Why does the steering wheel bite on Kalina and how to fix it; CAR WORKSHOP

The problem of jamming EMUR (also known as EPS - electric power steering) is familiar to many Kalinovods; this malfunction can be considered a disease of all Kalinas, unfortunately. However, our man would not be ours if he had not found a solution to this problem.

In this article I want to talk about how to fix the problem of the Lada Kalina steering wheel biting quickly and inexpensively, at home, without the need to replace the EUR.

As you understand, the problem is more than serious. There are a lot of threads on thematic forums online in which owners share sad reviews about how at one fine moment while driving the steering wheel simply jammed and stopped rotating. Everyone has their own outcome, some managed to avoid an accident, some did not, in general there is a problem and it needs to be solved immediately.

In order to eliminate the steering wheel of the EUR Lada Kalina from biting, you need to have: several keys, a Phillips screwdriver, as well as a syringe and lubricant (“Litol” or alternative).

Causes of EUR failure

Why does the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina not work, turns off and refuses to work, for what reasons does the steering wheel with power steering knock, jam, bite or squeak? To repair the system yourself, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what causes precede the breakdown. Most often, amplifier failure occurs due to a breakdown of the unit itself and failure of the amplifier. Faults in this plan are resolved by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact fault.

As practice shows, often the failure of the electric amplifier (failure) is associated with the failure of the speed controller.

• steering wheel wedges,
• flu
• gets tight
• other

Thus, the cruise control sensor ensures that the power steering is turned on and off in different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed begins to increase, the booster automatically turns off, allowing you to drive the car more safely when driving at high speeds.

So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:

1. The cruise control is out of order, or the control unit does not receive, or the signal from it disappears. In this case, the reason could be either a breakdown of the sensor, damaged wiring or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
2. The voltage in the vehicle's on-board network has decreased. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and a non-working generator to the use of inadequate electrical equipment in the car.
3. The permissible number of crankshaft revolutions has been exceeded.
4. Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the cause, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics are required.

Fuse box

The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box; if something doesn’t work, it’s worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard, to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the top part towards you and the latch will open.

Check if the fuse is working, if it fails, replace it. It is very easy to check, check the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing a 50 amp relay to a 30 amp one will also help.

Newer versions of Kalina are equipped with electric amplifiers from Hyundai, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are still thousands of cars with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina yourself. The main thing to remember is that not every amplifier shutdown is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you will have to go to a service center.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to disassemble the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from below.

This means you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

• the blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is a 12 volt power supply;
• red-brown contact - tachometer connection cable;
• the gray contact goes to the automatic speed controller;
• white-pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
• black-yellow contact - diagnostic line;
• the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
• brown contact is grounded;
• empty.

More accurate results will be obtained when checking the amplifier with a scanner. But since such equipment is usually found only at gas stations, you can try to check the operation of the system using a paper clip.

To check you need to do the following:

1. First turn off the ignition.
2. Then, using a paper clip, you need to close contacts numbered 6 and 7 of this plug, but you do not need to disassemble the plug itself.
3. After this, you need to turn on the ignition.
4. After performing these steps, the EUR malfunction indicator located in the dashboard will begin to blink; by the number of blinks, you can determine the system failure (video author - Gosha Vakhromeev).

• one long and one short signal - the electric amplifier is working;
• one long and two short - no engine speed signal;
• one long and three short - failure or lack of power to the torque regulator;
• one long and four short flashes - problems in the operation of the electric motor;
• one long and five short - the steering shaft position regulator has failed;
• one long and six short - the engine rotor position regulator has failed;
• one long and seven short - power problems - too high or very low voltage;
• one long and eight short - the electric power steering control module has failed;
• one long and nine short - failure of the speed controller.

Error codes

s1044 - incorrect sequence of rotor position sensor (RPS)

c1621 - incorrect voltage 5V

s1622 - speed signal circuit malfunction

c1011 - car engine speed signal circuit, no signal - divide the signal from the Hall sensor (or from the standard speedometer through the voltage limiter) by 4 and apply to the speedometer input,

c1022 - error, main output voltage of the torque sensor - the shaft cover may have worn insulation and the green wire in the center is shorted to ground

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, it is necessary to disassemble all steering column switches. Remove the cover from the stand and disassemble the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

1. After removing the switches, you will need to remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel. To do this, you need to click on the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. After completing these steps, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
2. The system bracket is fixed with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
3. Next, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt needs to be unscrewed, but when unscrewing it you will need to secure the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, it will be necessary to release the fasteners, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully disassembled. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important as it will avoid possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause the amplifier to malfunction. When disassembling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the EUR.
4. When the unit is disassembled, it will be necessary to disassemble it and replace faulty elements. Further changes are made in reverse order (video by Murzik Bely).

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a shock in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery, to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. We unscrew the battery holder; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and set aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic holder, there are four more screws under it, they also unscrew.
3. Once this is done, this stand needs to be pushed forward until the platform releases from the air filter housing retaining pad. Subsequently, the platform can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the track itself.
4. In the next step, you will need to get your hand under the railing. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap, this will need to be disassembled, this will allow the wrench to access the adjusting nut.
5. To carry out adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the guide; without it, the adjustment procedure will not work. Using this wrench, you will have to crawl under the car track to install the tool in the correct hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the guide. If it is tightened too tightly, the track will stick when turning, and this, in turn, can affect traffic safety. The angle of adjustment is always different depending on how loose the nut is, but usually the nut is tightened about 30 degrees when doing this type of work. This should be enough for things to go well. Once the setup is complete, you will need to check that this action is correct. That is, you will need to ensure that the steering wheel rotates normally in any position until it stops and there is no knocking. If the hit persists, adjustment continues.

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

What malfunctions threaten the EUR on Kalina and what are the ways to eliminate them?

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Causes of EUR failure

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

Electric power steering connection diagram with icons

Video “Guide to repairing an electric booster in a garage”

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

How and with what to lubricate the amplifier?

Litol can be used as a lubricant, the procedure is as follows:

1. First you need to remove the plastic casing; to do this, unscrew the bolts that secure it. Unscrew with a Phillips screwdriver. It is also advisable to remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel located under the steering wheel.
2. Next, unscrew the two bolts that secure the amplifier itself; for this you will need a 13mm wrench. After this, the column can be released down.
3. We unscrew another bolt, after which you can immediately lubricate it.
4. First, the steering wheel is turned all the way to the left. The lubricant is poured into a 10 cm3 syringe and sprayed into the resulting hole. You must roll all 10 dice.
5. Then the steering wheel is turned to the right all the way - the syringe is again directed into the hole, all the lubricant is sprayed.
6. After this, the steering wheel should be turned to the central position and the hole should be sprayed with lubricant again.
7. Also, the steering wheel must be turned several times in different directions until it stops. The lubrication operation is repeated again.
8. Then all components are assembled in reverse order.

Symptoms

The main signs that it is time to inspect the steering rack are knocking and extraneous sounds. They appear when the steering wheel swings from side to side, when turning or turning the steering wheel sharply, or when driving over uneven surfaces. But sometimes it is not clear from the sound whether it comes from the rack or from the suspension elements. The force required to turn the steering wheel also increases.

To find out for sure that the reason is in the rack, you need to do the following:

• Place the vehicle on a level surface
• Open and lift the hood
• Turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops
• When turning the steering wheel sharply, listen carefully to where the sound is coming from.

Thanks to such simple diagnostics, you can easily determine whether the steering rack is the cause of the extraneous noise.

vendor code

Standard electric power steering VAZ 1118 (Kalina), Granta, Datsun On-Do (Mi-Do), Priora 11186-3450008-02, 1117-3450008-02

Manufacturer: Autoelectronics Kaluga, Russia

Price 20500 rub.

Comments and reviews

Replacing the speed sensor (gasoline level worked - the amplifier turned off - the speedometer did not work) - the amplifier does not work - tell me how to fix it?

Is it possible to go (home) without euros? Car Lada Kalina

Or the EUR is working, which means the Lada Kalina is not working

At a speed of more than 60 km on Kalina, the EUR turns on and moves to the left. And when the car is moving and the steering wheel is turned to the left, the malfunction light stays on all the way.

Kalina 111940, while driving the speedometer stopped showing, the yellow indicator on the “steering wheel” at the bottom right came on, you can hear that the electric booster has stopped working.

Hello Sergey, I changed the thermostat, the electric amplifier failed, can you tell me what could be the reason?

Hello, please tell me, in dry weather the EUR does not work on the Lada Kalina. And when it rains, everything is fine, everything immediately starts working

In the Lada Grant car, when turning the steering wheel all the way, shocks occurred in the opposite direction, especially in the opposite direction. Then, as we moved forward, opposite points began to appear. Korean EUR.

The eur sensor turns on and stops working

Hello, the EUR does not work on Kalina, even if the speedometer works, what is the reason?

hello eur periodically refuses, changed the speed sensor on the viburnum, checked the voltage, a leak to the ground was detected. The battery is old, but we corrected its health (reanimated it), the problem remains, in general, a hundred conversations will help only by replacing the EUR. I wouldn't want to buy such an expensive part, the error is solid yellow

Electric power steering works and doesn't work. Locked down. Outputs: one and two. I. One and seven. I measured the voltage at 13.9, everything seems to be in accordance with what is happening? Lada Kalina

Good evening! please, is it possible to attach the electric power steering to the key in viburnum?

Lada Kalina 11194 EUR stopped working, the tachometer turned off and an error popped up, low signal from the camshaft sensor, rV sensor did not help, dry brains

Kalina 11194, the tachometer stopped working, the euro and control showed a low signal from the camshaft sensor, changing the camshaft sensor did not help. Dry brains

Goodbye! The Kalina car won't start, the controls are on and the EUR sign is connected to the brain? What could be the reasons?

Because viburnum works in less than 30 euros

Good day, Sergey! The reason arose in such a way that on Kalina 2006, the electric power steering began to periodically turn off.

Hello, help with EUR on Kalina

Sometimes the electric power steering on a 2006 Kalina car fails

The Euro light is on, you constantly overload everything fine, after which the Euro lights up again and doesn’t work?

Hi, the reason I was driving this Lada Kalina and it was highlighted that the electric power steering is faulty, I went in and they told me that the sensors that are in the electric power steering are faulty and they said that they are out of repair , but then it started working again, now I’m driving for the second day, it works from time to time. Who doesn’t work

I turned the steering wheel a full turn and the euro went out

Sometimes the EUR on Kalina 1 goes out, but the warning light on the instrument panel does not light up

Hello. The Euro does not work on Kalina and the warning lamp does not light up

Grant's car, door on the left, toe-in didn't help

On Kalina 2006, the electric power steering, car speedometer fails, does the tachometer work? The 14.3-4 generator was working stably and even under load there was error 1602. Changing the dead battery didn’t help either, but there are no errors on the amplifier?

The EUR on the viburnum periodically turns off after starting the engine.

Euro Kalina 1 is buggy, and somehow strange, but when replacing the k4 relay during the day, for some reason I drive smoothly.

The on-board computer shows that there is no power to the power steering.

While driving, the steering wheel lit up with an exclamation mark and the car began to jerk and stopped and would not start.

How to disable EUR on Kalina

The EUR and speedometer of the viburnum do not work, but sometimes they work

While driving, I began to notice a slight bite on the steering wheel. I searched on Google and found very useful information on this topic. I did everything as described in the article and was very pleased with the result. Things to do in 15 minutes, and the result...

Some owners of Kalina cars note poor handling after 50 thousand kilometers. The car begins to “patrol” the road, the steering wheel becomes uninformative and “clogged.” If the tire pressure is correct and the camber angles are checked, you can lubricate EUR Kalina to eliminate these symptoms. Gears of the EUR (electric power steering) Kalina gearbox without lubrication bite each other, jam, resulting in increased loads on the steering wheel. Lubricant is added to the EUR at the factory, but during operation its lubricating properties are lost. By filling the amplifier, you will not only renew it with new lubricant, but simply increase its quantity; it’s no secret that the factory knows how to do this to save money) EUR Kalina, you need to work with your own hands. To do this job you will need to remove 5 bolts from the plastic steering wheel cover. Then unscrew the two front nuts securing the steering column to the body with a 13mm head. The steering wheel together with the holder will lower slightly and access to the bolt, which is located horizontally, will open (shown in the photo with a red arrow). For ease of unscrewing, you can use a cardan and head thirteen. Once the bolt is unscrewed, you can add lubricant to the resulting hole. We will apply the lubricant with a regular medical syringe. It is recommended to put a thin tube on the tip of the syringe, insert the tip of the tube into the hole and, pressing the syringe plunger, add lubricant to the gearbox. When applying lubricant, it is recommended to move the steering wheel to the left or right for better distribution of lubricant over the gears of the power steering gear. To completely fill the electric booster with lubricant, you will need about two syringes. It is best to take imported low-temperature grease containing molybdenum. Reassemble the unit in reverse order

The problem of EMUR jamming (aka EUR - electric power steering) is familiar to many Kalinovodovs; this malfunction can, unfortunately, be considered a disease of all Kalinas. However, our man would not be ours if he had not found a solution to this problem.

In this article I want to talk about how to solve the problem of the Lada Kalina steering wheel biting quickly and cheaply, at home, without the need to replace the EUR.

As you understand, the problem is more than serious. There are many topics on thematic forums online where owners share sad reviews about how, after a good time behind the wheel, the steering wheel simply got stuck and stopped turning. Everyone has their own outcome, some managed to avoid an accident, some did not, in general there is a problem and it needs to be solved immediately.

To get rid of the Lada Kalina EUR steering wheel bite, you need to have: several wrenches, a Phillips screwdriver, as well as a syringe and lubricant (Litol or an alternative).

FakeHeader

Comments 39

oh, this Mando ((in trying to eliminate the knocking, I broke it and bought a Kaluzhsky EUR, which I’m sooooo happy about.

Instead of Eur Mando, Eur Kaluga stands up normally? Do you need to redo anything?

no, you don’t need to alter anything. If there was a Mando, then together with it you snap off its wiring harness and that’s it. What remains is the standard wiring for the Kaluga EUR. I am very pleased with this alteration.

Instead of Eur Mando, Eur Kaluga stands up normally? Do you need to redo anything?

The steering cardan also loves the head, but that’s another story, there are no questions about the EUR. It doesn’t pay attention to itself.

I have the same EUR, Korean. Clicking noises appeared when the steering wheel was turned, or rather not even when turning, but when steering. If you rock it a little from side to side, you get a small click from the steering column, sometimes it goes away. I started sinning on the cardans. I replaced the shaft with a welded SS20, the problem went away for exactly a week, or I didn’t notice it for that week. Now the clicking continues. I want to try to lubricate the EUR; for the first time I learned that it is possible through the lower bolt. I want to know how your EUR currently behaves after lubrication, and what lubricant to lubricate it with. The lithol is thick, maybe something thinner, and how deep do you push the lubricant, are any gears visible through the hole?

To be honest, the ss-20 shaft is bullshit... a friend had enough for a month and the knocking started again... At the moment the engine feels great (ugh ugh ugh) I used liquid moth blue for bearings and rollers, I just had a whole tube of it in the garage, and so you can do anything similar, I think. I pumped in 20 grams of lubricant, simply inserted a syringe without a needle naturally, pressed it and emptied it. I did it in two steps. first 10 grams - I twisted the steering wheel and then the rest and twisted the steering wheel intensively in both directions until it stops. It seems like he told me everything) And I didn’t see the gears. it’s just that this hole is located in such a way that you won’t see anything there... there was still a Kama Sutra there even without it)))

Thank you! There are also doubts about SS20. Still, I drove in silence for a week. It is possible that this is the shaft again. The original one has been preserved, I’ll try to revive it. There is some play, but it is small. If the SS20 gets loose, I’ll try to return it. When I bought it, they swore that there was a one-year warranty, 3 weeks have passed. And there were quite a few beautiful advertisements about this in the box. When I bought it, I looked at it, it seemed like it had caprolon or fluoroplastic bushings instead of bearings. It seems like there’s nothing to knock on. .On the weekend I will try to lubricate the EUR according to your scheme.

Hand it over if they accept. And good luck with the renovation!

Yesterday I removed the SS20 shaft. But there is no reason to return. It is in perfect condition. There are no backlashes. I put it back. I lubricated the EUR according to your diagram. The crunch is gone. I hope he doesn't come back. But while I was working, I didn’t notice how I turned the steering wheel and forgot what position it was in initially. I had to find a middle position. Of course, there was a danger of the internal loop breaking. I picked it at random. I turned the steering wheel left and right 2 turns, it seemed okay.

Do you have a cushioned steering wheel?

Yes, the steering wheel is airbag.

Today I noticed a familiar clicking noise when steering. Added some grease to the EUR. This makes about 30 cubes in total. I think that's enough. I did not notice any changes in work. It's possible that it's the driveshafts clicking, but I'm not sure. I'll try to revive the old shaft by reinforcing it. How do your cardan shafts behave? Don't they knock? Don't they crunch? Is it worth the bother?

I was tormented with the cardan... I installed caprolon and bought new crosspieces. In the end, it’s all crap and a new driveshaft only solves the problem. I got the factory one as a gift, but that’s how people put it

I have the factory one lying around in my barn. There is some play, but it's small. And to hell with it, with the backlash, it wouldn’t bother me. Now my nerves are bad enough, and then there are these sounds. SS-20 is now on the car. Sometimes something clicks, but I'm not sure it's the driveshaft. I was at 3 service stations. Nobody found anything. They say that the sound is coming from the cabin and you just need to “dampen it.” They probably think I'm being picky. I’m thinking of going to the officials - Penza-Auto, ordering the original. And I read about TAYA, it’s all from the same opera, it has the same needle bearings, it starts knocking thousands after 5-10 thousand. I read on the Internet about similar problems, a solution has not yet been found. With all components working properly, extraneous sounds are heard in the form of clicks when the steering is weak. Maybe you should ignore it, but it doesn’t work. I'll dig further.

How to eliminate biting steering wheel of Lada Kalina with your own hands

1. First of all, we remove the protective plastic casing; for this we use a Phillips screwdriver, and with its help we unscrew several screws on the left and right sides.

1. Next, take the key to “13” and unscrew the two bolts that hold the steering column. After unscrewing them, the steering wheel together with the transmission easily lowers, thereby freeing access to the bolt through which we will lubricate our EUR.

1. The photo shows the bolt through which we will “pump” our EUR. This bolt must be unscrewed with a socket wrench.

1. Now we take the prepared syringe, fill it with fat and start lubricating it. Lubricate according to the following scheme: turn the steering wheel to the right, drive in 5 cubes of grease, then put the steering wheel back straight, squeeze the grease into the hole, then turn the steering wheel to the extreme left position and fill the hole with grease again. In general, look at the situation, the fat should be thick and should be filled generously until you notice that the steering wheel has become softer and smoother.

1. After completion, put everything back together in reverse order. We fix the plastic film, start the engine and go check the operation.

The result will definitely surprise you, the steering becomes softer and any hint of sticking disappears, in general everything works as expected. I have all this, I hope this vital trick will save you time and money, and most importantly, eliminate the need to change the EUR assembly.