How to improve the sensitivity of the electronic gas pedal on the Lada Granta

January 11, 2018 Lada.Online 287 213 23

E-GAS or electronic gas pedal is installed on all Lada models (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4). Owner reviews about it are not reassuring; many complain that the e-gas pedal is “dumb” (less sensitive and informative than a conventional cable). Did you know that in some cases the electronic accelerator pedal can be adjusted to be more responsive and a little livelier?

We determine the model of the accelerator pedal; this can be done by the catalog number, which is glued to the side of the body. If you cannot access the sticker, you will have to remove the electronic gas pedal:

1. Disconnect the block with wires next to the gas pedal;
2. Unscrew three nuts using a 10mm wrench;
3. Remove the housing and pedal assembly.

The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic gas pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):

• Old model (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
• New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).

Each block is modified differently. Attention! You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. In addition, you may lose your warranty.

Signs of engine tripping

Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

The main signs of engine tripping include

Signs

1 uneven idle speed, as well as shaking of the engine

2 darkening of one of the spark plugs

3 change in exhaust sound

4 weak acceleration dynamics of Priors at any speed

5 increase in fuel consumption

6 floating revolutions, displayed on the tachometer by jerking the arrow

7 jerks when accelerating or moving

Auto mechanics identify several reasons why jerking occurs and the engine begins to stall. The main ones are: incorrect ignition timing, faulty spark plugs and installed condenser, broken piston rings, piston and valve burnout, rocker wear, clogged air filter, and others.

The cause of the jerking must be sought in the cylinders

To reduce the search for the cause of engine tripping, it is recommended to determine which cylinders are not working correctly or have stopped functioning. To do this, you will need to remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plugs one by one.

This procedure must be performed carefully, as there is a risk of electric shock. Before performing this work, you will need to place a dielectric base in the form of rubber or wood under your feet.

It is recommended to remove by the wire. Then the engine speed increases to 1500 rpm. The valves are removed from the cylinders one by one. If the sound of the vehicle changes when removed, then the cylinder is working correctly. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

What to expect from ECU tuning

Reflashing allows you to correct errors and optimize the performance of the car.
Companies offering chip tuning services develop and offer various software that allows you to optimize the basic performance of cars.

This process allows you to correct all sorts of errors, create a backup copy of the initial settings, study and adjust characteristics, as well as make changes and test new firmware of electronic components.

If you need to return to default settings, this is done almost instantly. But those who have already reflashed Granta will never return to the standard factory settings. After flashing you can get:

• reduction in fuel consumption by 5%;
• high speed characteristics;
• 10% increase in power;
• smooth operation of the automatic transmission;
• improved traction.

And that's not all. In this case, not a single intervention is made in the mechanics. This is one of the cheapest ways to make Granta better. There is one caveat. If the car is currently under warranty, after flashing the ECU, the warranty is invalid.

Reason 1. The food was so-so

The author of the article had a breathtakingly funny story. True, not with him personally, but with a friend. He once filled up with fuel at a well-known gas station. I filled it up and went on a date with the girl. And it’s frosty, winter outside. While we sat in the cafe and cooed at the cinema, it’s time to go home. But there’s no way to get home – the car doesn’t move. Well, no way at all: we haven’t tried everything, we haven’t read what forums. And so, on the advice of an experienced person, my friend decided to stick a branch into the gas tank and check the gasoline. And what do you think? Gasoline is frozen! That is, in general! Apparently the brave mixers overdid it with water in the fuel. Of course, they drove the car away, warmed it up and drained the gasoline, but a residue remained.

The quality of the fuel directly affects the behavior of the car. You can press the pedal to the floor as long and sharply as you like, but you will not achieve any effect. The car will sneeze, slow down and suffer along with you. The simplest thing is to drain the gasoline and pour 5 - 10 liters from another gas station. If this was the case, the symptoms will immediately disappear. And if it’s not in it, then pour the old one back in - don’t let the goodness go to waste. We wrote about the consequences of pouring low-quality fuel here.

Diagnostics

Most often, drivers complain about the following problems with electronic gas:

• The speed fluctuates (standby mode);
• The engine does not respond to gas (emergency operation);
• Pedal play.

If in the latter case the malfunction may be purely mechanical, then in the first two there is clearly a problem with the electronics. In this case, the initial diagnosis of the electronic gas pedal can be carried out independently, but for this it must first be dismantled:

• Disconnect the block with wires;
• Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the pedal;
• Remove the pedal.

To check the condition of the moving contacts and conductive paths of the gas pedal position sensors:

1. Using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode, check the resistance between contacts “4” and “2”. Slowly move the gas pedal, at this time the resistance should change smoothly.
2. We also check the resistance between contacts “4” and “3”.
3. To check the conductive paths of another sensor, we measure the resistance between two other pairs of contacts: “1” and “6”, as well as “6” and “5”.

If there is an abrupt change in resistance on any of the pair of contacts described above, we can say with confidence that the E-gas pedal is faulty. It will need to be replaced as a whole with a new one.

Design for Russians

I wrote this post not because I discovered something new, just to show what is inside. Of course, the device is already outdated. Many similar structures are equipped not with mechanical brushes, but with a Hall sensor, which operates in a non-contact manner. And we still use contacts - it’s good for Russians!

I drove around, but nothing really changed. True, the speed seems to have become more stable. Most likely, you can’t change anything about this electronic pedal; when it wears out, you’ll have to throw it away and buy a new one.

All the best, I look forward to your questions and advice!

product pic1 res

A two-mode “booster,” so to speak, deceives the ECU: it makes it think that we pressed the pedal harder than it actually happened. It works in a more rigid coupling with the engine

But it is important to understand that this will not result in more “horses” and the nominal acceleration will not change, it’s just that the ecological “cotton wool” disappears from the pedal. In principle, the driver could drive at the same pace before, just press with his right foot more boldly

Next up is a Mini at the go-kart track and a Tiguan in the city. Both cars only confirm the above. However, sitting in a Volkswagen crossover, I very opportunely remember about the sport mode of the DSG transmission and decide to compare it with the operation of a “booster”. The latter predictably pales in comparison to this convenient feature. I think that for cars that have a “sport mode”, the accelerator will most likely be superfluous. The “brain” block of modern two-pedal boxes makes the actuators move faster in “sport”; pushes down a gear quickly and coordinates it with engine speed, achieving the best torque output. This is the real environmental killer. But the “booster” does not have such an arsenal.

Design and principle of operation

The principle of operation of the electronic gas pedal is not very complicated in theory. Essentially, this device works on the principle of a rheostat that monitors the position of the lever. Inside there are track contacts that duplicate each other for greater reliability. Depending on the position of the lever, data is transmitted to the electronic control unit - ECU, which controls the position of the carburetor damper, opening or closing it. This is done by a small electric motor with a gearbox. Of course, the design of an electronic gas pedal is much more complex than such a simple circuit. It includes many sensors and control mechanisms. They control the fuel supply even when the pedal is in one position, adapting to the slightest change in the vehicle's speed and environmental conditions. Today, there are no problems starting the engine in any season and maintaining its optimal operation, since almost all modern cars have an electronic gas pedal. Thanks to this simple device, the life of car enthusiasts has become much easier.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=huD6pmDK6-U

"Deep" tuning

True engine boost enthusiasts can go much further in their pursuits. Among the most popular measures:

• installation of forged pistons;
• cylinder boring;
• installation of a nitrogen accelerator;
• turbocharged engine.

If you intend to strengthen the engine of your Granta Sport in this way, it is better to carry out tuning in a comprehensive manner. Installing a forged group is pointless without intensifying the fuel supply, and turbocharging accelerates the wear of serial pistons. And do not forget that increased “sporty” engine power requires intervention in other car systems. It will be necessary to strengthen the brakes, modify the suspension, and make changes to the transmission. Without these procedures, you will not be able to enjoy the speed of your fret for long.

The car pulls to the side

It is clear that not only the brakes can be to blame for a car drifting off course - the wheel alignment angles, the wheels themselves, and the steering can also be to blame. However, quite often questions arise specifically about the brakes, especially if the car pulls sideways when braking. Most often, jammed pistons in the cylinders of one of the circuits are to blame. It is possible that the wheel may brake due to the loosening of the bolts securing the pad guide to the steering knuckle, as well as the pads getting oily or getting brake fluid on them.

Perhaps an ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads, or the pads are simply wet. Or one of the circuits of the brake system does not work - the pedal is low and the braking efficiency is low. Brake disc runout, wheel bearing wear, and brake drum out-of-roundness may also be to blame.

Options

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The basic package called Optima (LADA engine 1.6 l, 106 hp, manual transmission) includes two front airbags, ESC stability control system (includes ABS and non-disabled traction control), hill start assist system, audio system, driver's seat height adjustment, ERA-GLONASS emergency warning system, front seat belts with pretensioners and load limiters, LED daytime running lights, central locking with remote control from a folding key, 16-inch alloy wheels, etc.

The list of equipment for the Top version is supplemented by fog lights, electric drive and heated exterior mirrors, parking sensors, and a multimedia system with navigator.

For the flagship XRAY, a Prestige package is offered, which includes a heated windshield, a rear view camera, climate control, rain and light sensors and enhanced window tinting.

More details about the most expensive Exclusive package here

Prices are valid for July 2022

Enlarge price list

Additional payment for metallic paint of the body - 12 thousand rubles.

More details about prices and configurations above in the prices section

All X-Rays come on 16-diameter alloy wheels with Pirelli tires.

Fuel tank capacity is 50 liters.

see how the top version of Xray differs from the basic one (photo)

Lada Granta 2012, 87 l. With. - other

Lada Granta, 2018

Comments 23

Pedal adaptation helps me personally! When I came for diagnostics, about six months after purchasing the car, the diagnostics showed that the gas pedal was not adapted! I performed the above operation on rpm from 1000 to 4000 and it adapted! These failures, if you suddenly give the gas to the floor even for a second, are annoying! After chipping there was not a single failure at all, you press sharply and it immediately slips without delay! For some reason, about a month later, a small failure appeared again!

This is not an adaptation! What you described is enabling the misfire diagnostic function.

Throttle valve adaptation is done as follows:

1. Ignition on 2. Wait 30-40 seconds. 3. Start the internal combustion engine. 4. Turn off the ignition 5. Wait for the main relay to turn off. 6. Everything

But only then we go to the track and adapt the passes.

But before this, you need to warm up the internal combustion engine until the fan turns on three times.

initialization, and then the above written by the author! Helps! ) BC State1 for help or diagnostics

The staff transfers to 95th without training, many ride on 92nd

You read more carefully (— adaptation of the throttle position zero. For this, the first turn on of the ignition switch after replacing the controller) after replacing the controller. Removing the terminal from the battery or resetting the settings by the staff does not affect anything. Again, we carefully read (adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function of the controller in order to avoid damage to the catalytic manifold and possible fire of the car) misfires have nothing to do with the pedal in general. In the first case, all this is done at the factory. This is only necessary when the brain changes or the throttle assembly.

or by “resetting” it with initialization using diagnostic equipment, my B.K can do initialization, so for whom how

If the staff resets it, won’t it work?

I think no! The state only resets the values ​​to zero! This is different!

I’ll try this during the day, otherwise I’ve already sinned on the filter, you press the pedal, from 2 to 3 there are dips, that is, no!

try! Let me know if it helped or not!

I need to try it, otherwise there are holes in my guts

everything is clear, I just changed the firmware, I did it! But when I drove around after buying the car for about six months and stopped by for diagnostics! It revealed that for some reason the pedal was not adjusted! And even after the firmware, the car was tearing out from under itself, and about two weeks ago small gaps appeared again! I tried from 1000 to 4000 as it was written to do everything, the pedal became more responsive! But it’s still not the same as right after the firmware!

When repairing vehicles equipped with an electronic throttle actuator and associated with replacing the ECM or “resetting” it with initialization using diagnostic equipment, as well as during a trial installation of the controller, it is necessary to perform: - adaptation of the throttle position zero. To do this, the first turning on of the ignition switch after replacing the controller must be accompanied by holding the key in the “ignition on” position for at least 30 seconds before starting the engine. In this case, the temperature of the ambient air and the engine must be at least +7ºС. Otherwise, the engine will operate in emergency mode; — adaptation of the controller’s misfire diagnostic function to avoid damage to the catalytic manifold and possible vehicle fire. To do this, it is necessary to reproduce engine braking on the car 6 times from 4000 to 1000 rpm when driving in second gear in one trip. This is all done when the brain changes. And from the factory, I think everything should already be done there.

Lubricating the throttle cable on a Priora at home

To work you will need:

• Flat screwdriver;
• Pliers;
• A syringe and a few drops of motor oil or WD-40.

Actually the work itself...

1. First you need to turn off the engine and let it cool.

3. To remove the throttle cable, you need to remove it from the plastic bracket; to do this, pull the cable casing towards you and, pushing the rubber ring up, remove the cable.

4. Now you need to disconnect the cable from the throttle valve drive. To do this, remove the U-shaped metal bracket from the throttle actuator by prying off one edge using a flathead screwdriver.

5. We remove the cable from the hook, overcoming the force of the spring.

6. Now that nothing is in the way, you can begin to lubricate the throttle valve actuator; to do this, you need to slide the transparent cap and generously lubricate the cable with a few drops of engine oil or WD-40 penetrating fluid. In the case of oil, prepare a syringe.

Try to pour oil into the housing, then move the housing to lubricate the cable along its entire length. Repeat the procedure several times until the cable is completely lubricated.

Replacing the idle speed sensor (video)

Dismantling the IAC

1. First of all, before starting the replacement, turn off the engine and open the hood.
2. The regulator itself is located on the throttle body, slightly lower than the damper position sensor.
3. This photo shows how to find it visually by simply looking a little further under the hood.

The idle speed control is marked with a red marker.

Next, remove the wire block by first unhooking the latch from its body. And then unscrew the two bolts using a regular Phillips screwdriver

(Please note that you should choose a screwdriver with a short blade, otherwise it may simply not fit in a limited space).. Remove the unscrewed screws in a safe place

We put the unscrewed screws in a safe place.

When the bolts are unscrewed, we simply pull the regulator body towards us, and it calmly gives in.

IAC inspection

Now that the device has been dismantled, you can easily determine and decide whether to replace the sensor with a new one or start cleaning it. If there is carbon deposits on the regulator, but there is no mechanical damage, no parts are falling off its body, and its condition inspires confidence in you, then you can easily simply clean it. For this we only need carburetor cleaner and a clean rag. Using it, fill all the holes and niches, clean everything with a rag and let it dry for a certain time.

This is what a “dirty” IAC may look like.

And so after cleaning.

If the IAC has damage to the working mechanism, then it will only have to be replaced with a new one. The catalog number of the factory idle air regulator is 2112-1148300-04. Of course, there are analogues, but you should go to the store with a previously removed spare part.

IAC assembly

After the device has been cleaned or replaced with a new one, we reassemble it in the same manner as removal. Do not forget to connect the wiring harness to it and check that it is securely secured.

Attention to the salon

The design inside the Granta is not bad, the seats are quite comfortable - there is lateral support and heating. However, if you want to own a non-standard version of the Sport Grant, tuning the interior is still necessary. At least in minimal quantities.

• In the case of the Lada Granta Sport, interior tuning most often begins with the installation of alternative dashboard lighting. The algorithm of actions is simple: the devices are dismantled, and the LEDs on the board are soldered to a variant of a different color.
• Next, you can finish the handles and mirrors to match the body. The most commonly used is spray paint.
• A good idea for the Lada Granta Sport: tuning the interior - in terms of the “chrome” frame of the deflectors, as well as the console.
• You can cover the elements inside the cabin with vinyl.
• We supplement the heating of the mirrors by integrating an electric drive into them.

Related link:

How to make an armrest for a Lada Granta yourself. Recommendations from professionals

Try to implement these ideas for tuning sport grants 2022 - the only thing that can limit the flight of its owner’s imagination is a lack of money or lack of time.

Refinement of a new electronic gas pedal

The pedal assembly (11183-1108500-01) does not have oval holes, which does not allow adjustment in the manner described above. Instead, it is proposed to cut off the protrusion (by 2-3 mm), which prevents the pedal from moving completely. This modernization made it possible to increase the pedal travel, which made acceleration with “pedal to the floor” more active. It is also noted that there is no hesitation when pressing the pedal sharply. What I don’t like about the pedal assembly (8450008980), which is installed on Lada Vesta:

• tight gas pedal;
• large free play of the gas pedal (about 8 mm at the tip of the pedal).

What was decided to do:

• remove one of the return springs to make the pedal softer;
• Place a spacer to reduce the free play of the pedal.

How to measure pedal free play:

1. Let's start the engine.
2. Place a ruler at the tip of the pedal.
3. Smoothly press the pedal until the engine begins to gain speed.
4. We remember the distance on the ruler.

We remove and disassemble the electronic gas pedal:

1. Disconnect the connector (by pressing the inside of the upper part of the latch)
2. Unscrew three nuts (head “10”).
3. Remove the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws.
4. Remove the rheostat slider by unscrewing the screw.

Refinement process:

1. Remove the spring (holding them with a screwdriver from the outside).

1. Remove the white support spacers, remembering how they were installed.
2. We measure the distance between the support pad of the return spring lever and the support rubber in the body, retracting the pedal to the amount of free play (indicated by an arrow).
3. We glue the material of the same thickness (in this example we use 4 mm stickers for furniture legs and doors) using glue or double-sided tape.

We assemble the pedal assembly and install it in the car. The idle motion of the pedal should be minimal, about 1 mm. If the engine idle speed is higher than usual, and there is no free play of the pedal at all, then too much has been added. You will have to repeat the adjustment operation, adjusting the thickness of the lining. The same thing applies if the free play after adjustment remains more than 1-2 mm.

When the throttle assembly of any modern vehicle operates, a lot of contaminants in the form of dust, soot, and oil gradually accumulate on the surface of the throttle. They form a layer of dirt, which makes the air gap between the damper and the car's air duct smaller than the established norm. This gap is important for the normal functioning of the “heart” of the car, since thanks to it the idle speed is maintained at the required level.

When it decreases, the vehicle's electronic control unit (car computer) slightly opens the damper by introducing coefficients that take into account changes in its cross-section. Up to a certain point, the ECU manages to maintain the air gap at a constant level, but sooner or later the throttle valve will still have to be cleaned of dirt.

The need for such an operation, which involves bringing high idle speeds to a standard value, arises not only after flushing the throttle assembly, but also in other cases, in particular in the following:

• after the vehicle battery is completely discharged;
• after replacing or removing the accelerator pedal;
• after replacing or reconnecting the vehicle's electronic control unit.

Undoubted signs indicating that the damper needs to be trained immediately are the following phenomena:

• whistling when revving;
• inadequate behavior of the engine at idle;
• lack of power at idle or failures.

It is advisable to adapt these devices before you teach idle speed. If the cable of the sensor that sends the signal about the accelerator pedal position is disconnected, you must perform the following steps:

1. Release the pedal completely.
2. Turn the ignition key to “ON” and wait at least two seconds;
3. Turn off the ignition, wait 10 seconds;
4. Repeat the procedure according to point 2, and then according to point 3.

The described procedure (you must admit, it’s not at all complicated) will teach the damper to open correctly. But to adapt the valve to the “Closed” position, the following operations should be performed:

1. Release (fully) the accelerator pedal.
2. Place the key in the “ON” position.
3. Switch the ignition to “OFF” and wait 10 seconds.
4. We make sure that the valve lever moves within 10 seconds (a characteristic sound indicates that there is movement).

Feedback on the E-Gas modification

Car enthusiasts who have already completed the adjustment note that if you move the pedal assembly cover clockwise, the car becomes a little more lively. If you press the pedal as before and the car starts to move, you have to get used to it and not press the gas so hard. When you press the pedal to the floor, you can't feel the difference.

Those who adjusted the E-gas for a quieter ride noticed that driving on the highway became more comfortable. Now, to maintain speed, you need to press the gas pedal a little harder, which allows your leg to not be as tense as before.

Other motorists do not believe in the positive effect, saying that it is all self-hypnosis. The operation of the electronic gas pedal is based on changing the resistance difference. And even if you move the cover, when the engine starts, the ECU will still consider it to be zero and adjust the throttle from this point. And if you increase the sector stroke, the E-gas error “signal outside the permissible limits!” will appear.

Have you encountered such modification of E-gas? What feedback can you leave about such adjustments? Is there a positive effect or is it all at the level of self-hypnosis? Let us remind you that if necessary, you can check the E-gas yourself. By the way, an alternative to modifying the electronic gas pedal is chip tuning.

Photo: Rivo in-flight magazine and LADA VESTA group in OK

Keywords: granta fret pedals | Lada Priora pedals | fret Kalina pedals | 4x4 pedals | fret vesta pedals | pedals lada xray | fret largus pedals | Lada Granta engine | Lada Priora engine | Lada Kalina engine | 4x4 engine | Lada Vesta engine | Lada Largus engine | lada xray engine | Niva pedals | Niva engine | universal article

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The main “miscalculations” of VAZ

Of course, no matter how much VAZ praises e-gas, this mechanism also has serious drawbacks. For example, if it fails, this device cannot be repaired. A complete replacement will be required, which will be very expensive. Although today there are “traditional craftsmen” who have adapted to repair the device themselves, this is not always effective - driving with such e-gas is even dangerous.

As for the responsiveness of the car, not everything is clear here either. Many motorists claim that the old Kalinas were much easier to pedal and responded better to pressure. E-gas responds to them with a delay, and this can become a critical problem, especially if you need to quickly avoid a collision or simply quickly overtake.

Repair

If there are any problems with the pedal, then only a complete replacement of the unit will help. But before changing anything, it is worth identifying the cause of the malfunction. To do this, you can use a multimeter test.

You can disconnect the sensors and the block and remove the pedal. Check the resistance - when you press the gas it should change slowly. Jumps in indicators indicate malfunctions.

But sometimes repairs are possible - for example, the wiring is damaged. If a wiring defect is detected, you can use the following diagram.

• Release the axis on which the gear is attached.
• Remove the wiring harness.
• Then the wires are soldered off.
• Release the bracket and pull out the cable.

Next, change the wires and solder them according to the connector under the pedal.

Source

Reason 4. The pressure is so pressure

Look at the manual and decide what pressure is typical for the car. Find the regulator on the line and see if it is leaking. The second reason is incorrect configuration. Excess pressure is generated in the system, which affects the non-standard behavior of the car. Arm yourself with an air pump to check: raise the pressure level to the required level and dump fuel into the tank. The operations must be performed simultaneously. If fuel reset occurs earlier, the regulator should be replaced.

If you have an injection engine, look for the fuel pump in the gasoline tank. With a carburetor engine, the pump is located directly on the engine, under the hood.

Upgrading the exhaust system

To further strengthen the engine of the sports car, it is recommended to supplement the tuning by making changes to the exhaust system. Namely, dismantle the existing exhaust manifold and install a “spider”. It will collect exhaust gases from several cylinders at once into one conducting pipe.

When purchasing such a collector, experts advise contacting manufacturers who have proven themselves well. Their products use high quality steel, which is treated to prevent rusting, and the wiring diagrams are calculated as successfully as possible.

The design and principle of operation of the electronic gas pedal

To understand how it works and functions, you need to roughly understand the general circuit of the mechanical analogue. The functions of these systems are similar, but the simplest unit can only be considered a traditional drive.

The gas pedal is a control element for the throttle and its damper. The function of the throttle is to regulate the amount of air. The more air, the higher the engine speed the crankshaft will rotate. The pedal is connected to the throttle drive via a cable drive or levers. All this significantly reduces the effort required to press the gas.

The operating principle of the electronic unit is more complex, but this makes the process of controlling speed easier. The electronic accelerator is used only on engines with an injection power system. Its device is completely electronic. It is based on electronic modules that convert electrical signals.

Structurally, the unit consists of a plastic lever and a mounting bracket - there are two sensors inside the bracket. All these elements form a single, non-separable structure.

Potentiometers are used as sensors. The movable contact of which is in rigid connection with the axis of the plastic pedal lever.

When the driver presses the accelerator, the electronics sends information about the position of the lever to the unit responsible for converting signals. In the next step, the signal is amplified and the throttle is opened according to the vehicle settings.

If we consider the classic scheme, the pedal axis is aligned with the potentiometer slider. The variable resistor is manufactured on a printed circuit board using sputtering technology. When you press the accelerator, the potentiometer sliders move along the sprayed surface, changing the resistance in the circuit.

New car models use two potentiometers. This approach increases the reliability and accuracy of control. If one resistor fails, the system will use the readings of the second.

Cylinder head

The cylinder head (cylinder head) is aluminum. The gasket between the two blocks is two-layer, metal. Inside the head there are 2 camshafts and 16 valves (2 for the intake and 2 for the exhaust of each cylinder). Hydraulic compensators are used as pushers. Their use eliminates the mandatory procedure for periodically setting the thermal clearances of the cylinder head valves.

The camshafts for intake and exhaust are different and therefore not interchangeable.

Spark plugs are installed on top of the cylinder head in recesses specially made for them - spark plug wells.

The generator is driven by a poly V-belt from the crankshaft. An automatic tension roller is used to set the direction of the belt along the pulleys.

The timing belt is covered with plastic covers.

The receiver and inlet pipeline are made of plastic in the form of a single non-separable structure.

As for the exhaust system, a steel manifold is used here, which is combined with a catalytic converter. As in the case of the cylinder head, a metal two-layer gasket is used for connection to the head of the manifold block.

Ultimately, the engine is covered on top with a stylish plastic cover.

If our story seemed short to you, then we suggest you watch the video about the 21129 motor below.

Engine lost power: common causes

1. Ignition problems. An ignition timing angle that is too early will mean that the fuel-air mixture is prematurely ignited. As a result, the expanding gases counteract the upward piston rather than pushing it down. Under such conditions, engine power will drop noticeably. The same is true for retarded ignition. Late combustion of the fuel-air mixture leads to the fact that the expanded gases “catch up” with the downward piston, useful energy is wasted. It turns out that in both the first and second cases, the driver intensively presses the gas pedal, fuel is consumed, but the full return from the engine does not occur. Also worth mentioning are problems associated with the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulator. The fact is that malfunctions of these solutions affect the ignition timing and its change in relation to different operating conditions of the internal combustion engine. For example, when the speed increases, the regulator shifts the ignition angle. In other words, the degree of opening of the throttle valve and the increasing speed of the crankshaft at the same speed do not allow the engine to develop full power. On injection engines, a loss of power may be observed after flashing or chip tuning of the ECU in order to save fuel.
2. Cylinder-piston group and timing. As mentioned above, loss of engine power is caused by wear of the CPG, failures in timing settings, or accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. As for the gas distribution mechanism, improper valve adjustment, coke and carbon deposits can disrupt the normal operation of the valve mechanism. More precisely, the tightness of the combustion chamber is compromised due to the loose fit (adhesion) of the valves to the seats. The fit may be compromised if the valves are too tight. Engine coking also prevents the valve from closing normally. The fact is that the carbon layer prevents normal adhesion. As a result, some gases break through loosely closed valves, causing overheating, burnout of the valve, valve seats, etc. Coke deposits can additionally smolder under the influence of high temperature, causing the effect of uncontrolled ignition of the mixture, that is, glow ignition. All this leads to malfunctions and a decrease in the power of the power unit. As for the CPG, piston ring wear is a common cause of low cylinder compression. As a result, gases break through into the engine crankcase, that is, the energy of fuel combustion is again consumed with great losses. Determining the cause is not particularly difficult. It is enough to remove the crankcase ventilation hose and evaluate the degree of smoke intensity. The presence of strong smoke that pulsates will indicate problems with the rings.
3. Filling with fuel-air mixture and mixture composition. Problems with the filling and composition of the fuel charge can reduce engine power even if the engine is in good condition and the ignition is set correctly. The most common cause is a dirty throttle valve or a malfunction of the throttle opening mechanism itself. Let us add that running on a lean mixture will not allow the engine to develop full power. Leaning can be caused by air leaks that occur both at the intake and in the fuel system. Another reason is contamination of the jets on the carburetor or fuel injectors/fuel pump mesh/fuel lines of the injection internal combustion engine. The air intake also deserves special attention. The first step is to check the air filter. Then you should diagnose the fuel system. To begin with, it should be ruled out that the tank is filled with fuel with a low octane number for a particular type of engine. The next step is to check the injectors and their performance, as well as the fuel pump.

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Reference data

Basic data on the unit is collected in the following table.

The cylinder block (BC) is cast and cast iron. Cooling cavities are formed directly during casting, but the feed channels are made by drilling. At the bottom of the BC there are 5 supports of the main bearings of the CV (crankshaft), while the caps of these bearings have a serial number, starting from the CV pulley and are not interchangeable with each other.

The holes for the oil intake bolts are located in the cover of the second main bearing. The material used for making the liners is steel-aluminum alloy.

The connecting rod and piston group (CPG) is the same as on the 21127 engine, lightweight with graphite coating on the piston skirts. Although they have special grooves at the bottom for the valves, they are not large enough to prevent their contact if the timing belt breaks. At the same time, at MMAC-2018, AVTOVAZ announced that in cars of the 2022 model series this long-standing problem will be solved and this will eliminate costly repairs due to untimely maintenance of the gas distribution mechanism.

As before, there are 3 rings per piston. Two of them are compression and one is oil scraper with a spring expander. But there is still one difference - the rings have become thinner, which makes it possible to reduce friction, which means increasing engine efficiency (reducing consumption, increasing power).

Fingers fixed with two locking rings, floating type.

The connecting rods are “chopped”, in the upper head of which a bushing made of steel-bronze alloy is pressed. The covers are installed in one position only and are not interchangeable.

The oil pump is driven by a drive from the front end of the crankshaft. There are also no changes in the operation of the oil pump - it takes oil from the oil pan using an oil receiver and supplies it under pressure to the engine lubrication channels. The level in the pan is controlled using a specially installed dipstick. A mandatory element is installed in the lubrication system - a filter with a check valve and a paper filter element. Thanks to the check valve, oil does not leak out of the channels back into the sump after stopping the engine.

In the new modifications of 21129, engineers added nozzles for oil cooling of the internal surfaces of the pistons. This should increase their resource. There are also special channels in the crankshaft body, thanks to which the connecting rod journals do not experience oil starvation.

All technological holes in the channels are closed using stamped steel plugs.

conclusions

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But at the same time, it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither the repair nor the repair will cost a penny.

Good day! Question for those who have encountered this problem. So I’ll start from afar to make the situation more clear. In general, I wrote earlier that I had a problem with the fact that at a traffic light the speed dropped to 500, then rose to 1200, then leveled off and everything started in a circle several times, and if I left it on hot, at idle, it could stall altogether, but it stalled softly, as if they had simply turned the key, and the canister purge valve was also clicking. I went through various diagnostics for a long time, in the end they found an air leak through the rubber bands of the receiver, changed the IAC, washed the throttle, changed the filter and mesh, after this replacement curve the fuel pump whistled, failures seemed to become less frequent, but it still stalled and only when it was hot, when I left it on single. As a result, I got to one diagnostician, he found a bent throttle valve, did the firmware and the car seemed to drive, the fuel pump stopped whistling after a month and a half. Everything seemed to be fine, but over time I began to notice such a thing that when the tank needle is in the red zone, the car seems to have been replaced, it starts to drive very cheerfully with less pressure on the gas pedal, plus there is clearer information from the pedal and less roar of the engine when accelerating. .e. even from the bottom (1.4 engine) it accelerates with a pleasant sound, and not with a fart that is about to die. BUT, as soon as you fill gasoline above the red zone, the car becomes sluggish, when accelerating in second gear, the car does not respond to how much the gas pedal is pressed, whether the pedal is to the floor, or until half the acceleration speed does not change, the speed rises somehow slowly, but if you pump the gas pedal with your foot several times, you can achieve a slight acceleration, but still not as much as on an empty tank (for the difference in weight of 30 liters, I think it’s stupid to say what will affect acceleration). Plus, when accelerating from the bottom, there is an unpleasant, sort of slightly farting sound from the engine (not the exhaust), it feels like it’s missing either air or gasoline. I drove like this for almost a year, I couldn’t find the reason, there were similar topics on the service and on the Internet, but there were no concrete solutions, most people simply don’t believe that the car can drive more vigorously on an empty tank. There is no air or other stuff in the tank. Recently the fuel pump whistled again, but the car drove briskly and on a full tank, so the pump was still original since 2009, I decided that the problem was in it and changed it, it seemed to start running, then I found a topic about the RTD and also changed it to catch up. The car came to life with any tank, drove like that for a week and a half and went to another city on the highway, everything was great, the acceleration was excellent, I didn’t even notice how quickly it picked up to 150. BUT, after driving about 70-80 kilometers, I began to notice that something was wrong again, when I was driving back I had to stoke in third to overtake

In general, now I don’t know where to dig, the car now drives according to its mood, no matter how many liters are in the tank, for example, I leave for work in the morning, it’s dull, the gas is on the floor, and like a pensioner it accelerates slowly, I leave it in the parking lot, in the evening I go out and it drives cheerfully with slipping in second and third gear, as if the engine had been changed. So far I can’t catch any pattern (if before it was based on the level of gasoline in the tank)

I also forgot to write that even after replacing the RTD with a hot one, in half the cases it starts poorly, you have to squeeze the gas. I only drive on gasoline; I don’t have gas equipment. Anyone who has encountered such a problem or knows what could be the reason, please tell me.

www.drive2.ru

Advice

Today, all manufacturers are moving to electronic pedals in one way or another, and you shouldn’t refuse to buy a specific car just because its gas is not controlled by a cable. Just keep in mind that electronic throttle control will delay engine response. You must always keep this delay in mind and press or release the gas a little earlier than required (it is clear that this is not always possible). Only the car manufacturer can influence the delay time by changing the algorithms for operating the gas pedal, or by installing faster hardware in the engine control unit.

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conclusions

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.

The brakes, of course, were invented by cowards - any reckless driver will tell you that. But when you realize that there is “something wrong” with them, it becomes scary to get behind the wheel: the trip may be your last. We drive thoughts like “it will do” away: the jokes are over

It is important to determine the type of malfunction - at least in advance

Criticism of the model

Why the clutch slips, diagnostics and main faults. Among the assessments of acceleration programs, there are also negative ones. Critics argue that the attractiveness of developing their own startups to the tech intelligentsia creates a tight labor market for tech companies. It is noted that while focusing on training founders, accelerators produce few

viable, investment-attractive projects. In the growing number of accelerator graduates, some critics see the potential for an overvalued

companies, which could lead to a loss of confidence in the industry and a drop in the valuation of technology startups as such.

Expert answer

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About the expert:

Lada expert An expert on Lada cars with many years of experience. I own a Lada Granta car, I collect cramps based on the Priora. Sometimes I stay overnight in the garage. My wife is more jealous of cars than of women.

I can assume that due to power surges, the engine control system “glitched” and went into emergency mode. It’s a pity that we didn’t look at the error code, but most likely the error was: “Low signal level of the gas pedal sensor.”

In this case, you did everything right. We found a box in which it does not rain and removed the battery.

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Removing a battery terminal in heavy rain is dangerous; the battery may short out and explode! Yes, this is not a joke, batteries explode!

If you have a similar situation when the engine does not respond to the gas pedal and an error appears on the instrument panel screen, then try the following:

1. turn on the ignition and sharply press the gas pedal all the way several times.
   Press the gas pedal all the way down
2. Start the car, if it idles steadily, then again sharply press the gas pedal all the way.
3. Next to the pedal there is a so-called “frog” - this is the contact block with the wires. Move it, take it off and put it on again (just before doing this, remove the terminal from the battery).
4. The brake pedal frog could also be stuck. This is easy to check; if this happens, the rear brake lights should be on. The brake pedal may also squeak when driving. This is what the brake pedal frog looks like

Detailed video about removing the frog pedal

If all else fails, then you need to contact the dealer or an experienced diagnostician. Most likely, your ECU (electronic control unit of the car) has been flooded with water, or a short hole has appeared in the area from the pedal assembly to the rear dimensions. Or the electronic gas pedal could even break down.

More about that!

One of the symptoms of a faulty frog (pedal limit switch) is failures during acceleration, but failures can also be caused by a clogged fuel filter.

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In connection with the introduction of European exhaust emission standards, at the beginning of 2011, the AvtoVAZ concern began equipping Lada cars with the E-gas system. Subsequently, the manufacturer provided Grant with an electronic gas pedal.

The general meaning of the operation of the electronic system is that by moving the gas selector pedal, special sensors are activated, which are located in the gas pedal module (hereinafter referred to as MPG). With each change in the force exerted on the MG, the resistance of the sensors also changes. After which an electrical signal is generated, which enters the ECU, is read, processed, and depending on the degree of pressing and the results of processing, the final operation of the throttle valve is regulated.