Modification of the windshield wiper relay, changing the number of wiper strokes on Lada

How to check the wiper relay on a VAZ 2110

Hello.
Yesterday the intermittent wipers stopped working. I wanted to brush the snow off the glass (I’ve done this a hundred times), but they twitched a little and that’s all. When you spray on the glass, the wipers are also silent. The relay clicks. Fast and slow work, but when turned off they stop where they turned off, without returning to their original position. Where should I look? There was a relay that clicked, but it didn’t work either, the contact group in it was burnt out. it worked once.

at the same time, what it is and what it is not. without it, the wipers only move in the third position. You can unhook it altogether and check how it goes

There was such a thing. I drove in heavy rain and the wipers failed. Only the fastest mode worked.

I also thought about the relay (the relay also clicked) and the motor. I bought this relay and installed it. but there's no point. I was already planning to buy a new windshield wiper, but I decided to check the contacts first. Is current supplied to the motor?

It turned out everything was banal. The terminals oxidized a little and the contact was lost. I took everything apart, cleaned it and lubricated it. work fine! Hemorrhoids are only full with analysis of Shumka and toad

Alternative

When choosing wipers, not only their size matters, but also the device, as well as the manufacturer. For VAZ 2110 of all years of manufacture there is one size for the wiper on the driver or passenger side - 20″ (wiper length 508 mm).

However, you should know that you can usually increase the size to 53 cm, but no more, otherwise the windshield wipers will not cope with the task assigned to them, and the drive may fail, because the leash is not designed for such a load. In addition, such wipers creak during operation and can operate jerkily.

If the size is chosen incorrectly, the mechanism will fail faster. In principle, many people use the “original” VAZ wipers and are satisfied with them. But it is possible to modify windshield wipers from other companies, often of higher quality.

For example, for many, frameless brushes (especially Boshevsky ones) are very attractive. They are compact and have a special leash mechanism. However, they do not look particularly nice on a VAZ, since their fastening to the arm of a regular frame wiper turns out to be massive. These brushes need some work.

This material will help you figure out why your car windows sweat: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/salon/poteyut-stekla.html

The VAZ 2112/2111 model has a rear wiper, its size is 11″ (27.9 cm).

Both regular replacement and modification of wipers begin with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then you need to pull the wiper towards you and remove the brushes.

If there is a decorative trim, it should be removed. Unscrew the bolt and remove the old wiper. Be sure to compare the size of the new windshield wiper with the old one. It will be better if the size of the windshield wiper on the VAZ 2110 does not exceed its predecessor by more than 2 cm. Install everything in the reverse order.

Wipers do not work on VAZ 2110 - reasons and repairs

An indispensable attribute of the VAZ 2110, like any other car, is windshield wipers. Their colloquial name is “windshield wipers”. Their purpose is to clean the glass from water stains and dirt in case of bad weather. Of course, the work of wipers is most often necessary in the off-season, when there is the most rainfall. During these periods, without properly functioning windshield wipers, driving a car is not only difficult, but dangerous.

Like any other important component of the VAZ 2110, the wipers need regular inspection and, if necessary, repair. This usually happens once every five years. But you may have to start repairing your windshield wipers earlier - if they start working slowly or don’t work at all.

Repairing windshield wipers is not difficult; any self-respecting car enthusiast is quite capable of doing it himself. Below we will look at algorithms for repairing wipers on a VAZ 2110, and even how to completely replace them correctly.

But let's start by considering all the elements that ensure the operation of the windshield wiper:

Alternative solutions

Most car owners of the domestic “ten” are accustomed to replacing worn out and faulty windshield wipers with similar ones.

Often this happens because they do not see alternatives and are not familiar with them.

But this size can be increased to 530 millimeters. It is not recommended to install more, since this way the windshield wiper will not be able to work effectively, and the drive simply will not cope with the load. As a result, too long brushes cause squeaking and jerky work. Plus, don’t count on a long service life of the wiper mechanisms.

The original windshield wipers for the 10 are quite good. But there are more expensive, but also more highly efficient, high-quality devices.

Today it is fashionable to use frameless wipers, especially from Bosch. Their advantages lie in their compactness and a special, reliable leash mechanism.

But as practice shows, on the windshield of the VAZ 2110, as well as other VAZ models, they do not look very nice, because the fasteners on the leash turn out to be massive. Although if you modify them a little, you will get a very good result.

Electrical part

It includes:

• The electric motor of the windshield wiper itself;
• Windshield washer motor;
• The windshield wiper and washer switch is located under the steering wheel of the VAZ 2110;
• The main and additional relays are located in the mounting block and provide cyclic operation of the wipers;
• Bimetallic fuse is thermal in type; its limit switch is located in the gearbox of the windshield wiper motor.

Device

General structure of the windshield wiper system:

1. As everyone knows, the wipers are driven into a state of “swinging” of varying speeds by an electric motor, which has a built-in gearbox, and the motor runs on direct current. Three brushes are “built-in” in the motor armature, with the help of which the VAZ 2110 wipers operate in three modes. There are only two speed frequencies: one for fast movement (for example, during a rainstorm), the second for slow or intermittent movement;
2. The electrical component is the switch (under the steering wheel); relay switching on intermittent mode; additional relay; switch. The entire electrical system is connected by wires (in blocks) through a thermal bimetallic fuse. Moreover, both one and the other relay, as well as fuse F5, are located in the mounting part, and a bimetallic fuse with a limit switch is located in the electric motor gearbox;
3. Directly windshield wipers. Their size is important, as well as the material, shape, and device. Check whether the already installed ones squeak, whether the mechanism and the leash are working, perhaps they need improvement;
4. Mechanics. First of all, this is a drive that can break.

Mechanical part

It includes:

• The brushes themselves - their working part is made of rubber and is subject to fairly rapid wear;
• A trapezoid is a structure made of metal guides; they ensure the conversion of the rotation of the electric motor into the actual operation of the wipers. The trapezoid is subject to deformation and clogging of the joints.

Accordingly, from the structure of the windshield wiper assembly, it follows that all breakdowns belong to two groups:

Consider mechanical breakdowns

1. If, after turning on the wipers, their electric motor is clearly working, but the wipers themselves do not move or twitch convulsively, then the reason for this is the loosening of the nut securing the trapezoid crank of the wipers to the axis of the electric motor gearbox. Sometimes this nut does not just loosen, but is completely twisted.

1. The wipers work, but the synchronization and smoothness of their movements are disrupted. In this case, the cause of the breakdown is the so-called “leash”. The nut holding it in place loosens.

Both of the considered breakdowns can be corrected by simply tightening the nut securing the wiper units. Of course, before this you need to put the wipers themselves (their mechanical part) in the correct starting position.

Electrical breakdowns are as follows:

1. The electric motor does not work completely . After turning on the wipers, you can’t hear them working and the wipers themselves remain motionless. The cause of this breakdown will most likely be stuck motor brushes - then they need to be returned to the correct position. Less often, the armature burns out - in this case, you will have to completely replace both the electric motor and the gearbox (they are sold only as a set).

1. You can't hear the electric motor running . The wipers also don't move. After they are turned on, only the click of the bimetallic fuse is heard. The reason for this in winter is almost always freezing of the electric motor brushes. Often after this, when persistently trying to turn on the wipers, the bimetallic fuse or, less often, the electric motor armature itself blows. This problem can be easily solved by simply thawing the brushes and removing moisture from them. In more serious cases, you need to replace it with a new fuse or the electric motor itself.

1. The wipers work, but in intermittent mode they continue to run continuously . At the same time, there are no sounds of alternating rotation of the electric motor armature. This problem is usually solved by simply replacing the control relay. But before doing this, you just need to check and re-clean the contacts of the limit switch - they sometimes oxidize or burn.

1. The work of the wipers is carried out slowly and with stops in unpredictable places of the working stroke. The windshield wipers do not occupy the lower position at all. In this case, the cause is most often the limit switch - you need to adjust it by bending the contacts. If incorrect operation continues, the electric motor will have to be completely replaced.

All work on servicing VAZ 2110 windshield wipers begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. After this, the frill is disconnected. It is advisable to do this, since all subsequent operations are significantly speeded up.

Next, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the entire structure of the wipers by moving them towards you. Their installation is carried out in reverse order.

Replacing wipers

When repairing an electrical component, you must first remove the dashboard to gain access and possibly replace the relay or fuse. After this, you can disassemble the steering column - the switch is located here. It also often needs to be replaced (for example, due to damaged insulation).

Often it is necessary to completely replace the wipers. Here you need to remember the following - wipers for all years of production of the VAZ 2110 are identical and interchangeable. If any other wipers are used (for example, foreign-made), then you need to make sure that their sizes match. The length of the VAZ 2110 wipers is exactly 20 inches (50.8 cm). Their increase by 1 - 2 centimeters will not be critical. But if the size of the wipers is much larger, then squeaking during operation, jerking and early failure are inevitable. The reason for this is that the permissible mass-dimensional load is exceeded.

Mechanical problems

Often the windshield wiper on a VAZ-2110 may not work due to a loose nut pressing the blade holder. This fault can be repaired in a few seconds. It is enough to tighten a poorly tightened nut to restore the functionality of the wipers. Some events may indicate an unscrewed nut:

1. When the electric motor is running, the brushes do not move.
2. The brushes stop working on their own in an intermediate position.

Also, brush holders may stop due to poor contact pressure in the gearmotor. If the teeth on the gearmotor gear are crumbled, the brushes will also not work.

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mechanics Often the wipers on a VAZ 2110 car do not work due to a banal loosening of the nut that presses the brush holder to the trapezoid shaft. You can restore the system's functionality instantly by adjusting the angle of the brush and tightening the lever with a nut.

An unscrewed nut that facilitates the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the trapezoid can be reported by one of two events:

• the electric motor remains operational in all modes, but both brushes do not move;
• the brushes spontaneously stop working in an intermediate position.

However, stopping of the brush holders in an arbitrary position can occur due to poor pressing of the “limit switch” contacts to the gear motor gear or oxidation/burning of the same contacts. And the brushes are not able to move even after chipping the teeth of the gears, which do not have a long service life - after all, they are made of plastic.

Windshield wiper failure can occur for quite trivial reasons:

• fuse F5 burned out;
• the terminals of the connecting blocks are oxidized or burnt;
• wires are faulty;
• relay K5 524.3747 broke;
• ordered the steering column switch to “live for a long time”;
• the nut that attracts the trapezoid crank to the gearbox has become loose;
• the nuts securing the levers to the trapezoid shafts were unscrewed;
• The brushes are frozen to the glass.

Often, wipers on models of the VAZ 2110 family do not work due to complex faults:

• oxidation/burning, insufficient pressing force of the contacts of the limit switch located on the gearbox cover;
• brushes hanging in the gearmotor;
• burnout/contamination of the collector;
• break in the armature winding;
• chipping of gear teeth in the gearbox.

Fuses and relays VAZ 2110 - 2112, electrical diagrams

If some devices on your VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2112 , fuses or relays may be to blame. At the very least, the first thing you need to do is check them, and then draw some conclusions regarding the malfunctions.

Correct diagnosis of many electrical problems will allow you to accurately determine the cause of the inoperability of a particular unit. To find out what the fuses and relays of the VAZ 2110 - 2112 are responsible for and how to find the right one, read this article.

As in many other cars, in the VAZ-2112 and VAZ-2110, when the engine is turned off, the devices are powered directly from the battery. When the engine is running, voltage is supplied to the devices from the generator, which simultaneously charges the battery. If the current exceeds the permissible value or a short circuit occurs, the circuit fuse will blow. Powerful electrical appliances are connected via relays.

Causes of malfunction

Therefore, if the brushes are completely frozen, or only squeak, the root cause should be sought in the electric motor. Not forgetting that in addition to electrical problems, there may be mechanical problems.

The most common ones are:

• When you turn on the windshield wiper, you can hear the motor running, but it only jerks or remains motionless. First of all, you need to suspect that the nut securing the crank to the gearbox axle has become unscrewed or loosened;
• If the windshield wipers operate but are not synchronized, the leash may be the culprit. Most likely, the nut securing it has become loose. Before tightening it, you need to put the wipers in the correct position.

If the electrical part is faulty, the symptoms will be:

• The wipers work slowly, stop wherever they want, and do not want to take the lower position. The limit switch may be to blame for this. Its adjustment consists of bending the contacts. If such repairs do not help, then the entire electric motor assembly needs to be replaced, since it is sold only together with the gearbox;
• Intermittent mode is turned on, but the brushes work without stopping. Most likely the relay has failed and needs to be replaced. This is definitely a relay if on a VAZ, when the intermittent mode is on, the noise of the rotating armature of the wiper motor is inaudible. But if the replacement did not help, the contacts of the limit switch may have oxidized or burnt;
• You turn on any of the modes, and you only hear the thermometallic fuse click. The brushes “stand still” and the anchor is also inaudible. First of all, check to see if the brushes are frozen and therefore do not move. By the way, fuse F5 often blows in this case. Another possible reason is that the anchor burned out;
• The electric motor does not work, although both fuses are intact. It is necessary to check all the contacts that the drive has, as well as the motor. Perhaps the brushes are stuck or the armature is burnt out.

The reasons for washer failure in a VAZ 2110 car are studied in detail in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/kuzov/bachok-omyvatelya.html

Fuse and relay box

The fuse and relay box is located on the left, lower part of the instrument panel. It is accessible by pressing the button and folding the lid down. To remove fuses, there are special non-conductive pliers in the upper left part of the mounting block.

1 - K5 - high beam relay . If the high beams in two headlights do not work, check this relay. If one of the high beam headlights does not work, check fuses F3 and F13, as well as the lamps and the high beam switch.

2 - K4 - low beam relay . If the low beam in both headlights does not work, check this relay. If only one low beam headlight does not work, check fuses F2 and F12, as well as the lamps themselves and the light switch.

3 - K1 - lamp health control relay.

4 - non-conductive tweezers for removing fuses.

5 - power window relay . If your power windows stop working, check this relay. It could also be in fuse F5, or in the window lift drive system itself. To get to the mechanism, you need to remove the door trim. Check the electric motor, the appearance of the gears and the absence of binding of the mechanism.

6 - K3 - turn signal and hazard warning relay . If your turn signals or hazard lights do not work, check this relay and fuse F16, as well as the turn signal lamps themselves and their switch.

7 - starter relay . If the car does not start and the starter does not turn, check this relay. It could also be a dead battery, as well as the starter mechanism itself.

8 - backup fuses.

9 - fog lamp relay . If the fog lights do not work, check this relay and fuses F4 and F14. Also check their connection diagram, the serviceability of the wiring and connectors, as well as the lamps in the headlights and the power button.

10 - K2 - windshield wiper and washer relay . If your windshield wipers or windshield washer are not working, check this relay. Also check the wiper motor, washer pump and washer fluid level in the washer reservoir.

11 - K7 - rear window heating relay . If the heating does not work and the rear window fogs up, check this relay and fuses F8 and F9. Also check the connection contacts to the terminal points of the heating elements (at the edges of the glass at the rear pillars). If everything is in order, but the heating does not work, the issue may be in the wiring (the wires are frayed or something else).

12 - K6 - add. relay, ignition relay . If your ignition does not turn on or is having problems with it, check this relay. This relay protects the ignition switch contacts from burning. Also check the ignition switch itself and the contact group.

13 - row of fuses F1-F10

14 - row of fuses F11-F20

Engine repair

Many people think that replacing the engine with a similar one in a foreign car can solve the problem of slow wiper operation, but in fact, cleaning and lubricating the “original” engine is quite simple.

READ The heater on Kalina doesn't heat well.

If the grip is causing speed, you need to check how easily the armature rotates: if movement is difficult, damage to the brushes or excessive wear on the brushes should be suspected. They are easy to exchange for new ones.

Cleaning the manifold will also help. You will need fine sandpaper. The need for this procedure is said:

• Visible contamination;
• Noticeable scratches;
• Grooves on the metal.

It is necessary to replace the valve or transmission with the engine running if the manifold is too worn or burnt out.

Adjusting the speed is necessary if the wipers are running too slowly. This contributes to:

• Incorrect (too “dense”) lubrication;
• Gear wear;
• Traction deformation.

Eliminating these problems basically makes the wipers work faster and, in addition, significantly.

Circuit breakers

Now let's see which fuses are responsible for what in the same mounting block. I will also give the main reasons for troubleshooting.

F1 (5 A) - license plate lighting lamps, dashboard lighting, side lights on the panel, trunk lamp, left side lights . If any of the listed lamps do not work, check this fuse, as well as the lamps themselves and their contacts. If everything is in order, check the headlight switch button.

F2 (7.5 A) - low beam in the left headlight . If both low beam headlights do not work, also check relay K4 and the lamps themselves. It could also be the light switch and its contacts.

F3 (10 A) - high beam in the left headlight . If both high beam headlights do not work, check the K5 relay, the lamps themselves and the high beam switch knob.

F4 (10 A) - front fog lamp on the right side . If both fog lights do not work, check relay 9 and the headlight bulbs themselves, as well as the switch and its contacts.

F5 (30 A) - window lift motors . If the power windows do not work, check this fuse and relay 5. In winter, check if the windows are frozen, warm them up and clear them of ice if necessary. It could also be the window lift motor, its mechanism and gears; in order to get to it, you need to remove the trim of the desired door.

F6 (15 A) - portable lamp fuse.

There may also be problems with the cigarette lighter. To check, unplug the cigarette lighter from the connector. If this fuse stops burning, then the problem is in the cigarette lighter.

F7 (20 A) - engine cooling fan, sound signal . If the cooling fan does not turn on and the engine overheats, check this fuse. Also check the operation of the fan motor by connecting it directly to the battery. It could also be the coolant temperature sensor or thermostat.

F8 (20 A) - heated rear window (element) . If the heating does not work and the rear window fogs up, check this fuse, fuse F9 and relay K7. Also check the contacts on the terminals of the heating elements, check the wiring, sometimes the wire frays. It could also be the heating switch and its contacts.

F9 (20 A) - recirculation valve, windshield wipers and washer, headlight washer, rear window heating relay coil . If the heating does not work, similar to the previous one. If the windshield wipers or washer do not work, also check relay K2, the fluid level in the washer reservoir, the washer pump, and the wiper motor. Another issue may be their switching handle, its wiring and contacts. The wires may be squashed or frayed and shorted to the housing.

F10 (20 A) - backup fuse.

F11 (5 A) - right side dimensions . If the left side does not work, check fuse F1. If none of the side lights work, check the light switch and its contacts. Also check the dimensions of the lamps themselves.

F12 (7.5 A) - low beam in the right headlight . Similar to fuse F2 for the left headlight.

F13 (10 A) - high beam in the right headlight, high beam lamp on the dashboard . Similar to fuse F3 for the right headlight. If the blue lamp on the panel does not light up when you turn on the high beams, check this fuse, as well as the lamp itself and the wiring to it.

F14 (10 A) - front fog lamp on the left side.

Similar to fuse F4 for the right fog light.

F15 (20 A) - seat heating, trunk locking . If the heated seats do not work, check this fuse and the power button on the dashboard, its contacts and wiring.

F16 (10 A) - direction indicators and hazard warning lights, hazard warning lamp . If the turn signals or hazard lights do not work, also check relay K3 and the lamps in the turn signals themselves, as well as the hazard light switch button.

F17 (7.5 A) - interior lighting, lighting, ignition switch lighting, brake lights, clock, on-board computer . If the brake lights do not work, check this fuse, the lamps themselves, and also the switch installed in the pedal unit.

F18 (25 A) - glove box lighting, heater controller, cigarette lighter . If the cigarette lighter does not work, check this fuse, disassemble the cigarette lighter and check for a short circuit in it, especially on the washer and contacts. Bend them if necessary or replace the entire cigarette lighter. Do not insert non-standard size connectors into it.

F19 (10 A) - door locks, control relay for brake lights and parking lights, turn signals and lamps for turning them on on the panel, reverse lamp, generator winding, control indication of the on-board system, dashboard, clock, on-board computer.

F20 (7.5 A) - rear fog lights.

If the rear fog lights do not work, check this fuse and relay 9. Also check the lamps themselves, wiring, connectors and the switch on the panel.

Never replace blown fuses with fuses of a higher rating (current), this can cause burnout of tracks on the mounting block, failure of devices, etc. In this case, repairs will cost more, so it is better to deal with the problem immediately and fix the problem. If you cannot find what’s wrong on your own, contact a car service; usually such problems are dealt with by electricians, who will not have any difficulty identifying the problem and fixing it.

Electromechanical problems

An electric motor that shows no signs of life, no click and a blown fuse F5 - all these problems indicate faults in the gearmotor, which can be eliminated by replacing one of the components:

• dirty collector in the electric motor rotor;
• brushes that ensure continuous contact in the motor;
• burnt collector;
• broken armature winding.

There are other options: the electric motor does not want to work, but there is a click, or the fuse blows. In this case, you need to return the left lever to its base position as quickly as possible, since these problems indicate a short circuit in the electric motor. It needs to be completely changed. With the same problems, there may be minor faults: brushes frozen to the glass, or wipers touching body parts. Under such circumstances, you need to carefully separate the brushes or straighten their mounting arms.

Features of the improvement

You don’t have to buy a windshield wiper relay with an adjustable pause, but simply modify it. This is a rather complicated process. It requires appropriate preparation from the master. You will need to have at least a basic level of soldering techniques and knowledge of electronics. It is for this reason that it is easier to buy a new device.

However, if you wish, you can carry out the modification yourself. To do this, you need to remove the cover and remove the board. The interval between strokes is controlled by a resistor. It is quite easy to find for a person who understands electronics. To create a pause of 4 seconds, the relay includes a 62 KOhm resistor. If you decrease this value, you can reduce the interval between strokes.

Additional items

Under the hood

Additional headlight wiper fuses (2A rating) protect the motor windings. They are located on the supply wires next to the gearmotors.

The starter activation relay 113.3747 or 90.3747-10 is located in the engine compartment on the right mudguard.

In the cabin

The windshield wiper relay (PC-514) is mounted under the panel on the left under the trim.

The ignition relay and the hazard warning and turn signal relays are installed on the front panel behind the instrument panel. The ignition relay (113.3747-10 or 90.3747-10) and the hazard warning and turn signal relays (23.3747 or 231.3747) have a bracket for direct mounting on the body.

The fog lamp fuse is located in the gear shift compartment, not far from the radio.

Revision procedure

The old resistor needs to be removed from one side. One wire is soldered to its free leg. The second core must be connected to the place where it was installed. The wire can be used one two-core or two single-core. The second end is connected to the central contact.

Next, the relay cover can be closed and the device installed in the system. Its functionality is checked.

Having looked at how to select and install a variable pause wiper relay, you can perform this procedure yourself.

What to do? Where to look?

If you can hear the sound of the motor-gearbox, then it is definitely working. If it works, but the brushes do not move, then there is a break somewhere in the rods or contact elements.

1. Most often, a break or loss of “contact” of the trapezoid occurs due to wear of the teeth on the drive shaft of the gearmotor. In other words, the motor works, but does not engage the windshield wiper trapezoid. There is nothing left to do but replace the drive part (by disassembling the gear motor and replacing the spline part). But, if you don’t find this part (rarely found on sale), then either look for a used motor or replace it with a new one.
2. The second cause of the malfunction may be a loose nut securing the trapezoid mechanism to the motor (tighten the nut). This malfunction can be immediately noticed if you look into the trapezoid compartment.

Perhaps these are the two most main reasons for this malfunction. True, there are cases when the rods fly off the crank or the splines on the wiper arm drive itself wear out (photo). All that remains is to either look for a spare part or change the trapezoid assembly.

If you haven’t found the answer to your question, check out other possible wiper malfunctions in the article: “”