Changing the oil and oil filter of the Lada Granta engine

An oil change for a Lada Granta is required every 15,000 kilometers. If the mileage is low, then the oil needs to be changed once a year. Even if you don't drive a lot, over time the oil oxidizes and loses its properties. Naturally, along with the oil, you will also have to change the filter. But if for an 8-valve engine the filter can be unscrewed from above, then for a 16-valve Lada Granta engine you will have to completely remove the engine compartment protection from below and unscrew the oil filter from there.

In any case, you will need a pit or overpass, since the oil cannot be drained any other way. Work must be carried out on a warm engine. To make the oil more fluid. Turn off the engine and remove the engine oil filler cap. Now unscrew the engine protection.

For the 8-valve Lada Granta engine, the protection does not need to be removed; the oil filter can be accessed from above. What we already mentioned at the beginning of our article.

From the bottom of the car, we clean the oil pan from dirt around the drain plug. Use a socket or a 17mm spanner to loosen the drain plug.

We place a wide container for used oil under the hole. Unscrew the plug by hand and drain the oil. Attention! Be careful - the oil is hot and harsh on the skin.

Drain the oil until it begins to drip from the drain hole. After wiping the plug and removing any remaining dirt from its thread, we wrap the plug in place. We remove oil leaks from the engine oil pan. We place the waste oil container in the area where the oil filter is located and unscrew it, rotating it counterclockwise. If this cannot be done manually, use a puller. To avoid damaging the sensor wiring harness and the crankshaft position sensor itself, disconnect the harness block from the sensor connector and move the wiring harness away from the filter.

Loosen the filter with a puller, unscrew and remove the oil filter.

On some Lada Granta engines, the drain hole in the crankcase pan is closed not with a 17-point turnkey plug, but with a 12-point hexagon. Keep this in mind.

We clean the filter seat on the cylinder block from dirt and oil drips. Fill the filter with new engine oil to approximately half the filter volume and apply a thin layer of oil to the filter O-ring. We wrap the oil filter by hand until the sealing ring comes into contact with the cylinder block. Turn the filter another 3/4 turn to seal the connection. Pour 3.2 liters of oil into the engine through the oil filler neck and screw on the filler cap.

Attention! If the Lada Granta is equipped with an automatic transmission, then the capacity of the engine lubrication system is 4.4 liters.

We start the engine for 1–2 minutes. We make sure that the indicator of insufficient (emergency) oil pressure in the engine in the instrument cluster has gone out and there are no leaks from under the drain plug or from under the filter. We stop the engine and after a few minutes (so that the oil has time to drain into the oil pan) check the oil level in the oil pan. If necessary, bring the oil level to normal, tighten the oil filter and the Granta drain plug.

The VAZ plant produces Lada Granta cars with 5 different engines. The 8-valve family includes three power units - 11183, 11186 and 21116. The last two do not differ much: they have the same power and the same traction torque. Before the transition to Euro-4 standards, there were more differences, for example, power differed. And the advantage of the first is that it is the only one in the entire line of 8-valve engines that does not bend the valves.

There are rumors that the 21st engine is equipped with imported pistons, while the 11186 engines are equipped with VAZ pistons. Whether you believe these rumors or not, decide for yourself.

Design of 8-valve engines

The 11186 engine and its predecessor 11183 do not differ in the location of the components, although their displacement is different. And for motor 21116 (details about the service life and characteristics of motor 21116 here) a separate drawing is provided here. All components related to the lubrication system will be marked on the drawings.

A special feature of the design is the operating temperature of the engine, which in winter does not rise above 80 degrees. The manufacturer (AvtoVAZ) does not consider this feature to be a malfunction. The official information letter is in the material: operating temperature of an 8-valve engine.

The numbers in the figures indicate the details:

• Oil filler neck and plug – 7 (Fig. 1), 4 (Fig. 3);
• Drain plug – 17 (Fig. 2), 10 (Fig. 4);
• Oil filter – 14 (Fig. 2), 8 (Fig. 4);
• Diagnostic probe – 5 (Fig. 1), 9 (Fig. 3);

Photos 1 and 2 correspond to motor 11183 (11186), photos 3 and 4 are a drawing of motor 21116.

Since motors 11186 and 21116 do not differ in power, the owner may not know which of the two motors was installed. Engine information is printed on a plate with a VIN code. It, in turn, is located above the left headlight.

Crib

• To replace, you need a 12mm hexagon , container , remover and a canister for filling;
• It is better to work on a pit or a lift (the latter will require lowering/raising the car several times);
• Do not overtighten the filter when installing;
• Before pouring a new one, check the drain plug and the installation of a new filter;
• If you removed the DPKV chip, put it back on before starting the engine;
• After replacing and starting the machine, check that the oil pressure sensor goes out.

Wondering how to service your car yourself? Then read other articles about working with Granta at the link.

Don't forget to add comments. We are interested in everything that we didn’t like, missed in the article and any other comments.

High-quality lubrication is very important for a car: many components and systems constantly experience friction during operation. Without oils, depreciation and failure are a matter of a few days of operation. So the question of which oil is best to fill in the Lada Grant is one of the most significant for the owners of this model.

Let's start with what kind of oil to pour into the Lada Granta engine. All other operational characteristics of the machine primarily depend on the “health” of the engine.

Replacement operation

It is recommended to change the oil only when the engine is warm. And yet, it would be better to drive the car into a pit. Otherwise, you will have to find the drain plug by touch. Only the replacement procedure is discussed here. A list of recommended materials is provided in Chapter 3.

Disconnecting the battery from the network

First of all, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal. Here you need a “10” wrench (see figure). Next, unscrew the filler plug, and then perform the following steps:

1. Make sure that the filler neck has been opened;
2. Use a 12mm spanner to unscrew the drain plug. It is not necessary to remove the crankcase protection (Fig. 1);

Unscrew the plug (Fig. 1)

Let the oil drain into a 4 liter container (Fig. 2)

Removing the filter (Fig. 3)

The rubber seal must be in oil (Fig. 4)

If the filter has been changed, add another 100 ml to the indicated figures. Steps 2, 3, 5 and 6 are illustrated in the photo.

The last step is to connect the battery to start the engine. It is necessary to ensure that the control lamp goes out. Then check the oil level using the dipstick and, if necessary, top up (100-200 ml).

This engine warning light should come on for a couple of seconds after starting.

The oil level dipstick will have MIN and MAX marks. What they mean is clear to everyone. By the way, the volume of the lubrication system is 3.5 liters, but 300-500 grams of “working off” always remains in the engine.

Choosing a puller

What kind of universal pullers have not been invented to make life easier for the car owner. But any puller always belongs to one of the types: chain, rod or plier puller. Each of the three types is illustrated in the photo.

Everyone knows that universal pullers are inconvenient to use. Yes, and they are expensive. Therefore, sanding paper, cloth gloves, etc. are used. But it often turns out that the filter is screwed on tightly.

The outer diameter of the Granta oil filter is 76 mm. A part manufactured by Renault can serve as a puller for it. This part is shown in the photo, and it is called a “cup puller”.

Oil filter puller Renault (7711381992)

The number of the specified part in the Renault catalog will be as follows: 7711381992. Typically, those who do not use pullers are recommended to do this:

1. It is necessary to pierce the filter housing with an awl or a flat screwdriver;
2. The screwdriver should go 40-50 mm into the filter cavity. It is then used as a lever.

Maybe these tips are worth considering. The main thing is that what is shown in the figure below does not happen.

Oil filter after replacement

Use common sense, and then everything will work out. Good luck.

You need to pierce the oil filter housing closer to its bottom. Otherwise, you may hit the engine fitting. By the way, a broken filter will leak waste. In general, the screwdriver method is used in extreme cases.

General issues

Let's consider general philistine questions about Granta and butter.

How to check the oil level in Grant

We check the level classically;

1. The car must be turned off for at least 5-10 minutes;
2. We take out the oil dipstick, wipe it with a rag and put it back;
3. We take it out and look at the light - the level should be between MIN and MAX.

The dipsticks on the Lada suffer from the fact that they are difficult to read. You may need to wipe and lower the dipstick again.

If the dipstick is very difficult to read, you can go through the area indicating the level with fine sandpaper. This matting shows the oil level more clearly.

When to change the oil of a VAZ 2190

According to the regulations, replacement on the Grant is required every 15,000 kilometers. Practical experience suggests replacement every 10,000 km. mileage, or once/twice a year.

The Grants are stuffed with Rosneft from the factory. The brand has not proven itself to be reliable and of high quality.

The first replacement occurs after the new car has been broken in - after 2000 km. This is not a requirement from the factory, but common sense - change the flooded s to something normal.

Service intervals

The oil change in engines 21116 and 11183 (86) is carried out every 15,000 km. But the first replacement is performed immediately after running-in (2500-3500 km). The last rule applies only to 8-valve engines. And also, according to AvtoVAZ recommendations, the filter needs to be changed every time you change the oil.

According to the rules in force since 2013, you need to visit a service center for maintenance at least once a year. At the same time, no replacements are made for cars with zero mileage.

Useful tips

The main recommendation of all auto mechanics is to make sure before purchasing that the product you are purchasing is not a counterfeit. To do this, you need to study the protection system developed by the manufacturer. The most commonly used are holograms, lids with complex seals, etc.

Another way to check is physical.

You need to drop the oil onto the newsprint and make sure that it:

• spreads in concentric rings;
• does not contain particles that remain on the surface after the liquid is absorbed.

An alternative is to place the mixture in the freezer. If after several hours its viscosity has not changed, the oil can be used.

Another recommendation for selecting oil is that you should not radically change the composition. It is best to choose a product of the quality class and manufacturing method that was used before. This primarily applies to cars with high mileage. If the owner has been filling in mineral or semi-synthetic oil with low characteristics for a long time, then replacing it with a synthetic product with detergent additives can worsen engine performance: old deposits will be broken up, and the resulting debris will clog the system.

Additional advice concerns changing the oil after break-in. Experienced car enthusiasts recommend updating the mixture filled at the factory after 2 thousand kilometers.

All replacement steps, example in video

The proper operation of the car is ensured not only by the quality of its components, but also by the working fluids and consumables used, which must be changed in a timely manner. These include the Lada Granta oil filter, which is replaced along with the engine oil. The procedure can be performed at home if you use the step-by-step instructions described in the article.

Reasons for rising oil levels

An increase in the amount of lubrication of the Lada Granta power unit occurs for the following reasons:

• Overfilling oil during replacement;
• Fuel getting into the lubricant due to engine malfunctions and other reasons;
• Penetration of antifreeze. This forms an emulsion of water, lubricating chemicals and coolant, noticeable on the dipstick. This happens if the cylinder head gasket is damaged or there are cracks in the cylinder block and its head.

Diagnosis and elimination of these problems, with the exception of banal overflow, are carried out in a car service center. Repairs are often expensive. But you should not delay with it, as this threatens to completely stop the Granta’s engine.

Removal and replacement instructions

The oil filter is changed according to the regulations along with replacing the engine lubricant. Lada Granta manufacturers recommend changing lubricants after 10-15 thousand kilometers. The period between replacements is affected by the operating conditions of the machine. If the car experiences increased loads, the service life should be halved.

Tools

To carry out the procedure for removing and replacing consumable filter elements on the Lada Granta, you will need the following materials and tools:

• set of wrenches;
• new oil filter;
• fresh motor oil;
• puller for unscrewing the filter;
• container for draining waste;
• clean rags;
• funnel.

To make work easier, the machine should be driven onto an overpass, inspection hole, or raised using a lift. You can use an empty oil canister or water bottle as a container.

Stages

The oil and oil filter must be changed on a warm Lada Granta after the trip. You should wait about 15 minutes for all the liquid to drain into the crankcase. After this, you can begin a phased replacement.

1. First you need to open the hood and unscrew the cap from the oil filler hole so that the lubricant is better than the glass.
2. Next, you should move under the car to drain the waste. To do this, you need to unscrew the drain plug.

   
   Using a wrench, unscrew the drain plug

Be careful not to get burned by the hot liquid that drains.

• You need to place a prepared drain container under the engine.
• While the waste is draining, you can replace the filter element. Using a puller, you need to unscrew the oil filter.

  
  Unscrew the old consumable using a puller

If you don't have a special key, you can try to unscrew it by hand. If that doesn’t work, you can use improvised means: a chain, a belt, a flat-head screwdriver, piercing the body with it and using it as a lever.

• The place where the filter was located must be wiped with a clean rag so that contaminants do not get into the new lubricant.
• Next, you need to take a new filter consumable and fill it halfway with fresh oil.

  
  Lubricate the rubber seal with oil

• The oil filter should be tightened by hand without force until the rubber band touches the cylinder block. Then the housing is rotated another ¾ turn.
• By tightening the plug on the drain neck, you can fill in new lubricant.
• After filling in the required amount of lubricant, you need to tighten the oil filler cap and start the engine for a few minutes.

During the operation of the Lada Granta car, it is necessary to constantly monitor the quality of the lubricating fluid and change it along with the oil filter on time.

Low oil level on Lada Granta

Often Grant owners are faced with an increase or decrease in the amount of lubricant in the power unit. This is usually detected by checking with a dipstick.

Both problems negatively affect engine performance and require immediate attention. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the cause and find ways to eliminate it.

The reasons for a decrease in lubricant level on Lada Granta are:

• Using oil with unsuitable characteristics;
• Problems in the crankcase ventilation system;
• Damaged gaskets or seals;
• Severe wear or defects in engine parts, typical of used cars or occurring after overheating.

These problems have serious consequences. The pressure of the lubricating fluid increases, the engine begins to experience oil starvation and wears out quickly.

If such problems are discovered, it is necessary to urgently take measures to eliminate them. Some problems can be fixed by yourself. But damage to engine elements on Grant requires professional intervention.

Top 2. LADA 2105-1012005-82

Rating (2020): 4.80

25 reviews from resources taken into account: Yandex.Market

• Nomination

  The best combination of price and quality

  Read also:  How to remove and wash the throttle valve of a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

  The domestic oil filter from the VAZ automobile plant has a better balance of performance characteristics and cost.

• Specifications Price: 267 rub.
• Country Russia
• Volume: 0.00063 m³
• Weight: 500 g

When deciding which oil filter to take as a replacement part, owners of an 8-valve Granta often choose a system from an official VAZ supplier. The model deserves a lot of positive reviews. Decent workmanship and efficiency of oil purification throughout the entire cycle are noted. The engine oil drained after use does not contain large fractions and is homogeneous - the filter reliably performs its function. The bypass valve eliminates oil starvation during startup, but Lada Granta owners often note that the pressure indicator sometimes does not light up immediately.

How to choose the right filter element for Granta?

Which filter is better is difficult to figure out the first time

During the tedious process of choosing a given “consumable”, you should pay attention to its features, the main ones of which are its geometric parameters. A large army of owners are puzzled by the estimated resource of the element indicated in the article - the oil filter

Regardless of the quality aspects of this product, it should be replaced at least after 5-7 thousand km of travel. In the opposite situation, it will become impossible to “vouch” for the safety and durability of the internal components of the motor.

To avoid mistakes with selection and subsequent replacement, you should carefully prepare. It is not recommended to forget about the “golden” rule: the lower the quality of the oil used, the sooner the oil filter will lose its condition. In view of the above, you should resort to purchasing and filling only high-quality oils from global manufacturing brands applicable to Lada Granta engines.

If you are wondering which filter to choose, then, armed with reviews from owners, you should consider the following options:

• “UNICO FILTER LI” (the filter has won praise from the majority of “Grantavods”);
• "MANN-FILTER W" (balanced product, but the price is steep);
• options with a more affordable price: “FIL FILTER ZP” or “PUROLATOR L”.

When making a purchase, we focus on the engine size and the operational requirements for a particular “consumable”.

Reviews

Ivan, Moscow, 25 years old: The original filter did not suit me, as it unexpectedly quickly fails - I refuel with inexpensive gasoline. Now I installed a Goodwill filter and am happy with everything, replacement is much cheaper, and the consumable itself lasts longer.

Daria, Tomsk, 31 years old: For several years now I have been installing only MF from Fortech on my car. The quality is excellent and the filters last longer than usual. The cost is higher than its analogues, but it suits me.

Alexey, Ufa, 29 years old: I recently changed filters for the first time and became interested in Logem brand products. because it was inexpensive. I've been using MF for several weeks now, the quality is amazing. Let's see how it behaves next.

Problem of choice

So, what kind of oil is better to fill in the Lada Granta? The manufacturer of the line advises using semi-synthetic lubricants produced by Russian manufacturers. The most common are Lukoil and Rosneft 5W-30. They are the ones that are poured at dealership centers during maintenance. However, some grant makers are in no hurry to follow AvtoVAZ’s recommendations. Therefore, they use analog lubricants.

Additional Information

When changing the oil, you will definitely need to change the oil filter. Naturally, the best option would be to install a “recommended” filter. However, as practice shows, even our domestic “Salyut” from Samara, which is produced for the VAZ-2108 model, can be used with exactly the same success.

"Oil fasting"

The filter replacement process itself will be standard. Just make sure that the oil from the filter does not get where it is not needed. But the new filter should be filled with fresh oil to approximately half. This must be done in several passes, since the viscous liquid does not penetrate through the holes very well.

Lubricate the oil filter

This “trick” is needed in order to prevent the so-called “oil starvation” of the engine in the first seconds after it is started. In addition, it would not be amiss to lubricate the rubber o-ring associated with this filter with the same oil.

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Oil level

The 16-valve engine is quite sensitive to oil level.

For example, if there is too much of it (above the maximum mark on the dipstick), then there is a fairly high risk of failure of the catalyst, as well as the sensor that controls the mass air flow. To avoid mistakes, the reflected light control technique is used, since the color of the oil will be close to transparent.

Can I use synthetic oil?

The 16-valve Lada Priora engine is famous for its ability to accept various types of oil well. In addition to semi-synthetics, which is considered the standard, synthetic motor oil also performs well. It is designed for modern 16-valve engines, so there will be no problems with leaking oil seals or burnout. In addition, this oil works well even in severe frost conditions. The engine will start at temperatures lower than those recommended by the manufacturer.

Which transmission filter is better to install?

There are a large number of transmission filters on sale, the price range is quite wide, and the quality can also vary greatly. In the selection process, you can easily get confused among this variety. Our recommendations are products from JS Asakashi. Its advantages:

• big choice;
• mechanical strength;
• effective oil purification even from the smallest particles;
• low cost compared to original consumables (with comparable quality).

You can buy JS Asakashi transmission filters (as well as other spare parts, components and consumables) in the SamAuto store. Qualified managers will definitely help you make the right choice and answer all your questions. Contact us, it’s profitable and convenient.

* Please check with our managers over the phone for the applicability of the parts specifically for your car.

The principle of rating construction

When choosing the best oil filter, you can only talk about a specific car. Our test object was one of the best-selling cars in Russia - Kia Rio 3 with a 1.6 liter engine. As a “reference point” we took the standard Kia oil filter number 26300-35503, which is also used on many other Korean cars. Its mounting dimensions are almost standard by modern standards: thread M20x1.5, body diameter - 78 mm (outer diameter of the sealing ring - 63 mm). Having selected the most popular oil filters from well-known brands, we divided them into two categories - undoubtedly recommended or optimal for replacement if there are no other options for purchase.

Unfortunately, only imported parts will take part in the test: although a number of Russian companies produce analogues (for example, Nevsky Filter), they are not widespread, and it is hardly worth recommending a product that is difficult to buy.

The Mahle brand offers a huge selection of components for engines, from cylinder-piston units to consumables for maintenance. Mahle is one of the main suppliers of automotive production, and in this case there is no point in repeating the high quality of products once again.

The oil filter we are considering rightfully takes first place in the ranking of the best: a high-quality, thick-walled housing not only withstands pressure in the oil system during a cold start without deformation, but also unscrews conveniently: when using disc pullers, the edges on thin-walled filters often roll off, and you have to use “ the old-fashioned method with chain pullers and other, even less convenient methods. The bypass valve is calibrated for a pressure difference of 1 bar - with synthetic oil of the recommended viscosity for the Kia Rio, it will be securely closed, protecting the engine from the penetration of unclean oil. Fans of cheap semi-synthetic oils should be careful in winter - trying to drive with a cold engine will not be the best choice.

• Prevalence.
• Exact fit of the seat to the car.
• High quality workmanship.

Not detected.

The second indisputably recommended oil filter also has German roots, although the production of Bosch products has long been distributed throughout the world - for example, our “experimental” one comes from South Africa. In terms of area, it can be considered the leader in the test: a solid cartridge made of evenly laid corrugated paper occupies almost the entire 80 mm body. This did not affect the performance of the bypass valve - it is recessed inside the filter element, has a decent area and opens exactly at 1 bar of pressure difference.

The only thing I can find fault with is the anti-drainage valve - it works noticeably hard, although the manufacturer indicates an opening pressure of 0.12 bar, but it still has more resistance than Mahle. For a healthy engine this will not be a problem, but since the softer valve on the Mahle also effectively prevents the outflow of oil from the filter, this coarsening will still not benefit the overall rating score. The oil filter for the Kia Rio, manufactured by Bosch, takes a solid second place in the Price Expert's list of recommendations.

• High quality filtration, long resource.
• Exact compliance with the manufacturer's requirements.

Less balanced design than Mahle.

The MANN company is no less well-known supplier of consumables for automobile plant conveyors than Mahle. However, in our case, they failed to surpass their colleagues: this oil filter has a smaller height and, accordingly, filter element area than the Mahle OC205, therefore, it will be the best choice only for relatively little worn engines, into which synthetic oil with low and stable viscosity. In this case, faster clogging during the run between oil changes will not play a significant role, but the reduced height will make installation easier in a tight engine compartment.

How to unscrew it if it's stuck?

I’ll tell you a few ways that will 100% help you unscrew this element, so here we go:

Trite with your hands. Often you just don’t have enough strength, just call a “more powerful” person and everything can work out. I will say this in 80% of cases they unscrew it by hand. YES, and you need to tighten it again with your hands, tightly! IT'S ENOUGH!

Special key. I already wrote about it once, you can, of course, it’s not always at hand, but if you have a friend with a car, he can drive to almost any spare parts store and buy it. I personally even saw it in several supermarkets, the cost is a penny, about 200 - 300 rubles. Everything with it is quite easy and simple, we hook it on and unscrew it, of course, the body of the element will get wrinkled, but actually we don’t need it anymore.

Rope and screwdriver (another lever). Sometimes they also use an old alternator or timing belt. What we do is twist a loop around the filter, tighten it with a screwdriver, tightly. And we try to unscrew it. The main thing is that the rope or belt does not slip.

A hammer and a long, strong screwdriver. Actually, this method is used to unscrew most intractable filter elements. Since the walls of the element are soft, they are usually aluminum, or tin, and other soft metals. It breaks through very easily (just like a tin can). What we do is drive a long and strong screwdriver all the way through, that is, so that it goes in on one side and comes out on the other. And then we unscrew it like a lever. The most important thing is that everything can be done without a special key, and actually using the tools that are always in the garage. The only downside is that your hands are dirty, because some of the oil is always inside.

Hammer and chisel. This is generally the method that they say “ATAS”, there is nothing to explain here, we take a chisel and “fuck” it with a hammer, the most important thing is to hit closer to the bottom, to the place of fastening, and counterclockwise. The case, of course, will be all dented, but the most important thing is to unscrew it. The downside here is not only that you can get dirty, but also that you can hit the engine block with a chisel. I personally recommend the method with a screwdriver, it is still less dangerous.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, you can do without a special key, just pierce the housing with a screwdriver.

Changing the oil on a Grant is a simple process, but dirty. If there is a hole or lift, it can be done in 20-30 minutes. The main thing is to get a filter remover and know the procedure. Let's look at everything step by step.

How to tell if your transmission filter is clogged and how to change it

Since getting a filter and assessing its condition visually is problematic (often you need to disassemble the entire automatic transmission), it is worth knowing about the signs of its contamination. Among them:

• when switching the gearbox, there is no push that accompanies the inclusion of speed, the car does not move in any direction;
• there is a push, but the car does not move or slips;
• untimely gear shifting (appears mainly at speeds above standard values);
• clutch slipping when changing gears.

Before replacing the filter, you first need to find out exactly where it is located. To do this, you should read the repair instructions for your car brand. After the filter location has been installed, you must:

• disassemble the gearbox housing (you will need a set of tools);
• remove the plates covering the filter;
• remove the old filter and install a new one in its place;
• assemble the gearbox.