SWITCH MECHANISM
Lada Kalina wagon Luta Logbook Replacing the ignition switch.
Fiddling with the keys The new mechanism is a separate module. It can be installed last and removed if necessary without disassembling the box. This is technologically advanced not only in production, but also in repair. Already at the concept stage developed by the VAZ team, a selector grill appeared in it, clearly repeating the gear shift pattern and setting the lever stroke when selecting gears. The mechanism includes a lock against accidental reverse gear, which is only accessible from neutral.
The characteristics of the mechanism were selected on the original simulation stand. The tester sits down on the seat and begins to go through the gears, while the automatic system imitates the shift pattern, forces and lever strokes implemented on a specific production car. You can also upload your own settings. Don't like an overly tight lever? A couple of taps on the keyboard and the effort is reduced. So, step by step, we selected the optimal settings for the “eighty-one”. The computer processed the data and produced parameters for constructing an accurate mathematical model, according to which those very tricky central plates were made.
Causes of breakdowns
There are three main causes of breakdowns:
- aggressive driving;
- torn boot;
- defective product;
The service life of the ball joint is from 10 to 150 thousand kilometers. This variation depends on many factors. And the most important of them is active and careless driving. Bumps, sharp turns, driving through potholes at high speed, etc. – all this very quickly “kills” the joints. The ball inside the body becomes loose and begins to play. Over time, the seat breaks and the finger simply comes out of the body, remaining on the steering knuckle.
Another problem is a torn boot. Rubber covers should protect this simple mechanism from moisture and sand. However, if even a small hole appears in it, water in rainy weather washes away the lubricant, and sand begins to scratch the hinge, accelerating its wear. A torn boot is one of the fastest ways to “kill” a ball joint.
Another “breakdown” is a defective spare part. The same car can have many hinges from many different brands. The quality of the products will differ, and therefore defects cannot be ruled out. However, you can immediately assess the condition of the hinge - if you grab your finger with your hand and try to turn it, the ball should move with very great force. Moreover, for some people nothing may come of it at all. But the unhindered movement of the ball indicates a low-quality product.
The brand and manufacturer have a big impact on the quality of the part. Chinese hinges do not last long, but there is a chance to extend their service life significantly. Simply remove the boot and add additional grease before installation. This manipulation must be done always and without exception.
As a rule, the lower ball is the first to fail, since it bears the heaviest load. Upper ball joints are rarely used since most modern cars have a MacPherson strut suspension design.
The independent multi-link suspension with two balls per wheel is preserved only on premium brands.
SYNCHRONIZER
Lada Kalina hatchback Sport Logbook Replacing handbrake cables on the Luca ZTD
The first samples were equipped with a three-cone synchronizer. But calculations have shown that double-cone, cheaper ones, can withstand the required torque with a margin (see pictures). Among other advantages, they made it possible to get rid of the problematic cone on the gears of the first and second gears, which is in contact with the synchronizer ring and requires high precision in manufacturing. The ring set now creates two friction surfaces for smooth and efficient synchronization. In addition, the German manufacturer (Ho¨rbiger) applies an additional coating to the intermediate ring, which reduces wear and ensures stable operating parameters, including the required coefficient of friction.
ROPE DRIVE
Replacing the ball joint Renault Logan
The single-rod gear shift drive was replaced by a cable. The unpleasant vibrations on the lever are gone, there is less play, and shifting is clearer.
Lightweight aluminum German gear forks are equipped with anti-wear shoes made of plastic. Previous parts were cast from steel, and to reduce wear, a bronze layer was applied to individual parts, which wore off over time and tinted the oil with golden powder.
VAZ-2181 is the first AVTOVAZ gearbox for which a computer calculation of all parts subject to loads was performed: crankcases, forks, levers, etc. Thus, the design was not only optimized, but also made more reliable.
1 — gear selector levers;
3 — selector grid;
5 - central three-dimensional plate.
Thank you for your help in preparing the material.
Mikhail Votinov, Vladimir Petunin,
Societies › VAZ: Repair and Modification › Blog › Changing the ball
gearbox lever support Kalina car 1.6 8kl
There is a joke that AvtoVAZ engineers will not die of their own destruction. More and more, when I take on repairs, this joke becomes that it remains to make our client a stronger former.
It started for our client with an iron dull knock in the engine area on bumps. At first I thought maybe there was something to do with the protection. However, that was not the case here. I drove into the pit. And there p?ts. The gearshift lever rod rests on the muffler. Oh how! It turns out the lever
The gearbox is held on a holder, which is rubber and in two places is very narrow for such loads. Pull the gearshift lever up and pull out the entire mechanism. There is a boot between the iron platform and the holder. Because my clip fell into two parts, it wasn’t particularly difficult for me to disassemble the entire assembly. Do not remove the boot from the wing, it will not come off. HOW?! I have no idea how it came out in his image. My shift took about 2 hours.
Let's start the replacement. We will need: A new ball joint race for the gearshift lever (570 rubles) A key for 10, 13. A Phillips screwdriver. Pliers with thin ends, or, in other words, tweezers. If, of course, a ratchet, it will make the work very easy. A supply of patience. No minors nearby, because the ramont of viburnum greatly develops the imagination in the direction of obscenity.
The car must be driven into a pit or onto a lift. Part of the work happens from below the car. You need to remove the muffler, but unfortunately not the whole one. For this purpose, we remove the clamp near the rear wheel. Be careful when the muffler is disassembled, a lot of rust and dirt spills out. Next, remove the muffler from the rubber bands and move it in any direction. Next, unscrew the two 13mm bolts that secure the cage to the rod. From below, what remains for our client to do. Alas, I still needed to tighten the handbrake. We remove the protection and tighten it. There's basically nothing complicated there. To pull up, you need two keys of 13. There is no photo below, I was very busy with the process.
Next we go to the salon. The bestseller begins with this question. I don’t know how, but VAZ engineers manage to make everything possible very awkward for analysis.
Ball joint: design, diagnosis and replacement
Alexander Rastorguev [razborkazapzap]
04.09.2019,
The ball joint is the most important element in a car's suspension. A lot depends on it: safety, comfort, stability of the suspension, suspension and tire life. The main task of the ball joint is to ensure the movement of the wheel in the horizontal plane, and there should be no movement in the vertical plane. The design of ball joints, namely the hinge pin, is used in steering tips, as well as on camber arms.
Until a certain time, and in some cars even until 2003 (Hello, GAZ -3110), kingpins were installed, which ensured comfort and incredible reliability, as well as resistance to overloads. But there are two drawbacks:
- The need for constant injection of the pins, although on the Volga it takes no more than 20 minutes.
- Ensuring wheel rotation strictly along one axis, which significantly affects the comfort of movement at high speed.
When designing the ball joint, they took into account the fact that during operation it would be subject to shock loads, although they did not make it particularly durable. Thus, the ball joint has become a consumable spare part, the service life of which rarely exceeds 100,000 km, and, moreover, its price is low. Initially, ball joints were removable, today more and more people are resorting to large-unit replacement, so the lever and support can be one piece.
About the ball joint design
The classic design of a ball joint includes a body with holes for fasteners, a ball pin with a spring, pressed with a plate to prevent the pin from being torn out, and a boot on top of the pin. To prevent the hinge from wearing out in the first days, lubricant was placed inside (a composition similar to lubricant for CV joints). Each car manufacturer recommends that every maintenance check the ball joint for the integrity of the boot, and change the lubricant on occasion. By the way, balls used to have an oiler (like on Moskvich-412/2140). Among other things, if there was any play in the finger, it was possible to tighten the hinge and continue driving.
Later, an era of savings came, which also affected the design of the ball joint. Now, instead of a spring, plastic is used, but due to its low wear resistance, it was replaced with nylon. Now the ball joints of modern cars are maintenance-free.
Number of ball joints per suspension
The number of ball joints is determined by the type of suspension: if it is a double wishbone (VAZ 2101-07, Moskvich-412/2140), then there are 4 ball joints, one for each lever. MacPherson of the simplest design has two supports, one per lever. On aluminum suspensions of VAG cars, there can be up to 10 ball suspensions per axle.
About the method of attaching the ball joint
Today, the classification of a ball joint is divided only by the method of its fastening: using bolts and nuts, or an integrated method, where the support will either have to be pressed out or it will be impossible to replace it. There is an opinion that the integration of ball joints is a purely marketing ploy, but the point is a technical component. The point of this “control” is to reduce the weight of the suspension. But there is a compromise here: the support is held on to the lever using a locking ring.
Fasteners to the axle (steering knuckle)
There are two types of fastening to the knuckle: there is a thread on the pin, which is tightened with a nut, or the pin is clamped with a bolt on the trunnion, tightening the cage. To dismantle and install the support, you need to wedge the slot on the trunnion. For example, on the aluminum suspension of the Audi A6C7, two ball joints are connected in the upper part of the steering knuckle, which are clamped in the axle cage with a single bolt. The funny thing is that it is often impossible to remove the ball joints: a press, neither heating with a torch, nor sudden cooling helps.
About the causes and consequences of ball joint malfunctions
The first reason is the high shock load on the suspension, especially when driving through potholes and bumps at high speed. Despite the fact that there is no play in the new ball, a finger sharply pressing on the spring or nylon plate squeezes them, causing play to form.
The second reason is lack of lubrication. When working with cheap analogues, it often turned out that there was no lubrication under the anthers.
The third reason is a damaged boot. Dirt and water enter through it, washing away the lubricant.
How to Diagnose a Ball Joint Failure
Everything is simple here: while driving, as well as when turning the wheels, a dull knock will be heard. You can check the ball manually if you have a pry bar: you need to rest it between the lever and the pin and apply pressure. The backlash will be immediately detected. In advanced cases, it is enough to pull the lever with your hand to feel the play.
How difficult is it to change ball joints?
It all depends on the design. On double-wishbone suspensions, as well as classic MacPherson struts, where the ball joints are clamped with a nut to the axle, replacing the ball joint is not difficult. The main thing to remember is that before you begin dismantling the ball, you need to remove the nut from the ball pin while the support is under load. Otherwise, the nut will turn along with the pin. If the ball is clamped with a bolt on the trunnion, then the seat must be loosened by first tearing off the pin nut. If the ball joint is secured with a retaining ring, then difficulties arise here. To replace it, you will have to remove the lever, and then work hard to remove the stopper, after which the ball is knocked out with a strong blow of a hammer. To install a new ball, you need a press to press the part through the holder.
