VAZ 2110 starter: how to replace and design features

Design and principle of operation

The VAZ 2110 starter does not have a very complex design, but a person who wants to repair this mechanism should know that its elements include:

1. Drive shaft;
2. Hubs with ring;
3. Cover sleeve;
4. Gears equipped with teeth and a coupling ring;
5. Carrier;
6. Drive shaft supports equipped with a liner;
7. Anchor core.
8. Gear axles are of the planetary variety.
9. Permanent magnet;
10. Gaskets;
11. Frame;
12. Collector;
13. Lever bracket;
14. Drive lever;
15. The back cover is equipped with a special sleeve;
16. Anchor relay and shaft;
17. Holding winding;
18. Brush holder;
19. Traction relay core;
20. Contact plate and bolts;
21. Staples.

The starter components described most often require replacement, diagnosis or repair when problems occur.

Four devices creating a magnetic field are mounted to the starter housing. On the inside they are secured with an aluminum sleeve. The lid is tightly attached to the body. Reliable fixation is ensured thanks to two studs. The anchor shaft rotates in special bearings.

The starter plays a major role in starting the car, as it rotates the crankshaft

Through a planetary type gearbox, the torque “goes” to the drive shaft. Its transmission is ensured by a special gear. After the vehicle starts moving, it ensures their separation in order to protect the gearbox from damage.

When starting the engine, voltage is transmitted to two windings of the traction relay. After closing the contacts it stops working. The voltage should not exceed 8 V. If its value is higher or lower, then this “indicates” that there is a problem in the system.

The starter on the VAZ 2110 is located to the left and slightly below the battery

History of application

Electric starters were not used immediately, although at the beginning of the 20th century there were even electric cars. At first, engines were started simply by turning the crankshaft manually. The first starting devices for automobiles were pneumatic and operated on compressed air. For example, the Rolls-Royce of Russian Emperor Nicholas II was equipped with such a device. However, the pneumatic starter circuit was cumbersome and capricious. And, as soon as electric motors began to be suitable in size and power for the needs of the automotive industry, designers switched to designing electric starters. They are still used today.

Where is the VAZ 2110 starter relay located?

The solenoid relay is built inside the main body along with the starter itself. To dismantle, you need to follow the following algorithm:

1. Determine the location of the starter itself. It is located to the left, just below the battery. You need to look for it in the immediate vicinity of the checkpoint.
2. Disconnect the negative contact from the battery. This will help avoid troubles during dismantling (electric shock).
3. Dismantle the air filter to free up the “passage” for further actions.
4. Disconnect all wires that go to the relay.
5. Dismantle the nut that serves as a fastener for the end of the wire. For this procedure you need a key of 13.
6. Unscrew the nuts that focus the starter itself. To unscrew them, you need to use a 15mm wrench. The top one can be unscrewed without any noticeable problems, but to remove the bottom one, you will need to apply a noticeable force (it is located in an inconvenient place).
7. Completely remove the starter.
8. Remove the nut that secures the output of the relay that performs the retracting functions, and disconnect the wiring.
9. Unscrew the bolts securing the relay (you need to use a wrench and remove it.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

The following article will help you dismantle the starter yourself in a garage:

Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. not used.

Node malfunctions

The most common starter breakdowns are divided into several types. These include:

1. Damage to the electrical circuit. A sign of such problems is slow rotation or complete absence of it at the crankshaft when starting the internal combustion engine. The reasons for this phenomenon may be a discharge of the battery, rupture of the contacts of the ignition device, unreliable fixation, wear of the wires, or violation of the integrity of the wiring suitable for the relay contact group. If, when starting the internal combustion engine, the armature does not respond and the relay does not operate, then the cause of the failure is most likely due to a break in the solenoid relay wire. In the absence of the described “symptoms”, it is necessary to dismantle, check the plates for short circuits, and the presence of traces of “burning” in the collector system.
2. Worn starter brushes. The presence of such problems may be indicated by difficulty starting the car, but not always. The reason for this phenomenon may be “hidden” in a battery failure. Complete wear of the brushes leads to the spring “resting” against the brush holder (contact is ensured only due to its mass). This can be easily checked by changing the position of the starter. The reason for premature wear is the misalignment of the brushes during the operation of the starter.
3. Broken traction relay. This is indicated by a failure of the internal combustion engine, since it will not be possible to start the engine without a working relay. The “symptoms” of a malfunction of this starter element include its rapid rotation, even after starting the internal combustion engine, idling movement (without contact with the flywheel of the engine, which does not start), and a click after turning the key in the ignition device. It may not exist if there is a break in the coil, the armature is jammed, or there is no power for some reason.
4. Lack of starter rotation with a characteristic “buzzing” sound. This phenomenon indicates the occurrence of a short circuit in the electrical circuit, in which power is supplied to the brushes of the electric motor. However, it is in working condition. In such a situation, the holding coil often does not work and the bendix does not move. Its gear cannot engage the flywheel gear, and the electric motor runs in idle mode. The reason may be that the force of the retracting element “enters” the bendix through a lever made of plastic (has the shape of a grip). If the movement resistance of the bendix is ​​high, then the plastic elements break down. As a result, it is not moved to the working position and the starter rotates, but does not transmit torque to the flywheel. Another reason for the failure of the rotor can be severe wear of the teeth, which are located on the rotor shaft of the electric motor. Do not forget that complete destruction of the mentioned teeth can also cause failure. This type of malfunction is related to the breakdown of the motor and is not related to the functioning of the drive. The presence of such a breakdown is indicated by the activation of all starter mechanisms, that is, the rotation of the electric motor and the transition of the bendix to the working position. It can be locked by turning the key in the ignition.

Many car enthusiasts complain that the battery discharges quickly and cannot activate the starter. You can read about the reasons for battery discharge here:

The main malfunctions of the unit include: the appearance of oxide on the wires and terminals, failure of the traction relay and traction winding, wear of the brushes, breakage of the armature

The listed faults can cause more serious problems if they are not corrected in time. Ignoring problems will most likely lead to vehicle failure at the most inopportune moment. The best solution is to contact a specialized service station when the first signs of the listed problems appear.

The following material will help you figure out why the starter does not turn in a VAZ 2110 car:

DIY starter repair

Maintenance or repair of the starter must be carried out in accordance with certain algorithms, compliance with which requires certain experience and knowledge, as well as the use of the necessary tools. Troubleshooting always begins with disassembling the starter, after which diagnostics are carried out, and if problems are detected, repairs are carried out.

Tools and Supplies

To troubleshoot, you need to prepare the following tools:

1. Socket heads for 13 and 15.
2. Extension.
3. Handle equipped with a ratchet.
4. Ohmmeter.
5. A special analyzer equipped with a light bulb.
6. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.

Spare parts will be used as consumables to replace failed components. You can determine which parts require replacement at the diagnostic stage described above. To repair the starter, it is recommended to use only high-quality parts.

How to remove and disassemble

To prepare for repairs, it is necessary to completely disassemble the starter. This procedure should be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Remove the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the air filter housing to ensure convenience for further operations.
3. Disconnect the wire leading to the traction relay.
4. Place the disconnected wiring to the side so that it does not interfere with further repairs.
5. Unscrew the nuts that secure the starter to the gearbox.
6. Remove the unit and carry out further repairs in more convenient conditions.
7. Disconnect the wire that is in contact with the mounting bolt.
8. Remove the traction relay. To do this, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure it.
9. Remove the relay armature. To do this, you need to lift it up a little, and then remove the loop from the lever.
10. Unscrew the nuts securing the tie rods.
11. Remove the cover with the drive, as well as the gearbox assembly.
12. Completely “remove” the tie rods. This will make it easier to further remove the drive and gearbox.
13. Remove the planetary gears. They need to be replaced if there is damage to the teeth or the integrity of the needle bearings is compromised.
14. Replace the brush holder assembly (if necessary).
15. Remove the cover from the manifold side.
16. Unscrew the two screws and then remove the brush holder from the cover.
17. Bend the clips and remove the spring.
18. Check the anchor for defects. To do this, you need to remove it from the case.
19. Remove the gear from the anchor shaft.
20. Remove the armature from the stator mechanism.
21. Remove the sealing support from the lever.
22. Knock the stopper off the retaining ring using a special mandrel.
23. Dismantle the restrictor and retaining rings.
24. Remove the drive assembly.

General view of a completely disassembled starter

Assembly must be done in reverse order.

Troubleshooting

When conducting a full check of the functionality of the VAZ 2110 starter, you must act in accordance with the following algorithm:

1. Check how well the unit rotates. If the crankshaft moves poorly, you should pay attention to the presence of lubricant and, if necessary, lubricate the mechanisms. There are situations when the oil does not correspond to the current season. Replacing it with a more suitable one will solve the problem.
2. Check the battery for charge and oxidation of tips and inputs. If necessary, it is necessary to charge and replace failed elements. In such a situation, it is necessary to carry out maintenance of the contact group and the battery itself, after which the functioning of the starter will be restored.
3. Inspect the brushes and check the tightness of the wire ends. To do all the necessary actions, you will need to dismantle and disassemble the device, clean the commutator, replace the brushes and adjust the degree of spring tension.
4. Determine the presence or absence of clutch slipping. If necessary, it is necessary to completely replace the starter drive. Another way to solve the problem is to wash the threaded shaft and then lubricate it.
5. Inspect the flywheel ring teeth for nicks. Their presence may be indicated by a characteristic grinding sound. To eliminate it, you will need to eliminate the nicks or install a new buffer spring if the old one is noticeably weakened.
6. Carry out diagnostics of the starter pole fastening. Its weakening may be indicated by the characteristic noise present during operation of the mechanism. The problem can be solved by securely fastening the starter or reinforcing the said fastening.

To ensure that the bolt is in contact with the plate, it is necessary to measure the resistance on the contact bolts

If you check using the described algorithm, you will be able to accurately determine the “source” of the malfunction and effectively eliminate it. However, there are breakdowns that cannot be eliminated during an inspection.