If the steering wheel of a VAZ 2114 shakes when braking, this eloquently indicates the presence of vibration in the car. The reasons why this vibration occurs are very different. We will talk about some of them below. Steering wheel wobble indicates a problem in one or more mechanisms. And if the cause of this vibration is not found in a timely manner and it is not eliminated, then not only will the vibrating unit or part of the car wear out and fail. Vibration will also negatively affect other systems where it is felt.
How to check brake discs for runout?
the device for measuring runout is fixed 5 mm from the brake disc. ... If the discs are significantly worn out, this will be indicated by the following signs:
- jerky braking;
- grinding;
- creak;
- other unusual sounds;
- beating on the steering wheel;
- beating in the gas pedal;
- blocking the brake system when you press the brake pedal.
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19.09.2019
Pad wear
During the operation of the vehicle and the friction of the pads on the brake discs, the pads decrease in size, the free space between the pad and the disc increases, which leads to vibration of the mechanism and beating of the steering wheel. First, the friction linings on the pads wear out. Worn brake pads are replaced in pairs. They should not be allowed to stand with varying degrees of wear and tear. If the pads are not changed in a timely manner, they can wear out to such an extent that they no longer cope with their task and the car’s brakes will fail.
Checking the ignition system
In some cases, the car starts to jerk due to some kind of malfunction in the ignition system. As a rule, the problem can be caused by untimely ignition of the fuel mixture. In rare cases, this is due to a weak spark from the spark plug, which in turn is due to low voltage supplied.
Why does the VAZ-2114 jerk when driving? To do this, during diagnostics it is necessary to check:
- First of all, the performance of the ignition coil.
- Serviceability of spark plugs (it is worth noting that if these elements malfunction, they are replaced as a complete set!).
- Pay attention to the condition of high-voltage wires.
- Are there any problems with the distributor (ignition distributor).
- Condition of the camshaft and crankshaft sensors.
And if the problem is the spark plug, then this is a fairly common and mild case. This type of breakdown is harmless and even a beginner can cope with it. Sometimes the problem may be caused by an incorrect gap between the spark plug contacts, which does not meet established standards.
But if the camshaft position sensor is to blame, then you won’t be able to start the engine at all. In this case, qualified assistance from specialists is necessary.
Problem with brakes: the steering wheel hits when braking on a VAZ 2110
A couple of thousand ago I noticed a small yeast on the steering wheel when braking from high speed (80 and above) at the very beginning of braking. those. if you immediately settle the car down decently, then there is no yeast, but if you press the pedal a little, there is…. Today my buddy and I took it apart - the pads are beautiful, the discs are normal, the cylinders don't jam. The only thing is that the guides on the calipers are a little loose. Let's go to the store, the new ones still have some play in my caliper. and in the new caliper in the store there is also play, it’s just a little less. Those. the guides do not fit tightly structurally... what else could be the reason. :scratch_one-s_head
Disks. What does normal mean?
This means that they are not crooked and wear is normal. I know what crooked discs are - when braking, it hits the pedal and brakes as if in jerks - but I just have a small yeast!
Yes, and it all started somehow abruptly. and the discs usually gradually begin to fade
crooked rims - when braking it hits the pedal
they send the drums into the steering wheel, they send them into the pedal :big_boss
romex
, check the front wheel balancing
Yesterday I changed my shoes for the summer, had the wheels balanced, but it didn’t help!
I noticed a small yeast on the steering wheel when braking from high speed (80 and above) at the very beginning of braking.
I had a similar experience. There is also a slight vibration at a speed of 80. As you can see, it’s not the brakes. do: chassis diagnostics + wheel alignment, I changed the ball joint, on the left side
romex
, before going to the service station, do this: remove the front wheel, turn it clockwise half a turn, and carefully screw the wheel correctly, i.e. now screw the bolts into the other holes, repeat on the other side, do it yourself
I have yeast only at the moment of braking. There is no vibration when driving. I am familiar with vibration on the steering wheel at 100-110 km due to wheel imbalance - this is not it!
Yesterday we changed two guides on the calipers, removed the wheels and screwed them on according to the rules - nothing has changed!
here is my correspondence with AvtoVAZ JSC
The feedback system of JSC AVTOVAZ received a question from you:
04/10/11 “Hello! car VAZ 21114. At 100,000 km, a problem arose with the brakes - when you press the brake pedal a little, there is a slight vibration (tremor) on the steering wheel. it doesn't respond to the pedal. If you press the pedal hard, there is no shaking. I was guilty of the tension pins in the lower caliper bracket - they were a little loose in the hole, but after inspecting a new caliper with tensioners in the store I saw the same picture. Should there be play in the caliper guides and what is the reason for the shaking on the steering wheel? “
04/10/11 “Good afternoon, Andrey! The cause of vibration may be deformation of the brake discs. Deformation occurs when water gets on heated brake discs. “Department for analyzing the quality of cars in operation. Leading process engineer. Nikolai Nikolaevich Gapchenko
Yeah…. ATE rolled 100 thousand... BRAMBO 35k I wonder how long does ALNAS last? I would like to note that BRAMBO and ALNAS were purchased in Ukraine....
And on topic... There was never any vibration. But there was a pull to the side at the start, and this sign determined an early replacement of the brake discs...
Originally, no one determined by the phases of the moon? :wizard What does “pulling to the side at start” have to do with the brakes? :snoozer_10: :big_boss
What does “pull to the side at start” have to do with the brakes?
Yes, everything is the same... It's time for the disks to go to the landfill! And behind the wheels and Amikam. Determine yours by the moon! Yes…. and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take other people’s opinions into account….
Yes…. and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take other people’s opinions into account….
in order to take into account someone else's opinion, it must be correct: chitay_manual
and not heresy otherwise nefik to climb into the mechanism :big_boss :punish let him work in peace
damn :zloy it’s necessary to change the brake discs because they pull away during acceleration
scribe :censored :censored :censored
Okhvitalny FAK AVTOVAZ
Why do “chisels” and “tens” move to the right when accelerating? Articles > Chassis
Question. Why do the “chisels” and “tens” move to the right during acceleration? Explain the physics of the phenomenon.
Answer. The CV joint then transmits constant torque - that’s why it is a CV joint. But if he transmits it at an angle, then another effect appears.
The balls that transmit torque are located in the bisecting plane of the CV joint. In fact, the transmission of moment occurs by a pair of forces, which creates a moment tending to turn the steered wheel (see figure) on shoulder L. The magnitude of these moments on the left and right is the same, if the angles in the outer CV joints are the same - there is no slip. If the axle shafts are of different lengths and the differential axis is parallel to the road (as on 2108 and 2110), then the turning moment on the left (from the side of the short axle shaft) is greater than on the right. The angles of rotation of the wheels arising due to some compliance of the steering drive are also different (more on the left) -> pull to the right. When starting from a standstill, everything is aggravated by the fact that the amount of torque is large and the front part of the car hangs out, increasing the difference in angles in the outer CV joints -> the slip becomes noticeable. There are several ways to combat this phenomenon. The most radical is the axle shafts of the same length, with the same inclination. To implement this for a transversely mounted engine, it is necessary to install an intermediate shaft on the side of the long axle shaft (example - VAZ-21124-07). The solution is quite expensive. It’s cheaper to tilt the power unit to the left and, if necessary, turn it in plan to align the angles in the CV joint, at least statically (example - VAZ-21106). Cheaper, but not radically so. Another method, as a patch, was used, for example, on a Ford Escort. The springs on the right side were installed longer than on the left, then in a static position the car along with the power unit became skewed to the left -> the angles in the outer CV joints were aligned.
At VAZ this topic periodically flares up and then fades away again. At one time, a large amount of research was carried out. For example, the “big and small effect” was identified - the intensity of the pull depends on the weight of the driver (if the mother-in-law is sitting on the passenger seat, then also on her weight. The condition of the supports of the power unit also affects - especially on 2108-09, due to the peculiarities of the location of the supports compared to 2110.
Valerij Lata Sent by S. Kulaga, DTR of AVTOVAZ OJSC
Yura: I've had the stock ones run 100 thousand without any questions - it just started right now. And it’s not a fact that there are discs! :crazy: Makar: you're right - the withdrawal at the start has nothing to do with the discs. As far as I know, this is a design feature - the left axle axis is shorter than the right one - that’s all physics. although you quickly get used to it! The difference is especially noticeable after rear-wheel drive. I switched from seven - it was terrible at first, but now I don’t notice it anymore. It’s just that the Yura is still a racer, firstly, it starts with a row - you have to hold the steering wheel with a death grip, and secondly, there is also paranoia (sorry) - it changes everything ahead of time! :hehe :hehe :hehe
that Jurassic: I changed the balls at 70 thousand - the original ones went exactly the same. I installed how you love imports with the beautiful name Lömförder - I changed one after 30 thousand. I put on INA-type Germanium videos - after 20 thousand they started singing... so it’s all a gamble and a show off; we need to use something that actually works in practice. By the way, the SS-20 racks are still alive - 80 thousand out of the bush...
I have yeast only at the moment of braking. There is no vibration when driving. I am familiar with vibration on the steering wheel at 100-110 km due to wheel imbalance - this is not it!
a year and a half ago: my uncle got behind the wheel, and he remarked to me that when braking at a speed of about 80, a slight tremor appears in the steering wheel, I had already said goodbye to the warranty according to the records, I only did the balancing of the front wheels
my opinion: you need to look in the wheel + tire
After replacing the disks, which were quite worn out, everything fell into place... And acceleration and braking... So, you can post at least a dozen articles, but personal experience is personal experience...
Snow and dirt in the wheel
The first and most common reason is snow freezing or dirt sticking to the inside of the wheel rim. This usually happens in winter. Due to lumps of snow and dirt stuck to the rim, wheel imbalance occurs, which causes quite strong vibration not only in the steering wheel, but throughout the entire body. The help of specialists is not required here; it is enough to find an overpass and remove everything that is unnecessary from the disks using a metal brush. You can also remove each wheel separately and perform the same operation, as you wish. The only point that cannot be missed is that when removing with a brush or something else, do not dismantle the balancing weights, which are very often glued to the inside of alloy wheels, so that you do not have to go to a tire shop and re-balance.
Suspension faults
Ball joints are devices related to the suspension that support the vertical position of the front wheels. These supports are subject to rapid wear, which depends on the vehicle's driving technique and the quality of the roads. Vibration of the steering wheel is one of the signs of wear on the ball joints. The picture shows the ball joint of the wheel.
Faulty CV joints not only make noise and crunch, but also provoke unnecessary vibration. A crunch will indicate that the problem is with the grenades. Shock absorber struts are designed to dampen any vibrations and beating. If the racks are faulty, they will not do their job.
Steering wheel wobble also occurs in the steering mechanism itself. The following are malfunctions of the steering mechanism that cause the steering wheel to wobble:
- faulty steering tips, play in the steering rack;
- worn steering gear bearings;
- the steering shaft (steering cardan) has exhausted its service life and is out of order.
Special diagnostic equipment in a car service center will help you find the true reason why the steering wheel shakes at speed.
Manifestation of the problem
As a rule, if the car jerks, this is usually due to various circumstances. Every driver should understand that any non-standard situations do not appear out of nowhere; this may be due to a malfunction of a particular system. In turn, this is usually due to wear and tear on vehicle components. And if you lose sight of this, sooner or later, it can result in serious and costly repairs.
As for when the problem begins to manifest itself, vehicle jerking can be noticed in the following cases:
- Only when the car starts moving.
- When the engine is running at low speed.
- During a sharp increase in speed.
- When the car is moving at high crankshaft speeds.
- In any mode of vehicle movement, which is manifested by periodic jolts at different times.
But what exactly can cause a vehicle to behave this way? When a VAZ-2114 jerks while driving, there may be several reasons for this, and quite a few. In fact, this is what we will discuss further.
Why does the steering wheel shake? 7 Main Causes of Steering Wheel Vibration
Care and attention to the technical condition of the car is our direct responsibility. And it doesn’t matter how we feel about it, whether it’s a “workhorse” for us, a means of transportation or a luxury item. First of all, its serviceability is our safety.
And one of the reasons to pay serious attention to your car is the vibration of the steering wheel when driving, or, as experienced drivers say, the beating of the steering wheel. It is expressed in completely different ways and at different speeds, for some at 30 km/h, and for others at 70 km/h. It doesn't really matter. What matters is the fact that there is something wrong with the mechanical part of the car. Let's look together at the seven main causes of this vibration and how to eliminate them. And I’ll tell you about another interesting reason, which is rare, at the end.
Wheel imbalance
Wheels, like tires, although they have an ideal appearance, and even on rolling machines their shape is absolutely ideal, unfortunately, they have different densities of the material from which they are made. For example, the density of the alloy in the disk may differ in different places, which in turn will add or decrease weight in this place. The same is true with tires. Thus, when assembling the wheel, we get an imbalance caused by different weights in different places of the wheel as it rotates. Which in turn will lead to vibration in the steering wheel at speeds of approximately 80 km/h. This can be corrected by balancing the wheels at a tire shop.
Unreliable wheel mounts
This problem is also easy to fix and diagnose. This is a simple but very dangerous reason. The fastenings can be loosened even on one wheel, and this is enough to cause shaking. If the problem is not resolved in time, emergency situations may occur. If the wheel falls off while driving, the repair will be quite expensive - you will have to replace the disc and hub, and the brake disc.
The symptoms in this case are very similar to vibrations due to tires or bent wheels. But there is a cyclical pattern here, although not at all speeds.
Air filter?
As is known, the formation of an engine working mixture requires a certain amount of air in which oxygen is present. And without it, the combustion process itself is impossible. In a car, before entering the working chamber, the air passes through the labyrinths of the filter and only after that it combines with the fuel mixture, forming just the working composition.
However, if this element is contaminated, the car may also begin to jerk while driving or when starting off. As a result, the flow decreases significantly and there is simply no longer enough air in the required quantity. This risks the working mixture becoming rich in fuel and burning incorrectly.
As a result of this, the VAZ-2114 jerks when driving, and in some cases there may be misfires.
Driving in a straight line at low speeds
There are also reasons for steering wheel beating that manifest themselves exclusively when driving at low and medium speeds. Again, we should not exclude the defects already discussed, just like those described below in other sections.
Reason #10. Disc deformation
A fairly common cause of steering wheel wobble at low and medium speeds. Most likely, even novice drivers do not need to explain in detail what deformation is and where it comes from. With our famous roads this is almost a “number uno” problem.
Finding the cause is simple and involves a visual inspection of the wheel rims. Particular attention is paid to those places where the tire “sits” on the rim. This place is called the rim of the wheel, and it is this place that is the first to suffer from hitting potholes and other road irregularities. We must also not forget that a wheel rim, no matter how strange it may sound, has two sides - outer and inner. So, the inner side is often forgotten, never looking at it. Meanwhile, according to the law of meanness, deformations, which are a common cause of steering wheel beating, are located exactly there.
Repair here is simple and relatively inexpensive, if the disk is not in the trash. A common procedure called rolling returns the wheels to a perfect circle shape, and the vibrations may well disappear completely. Of course, it will be a little more difficult and more expensive for those who have cast or forged wheels. Even if these are subject to rolling, it is done with difficulty, for which specialists want appropriate payment. There are never any problems with steel discs, unless they burst.
When preparing this material, information was found on the Internet that stamped steel disks are sometimes even leveled to perfection using a sledgehammer. Who knows, maybe we have such daredevil blacksmiths, but in the (subjective) opinion of the author, trusting such craftsmen with the wheels of your car is a bad idea...
Reason #11. Unadjusted camber and toe
Here, too, apparently, nothing special needs to be explained. Suffice it to say that wheels “looking” in different directions is a sure cause of steering wheel vibration. The problem appears more often during acceleration and when driving at low speeds. When a significant speed is reached, it usually disappears temporarily.
Diagnosis is simple if the case is very advanced. Crooked wheels are visible to the naked eye. In any case, even if the deviation is not visible without equipment, it will not be possible to adjust the camber and toe without them. It doesn't work by eye here. Therefore, if you have any suspicions about this, or simply haven’t had your camber and toe-in adjustments done for a long time, contact the appropriate service. The procedure is not so expensive that you would waste money on performing it at least twice a year.
Lack of balancing
Wheel balancing is performed when it is necessary to align the mass of the wheel to the center. The fact is that the rubber density in different parts of the wheel is not the same, and this leads to a shift in the center of gravity of the wheels. This causes vibration, rapid and uneven wear of rubber, and driving a vibrating car is not very comfortable. Wheel imbalance is one of the reasons for the VAZ 2114 steering wheel to wobble. There is only one solution to the problem - go to a tire shop for balancing.
Supply system
As a rule, the main reason that the VAZ-2114 car jerks when driving is due to a malfunction of the power system.
Usually, experienced car enthusiasts and auto mechanics try to look for the cause here first, and they will be right. While the vehicle is starting to move, insufficient fuel may be supplied to the cylinders. This leads to the development of low power, which is not enough for full operation of the transmission.
In other words, if there is an uneven supply of the fuel-air mixture in the power unit, then it will simply not ignite well. In turn, because of this, the timing of the explosion is disrupted, and the heart of the car begins to malfunction. The driver feels this, which causes a lot of discomfort while driving. What can be done:
- Check the functionality of the hall sensor.
- Pay attention to the position of the throttle valve.
- The condition of the injectors also deserves attention.
In addition, to understand the reason why the VAZ-2114 injector twitches when driving, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of each element of the fuel system. Moreover, regardless of the type of power unit. As experts note, due to depressurization of the pipes, the engine experiences fuel starvation. This is manifested by failures in engine operation. Therefore, it is better not to neglect a thorough check of the pipes!
Defective tires
This drawback occurs quite often, especially when car owners buy used tires rather than new ones. Visually hidden defects are difficult to detect; they do not make themselves felt immediately. Tires also become deformed during operation due to collisions with curbs, stones, and other irregularities. Bumps and breaks form on the tire, which are not always noticeable from the outside, but are very noticeable when driving. What to do with defective and damaged tires? Definitely change them. Less common is disc defects that can cause runout.
A wobbly steering wheel may be caused by one or more wheels being loose. A loose fastening can cause the bolts to come loose and the wheel to fall off. This situation is a dangerous emergency on the road. Therefore, if you feel vibration, do not be lazy, but take the key and check the bolts on the wheels. Body vibration and steering wheel beating are also affected by different tire pressures.
Wrong wheel alignment
Wheel alignment is another important parameter that is set by adjusting the wheel position. Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical. The fact is that the wheels are installed on the car not strictly parallel to the vertical, but at a slight angle, which is not always noticeable to the average person. Toe-in, or toe-in, is the angle between the plane of rotation and the direction of movement of the car. Wheel alignment affects vehicle stability on the road, cornering, and the rate of tire wear. If this parameter is adjusted incorrectly, the steering wheel may wobble.
