How to replace a knock sensor in a Kalina-2 engine

The Lada Kalina knock sensor is a device that is responsible for detecting signs of detonation in a car engine. The main element of the product is a piezoelectric element (plate) that reacts to vibration in the internal combustion engine.

If signs of detonation are detected, the sensor reads the necessary parameters and transmits them to the computer, after which the control unit adjusts the ignition parameters to level out engine operation. The DD is located on the engine block and converts mechanical vibrations into electrical impulses. The presence of the system prevents excessive vibration processes in the engine, which ultimately ensures maximum efficiency and reveals the excellent dynamic qualities of the engine.

In Lada Kalina 1.6 cars, 8 valves, the knock sensor is located between the second and third cylinders.

Signs of a malfunctioning knock sensor

If the DD fails completely or partially, a malfunction of the knock sensor manifests itself according to one of the symptoms:

• Engine shaking. If the sensor and control system in the engine are working properly, this phenomenon should not occur. By ear, the appearance of detonation can be indirectly determined by the metallic sound emanating from a running engine (knock of fingers). And excessive shaking and jerking during engine operation is the first way to determine a malfunction of the knock sensor.
• Reduced power or “dullness” of the engine, which is manifested by deterioration of acceleration or excessive increase in speed at low speeds. This happens when, with an incorrect DD signal, the ignition angle is spontaneously adjusted.
• Difficulty starting the engine, especially “cold”, that is, at low temperatures after a long period of inactivity (for example, in the morning). Although it is quite possible for the car to behave this way even at warm ambient temperatures.
• Increased fuel consumption. Since the ignition angle is disturbed, the air-fuel mixture does not meet optimal parameters. Accordingly, a situation arises when the engine consumes more gasoline than it needs.
• Fixing knock sensor errors. Usually the reasons for their appearance are the signal from the sensor going beyond the permissible limits, a break in its wiring, or a complete failure of the sensor. The occurrence of errors will be indicated by the Check Engine light on the dashboard.

However, it is worth considering that such symptoms may indicate other engine failures, including other sensors. It is recommended to additionally read the ECU memory for errors that could arise due to incorrect operation of individual sensors.

Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunctions

In order to identify DD faults more accurately, it is advisable to use electronic error scanners for the electronic control unit. Especially if the check indicator light on the dashboard lights up.

Often, error p0325 “Open in the knock sensor circuit” indicates problems in the wiring. This could be a broken wire or, more often, oxidized contacts. It is necessary to perform preventative maintenance on the connectors on the sensor. Sometimes error p0325 occurs because the timing belt slips by 1-2 teeth.

Error P0328 “Knock Sensor High” often indicates a problem with high-voltage wires. In particular, if the insulation on them or the piezoelectric element breaks through. Similarly, this error can also occur due to the fact that the timing belt has jumped a couple of teeth. To diagnose, you need to check the marks on it and the condition of the washers.

How to check the knock sensor yourself

Errors p0327 or p0326 are usually formed in the ECU memory due to a low signal from the knock sensor. The reason may be poor contact from it, or weak mechanical contact of the sensor with the cylinder block. To eliminate the error, you can try treating both the mentioned contacts and the sensor itself with WD-40

It is also important to check the tightening torque of the sensor, since this parameter is critical to its operation

In general, it can be noted that the symptoms of a malfunction of the knock sensor are very similar to the symptoms characteristic of late ignition because the ECU, for the sake of safety for the engine, tries to automatically do it as late as possible, since this prevents destruction of the engine (if the angle is too early, then in addition detonation occurs, not only does the power drop, but there is also a risk of valve burnout). So, in general, we can conclude that the main symptoms are exactly the same as with incorrect setting of the ignition timing.

Other section materials

Knock sensor in Priora and Kalina

The knock sensor (DS) is designed to detect the occurrence of detonation in the cylinders of gasoline piston engines.

The piezoceramic element of the knock sensor, reacting to vibrations of the cylinder block, sends a signal to the controller.

The controller (ECM), in turn, processes this signal and, in the event of detonation, reduces the ignition timing. In this case, the ignition timing changes for each cylinder separately. This is due to the fact that the temperature of the cylinders, when arranged in a row, is different. The coldest is the first, the hotter is the fourth or last, then the second and the hottest is the third.

From the driver’s point of view, the presence of a detonation elimination system makes it possible, if necessary, to use low-octane gasoline (keep in mind, the controller will assume that you have A-95). Another advantage is maximum efficiency and excellent dynamic properties when using gas-cylinder equipment. Indeed, in this case, you can safely set the maximum acceptable ignition timing for starting, without the risk of running into “knock of fingers” (the popular name for the sound that occurs during detonation).

The sensor is mounted on the cylinder block (see photo).

1 — knock sensor on engines 21126, 11194

Knock sensor on engine 21214.

Advancing the ignition

How did you previously adjust the ignition timing? To do this, the initial installation angle of the breaker-distributor was changed. Without going into the design of this rather complex and capricious unit with a centrifugal and vacuum regulator, we note that its initial installation greatly influenced the power and economic characteristics of the engine.

So, it was necessary to set the ignition as early as possible, but without leading to severe detonation. That’s why we usually checked the adjustment while driving: fully warmed up engine, speed 40 km/h, fourth gear, gas pedal to the floor. At the same time, only a few detonation knocks should have been heard, reminiscent of ringing blows with a wrench on the top of the engine.

The onset of detonation combustion was influenced by many factors. Even slight overheating of the engine, as well as changes in ambient air temperature and, of course, the quality of gasoline, accelerated its appearance. After all, the terms we are familiar with - eightieth, ninety-second, ninety-five - these are the octane numbers of the fuel! And the detonation resistance of ninety-five and ninety-eight gasolines is higher than that of the outdated eightieth.

This is how things went until the advent of injection engines with a “smart” control system with several feedback loops.

Replacing the knock sensor on a VAZ 2114 - step-by-step instructions

So, after receiving a large block of theoretical information, we will proceed to practical exercises and thoroughly analyze the entire process of replacing (removing) the sensor.

Instructions for 8 valve engine

To perform the work you will need a 13mm wrench or socket.

1. We gain free access and unscrew the fastening nut.
2. Then disconnect the contact wires from the device connector.
3. We extract the part.

Reinstallation is carried out in the opposite sequence. Everything is quite simple.

Instructions for engine 16 valves VAZ 2114

We use the same tools as in the first case. The only addition is the need to remove the internal combustion engine protection and ensure a convenient position and access under the bottom of the car. To do this, you can place the car on an overpass or repair pit. The removal and installation process is similar to the first example.

Preparatory actions

Before performing any operations on electrical equipment, you must disconnect the battery. It will be enough to loosen the screw holding the negative terminal on the battery, and then remove this terminal while working. Here you will need a 10mm spanner:

The negative terminal turns off faster

Let's say in your case we are talking about an 8-valve engine. Then you can go straight to the next chapter. Owners of cars with engines 21126/21127 are less fortunate - they need to dismantle the casing.

In order to remove the protective casing, the following steps are carried out: disconnect the canister valve cables, remove the iron retaining plate, then remove the valve module from the engine. Only then will it be possible to unscrew the plug covering the oil filler neck. The part itself, called the “casing,” is carefully pulled up. It is held in place by rubber rivets.

The part is held in place by four rubber rivets.

After dismantling the protection, it would be advisable to tighten the oil filler plug. Otherwise, dust will get into the neck. In general, care must be observed at every step.

Mass air flow sensor specifications

The mass air flow sensor is also attached to the top of the cylinder block and covers the air filter inlet. The mass air flow sensor continuously sends signals to the on-board controller, their frequency depends on the amount of air passing through the filter. Failure of this device rarely occurs, but then the behavior of the car can become unpredictable.

The engine may stall and fuel consumption will increase. This is due to the fact that the ECU, without the participation of a sensor, determines the volume of air required for ignition of the air-fuel mixture, based on the crankshaft speed and throttle position. The air flow sensor has a built-in temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the air flow passing through the filter. Signs that the mass air flow sensor is broken are low engine thrust and increased fuel consumption.

If this happens, the mass air flow sensor should be disconnected and replaced with a new one. To do this, you first need to disconnect its connector and start the engine so that the ECU goes into emergency mode. The degree of damage to the sensor can sometimes be assessed by eye

Even in case of symptoms of a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor, you should pay attention to the condition of the inner surface of the pipe on which the sensor is installed. It should be dry and there should be no oil deposits in the pipe

The mass air flow sensor can fail as a result of contamination getting on it, and this happens due to late replacement of the air filter, which draws in many different pollutants from the surrounding air

This is why it is so important to change the air filter on time. The cause of a malfunction of the air flow sensor may also be damage to its sealing ring.

Nevertheless, with all its vulnerability, the mass air flow sensor can serve for a very long time and, if the rules of car care are followed, does not cause problems. By the way, when starting the Kalina engine, you can detect damage to the mass air flow sensor: if the sensor is faulty, the tachometer needle will sway strongly from side to side, and the on-board computer (if installed) will record an increase in fuel consumption.

Jumps in speed, drop in dynamics - this is what threatens a car with a faulty mass air flow sensor. This device cannot be repaired; it must be replaced at the first opportunity. Starting a hot engine with a faulty mass air flow sensor will be difficult, or Kalina will not want to start at all with such a breakdown.

Dieseling

As already noted, an undesirable phenomenon can appear exclusively on a functioning motor. How then to qualify the operation of the power plant with the ignition off? The mechanics' answer is short - dieseling. Its nature is different: self-ignition of gasoline, identical to the working process of a diesel engine.

Beginners who have caught up on their knowledge base on gasoline internal combustion engines will immediately object, citing a couple of arguments “against”: high-octane fuel has poor self-ignition ability, and the compression ratio in a gasoline engine is lower. All this is true, but when the unit is stopped, favorable conditions are created for dieseling.

• Fuel supply to the cylinders.
• Low crankshaft speed.

In reality the process looks like this. The power plant is turned off, the crankshaft rotation speed drops, fuel is supplied. The time allotted for ignition of the mixture increases.

New Lada: Generator Lada Granta | electrical and electronics Lada Granta

Under such conditions, a spark from a spark plug is not needed to ignite the fuel - a gradual increase in pressure and temperature is sufficient. After completing the power stroke, the crankshaft speed increases, and self-ignition does not occur. Then the frequency drops again and dieseling occurs again. And so on for several cycles of “twitching”.

Replacing the knock sensor

If it requires replacement, then it is necessary to purchase a new device and install it as soon as possible. All car enthusiasts are primarily interested in the price of a new device. It is low and depends on the make of the car and on the country in which the part was manufactured.

You can carry out the replacement yourself when the engine has cooled down by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. It is necessary to achieve the most convenient access to the sensor so that it can be removed. The fact is that it also depends on the car model.

Thus, the knock sensor is a simple device, yet very useful for an electronic control system. It is not difficult to determine its malfunction; you can check it yourself, even in rural areas.

It will also be inexpensive to replace the sensor.

It doesn’t matter whether this is done by a specialist or independently

What are the consequences of a breakdown?

The consequences of a faulty device can be different. If this part fails, the engine continues to operate, but the control unit cannot correctly set the ignition timing.

As a result, accelerated wear of all engine parts increases the chances of engine failure. Timely identification of problems in the operation of sensors will help to significantly extend the life of the internal combustion engine and delay the date of its replacement.

Basic electronics problems

DD is an electronic device, hence most of the possible malfunctions are inextricably linked with electronics. Possible reasons for the failure of this mechanism:

• short to ground;
• wire circuit short circuit;
• failure of the engine control unit;
• violation of the wire shielding;
• signal wire violation.

Any malfunction symptoms listed above require diagnostics of the device. Each individual case will have a completely different verification method. It all depends on the nature of the breakdown. When it comes to a signal wire failure, you need to check the integrity of the connection between the sensor plug and the harness socket.

Examination

The sensor can be checked using diagnostics at a service station and using a multimeter. We will consider the second option in detail because of its low cost and independence.

Sensor tester

To check, the sensor must be removed.

1. We take a regular multimeter and switch its switch to measure a constant voltage of 200 mV.
2. We connect the probes of the device to the sensor and hit the metal part of the sensor with a metal object. The readings on the device should change; if this does not happen, we can conclude that the part is faulty.

DD check

Device

The controller is a ring-shaped housing with a side 3-pin connector. The inner ring is made of an alloy of non-ferrous metals. A bolt is threaded through it and screwed into a threaded hole in the engine block. The device is located in the front part of the cylinder block.

Controller installation location:

It should be noted that Lada Granta sensors 8 and 16 valves are no different from each other and are completely interchangeable.

Priora knock sensor 16 valves signs of malfunction

The knock sensor transmits a signal to the on-board computer indicating the frequency and intensity of detonation that occurs during engine operation.

The operation of all vehicle systems is constantly monitored by an on-board computer that receives information from sensors. A malfunction of one of them can become a serious problem that interferes with the normal operation of the vehicle.

During normal engine operation, the knock sensor does not transmit any data to the control unit. But when detonation occurs during engine operation, the sensor transmits a certain signal to the computer, indicating its frequency and intensity. Next, the control unit goes into an operating mode that helps get rid of engine detonation - it sends a signal to change the composition of the fuel mixture and adjusts the ignition timing. After bringing the engine operation back to normal, the sensor “falls asleep” again until the next time.

It is on the basis of the values ​​received from the sensor that the on-board computer adjusts the engine operating parameters, and if the knock sensor turns out to be faulty, then it is often not possible to normalize the operation of the engine.

Operating principle of the sensor

Its design is simple - the sensor is based on a plate with a piezoelectric effect. When there is a mechanical impact on it (impact, as happens when a motor detonates), the plate begins to generate electricity. And the stronger the impact, the more current the sensor will transmit to the engine control system. The magnitude of the current corresponds to a certain level of detonation, and based on these readings, the computer executes an embedded algorithm aimed at eliminating its causes.

A knock sensor error is a consequence of the computer receiving incorrect data, resulting in instability in engine operation.

As statistics show, such a malfunction most often occurs with domestically produced cars - quite often the problem with DD is observed on a VAZ 2112 with a 16-valve engine - for this reason, car owners are recommended to always have a spare VAZ knock sensor on hand, since its cost is within 200- 300 rubles. Foreign cars, in most cases, are equipped with sensors whose service life exceeds the service life of the car itself.

Principle of operation

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The operating principle of almost all knock sensors is based on the use of the piezoelectric effect. The piezoelectric effect is the ability of certain materials to form a potential difference when exposed to mechanical stress.

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Most men have used piezo lighters and know that they produce a serious electric spark. Such high voltages do not occur in the knock sensors, but the signal received is sufficient for the engine control unit.

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Two types of knock sensors are used: resonant and broadband.

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Design of broadband DD used in VAZ cars and other foreign-made cars:

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Broadband sensors are mounted on the cylinder block in close proximity to the combustion zone. The mount is rigid so as not to damp shock impulses in the event of internal combustion engine malfunctions.

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The piezoceramic sensing element generates an electrical pulse with an amplitude sufficient for processing by the engine control unit in a wide frequency range.

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Wideband sensors generate a signal both when the ignition is turned off when the engine is stopped at low speed, and at high speeds while driving.

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Some cars, for example Toyota, use resonant sensors:

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Such DDs operate at low engine speeds, at which, due to the resonance phenomenon, the greatest mechanical effect on the piezoelectric plate is achieved, and accordingly, a large signal is formed. It is no coincidence that a protective shunt resistor is installed in these sensors.

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The number of real reasons is three

We have not yet identified the reasons for the detonation of the injection engine. You can safely fill in any fuel, even with impurities, and you can completely disable the knock sensor - the engine will continue to run, but the ECU will adjust the ignition accordingly. Three factors lead to the appearance of stable detonation: operation on a lean mixture, glow ignition, overheating of the walls of the combustion chamber. The last of the factors is caused by only one reason - a breakdown of the temperature sensor (DTOZ).

DTOZh sensors for Lifan cars

Listed below are sensors, the serviceability of which is also important.

Sensor failure cheat sheet

The injection gasoline engine is equipped with a set of elements that allow you to control the operation of the system at any given time. All these elements are called sensors. We list those whose failure leads to detonation:

• TPS, or throttle position sensor. Symptoms of failure are a decrease in power, jerks and dips during acceleration, as well as unstable idling. The result is that the engine runs on a lean mixture, but only under heavy loads. And detonation will appear if the control is carried out in a “pedal to the floor” style. The check engine light usually does not come on.
• DTOZH, that is, the antifreeze temperature sensor. If the engine is heated to a critical temperature, the ECU must “know” about it. The ignition timing must then be adjusted. Otherwise, and quite quickly, a stable detonation will begin.
• DD, knock sensor. This element rarely fails, but the wiring may be damaged. If the sensor breaks down, and not if the wires are broken or shorted, the Check Engine lamp does not light up at low speeds. If there is already a malfunction, you can cause detonation like this: you need to turn off the engine, disconnect and reconnect the battery terminal, and start. Detonation will appear and then disappear until the next start.

The DTOZh sensor breaks down - we get detonation in critical modes. And if the TPS breaks down, detonation is observed at high speeds. The appearance and rapid disappearance of detonation is the result of a motor failure.

A motor failure can lead to detonation when the ignition is turned off.

A variable resistor senses the angle of rotation of the damper

Microphone, that is, a piezoelectric element that monitors detonation

Operating an engine with a faulty throttle sensor is not uncommon. Car owners give reasons: the warning light did not turn on, there are jerks and dips only during acceleration, and a metallic sound cannot always be noticed. It seems that it is necessary to change the gasoline, and not the sensor, but in fact it is the other way around.

What are the dangers of glow ignition?

Let’s say a spark plug heats up “white-hot” and doesn’t cool down even by the next compression stroke. Then ignition occurs before a spark appears. Pre-ignition, as we know, always causes detonation. Thus, it can also be caused by the “glow ignition” that was just described.

Foci of ignition are accumulations of soot

There can be several reasons for the occurrence of glow ignition:

• Accumulation of a large amount of soot and soot on candles;
• Burnout of the “central electrode”.

Actually, this is all that can be said about another factor associated with the occurrence of detonation. Let's consider the last of them - the problem with the injectors.

Clogged injectors and consequences

In fact, the rule always applies: if any injector becomes clogged (here is an article on how to clean it), engine power is reduced. This is how the ECU works to prevent detonation. The logic here is as follows: the injector becomes clogged, the mixture becomes lean, and detonation occurs. The sensor is triggered, and the ECU performs regulation, adjusting all parameters to the operating conditions. But such “adjustment” causes a decrease in power and cannot be carried out indefinitely.

Set of nozzles after ultrasonic cleaning

If the degree of clogging is sufficiently high, the ECU cannot correct the situation: the mixture is lean, and detonation occurs all the time. The Check Engine light may also come on, and the BC, if present, will display the following error - P0324.

Code P0324 is deciphered as follows: “detonation control error.” But the DD sensor and its circuits may turn out to be serviceable! Then, of course, you will need to check the injectors.

It turns out that with the Check Engine light on, especially when the errors are related to detonation, you cannot operate the engine. But on the other hand, neither a break nor a failure of the sensor itself leads to fatal consequences. The Check lamp, moreover, will light up in all cases. Well, it’s better to be able to recognize detonation by ear.

Is it possible to avoid detonation?

• When going uphill at a high incline, select a lower gear or one that will allow the engine to operate between 2500 and 3500 rpm.
• Do not use fuel with an octane rating lower than that recommended by the car manufacturer.
• Check the condition of the spark plugs in a timely manner. During scheduled maintenance, monitor the condition of the spark plug wells and check the compression in the piston.

If there is an on-board computer, an error code will be displayed on it:

1. 0327 - excessively low signal level from the knock sensor. Most likely, there is a break in the circuits connecting the sensor to the control unit.
2. 0328 - signal level too high. The cause of this error may be a malfunction of the device itself.

The Chevrolet Niva is a very specific car, as it is designed for driving in conditions where there is practically no road. Therefore, any problems with it can simply be fatal. The risk of stopping in the middle of the forest increases several times.

Pay attention to where the knock sensor is located on the Chevrolet Niva. It is located in the center of the engine block

The distance from the sensor installation location to the 1st and 4th cylinders is the same, thanks to this it allows you to capture all detonation knocks that appear in the internal combustion engine.

And in order to eliminate the possibility of detonation, it is enough to follow a few simple rules:

1. When you drive your car uphill or off-road, you need to downshift. It is desirable that the engine operates at a frequency of 2500..3500 rpm.
2. Monitor the condition of the spark plugs - the quality of ignition of the mixture depends on them. It is better to occasionally check the compression in each cylinder.
3. It is not recommended to use gasoline with a low octane number. It is advisable to fill the tank only with fuel recommended by the car manufacturer.

The main causes of detonation knock

Having figured out what this phenomenon is, it’s worth talking about the reasons that cause detonation. Gasoline, its quality and brand (octane number) are of great importance. The lower the last parameter, the less resistance gasoline has to detonation. There is no need to talk about quality; refuel at proven gas stations so that there are no problems. Please note that the knocking noise appears quite often after refueling at suspicious gas stations. True, the VAZ knock sensor, the signs of malfunction of which are discussed in the article, allows you to get rid of knocking in a timely manner.

In addition, one of the reasons for knocking is an incorrectly set advance angle. It is quite possible that the timing belt has moved a few teeth, hence the malfunction. Often the cause of detonation is a poor air-fuel mixture. As a result, the fuel evaporates less and absorbs much more heat. Hence the sharp rise in temperature and the appearance of knocking noises. Such a breakdown can be detected by looking at the spark plug electrodes.

Examination

The sensor can be checked using diagnostics at a service station and using a multimeter. We will consider the second option in detail because of its low cost and independence.

Sensor tester

To check, the sensor must be removed.

1. We take a regular multimeter and switch its switch to measure a constant voltage of 200 mV.
2. We connect the probes of the device to the sensor and hit the metal part of the sensor with a metal object. The readings on the device should change; if this does not happen, we can conclude that the part is faulty.

DD check

Where is the knock and fuel level sensor on Lada Priora: signs of malfunction and replacement

The Lada Priora engine is controlled by an electronic engine control system (ECM), which includes a controller and a large number of reading and monitoring devices. The article discusses the Priora fuel sensor and knock sensor, their purpose, location, diagnostics and replacement.

Purpose and location of the knock sensor

During explosive self-ignition in the combustion chamber of the fuel assembly, engine detonation appears. To monitor the occurrence of engine vibrations, a knock sensor (DS) is designed (video author – StarsAutoCom).

The DD is a plastic case, inside of which there is a sensitive piezoceramic disk element that generates an electrical impulse under mechanical influence from the resulting vibrations, and transmits information to the ECU controller. The detonation device is located on the front side of the cylinder block under the intake module.

Location of the device on Priora

Typical faults

If the Lada Priora DD is faulty, the computer will display an error code - 0327. This error is the main reason why the device is changed.

• broken wires;
• damage to the connector with wires;
• failure of the device itself.

The reasons why the power unit detonates may be different. Therefore, to make sure that the cause of detonation is the DD, it must be removed and checked.

How to check and change?

To provide access to the knock sensor, the car should be placed on a lift.

To remove the device, you need to do the following:

1. Turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Next you need to remove the engine protection.
3. Having found the DD, you need to press the metal clamp, thanks to which the connector with wires from the controller is held, and disconnect the connector.
4. Using a key set to “13”, you need to loosen the bolt securing the device and you can remove the DD.

Photo gallery “Replacing the knock regulator on a Lada Priora”

The knock sensor is checked using a multimeter, setting it to voltage measurement mode. Accurate diagnostics can only be carried out on a special stand.

If the device is faulty, it cannot be repaired; it must be replaced. Installation of a new device is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling.

Purpose and location of FLS

The FLS is located in the fuel module, which also includes a fuel pump and fuel filter.

FLS location

Its main purpose is to monitor the fuel level in the gas tank.

The design of the device includes:

• float;
• dielectric plate with a located rheostat;
• the rod on which the contact slider is located.

FLS appearance

Typical faults

If the instrument panel displays incorrect information about the amount of fuel remaining, the reason may be:

• mechanical damage to the gas tank housing;
• float failure;
• electrical faults;
• disruption in the power supply chain;
• FLS malfunction.

To determine the cause, you need to conduct a diagnosis.

What to do if the sensor breaks?

It is possible that the knock sensor may not be working properly. At the same time, the engine begins to stall. In this case, you will need to diagnose the device. The first thing you should pay attention to is the condition of the electrical wiring through which the sensor is connected to the vehicle’s control system. Pay special attention to the condition of the connectors. If there is a coating on them or they have oxidized, it is necessary to clean them. This is how any knock sensor is checked. “Kalina”, the signs of malfunction of which are no different from those given in the article, needs timely care and replacement of elements.

But in the case when no external damage is detected, we can conclude that there is a breakdown of the sensor itself. All work can be done independently. To remove the knock sensor, you will need a small set of tools. As a rule, removal is carried out using a 20 or 13 key. It all depends on what type of device is used on your car.

Signs of a malfunctioning knock sensor

If the DD fails completely or partially, a malfunction of the knock sensor manifests itself according to one of the symptoms:

• Engine shaking. If the sensor and control system in the engine are working properly, this phenomenon should not occur. By ear, the appearance of detonation can be indirectly determined by the metallic sound emanating from a running engine (knock of fingers). And excessive shaking and jerking during engine operation is the first way to determine a malfunction of the knock sensor.
• Reduced power or “dullness” of the engine, which is manifested by deterioration of acceleration or excessive increase in speed at low speeds. This happens when, with an incorrect DD signal, the ignition angle is spontaneously adjusted.
• Difficulty starting the engine, especially “cold”, that is, at low temperatures after a long period of inactivity (for example, in the morning). Although it is quite possible for the car to behave this way even at warm ambient temperatures.
• Increased fuel consumption. Since the ignition angle is disturbed, the air-fuel mixture does not meet optimal parameters. Accordingly, a situation arises when the engine consumes more gasoline than it needs.
• Fixing knock sensor errors. Usually the reasons for their appearance are the signal from the sensor going beyond the permissible limits, a break in its wiring, or a complete failure of the sensor. The occurrence of errors will be indicated by the Check Engine light on the dashboard.

However, it is worth considering that such symptoms may indicate other engine failures, including other sensors. It is recommended to additionally read the ECU memory for errors that could arise due to incorrect operation of individual sensors.

Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunctions

In order to identify DD faults more accurately, it is advisable to use electronic error scanners for the electronic control unit. Especially if the check indicator light on the dashboard lights up.

The best device for this task will be Scan Tool Pro Black Edition - an inexpensive Korean-made device with great functionality that works with the OBD2 data transfer protocol and is compatible with most modern cars, as well as programs for a smartphone and computer (with a Bluetooth or Wi-Fi module).

It is necessary to consider whether there is one of the 4 errors in the knock sensor and errors in the mass air flow sensor, lambda or coolant temperature sensors, and then view real-time indicators for the advance angle and fuel mixture composition (an error in the DD sensor appears when it is significantly depleted).

Often, error p0325 “Open in the knock sensor circuit” indicates problems in the wiring. This could be a broken wire or, more often, oxidized contacts. It is necessary to perform preventative maintenance on the connectors on the sensor. Sometimes error p0325 occurs because the timing belt slips by 1-2 teeth.

Error P0328 “Knock Sensor High” often indicates a problem with high-voltage wires. In particular, if the insulation on them or the piezoelectric element breaks through. Similarly, this error can also occur due to the fact that the timing belt has jumped a couple of teeth. To diagnose, you need to check the marks on it and the condition of the washers.

Errors p0327 or p0326 are usually formed in the ECU memory due to a low signal from the knock sensor. The reason may be poor contact from it, or weak mechanical contact of the sensor with the cylinder block. To eliminate the error, you can try treating both the mentioned contacts and the sensor itself with WD-40

It is also important to check the tightening torque of the sensor, since this parameter is critical to its operation

In general, it can be noted that the symptoms of a malfunction of the knock sensor are very similar to the symptoms characteristic of late ignition because the ECU, for the sake of safety for the engine, tries to automatically do it as late as possible, since this prevents destruction of the engine (if the angle is too early, then in addition detonation occurs, not only does the power drop, but there is also a risk of valve burnout). So, in general, we can conclude that the main symptoms are exactly the same as with incorrect setting of the ignition timing.

Briefly about the main thing

After stopping the engine, there can be no detonation - this unstable “jerking” is called dieseling. This phenomenon does not carry anything dangerous in itself. The reason for its appearance is the flow of fuel into the cylinders when the ignition is turned off. It occurs, as a rule, on carburetor engines with a faulty EMC.

Detonation occurs exclusively when the engine is running and is accompanied by a characteristic metallic ringing. It appears when driving at low speeds under load, when starting off, after refueling with low-octane gasoline and due to incorrect setting of the ignition timing on a carburetor engine. On an injection power plant, the engine knock sensor and the ECU are responsible for the latter.

Diagnostic features

Diagnostics begins with checking that the error is not the result of a false alarm by the system. This happens sometimes, and after this problem occurs there are no real problems with the engine, fuel system or knock sensor.

Carrying out such a diagnosis is quite simple. To do this, the error code is first erased from memory according to the instructions provided for each vehicle. Recommendations can be found in the operating instructions.

Having reset the error, the driver performs a test drive. In this case, you need to create all the conditions described above under which such a code appears in the ECU. Warm up the engine, raise the speed to the desired level.

If the error appears again, it means there is some kind of problem, a provoking factor.

Further diagnostics involves the implementation of such mandatory measures.

Turn off the ignition on the car. Locate the ECU and the wire that goes to the knock sensor. They need to be separated for a while. Take a multimeter. The most common one is suitable for garage use. You don't have to buy an expensive model. Using a test instrument, the wires connecting the control unit and the controller are checked for integrity. This procedure is called dialing. Now check how well and tightly the wires of the sensor and the ECU are connected to each other. If you see traces of corrosion or oxides, you need to clean them. This can be done with fine-grained sandpaper. Just make sure the car's power is turned off

To do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. If everything is fine with the wires, there are no signs of damage, the contacts are intact, then the tightening torque on the seat of the detonation controller is also checked. When replacing or installing, it is extremely important to tighten the sensor in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. This should not be done with your hands or regular wrenches, but with a torque wrench

It is important to observe a certain regulated tightening torque. It often happens that the sensor is simply not fully tightened. If over-tightened, mechanical damage occurs and the controller must be completely replaced. Each specific vehicle has its own recommendations for the tightening torque used. But on average it is from 20 to 25 Nm in relation to passenger cars.

If the problem is observed on the part of the electronic control unit, it is strongly not recommended to delve into the brains of the car yourself, try to find or fix something there. This is a complex procedure requiring special skills, knowledge, equipment and software.

Having ruled out all possible problems as part of self-diagnosis, and leaving only the ECU as the only suspect, it is recommended to contact specialized specialists. Or better yet, go to an official dealer who has experience working with specific ECUs of certain brands and models of cars.

Determining the malfunction

There are two ways to determine a possible breakdown. The easiest way is to use the services of a car service. Experienced specialists, using certain devices, will quickly identify the presence and cause of a malfunction. The maximum diagnostic period is 1 hour. If you want to save money, you can check the condition of the DD yourself.

It is quite simple to independently determine the malfunction of the knock sensor. To do this, you do not need to have any deep knowledge, only your attentiveness. You should think about organizing diagnostics of the device when the knock sensor shows the following signs of malfunction:

• you notice a significant loss of power from the internal combustion engine;
• acceleration of your car has become “sluggish” and difficult;
• there is an unreasonable increase in fuel consumption;
• the exhaust became smoky;
• the presence of a detonation process;
• The “Check Engine” light on the control panel is on.

The self-check procedure looks like this:

• We remove protection in the garage. You have to work with the engine itself.
• We exclude a break in the shielding braid or signal wire.
• If the problem is not a break, then you need to focus on the outlet itself. It may need replacing.
• Checking DD contacts.
• We carry out diagnostics using a standard multimeter.

You can determine whether the device is faulty using a digital multimeter. Measure the resistance level of the DD contacts. Any deviation from the norm will be a reason to replace the device with a new one. Before you begin, you should find out the resistance standard for your car brand. As practice shows, this indicator can vary greatly for different brands of cars. To avoid wasting time and money, you need to arm yourself with the necessary information.

Work progress

The replacement process is the same on different LADA models.

First of all, you need to press the latch, and then disconnect the plug with wires from the sensor itself.

Next, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the fastening bolt and remove the assembly itself.

The replacement is also demonstrated in the video using the Lada Grant as an example.

The Lada Kalina knock sensor is checked using a multimeter, which for this purpose is switched to the voltmeter operating mode with an upper measurement threshold of 200 mV.

To check you need:

1. Connect the multimeter probes to the sensor;
2. Lightly tap the metal base of the assembly with another metal tool;
3. If the Lada Kalina knock sensor is working correctly, voltage drops will be displayed on the multimeter.

As for a deeper and more complete check, it is possible, but only at a special stand.

Sometimes component failure occurs due to poor contact of the plug. If this is the case, it is necessary to treat them with graphite grease or other composition for cleaning electrical contacts, and then remove oxides from their surface. Don’t forget about contaminants that also need to be removed.

In addition, experts note that detonation is possible if the engine operates under heavy load. In such a situation, the reasons may be as follows:

1. The octane number of the fuel does not correspond to that recommended by the factory.
2. The heat number of the spark plugs does not correspond to that recommended by the factory.
3. The basic ignition timing is incorrectly adjusted.

As you can see, checking and replacing the Lada Kalina knock sensor is not difficult and you can do all the work yourself.

The most common causes of engine detonation and solutions

This is interesting: Eliminating scuffs under the rear lights of Lada Largus

Purpose and location of the knock sensor

A knock sensor (DS) is a device that is installed on the outside of the cylinder block wall to monitor the appearance of abnormal vibrations caused by detonation in the engine, that is, explosive self-ignition in the combustion chamber of the working mixture. The DD produces an alternating current signal, the voltage amplitude and frequency of which depend on the vibration parameters of the cylinder block.

Photo of Priora knock sensor

Each level of intensity and frequency of oscillations of the engine walls corresponds to its own signal. The engine control controller constantly analyzes the data received from the engine. When detonation occurs in the cylinders, the amplitude of vibrations of the corresponding frequency increases, and the DD generates a signal, after processing which the controller adjusts the ignition timing, making it later, which leads to the suppression of detonation of the working mixture.

The Priora DD consists of a washer-shaped plastic body, which has a hole in the center for a bolt with a 13-head head, and on the side there is a two-pin connector for connecting wires from the controller. The main part of the DD is located inside the case - a sensitive piezoceramic disk element, which, in fact, generates voltage (signal) when exposed to vibration.

In the photo - DD Priora

The DD Priora is installed on the cylinder block, namely: on its front wall under the intake module, next to and slightly above the dipstick socket for monitoring the oil level in the engine. It is not visible from the top of the hood. It can only be seen from below, for example, from a pit, when the lower engine protection is removed.

What else can cause detonation?

The main reason for detonation is a sharp increase in temperature in the combustion chamber. Also, detonation knock can be caused by problems with the valves. For example, the operation of the intake and exhaust is disrupted. In this case, exhaust gases cannot escape freely. This causes detonation in the engine. Of no small importance are the conditions under which the internal combustion engine is operated. In particular, the qualitative composition of the mixture supplied to the combustion chamber. And here the VAZ knock sensor will help, the signs of malfunction of which we are now finding out. It allows you to adjust the operation of the engine.

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DIAGNOSE YOUR CAR YOURSELF!

Code P0327 is entered if the following conditions exist:

engine crankshaft speed is more than 1300 rpm; coolant temperature above 60°C; the amplitude of the knock sensor signal is below the threshold. If a permanent malfunction occurs, the “CHECK ENGINE” lamp lights up after 2 drive cycles.

1. The existence of conditions for the occurrence of code P0327 is checked.

2. The serviceability of wires 2 B and 88 G is checked.

1. Connect the adapter cable to the diagnostic connector. Start the engine and warm up to a coolant temperature of 60°C. Set the engine crankshaft speed to more than 1300 rpm.

Code P0327 is intermittent. If it is currently inactive and there are no other codes, analyze the conditions under which the code occurred. It is necessary to check the knock sensor connector for foreign liquids (motor oil), dirt and dust getting into it. In case of severe contamination, clean with gasoline or any solvent that does not destroy plastic and rubber seals. See “Fault Cards” and “Checking the Knock Dampening System” card.

2. Turn off the ignition. Disconnect the harness connectors from the controller and knock sensor. Check the resistance of wires 2 B and 88 G with a multimeter.

Wire resistance less than 1 ohm indicates a malfunction of the sensor or controller, or poor contact in their terminals.

If the wire resistance is more than 1 ohm, repair the break.

After repair, start the engine, reset the codes and make sure there is no signal from the “CHECK ENGINE” lamp.

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The Lada Kalina knock sensor is a device that is responsible for detecting signs of detonation in a car engine. The main element of the product is a piezoelectric element (plate) that reacts to vibration in the internal combustion engine.

If signs of detonation are detected, the sensor reads the necessary parameters and transmits them to the computer, after which the control unit adjusts the ignition parameters to level out engine operation. The DD is located on the engine block and converts mechanical vibrations into electrical impulses. The presence of the system prevents excessive vibration processes in the engine, which ultimately ensures maximum efficiency and reveals the excellent dynamic qualities of the engine.

In Lada Kalina 1.6 cars, 8 valves, the knock sensor is located between the second and third cylinders.

Why is detonation really so bad?

The inner surface of the cylinder is always protected by a layer of oil. The blast wave generated during detonation can destroy the oil film. And this is already a phenomenon, that is, “erasing” the oil in any case leads to overheating. And then the metal is destroyed under the influence of the following factors: heating, increased shock loads.

The consequences of engine detonation do not appear immediately. Which is exactly what is dangerous: the part is destroyed gradually, but the source of this process is there. It is difficult to notice and cannot be eliminated. Only replacement helps.

Now let's see which parts suffer more from detonation. Their list is small:

• Gasket between the engine block and the cylinder head;
• Piston edges;
• Spark plug housing.

It seems that detonation, even if it occurs periodically, cannot destroy the piston. But this opinion is easy to refute:

The nature of destruction on the pistons is very important

If it’s the edge that’s been “blown away,” we see the result of detonation. Here's what can happen to the cylinder head gasket:

Such destruction can be detected by measuring pressure

In general, the list can be continued. Let's move on to watching the video.

Replacing the VAZ knock sensor

The knock sensor on injection VAZ cars is located on the cylinder block in the front part. Before you begin to unscrew the mounting bolt, disconnect the chip from the sensor by pulling out the locking bracket. To unscrew the DD you will need a 13 key.

After removing the old sensor, do not rush to install a new one immediately. Before replacing, thoroughly wipe the sensor seat from oil, dirt and other debris to ensure a perfect fit of the sensor to the engine block.

The tightening torque DD should be within 10 - 24 N.m. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can lightly tighten it by hand, just don't go too hard.

The basis for any knock sensor without exception, including the VAZ-2114, is the so-called piezoelectric element. And when it is acted upon mechanically, an electrical signal is generated inside its body, after which these impulses are sent to the engine ECU.

Are your fingers tapping?

Let's define what detonation is and what causes it.

Anyone who has ever heard of civil defense and protection from a nuclear explosion remembers that one of the effects of such an explosion is a shock wave. By the way, we also encounter a shock wave when flying a supersonic aircraft. In short, this is a wave propagating in a certain medium (in our case, air) at the speed of sound.

Now let's go on an excursion into the engine cylinder - at the moment when the working mixture ignites. If combustion proceeds in the usual manner, then the speed of propagation of the flame front and, accordingly, the increase in pressure is low (usually up to 50 m/s). But it happens that conditions are created for combustion at higher speeds.

So, if the flame front propagates at the speed of sound, then the shock wave, which has significant energy, is what causes the engine parts to emit those sounds that we call detonation knocks. In general, the shortest and most correct definition of detonation is “combustion in the front of a shock wave.”