Timing tension roller stud 2108 repair

Applicability

Brand	Model	Name according to auto catalog	Drawing
VAZ	VAZ-2108	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2110	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2111	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2112	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2115	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2110	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-1118 "Kalina"	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2110	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2115	Hairpin	Engine / Engine
VAZ	VAZ-2114	Hairpin	Engine / Engine

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Replacing the tension roller stud of a VAZ 2109

Good morning! I really need help. I have a VAZ 2114, 8 valve. The tension roller repair pin has fallen out. I ordered a stud with a 10/14 thread. They cut the thread and installed it, but after a couple of days I noticed that the timing belt was sliding towards the engine, and it was being eaten away. Along the way, the thread was cut crookedly, and the stud was barely noticeably shifted towards the headlights. Please tell me what can be done here, except how to change the head. I would be very grateful..Repair pin.

34 comments on “Repair pin. The repair pin of the tension roller has come out”

Maybe it's time for a pump.

It's time to change the pump

It's not like there's no way out. To change the block because of one stud. Find a good craftsman or turner, I think.

Beer can washers for the roller. Look on YouTube about the shrinking belt, there is a lot of information

Friend. This will continue to cause problems. I would advise changing the head. Well, let's face these homemade products, the belt will break and the valves will bend

Stas, 8klop doesn’t bend the valve

Alexey, they say 1.5 is not oppressive, but 1.6 is oppressive. Idk

The valve does not bend either 1.5 or 1.6

Try to put the video from 1.5 16 cl

It will be wider

Alternatively, maybe take a ride

If washers do not help, then argon will help. And cut it again on the machine!

Stas, 1.6 has been running since 2012 on motors with new pistons

Gennady, ha I have a 2008

Yesterday, the washer under the roller was slightly ground off on one edge, now the belt will move in the other direction...

Make half-washers and give them a hand, I’ve been riding with them for three years now, everything is fire

Gennady, cut a beer can to size, did I understand correctly?

I also had a belt slide down to the engine, put a 0.5mm washer, and it was in the center

Vlad, won’t the half pucks fly out during operation?

Ivan, look on YouTube there are videos on how to make a channel Alexander Skripichenko master

They will press together and won’t go anywhere, the main thing is not to do it exactly in half, but to make it a little more than half. I have everything so far thank God))) good luck

Don't drive, come on! There is a thick ground washer between the roller and the wall of the block. The pin only presses the washer against the wall and the roller aligns parallel to it. And the belt is eating because the pulleys are worn out. Change the entire set of pulleys, roller and pump with belt. Everything will be fucked up!

Free forecast! Write!

The hairpin can be made of mild steel and bends. If the thread is cut crookedly, the pin can be bent, but this is definitely not easy to do

Andrey, This whole fucking thing started after I got a pin unscrewed while driving, well, I immediately replaced the timing belt, before that there was nothing like this even close... the pin was screwed in a little crookedly, it’s barely noticeable, the thick washer that was between the roller and the head was ground off a little Now the belt goes out.

Buy a new washer and tighten it

The hammer will help you, on the original stiletto it also led away, knocked a little and everything was fine..... the main thing is without fanaticism

Stas, he only bends 1.6 Grant engines, his timing belt is in a separate case, but the simple ones that went to 10-14 will never bend anything

Alexander, at least this makes me happy

Ivan, even if the pin seems to be, it seems, or something else, barely noticeably bent, then when you tighten the roller it will straighten out, because the planes on the washer and the roller are strictly parallel, it is impossible to tighten them crookedly. And your belt is eating because the new belt you installed is new! And the gears of the pump, crankshaft, and camshaft are made to fit the old belt. That is, for a new belt, this is a foreign track. Even if you didn’t change the belt, but just turned it over, it would definitely eat it. You change everything listed in one day and forget about the problem.

Ivan, and in Tyr-Tyr-Net they advise putting cans under the roller, and for some it helps, but only for some and by chance, and not for everyone at once, but after two or three belts. Agree that it is cheaper to buy everything once than to change a new belt every week. Moreover, gears cost pennies. Just got a pump, and even then it’s worth 50 thousand, not that much money.

Don't kick too hard, read and be horrified.

So a problem happened to me. The timing belt tension roller pin broke. How many words did I remember, what ornate designs they were. And as a result - the sound of a falling reinforced concrete slab from my soul and sincere praise to the engineers and designers of AvtoTAZ with their one and a half liter eight-valve engine of my ten. And this is all because my valves don’t bend!

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Replacing the timing roller stud, features of gearbox repair + photo

1. One of the owners of a VAZ-2108, engine 1300, attempted to replace the timing belt tension roller pin due to wear on the thread in the cylinder head securing this pin. The attempt was made without removing the cylinder head, the thread turned out to be crooked and not reliable, the pin had to be bent so that the belt would not slip, and later it fell out, the belt jumped and all the valves were bent. To cut the correct thread, it is better to remove the cylinder head. This is what the crooked hairpin looked like