Adjusting the sorcerer viburnum station wagon

A brake force regulator, or sorcerer in common parlance, is a mechanical device designed to relieve excess pressure in the rear drum brakes.

On VAZ-2109, VAZ-2108, VAZ-2114 and other front-wheel drive models produced in Togliatti, it was installed in the rear left part of the body, under the bottom, in front of the rear suspension beam. The brake pressure regulator on the VAZ-2107 model and other “classics” is located on the right in the direction of travel of the car.

New vehicles equipped with ABS and EBD do not use the sorcerer.

Why do you need a brake force regulator?

The function of the regulator is to temporarily reduce the braking force during heavy braking. The fact is that force evenly distributed on the rear and front axles can lead to a skid of the car. If the rear brakes start working a little later and weaker than the front ones, this does not happen.

Based on the above, we can conclude that the sorcerer is an element of the car’s safety system, partly preserving its stability on the road when the brake pedal is pressed in an emergency. On modern models, this function is performed by ABS. That is why there is no need today to use a technically outdated device in production.

How does a sorcerer work?

The regulator itself consists of a cylinder, valve, spring and rod. The latter is connected to the rear beam, which ensures the operation of the VAZ-2109 sorcerer. Also, brake fluid circuits pass through the rear brake pressure regulator. For their mounting on the device there are 4 threaded entries. » alt=»»> How does the sorcerer regulator work on a VAZ? During emergency braking, the front of the car is pressed to the ground, and the rear is raised. This causes the regulator rod to move, which blocks the flow of fluid to the rear cylinders. A spring located under the valve prevents it from closing completely. Therefore, the rear mechanisms still work, but later and weaker than the front ones.

Replacement

Replacing the sorcerer with a VAZ-2109 is performed as follows. You will need a 13 mm wrench, a powerful screwdriver, and a special wrench for unscrewing the brake pipes. Before work, you need to clean the part from rust, pour it with WD-40 or a similar liquid and wait.

You need to start by unscrewing the bolt that secures the bracket to the spring. Then unscrew the brake pipes. Having unscrewed the fittings, unscrew the bolts securing the part to the body and the sorcerer can be removed.

Where is the brake pressure regulator on a VAZ?

On many VAZ cars, the sorcerer is located mainly in the rear of the car, but so that you understand immediately and in the future you do not have questions about this, we note that on VAZ cars with the ABS system the sorcerer is not installed.

If we take cars of modern production, such as: “Priora”, “Kalina”, “Granta” as well as “VAZ 2108-VAZ 2115” and other modern cars, then on them the sorcerer is mainly located on the left side, the detailed location of the sorcerer is indicated in the photo below:

If you take cars of the classic family, people also call them “Classics”, then on them the sorcerer is located in the right rear part of the car body, see the photo below for more details:

Note! The location of the sorcerer is indicated by the number “1”!

Possible malfunctions of the regulator

In general, there are few malfunctions that can occur in the sorcerer. These include:

Valve jamming;
Misalignment of position;
Brake fluid leaks.

A deregulated sorcerer can be adjusted. You can determine the need for adjustment by the behavior of the car when you press the brake. If the regulator is set incorrectly, the car starts to toss to the side.

If the valve jams or fluid leaks, the mechanism must be replaced. Theoretically, it can be repaired. However, the process of such repairs is complex and expensive, which makes it unprofitable.

Brake pressure regulator: replacement and adjustment

One of the reasons for a vehicle to pull or skid to the side when braking is a malfunction of the brake pressure regulator (also called the “sorcerer”). The most common causes of pressure regulator malfunction are brake fluid leakage, air in the brake system, damage to the rubber seal, damage to the rubber hose. In some cases, pumping air from the brake system, replacing the seal or hose will help, however, in most cases the problem can only be solved by replacement.

You can replace the sorcerer in the car yourself; for this you need a household set of tools - a wrench and pliers. The brake system of the Zhiguli is one of the most primitive in the world, and even if the driver has never done this before, then if you follow the instructions, he will have a minimum of problems during replacement (if any).

Setting the brake force regulator

Adjustment of the sorcerer should be done on an overpass or inspection hole. At the same time, the car is unloaded and driven to the work site. To perform the manipulation you will need:

Socket wrench 13 or corresponding socket;
Drill diameter 2 mm.

To adjust the sorcerer, use a wrench to loosen the bolt securing it to the lever bracket. Next, use a screwdriver to move the bracket until the resulting gap allows you to insert a prepared two-millimeter drill into it. After this, the bolt is tightened.

Note: the brake pressure regulator of the VAZ-2110 and previous VAZ models turns sour during operation so that it is not possible to move its bracket. In such a situation, you should pour WD-40 liquid over the rusted area, wait 15-30 minutes, and then use a hammer to move the part to the side using a soft drift.

Malfunctions of the sorcerer on viburnum

The braking system of a car is an important safety element.
Its good condition can save lives in case of road accidents. One of the most peculiar components is the rear brake pressure regulator, colloquially known as the sorcerer. This name appeared with the first Zhiguli cars because of its mystery and unknown operating principle. The VAZ 2110 sorcerer has a catalog number starting with 2108, and is used, in addition to the tenth family, on other VAZ cars: Samara, Kalina and Priora.
Check
Symptoms of a malfunction of the sorcerer on the VAZ 2110 appear when braking:
The car pulls to the side; Skidding; Insufficient brake performance. The VAZ 2110 has a sorcerer on a bracket under the bottom, slightly to the left, in the area of the rear wheels. It is better to work with it on a lift, overpass or inspection hole. The main defects are easily detected during external inspection. Brake fluid leaks indicate wear or damage to the seals.

If the sorcerer's piston has turned sour and does not move, then this is also determined visually when the assistant smoothly presses the brake pedal several times. In both cases, repair is impractical and replacement is necessary.

Everything is in order if the regulator is clean, the gap between the drive lever and the plate is 2 mm, the rod moves when the pedal is pressed.
A working sorcerer must ensure:
Uniformity of braking forces on the rear wheels; Rear brakes engage later than front brakes; Adjustment of this delay, depending on the vehicle load.

Removal and installation
To replace the sorcerer on a VAZ 2110, you need wrenches 13 and 10. Instead of 10, a special wrench for brake fittings is very desirable; it is more gentle than a regular open-end wrench when handling soft copper nuts due to the large contact area.
This type of wrench is similar to a socket wrench, but has a slot for inserting a tube into it and high jaws.
You need about half a liter of brake fluid and 4 rubber plugs for the brake hoses. AvtoVAZ cast iron and Belarusian aluminum regulators are sold in VAZ spare parts stores. Russian VIS is usually more reliable, Belarusian Fenox is lighter and cheaper. The conditions under the bottom are unfavorable for the sorcerer, so you first need to clean the dirt with a stiff brush and moisten the threaded connections with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. The fixing bracket is removed from the rear beam; if necessary, you can use a powerful screwdriver to loosen it. The brake pipes are carefully unscrewed, marked for reassembly, and closed with rubber plugs. To dismantle the regulator, it is more convenient to unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket to the bottom and remove the sorcerer assembly. During installation, the regulator fastening bolts (attention, the front bolt is longer than the rear), through elongated holes, are not fully tightened to the bracket to ensure movement during adjustment. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order; for reliability, the clamp-clamp on the beam must be crimped with pliers. To remove air from the system, it is necessary to bleed the brakes after work.
It’s easier to do this together, the process has been described many times, including for the VAZ 2110-2112. When replacing the sorcerer, it is enough to bleed only the rear brakes. Adjustment
The work of the sorcerer on VAZ cars depends on the position of the body.
Therefore, adjustment must be performed not only during each maintenance, but also when replacing shock absorbers and springs, after repairing the rear beam and, of course, replacing the sorcerer itself. The car is placed on an overpass or inspection hole, to install the suspension in an equilibrium position, it swings a couple of times hands trunk. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the fastening bolts to the bracket; the front bolt is not visible from below, you need to find it by touch. By moving the regulator, a gap of 2 mm is achieved between the elastic plate (the rod rests against it) and the lever.
The spring resistance is high, you need to use a “mounter” or a special device. The bolts are tightened and the gap is checked with a feeler gauge. In the absence of a probe, you can use a drill with a diameter of 2 mm and even a two-ruble coin. Further checking is carried out on the go. When braking from a speed of 40 km/h, on your own or with the help of a partner outside the car, evaluate the moment when the rear mechanisms begin to operate compared to the front ones. If it needs to be done later, then the gap must be increased, and if it is smaller, then, accordingly, reduced.
Useful tips
The effectiveness of rear axle braking, in addition to the sorcerer, is affected by:

Examination

The operation of the VAZ-2109, 2110 and other AvtoVAZ models is checked on the move, in closed areas. To do this, accelerate the car to a speed of 40 km/h and sharply press the brake. The rear wheels should lock 1/2 second later than the front wheels.

The wheels are monitored by an assistant located outside the car. If wheel locking occurs noticeably later or does not occur at all, and also if the rear axle is locked simultaneously with the front, the sorcerer adjustment procedure is repeated.

To increase the response time of the rear brakes, the gap between the adjuster and the bracket is increased; to shorten it, it is reduced accordingly.

How does the brake force regulator - sorcerer - work?

What is the "Sorcerer" for? This is a rather mysterious detail and no one has found a clear answer to this question. Perhaps this is why he was colloquially called a “sorcerer”, because he works magically. At its core, this part performs a similar function to the anti-lock braking system, preventing the wheels of the rear axle from locking during emergency braking. Its operation directly depends on the position of the rear axle relative to the car body: when braking sharply, the car nose-dives, and the rear part of the body rises, after which the “witchcraft” begins - the brake force regulator partially blocks the flow of fluid, and the rear wheels do not lock.

Of course, in ideal conditions (dry asphalt, straight road, working brake system and chassis), the brake force regulator does its job perfectly. But such conditions do not always occur.

Device Description

The design and principle of operation of this element are quite simple. At the moment when the rear part of the car body rises and the distance between the axle and the body increases, a special lever is activated, which is connected in a “sorcerer”. This lever lowers the piston, which closes the brake fluid channel, and accordingly the pressure on the rear pads decreases. The wheels do not stop rotating and, accordingly, do not skid.

The idea itself is quite clever, but, as often happens, in practice it raises doubts. After all, if when braking the brake pedal is pressed with great force, then the front wheels go into skid and the car still begins to skid. Quite often, when observing a traffic accident, you will notice that the cars with the “sorcerer” are turned backwards. Is this related to this miracle detail, which in its essence should prevent this skidding?

Design and principle of operation of the regulator

The VAZ brake pressure regulator is included in the drive circuit, which ensures the activation of the brake mechanisms of the rear wheel pair. Its main functional task is to correct the pressure in the drive circuit of the rear brake mechanisms, depending on the position of the car body relative to the rear axle, or on the vehicle load. The nature of its operation is similar to the operation of a limit valve, since it also interrupts the flow of brake fluid to the rear brake mechanisms, thereby minimizing the likelihood of “skidding” of the rear wheel pair.

The main structural elements of the pressure regulator are:

Torsion lever (item 1).

The regulator is mounted using a bracket and is connected to the rear axle beam using a torsion lever and rod. In addition, in the internal space of the regulator housing there are two cavities, one of which (pos. A) is connected to the main brake cylinder (hereinafter referred to as the GTZ), and the other (pos. B) is connected to the wheel brake cylinders.

The inoperative state of the regulator assumes the following positions of the main elements:

The torsion lever and spring (pos. 9) exert pressure on the piston (pos. 10), which rests against the plug (pos. 6).

In this case, gaps are formed between cavities “A” and “B”, which makes it possible to equalize the pressure in them and in the hydraulic brake drive.

During the braking process, under the influence of inertial forces, the rear of the vehicle moves upward, which helps to reduce the pressure from the torsion arm on the piston. Due to the larger area of the upper end of the piston, the pressure force acting on it will exceed the counter pressure force, which will lead to the lowering of the piston. At the moment the piston reaches the lower position and enters the seal, the communication between cavities “A” and “B” is interrupted, which initiates the occurrence of a pressure difference in them. The pressure in cavity “B” will decrease by an amount that determines the balance of the piston, that is, the amount of braking torque in the brake mechanisms of the rear wheel pair is adjusted.

Signs of a malfunctioning brake force regulator

“Sorcerer”, as an element of the braking system, has a number of signs of malfunction that manifest themselves during emergency braking. Let's look at the first symptoms that call for checking the regulator:

When braking hard, the car pulls to the side.
Reduced braking efficiency (feels).
“Bouncing” and jerking of the car when braking.

In such cases, it is necessary to check not only the “sorcerer”, but also other components of the brake system and chassis. But, since we are talking about the brake force regulator on the VAZ, we will consider this particular mechanism. After placing the car on a lift, pay attention to the regulator. The most common sign of its malfunction is the presence of brake fluid leaks. In case of any malfunction, the best solution is to replace the sorcerer. But, if you still decide to repair the brake force regulator, then below we have prepared brief instructions for this action.

Brake adjusters (sorcerer)

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Sorcerer repair

In order to repair the brake force regulator, you need to perform a number of actions:

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Dismantling. We remove the entire assembly, using wrenches 10 and 13. The brake pipes are unscrewed, the brake fluid is drained and plugs are installed in the pipes. Next, the “sorcerer” body is removed, which is attached to the bottom with two nuts.
Diagnostics and replacement of “sorcerer” parts. Carefully examine the surface of the “Sorcerer”. If necessary, replace faulty parts (sealing rubber bands) using a repair kit. A soured piston cannot be repaired and requires a complete replacement of the unit.
Installation of the sorcerer. Reassemble and adjust the part in reverse order and bleed the brake system. Add brake fluid.

How to replace the brake pressure regulator in a VAZ 2110?

1. The first thing to do is to release the regulator drive lever; to do this, lift the bracket up. If necessary, use a screwdriver to loosen the earring bracket. All manipulations are performed with a key of 10.

2. After disconnecting the lever, carefully remove the earring bracket.

3. Prepare a container; it needs to be placed under the junction of the regulator with the pipes; brake fluid will flow out of it. We disconnect the four tubes by unscrewing the fastening nuts. We wait until the liquid drains. We plug the holes in the tubes; this can be done, for example, with caps on the cylinder bleeder valves. It is recommended to mark the tubes so that during further installation you will not confuse them.

4. Unscrew the front bolt securing the bracket with the regulator.

5. We unscrew the rear bolt, which we hold the regulator on the side of the bracket, after which we remove the regulator (sorcerer), without unscrewing the drive.

6. If you need to replace drive parts, unscrew the bolt that holds the locking lever and disconnect the drive lever from the elastic lever.

7. When you connect the drive lever to the elastic lever, following the sequence, the clamp fork should fit into the groove on the elastic lever.

8. Next, install the brake pressure regulator in the same order as we removed it

Please note that the front mounting bolt is slightly longer than the rear

9. When replacing, it may be that the lever spring begins to protrude, thereby interfering with the installation of the regulator. To avoid problems, move the drive lever as far forward as possible beyond the protrusion.

10. Installation is complete, now crimp the earring brackets with pliers. To make sure that the system is working, pump and adjust the pressure.

Video about removing (removing) the sorcerer on a Renault Logan car:

Adjusting the braking forces of Lada Vesta

The operating principle of the system that regulates and distributes brake fluid pressure on Lada Vesta cars is fundamentally different from previous models, and there is no “witchcraft” in it. The Lada Vesta brake pressure regulator is directly connected to the ABS system and is electronically regulated depending on the speed of each wheel.

The ABS control unit transmits signals from speed sensors and analyzes the situation. The system “understands” any skidding and allows you to distribute the braking force with maximum efficiency. The pressure is controlled by the valves in the ABS hydraulic block, and there is no need for any magic. In addition, the electronics itself detects all malfunctions and reports them to the driver using a special lamp on the dashboard.

Many people have heard that there is a “sorcerer” in the braking systems of VAZ cars, but not everyone knows about the importance of this device. We evaluate its impact on braking efficiency.

“The sorcerer”, or, according to the catalogue, the pressure regulator in the brake drive, it was not for nothing that people received such an apt nickname: no one really knows how it works, but, they say, being faulty, it can present an unpleasant surprise - make the car dance in an emergency. braking. This is where the insidiousness of the “sorcerer” lies: during normal operation, without braking to the floor, its work or inaction is practically not felt, but when its help is especially needed, it may not come. The pistons have soured, the rod or drive lever has broken off, or you installed a new one instead of a faulty regulator, but for the time being you do not know that the unit is defective or misadjusted. How dangerous is this?

Let’s check in our experiment how “witchcraft” affects the effectiveness of the brakes at partial and full load of the Chevrolet Niva and Kalina and what the owner should be wary of if he does not monitor the condition of the regulator. We can simulate a malfunction, from excessive activity to complete inaction, with adjustments. Let us remind you that the regulator’s task is to reduce the braking force on the rear axle, reducing the likelihood of skidding when braking to skid. The regulator, mounted on the body and connected by an elastic lever to the axle beam, limits the pressure in the rear brake mechanisms depending on the position of the rear of the body relative to the road, that is, on the vehicle load.

Replacing the brake pressure regulator on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Today you will read detailed instructions on how to replace the sorcerer on cars of the Samara family. The first question you ask yourself will sound like this: “What kind of sorcerer, I was looking for instructions for replacing the pressure regulator?” We will explain everything to you in order. The so-called name “Sorcerer” came from the people, and “Brake Pressure Regulator” is its real name.

Note! To replace the pressure regulator, you will need the following tools: First, be sure to stock up on a screwdriver and a small set of basic wrenches. And also for the convenience of unscrewing some nuts, you can stock up on an extension cord with a union head!

Replacing the brake pressure regulator
To remove the regulator together with the bracket
To remove the regulator without bracket
Disassembling the brake pressure regulator
Additional video clip

Where is the brake pressure regulator located? The pressure regulator is located on the left side of the body compartment, closer to the rear wheel. But to find it you will need to know what it looks like, if you still don’t understand what it looks like, then look at the very first photo at the top of the article. If you already know what it looks like, then look at the bottom photo where the red arrow indicates its location.

When should you change your brake pressure regulator? The regulator must be replaced if:

Its breakdowns can be very easily identified. Usually, with a faulty regulator, when braking sharply, the car skids, which can be very life-threatening if you are driving on the highway.

Note! With a working regulator, when braking sharply, the car does not go anywhere, that is, it brakes strictly in a straight line, but there is one “But!” The pressure regulator only works when, when braking, the nose of the car goes down and its rear part rises. Otherwise, the sorcerer will not work!

Replacing the brake pressure regulator:

Note! It is recommended to replace a faulty sorcerer with a new assembled one!

Removal: 1) First you will need to drive your car into the inspection hole.

2) Next, use a screwdriver to slightly lift up the bracket of the lever earring; for clarity, it is indicated by a red arrow.

3) Then remove the lever from the hole in the shackle and, as a result, remove the shackle bracket from the lever.

4) Then, using a wrench, unscrew the fittings of all pipes connected to the pressure regulator.

Note! Before unscrewing them, be sure to mark which tube goes where. If you have not done this, then when installing a new sorcerer, watch the video at the very bottom, which describes the correct connection of the tubes!

5) And after unscrewing the fittings, disconnect the brake hose tubes from the regulator.

Note! It is best to plug the holes in the brake pipes with something, because otherwise fluid will leak from the hydraulic drive of the system!

To remove the regulator together with the bracket: 1) Using an extension with a union head, unscrew the two nuts that secure the bracket to the body and then remove it together with the regulator.

To remove the regulator without a bracket: 1) Using a wrench, unscrew the two bolts that secure the sorcerer body to the bracket and then remove the regulator separately.

Installation: 1) Installation of a new brake pressure regulator is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Note! To connect the tubes to the regulator, use the video located at the bottom of the article!

After final installation of the regulator, be sure to bleed the brake system! (How to bleed the brakes, see the article: “Bleeding the brakes on a VAZ”)

And finally, adjust the regulator drive! (For how to adjust the regulator, see the article “Adjusting the rear brake pressure regulator”)

Disassembling the brake pressure regulator:

Disassembly is carried out only to replace individual parts, but as mentioned above, it is best to replace the sorcerer as an assembly and not individually.

1) First, remove the drive arms and bracket from the regulator.

2) Next, taking the bracket in your hands, use a wrench to unscrew the bolt that secures the latch.

Note! After unscrewing the bolt, remove the clamp that holds the elastic lever!

3) Finally, disconnect both drive levers from each other.

Additional video: Don’t know where to screw the brake pipes onto the sorcerer? If not, then watch a video specially prepared for you, in which everything is indicated and explained in detail.

Vaz-Russia.ru

"CHEVROLE-NIVA"

By the way, before testing tires on cars without ABS, each time we slightly adjust the regulator taking into account the road condition (snow, ice, asphalt), ensuring that the rear wheels lock a little later than the front ones. Let's not break tradition. Our Shniva found the gap between the cheeks of the regulator to be 16 mm, which was adjusted using a stop screw.

Several brakings, and the braking distance from 80 km/h for a car with a partial load is determined: 34.4 m. With a full load... 33.6! Almost a meter shorter! At the same time, the driver noted a heavier pedal and rapid heating of the brakes, which required cooling before each measurement. Let’s remember these parameters and make adjustments to the “sorcerer” adjustment. First, let's reduce the gap to 8 mm. Now the regulator significantly limits the pressure in the rear brakes, transferring almost all the hard work to the front ones.

Braking has become more difficult, keeping the front wheels from skidding is not so easy - they lock very sharply and the car, naturally, loses control. However, the result, to our surprise, is the same as in the basic version: 34.4 m. At full load, you have to press the pedal much harder, the front brakes begin to overheat. The result is 37.8 m. This is 4.2 m more than with the basic adjustment (33.6 m).

"Chevrolet Niva"

The third state - we reduce the influence of the regulator by increasing the gap from the original one by 8 mm, that is, we set it to 24 mm. When there are two people in the car, the braking distance remains virtually unchanged - 34.3 m. However, now the rear wheels are blocked. But at full load the braking is very effective, the deceleration is easy to control and the result is a record: only 30.8 m!

In the normal position of the regulator, as the vehicle's weight increases, its braking distance decreases - this affects the more complete use of the traction weight by the rear wheels.

The best braking is at full load, when the regulator minimally limits the pressure in the rear brakes.

However, at partial load this can lead to skidding. The high center of gravity and short wheelbase of the Shnivy contribute to a significant redistribution of mass during braking, therefore, at partial load, the contribution of the rear axle to braking is small.

"LADA KALINA"

We set the regulator so that the rear is slightly late in locking the wheels. With this setting and partial load, the car needed only 27 m to stop. Fully loaded - 29.5 m. There are slight difficulties in preventing the front wheels from skidding. We reduce the gap in the regulator to zero - the half-empty Kalina stops after 31.8 m. The braking distance increases by 4.8 m, accompanied by a sharp blocking of the front wheels. The loaded one slows down after 35.2 m, the deterioration is even greater - 5.7 m! The pedal effort is increased and the brakes become noticeably hot.

Now we move the adjuster so that the rear brakes work as efficiently as possible. At partial load, the rear wheels suddenly lock and the car drifts off course—you have to release the pedal. On the verge of blocking it is very difficult to brake. The result is 30 m, which is 3 m worse than the “norm”. Full load gave a result of 26.9 m, which is 2.6 m better than the base (29.5 m). There are no comments regarding deceleration control. At the basic position of the regulator, the braking distance increases with increasing load. At partial load the spread of results is 4.8 m, so the base position is most effective. When you deviate from it in any direction, the braking distance increases.

On a fully loaded vehicle, depending on the position of the regulator, the spread of the braking distance is 8.3 m.

The best results, as on the Niva, come with increasing pressure in the rear brakes.

However, on a slippery road, even in smooth turns, early locking of the rear wheels is possible, leading to a skid.

And at partial load, with the regulator position different from the base one, the braking distance only increases.

Brake system "Lada Kalina": diagram, mechanism and system design

One of the disadvantages of the ABS of this car, like many others, is the possible failure of the electrical part of the control unit. Bad roads and shaking may destroy the soldering (or the soldering from the factory was initially of poor quality), and the ABS will fail. If liquid gets into the block, a short circuit occurs, oxidation and subsequent rotting of the components. The main thing is not to hesitate and immediately take it to a service center or manually clean the board and solder the questionable elements. ABS repairs are carried out by automotive electricians.

Lada Kalina, Granta and Priora became cars of a new generation, replacing the Sputniks and Samaras. Let's figure out whether the Kalina's braking system is different from these old cars, and how it works.

How does the Kalina brake system work?

The Kalina's braking system is designed similarly to many budget cars. In case of brake failure, engineers placed two independent circuits located diagonally. Each will be able to brake if the other one fails. The front contour includes the right front and left rear wheels, and the second contour includes the rear right and left front. The system is designed in the same way for cars with manual and automatic transmission.

Luxury and sports versions have an anti-lock wheel system (ABS), which greatly reduces the braking distance of an unprepared driver. These same modifications boast rear disc brakes. In the poor and regular trim levels, there are ventilated discs in sizes 13 and 14 at the front, and conventional drum brakes at the rear. On the dashboard there is a series of indicators indicating what is happening in the system.

Overview of individual elements

Diagram of the Kalina brake system:

Brake system diagram

1, 5, 13, 16	Brake mechanism of the Kalina front wheel, including pads, caliper, disc, cylinder
13, 16	Brake mechanism of the Kalina rear wheel - pads, drum, cylinder
2, 6, 12, 17	Hoses going to the cylinders
3, 7, 11, 18	Tubes
4	Brake Master Cylinder (Brake Master Cylinder)
8	GTZ tank
9	Vacuum brake booster (VUT)
10	Brake pedal
14	Fluid pressure regulator in the TC of the rear wheels
15	Regulator knob

GTZ and brake pedal

The main brake cylinder has not undergone any changes compared to previous Lada models like the VAZ-2110. It is attached to the vacuum brake booster and the force from the brake pedal is transmitted through the VUT.

On top there is a tank with two sections and with measuring notches to control the liquid level. A sensor located in the reservoir lights up an indicator on the dashboard when the brake fluid level drops.

Tubes extend from the GTZ to both circuits. It is due to the main cylinder that the fault tolerance of the entire structure increases. When the vacuum booster rod enters the cylinder and pushes the first piston, the primary circuit pressure increases and the brakes are applied. Due to the pressure, the second circuit also operates synchronously, providing uniform force on both axes.

Master brake cylinder

Since the car is front-wheel drive, the circuits are located diagonally, evenly distributing the force in case of failure of one of the circuits. For rear-wheel drive vehicles, the contours are divided into axles:

first circuit – front axle;
the second is the back.

The brake pedal is standard. The exact same one is installed on many Lada cars, there are no differences. It is attached directly to the vacuum booster.

The brake pedal article number is 1118-3504010. Price around 300 rubles;

GTZ article number – 1118-350501082. Costs about 1500-2000 rubles.

The vacuum brake booster, like power steering, is designed to reduce the amount of force applied. The driver of a car without VUT would have to press the brake pedal hard, reducing safety and driving comfort.

The vacuum unit works due to the difference in air pressure that creates force. It consists of two chambers - atmospheric, into which ambient air enters, and vacuum, connected to the exhaust pipe of the engine.

Vacuum brake booster

Structurally, the VUT consists of the following components:

chambers – atmospheric and vacuum;
pedal pusher;
check and follow-up valves;
return spring;
hydraulic cylinder rod;
separation membrane;
mechanism body.

The design of the VUT has not changed since the VAZ-2108, so any one will do, starting with this car.

Article number VUT – 11180-3510010-11. You can buy it for about 2500 rubles.

Lines and hoses

The tubes are interchangeable with Granta. There are 4 of them in total. The first two stretch from the main brake cylinder and go to the front wheel mechanisms. The second go from the GTZ to the pressure regulator next to the rear axle. They cost a little - 100-300 rubles.

There are four brake hoses on the Kalina, and they stretch from the cylinders to the pipes going to the GTZ and VUT. The prices are similar - about 200 rubles.

Pressure regulator

The unit was borrowed from a VAZ-2108 car. The essence of the work is to adjust the fluid pressure in the brakes on the rear axle. Correction is made depending on the load on the rear axle.

Article – 21080-3512010-00. It costs around 1500 rubles.

Brake cylinders for front and rear wheels

The brake cylinder is the final element of the system that runs from the pedal pressed by the driver to the disc itself. When the pressure in the line increases due to the incompressible fluid, the cylinder piston presses the pads against the disc, performing braking. The piston is located in the caliper, and to remove it, the caliper must be removed.

The main disadvantage of brake cylinders is the possible ingress of fluid and oxidation. A soured piston will not move; you will have to remove the wheel and caliper to change the cylinder. There is no point in cleaning it. If the boot lets liquid through, a similar phenomenon will happen again.

The TC deteriorates if the pads are not changed for a long time. The piston will extend to a maximum depth not intended by the manufacturer and may become misaligned.

Brake cylinder (rear)

The rear and front RTCs are completely different. In the brake mechanism of the Kalina front wheel, the RTCs press the pads against the disc. The front ones, like many elements, come from the VAZ-2108, but the rear ones were installed from the VAZ-2105. The front ones also differ on the sides (right or left). In the Kalina rear wheel brake system, the working cylinder presses the pads against the drum.

The article number of the front right RTC is 21080-3501044-82. Price approximately 600 rubles;

The article number of the front left RTC is 21080-3501045-82. Costs about 600 rubles;

The rear RTC article number is 21050-3502040-00. The price is approximately 400 rubles.

ABS – anti-lock braking system. The Kalina braking system with ABS prevents wheel locking, maintaining controllability and reducing the braking distance. This system also controls the braking of each of the 4 wheels, maintaining stability by changing the fluid pressure in the RTC. When cornering, the braking force on each side is also controlled and different to avoid the vehicle skidding.

The ABS system itself on Kalina consists of:

speed sensors and rotors on both axes;
hydraulic unit;
electronic part;
hydromodulator;
solenoid valves;
return pump.

ABS system on Kalina

The speed sensor is similar to an electric motor. When the wheel rotates, an electrical signal is generated to the control unit, by the frequency of which the unit understands the speed of this very wheel. Then the microcontroller calculates how much the braking force on the wheel needs to be reduced or increased and sends a signal to the hydraulic modulator. It regulates the fluid pressure in the cylinders. If the pressure is too low, excess brake fluid goes back into the turbocharger.

Dashboard indicators

Sensors related to the brake system:

ABS system status indicator. Lights up when there is a system malfunction.
Brake system indicator. Lights up when the fluid level is low or there is another malfunction of its components. Located next to the ABS lamp.
ESC indicator. Since the information is based on ABS sensors, it can also be classified as a brake system. Flashes when the system is activated or lights up when there is a malfunction. The inscription ESC OFF indicates that the system is disabled.
Handbrake indicator. Lights up when the car is on the handbrake.

Basic faults

Frequent malfunctions of the Kalina brake system include:

increase in braking distance;
increasing the brake pedal travel;
extraneous sounds from the brakes;
increased effort when pressing the pedal;
skidding or drift when braking;
incomplete release of the brakes on one or all wheels.

Such malfunctions can occur for many reasons and require comprehensive diagnostics at a car service center.

Diagnostics

If you are an experienced motorist, you can search for a faulty unit in your garage. Most often they are logical and easy to find. If you don’t have such experience, it’s better to contact a good car service center. The brake system is not particularly expensive to repair.

Service

Maintenance consists of inspecting all components and replacing them in case of wear. All service looks like this:

checking the brake pedal travel;
checking and possible adjustment of the parking brake (Kalina has a handbrake from “nine”, so it must be tightened often);
inspection of all tubes and hoses;
inspection of the condition of brake discs, drums and pads;
checking the brake fluid level and replacing it approximately every 40 thousand kilometers.

Repair

For repairs, you need a garage, the ability to hang the car, a set of tools, knowledge and skills in troubleshooting typical faults in the brake system of Kalina and other cars. If you have all this, you can repair it yourself, but if not, it’s better to contact a car service center, where they will do a high-quality restoration for little money. If the car is under warranty, it is especially not worth repairing it yourself.

"Wizard" OR ABS?

And yet, such a regulator on a modern car is a legend of deep antiquity. It cannot compete with ABS, especially if the driver is an average driver who does not know extreme driving techniques. The curb weights of Kalina and Priora are almost the same - the difference is less than a percent. Using the same tires that were on the Kalina, the Priora with ABS showed the best results under any load. Moreover, no dosing of force on the brake pedal was required, you just press with all your heart, and the electronics do the rest.

Test results:

The feasibility of installing a vacuum brake booster

The vacuum booster dramatically improves the driving comfort of the VAZ 2108. It reduces the pedal effort required to stop the car. All modern cars are equipped with a vacuum booster. Domestic and imported. Nowadays, it is impossible to imagine a car without a vacuum brake booster.

The amplifier is aggregated with the master brake cylinder and is mounted on a shield separating the engine compartment from the interior of the VAZ 2108. It is connected to the engine crankcase with a flexible hose to supply rarefied air necessary for the operation of the amplifier. A malfunction of the amplifier is clearly indicated by a noticeable increase in the force on the brake pedal. Braking acceleration decreases.

Continuing your trip with a broken amplifier is very risky.

You can drive to the nearest car service center with caution. A cracked hose can be wrapped with several layers of electrical tape. If replacing a cracked hose and check valve does not produce results, the unit must be replaced

If replacing the cracked hose and check valve does not produce results, the unit must be replaced.

Work on removing the amplifier is carried out in this order.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. De-energize the electrical system.
Disconnect the wiring block from the hydraulic reservoir cap located on the brake master cylinder body.
From the passenger compartment, remove the amplifier pusher pin using pliers. Disconnect the pusher.
Disconnect the hose going to the engine crankcase.
Unscrew the two nuts securing the brake master cylinder.
Move the cylinder away from the amplifier housing. Leave it hanging from the metal hydraulic pipes.
Unscrew the four nuts securing the amplifier bracket to the engine shield and carefully remove the amplifier.
Unscrew the two nuts securing the amplifier to the bracket. Disconnect the bracket and amplifier.

Install the new VAZ 2108 vacuum booster in the reverse order.

Test results

The optimal adjustment of the “sorcerer” corresponds to the average factory settings, and a few percent can be gained only with individual correction for specific brake pads, tires, vehicle loading and road conditions. But it’s unlikely that anyone will start every trip with a test run.

It would seem that it is possible to reduce the braking distance by increasing the pressure in the rear brakes, but this threatens a loss of stability due to early blocking of the rear wheels. And today only ABS can provide maximum braking efficiency.

On a fully loaded car, depending on the position of the regulator, the spread of the braking distance is 8.3 m. The best results, as on the Niva, are with increasing pressure in the rear brakes. However, on a slippery road, even in smooth turns, early locking of the rear wheels is possible, leading to a skid. And at partial load, with the regulator position different from the base one, the braking distance only increases.

How to adjust the sorcerer on a VAZ 2114

To correctly distribute workloads between front and rear drives, it is necessary to manually adjust the operation of the device. The adjustment principle is as follows. The preliminary gap between the end of the piston and the plate is from two to three millimeters, but in your case this parameter must be determined “experimentally”. To make more precise adjustments, you need to move the regulator along the bracket.

The clearance parameters are selected depending on the behavior of the wheels in each specific case. For example: - There is no skidding of the rear wheels - we reduce the gap. — When triggered early (skidding), we increase the distance.