Throttle adaptation for Lada Granta 127 engine


Throttle adaptation for Lada Granta 127 engine

And if this is not done, then what will be interesting?
Or can you do this: install the battery, but since it’s cold now, don’t do the adaptation, and when it gets warmer, remove the terminal, then put it back on and do the adaptation?

Also, is it necessary to adapt the misfire function after this?

In general, everything is somehow not right. Okay adaptation. But these are +7 degrees. Drive in emergency mode all winter?

Added after 2 minutes As I understand it, it would be best to have an old battery with you. While I took this one out for charging, I quickly installed the old one to maintain the ECU memory.

Added after 1 minute Or you can also take an unnecessary battery from the UPS - it will be easier, but enough for support.

Source

conclusions

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.

The brakes, of course, were invented by cowards - any reckless driver will tell you that. But when you realize that there is “something wrong” with them, it becomes scary to get behind the wheel: the trip may be your last. We drive thoughts like “it will do” away: the jokes are over

It is important to determine the type of malfunction - at least in advance

Problem with idle float when starting on cold due to sticking of throttle 21127 and 21129.

Dear friends, today I’ll tell you about my experience in resolving problems with the throttle assembly. Very relevant, especially for owners of 21129 engines.

By the way, I have the firmware with the problem already fixed.

The occurrence and solution at the plant level in the case of the M74.5 ECU, it was like this. When the ignition was turned on on old versions of the ECU firmware, the micro-calibration time of the Throttle Unit (hereinafter referred to as the remote control) was, well, long, due to the fact that the owner did not wait for a 10-second pause during the ignition, this error occurred.

This problem can be fixed with firmware.

But not everyone, for example, in cars of 13-14 years, the remote control motor was of an old model, had a certain moment of jamming, then in 15 the remote control became “modernized” and this error went away altogether.

Firmware versions that have this problem:
I427DB02 I427DC03 I427DD04 I427DF04 I427DG05 I427GA01 I427GB02 I427GC03 I427GD04 I427GE05 I427GF06
Firmware versions that do not have this problem:
I427GG07 I427GKA1 I427GKA 2
Here is a photo of how to find out your firmware version, the firmware is interchangeable, at least install the oldest one on the new unit, at least the newest one.

Problem with floating XX when starting on cold

The car sits overnight, in the morning you start the revs, when it warms up, the revs begin to jump, +-300 revs, with the probability of stalling, you need to press the gas pedal lightly and everything returns to normal.

Starting the engine, the rpms are 1200, they begin to jump between 500 and 1400 and hang at 700.

Related problems:

— Jerking during a smooth start in first gear — Thoughts in part-load mode — The feeling when accelerating at 50% throttle that sometimes “as if you’re holding your ass”

How to diagnose physically: when disassembling the throttle, remove the plastic gear, twist the motor gear, if it rotates tightly or sticks, then the manual is for you.

It is necessary to remove the remote control, clean the valve (by the way, it was clean) with carburetor cleaner, then remove the cover, unscrew the motor and wash everything.

Source

conclusions

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But at the same time, it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither the repair nor the repair will cost a penny.

Good day! Question for those who have encountered this problem. So I’ll start from afar to make the situation more clear. In general, I wrote earlier that I had a problem with the fact that at a traffic light the speed dropped to 500, then rose to 1200, then leveled off and everything started in a circle several times, and if I left it on hot, at idle, it could stall altogether, but it stalled softly, as if they had simply turned the key, and the canister purge valve was also clicking. I went through various diagnostics for a long time, in the end they found an air leak through the rubber bands of the receiver, changed the IAC, washed the throttle, changed the filter and mesh, after this replacement curve the fuel pump whistled, failures seemed to become less frequent, but it still stalled and only when it was hot, when I left it on single. As a result, I got to one diagnostician, he found a bent throttle valve, did the firmware and the car seemed to drive, the fuel pump stopped whistling after a month and a half. Everything seemed to be fine, but over time I began to notice such a thing that when the tank needle is in the red zone, the car seems to have been replaced, it starts to drive very cheerfully with less pressure on the gas pedal, plus there is clearer information from the pedal and less roar of the engine when accelerating. .e. even from the bottom (1.4 engine) it accelerates with a pleasant sound, and not with a fart that is about to die. BUT, as soon as you fill gasoline above the red zone, the car becomes sluggish, when accelerating in second gear, the car does not respond to how much the gas pedal is pressed, whether the pedal is to the floor, or until half the acceleration speed does not change, the speed rises somehow slowly, but if you pump the gas pedal with your foot several times, you can achieve a slight acceleration, but still not as much as on an empty tank (for the difference in weight of 30 liters, I think it’s stupid to say what will affect acceleration). Plus, when accelerating from the bottom, there is an unpleasant, sort of slightly farting sound from the engine (not the exhaust), it feels like it’s missing either air or gasoline. I drove like this for almost a year, I couldn’t find the reason, there were similar topics on the service and on the Internet, but there were no concrete solutions, most people simply don’t believe that the car can drive more vigorously on an empty tank. There is no air or other stuff in the tank. Recently the fuel pump whistled again, but the car drove briskly and on a full tank, so the pump was still original since 2009, I decided that the problem was in it and changed it, it seemed to start running, then I found a topic about the RTD and also changed it to catch up. The car came to life with any tank, drove like that for a week and a half and went to another city on the highway, everything was great, the acceleration was excellent, I didn’t even notice how quickly it picked up to 150. BUT, after driving about 70-80 kilometers, I began to notice that something was wrong again, when I was driving back I had to stoke in third to overtake

In general, now I don’t know where to dig, the car now drives according to its mood, no matter how many liters are in the tank, for example, I leave for work in the morning, it’s dull, the gas is on the floor, and like a pensioner it accelerates slowly, I leave it in the parking lot, in the evening I go out and it drives cheerfully with slipping in second and third gear, as if the engine had been changed. So far I can’t catch any pattern (if before it was based on the level of gasoline in the tank)

I also forgot to write that even after replacing the RTD with a hot one, in half the cases it starts poorly, you have to squeeze the gas. I only drive on gasoline; I don’t have gas equipment. Anyone who has encountered such a problem or knows what could be the reason, please tell me.

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When and how to do it yourself

When to do it

adaptation of the throttle valve zero and adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function:

  • After replacing the ECU controller or resetting the controller using a scan tool.
  • After replacing the throttle assembly.

Throttle zero adaptation procedure

:

  • When the car is stationary, you must turn on the ignition, wait 30 seconds, turn off the ignition, wait until the main relay turns off.

Adaptation will be interrupted

, If:

  • the engine turns over;
  • the car is moving;
  • the accelerator pedal is pressed;
  • engine temperature is below 5 °C or above 100 °C;
  • Ambient temperature is below 5 °C.

Adaptation procedure

Misfire diagnostic functions:

  • warm up the engine to operating temperature (parameter value “Coolant temperature” = 60.90 °C);
  • accelerate the car in 2nd gear until higher crankshaft speeds are reached (parameter value “Engine crankshaft speed” = 4000 min-1) and perform engine braking (“Engine crankshaft speed” = 1000 min-1);
  • Perform engine braking six times in one trip.

This adaptation procedure is specified in the technological instructions for LADA cars.

Refinement of a new electronic gas pedal

The pedal assembly (11183-1108500-01) does not have oval holes, which does not allow adjustment in the manner described above. Instead, it is proposed to cut off the protrusion (by 2-3 mm), which prevents the pedal from moving completely. This modernization made it possible to increase the pedal travel, which made acceleration with “pedal to the floor” more active. It is also noted that there is no hesitation when pressing the pedal sharply.

What I don’t like about the pedal assembly (8450008980), which is installed on Lada Vesta:

  • tight gas pedal;
  • large free play of the gas pedal (about 8 mm at the tip of the pedal).

What was decided to do:

  • remove one of the return springs to make the pedal softer;
  • Place a spacer to reduce the free play of the pedal.

How to measure pedal free play:

  1. Let's start the engine.
  2. Place a ruler at the tip of the pedal.
  3. Smoothly press the pedal until the engine begins to gain speed.
  4. We remember the distance on the ruler.

We remove and disassemble the electronic gas pedal:

  1. Disconnect the connector (by pressing the inside of the upper part of the latch)
  2. Unscrew three nuts (head “10”).
  3. Remove the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws.
  4. Remove the rheostat slider by unscrewing the screw.
  1. Remove the spring (holding them with a screwdriver from the outside).
  1. Remove the white support spacers, remembering how they were installed.
  2. We measure the distance between the support pad of the return spring lever and the support rubber in the body, retracting the pedal to the amount of free play (indicated by an arrow).
  3. We glue the material of the same thickness (in this example we use 4 mm stickers for furniture legs and doors) using glue or double-sided tape.

We assemble the pedal assembly and install it in the car. The idle motion of the pedal should be minimal, about 1 mm. If the engine idle speed is higher than usual, and there is no free play of the pedal at all, then too much has been added. You will have to repeat the adjustment operation, adjusting the thickness of the lining. The same thing applies if the free play after adjustment remains more than 1-2 mm.

Owner reviews

Owners of LADA XRAY who independently performed the throttle valve zero adaptation procedure note that the car stopped twitching and acceleration became smooth.

Some reviews from Drive2.ru (link to post):

Let us remind you that we previously published an information letter from AVTOVAZ, which tells us what to do in case of vibrations and jerks when starting off a LADA car.

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Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter..

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The car pulls to the side

It is clear that not only the brakes can be to blame for a car drifting off course - the wheel alignment angles, the wheels themselves, and the steering can also be to blame. However, quite often questions arise specifically about the brakes, especially if the car pulls sideways when braking. Most often, jammed pistons in the cylinders of one of the circuits are to blame. It is possible that the wheel may brake due to the loosening of the bolts securing the pad guide to the steering knuckle, as well as the pads getting oily or getting brake fluid on them.

Perhaps an ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads, or the pads are simply wet. Or one of the circuits of the brake system does not work - the pedal is low and the braking efficiency is low. Brake disc runout, wheel bearing wear, and brake drum out-of-roundness may also be to blame.

When and how to do it yourself

When to do it

adaptation of the throttle valve zero and adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function:

  • After replacing the ECU controller or resetting the controller using a scan tool.
  • After replacing the throttle assembly.

Throttle zero adaptation procedure

:

  • When the car is stationary, you must turn on the ignition, wait 30 seconds, turn off the ignition, wait until the main relay turns off.

Adaptation will be interrupted

, If:

  • the engine turns over;
  • the car is moving;
  • the accelerator pedal is pressed;
  • engine temperature is below 5 °C or above 100 °C;
  • Ambient temperature is below 5 °C.

Adaptation procedure

Misfire diagnostic functions:

  • warm up the engine to operating temperature (parameter value “Coolant temperature” = 60.90 °C);
  • accelerate the car in 2nd gear until higher crankshaft speeds are reached (parameter value “Engine crankshaft speed” = 4000 min-1) and perform engine braking (“Engine crankshaft speed” = 1000 min-1);
  • Perform engine braking six times in one trip.

This adaptation procedure is specified in the technological instructions for LADA cars.

Replacing the gas pedal on Grant

The replacement procedure is quite simple and does not require special technical means. In order to dismantle the unit you will need: - A key for 10.

Sequential steps to replace the gas pedal of a Lada Granta:

1. The first step is to remove the negative terminal from the battery. 2. Next, you need to move to the driver’s side of the car. 3. Above the gas pedal, find and disconnect the contact chip that is connected to the sensor connector.


4. After that, take a 10mm wrench and unscrew the three fastening nuts. When there is insufficient internal space, it is most convenient to use a socket wrench.


5. Remove the pedal from the special mounting pins. Reinstallation is carried out in a mirror sequence.

Owner reviews

Owners of LADA XRAY who independently performed the throttle valve zero adaptation procedure note that the car stopped twitching and acceleration became smooth.

Some reviews from Drive2.ru (link to post):

Let us remind you that we previously published an information letter from AVTOVAZ, which tells us what to do in case of vibrations and jerks when starting off a LADA car.

Share on social networks:

Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter..

Source

When and how to do it yourself

When to do it

adaptation of the throttle valve zero and adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function:

  • After replacing the ECU controller or resetting the controller using a scan tool.
  • After replacing the throttle assembly.

Throttle zero adaptation procedure

:

  • When the car is stationary, you must turn on the ignition, wait 30 seconds, turn off the ignition, wait until the main relay turns off.

Adaptation will be interrupted

, If:

  • the engine turns over;
  • the car is moving;
  • the accelerator pedal is pressed;
  • engine temperature is below 5 °C or above 100 °C;
  • Ambient temperature is below 5 °C.

Adaptation procedure

Misfire diagnostic functions:

  • warm up the engine to operating temperature (parameter value “Coolant temperature” = 60.90 °C);
  • accelerate the car in 2nd gear until higher crankshaft speeds are reached (parameter value “Engine crankshaft speed” = 4000 min-1) and perform engine braking (“Engine crankshaft speed” = 1000 min-1);
  • Perform engine braking six times in one trip.

This adaptation procedure is specified in the technological instructions for LADA cars.

Owner reviews

Owners of LADA XRAY who independently performed the throttle valve zero adaptation procedure note that the car stopped twitching and acceleration became smooth.

Some reviews from Drive2.ru (link to post):

Let us remind you that we previously published an information letter from AVTOVAZ, which tells us what to do in case of vibrations and jerks when starting off a LADA car.

Share on social networks:

Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter..

Source

Throttle adaptation for Lada Granta 127 engine

And if this is not done, then what will be interesting?

Or can you do this: install the battery, but since it’s cold now, don’t do the adaptation, and when it gets warmer, remove the terminal, then put it back on and do the adaptation?

Also, is it necessary to adapt the misfire function after this?

In general, everything is somehow not right. Okay adaptation. But these are +7 degrees. Drive in emergency mode all winter?

Added after 2 minutes As I understand it, it would be best to have an old battery with you. While I took this one out for charging, I quickly installed the old one to maintain the ECU memory.

Added after 1 minute Or you can also take an unnecessary battery from the UPS - it will be easier, but enough for support.

Source

Design for Russians

I wrote this post not because I discovered something new, just to show what is inside. Of course, the device is already outdated. Many similar structures are equipped not with mechanical brushes, but with a Hall sensor, which operates in a non-contact manner. And we still use contacts - it’s good for Russians!

I drove around, but nothing really changed. True, the speed seems to have become more stable. Most likely, you can’t change anything about this electronic pedal; when it wears out, you’ll have to throw it away and buy a new one.

All the best, I look forward to your questions and advice!

Throttle body adaptation grant 16 valves

Throttle learning is a technical term that owners of modern vehicles have recently become familiar with. This procedure is carried out on cars equipped with an ECU (electronic control unit) in case of unstable engine idling for a number of reasons, which will be discussed below.

The first ECUs (or controllers) began to be installed back in the late 80s. In this case, the opening of the throttle angle (TA) depended on signals from the sensors and the position of the gas pedal, which changed along with the force the driver pressed the pedal.

Modern cars are equipped with electronic accelerators on which electronic sensors are installed. It is from them that data on the degree of pressure (angle) on the accelerator is read. The corresponding information is supplied to the control unit. However, remote control training is also carried out on cars equipped with gas pedals that transmit force to the throttle valve mechanically.

Most modern cars made in Europe, America and Japan have both systems installed.

Node location

Opening the hood of the Priora, you won’t be able to see the throttle assembly. It is located under a plastic casing that covers the top of the engine. In addition to aesthetic value, it has the function of protecting against a heated valve cover.

After removing the casing, the air supply system will appear. It is a large rubber pipe connected on one side to the air filter box, and on the other to the intake manifold. A Priora throttle valve assembly is installed between them. It looks like an aluminum insert with a plastic black wing in the form of a sector, to which the control cable is connected (in the case of a mechanical drive).

Signs of throttle adaptation

The throttle valve in its modern form is one of the last components to undergo electronic modernization. Instead of mechanical rods, a compact electric motor is installed on it, which serves as an actuator.

The signal to it comes directly from the throttle sensor. Together, this system allows you to control the engine correctly, supplying the required volume of fuel mixture to the combustion chambers in a timely manner. There are several signs by which you should start adjusting the throttle position.

For example, when you suddenly release the gas pedal, the engine does not go to idle and stalls; the following can also happen:

  • Unstable engine operation at idle;
  • a significant “freezing” of revolutions around the 1.5 thousand mark;
  • drops in speed when gaining power;
  • the “CHECK ENGINE” indicator lights up on the dashboard;
  • difficult start at ;
  • lack of response when pressing the gas pedal.

Depending on the engine type, there may be a slight loss of power, for example with engines with a V8 configuration. Also, fuel consumption almost always increases. These signs appear especially often on cars with a mileage of 30 thousand km or more, equipped with turbocharging.

Direct cleaning

Having figured out what the throttle valve of a Priora car is, where it is located and why it is needed, you can move on to the highlight of the program - cleaning. To clean, you must first remove the throttle assembly from the car. The tool we will need:

  • Various screwdrivers to remove the clamps from the pipes.
  • Set of socket wrenches.
  • Any convenient flushing liquid (can be purchased at an auto chemical store).

To put it simply, to remove the throttle assembly you need to unscrew and remove everything connected to it. However, this must be done in a certain sequence. First, remove the forced ventilation hose and air pipe. Next, you need to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank to reduce the pressure in the cooling system. A hose with hot antifreeze is connected to the damper to heat it up. To remove them you need to unscrew all the clamps and remove the hoses, and put some plugs in the pipes so that nothing leaks out. Then disconnect the gas tank ventilation hose and disconnect the drive cable from the accelerator pedal. That's it, then we remove the assembly by unscrewing it from the manifold.

The most effective and common means for cleaning the throttle body of a Priora car can be called, of course, WD-40. Any other aerosol product will do.

Do not use any brushes, especially for metal, only rags and cleaning agent. It is necessary to flush all the channels of the unit, and the forced crankcase ventilation channel first; it is usually very dirty. It is also necessary to inspect the idle speed sensor and the throttle position sensor; their cleanliness affects their operation, so it would not be superfluous to wash them. After cleaning has been carried out, the unit is put back in the reverse order. If everything was done correctly, positive changes will not keep you waiting.

Causes

The most common reason for an adaptation to be made is the consequences of throttle valve maintenance. As a result of operation, a large amount of deposits forms in this unit, therefore, after flushing, the position of the throttle valve changes, and the ECU continues to send signals about its condition until maintenance.

Over time, natural wear occurs on the resistive layer of the sensor potentiometer and the moving elements of the throttle valve; in this case, after adaptation, it will most often require replacement. It is necessary to conduct training if changes are made to the ECU settings (chip tuning), especially if operations have been performed to increase engine power.

The procedure is performed using special programs on computer equipment or without them (a strictly defined procedure, which will be discussed below) depending on the brand of car. Auto electricians must take into account the features of the model, year of manufacture, and type of ECU installed on the vehicle.

Features of checking contact and non-contact TPS on Priora: pinout

If the corresponding signs of a malfunction of the TPS on the Priora appear, it would not hurt to check the product to make sure that the sensor has actually failed and that the wire has not been damaged or the contacts in the power supply have oxidized. To do this, you will need to know the TPS pinout, which is presented in the diagram below.

The easiest way to check is to use a multimeter. The detailed process for checking the Priora TPS is described below:

  1. Checking the serviceability of the supply wires. Disconnect the power supply from the sensor. Connect the multimeter probes to pins A and B, then turn on the ignition and check the voltage. The supply voltage should be 4.8-5.2V. If the value differs from the specified value (usually it is lower), then you should look for the cause in a wire that has a short to ground.

  2. Next, we proceed to check the contact sensor. The best way to check it is to measure the resistance between contacts A and C, that is, the signal and positive contacts. It is recommended to perform the test on a removed sensor. We connect the probes to the corresponding terminals and measure the resistance in kOhms. It should be in the range from 1 to 3 kOhm. When changing the position of the slider, the resistance should increase, and very smoothly without sudden jumps. If a different picture is observed, then the TPS needs to be replaced.

  3. Another test method (suitable for both contact and non-contact devices), which does not require removing the sensor, is to measure the voltage at the signal contact. However, it is recommended to implement it in exceptional cases, since it involves violating the integrity of the contacts of the sensor chip. It is carried out as follows: using pins, you need to attach the probes of the multimeter to the back side of the chip. You need to connect to terminals B and C, that is, signal and ground. After connecting, you need to turn on the ignition and, without starting the engine, change the position of the damper. If the voltage smoothly increases to 5V when the damper is opened to maximum, it means the part is working properly. If sudden changes (jumps) occur in the contact-type TPS, the product must be replaced. If the non-contact TPS is faulty, then its voltage will not change or will change, but in a low range.

Below is a video that shows in detail the process of checking the mechanical TPS.

Having confirmed that the throttle position sensor on the Priora is faulty, it should be replaced. Do not attempt to disassemble or repair it, as it is not repairable.

If the BC displays a low signal error from the sensor, you need to check the power wires, since most likely the insulation has been damaged. If the signal level is high, then the fault is probably in the sensor itself.

Need for maintenance

The prophylaxis procedure should not be carried out in the absence of obvious reasons. Before starting, you need to carefully evaluate the condition of the throttle valve. If there are no obvious signs of tar deposits and areas of coking, then the reason for unstable operation may lie elsewhere.

Also consider the mileage of the car. Experts recommend resorting to flushing no earlier than after 100 thousand km. But on some cars, for example, a Ford Focus, it may be necessary to flush it after 30 thousand kilometers.

You should know how to clean your throttle body to achieve the desired result. This requires a special carburetor cleaning solution, for example, Abro Carb & Choke Cleaner or similar products. The assembly must be dismantled; only in this case can the maximum effect be achieved, otherwise carbon deposits will remain inside the tubes. Disconnect all pipes from the throttle valve to gain good access to the inlet part of the assembly.

Remove carbon deposits delicately using a clean rag or soft brush. Do not use excessive force; you may damage the valve. The internal elements are coated with a thin layer of molybdenum, which novice car enthusiasts mistake for harmful deposits.

Toyota gas pedal

Toyota Motor Europe has confirmed that it has carried out a comprehensive repair of the gas pedals on 8 Toyota models scheduled for recall in Europe. Toyota engineers have developed and extensively tested a solution that involves strengthening the pedal assembly to eliminate the potential risk of excess friction that can, in rare cases, lead to a stuck pedal. The first shipments of parts needed for this repair will begin arriving in Europe next week.

At the same time, plans are being implemented to communicate with the owners of damaged cars. In addition, Toyota has already implemented an efficient production solution for vehicles sold in Europe. “Toyota is committed to putting the customer first under all circumstances,” said Tadashi Arashima, president and chairman of Toyota Motor Europe. “We understand that the current situation creates problems and we deeply regret this.” We also want to reassure our customers that a potential problem with the gas pedal is very rare. The announced action is a preventive measure to ensure that the highest safety standards are maintained for all customers.”

“We at Toyota are fully committed to safety standards, we know what the problem is and how to solve it, so now we are focused on solving it as quickly as possible. We carry out the necessary checks to ensure that customers do not purchase problematic vehicles in the future,” added Mr. Arashima.

In case the driver feels that the gas pedal is stuck in the partially open throttle position or slowly returns to the idle state, the car can be driven by pressing the brake pedal firmly with constant force. Do not press the brake pedal more than once in a row as this may weaken the brake booster, requiring you to press the brake pedal harder. You must stop the vehicle in a safe place, turn off the engine and contact an authorized Toyota dealer or Toyota Assistance Service for assistance.

has no information about any traffic accidents in Europe caused by this defect in the design of the gas pedal. In addition, this problem is in no way related to the defect in the driver's floor mat, which was previously identified in the United States.

On January 28, Toyota Motor Europe announced a recall of 8 Toyota models in Europe to address a potential problem with the gas pedal. Below is a list of models and their production periods:

AYGO (Feb 2005 - Aug 2009) iQ (Nov 2008 - Nov 2009) Yaris (Nov 2005 - Sep 2009) Auris (Oct 2006 - 5 Jan 2010) Corolla (Oct 2006 - Dec 2009) Verso (Feb 2009 - 5 Jan 2010) Avensis (Nov 2008 – Dec 2009) RAV4 (Nov 2005 – Nov 2009) The exact number of cars is still being determined, but could reach about 1.8 million units. Other Lexus and Toyota models are not included in this group.

How Toyota will repair recalled vehicles

Experts have identified a problem that, in rare cases, can cause the gas pedal to stick when pressed on the recalled vehicles. The problem arises due to the friction mechanism of the gas pedal, which is necessary to ensure its “information content”. This mechanism increases the pressing resistance and makes it smooth and stable. The design of the mechanism includes a slider that rubs against the surrounding surface during normal operation of the pedal. Due to the nature of the materials used, the degree of wear and weather conditions over time, rubbing parts may stick briefly and not work effectively. In some cases, friction may increase so much that the pedal will be slower than normal to return to its original position, or, in rare cases, the pedal may become stuck, leaving the throttle valve partially open.

The solution found by experts is simple and effective. The unit will have a steel reinforcing bar inserted into it, machined with a particularly high precision cutting tool, which will reduce the surface tension between the ram and the surrounding surface. This redesign eliminates excess friction that can cause pedal sticking. Our company's specialists have confirmed the effectiveness of the modified gas pedals by conducting thorough tests of gas pedal assemblies, which previously showed some tendency to stick.

Source

Throttle learning idle

After flushing the unit or reflashing the ECU, the throttle valve should be trained to idle. To do this, fulfill the following conditions:

  • check the voltage on the battery with the engine off, it should be at least 12.9 V;
  • the coolant temperature should be in the range from 70 to 100 degrees;
  • the steering wheel must be in a neutral position;
  • The gearbox oil must be warmed up;
  • all electrical consumers are turned off;
  • automatic transmission handle in position P.

Failure to comply with the above requirements will lead to incorrect operation of the engine, so they must be followed. After warming up the engine, you must:

  • turn off the ignition for 10 seconds;
  • make sure that the accelerator pedal is in the up position;
  • turn the key to the ON position for 3 seconds (do not start the engine);
  • Press the gas pedal all the way 5 times within 5 seconds and release it for the last time;
  • after 7 seconds, press the gas pedal all the way and wait until the “CHESK ENGINE” display lights up continuously;
  • After pausing for 3 seconds, release the gas pedal.

Try to start the car, the attempt can be repeated several times. During stable operation, rev the throttle several times and the idle speed should return to the acceptable range.

The procedure for learning the throttle using a PC and car programs has its own specifics, depending on the brand of car, etc. Therefore, it makes no sense to describe the entire process in detail. But first you need to install special software on your PC, for example, VAG-COM for a VAG car group (or other) and drivers. The following is the standard connection order for all:

  • turning on the ignition;
  • connecting the PC to the car diagnostic connector with an information wire;
  • launching software on a PC;
  • conducting a test;
  • receiving information about readiness for further work - the inscription: “The adapter is ready for work.”

Following a special algorithm, you will be able to coordinate the remote control and the ECU in the “throttle fully open/fully closed” modes for cars with both an electronic and mechanical gas pedal. In this case, the throttle valve training is carried out when the car is warm and the above requirements are met.

  1. Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly
  2. Electronic gas pedal Lada Granta
  3. Malfunctions of the electronic gas pedal
  4. Cleaning the electronic throttle valve E-Gas Lada Granta 16V

Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly

The throttle valve is turned by an electric motor through a gearbox. Both are built into the throttle body. When starting and warming up the engine, as well as during idling, the flow of air into the cylinders is regulated by opening the throttle valve. The throttle position is controlled by two sensors built into the throttle body.

The throttle valve opening angle is set by the electronic control unit (ECU) depending on the estimated amount of air that should enter the engine cylinders. This takes into account the operating mode of the engine (starting, warming up, idling, and so on), the temperature of the ambient air and the engine, and the position of the gas pedal.

Control commands are sent to the throttle assembly to the electric motor. At the same time, the ECU monitors the opening angle of the damper and, if necessary, sends appropriate commands to adjust its position. As a result of the fact that the ECU simultaneously regulates the amount of injected fuel and incoming air, the optimal composition of the combustible mixture is maintained in any engine operating mode.

The electric throttle body is sensitive to deposits that may accumulate on its inner surface. The resulting layer of deposits can interfere with the smooth movement of the throttle valve, jamming it (especially at low opening angles). As a result, the engine will operate unstably and even stall at idle, start poorly, and failures may also appear during transient conditions. To avoid this, as a preventive measure, deposits should be removed with special detergent compounds during regular vehicle maintenance. A large layer of deposits can completely block the movement of the damper. If flushing fails to restore the throttle assembly to operability, it must be replaced.

A malfunction or incorrect operation of the throttle assembly may be caused by a broken contact in its electrical circuit (oxidized terminals in the wiring harness connection block). In this case, it will be possible to restore operation by treating the terminals with a special compound for cleaning and protecting electrical contacts. There are other possible causes of the malfunction:

— no supply voltage is supplied to the throttle assembly;

— signals are not received from both throttle position sensors;

— The computer cannot recognize signals from the throttle position sensors.

In these cases, the engine control system goes into emergency mode. At the same time, the car retains the ability to independently move a short distance at a slow speed, which, in extreme cases, will allow it to be moved to a safe place

(move to the side of the road, leave the intersection, etc.).

The fact that the throttle assembly is operating in emergency mode may be indicated by a burning indicator lamp for a malfunction of the engine management system and an increased speed of the crankshaft at idle (about 1500 rpm, despite the fact that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature), the engine at this will not respond to pressing the gas pedal.

Each of the throttle position sensors is a potentiometer. During operation, gradual wear of conductive paths and moving contacts occurs. Over time, wear can reach such an extent that the sensor cannot function correctly. The presence of two sensors increases the reliability of the entire unit.

If only one sensor fails, the warning lamp will light up, but the engine management system will switch to backup mode. In this case, the engine will respond adequately to pressing the gas pedal, but with worse performance parameters

The reserve mode allows you to drive your car to the repair site under your own power.

Electronic gas pedal Lada Granta

On modern cars, instead of the usual cable drive for throttle control, a so-called “electronic gas pedal” is installed. In such cars, the throttle position is controlled electronically. When you press or release the gas pedal, information about this goes to the control unit (ECU) and only after processing and adjustment is a command given to the throttle module. The pros and cons of such a system, as well as signs of malfunctions, will be discussed in this article.

For those who are accustomed to mechanical drives, where pressing the gas pedal directly causes the throttle to move, driving a car with an electronic system will be unusual and unknown. To understand, you need to understand the principle of operation of the “electronic pedal” and its difference from a conventional mechanical one.

The main “miscalculations” of VAZ

Of course, no matter how much VAZ praises e-gas, this mechanism also has serious drawbacks. For example, if it fails, this device cannot be repaired. A complete replacement will be required, which will be very expensive. Although today there are “traditional craftsmen” who have adapted to repair the device themselves, this is not always effective - driving with such e-gas is even dangerous.

As for the responsiveness of the car, not everything is clear here either. Many motorists claim that the old Kalinas were much easier to pedal and responded better to pressure. E-gas responds to them with a delay, and this can become a critical problem, especially if you need to quickly avoid a collision or simply quickly overtake.

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