What kind of fluid is poured into the power steering of the Hyundai Solaris: let’s get to the bottom of it

Hyundai Solaris is a compact car designed for the Russian market. In other countries this car is known by other names. Introduced in 2010, Solaris received maximum adaptation to Russian conditions and soon became a best-seller among foreign cars on the domestic market. The first generation was relevant with gasoline engines 1.4 and 1.6.

In 2014, the front-wheel drive sedan and hatchback were modernized, and in 2022, production of the second generation Solaris began. Built on the basis of its predecessor, the new model received an original appearance, a more modern interior and modernized 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines. Transmissions – 5-speed manual or 6-speed automatic. The closest competitors are Lada Vesta, Volkswagen Polo, Kia Rio and Renault Logan.

How much oil is in the power steering Hyundai Solaris

First generation RB, 2010-2017

The first generation Solaris was initially available in Russia as a sedan, and then production of a hatchback began. The St. Petersburg-assembled car was technically similar to the Accent IV model for the Korean and American markets, as well as the Verna for the Chinese market. At the same time, the closest related model is the Kia Rio.

Solaris received 1.4 (107 hp) and 1.6 liter (123 hp) gasoline engines, operating with manual transmission-5 and automatic transmission-4, respectively. After restyling in 2014, the appearance was improved and the interior was modified. In particular, it became possible to adjust the steering wheel for reach, a heated windshield and new seat upholstery. 1.6 engines became available with a 6-speed automatic transmission.

Color classification

How much fuel does Hyundai solaris consume?

It is wrong to be guided only by color gradation when choosing oil, although this practice is widespread among car owners. It is also often indicated what color liquids can be mixed and which ones should not be mixed.

Mixing is contraindicated with liquids based on composition and not color, and since now both mineral water and synthetics can be presented in any color, you should treat this information very carefully. Red ATF gear oil, usually synthetic, the Dexron brand from General Motors is considered the reference, but there are products from other manufacturers, such as Revenol, Motul, Shell, Zic, etc.

Yellow oil, produced by the Daimler concern and under its license, is used in Mercedes-Benz hydraulic boosters. Available in synthetic and mineral

Red ATF gear oil is usually synthetic, the Dexron brand from General Motors is considered the standard, but there are products from other manufacturers, such as Revenol, Motul, Shell, Zic, etc. Yellow oil, produced by the Daimler concern and under its license, is used in Mercedes-Benz hydraulic boosters. It can be synthetic and mineral.

Green oil. For the most part, multifunctional and universal liquids can be either synthetic or mineral in composition. They are used in power steering, suspension and other systems that operate on liquids. It cannot be mixed with other colors, except in cases where the manufacturer declares full compatibility, for example Comma PSF MVCHF is compatible with some types of Dexron.

Replacing power steering fluid

So I was amusing myself with replacing the fluid in the power steering. I’ve been wanting to replace it for a long time, but I didn’t have time. I chose the liquid itself in a trivial way: it’s the original. In principle, everyone knows the number of the liquid, but I’ll write it 0310000130.

Replacement is as easy as a brick. I raised the front of the car so that the steering wheel could turn easily.

I used a large syringe to pump out the contents of the tank.

I removed the return hose and placed it in a bottle. Then he began to turn the steering wheel, the old slurry began to flow into the bottle. This is the kind of slurry that turned out to be for a mileage of 34 k.

The slurry did not show through at all, and this was only for 34 kopecks. I’m afraid to imagine what color the slurry is in cars with high mileage. Next, I removed the reservoir and cleaned it with carburetor cleaner. There were small black particles at the bottom of the barrel.

Then I poured the slurry into the reservoir and began pumping the system. As soon as fresh fluid began to flow, the return hose was put back in place. This is what fresh slurry looks like.

Then I started the engine and started pumping the slurry. The first sensations showed that the steering wheel turns easier, but this may be self-hypnosis. Time will show.

What oil to fill in power steering Hyundai Solaris

Original

The power steering of a Hyundai Solaris car is filled with original synthetic oil Hyundai PSF 4. It is developed by the Mobis company, and the liquid is produced by S-Oil Total Libricants, GS Calfex, Michang and SK Lubricants. A special feature of the oil is a comprehensive set of anti-foam, anti-corrosion and anti-oxidation properties that ensure reliable operation of the hydraulic booster at any time of the year, regardless of permissible temperature conditions.

Unoriginal

When choosing power steering oil for a Hyundai Solaris, you can pay attention to fluid from well-known brands with PSF 4 approval. Analogs are usually preferred by owners of cars from previous years of production - for example, the first generation Solaris. Alternative products include GS PSF 4, Kixx PSF 4, ZIC PSF-4, and Shell LHM-S, Motul Multi HF, Pentosin CHF 11S, Ravenol SSF Fluid and Castrol CHF are also suitable.

Hyundai Solaris maintenance cost

Having data on the prices of consumables and a list of work for each maintenance, you can calculate how much maintenance for a Hyundai Solaris will cost for a given mileage. The numbers will still be approximate, since a number of consumables do not have an exact replacement frequency. In addition, you can take cheaper analogues (which will save money) or have the maintenance done at a service center (you will need to pay extra for its services).

In general, everything looks like this. The first maintenance, in which the oil is changed, along with the oil and cabin filters, is basic, since its procedures are relevant for all subsequent services. With MOT 2, a brake fluid change will be added to them. During the third maintenance, the oil, oil, cabin and air filters, as well as antifreeze are replaced. Maintenance 4 is the most expensive, since it includes all the procedures of the first two maintenance, and in addition - replacing the fuel filter and spark plugs.

More on the topic: Installing covers on Hyundai Solaris

Step-by-step instruction

You can change the technical composition yourself within 30 minutes. Details can be found in the video instructions, but an experienced car owner can easily cope without additional help.

To start the process of replacing the Hyundai Solaris power steering fluid you will need:

• standard set of tools;
• a convenient place where you can lock the car;
• funnel;
• a syringe with a volume of more than 150 ml, with which you can fill the composition;
• 2-3 containers, preferably plastic.

The change is made in several stages:

• the composition is pumped out from the expansion tank, a syringe is used for this;
• use pliers to loosen the clamp connecting the tank to the return pipeline;
• the end of the hose is discharged into one of the free containers;
• the steering wheel is turned several times by hand in both directions to completely free the system from fluid;
• the tank is inspected to find sediment; if sediment is detected, the sediment is washed out using a special product;
• the upper hose is returned and fixed, the lower hose is removed and lowered into the prepared container;
• while constantly rotating the steering wheel, drain the old fluid while adding new fluid;
• the lower pipeline is returned to its place and secured, the tank is filled with power steering fluid to the lower mark;
• The car starts and warms up; if foam appears, the steering wheel should be turned until the air lock is completely removed.
• The replacement process is complete; if liquid gets on painted body parts, it should be immediately washed off with a degreaser (solvent).

Replacing power steering fluid

Changed the power steering fluid.
From the factory it was filled with NEW PSF-3 light brown semi-synthetic 03100-00110, replaced with ULTRA PSF-4 green synthetic 03100-00130 produced by GS. Then I removed the tank to wash it. Dirt is visible on the strainer.

I put a tube of suitable diameter on the return line and lowered it into the bottle.

First, I rotated the steering wheel from lock to lock, the total was 450g, then I connected the car compressor and rotated the steering wheel in the same way. He did not create pressure, he simply pushed the remaining liquid through the system. In total we managed to pump out 550g. Then he started the engine for 3 seconds in the extreme position of the steering wheel. A total of 600g was pumped out. It didn't work anymore.

Then he put the tank in place, plugged the return line on the tank, filled in new fluid and pumped out the remaining fluid from the system using the displacement method.

In total it turned out

925g and the light liquid is gone.

Then I assembled everything, the main thing is not to forget to replace the return jet.

I filled it to the maximum and turned the steering wheel until the fluid stopped coming out. Then I started it up and topped it up to the COLD MAX mark.

Source

Reviews

Leonid, Tomsk. Solaris is also Solaris in Africa - we have a dime a dozen of them, especially first-generation cars. I remember a similar story happened with the Matiz, which my wife enjoys driving. I have a 2015 Solaris - a restyled version with a more stylish face and additional options. The unpretentious 1.6 engine consumes 10-11 liters.

Daria, Belgorod. I am the owner of a second generation Solaris, purchased last year. The car is from the first owner, a 2017 model with a 1.4 engine (100 hp) and manual transmission. A good and proven option for working in a taxi. Despite its simple and proven design, Solaris, with a mileage of 63 thousand km, has never failed.

How to replace the lamps yourself

Changing a light bulb in Kalina yourself is not difficult. The time spent on the work depends on the skill of the driver and the size of the hands. Some owners change light fixtures in 15-20 minutes without removing the headlight, while others suffer for more than an hour and ultimately dismantle the optics.

When replacing, cloth gloves are used. This helps protect the skin on your hands and also prevents contact with the bulb. When touched, fingerprints remain, which heat up when the light is turned on and after a while burn through the thin glass.

During work, the battery terminal is unscrewed to avoid a short circuit, which will lead to burnout of the fuse link in the fuse box.

Tips for using power steering

In order for the hydraulic booster to work normally and not knock, you must follow a few simple rules:

• Monitor the oil level in the power steering system, top up and change it on time. In addition, check its condition. There is always a risk of purchasing a low-quality liquid, which becomes unusable after a short period of use (check its color and smell).
• Do not hold the wheels in the extreme position (both left and right) for a long time (more than 5 seconds). This is harmful for the power steering pump, which operates without cooling.
• When parking the vehicle, always leave the front wheels level (straight). This will take the load off the power steering system the next time you start the engine. This advice is especially relevant in cold weather, when the oil thickens.
• If problems occur with the power steering (humming, knocking, increased effort when turning the steering wheel), do not delay repairs. You will not only fix the breakdown at a lower cost, but also protect your car, you and your loved ones from possible emergency situations.
• Constantly monitor the condition of the steering rack. This is especially true for the condition of anthers and seals. This way you will not only extend its service life, but also save money on expensive repairs.

Replacing power steering fluid

Back in March, maybe even a little earlier, I opened the hood to look at the oil level and noticed fresh oil stains on the power steering tubes, near the reservoir, at the junction of the rubber and metal ones. Well, the fluid level itself was at Min Cold even with the car fully warmed up. I wiped the tubes dry, sprinkled a little dust on them for clarity, and decided to ride it to see if it would sniffle again or not. In the end, everything is normal, the tubes are dry, the fluid level does not change. Ok, I think on the way home I’ll stop by a familiar service station where I was periodically serviced, to consult with more understanding people. The technician, having carefully examined everything, made a verdict - hammer in the bolt and drive like that, but the leak could have been due to the fact that the wheel hit an obstacle somewhere and put a little more load on the system. But I decided to hammer in the bolt before the weather warmed up, and then change the entire fluid. I'll return the level and update it. It’s unknown how long she’s already run, but it wouldn’t hurt.

I, expecting to see a blue bottle with the inscription PSF-4, began to look at this bottle in bewilderment. The molding is neat, the stickers are even, the text is literate (as far as I could judge based on my knowledge of Korean), the Hyundai inscription and a picture of the steering wheel. Therefore, everything is normal and you need to take it! The seller announced the price tag of 400 rubles and added, “I can give you the original one, but it’s the same and costs 2 times more. See for yourself." The desire to save money took over, especially since it seemed like some kind of branded oil. Therefore, having paid for the sensor with oil, I went to install the sensor, and put the bottle in a box with the full intention of studying the reviews, looking at the characteristics, and if something went wrong, return it back to the store.

I didn't find any reviews for it. None at all. On the forums, too, everyone preferably pours the original PSF-4 oil, in rare cases also the original PSF-3 oil. Well, the description of this oil is as follows: High-quality fluid for the power steering system (power steering) on ​​a mineral basis, which can be used in a wide range of ambient temperatures Meets or exceeds the requirements: PSF-3 KS M 2129 ISO VG 32

I found the characteristics for it only on one site, let’s compare:

Based on all the information found, everything seems to be fine, you can start pouring. But the oil is listed as mineral and until I assessed the change in fluidity at negative temperatures, I did not calm down. I took a pyrometer from work (error 2 degrees), stuck it in the freezer overnight and in the morning I got:

And then everything turned out fine. In theory, you can pour it, test it, and then write the first review in history for this product. But having some doubts, with breaks for about a week, I decided to still order and upload the original under PSF-4. Yes, it’s more expensive, but this is definitely a proven oil, which was filled from the factory and is synthetic, and it’s not clear what to expect from mineral water over time in the cold, one night is not an indicator. This will definitely make me feel safer.

It was not possible to return to the XTeer store “Oils and household chemicals. funds cannot be returned or exchanged,” they answered me by phone. I thought and thought and decided to fill in this oil for now, flush the system with it, and then pour in PSF-4, because it would hardly be possible to sell it externally. But no. A friend decided to help me get rid of this red bottle and at the same time try it in his Nexia. I just wanted to change it for myself too. So we decided to change it in one day at once, it’s still easier with two pairs of hands (and in the end there were already 3 of them) and more fun.

As soon as the liquid ordered at the autodoc arrived, we began replacing it.

The replacement principle is known to everyone and is quite simple; I won’t describe it. Just a couple of photos of how they hung it in front and the clean, washed tank full of new liquid as a result. The old one, naturally, was all dark and dirty.

My friend messed up a little with the sequence of actions, hurried a little and mixed new oil with a large remainder of the old oil in the system. As a result, it turned from light red to almost burgundy, unfortunately I didn’t take a photo.

After the replacement, at first for some reason I felt vibration on the steering wheel in extreme positions and the speed dropped. I got home, turned around slowly, and it was fine. I'll make sure I haven't violated the replacement sequence. Most likely, not all the air came out during bleeding. Well, otherwise I didn’t notice any changes. The steering wheel turns as easily as before, there is no noise. The level on a warm car is slightly below MAX Hot. When the steering wheel rotates, it stays in place and does not change volume.

Thank you everyone for taking the time to read.