Reasons why the stove on a VAZ 2110 does not heat up, troubleshooting methods

Every responsible driver, before the onset of cold weather, carries out preventive inspections and, if necessary, repairs the vehicle’s heating system. Problems with the heater in winter negatively affect not only the comfort of passengers and the driver inside the vehicle, but also negatively affect safety while driving.

Problems with the stove occur especially often in domestically produced cars. The new models of the VAZ concern are no exception. In this article we will look at how to diagnose and eliminate the causes of poor functioning of the stove on a VAZ-2110.

Heater control panel for VAZ-2110 car

Possible faults

In any case, every motorist wants to drive in a warm and heated interior, especially in the winter season. So, before disassembling or replacing the stove on a VAZ 2110, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic information about malfunctions, as well as options for eliminating these breakdowns.

If the heater on a VAZ 2110 does not heat well or it blows cold air, this may be due to several malfunctions:

the driver no longer has the ability to independently adjust the heater;
the hot air flow does not blow well or only cold air blows, while clicks are heard in the engine compartment;
there is a coolant leak in the operation of the system, namely the radiator;
the temperature sensor has failed, it refuses to work, we are talking about a controller installed on the ceiling;
There has been a malfunction in the operation of the control unit.

Temperature is not adjustable

If the driver cannot adjust the temperature regime, there may be two reasons for this:

the control unit has failed or is not functioning correctly;
The damper itself has failed (the author of the video is Fire Screen – Live).

In this case, the first thing to do if the VAZ 2110 stove does not work is to diagnose the temperature sensor. As we said above, this element is located on the ceiling of the car, next to the ceiling lamp. In order to correctly diagnose this controller with your own hands, you need to scroll it several times from the extreme position of the cold air flow to the extreme hot one. In the same way, you can check the temperature of the air flow based on your feelings.

If, when setting the regulator to the extreme heating position, a hot air flow begins to flow from the dampers, this indicates that the device is fully operational. If, when installed in this position, the air flow barely flows or it begins to heat up only in the extreme “hot” position, this indicates the need to replace the controller.

Damper repair or replacement

In some cases, it happens that the VAZ 2110 stove stops working due to a broken damper. As a rule, the damper simply freezes in such cases. This element stops turning as a result of the fact that the device’s clamps have oxidized because they have not been serviced for a long time. Accordingly, if the problem lies in the damper, it can be solved independently.

On domestic “tens”, you can only get to the damper from the engine compartment. First you need to dismantle the deflectors, after which you need to bend the antennae. After these steps, you can reach the flap by sliding it with your hand. If during disassembly you notice that the heater damper of the VAZ 2110 moves without problems, this indicates that the reason for the system’s inoperability is completely different.

However, in order not to subsequently encounter the problem of a poorly functioning damper, it is necessary to replace it with an aluminum one. As practice shows, the fastening itself often fails on plastic dampers, so using the aluminum option is the most optimal.

Location of the stove damper

As a result of such minor modifications to the system, the heater will be able to better retain hot air. Overall, the heating system will function much better. This is because thanks to this modification, deformations that are relevant for plastic dampers will not appear in the system.

Damper micromotor

Often, owners of "ten" cars are faced with the inoperability of the heating system in their cars as a result of the failure of the micromotor. The device itself is located in the engine compartment, next to the windshield. To get to the damper micromotor, it is necessary to remove the frill, the insulating element. If the lever moves when the driver starts the heater in heating mode, this indicates that it is working properly.

However, a problem with the device’s performance may occur when the gears wear out and, accordingly, begin to slip. In this case, the micromotor is replaced on the VAZ 2110. In order not to change the motor, you can simply manually open the damper itself - nothing bad will happen from this. Only the air flow will always enter the car interior, and whether it will be warm or hot depends on the heater settings in the cabin itself. So it is important to carry out such actions as a temporary measure (video author - In Sandro's garage).

It also happens that the problem lies in the operation of the stove resistor. The thermal fuse in the “tens” heating system is located next to the resistor coil of the unit. If the resistor is heated too high - 117 degrees - the internal panel of the device will melt and rupture. As practice shows, this element can also burn out due to increasing current strength, when the ventilation device cannot move. If the fan does not really start working, this can cause the load on the safety device to increase to 17 amperes, which is quite a lot for a car's on-board network.

In fact, replacing the resistor does not happen so often, since in principle this malfunction is rare; usually it is the thermal fuse that blows. By the way, such devices are installed on many household appliances.

Diagnostics of the fuse itself is carried out as follows:

You need to short-circuit the resistor with a “bridge” using a piece of wire.
After short-circuiting, turn on the stove itself. If the heater works normally in all modes, then the problem lies in the fuse.
Buy a new 15 amp 117 degree fuse and solder it in place of the old one. When soldering, the device must not be overheated, since if the soldering temperature exceeds 117 degrees, this will lead to its failure. Therefore, the soldering procedure is carried out with a heat sink.

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Leaking radiator

Heating system radiator

In practice, it often happens that on domestically produced cars the heating device begins to function poorly due to a leak. We are talking specifically about a leak in the system radiator. As a rule, the driver learns about this as a result of a lack of coolant in the expansion tank located in the engine compartment. In this case, the problem can be solved for some time by adding consumables to the system, but over time the stove will again blow cold air. For what reasons does this happen?

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to diagnosing the radiator device itself. You need to check the integrity of the radiator. It should be noted that this task is one of the most difficult of those related to the diagnosis of a heating unit. After all, in order to get to the radiator, you first need to remove the stove.

If during diagnostics you notice that the radiator device has cracks on its body through which antifreeze escapes, then it is advisable to replace it. As practice shows, soldering the case usually does not give the desired results. In most cases, it helps for a short time, but the process of dismantling and installing the stove itself is quite tedious for the motorist.

Insulation

Sometimes it happens that the hot air flow does not flow well to the side windows and to the feet, although the heating system itself is working properly. In this case, the side windows may become foggy. Even when replacing the corrugation, this does not help solve the problem. In order to get rid of such a malfunction, you do not need to repair the control unit of the VAZ 2110 stove or look for a leak - you just need to get rid of all the cracks. Seal the center console with sealant or a special “anti-creak”; in some places you can use construction foam.

We identify the cause of the breakdown

First, you need to figure out the reason why the stove fan is not working. There may be several of them.

A faulty fuse is the most common, simple and most common reason that the motor does not turn. On the one hand, replacing a fuse is not a big and difficult problem, which can be easily handled even by a beginner. But on the other hand, it will be necessary to find the reason why the fuse has become unusable. And to do this, you will need to examine the electrical circuit that ensures the normal operation of the heating system for the presence of a short circuit. Since we are talking about fuses, it would be useful to know that the operation of the stove on the VAZ-2110 depends on fuse F7 with a current strength of 30 amperes. Also, the operation of this fuse determines the illumination of the glove compartment, the functioning of the cigarette lighter, the electric motor from the headlight washer and the heated rear window. If a short circuit is not found in the electrical circuit of the heating system, then the cause will need to be looked for throughout the wiring.
Problems with the contacts that are located inside the mounting block are a common reason for the VAZ heater motor not working. To identify this problem, you can move the block with the attached harnesses while the car is running. If the VAZ-2110 heater fan starts working, then it is necessary to remove the block and clean the contacts.

A problem with the contacts inside the mounting block is a common reason for a non-working fan.

A flooded relay may also be one of the reasons why the heater fan does not work. Diagnosing this problem is very simple: the fan will turn on only after the car has warmed up well. In this case, you will need to replace the relay, which is hidden behind the dashboard.
The heater electric motor can only operate when the third speed is activated. This situation is explained by the nature of the current supply to the fan: at speeds 1 and 2 this process is implemented through a resistor, and at speed 3 - directly. Consequently, if the heating does not work at the first two speeds, then the reason lies precisely in the resistor, which must be replaced.
The malfunction of the switch can be identified as follows: after removing the center console, start the car, take a large 12-volt light bulb with soldered wires, connect the negative wire from it to the body and touch the second wire to contacts 1, 2 and 3 on the additional resistor. When the light comes on, it indicates that the switch is working properly. But if the light bulb does not light up, then you will need to connect the wire from the light bulb to the positive terminal on the switch. If there is no light on the light bulb, you can talk about an open circuit or a faulty fuse.

A broken fan motor could also be the cause.

A faulty fan motor is the final cause that can result in a fan not working. Here we can consider three main reasons, the elimination of which may require replacing the motor, cleaning the contacts and replacing the brushes.

Checking the temperature sensor in the car shutter

To make sure that the air temperature sensor on the ceiling is working properly, you should take it and pass a current of 1.3 V through the plus and minus terminals. When you set the knobs that control the automatic control system of the stove to maximum and minimum values in certain positions, the fan does not spin in this case. If the automatic control system is working, then deactivate the shutter air sensor; in this situation, the fan power mode stops working.

Checking the operation of the automatic control system

To diagnose this system, you need to have a multimeter so you can measure the current on the pink and brown wires.
The voltage can have different values, it depends on which controller is built into the car. For example, in older cars - before 2002 - heater control controllers 1303.3854 were installed, in this case the voltage at the minimum position changes in about 14 seconds, and at the maximum value it is supplied stably. Therefore, if the voltage of the ACS unit at the output has a constant value, it is faulty. On newer cars since 2003, the built-in unit is 1323.3854, and the stove is 2111-8101012.

When faults are found in the controller, the dampers may be faulty. To determine other reasons for the breakdown of the car's 2110-12 heater, you will most likely need to disassemble the heater.

Diagnostics of heater system shutters VAZ 21I0

The VAZ 2110 stove has two shutters.
Through one, cold air is absorbed, and through the other, hot air is supplied. If the wire mechanism malfunctions, you may encounter the following disadvantages:

The stove doesn't heat well
There is no hot air flow at all,
high air supply temperature,
temperature is not regulated.

Shutters can have various types of breakdowns:

It happens that the damper gets stuck or malfunctions, and the micromotor gearbox can also fail.
Also, the damper may stop functioning due to rust, because there are two types of dampers.

There are old and modern samples of shutters,

old ones - made of plastic and sealed with foam rubber,
and modern ones are made of metal with a rubber seal.

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If you do not hear the damper operating, then try moving it after removing the deflector.

The disadvantage of metal dampers is that breakdowns often occur due to rust, while plastic ones tend to deform due to the supply of hot air.

In the case where the shutters do not move at all, diagnose the microdetector.

Checking the micro-reducer of the stove shutter

To check the shutter drive, have an ohmmeter with you.
In old-style automatic control system controllers, the resistance at the minimum value of blue current should be from 850 to 1250 Ohms, in modern ones - 3.4-5.6 kOhms. If you want to check, you need to set the air supply temperature mark to the minimum value and hold for about 20 seconds. Disconnect the controller connector and, with the motor running, measure the difference in resistance in contacts XI.4 and XI.1. At the maximum temperature value in old controllers, the multimeter shows a resistance of 3.1 to 5 kOhm, in new ones - 1.3-1.5 kOhm. If the resistance does not change the readings or is absent altogether, this will indicate a malfunction of the micro-reducer shaft location sensor, which is associated with erasing the tracks, or a malfunction of the automatic control system itself, as a result of which no current flows to the micro-reducer.

In order to replace the micro-reducer you need to disassemble the stove.

Checking the resistance resistor

The stove resistor has two spirals with different resistances, the first has 0.24 Ohms, the second has 0.81 Ohms.
If these two spirals are activated simultaneously, then the electric motor of the stove operates in the first temperature mode, and if only on the first spiral, the second speed operates. If the electric motor is turned on without the help of a resistor, then the fan rotor operates in the third position - the most powerful.

The reason for the malfunction of the stove fan (operation in one mode)

You can find out why the stove in the VAZ 21I0 works only in the third position or exclusively in the first and second without disassembling. If such a problem occurs, then find the position of the resistance resistor. In the first and second modes, the fan operates using a resistor, and in the third - directly. Hence the answer that the cause could be either a burnt resistor, or the tracks in the speed switch were erased, as well as on the temperature controller.

temperature sensor

You can often encounter the following problem: it is not possible to properly regulate the temperature in the cabin. In most cases, the problem is a failure of the control unit and an incorrectly set damper. This is not a difficult problem at all, and it can be solved quickly. First you need to check the serviceability of the temperature sensor. To do this, move the heater knob to one side, and after a while - to the other. The temperature of the air entering the cabin should change. If this happens, the problem is not in the controller. If the temperature sensor does not work, you can temporarily turn on the stove without it, then the temperature in the cabin will be the same as that set on the electronic unit.

Useful tips

Finally, here are a few tips that may help extend the life of your car's interior heater.

To prevent a malfunction from catching you by surprise, check the functionality of the stove even in warm weather when it is not in use.
Pay attention to the functionality of the cigarette lighter and the glove box light. If they malfunction, check the stove as well.
Monitor the temperature of the coolant in the system. Remember that its overheating may indicate a non-working thermostat, and this can lead not only to problems with heating the interior, but also to failure of the entire engine.
Do not fill the system with low-quality coolant. This will sooner or later lead to the formation of scale and obstruction of the heater radiator.
Change the cabin filter along with the oil and fuel filters according to the routine maintenance schedule.

Source

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

One of the main problems of the VAZ-2110 heater is leakage and poor-quality assembly, low quality of air duct elements.

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts ; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

To eliminate this drawback, unfortunately, you will have to spend more than one hour, since it is impossible to get to the air ducts without dismantling the front panel.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Refinement of the plastic block

If the stove blows weakly into your feet, then the reason is the plastic heater control unit of the VAZ-2110. Before starting repairs, it is recommended to make sure that the stove is in working order. Then you will need:

dismantle and disassemble the torpedo;
seal the cracks on the panel;
install a new corrugation;
seal the panel.

During the factory assembly of the car, the damper is poorly pressed against the dashboard, which contributes to the loss of hot air in the instrument panel. This problem can be solved by removing the damper and the standard seal. We treat the cracks and the valve with madeleine. The factory sponge is replaced with Bitoplast-10. To prevent the passenger's feet from freezing, the air ducts are being modernized.

Another heat loss problem is related to cracks near the driver's seat. They can be blown out with foam. If necessary, replace the old-style air distributor. We place a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm in each hole. If the unit works correctly, then the heating scheme is as follows: from one corrugation warm air flows to the driver’s feet, and from 2 and 3 to the passengers’ feet. There should be no holes between the pipes. If you completely remove the air ducts, hot air will flow into the cabin.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 stove and their elimination

VAZ-2110 owners are faced with the problem of a non-working or malfunctioning stove. The malfunction boils down to the fact that the air does not heat up, the heater supplies hot air, or there is uneven heating - cold air goes to the windshield, but well-heated air goes to the foot area.

Why does the stove not heat well?

These symptoms occur due to a malfunction in the stove control system:

Damage to the ACS controller.
Malfunction of the micromotor gearbox.
Damper deformed or jammed.
Temperature sensor malfunction.

To identify the problem, first determine in which branch of the control system the malfunction occurred. To do this, start the engine, turn on the heater fan at maximum speed, and then turn the temperature control knob from “Min” to “Max” and listen to whether the noise changes from the fan operation. If the “controller-gearbox” branch is working properly, then the dampers move, and by changing the direction of air flow, the noise from the stove operation changes in tone.

But if the sound of operation does not change, the reason lies in the controller, gearbox or dampers.

To check the controller, replace it with a known good one and check whether the operation of the stove has changed. The next thing to check is the gear motor. The difficulty of checking is that it is located under the “jabot” on the engine side, and it is difficult to get to the gearbox. This control branch may not work due to jammed dampers.

To check the “controller-temperature sensor” branch, disconnect the wires from the sensor. Without its readings, the controller controls the damper based on the temperature set by the driver. If the problem with the operation of the stove lay in the temperature sensor, then after it is turned off, the normal functioning of the heating system will be restored, with the only difference that the automatic fan mode will stop working and the ACS will not be able to adjust the temperature of the air flow.

More often, problems arise with the controller and gearmotor. These units can be repaired, but since their price is low, it is easier to replace them with new ones.

Climate control operating modes

Before using the unit, you must calibrate the climate control by pressing the A/C button and, without releasing it, turn on the ignition. As soon as three horizontally oriented bars appear on the display, the button can be released. Calibration will be performed automatically, and its duration is about 5 – 10 seconds. If, during operation of the climate control, it is discovered that the position of the air damper does not correlate well with the entered value, it is necessary to recalibrate using the same algorithm. As already noted, climate control operates in three modes: automatic, manual and “Semi-automatic” mode.

When manual mode is selected (which will be indicated by a non-lit LED located above the AUTO button), the damper is controlled manually using the corresponding regulator. On the display, the left scale in the form of stripes is responsible for displaying the position of the damper. The rotation speed of the furnace fan is controlled by pressing the regulator handle and then rotating in the desired direction (clockwise - increase the speed, counterclockwise - decrease). After a five-second time interval has passed, the fan speed control mode is switched off, and the regulator returns to the damper climate system control mode.

To switch the QC operation to automatic mode, just press the AUTO button. At the same time, the corresponding LED lights up, and with the adjustment handle you can set the temperature required for a comfortable stay in the car. In the future, the VAZ-2110 climate control unit will independently control the operation of the air conditioner and heater to ensure the required temperature conditions. Semi-automatic mode is activated as soon as the user tries to change the fan speed using the appropriate control. In this case, the climate control damper will still be controlled automatically, unlike the furnace fan mode. To switch to automatic operating mode, press the AUTO button twice quickly.

The rightmost key with the inscription INJ is responsible for turning on the mode of monitoring and indicating the voltage of the vehicle's electrical network, the operating temperature of the power unit and displaying ECM error codes (if there are problems with the engine). The display of each of the listed parameters is selected by successively pressing the key. For the button to work, it is necessary to connect the VAZ-2110 diagnostic circuit to the climate control control unit.

The second button from the right is responsible for turning on the display on the air temperature measured by the internal sensor. The key located in the middle turns on the mode for displaying the air temperature outside the car. Both of these keys require the installation of appropriate sensors and their connection to the control unit. The leftmost A/C button is the air conditioning on/off switch (if equipped in the car). Maintaining the set temperature when the air conditioner is turned on is carried out in the same way - by controlling the damper that regulates the supply of warm and cooled air.

As befits an air conditioning system, the main parameters of its operation (including the temperature inside the car, the rotation speed of the furnace fan, the operating mode of the electronic control unit) are stored in the internal memory of the controller when the ignition is turned off or the on-board power supply is completely de-energized. When you turn on the ignition, the air conditioning system turns on with some delay so as not to interfere with starting the engine. After this artificial delay, the climate control begins to function in accordance with the saved user preferences that were working at the time the ignition was turned off.

Common stove malfunctions and options for eliminating them

Owners of tens often encounter a problem when the heater in the vehicle does not heat well or has stopped working. With the onset of cold weather, you have to sort out the car’s heating system and look for the causes of malfunctions.

Finding the original source of the problem is not always very easy. Sometimes, in order to find and fix a problem, you have to check almost all parts of the vehicle’s heating system.

Parts of the heater of the VAZ-2110 car

To make troubleshooting easier, we will consider the main indicators of improper functioning of the stove, possible sources of malfunctions in each specific case and options for eliminating them.

Supplying a weak air flow into the car interior

Owners of VAZ-2110 cars are often faced with a situation where both warm and cold air is supplied to the cabin, but under very low pressure. Accordingly, heating or ventilation of the interior requires significantly more time than during normal operation of the heating system. If the heater does not blow well, the cause of this malfunction may be a clogged heater radiator or vehicle cabin filter.

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First, you need to check the condition of the cabin filter of the car. In dozens, it is most often located behind the glove compartment on the passenger side. If it is heavily polluted, then air flows through it poorly and provokes problems with the interior heating system. Contamination of a car's cabin filter can be eliminated in two ways. The first is high-quality cleaning of the filter and installing it in its original seat. However, this method is less effective. The problem will reoccur a few weeks later. A more correct solution is to replace the cabin filter with a new product. Moreover, the filter must be changed every fifteen thousand kilometers or twice a year.

Cabin filter of the VAZ-2110 car, requiring replacement

If after replacing the cabin filter the problem does not disappear, then you need to check the condition of the heater radiator. This is more difficult to do, since you will have to disassemble almost the entire heater from the engine compartment side. Poor flow of coolant in the radiator can be caused by both small particles of debris that can get into it, and the formation of scale inside the product. Antifreeze leakage through holes in the radiator may also be the reason for poor operation of the stove.

If the radiator is clogged with debris or scale, the problem can be eliminated by washing the product with special means. If there is a coolant leak, experts advise immediately replacing the radiator with a new part. Fixing the problem by soldering the radiator will help solve the problem for a very short period of time, after which the antifreeze will leak out again and you will have to re-disassemble almost half of the engine compartment to install a new part. It is also necessary to immediately check the condition of the hoses and pipes that go to the heater radiator and, if necessary, replace them.

The VAZ-2110 stove blows cold air

Often, owners of domestic cars are faced with a situation where only cold air enters the cabin through the heater deflectors, regardless of the temperature setting. In most cases, the heater blows cold air after replacing or adding coolant. The cause of this malfunction is air entering the heating system of the vehicle.

If the coolant is replaced incorrectly, an air lock forms in the radiator pipes and hoses, which must be eliminated. This is not difficult to do. It is necessary to drive the car onto a hill or overpass, so that its front end is as high as possible. After this, you need to let the car idle for several minutes, periodically you need to gas it. In this way, the air lock can be expelled from the system.

Then you need to check the antifreeze level and, if necessary, add it to the required level in the expansion tank. Often, after carrying out such actions, the stove begins to work properly.

The temperature in the VAZ-2110 cabin is not regulated

Sometimes there are situations when the heater cannot be adjusted. Regardless of the position of the temperature regulator on the control panel, the stove either blows cold air or produces only a hot stream. Such discomfort may be caused by a malfunctioning temperature sensor or a failure of the heater damper.

You can check the operation of the sensor by turning the temperature regulator several times to the extreme maximum position. If the situation has not changed, then it is necessary to replace the sensor, which is located on the ceiling of the car, next to the ceiling light.

Temperature sensor in the passenger compartment of a VAZ-2110 car

Sometimes the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat up or only works at maximum speed due to a failure of the heater damper. In this case, it is necessary to remove the deflectors from the engine compartment, bend the fastening antennae and get to the valve. Often the damper gets stuck in one position, and it does not respond to the regulator inside the cabin. Then you need to try to move the stuck part. If it moves without effort, then the problem must be looked elsewhere.

The cause of the malfunction may be deformation of the damper due to high temperatures. Then it is necessary to replace the plastic valve that the car is equipped with from the factory with a more reliable aluminum part.

The heater damper micro-reducer may also be the culprit of the malfunction. If it fails, it will be impossible to adjust the temperature in the cabin. You can check this by removing the windshield trim and frill from the engine compartment. After this, it is necessary to test the movement of the damper lever when switching heater modes in the cabin. If the damper lever moves, then the micro-gearbox is working. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

If the VAZ-2110 stove does not work in any mode other than the maximum one, then the cause of the breakdown may be a failure of the heater resistor. The resistor may fail due to overvoltage in the network. The resistor is located on the right side of the stove. To replace it or diagnose it, it is necessary to dismantle the windshield cover and the vacuum booster. After this, using an ohmmeter, the resistance on the coils, which are responsible for converting the current into the required voltage for the correct operation of the heating system, is checked. If the indicators differ from the norm, then it is necessary to replace the product with a new resistor.

And also the problem may be in the disconnection of the fuse, which is located on the resistor board. In this case, you can eliminate the malfunction by soldering, however, you must first find the cause of the blown fuse. It may be in oxidized contacts or poor wiring insulation. Initially, you need to diagnose all elements of the heater's electrical circuit using a tester, find the weak link and eliminate the malfunction. Poor operation of the heater's electrical components can cause a short circuit or fire.

The VAZ-2110 stove does not work

If the stove on a VAZ-2110 has completely stopped working, this may indicate a failure of one of the elements of the heating system. In this case, to determine the cause of the malfunction, you will have to check the functioning of absolutely all parts of the heating system. This is a labor-intensive task and requires the performer to have certain knowledge of electronics. It is also necessary to understand the technology of functioning of the car’s heating system.

Diagram of the automatic heater control system: 1 – fan electric motor; 2 – additional resistor; 3 – controller; 4 – mounting block; 5 – ignition switch; 6 – cabin air temperature sensor; 7 – recirculation switch; 8 – recirculation valve; 9 – micromotor gearbox for heater damper drive; A – to the instrument lighting switch; B – to power supplies

Most often, the VAZ-2110 stove does not work due to a fan failure. It can be easily replaced with a new product. In second place is the thermostat, which is also replaced in case of malfunction.

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Failure of a vehicle's heater in most cases results in the need for major repairs. In this case, you need to calculate the possible costs of purchasing new parts and compare them with the price of a new stove. Experts recommend that if the stove fails completely, it should be completely replaced. Very often, the VAZ-2110 is equipped with stoves from the VAZ-2112 that are more advanced in design features and technical characteristics.

Repair recommendations

So, we have dealt with the causes of malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 stove, now let’s move on directly to troubleshooting the problems.

Malfunction 1.

Problems with temperature control are one of the most common causes of malfunction. In most cases, this is caused by a failure of the control unit or damper.

How to proceed in this case?

Check the functionality of the temperature sensor (it is located on the ceiling, near the interior lamp).

It is because of its malfunction that the required command may not reach the damper.

Diagnosing a sensor malfunction is simple - move the control knob from one extreme position to another. In this case, it is necessary to monitor whether the temperature of the outgoing air changes.

There can be two options here - the temperature does not change at all, or the air begins to warm up only when the handle is in the extreme (maximum) position.

In the first case, repairing the VAZ 2110 stove by replacing the sensor alone will not cost you - you need to look for another reason.

In the second case, we can confidently talk about the failure of the controller itself.

Malfunction 2.

Failure of the gear motor.

If, when the heating is turned on, only cold air enters the cabin, then there are obvious problems with the stove.

In 9 out of 10 cases, the cause of such a malfunction is the failure of the gearmotor. Typically, replacing this element allows the system to return to full functionality.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

Remove the windshield wipers;
Remove the frill (to do this, you need to unscrew three screws);
Disconnect the wires from the gearmotor;
Remove the old one, install and connect the new device.

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For greater convenience, it is better to hire a partner as an assistant - he will adjust the air from the cabin.

The procedure for removing the gearmotor of the VAZ 2110 stove.

Malfunction 3.

Heater failure.

Sometimes the cause of a malfunction of the VAZ 2110 stove can be the heater itself. To verify this (or refute the assumption), it is necessary to dismantle the main deflector.

This is easy to do - just bend the special fasteners and move the flap (you can crawl up to it from the side of the engine compartment).

If the radiator breaks down and needs to be replaced, you will have to disassemble the entire stove (if you wish, you can do this work yourself).

Malfunction 4.

Poor quality of air heating by the stove.

If you are not satisfied with the VAZ 2110 stove in terms of the speed and quality of air heating, then you should take a few simple steps:

firstly
, do not be greedy with money to buy a high-quality aluminum damper (it’s better to throw away the old “piece of plastic” right away). Such a replacement eliminates the curvature of the damper when switching and, accordingly, helps conserve heat;

secondly
, install a new heater (the factory type is not of high quality). The most preferable option is to purchase heaters from a VAZ-2112-1 or 2112-2. But there are some disadvantages here too. The first type does not have a cleaning filter, and the second type does not have a recirculation function. Each of the filters described above can easily “go away” 15 thousand kilometers;
thirdly
, it wouldn’t hurt to spend money on installing pre-start heaters, or many people call such a device an antifreeze heater. Their task is to preheat the interior and engine.

Malfunction 5.

Insufficient airflow in the area of the side windows and feet.

According to the complaints of many car enthusiasts, the VAZ 2110 stove does not warm up the legs and windows enough. In such a situation, the only way out is to improve the air channels inside the car.

You must act in the following sequence:

1. Make sure the stove is working. Only after this does it make sense to modernize the system.
2. Dismantle the panels completely and disassemble them into small components.

3. If there are cracks (slots) in the panel, seal them or install a new hose. But in most cases, the first option is quite sufficient.

4. Inspect the top and bottom of the panel carefully. If there are cracks, they must be carefully treated with anti-creak. Try to do everything efficiently, because you won’t have time to return to this work later. The fastening points and holes must also be carefully taped.
5. Remove the damper along with the factory seal. Now carefully glue the valve using modelin and process the existing gaps (including on the driver’s side).
6. Inspect the air ducts that go to the feet. If there are cracks, seal them.
7. Remove the factory air distributor, insert corrugated tubes into the holes and seal everything with foam for security. Particular attention must be paid to the pipe - it must have a thickness of at least four centimeters in diameter.

8. As a result, you get three tubes, one of which goes back to the passengers, and the other two go to the driver and front passenger. All that remains is to put everything back in place.

Heating system design

Design of the heating system "tens"

If the stove cannot turn on, it begins to blow heat poorly or has stopped producing heating altogether, you need to take a very serious approach to solving the problem. After all, operating a vehicle in the winter without a heater is the most inconvenient and uncomfortable option for a motorist. Therefore, before you learn how to remove and disassemble hoses on new and old devices and how to properly adjust the system, let's understand the device.

On domestically produced vehicles, including the VAZ 2110, the heating system has certain differences. First you need to take into account that the heating system operates separately. In particular, it is represented specifically by the heater. The heater is the stove itself.

The stove will be filled inside with a hot air flow, which enters the vehicle interior through special heat distributors - pipes. The pipes themselves are led to the car's interior, where warm air flows directly from the front center console to the driver and passenger (face and legs), as well as to the windows.

Thanks to window blowing, the driver can get rid of the problem of freezing or fogging. The entire system is controlled using a special regulation and control unit, which regulates the air flow and temperature conditions. That is, in essence, this block is an air flow distributor. Unlike other domestically produced car models, the stove on the “ten” has a fundamental difference - it is equipped with an evaporator (the author of the video is Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

It doesn't hurt to check the filter too.

The cabin filter can also cause the heater to not operate efficiently. Some car owners do not pay attention to this element of the ventilation system for years, although even for their own sake they must replace it along with other consumables.

A clogged cabin filter creates serious resistance to air intake, as a result of which the fan may not cope with its task. In this case, both cold and hot air will flow into the cabin in a weak flow.

Poor heating at idle

If you suddenly experience a flow of cold air while the engine is warm and the heater is on, there are probably problems with the thermostat or pump. The cause of this phenomenon may be a damaged cylinder head gasket. A broken gasket gives the effect of an airy state. But this is not the worst situation, it is much worse if the reason why the stove does not heat well is a non-working pump.

A failed pump will not circulate coolant, causing the engine to overheat. So if the heater on your car begins to heat worse, you need to check the performance of the pump. A faulty heater valve also affects the flow of warm air into the car interior. If it stops working normally, the inlet hose will be hot and the outlet hose will be cold.

Adjusting the automatic control system

To check the functionality of the device, you should take a mercury thermometer and place it near the temperature sensor. After this, you need to activate the stove controller and set the fan control knob to position “A”. The automatic control system should be carefully adjusted only if after 15–20 minutes the temperature is more than two degrees below the data from the sensor.

In order for the self-propelled gun to work better, you will have to pull it out and then turn the knob located on the left side of the controller several times. You can increase the temperature by turning the knob clockwise, and decrease it by turning it counterclockwise.

After all the manipulations carried out, you will need to check the functionality of the heating device again and, if necessary, repeat it all over again.

Blowing cold air - inspection of the heater radiator and cooling system

The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove also does not have high heat transfer, and besides, it is quite difficult to get to it. However, it may be associated with a weak interior heating temperature:

Heater radiator is clogged. If antifreeze does not get into it when the cooling system is in full working order, then it will not heat. Diagnosing a clogged stove is difficult, but it is possible. With the engine fully warmed up and the heater on, we feel the temperature of the radiator inlet and outlet pipes by touch. If the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold, the heater radiator is clogged. Few people clean it; the public prefers to buy a new one. The market will allow you to choose several models of aluminum radiators and one or two copper ones at our discretion.
The problem of radiator obstruction is solved either by flushing using special liquids, or by replacing the element.
Cabin filter. If the cabin filter is clogged, there is no need to talk about air supply to the cabin. We take out the filter, check its condition and change it if necessary. In winter you can do without it. Diagnostics is simple - if the temperature in the cabin returns to normal when the filter is removed, that is the problem.
It wouldn't hurt to check the cabin filter as well.
Thermostat. Often there is a problem with the thermostat. Its valve refuses to allow antifreeze to flow into the heater circuit, so the radiator is left without liquid. The only cure is to replace the thermostat.
Checking the thermostat.
Heater radiator leak. A clear symptom of a malfunction is antifreeze in the cabin and a drop in the level in the expansion tank. Only replacing the heater radiator will help.
If the radiator leaks, you will have to dismantle it and replace it with a new one.
Air lock . One of the most common problems with the cooling system and heater is an air lock. As a result, the circulation of antifreeze is disrupted and the stove does not warm up completely or does not heat up at all. The air plug is removed by releasing some of the liquid along with air from the very top of the engine - from the throttle block fitting while the engine is running. After removing the plug, the stove should restore functionality.

The problems associated with stove control are described above. But the stove may not work or not function efficiently enough for other reasons:

the appearance of an air lock in the heater radiator;
radiator clogged;
severe wear or breakdown of the fan motor;
malfunction of the rheostat block of the control mechanism;
damper deformation.

These malfunctions affect the performance of the stove. On the VAZ-2110 they occur less frequently than control system breakdowns, but they should also be taken into account. To identify the reason for the cessation of normal operation of the VAZ-2110 stove, determine why this could have happened. If the fan does not work, then to fix the problem, check it, the rheostat unit and the power circuit.

The stove blows cold air - the reason lies in the stove radiator (clogged, a plug has formed in it) or in the dampers (jammed in a position where the air flow bypasses the radiator).

The stove heats poorly and it is not possible to adjust the temperature - check the functionality of the controller, micro-reducer and temperature sensor.

To identify the cause and eliminate the decrease in stove productivity, move “from simple to complex.” First, check the functionality of the system elements located in the cabin (controller, temperature sensor), and then climb under the hood to diagnose the operation of the gearbox, dampers, and fan motor.

Secrets of using a heater

In order for the VAZ 2110 stove to work as long as possible, you need to follow a few simple secrets:

Look at how the carpets are positioned under your feet to see if they are blocking the outlet of hot air. If the nozzles are blocked for any reason, they must be raised.
If you have an air conditioner in your car, it is advisable to turn it on when it is very damp outside.
It is advisable to use both heating positions - on the glass and on the feet. The first position is suitable for quickly drying the windshield, and the second for heating the feet.
Before turning on the heater, remove all excess from the glass.

Checking the wiring in the engine compartment

For further diagnostics, you will need to remove all the plastic trims in the rear of the engine compartment under the windshield. This must be done carefully, and the bolts and screws holding the various elements must be placed in different containers so as not to get tangled during reinstallation.

In the opened space you can see the air intake of the stove, which should be covered with a filter. If there is no filter, a dense fabric such as felt can easily replace it. When the air intake is open, leaves, dust or dirt enter it, the result is a cold VAZ 2110 stove. Another problem with a clogged air duct is the burnout of an additional resistor, which is cooled by cold air. The filter needs to be cleaned periodically.

To the right of the electric motor there is a connector through which it is connected to the control unit. The red wire is connected to it, and the blue wire goes out. To check, you need to connect the control unit to the block, set the pointer to number 3 (rightmost position) to remove the regulating resistance from the circuit and turn on the ignition.

The control contact is inserted into the blue wire connector; if it lights up, it means that the contact between the control unit and the electric motor is normal. Otherwise, you need to inspect the wiring and find the break point. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to disconnect the connector itself, treat it with WD-40 lubricant and connect it again.

A ground wire should come from the electric motor housing and be connected to the car body. More often than not, it is the contact that breaks off or the contact at the attachment point oxidizes, which leads to a break in the chain. This wire needs to be stripped, made into a loop and reattached to the body, ensuring tight contact.

After troubleshooting the stove, we check its operation. This is very simple to do - from the passenger compartment with the ignition on, you need to turn on the heater control unit, check how it blows air in all modes, including automatic and all 3 speeds.

Only after this can you begin assembly. A standard or homemade filter is installed on the air intake of the stove. The plastic elements in the engine compartment are carefully assembled into place. The control unit is mounted, the fuse block is put in place and closed with a lid.

Thus, everyone can be convinced that if the speed does not work in the VAZ 2110 stove and other models of this family, this is not a death sentence. If you have minimal skills, simple tools and devices, some of which you can make yourself, for example, a control, many problems can be solved yourself.

There may be many reasons why the heater began to work worse or does not work at all, and not everything can be eliminated on your own. For example, if a stove radiator fails, it is better to turn to professionals, since the work requires serious skills and equipment. And the owner can easily deal with minor problems such as a non-working electric motor on his own in his garage.

Drawing conclusions

In the article, I tried to describe in detail almost every case of a possible breakdown of the stove in a VAZ 2110 car and added a couple of tips and personal stories of my own. But I also want to tell you one more case in my practice. So I bought a car, by the way, it was a VAZ and winter came, the stove didn’t work.

I started looking for reasons, tried everything, nothing helped. I even changed the radiator and paid a large amount for it, but the stove never worked in the end. Three months later, by pure chance, I took out a tube coming out of the stove and three huge holes were made in it on the right.

Through them, all the warm air went out into the street without warming up the interior. As it turned out in the end, there was a defect at the factory and therefore the car was sold to the first owner at a discount. He was not upset and simply covered the holes with cloth. Over the years, the fabric tore and the stove stopped working.

Therefore, try to check all possible options for a stove failure in any car.