator from the engine is described in detail in the article: “Removing the generator from the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars.”

More articles on generators for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Required Tools

To replace and repair the VAZ 2101 generator, tools are required, the list of which is given below.

Table - List of necessary tools for replacing the generator

Some of the work on replacing the generator requires access from the bottom of the VAZ 2101. Therefore, it is advisable to have an inspection hole or overpass available.

What happens if you mix up the battery terminals?

In my case, the first thing I saw was that the wires just started smoking. Of course, the starting current from the battery that I added was even higher than it should generally be on a battery installed on such a car. But of course, the main reason that the smoke came out was simply that I threw a plus onto a minus, and a minus onto a plus. It's a stupid situation, but that's how it all turned out.

What happened next? A second later, I realized that I was stupid and threw off the terminals, putting the old battery in place. But when I turned the ignition key, I saw that, along with the oil pressure lamp, the battery charging lamp no longer came on. This was the first thing that puzzled me. Then I checked the fuse - on Kopeechka it is the 10th from the driver's door and the outermost one in the row. My fuse turned out to be normal - there were no signs of burning, just in case I replaced it, but it did not lead to anything. Then I took out the dashboard, pulled out the light bulb that goes to the charging lamp - visually it was normal, but I changed that too - nothing changed) - after turning the ignition key, the lamp still did not light up.

Immediately after that, I went and bought a new chocolate bar, screwed it to the fender and connected the wires, turned the key and again nothing (. In addition to this, already near the car market, I simply could not start on the new battery, which was purchased only the day before yesterday from the described day. Then I realized that, in addition to the fact that the battery charging lamp was not on, the battery itself was not charging. In general, the realization gradually came that there was a problem with the generator itself...